MTFCA Forum

Scott_Conger

a little time in some water and it will be the size it's meant to be

Scott_Conger

Now, how fun was THAT?

Scott_Conger

Les

I just reread your post. I didn't realize this was new. Probably missed a grind operation and I'd bet the supplier would gladly replace.

And Steve

I completely agree

Scott_Conger

Tony I am guessing that as of July '13, no problems were found with the Beaudette bodies was indicative of the length of service and that they must have been marginally better, but the fact that you could buy the brace from Ford post purchase indicates to me at least, that regular service over month...

Scott_Conger

Kenneth

interesting info about your car. Thanks for sharing.

Scott_Conger

My experience has been that rear unbalance is all but undetectable under 35MPH. If I was to put in balance beads, I'd put 4oz in the rear and be done with it. On the front, it might be prudent to see if 4oz is even enough. After putting them in for others, I personally find the installation hassle a...

Scott_Conger

Jeff, I would doubt that other years had similar very early introductions to new body styles. The 1913 was a significant design change and I consider it to be a particularly nice and interesting car...I have a Jan. 1, 1913 touring, myself. That said, the body design was a dud from robustness standar...

Scott_Conger

Les

take a look at John Regan's response here: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/25 ... 1330324854

Scott_Conger

To the top one time, then they're gone.

Scott_Conger

You will need as a minimum, the same amount of weight (or more) as it takes to static balance your wheel on the car. So, with loose wheel bearing, if it takes 5 oz of weight to get the tire to not seek a particular spot, then you will need at least that amount in the tube. Due to the way the beads d...

Scott_Conger

Everything is worn. Changing push rods means fitting them/reaming the boss' to match. To do that, you must pull the cam shaft. It and the bearings are worn...replace them, too? The cam gear will be worn...replace? Probably need an oversize cam gear since the new gear will not mesh well with the cran...

Scott_Conger

Pull the valves, measure the guides. If necessary (and it will be), ream the valve guides to the next size up. Cut new seats with Neway valve seat cutters, buy new valves of correct stem diameter. Send new valves out to have seat angle reground (cheap insurance against shipping damage) and fit the v...

Scott_Conger

I have used it and have reported results to the forum. It is GREAT stuff. I'd suggest that you buy the kit, and if the tank is really bad, buy an extra quart of the cleaner and extra gallon of the etch, separately. This will cover a larger area inside while processing, than a quart and will speed th...

Scott_Conger

The Truth Is Out There...

Scott_Conger

For me, they're red until I read them and then they turn blue. I have to "return to forum" at the bottom of the page (not use back arrow on browser) or hit refress (F5).

still working for me

Scott_Conger

Steve

think about your reasoning on the oil holes being on top. If the oiler is on the centerline of the shackle bolt, oil will never exit the hole to lubricate the joint.

Scott_Conger

Tim I remember a time when these were worthless. As a kid, my dad collected clocks (I later became a watchmaker for a period of time, years later) and in the 1960's there were two clocks that you didn't want to find in the pile of clocks bought out of garages and estates: Oak kitchen clocks and car ...

Scott_Conger

Frank

on early shackles with the twist oiler, there is in fact a correct and an incorrect way to install them. Not just aesthetics, but right and wrong.

Scott_Conger

I'm putzing around on a Stromberg OF, and have bought a couple more to rehab for myself. If you are doing the same and would like to refresh the throttle/choke plate screws, rather than reuse the old cruddy ones, take a look: Stromberg Throttle and Choke plate screws.gif Not sure there is enough of ...

Scott_Conger

Excellent!

Welcome!

Scott_Conger

The Part Number at regular suppliers is: 6212 That part is made with an orifice that is smaller than original, by a sizeable margin. It is fine for driving where high speeds are not sustained, or long hard hills are encountered. If either of those two conditions will be met by you, then you may want...

Scott_Conger

My use of "periodically" was probably ill-advised. "Rare Occasion" would be more apt. Still, it happens. The casual mechanic may never encounter it, but do enough coil repairs, and you will run across it. Between iron core and primary, or between primary and secondary. Ohmeters will not catch this i...

