MTFCA Forum

What's nice is that this car is all there and not cobbled together, it is a solid and complete 1923 and although it looks a little like a T, up close the mechanics and details make it distinct and unique.

I'm sorry if this is taboo not being a T. 1923 Chevrolet Superior 490 Touring Car . Original motor and 3-speed transmission. Runs and drives, clear open title. Newer roof, new head gasket and valve job, nice interior upholstery and new wiring. Starts and runs well, Need to sell for financial needs. ...

Hey folks, is it true that New York state didn't issue titles until the 60s? I am wondering if anyone had trouble with their state buying a T from NY without a title?

Thanks,
Jim

This is a longshot but I want to ask if anyone has a 1926-7 Touring top with irons that might be for sale?

Thanks,
Jim Chochole
Oswego, IL

It is absurd to think that all straw hats across the whole US instantly died out after that small bit of idiocy- that is a limited criminal incident in NY. So, wearing a straw hat after that is perfectly acceptable and was probably still common in most of the US for some time. Unlike today's instant...

Headlights are sold- thanks MTFCA!

Here's a nice set of restored solid original headlights, script buckets, lens, bulbs & nice bright reflectors. $200 plus shipping or best offer. Located in Oswego, IL 60543. Text Jim at 630-935-8561 or email anteekguy97@aol.com

email sent

I have seen many T's running newer fuel bowls in glass- enjoy and happy motoring.

The horn has been sold, thank you.

For sale is a rebuilt and restored EA Laboratories hand horn and a new custom made bracket for it. Bracket needs to be drilled and mounted. Guaranteed to scare small children and animals- strong and loud horn! Located in Oswego, IL . $150 or best offer plus shipping. Email anteekguy97@aol.com or tex...

They have been sold, thank you to the forum.

Car has been sold, thanks.

Nice complete set of 26-27 Model T wire wheels with tires that hold air and support a car, good complete set of front and back hubs and most lug nuts. Wheels are solid with a layer of age - should clean up well. Located In Oswego, IL about 45min west of Chicago. $1000 or best offer.n Text/call Jim a...

1926 Touring car project car. Parade car that sports a large school bell, a loud aoogah horn, two hidden speakers under the car for 1920s music and a CB hidden so you can talk at people while driving. Starts, runs & stops well. Runs only on a distributor, magneto removed. Lots of dings, dents, nicks...

They look great!

Just finished my project and have some extra seat springs available for sale. If somebody is interested I will measure them - The two smaller ones look like lower seat springs and the large one would be a good back rest. They are local pick up only and I am in Oswego, Illinois. Call or text Jim at 6...

Was able to mount my first front fender and I noticed this hole not functional? Should the circled yellow be an open hole- because on my car it isn't.

Thank you, Dan!

I am about ready to mount my front fenders but am not sure what holes are only for the fenders, I know the hood shelves use a few of them too.

Does anyone have a pic or say which holes are dedicated to fenders before the shelves go in?

Thanks,
Jim

I am mounting my rear fenders on my '26 T and need to dbl-check that they are 5/16" 24 bolts? I think there are 4 on each side that bolt the fender to the body. If so, is that a common size for big box retailers to carry?

Thanks,
Jim

Response sent.

My '26 Touring doesn't have a top but I have irons, I'd like to get an old boot (Roadster or Touring) and puff it out to look as though the top is down- so if anyone has an old boot, please holler. Or even better, an old top that I can cobble something together from.

Thanks,
Jim

About a mile from my home I saw a 1925 Tudor for sale on the side of the road, I am not connected to the sale, but if anyone is interested the number on it is 312-451-2542, not sure about price, but the car looks nice.

Thanks,
Jim

Hey Fellers, I realize this isn't a stock Ford-type upholstery fabric but I see this black vinyl marine pleated stuff everywhere and wondered if anyone ever tried it in a hot rod or stock Model T? I am curious how it would lay on our cushions and backrests? Naturally this is not proper, I realize th...

