MTFCA Forum

I'm discovering what everyone else already knows.....Wheel bearings are impossible to find. Is there another style of bearings that will work? Is it a bad idea to just put the one that fell apart back together?

Putting it back together would depend on the condition of all the pieces. If the rollers are pitted or flaking and cups are worn, then no. As a temporary fix, maybe, long term, not so much. Try putting an ad in the classifieds. Make sure to say which side you need; the threads are left and right handed depending on the side.

CatGuy wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 13, 2022 12:03 pm

I'm discovering what everyone else already knows.....Wheel bearings are impossible to find. Is there another style of bearings that will work? Is it a bad idea to just put the one that fell apart back together?

Advertise for good used bearings wanted. They do exist. Have seen them for sale time to time here.
I wouldnt/have not considered putting a bearing back together that falls apart. The cage/rollers are clearly too worn. Theoretically the cage could be repaired, but.....

Mark Gregush wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 13, 2022 12:10 pm

Putting it back together would depend on the condition of all the pieces. If the rollers are pitted or flaking and cups are worn, then no. As a temporary fix, maybe, long term, not so much. Try putting an ad in the classifieds. Make sure to say which side you need; the threads are left and right handed depending on the side.

It was really weird....and maybe they actually just come apart like this, but the two pieces came apart and the rollers dropped out. Nothing looked bad, not pitting, no apparent damage, plenty of grease.

CatGuy wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 13, 2022 12:18 pm

Mark Gregush wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 13, 2022 12:10 pm

Putting it back together would depend on the condition of all the pieces. If the rollers are pitted or flaking and cups are worn, then no. As a temporary fix, maybe, long term, not so much. Try putting an ad in the classifieds. Make sure to say which side you need; the threads are left and right handed depending on the side.

It was really weird....and maybe they actually just come apart like this, but the two pieces came apart and the rollers dropped out. Nothing looked bad, not pitting, no apparent damage, plenty of grease.

So, if there's nothing more wrong with them than just having fallen apart, why did you have to remove them? Wasn't there a problem that you were trying to correct? How does stuffing it all back together fix your initial problem. You need a new, or better used, bearing. Don't take chances.

They are not supposed to come apart. At the least, the cage/retainer is quite worn.
As Jerry noted, what about the initial problem?

The problem I was trying to correct was that I could pull the wheel or hub straight out and push it back about 1/8" or slightly less. It would be as if you were adjusting the bearings and they still were loose......only problem is that the axle nut was so tight I nearly had to stand on the wrench to get it off! I can't figure out how it could be that tight, but still have 'play'. So, no I probably won't be putting the old one back in. Just frustrated as I just bought the car and only drove it once...briefly. Just need to be patient.....

CatGuy wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 13, 2022 12:47 pm

The problem I was trying to correct was that I could pull the wheel or hub straight out and push it back about 1/8" or slightly less. It would be as if you were adjusting the bearings and they still were loose......only problem is that the axle nut was so tight I nearly had to stand on the wrench to get it off! I can't figure out how it could be that tight, but still have 'play'. So, no I probably won't be putting the old one back in. Just frustrated as I just bought the car and only drove it once...briefly. Just need to be patient.....

If the threaded bearing is not tight enough before setting the outer lock nut, this could be the problem. Setting the bearings on the front wheels is a bit tricky.
Snug the outer bearing then back off about 1/4 turn(loosen) Put the tabbed washer & nut on. Snug it to align the cotter pin hole. Roll the wheel checking for tight or looseness. The wheel should turn freely with minimal side slop. If a bit snug, remove the nut & back off the bearing a little. Re install the nut. Repeat until perfect.

Sounds like what I'm used to with other old cars....mostly. I did check my order and see that I'll be getting the right side outer bearing and that is the one that came out broken. That's a relief! I haven't taken the left side apart yet and I think it's best that I leave that one alone till they are making the left side outer bearing again. I can't detect any slop in that side. As they say.....'Don't kick that beehive'.....