Scott_Conger

It is hard to believe this car did not sell in the US. The market is unfortunately as soft as I had feared. Even with customs and shipping, the new UK owner has likely scored a very good value, even if costs exceed its worth.

Scott_Conger

Matt and Luke most anyone rebuilding coils and wishing to create high quality, long lasting and reliable coils will periodically run into a situation where using a Megger during the rebuild process is all but mandatory, unless their time has no value and they're happy with a rebuilt coil which will ...

Scott_Conger

Email sent

Scott_Conger

Tony it's nice that you guys lent a helping hand. As you implied, changing brands of timers is not a "one size fits all" situation. All that soot is undoubtedly from burning fuel far too late in the cycle to create an explosion. I've seen it numerous times. There often isn't even a detectable "pop" ...

Scott_Conger

They do in fact look fine...just installed backwards Consider new lining material based on reverse band Purchase Repairing And Restoring The Model T Ford Transmission and also do some searching on the MTFCA forum for discussions on triple pin bushing clearance. Reading the book and studying the volu...

Scott_Conger

Bruce, I read down through responses before I posted mine and I would do as you have suggested. I'd remove all of the remnants of the notches back to their root, to establish the "baseline" and silver solder a piece of curved brass into place, and refile the teeth with a triangular or similar, file....

Scott_Conger

Don

asking this group for opinions is like asking a dog for fleas. You're gonna get 'em.

Scott_Conger

Scott

I think that was an excellent route to take for aesthetics, safety, and (relative) ease of implementation's sake.

Thanks for sharing the results

Scott_Conger

Thank you...I have just sent an email.

Scott_Conger

Glen

I've called and not gotten through and left an email several days ago

How best can I place an order?

Thank you

Scott_Conger

Glen

I've called and not gotten through and left an email several days ago

How best can I place an order?

Thank you

Scott_Conger

It looks as if the removable bands have been ground on for clearance sake. They were installed backwards.

If I am correct in the tangs having been ground back, you will want to a) locate new old bands and b) install them with the removable ears on the driver's side

Scott_Conger

after the perches are out is the time to press, twist, and otherwise slug it out with the axle. You will really want to do this when they're out: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/17 ... 1323767931

You will find out if the car was ever towed by the axle. If it was, then it's bent.

Scott_Conger

1/2 of the cost to restore a similar car purchased "cheap" for $4K meaning, this car at $7500, is 1/2 the cost of the complete restoration of (some other) car purchased for (let's say) $4K. I guess I could have been more clear the first time around. Black T prices are trending downward and that is ...

Scott_Conger

This appears to be a screaming deal and could put you into the hobby at 1/2 of the cost to restore a similar car purchased "cheap" for $4K. https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=9327 The most expensive T you can afford will turn out to be the cheapest in the end. Hit the road and start ha...

Scott_Conger

First, see Wayne's photos of his runabout and you'll see his seat shelf sits well forward of yours and has all 3 bracket bolts going through it. This is where I mentioned you may have to shorten the 2 longitudinal body forming pieces which run along the top and bottom of the main rail. Here's the sa...

Scott_Conger

Order some catalogues to have in hand. Body styles will be shown in the section where TOPS are sold. This will start showing you the differences in profiles or "looks" of the car. You mentioned this would be your first car. If by that you mean "first antique car" then that's fine. If you mean "my fi...

Scott_Conger

and these:

Scott_Conger

Mike

not out to shop yet but found these:

underside

joint

finished joint

sheet metal wood waiting for skin

Scott_Conger

Mike it's all covered over now, but let me have a go at it and see what it is tomorrow Now, some things may have to be translitterated...the Miller plans used thinner material in some places than the actual wood was (I planed mine to correct thicknesses in each case). My point is that the seat riser...