Thanks very much- that is a huge helper!

See circled sides, since there isn't a tack strip on the sides, how does the cover get fastened down?

Yep, thanks Dan. I am comfortable with the top and bottom tacking, my main question is sides of the back cushion- how do those get tacked and fastened to the spring and still be tacked into the bottom? Just wondering how it looks.

Thanks,
Jim

Hey guys, I am about to start my '26 Upholstery for my Touring car, can someone snap a pic or two of your upholstery so I can see how it fastens and it tacked down without a seat cushion in place? I am confused how the cover tacks to the bottom wood and then wraps around the sides of the backrest. T...

Seems like a little dab of STP, which has zinc, will go a long way for T's.

I heard and rode in the car and she drives well. No issues, started right up and has good gears. I have no connection to the sale, just was lucky to be there when it got moved inside for the night.

Jim Chochole

Thanks for the encouragement- its nice T and does have clean straight lines. All the doors lock and close and much mechanically has been done so hoping it runs well. I'll see what I can do and post after pics of the body righted.

Thanks again!
Jim

Make that two requests for pics. email: anteekguy97@aol.com

Hey, a lot of stuff can happen In a century. Before I start doing major surgery on the crossmember, and I will try and see if I can level the body.

Here are underneath shots of these rear braces that support my body on both sides.

Thanks, here is a photo of my right side with the extension/brace that goes beyond the frame and the corner body-mount bolt goes through the brace. I also took two pics of the left side (offending saggy side) as well.

First two pics are right side.

Second two are left side.

Will do and thanks for the tips. I recently bought the car out of a dirt-floor barn and the floor was really uneven as one would expect from years and years of water and vehicles coming in and out. Once I got it home and on a level surface, I spotted the level issue. The car was restored sometime in...

Hey guys, I just got a 1919 Touring car and the darned thing has a back left sag in the body. The springs and shackles look good and even but perhaps when the resto was done, something was wrong in body measurements? My left saddle iron is 2" lower than the right, as a measurement. So, I need ideas ...

Thanks, Jsaylor, I will do just that! Much appreciated.

Jim

Car has been sold, thanks MTFCA!

Looks like this:

1915-6 Runabout project car for sale. Complete running and driving car that has had a frame-off amateur restoration. The motor has new pistons, valves and bands and the car has good power. All sheet-metal has been blasted and primed, new interior and good roof. Solid 1915-6 wooden wheels with good t...

Just wanted to see if anyone has a spare wooden block that clamps to the column to offer resistance to the spark & throttle rods. If not, I can always buy from vendors, but wanted to ask here first. Text 630-935-8561

Thanks,
Jim Chochole

Tom- FYI, most people pay CASH.

For anyone interested, we carefully separated the Tudor body from the frame and it is solid and nice! This is a very nice body candidate for a restoration and the car has very solid sheet-metal. Had a great day with Bob at Bob's Antique Auto. I snapped some pics to help folks see the condition of th...

Steering controller has been sold – thanks to the model T forum!

Neat old accessory of a brass ring that bolts to the column to make a Ford steer like a high class expensive automobile. Asking $35 plus shipping. Text Jim at 630-935-8561 or email anteekguy97@aol.com

My motor is a 1916 block. I shimmed the fan arm and ordered a more correct bent earlier style. Looks like it'll do the trick.

Thanks Dan, I'll start there. I appreciate the tips and sometimes the simplest answer eludes us, that's why I value this forum.

Thank you for the suggestions. I do want to keep the fan I like the stock look and it belongs on the motor. It also is not bent so I have a later fan bracket – thanks for seeing that.

I will replace the fan bracket and go from there – thanks guys!

Question for the T bunch- my 1915 is fighting me on the timer lever; when I am running the car the fan belt is resisting my advancing of the timer. When I advance the timing and let go, the fan belt pushes the lever back up. I am running a size up from the standard 23" for 1915 and my car has the al...

