MTFCA Forum

As Speedsters have been a busy topic again, please post pictures of your speedster/s, also thoughts on lowering or not.
My thought on lowering is the older the style the less the lowering, maybe reverse eye springs.


In addition,
To expand on title of this thread as it will not fit in the title area, plus I just thought of it. Also post pictures of build progress and period correct accessories being used.

Dean,
I think you are correct on lowering the newer more than older but it seems to be more of a personal prefrence. I personaly like low and racey as you can see. One of the neat things about speedsters is the freedom you have is building them. There is almost no limit to the imagination (with in reason)
Craig.

Still in progress, took block to the machine shop yesterday.

Andy

Still very rough, but mine was lowered with a bracket fabricated in front of the radiator for a spring perch. Wishbone lengthened to accommodate. Have not had time to see how the rear was lowered, but I can see some odd turnbuckle mechanism though the trunk.

A caution about lowering your T speedster TOO much. Years ago I was loading my car after a tour and succeeded in ripping the oil drain plug out of the pan. Made kind of a mess dumpling all the oil on the trailer!!

Here is a pic of my speedster, and my homemade “Laurel” type front lowering brackets. The rear has a 4” drop Z bracket holding the rear crossmember. Front and rear springs have very low arch.
Les makes a good point... I’ve bumped the drain plug a few times, never ripped it out... but it has loosened!

Nice cars posted so far, for the most part they look to be period mods. Kevin, looks like you have some steering rod chatter.
Picture below is my start point today.

Try to fit an hour or two in every night. I’m confident it’ll hit the road this coming year. Will not be finished but hopefully driveable. Gas tank was a big hurdle, now on to threading brake rods through the lower valance.

Here is the one my father-in-law built and my wife now owns.
Father-in-law and brother-in-law has made this speedster well known all over the us.

Tim, I hate brake rod rattle. I made these and I’m using juice brakes.


Andy

One of my regular customers has his speedster in a constant change on the body. I prepared the motor and running gear some years ago but he is always changing the body. Initially it was very basic with just two seats and a gas tank. Then he added some front protection and even later into a speedster pickup. The latest addition are the rear wheels and sealed hubs. No idea where his imagination will take him next year.
As has been pointed out previously, the only limit with a speedster is the owners imagination. What fun

TonyB wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 28, 2021 1:54 pm

One of my regular customers has his speedster in a constant change on the body. I prepared the motor and running gear some years ago but he is always changing the body. Initially it was very basic with just two seats and a gas tank. Then he added some front protection and even later into a speedster pickup.
A1A2C94D-A9A0-43DF-B710-B8D78300638D.jpeg

The latest addition are the rear wheels and sealed hubs. No idea where his imagination will take him next year.
As has been pointed out previously, the only limit with a speedster is the owners imagination. What fun

I don't want to catch flak but that one I feel moved out of speedster into the unknown category, whatever the owners imagination is.
Fun car, parade car, clown car, who knows but as long as the owner is happy with it, is all that counts. Not a speedster to me but it has some good bones.

While I agree that that car is not my “cup of tea”... there were some pretty outlandish creations made back in the day as well. Speedster or not, it’s his creation...

Caswell wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 28, 2021 1:18 pm

Kevin, looks like you have some steering rod chatter.

Not steering rod chatter... just plain ol not enough clearance. The tie rod is Model AA truck, and so tapers from 1-1/4” in the center to 5/8” out at the ends. Turning the wheels not only causes the steering arms to lift due to the caster in the axle, but the tie rod increases in diameter as it passes under the hair pins... damn homemade cars...!

Kevin Pharis wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 28, 2021 2:38 pm

While I agree that that car is not my “cup of tea”... there were some pretty outlandish creations made back in the day as well. Speedster or not, it’s his creation...

91BC65D8-DDC0-43C7-9ED0-FB859700480C.jpeg

Ugly but so cool, today they call it a Can-Am Spyder. The bike part of it is worth a good bit today.

AndyClary wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 28, 2021 10:35 am

Still in progress, took block to the machine shop yesterday.