Scott_Conger

Robert sometimes those repro wrenches need to be kissed on a belt sander or a grinding wheel. I have an original wrench which fit an old nut just fine, but because I tour and wanted to carry a wrench (and not an original pristine one) I bought a repro wrench. Wouldn't fit the nut. Huh. Ground the su...

Scott_Conger

Steve

I really like that cage. It's hard to impress folks how much energy is stored up and the potential human and shop damage that can occur with unfixtured parts if they get away under load...particularly with parts of this length. Kudos to you for a well thought out design. Thanks for sharing.

Scott_Conger

Has taken awhile for my neurons to work properly. I seem to recall that the Miller plans showed the main rails at two different lengths in two different places on the drawings which caused great consternation. Your talk of how far back the rear part is from the crossmember jogged my memory. I left m...

Scott_Conger

Thank you all for your responses. This first order will go ahead.

I will commit to making tools to fill requests up to Terry Miller. Further requests will be put on a waiting list, which hopefully will be filled without too much delay.

thank you all for looking

Scott_Conger

John in Illinois you will solve the problem you're asking about. The following is for you after that: 1. you MUST measure the axle with proper and accurate tools to be CERTAIN that the diameter will give the proper press fit. Axles are often large by a thou or two and have very small burrs that will...

Scott_Conger

Adam

that has got to be the best answer I've ever seen given for this sort of question

Scott_Conger

Life is good

Scott_Conger

This will install or remove my Full Flow Float Valve or the common commercial valve offered by vendors for your NH or Vaporizor carburetor. It will NOT work correctly on original valves as the pilot is a different size, nor will it work on Grose Valves. They come out with a screwdriver anyway, with ...

Scott_Conger

Turn the engine over slowly by hand and have a helper shine a light on the roller assembly. Soon enough, a headed pin like a precision nail will present itself and you pull that out. That aligns the roller to the proper timing on the camshaft and that is what that funny washer is keeping in place.

Scott_Conger

Here is the front of my sill. In your imagination, overlay the front of your all-wood sill over my wood/metal front end and you'll see that the metal side is able to swoope in where yours will be forced to bulge out too soon. As an edit, now that my pictures posted and can quickly compare to yours, ...

Scott_Conger

The front end of the sill looks too blunt to me. If it is, it will push out the side panel too soon and use length to make that transition. I suspect that if it was less blunt, it would shift back some in the back. I first set my firewall pillars and then the cowl/door hinge pilars. Level the cowl. ...

Scott_Conger

Ignacio

this is a creative and fun way to follow you along in an afternoon rather than spread over 3 years. Congratulations to you and very clever to post this.

Scott_Conger

It looks like work was done on sheet metal on passenger's side. There is some slim chance it's wrong. I'd be inclined to work driver's side first since it's much sturdier than the side with the door. I had to go to great pains and make jigs, etc to fixture the door so that all would be good when I r...

Scott_Conger

There should be a gap between the sill support wood (the wood plank screwed to the face/side of the main beam) and the seat riser. The sill metal wraps around it and the body metal wraps around the seat riser. The two metal pieces fit tight against each other. That gap in the wood allows the two she...

Scott_Conger

Nice Matt
very pleased for you

Scott_Conger

Should look like this. Note picture #3...I rejected this as an error as I removed material near the top which would have left a gap between the body and the trunk...this part got remade and I failed to take that picture...I did my own wood so had no one to blame but myself. You will be hanging metal...

Scott_Conger

Good that you are acquainted with working brass. Just know that you're used to working with brass that is alloyed for what you're doing, and this has a very different grain structure than you're used to. It will kick your butt if you're not careful. Knowing brass gives you a leg up but be careful to...

Scott_Conger

anneal, let it cool to room temp, bend a very little bit...repeat a lot of times

multiple annealings followed by thorough cooling during the process is mandatory, in my experience. It takes very little material movement for the metal to become very brittle again.

Scott_Conger

Running the "better" foot switch in my cars. Many thousands of miles over 10 years. Correct sized cables, efficient starter and never a failure. Solenoids are not on my list of "must haves". Gather a group of 150 cars on a National Tour. Figure that some small percentage will have a solenoid. At the...

