MTFCA Forum

Curious whether the tube mounting clips shown here are OEM parts. This carbide gas supply line is believed to have been removed from a 1910 chassis, where the compression tee is certainly not an original part, and where this assembly was fastened to the bottom of the frame, using the same cotter pinned screws that hold the engine splash pans on. If OEM parts, I'm curious when these were used. Many thanks for your thoughts and comments.
Regards,
Scott

Yes, Scott, those are OEM acetylene lamp tubing clips.

There are three on the driver side and one on the passenger side.

Here are the front two on the driver's side: Here is the clip by the brake handle: This car was owned by Ward Sherwood

Here is the clip on the passenger side: Here is the whole assembly:
I hope these pictures help.

: ^ )

Keith

Many thanks for these excellent photos Keith. Notice how my clips do not fully wrap around the tube. Perhaps they did at one time, and someone has altered them?
Are the 4 pan/tube cottered mounting screws longer to accommodate the clips, or are all identical. I have 10 of these special screws.
Are your tube fittings (elbow, tee, sleeve) originals? Curious where to purchase these in brass if available. I saw the TEE for sale in vendors catalogs, but description of that standard plumbing TEE says this is copper versus brass.
Regards,
Scott

The fittings the vendors sell are not correct. They are made from copper. Keith spent hours filing and reshaping his to work. I'm lucky. I was able to obtain a few new castings which are no longer available for mine. The brass tubing is available from McMaster Carr, and must be annealed where there are bends. The red rubber correct tubing is not available. It is too large a diameter. I was able to get the clips from Kim Dobbins. I don't know if he still has any. Now if we could just get Ron Gocek to make the red tubing CORRECTLY again, everyone should be happy. It should be 7/16"O.D. and 1/4" I.D. 1/2" tubing will work, but no larger!

Scott-
As you know, the mounting bolts are the pan mounting bolts, but I have seen different specification regarding the length. RV Anderson says they are 25/32" long. The 1912 catalog says the p/n 3088 engine pan bolt and nut, is 1/4" and 9/16" long. Seven are required, so it sounds like they are all the same length. The thread is 1/4-28 TPI and the square head of the bolt and nut are 3/8" across the flats.

I believe our multi-talented friend, Rick Eagle made these: As Larry pointed out, I fabricated my fittings. Do you have the specs?

Here is a picture of the fittings that Randy Driscoll made: Here are the fitting I made: Here is the T fitting: (I believe that 7/16" measurement is to the center of the tube making the total height of the T 5/8" (?))

Here is the L fitting: These is way more here:
https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=5662

Have fun and please show us your work.

: ^ )

Keith

Hello Larry and Keith:
Much appreciate this detailed response. I can make these parts but was hoping there was someone out there already building them. Seems these would be multi-model year items that could sell reasonably well for the vendors.

I made my pan screws from an original, however these shown look to be maybe 1/8" longer than mine. Not sure whether to make up longer screws for the clip locations, or likely just make a full set of the longer ones

I will make up the brass tube fittings as you did Keith. I'm curious why the 90 degree elbow was used instead of a bend here. An 1/4" annealed brass tube should form a clean 3/4" radius bend with no problem.

Rubber tubing can be turned down, such as rubber industrial processing rolls that are cut to especially tight tolerances. One method is a dry ice application where the tube length has a steel core inserted to hold the shape, while the assembly is frozen. Diameter is then ground to tolerance on a specially equipped lathe. This is lot trouble to go through, but will absolutely produce a good looking precision diameter. The finished rubber surface will have a matted finish when complete.

Regards,
Scott

Keith
Thanks for the absolutely awesome photos.
You answered every question I have had for years about the acetylene lines and routing on my 1914 Runabout, and in just a few pics!
This is a GREAT contribution!

Bill-
Although the principle is the same, the acetylene line routing for 1914 (and 1913) is different. The pipe goes on the inside of the frame rail, and there is a cross-pipe on the radiator with a T mounted. Here is some information that may be helpful:

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50 ... 1436287370

viewtopic.php?t=2012

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80 ... 1249959009

: ^ )

Keith