Andy

Nice car Andy

Craig Leach wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 28, 2021 10:27 am

Dean,
I think you are correct on lowering the newer more than older but it seems to be more of a personal prefrence. I personaly like low and racey as you can see. One of the neat things about speedsters is the freedom you have is building them. There is almost no limit to the imagination (with in reason)
Craig.IM000449.JPGIM000448.JPGIM000443.JPG

Another nice car, now them there spring ends look real low, low and racey it is. Is the rear of the frame Z'd and how is the clearance with regard to
radius rods ? I have some Z brackets in case I want to lower (big if) but I believe they are 5" drop and was looking at 3" drop front axle from Sid's, again if I go low.

I have been told not to change this speedster. That it looks better without running boards or fenders. It makes great rooster tails when driven on a wet road or in the rain. Pretty much all I did is add a few decals. Even though this is a polo car I think it qualifies as a speedster. At least it is as much fun as a speedster.

Les is right about lowering too much. I can scrape my drain plug on a speed bump of I am not careful.

Tim.

This is a copy but the car it is based on is one of the first speedsters, at least Model T type. Also added pictures of original.
If I do look at lowering (if) am I correct with regard to amount of drop front to rear, 4" or 5" Z frame drop at rear goes with 3" dropped front axle .

Here is mine. Laurel brackets up front with ‘26-‘27 spindles. “Z” brackets out back. Stock front and rear leaf springs. Rides great, plenty of ground clearance.

Hi Dean,
The rear is only Z'ed 1 1/2" the rear spring was made by a local spring shop with reversed eyes & I flattened out the ends. The front end is simular to Laural brackets with T spring perches turned upside down with two beveled spacers between the bracket & raius rods so you can adjust the caster. If you look close the front axle is even with the hand crank hole. Maybe I should have mowed the grass before I took the pictures the car realy isn't quite that low. The radius rods have no clearance issue but I had to turn the rear spring bolts upside down to prevent the rear end from hitting the threaded end of the bolts. I don't think the next one will be quite this low, I'm collecting parts for it the one part I can't seem to find is time. The car with the chrome stacks is way faster that mine is.
Craig.

Below is a spy photo of a Speedster race scene done for the movie "Killers of the Flower Moon" shot in Pawhuska, Oklahoma this past summer. I had the privilege of participating as a background extra and Model T driver. They used LOTS of Model T's in the making of this movie and I drove several of them as well as having my '27 Speedster used in this race scene with 4 other Speedsters - (my car is the second red Speedster). The movie is expected to be out sometime mid to late 2022. I also got to drive a 1925 Hupmobile 3 door sedan and a 1922 Moon. There were about 95 old cars and trucks from the late teens & '20's used in the film, so you won't want to miss the movie when it comes out.

Craig Leach wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 28, 2021 11:26 pm

Hi Dean,
The rear is only Z'ed 1 1/2" the rear spring was made by a local spring shop with reversed eyes & I flattened out the ends. The front end is simular to Laural brackets with T spring perches turned upside down with two beveled spacers between the bracket & raius rods so you can adjust the caster. If you look close the front axle is even with the hand crank hole. Maybe I should have mowed the grass before I took the pictures the car realy isn't quite that low. The radius rods have no clearance issue but I had to turn the rear spring bolts upside down to prevent the rear end from hitting the threaded end of the bolts. I don't think the next one will be quite this low, I'm collecting parts for it the one part I can't seem to find is time. The car with the chrome stacks is way faster that mine is.
Craig.

Hi Craig,
Based on your explanation of rear mods I guess the rear drop is 4" to 4 1/2", front I just measured my car from axle top edge to top edge of frame crossmember at center and come up with your drop being 5 3/4" to 6" .Now without a body on my car is 6" from axle to crossmember.

Here is my latest acquisition, compliments of Bob Giles, neat little car.

Dad’s speedster he built in my teen years, now mine.

Andy

mgarrett wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 29, 2021 10:08 am

Below is a spy photo of a Speedster race scene done for the movie "Killers of the Flower Moon"… so you won't want to miss the movie when it comes out.

Please keep us posted when this movie is released!

Ed Fuller wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 28, 2021 7:33 pm

Here is mine. Laurel brackets up front with ‘26-‘27 spindles. “Z” brackets out back. Stock front and rear leaf springs. Rides great, plenty of ground clearance.

D1254AEF-1882-47FF-8AB5-976D30683A13.jpeg

5EFDAA66-ED93-48F6-B1A3-B9D8346ECF44.jpeg

Hi Ed,
The more I look at the car the more it grows on me, nice set up.