I haven't put Scandinavian bands in a T in almost 20 years but I am going to soon, do folks still find that pre-soaking them in oil is the best method?

Thanks,
Jim

If you wan to sell, just holler. Saw one sell recently on ebay.

Success! I turned down my cam bolt and found the sweet spot on the hand-brake and Voila! Neutral glory, the car ran and performed like a champ. The issue was a combination of new meatier brake shoes and clevis adjustment on the clutch linkage.

Thanks for all the help!
Jim

Yes, can push the car on the ground. I just had my son hold a back wheel (car turned off) while I cranked with handbrake vertical and he can hold the wheel still. When I held the back wheel the same way, while he cranked, while in neutral I can keep it still but it wants to turn and jerks a little e...

Gents,
Here's the part that baffles me, I can put the handbrake vertically with the car OFF, and the back wheels spin freely (jacked up) without any drag at all. Can spin with one finger pressure, BUT start the car and they spin with torque.

Sound odd or okay?

Thanks
Jim

OK guys, here’s what I did today - I disconnected the brake rods, adjusted the pedal so it stops an inch above the floorboards for the clutch. Started the car and cannot find neutral with the pedal anywhere. The tires go with power. I tried finding neutral with the handbrake looking for a sweet spot...

OKay, gotcha, I will try the foot method and sit in the car and try to hold neutral with the pedal. I am beginning to wonder if the 15 year sleep has glued the discs together? Just an idea.

Stay tuned, will try and get time today.

Thanks
Jim

The car is indeed on jack stands out of a concern for safety, but the oil was changed immediately and it is fresh. I did notice that the pawl for the transmission lever bolt was a little worn, and I may need to turn that down a bit. It is as though the trans is not disengaging as it should. I went b...

Scott-

1. when hand brake is vertical the rear wheels spin
2. when handbrake is pulled back, the engine bogs down

Thanks,
Jim

Thanks and yes, you are correct, the car is free-wheeling in neutral and no drag on the rear wheels. My issue is the car bogging down when the handbrake is pulled all the way back, and even in neutral the wheels spin quickly. The car sat for about 15 years before I bought it, so any chance the clutc...

Working on adjusting the clutch on my '22 after new back brakes (car not running when purchased) so here's what I am getting: 1. I adjusted the brake rods to be sure the back wheels spin freely when handbrake is vertical and firm when brake is pulled back. 2. However, when the car is running, the en...

Thanks guys, I am planning on starting it this upcoming weekend, so I'll let ya know how it goes.

Gents- I did exactly that, sprayed lots of cleaner in there, blew it dry with an air compressor. I then squirted Ultra black in the crack where I could reach, and where I couldn't I used a string slobbered with RTV and dropped it into the groove. I then pulled it tight from both sides with a screwdr...

Thanks Norm, much appreciate your tips and insights.

Jim

Mark,
I understand what you’re suggesting. How would you go about smearing the sealer down between the hogshead and the block where it is blind and about a 1/8” inch of clearance?

I am willing to try that first I just want to hear some suggestions about technique.

Jim

How can I Seal up the area behind the engine block in front of the hogshead where its blind and I can’t see it? I’d be willing to try that first.

And if that doesn’t work I can always rip into it later.

Jim

Fired up a long slumbering T today (about 15-18years) and oil was flowing down both sides of the hogshead from behind the crankcase. I checked the mag post and head-gasket and both were dry. It was coming from where my finger is pointing and down to the corners of the engine pans creating little oil...

It sounds like there’s a pretty good market for the cable set up for the AC and Rocky Mountain brakes. If somebody were to start making sets of those I think they could do very well.

SUCCESS! The boob before me must have screwed the reed into the wrong end of the hose, I moved the reed up to the bulb and Voila! Success!

Thanks for all your help guys!

I’m still struggling here to figure out what fits wear. The reed does not come out of the hose end.

Can someone take a look at my set up and see what the heck I’m missing? I can’t mentally figure this out

It may be, this is how I got the horn. It seems like I am missing the long brass tube in which the reed goes inside.

