MTFCA Forum

just a note for all so they don't repeat an episode like mine. I recently bought a new battery for my touring. Like everything else it cost more and was a little smaller than the battery it replaced. It definitly does not fill the battery cage, but neither did the previous battery. It appeared to be secured as it should be with the stock T hold downs. However it was not as secure as I thought. It did slip in a turn, and the battery hold down contacted the positive post. No damage really done besides blowing the diodes in the alternator. With the battery cables disconnected, i tightened the hold downs down again, and found with a little more effort the battery would shift. Is the battery actually shorter than the previous and that is the problem, or is it because it's held in place with 100 year old parts that may no longer be as straight as they were +when new. I have not determined my exact solution, whether I slip a shim under the battery, and a shim along side so it has no where to go yet, but I will definitly place a section of bicycle intertube over the hold down.

The Group 1 6 volt batteries sell here in my area in Texas in the 75.00 + price range. They are at farm and ranch stores and can be had at Auto Zone and etc. A groups one fits OK. There also need to be a board under the battery to raise it up to be level with the top of the T battery carrier. That helps to secure it with the 2 hold down clamps.

If you have an alternator, I would assume you have a 12 volt battery. The stock battery is 6 volt. I use a 6 volt group 1 from Auto Zone. I also cut a piece of wood to raise the battery about 3/4 inch. I put the clamps on in such a way they press right on the edge of the battery so it doesn't bend down the top of the battery. In add addition. you could also build a box to go under the battery just large enough to keep the battery from sliding around in the holder. I have no idea what the dimensions of your battery, but I'm sure you can make something to hold it from sliding side way in either direction. Then use the same size battery each time you replace it so you can use your same supports.
Norm

Most people will not agree with me. I use a standard Ford battery box and lid, with a six volt battery. I'm using an Auto Zone battery. It cranks the engine over as good as a 12 volt, without damaging the bendix drive either. I had to put a thin piece of plywood inside the battery box to raise it to the proper level. As far as generators go, what's wrong with a rebuilt stock Ford generator? It works for me.

Placing a wooden shim under a new battery is pretty much standard practice, I believe.

All batteries have standard sizes.

There is one 12 volt battery that very close to those 6 Volt dimensions.

What most people don't realize is that 12 volt battery has six more cell walls and three more cell partitions.

Tha situation results in far fewer internal plates that make the electricity.

That situation also results in the battery appearing to be going bad a lot faster then it should when cranking the engine.

So, either the engine stats right away or you look for another problem and blame the battery.

That wood piece is sold by several vendors.

It is a piece the same size as the battery with a notch cut in each end for the metal strap that holds the battery.

Here is the "shim" for the underside. Also available from suppliers (maybe) . You should also shim it so it doesn't slide, just a boarder on the bottom board. The hold downs are just to hold the battery down. Thickness is what you need.

“Auto Zone” has a wide variety of 6V batteries in different sizes with the negative on the left side, close to the frame. Go there and meet with the manager or someone with experience with your L x W x H in hand and he will get the battery book and find, for you, the correct 6V battery for your battery box. Jim Patrick

To use of a 6 volt automobile battery with the highest rate of cranking amps and cold cranking amps along with proper battery cables of 2/0 cable size, and clean contacts at the battery, switch, and starter along with proper grounding will give you the best results. The Model T starter system really works on amperage availability and not voltage...... Group 1 size 6 volt batteries will have the proper position of the battery terminals for the Model T Ford .

For what its worth, the ford battery carrier and clamps are for an original Ford battery, modern batteries are a different configuration. An original battery had different dimensions and what look like handles on the top of the battery. The Ford hold down clamps would align with and clamp down on the battery handle. A modern battery does not have the supporting structure and handle for the Ford hold down clamps. So what are we to do? A battery box helps a lot. The battery box fits snuggly in the carrier, and plywood can be used to shim the gaps caused with a modern battery. I have seen some who have glued a strip of wood along the top front and rear edge of the battery to simulate the old Ford battery handle, and it will provide some limited additional strength to the top of the battery. Without the handles on the top of the battery there is no good way to use an original battery box lid without it contacting a terminal or cable. Original Smith made up and sold a few battery boxes a few years ago and I use them in my cars. A couple good older threads show original batteries and how they fit in a T battery carrier, box and lid.

A group1 6 volt battery is used on lots of old tractors, cars and older equipment. I think the negative and positive posts haven’t changed over the years. I’m not sure about that but the ones I’ve bought for my T’s and 54 Ford tractor have always been the same. You can add a piece of 1/4 “ plywood to the sides of the battery to stabilize it better if you want in a T battery carrier andanother piece on the bottom of the carrier to help raise it up.

It sits on 3/4" plywood. And yes it is a 12 volt battery, I got tired of purchasing 6 volt batteries, they just don't last. It did totally fry the alternator, and don't assume just because it has an alternator its 12 volts, i ran a 6 volt alternator for many years. I use the T as a second car weather permitting, It gets better milage then my pick up.

I get 3 to 4 years from a group 1 six volt battery. Part of getting long life is to keep them charged, but not over charged.
I wish I would have bought an Optima battery a few years ago. Over time I believe they are a money saver over time. I think they will last 10 years.

Art Mirtes

I use 6 volt Optimas in 3 of my cars. One lasted 14 years before I had to replace it, though they probably average 8 to 10 years. Cost more to buy, but amortized over average battery life keeps me using them.

Whatever battery is used, it must be clamped down securely, to avoid accidental contact at the terminals, and to limit damage due to vibration. Just look at how the battery in a modern car is tied down.

I always use a battery box in the cradle under the car, so the battery can't go far! Most batteries need a spacer board under them to lift the battery up level with the carrier bracket. Regardless of size, it is a simple matter to make two wooden pieces to both keep the battery in place and to act as pads for the hold-down clamps. I machine up two L shaped blocks about 2" long. The foot on the L goes on top of the battery and the leg down the inside of the box. The thickness of either depends on the battery dimensions. Wood does not invite corrosion like any metal piece. It is non-conductive. It is easy to machine to any dimension.

I never run a battery box cover these days, following a near loss with an electrical fault years ago. However, the standard Ford lid just sits on the wood blocks, and the hold -down clamps hold the cover, blocks, and in turn, the battery, just as they need to be.

That said, I am now a firm advocate for Optima red top 6 volt batteries, and I have had to change the way these are held down, but held down they must be. They sit diagonally in the battery box, and a simple straight length of wood could replace the two L shaped pieces I used previously.

Allan from down under.

A wooden box could be built to the size of the Ford battery, then the Optima battery set in it and potted in place with expanding urethane foam. That would allow clamping it firmly. Heat retention might be an issue at high charging rates, but I'd think it would be OK mounted under the car and away from high underhood heat.