Here are several posted previously:
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50 ... 1421544075

Lowering adds extra cost of build, exhaust will need mods, steering column will need firewall bracket and lower bracket wedge, $500 front axle, rear frame Z brackets (or cut and weld). Big pain today is getting the good firewall bracket + wedge that Lang's used to carry, anyone have a spare set ?
May have to make a wood wedge donut if I lower.

Dean, if you don’t have one pick up a copy of the Fast Ford Handbook. It has many examples of shop built lowering methods.

The steering column lowering set that was sold wasn’t really that great. You can do as well or better with a little work.

Andy

Tie rod & drag link interference with the wishbone or lowering bracket needs to be considered when lowering the front axle. Several methods to avoid this but to depending on the method used to lower the front axle. I had a Z bracket made for the front locally for $38 by a structural steel fabricator. 4 inch drop and have '26 spindles for a bit more - no wishbone going with side radius bars. The current spindle arms are late model and are turned upward. Not sure if I can get more drop if reverse them to turn downward or swap out the spindle arms for earlier straight ones. Lowered the steering wheel with the firewall wedge and added my own additional wedge. In doing this the driver position is pushed back some and the angle of the steering shaft no requires a u-joint (just got a Vega box from Hank so still adjusting the plan). The axle is also about 2 inches forward. --
--
Other methods A reverse eye gives about 1 inch drop

If I do decide to lower I will stick to what I have done before for less problems, Z bracket at rear and 3" drop axle from Sid's.
TRDxB2 thanks for posting the information you did, this thread is also intended to be informative for potential speedster builders.

Rear drop examples

Hi Dean,
This has realy taken off has'nt it? Best as I can figure it's lowered 5 1/2" -6" in the rear & 6 1/2"-7" in the front. Sorry not very clean but well lubed
Craig.

"Sorry not very clean but well lubed"
Craig.

That's as it should be, clean is for trailer queens.
Dean

Mark Osterman wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 30, 2021 10:20 am

177FF73F-45CF-4C28-8F0E-225A56D5A369.jpeg

Thanks Mark,
Is/was the filler panel between what looks to be two firewalls (looks well done) a by product of setting back seating for leg room ?

I just went out and measured my speedster. I have 7” of clearance from the ground to the oil drain plug.

I had to flip the spindle arms for clearance also.

This is a work in progress, but here are the rear drop brackets I made for my 26. They move the axle behind the rear crossmember. They bolt to the radius rod holes and the hole for the original spring mount and serve a dual purpose, lowering the rear end and acting as the mount for outside brakes. There is a hole for the parking brake boss.
The hole for the outside brake pin is located so I can use current production Rocky Mountain Brake parts.

I have never seen this exact style before, but I have seen period plans for similar plates that moved the mount to the rear of the axle and there are multiple period designs that move the mount to the front of the axle in a similar location. I made them out of 5/8 1018 plate and welded the spring mount on. They are pretty beefy but it was not a part I wanted to flex or fail.

I did not want to “z” the frame and as I am using an auxiliary transmission, the extra wheelbase was not an issue (I had to cut down the torque tube and driveshaft anyway).

A picture of one I built in the ‘80’s. The front axle is moved ahead and lowered and the rear axle is also moved ahead (the spring behind the axle). It works great

A parallel discussion on Speedster Plans ids going on see https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25927
I added several plans like below and links to more

I'm surprised that the body styles were this way as early as 1916

My speedster is lowered with about four inches. Any more and I'd be worried about whacking the pan. It does handle really well.

Here’s my lowered roadster. The engine is off topic and I’m still working on connecting it to model t torque tube. I did make the model t hand crank completely functional with the updated engine though!

This thread shows just how personalized speedsters can be. There’s something for everyone and they can constantly evolve as you find neat parts.

Andy

Then when speedster events happen it is fun to see them in person and see all the different configurations people do with them and get ideas or just admire.

Tim

A little flashback. Had to make new skirts for my Mercury, instant 7 inch lowering.

Andy

AndyClary wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 02, 2022 5:28 pm

C322FDFB-1CA8-4F90-B0DE-E007A114EBBC.jpegA little flashback. Had to make new skirts for my Mercury, instant 7 inch lowering.

AndyE89C93A1-3071-42B5-AF58-A29B3B831520.jpeg4EA0199A-82FE-4198-BDB4-E7B7FCFAA02C.jpeg

Those are some heavy duty looking skirts, makes me wonder what it would look like on older style

The skirts are only 20 gauge, lighter than the body. The insides are coated with bed liner so it won’t pick up any dimples.