Does anyone have spare horn pieces they'd be willing to sell?

Thanks,
JIm

Gents, Please take a peek at my 19015 bulb horn set-up. I bought the new brass bracket for the top of the horn but am confused how it all fits? Something is either missing or wrong here. AS far as I read, for '15-'16 Ford moved the reed up into the bulb so it is a unique assembly by itself. Can anyo...

What's the best way to clean a reed?

Very cool accessory, just too pricey for me.

I am having an issue on my '15 bulb horn- when I squeeze the bulb normally I get backpressure and the bulb resists being squeezed which means very little (but good tone) sound. Its not all the time, but if I squeeze the whole thing= resistance, if I squeeze a portion of the bulb then it works. Any i...

Well -they may have discontinued of May 1915 on paper, but this seems a legit plate based on its age, font and style. So as of 1916 looks like they were still using them, at least some manufacturers were.

Thanks Bob, I was thinking of that too. I just don’t know if I have another spare chunk of change to drop on a motor.

Thank you,
Jim

Gene,
What is the thickness of the brass shim stock that you have used in the past? Did you smear the RTV all over the shim stock first before sticking it to the crack?

Thanks,
Jim

Here's my '15 (or '16)

Here's the news as of today, the evidence shows that the motor has been recently rebuilt with new .060 pistons and valves, and is very clean, and the two weepy spots looks to have been repaired at some point and tiny holes have re-emerged. The head was clean and crack free and so is the deck. Here a...

Okay retro, I'll shoot some pics tomorrow.

Just went out to check and I think I may have bigger problems- I'm leaking from the water jacket in two places.

Gotcha, will do- I have to fix an exhaust leak and my timer is getting rubbed by the fan belt, once I fix those things then I'll fire it back up. I did check the head bolts today and they were 45lbs of torque after I had it running.

Fired up my '15 for the first time and she ran like a top for about 2 minutes. I just wanted to do a short run and determine what needs to be done next. After I shut her down I found a little leak of coolant down the side coming from the head gasket. Just to be sure, sounds like pulling the head is ...

Thank you for the help, my title says 1915 but we all know that could be incorrect. The engine number on my car is # 1182437

When I bought my 1915 Runabout, this plate was in with a pile of parts. Can someone tell me the correct location for it? Thank you!

Jim

Sent you a PM about shipping to 60543?

They deserve to be on a car! Anyone want to buy them?

Hi Mike, came with a set of another plates off eBay.

Rich- what type: rubbing, methyl, ethyl, Everclear, etc?

What solvent or chemical (lacquer thinner, mineral spirits, etc) is good to pour into a gas tank that has sat for awhile to drain out through the potato for a general cleaning?

Thanks,
Jim

Restored matching set of nice heavy Illinois 1918 license plates. Asking $45 or best offer, plus shipping. Contact Jim 630-935-8561 text/call. Located in Oswego, IL.

Irons have been sold, thanks to the forum!

Thanks Steve!

For sale is a nice restored solid set of Model T Roadster bows & Irons. They are the squared type and have good wood bows and nice irons without any damage. I prefer not to ship them unless someone wants to pay for packing & shipping- your nickel. Located in Oswego, IL. Email, text or call Jim 630-9...

I'll second that Bob's '25 is a sweet time capsule and a car with historic integrity, if I didn't have a full garage I'd be hauling it home.

Yes, the engine always turns over without problem and has fresh oil in it. I'll start er up and see how she runs.

I highly suggest that if you choose to go with a two stage paint (Urethane+hardener) you’ll want to invest in a breathing apparatus otherwise you will harden your lungs.

For that reason, if for no other, consider a single stage enamel.

This is a longshot but does anyone have a set of top to windshield straps & buckles for a '12-'15 style top? Before I buy new I wanted to see if an extra set is lying around out there for a little less. Working on a budget.

Thanks
Jim

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