MTFCA Forum

Dave1

Thanks, sounds like the solvent type is the way to go.

Dave1

Thinking of buying an automatic parts washer cabinet.
There are two types on the market,
(that I am aware of) the solvent and water type
Having not used either, what are the pros and cons?

Dave1

Replacing the straps with seat belt material .
Question, the straps I removed were stapled to the middle and front bows, is this necessary?
Thinkin this would be difficult to locate the position with the top installed?

Dave1

Thanks, all good advice

Dave1

The top of the 27 Canadian touring needs the 2” wide straps replaced. Also It also doesn’t fit very well, the drivers side is not tight, the passenger side seems fine. I understand to replace the straps will require pulling the staples. Before I take on the project, I think it would be best to follo...

Dave1

Thanks Karl

Dave1

Dave1 wrote: ↑
Thu Feb 12, 2026 3:38 pm
Sure enough the PO had applied some weld to the thing sections of the bow tubing, along with some paint,… so it was fixed, Right?!!
Next step is to replace the bow, are these available from the vendors??IMG_4318.jpegI

Dave1

Sure enough the PO had applied some weld to the thing sections of the bow tubing, along with some paint,… so it was fixed, Right?!!
Next step is to replace the bow, are these available from the vendors??

Dave1

Dave1

Posted a picture but it didn’t load ??

Dave1

My 27 touring has a crack / bend in the the lower section of the the front bow. Wondering is I should attempt to repair on the car?
I have a lathe so I could cut it off at the break and make a dowel to fit inside, then braze up the joint.
Anybody tried this repair?

Dave1

Thanks, initially I am looking at removing some padding from the front seat, think I talk to an upholstery shop

Dave1

How does one remove the front seat cushion ( back) on a 27 touring?
This one was recently re upholstered, looks like the covering is stapled in place, if so does this require pulling all the staples and then replacing them?

Dave1

Where is Ron Patterson’s method posted?

Dave1

Oops,….when I was bench testing I was turning the armature counter clockwise . When it is installed in the car it rotates clockwise .
Not sure what this tells me…..should I reverse the leads from the field coils and retest?

Dave1

Yes tried to adjust the moveable brush

Dave1

New generator gear, and yes the armature is turning.

Dave1

I did all the tests suggested on the growler.
Did not do an amperage test on the bench,
My thinking ( maybe not correct) is if the generator is not producing any voltage , a amp test will not tell me much

Dave1

Should have mentioned that I tested the output from the terminal post, no cutout involved.

Dave1

26 generator was functioning in the car. On this car I have rebuilt the drive train, so I thought it would be a good idea to go over the starter and generator. The previous owner had gone through the generator as it has a new insulated brush plate. The field coils are not new, however they are not g...

Dave1

A Whiteman, Thanks for posting the information on the K-W magneto. Reading the catalogue description, "I am guessing" that in the case of a model T this would be used in the event of a Ford magneto failure. In 1910 the Ford magneto was the only source of ignition, (this was pre generator models), an...

Dave1

Thanks !
Now I know

Dave1

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Dave1

“ I think” the roofline is correct, thinking I will talk to an upholstery shop.
Yes the seat is quite comfortable, but craning your head to see, not so much.
Thanks for help.

Dave1

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Dave1

[image][image][/image][/image]

Dave1

You are correct, the last owner used plywood on the bottom beneath of the springs, this in itself adds will add 1/2” of height.
Looks like I need to take the seat apart and see what is on the top side of the spring package

Dave1

Measured from the floor to the top of the cushion,
It is 13 1/2”
Plus when you sit on the seat it does not “sag”

Two things wrong, the seat is too high and is too hard,
what to do?
It would not be a simple task cut down the seat support frame.

Dave1

My thoughts are that spring packages supplied by the vendors have a different gauge of wire used for the springs.
Not sure what the cure, or remedy is ?

Dave1

John, is your spring package OEM or aftermarket?
On my 26 it has the original original seat springs, and can see through the windshield just fine.

Dave1

Thanks, I am not a Big Guy, at 5.10” And 165 lbs.
I also have a 26 Tudor with the OEM seat springs and it is fine for height.

Dave1

Granted, however if I sit in a car with OEM springs the seat
“ sags “ with your weight on it, this is too hard

Dave1

I have a 26 touring that I acquired a couple of years ago. Prior to me buying it had been restored, as in paint, body work and upholstery. The seat height is too high, with the top up you have to duck your head to see through the windshield, annoying ! It appears that the seat springs have been repl...

Dave1

Thank you.

Dave1

What are size of the replacement driving plate rivets for a 26?
I have some on hand that “ I believe “ are the right size?
Truth be told I ordered some a couple of years back,
Used what I needed ,….. then lost the packaging !

Dave1

I am assembling a 26 transmission. Have on hand a good driving plate with the exception of some scouring on the ball cap / 4th main contact area. I have a crankshaft grinder so it isn’t a huge job to turn the bearing contact area underside. Which will mean an increase in the Babbitt thickness in the...