Andy

This Mercury belonged to a friend. Looks a little off without skirts. Was a nice car, don’t know where it went after sale.

Andy

AndyClary wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 03, 2022 1:25 pm

This Mercury belonged to a friend. Looks a little off without skirts. Was a nice car, don’t know where it went after sale.

AndyDF2569FF-E97A-4FA1-9D3B-F3FEE1186641.jpeg

Yep, skirt gives a more finished look.

Andy, that Mercury now belongs to member Ric Cook in San Leandro, CA. I tried to talk him into putting the skirts back on, to no avail. He likes it the way it is. I agree with you it looks stark without them.

Ed aka #4

Some pictures of my lowered front axle and front brakes (motorcycle discs)

Thought I'd add some ideas for period correct looking radius rods and wishbone supports --
--

I really like the Common Sense radius rod set up. I’ve missed out on a couple sets but I keep my eyes open.

Andy

My dream Speedster

I found a nice set of those, Andy, and it was just so much weight I decided not to use them. It’s always hard to make that call when you finally find something.

Find some one with a water jet or plasma table and cut them from 1" plate. You can relocate the mounting holes on the side to match the bumper bracket holes on a 26/27 (I think), but not meant to use the heavier 26/27 rear crossmember. It will give you a 5" drop and no need to shorten the driveshaft. No guarantees express or implied, do your home work first. Enjoy, stay safe.

Dropacent wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 05, 2022 12:41 am

I found a nice set of those, Andy, and it was just so much weight I decided not to use them. It’s always hard to make that call when you finally find something.

Like Andy, I like the look of Common Sense rods, to offset weight gain the original radius rods are gone, get rid of starter and use an aluminum hogs head, to me the starter and hogs head should be standard for speedster .

O.K. I'm looking at a lot of speedsters and in many cases I'm not seeing the battery hanging down in it's normal position, for me I will have to move it back to be just in front of the rear frame crossmember as the gas tank will be above the stock battery position, or put it in the tool box/trunk to be built at the rear. At this time I'm not going to Z cut the frame, I have a new set of brackets as pictured two posts above, I think I'll list them in the classified section to avoid temptation. Question is, battery location how and where.

Caswell wrote: ↑

Thu Jan 06, 2022 10:25 am

O.K. I'm looking at a lot of speedsters and in many cases I'm not seeing the battery hanging down in it's normal position, for me I will have to move it back to be just in front of the rear frame crossmember as the gas tank will be above the stock battery position, or put it in the tool box/trunk to be built at the rear. At this time I'm not going to Z cut the frame, I have a new set of brackets as pictured two posts above, I think I'll list them in the classified section to avoid temptation. Question is, battery location how and where.

Battery selection/size depends on how one intends to use a Model T (racing, causal use, driving at night etc) , magneto or not and charging method
Realistically you don't need a Group 1 or Optima Red Top for a daily drive. The biggest draw on the battery is in starting. So some owners may have chosen a small motorcycle / lawn care battery to hide somewhere.
Others can confirm the math.
So if it would take 100 amps for 3-4 seconds to start a Model T (100amp * 4 sec) / 3600 sec/hr) = .12 AH draw per start. Then a fully charged 20Ah battery could provide upwards of 100 starts before recharging (20AH/.12 AhH draw = 166 times) without recharging. The ignition system would draw on the battery when starting but then it is expected to use either magneto or generator voltage.

My battery is under the seat in a modern battery box. That raised it up enough that it does not interfere with the driveshaft or support rods. Much more accessibility than putting it in the toolbox or in the normal location. With an Optima you can lay it on its side.

I moved the stock battery carrier forward. The battery is now under the seat.

A smaller, motorcycle/riding mower type battery might have enough energy storage capacity to start a Model T several times, but I have to wonder if the current demand of the T starter would exceed what the small battery is designed to deliver. Lead/acid type batteries have a low internal resistance, and are capable of delivering a lot more current than they are designed to withstand.

I cut a hole in the floor under my seat and hang a regular 12 volt car battery there ahead of the stock location. The fuel tank is moved behind my seat. The battery is easy to access if it needs service and the cutoff switch is on the front edge of the seat base so I can easily reach it.