What John said is absolutely correct. Check the other side and make sure that one is ok too. If not, check with the vendors, most have good used parts available but not always advertised. jb

CatGuy wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 13, 2022 1:14 pm

Sounds like what I'm used to with other old cars....mostly. I did check my order and see that I'll be getting the right side outer bearing and that is the one that came out broken. That's a relief! I haven't taken the left side apart yet and I think it's best that I leave that one alone till they are making the left side outer bearing again. I can't detect any slop in that side. As they say.....'Don't kick that beehive'.....

I am real particular about the mechanical condition of my T's for safety & reliability. Good enough rarely is.

"They" also say..... "dont bury your head in the sand"
Either way, I would want to know regarding the other side.

Has anyone tried the threaded inserts that Model T Ranch sells so you can use model A ( think that's the bearing needed) outer wheel bearings? I would think the spindle threads would need to be in very good shape to use them.
Craig.

Hopefully someone won’t buy these before you do but on eBay Bobs has a set for sale. Item number 194924513637.
I have no dog in this fight other than you’re safety as a model T’er. I’ve bought used stuff from Bob and found them to be good and as described. You could contact him to ask about the condition.

Not to open a big, big can of worms but, I have used Model A wheel bearings in all three of my Model T's for the last 30 years. Wouldn't know how many hundreds of miles they have been driven, and have had no trouble yet. Oh, and my spindle look fine.

I found a local bearing supply shop that is a Timken dealer. They were able to get me both front wheel inner bearings and the driver's side outer bearing in about a week. Timken told the dealer that the passenger side outer (left-hand threads) will be available this August. All four bearing cups/races were also available.

JTT3 wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 13, 2022 1:53 pm

Hopefully someone won’t buy these before you do but on eBay Bobs has a set for sale. Item number 194924513637.
I have no dog in this fight other than you’re safety as a model T’er. I’ve bought used stuff from Bob and found them to be good and as described. You could contact him to ask about the condition.

I bought those. Thanks!

lnoller wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 13, 2022 1:56 pm

Not to open a big, big can of worms but, I have used Model A wheel bearings in all three of my Model T's for the last 30 years. Wouldn't know how many hundreds of miles they have been driven, and have had no trouble yet. Oh, and my spindle look fine.

There's all kinds of ways to save a buck.

If you had said, "I'm sick of paving $90 for a $10 bearing, so I took a set of common spindles & welded up the threads where an A bearing rides & precision ground them for proper bearing fit, upgrading to a modern outer wheel bearing system." I would have said kudos. I have thought of doing that also. But my ignorance in the possible weakness I could be adding would cause me to do some research on the subject. I have concluded it's probably not worth the effort @ this time in history. That & the fact that new bearings can be had with some effort.
It's a once in a life time cost & good used bearings are everywhere cheap or free.( Ask a few local T friends or go to a swap meet.)

So, I will stay safe & "Original" for my personal T's & the other T's I have the pleasure to service with no worries.

I just rebuilt my front end on my 27 and decided to reuse the outers as they were still good (inners were broke in pieces). I think the inner bearings take most of the force and abuse. I might revisit some day down the road if I am able to get a set, easy enough to change.

A model bearings are a slide on fit. But, they go on over the thread on the spindle, they ride on the tips of the thread, and both the thread and the hardened centre of the bearing wear considerably. Using them is a spong-up Keeping them adjusted is nigh on impossible.

Allan from down under.

How hard is it to get the races out? Does it require a press? Just some careful hammering?

How hard is it to get the races out? Does it require a press? Just some careful hammering?

It depends on what hubs you're dealing with. If they're 1919-1927 they have notches that let you drive the cups out from the other side with a drift and a hammer. With 1918 and earlier hubs, weld a bead around the inside of the cup. It will shrink and fall out.

When I was working on new wheels for my 1915 I used 1917-1918 hubs, which are more substantial but were made to accept a speedometer gear. Knowing I would be using Timken bearings, I added notches.

Not hard at all. Just a punch from the opposite side of the race. Hit it equally on both sides and it should come out pretty easy. The other thing to watch for is loose races, especially the inners. Mine spun and so we had to punch the inside and use loctite.

Mine is a '26 so I should be fine.