Dave1

[image][/image]

Dave1

Tried to post a picture, would not load

Dave1

Tried to post a picture, would not load

Dave1

I acquired this “gem” a while back with some other junk.
It is a KW model ALC,…. Thinking it is a magneto?
Anyone have any information??

Dave1

What was done to the engine recently? Or did it always shake?
I have experienced this, in my case it was caused by a tight piston wrist pin.

Dave1

What is the manufacturers part number
for the large ball bearing, this is the one designed to accommodate a radial load ?
I suspect it will be cheaper source for a bearing supplier rather than the T parts vendors.

Dave1

The non Ruckstell axle tube is the same diameter as the OEM Ruckstell tube . The main difference is the non Ruckstell tube is longer. Not a huge job to shorten it.
It does take a lot force in a hyd press to insert the tube.
I made rivets and installed them hot.
Happy with the way it turned out.

Dave1

Allan, thanks for the tip, however I used as a doner a tube from a non Ruckstell . This required shortening of the tube, and of course drilling new holes

Dave1

I have a Ruckstell assembly that I am “refreshing “ When I assembled it a number of years back, the axle tube was severely bent, I opted to try the heating and shrinkage method. This did move the tube , however not far enough so I straightened it in a hyd press,…. Turns out this a mistake. Initially...

Dave1

John, that is what I suspected, think I will install two bushings then drill the grease hole through the bushings.
Thanks

Dave1

It’s time to replace the lower steering shaft bushing on my 26 Tudor. The part number on the pivot is T 932C which I’m told is the correct part for this car. I will remove material from the contact area of the shaft to correct the wear, and will make a bushing to suit. Researching on the form, it se...

Dave1

Craig, good advice, I have ordered a couple of bushings to have on hand, the thing, the delivery time up here in Canada is anywhere from 2 - 3 weeks.
Will see how the user made bushing turns out

Dave1

Jerry, I have, what I believe is a modern driving plate bushing left over from the last transmission rebuild. In that case it didn’t require replacing. I am not happy with the fit, I can push it into the housing by hand, at least for the the first 1/2 “ However, have an oversized bronze bushing that...

Dave1

Looks like I will be replacing the bushing in the driving plate, not impressed with the fit of the vendor supplied ones. Question is, how important is the diagonal oil groove to the function of lubrication? This bushing is about 1.250 inches length, wondering in 1926 if they even had an oil groove ?...

Dave1

Got it thanks

Dave1

Going to re Babbitt the fourth main soon.
When it goes time to line bore to size , I will be using my lathe, which surface on the ball do I use to indicate off ?

Dave1

What is the current Go-To timer ?
I have tried the Anderson timer, which I was not happy with .
Had great success with the TW timer, however it is no longer available.

Dave

Dave1

Is anybody making new driven gears?
I have a new low speed drum and a nice gear.
Installing new triple gears with needle bearings.
It seems a shame to use a worn driven gear.

Dave

Dave1

Anyone know the manufacturer part numbers for the front crankshaft seal and the camshaft seal. Ex SKF or National.
Simpler for me to source from a local bearing supplier rather than the T parts supplier

Dave1

Got it, thanks

Dave1

I will build up the OD of the anchor pin, then machine it to fit the hole in the bearing.

Dave1

Installing a new 280 camshaft into a 26 engine. Apparently someone had installed an earlier cam ( pre 24 style) as it has the longer front bearing,…. Not a huge issue as I can cut the bearing to the required length on my lathe. This engine engine was rebuilt recently, so I am going to try and re use...

Dave1

Thanks fellas, will try that tomorrow

Dave1

Any engine builders out there have a suggestion as how to mill a woodruff key slot key slot into a crankshaft to install the crankshaft gear? My project involves installing a Chevy crank into a T block, so the front of the crankshaft have been modified, part of the modification involves cutting a ne...

Dave1

Gotcha, not a huge job to mill the saddles out a tad.
I know…..”How many thousands are there in tad?”

Dave1

No pressured oil system, splash type

Dave1

Jerry, I like that quote! Kerry , you are correct in that the mains are not centred to the bolt holes, I referenced the camshaft when setting up the align boring machine. The thinnest Babbitt is up near the mating surface of the main right next to the bolt hole. At the bottom where the oil channel w...

Dave1

Let me explain , I have a crankshaft grinder as well an align boring machine.
The mains saddles in the block have been sized to accommodate the Chevy main journals,
I am just asking if .010” - .012” is too thin, hoping some engine builders will chime in.

Dave1

This a modification, installing a Chevrolet crankshaft int a T block

Dave1

In a perfect world, how thick should the babbitt be ? talking about main bearings
I understand that more is not better, but how thin can you go,.... without losing sleep, in my case I have measured .010 - .012"

Dave

Dave1

Kerry apparently resides in Australia, and I am in Canada

Dave1

Thanks guys, I have a plan

Dave1

This is the splash line system, no oil pump.
Looks like in the picture you provided, the lube hole is centered to the bolt holes. I take it this is the centre journal?