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑

Thu Jan 06, 2022 12:54 pm

A smaller, motorcycle/riding mower type battery might have enough energy storage capacity to start a Model T several times, but I have to wonder if the current demand of the T starter would exceed what the small battery is designed to deliver. Lead/acid type batteries have a low internal resistance, and are capable of delivering a lot more current than they are designed to withstand.

Couldn't find a CA or CCA spec for the Duracell.

All good info, I did away with the starter, will run lights (daytime and just incase at dusk), run engine on battery , it can run on mag and generator is still good.

Caswell wrote: ↑

Thu Jan 06, 2022 2:48 pm

All good info, I did away with the starter, will run lights (daytime and just incase at dusk), run engine on battery , it can run on mag and generator is still good.

Lots of cautions in discussions about having the generator charging something or you'll kill it - lights may be enough but if you forget

This is how I made a battery box. Two upright boards support the seat. The box extends below them a bit between the frame and the Warford. A standard size tractor battery fits into it. I was give the optima and it's been working for about 19 years now. I wasn't a fan but hey....

That's horse hair around the minus terminal.

As far as batteries, I have run my 14 runabout with a dry cell. It’s easier to start on battery. I’m currently running a straight through nh and they can be finicky on a stem winder. I currently use a small motorcycle battery and they last 3-4 years if you keep them charged. That said I run an optima in the speedster since I have an overhead with a generous amount of compression.


Andy

My speedster doesn’t have a starter or generator. I just have a small motorcycle size battery under the seat. I use it for powering the coils when I hand crank and to run my lights. I just top charge it a couple of times a year.

Original specification for Ignition System load.
Horn load depends on your horn and how you use it http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80 ... 1253628422

Funny how this drifted into a thread about batteries.
I got a call one day from a fellow T'er that was getting ready for a tour when he discovered his 12 volt battery had given up. The car had been converted to 12 volt and was using the T generator. He needed a battery right away and needed one with eyelets instead of posts. The only thing I had with eyelets was a 230 CCA riding mower battery. We made a wood frame to keep it from falling out and off he went. when he came back he wanted to buy the battery said it worked better that he thought it would. Said the starter sounded better ( not so hard of engagement ) and the generator didn't seem to work as hard to charge the battery. He sold the car a year later with that battery in it.
Craig.

My own fault for the thread drift kind of, was interested in battery location and method of storage when building a speedster, as I noted above many can not be seen in plain view considering the absence of stock sheet metal.
The other information being posted is still of interest, a little drift but a consideration when modifying equipment.

On subject, has to be more pre boat tail rolling relic owners out there.

Craig Leach wrote: ↑

Fri Jan 07, 2022 9:22 am

Funny how this drifted into a thread about batteries.
-----

Yes, there has been drift from the original question about "lowering". AND I'm about to cause more with the intention of bringing focus to several specific areas. https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=26238

Yesterdays progress , going to get more wood in a bit. Finish dry fit, take it apart, glue and fasteners and reassemble, edge trim and the list goes on.
Replacement top half of hand brake also pictured.

By far the easiest way to lower any speedster is to do what Craig did in the second post. Just park it on a lush lawn.
The cattle breeders use the same trick, in reverse. To get the topline on their prize bulls level, they park the beast with its front legs on a disguised platform before taking his photograph.

Allan from down under.

TRDxB2 wrote: ↑

Fri Jan 07, 2022 11:41 am

Craig Leach wrote: ↑

Fri Jan 07, 2022 9:22 am

Funny how this drifted into a thread about batteries.
-----

Yes, there has been drift from the original question about "lowering". AND I'm about to cause more with the intention of bringing focus to several specific areas. https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=26238

After the second reply the drift started. Method of lowering was not the question, thoughts on lowering was as it related to early or later type.
Plus I asked for people to post pictures of their speedster/s.

Gratuitous shot of my headlights to keep the thread going.

Andy

AndyClary wrote: ↑

Fri Jan 07, 2022 10:56 pm

Gratuitous shot of my headlights to keep the thread going.

Andy6AC580D8-549F-4047-AE05-9D088E9086C0.jpeg

Very nice condition drum lights and a period correct accessory.
To expand on my first post, anyone please post speedster pictures, build progress pictures, period correct accessories being used.

Thread title changed so people don't click on it if they are not interested in the subject or to be less vague , I have no idea where I was going with this post, I lost track 6 words in, anyway I normally hover the cursor over the subject and it shows first and last post on the thread, if I don't think it's of interest to me I don't click on it. Please keep posting SPEEDSTER info as noted on first post.