Scott_Conger

Being energy independent as a nation for the first time in many many years, common sense says that ethanol has had it's day. Though not particularly easy to locate on the web, the EPA issued a report that ethanol is in fact doing the opposite of what the environmentalists claim: https://www.publicne...

Scott_Conger

I would bet that the clerk typed in "car hauler" and the system logged it in as an enclosed trailer. Too bad they didn't code "utility".

Scott_Conger

Would like to see how he'd get it up on the table...

Scott_Conger

Tim

imagine in a few years if that boy rejects his gender and assumes a new one...then those acres would have been burnt for nothing!

Scott_Conger

Mack, I have one comment. It is not a criticism, as you have built a lovely trailer...it is a safety warning which I hope you take to heart: Your extension springs need a containment device for safety...(!!!!!). If ever the springs let loose, at best they will cause damage and at worst, serious inju...

Scott_Conger

Doug

welcome!
nice to see more "guests" becoming registered users.

Scott_Conger

Jim as a kid, I did what you did, for my dad's T. Just couldn't believe it didn't have an air cleaner. After installation, our experience was just the same as yours. Performance suffered, and these are not cars that have a lot to spare. Others disagree and claim to have seen no performance degradati...

Scott_Conger

Nice looking car, Mark

Scott_Conger

Mark there may well be a need to check the link, but too long or too short, the low pedal has to go over-center for it to lock in place. The link will not prevent this or cause this. Only excess forward pedal travel will cause this and that is only due to excessively loose low band or worn out pedal...

Scott_Conger

George I've seen you post some great metals stuff, but I'm not feeling this one. Super good bushing material, but from a design standpoint, I myself wouldn't make a shaft out of it. Now you're having to make hardened rockers and ultimately deal with a worn out shaft rather than knocking out some wor...

Scott_Conger

low is so loose that it goes over-center with the high speed clutch linkage. Give the low band adjuster bolt a full turn and resecure the lock nut (bolt on passenger side of hog's head that has two flats on it). It was either too loose as adjusted after bands were done, or low drum is cracked and is...

Scott_Conger

Les

I expect this will be very interesting as it progresses. Looking forward to more.

Scott_Conger

Lang's is a reamer for 95+% of all spindle bolts...namely the standard lower cost bolts (.500) that fit for 09-27, but are "correct" only for later cars, about '18 and newer Snyders is a reamer for RV Anderson's correct 09-14 bolts (.502 bolts) Long before the Snyder's reamer was available, I reamed...

Scott_Conger

Re Sparkplugs generally speaking, the front, #1 plug will run the coolest and rear #4 plug will run the hottest. It is the nature of the beast with respect to coolant flow. That said, nearly every as-is car I've worked on, has cheap $2 paper gaskets at the intake/exhaust manifold glands. They invari...

Scott_Conger

That '09 looks perfect to me

Scott_Conger

Not many miles left before what could become a bad accident. Very good that you're doing this. New perches are nearly indistinguishable from originals and are worth the expense.

Scott_Conger

So there you have it. Based on comments thus far, you'd have a heck of a time selling the hack if you tired of it. I mean, really hard time . So if future $$ enter into the equation, your decision has been made. The reality is in this hobby, you will sink more $$ into the car than you will get back ...

Scott_Conger

Holley NH and vaporizors will idle poorly if 1. the idle passages were not properly opened up and cleaned and replugged when rebuilt 2. throttle shafts and casting worn such that excess air enters where it shouldn't 3. heat plate or other fittings exhibit vacuum leaks 4. float setting improper prope...

Scott_Conger

:lol: Robert! You just broke Rule #1! (Never leave the key or anything which can fall into the transmission when the cover is off). At least you have a retrieval strap for that key! :lol: Seriously, once you're done with the engine and you're on the road, cover that hole everytime you walk away from...