Dave1

I have a 26 block that I am about to align bore the mains. The Babbitt has been poured some time ago, unfortunately I do not the location of the oil hole marked. I would like to drill from the bearing side through to the hole in the upper side of the block. Does anyone have the position of the oil h...

Dave1

Thanks Kevin,
Will start welding today…..fingers crossed crossed !

Dave1

Kevin,
When are welding the boxing plates to the rod, do you secure the rod in the alignment fixture to minimize warping.

Dave

Dave1

Kevin,
The Chevy rods has a spacer plate between the connecting rod and the cap. This spacer is .125” thick.
Although when I disassembled the engine there were no shims to compensate for bearing wear.
Question, do you install a few shims when assembling these rod?

Dave

Dave1

Does any know Ben’s condition?
I send him an ignition switch back in June of this year.
Apparently he has undergone cataract surgery a month or so ago.
Tried phoning, no answer and he does not do email.

Dave

Dave1

That sounds reasonable. But I cannot imagine a circumstance where the cap would need to be filed .050”
Maybe over the course of many refits ?

Dave1

I have recently acquired the tools and machinery to pour and size babbit, I am not professing to be an expert by any means. However I have made some observations, it seems that the older engines I have disassembled which appear to have OEM Babbitt. I only “assume” these to be OEM, for example they w...

Dave1

Gotcha, thanks

Dave1

What is the recommended radius for the ends of the bearing journals when grinding. I have a coupe of cranks on hand, it seems the last fellows that ground had different ideas.

Dave

Dave1

Thanks Kevin, good advice. I have a 28 Chev engine that will be the doner for the rods. The crankshaft I will be using is from another engine and is ready to grind. It seems the guys at Chevrolet did things a bit different than Ford. The rods have a spacer about .125” thick between the rod and cap. ...

Dave1

Thanks for the info, for this purpose a length of 7.00 will do fine

Dave1

Any one know what the specs are for a T connecting rod is from centre - centre, small end to big end ?
Need to make an alignment jig for welding Chevy / T
Rods

Dave1

I realize this is a bit of a contentious topic, but I would like to put it out there just the same. Question is, whether to add Babbitt to the sides of the rear main bearing saddle on the upper (block) side. One school of thought argument against is that in order to get the Babbitt to stick you shou...

Dave1

Thanks Mark

Dave1

Mark,
Which brand do you use?

Dave1

Thanks Kerry,
This will be my first crack at pouring Babbitt, thanks for the tips

Dave1

Kerry,
Aluminum foil I will have, exhaust sealer are you referring to header wrap or gasket material?

Dave

Dave1

Thanks for the tips

Dave1

Wondering how far can you bore out the main bearing saddles, on not effect the process of pouring Babbitt?
The concern is if you expose the bolt holes the molten Babbitt will leak out

Dave1

I will be using the rear main as the thrust , rather than the centre main as the Chevy crank was designed

Dave1

I have the bearing caps made up. I had planned on having about .050 “ of Babbitt on the rear thrust surface, however it’s looking like about .150”
The final will depend on outcome of the crankshaft grind

Dave1

What is the best thickness for the Babbitt on the thrust faces on the rear main cap? Making a set of bearing caps to accommodate a Chevy crankshaft. Let’s just say that some of my calculations were wrong, and the cap is a bit undersize in the length direction. Wondering how thick the Babbitt can be ...

Dave1

Anyone recall the centre to centre distance from the camshaft to crankshaft?

Dave

Dave1

Today’s project is get the Tobin Arp line boring machine operating. With the operating instructions in hand, most of the steps are pretty self explanatory. Untill it gets to the section on securing the block to the parallels, It says to clamp to a stud at each end of the block. Move the parallels ou...

Dave1

Thinkin About ordering a set of Blockley tires for my 26 Tudor (450-21) I understand that Blockley is fairly new in the tire manufacturing business. Does anyone have an idea of how they wear? My last set (Universals) likely have 8 - 10K miles on them and they are done. Pretty disappointing Dave Eddie

Dave1

Anybody out there using their T to transport a bicycle or bicycles ? Thinking of adapting a rack for two bikes to the rear of our 26 Tudor. Not sure if utilizing the spare tire rack is the way to go, or would it be best to come off the frame. We plan on doing some touring but thought it would be nic...

Dave1

Very informative, thanks again.

Dave Eddie

Dave1

Any heating required, before or after welding ?

Dave Eddie

Dave1

Looks good Kevin, why do you remove the inner web? is it a weight issue?

Dave Eddie

Dave1

Kevin , can’t wait to see the final project

Dave1

Kevin, Interesting wondering what type of welding you are using, Mig, Tig or ?

Dave Eddie

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