Since the original title talks about lowering, this is one of my favorites.

Wow! that's pretty. Here is a version I saw a couple years ago:

A dropped axle is easy though pricey. My car has the 4 inch drop Mercury axle and reversed front spring eyes. It was enough before but I could always use 26/27 spindles for another inch up front. The frame is simply kicked up in the rear and I have a reverse eye rear leaf if I want to drop it a little more. I’m not in favor of the heated/bent rear springs.

In this photo you can see the amount of drop in the front axle. The Mercury uses a stock tie rod, a dropped Ford axle usually requires shortening the tie rod.
Andy

Dean, gluing and screwing sounds good, but may not be. The Ford frame will twist, quite substantially on uneven ground. The body needs to allow for this. If it is too rigid it will try to tear itself apart. The better built commercial bodies built back in the days were mortise and tenon jointed and then screwed. This allowed for flex.

Allan from down under.

Allan wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 09, 2022 1:27 am

Dean, gluing and screwing sounds good, but may not be. The Ford frame will twist, quite substantially on uneven ground. The body needs to allow for this. If it is too rigid it will try to tear itself apart. The better built commercial bodies built back in the days were mortise and tenon jointed and then screwed. This allowed for flex.

Allan from down under.

Allan,
It's a good job that I'm not going to be driving on the roads they had back then (or the lack of),lowering for open road would not be done back then ether, the moment you got to the edge of town the oil plug would be a foot under mud.
With tall cabs and long vertical runs the commercial bodies would be more susceptible to flex, Ford or not that's also the way carpenters did things, if the flex is excessive mortise and tenon will break .
I'm gluing the long side rails together as they are made of two lengths of 3/4" ply, any trim is mounted on one piece overlapping another so a seam is covered but trim can shift over it, I'll start another thread about building, "Speedster- building"

Allen,
You caught me.In my defence on hard level ground the drain plug has only 5" clearance.
Ed,
That is one of my favorites too. And will be on my next speedster. IIEGTI
Richard,
The hot rod I'm building has quarter eliptic springs. Do you have any idea what those are off of? Very neat.
Craig.

Build progress pictures, this afternoon rear deck, floor (not finished), all body brackets done, seat riser and hinged top, seats will be a week or two.

Looks good Dean. What color are you thinking?

Andy

I have no idea Craig, his car showed up at a 4th of July show and I haven't seen it before or since. The fellow came form California and and I'm not sure where he is to ask more questions. It was a rather cool setup.
Rich

AndyClary wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 09, 2022 7:13 pm

Looks good Dean. What color are you thinking?

Andy

Thanks Andy, at this point I'm thinking light grey. Repaint the wheels black .

I like your thoughts of using grey. Please keep us informed as your build progresses.

Started fitting the aluminum edge strip, flat bar stock on top edges to protect wood, center floor panel is U channel that adds a little support and protects edges, U channel permits hidden screws. Worked on firewall (dash) and put steering column in to see how much of a wedge I need to make for the 1 1/2" steering wheel drop. Have to chase down some slot cap screws for the trim (fitting with Philips) . Not looking forward to taking this apart to paint.

Dean very nice work.

Craig Leach wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 11, 2022 12:17 am

Dean very nice work.

Thanks Craig,
There has to be more build progress pictures and descriptions from when some of you built your cars, a bunch of info is out there for lowering (no more needed), for education purposes we need insight into wood build, wood bulkheads with sheet metal, skin work with steel and aluminum, attaching sheet metal, attaching body to frame. Maybe I need to start a new thread " Speedster- Building"

My youngest son and I have a lot of miles of father/son time in our speedster. We put over 10,000 miles on it the first year we had it with 30 miles here and 50 miles there about three to five times a week. If I would have known we would have had such a great time and learned so much during those trips, I would have bought a car 15 years ago.

Very nice, a small thing I like is the use of the hood latches (can't see if springs are on) to hold lower end of hood straps and if springs are still on even better.

Made a trunk /tool box this afternoon, drivers side is a battery compartment (will coat with epoxy) fits full size or Optima, checking tank location and may make some risers for it (only to clear sediment bowl/shut off), aluminum top trim on drivers side done also. Have to make lid for the box, will make water resistant with a lip all around.

Good work. I just wanted the 100th post.

Andy