Scott_Conger

Tim

thanks for the education. Plus, I read back to the original post and I missed the part about stainless. I agree that this would not be the best choice. Glad you caught that.

Scott_Conger

Donnie

I'm not a speed guy and thus know little of the head you're using. Lack of knowledge leads me to ask: why are you altering the original design and going to one shaft?

Scott_Conger

Matt in reality, with appropriate tools and methods, the rivet can be tightened if loose, and generally moved and staked to wherever it needs to be to get the operator's desired gap. They very rarely start out too close...usually too loose. It of course can be hammered flat and ruined, but that is a...

Scott_Conger

Your gut feel for shafts is pretty good. 12L14 is out of the question, and I think it would be a mistake to not bush the rockers with an appropriate material.

Scott_Conger

To the top, because they are in stock with no waiting. Made a bunch of 'em this time after quickly running out the last time.

Scott_Conger

Steve I too, have swapped over to Mobile, having read Royce's words. Was working on a pristine early two piece timer for a friend and used it on his timer and have put 1 season on one of my ANCO timers with it. Used to use White (lithium) grease which worked fine for years (so what the heck am I doi...

Scott_Conger

Jim, I am glad you've settled on a combination of stuff that you're happy with. The reality is, you'll have to haunt auto flea markets for a looooooong time to find a 50 year old can of oil with enough "stuff" in it to cause electrical trouble in a T. With respect to grease, you'd have to specifical...

Scott_Conger

So, "Dim Bulb" is one of the more appropriate metaphores, eh?

Scott_Conger

Les

no offense was intended...I didn't even see your earlier reply. Obviously the person with the desire and wherewithall is the person to do it. Hopefully whoever does tackle it will share the end result with us. Hopefully your toes will recover soon after my trampling.

Scott_Conger

The short to ground guys are nearly certainly correct. On the bright side (sorry 'bout that), that one light is probably REALLY bright.

Scott_Conger

Phone call for Tim Morsher or Hank...

Scott_Conger

Frank, you've posted every picture possible, except for what you're referring to as a "skirt". :) Post that. If it has anything like this: https://www.modeltford.com/item/3977BQ.aspx, then it is a marriage If it has anything like this: https://www.modeltford.com/item/3977A.aspx, it is not And, origi...

Scott_Conger

Matt you will not find many people thrilled to find coils with screws holding the cushion spring. It's fine for experimental work, but would be bad practice to advise it for someone who only knows your work/document for their baseline. If it works for you, fine of course. A better plan would be to s...

Scott_Conger

Never wrong to ask an honest question, Danny

Scott_Conger

Mack your coil box does not need a ground, and there is no place to connect one. If as you surmise, the wood in the box is wet, it may well have carbon tracks in it now. If there is indeed a current path through the wood, or a wire is pinched or rubbed bare between the bottom of the wood and the ste...

Scott_Conger

Take a look at June 26: https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=4747

quick and dirty is to look at the steering wheel pinion...if it is basically the same size as the planetary gears, it's early.

Scott_Conger

Well, Robert, I failed to look at your YouTube video before. Shame on me for not, and giving bad advice. Looks like your assumption is right on. That is a very strange thing, having the wrong ring. As an aside, bendix's end up looking like that after continued use with 12V, or consistently trying to...

Scott_Conger

You only need to lift the front of the hog's head slightly to get clearance, but it really sounds like something remains on the starter shaft. Are you absolutely certain all of the broken parts are off? You should be able to look into the hole and clearly see the starter shaft "floating" in the babb...

Scott_Conger

White Lithium Grease is non-conductive and fine for use (if you wish) on appropriate style timers. I've used it for years on my ANCO type timers, but have recently switched to a synthetic Mobile grease

for info: https://crcindustries.com.au/products/c ... -5037.html

Scott_Conger

John, this is the rule: No business advertisements or lengthy descriptions of your product or services. Doesn't say you can't mention your item, doesn't say you can't give a brief description of how it may pertain to a poster's question, you're not banned from discussions which may mention your prod...

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