MTFCA Forum

Jerry - When you say 'they' are you referring to the Mospico or Rajo offset spindles, or all offset spindles in general? Asking as I've considered getting a set for my Speedster. Thanks!

Terry - I used the nylon washers under the bolts on the inspection pan when I rebuilt the engine on my 1919 Speedster in 2012. I also used the standard paper gasket that is included in the gasket kits from the vendors, and "The Right Stuff" as a sealant. For the first several years, I didn't notice ...

I’ll take the Wards and For Ford Cars sets.

Jonathan - I've been running an RF on my 1919 Rajo Speedster for several years now and it generally runs pretty well. Mine's in need of a rebuild, but as far as I can find, no one wants to work on these due to the materials used. I'm having an OF worked on for me now, as the RF is leaking a bit.

Good plan!

With the red and green edging, that one looks to be an original Montgomery Wards band liner. Had a set of them on my Speedster and liked how they felt. Same story though; the brake band wore much faster that the low or reverse. You can see the colored edging in the attached photo I took right after ...

When I did mine, I soldered brass wire sets onto the back of the brass script and ran the wires through the honeycomb radiator I had on the car. Worked well, but the above advice is good; use a small piece of wood for backing. Twisting the wire ends might damage fins.

I've been using the Champion A25 (aka 525) plugs with good results and no problems. Rajo head, Stromberg RF carb, bored 0.030".

Thanks for the compliment! No, it’s a basic Texas T dizzy, standard four plugs.

For what it’s worth, I have a Rajo Model 30 head with a Stromberg RF. Have never had a water pump (or circulator) and have never overheated or boiled over. That said, I just replaced a 100 year old worn out honeycomb radiator core with a new V-cell core. But even with the old core, it never overheat...

Regarding Dayton Wire Wheel Company, I had my Simplex wire wheels re-spoked, trued-up, and balanced there about 10 years ago. They did excellent work.

Pat - I run Champion A25 plugs in my Rajo Model 30 head. Gapped at 0.035" I've had good success.

Here's a few of my 1919

Norman - With all due respect, I'm not sure what the price difference between conventional and synthetic motor oil is in California, but here in NY the price of synthetic is now lower than conventional. A five quart jug of Valvoline 10W-30 conventional motor oil costs $36.49 (plus tax) on the Walmar...

Dan, I found that the new ball bearing hub that I ordered wouldn't work with the old shaft I had, so I used the old hub. Had to grind down the rivets on the front face of the hub and drill two additional mounting holes for the bolts, but I was able to get the new fan mounted on-center and the whole ...

Sounds great Donnie. Haven't seen a 4-valve running before. Regarding your crankshaft; did you install a new/upgraded crank, of is it an original? I've always been a tad concerned about adding horsepower to my engine (have a Rajo Model 30 with a Stromberg RF) with the original crank. Don't want to p...

I'll take one of the RAJO covers Mark. Email sent.

Got my WOSP starter installed (bought it here on from the Classifieds) in the Speedster! Works great. Just thinking ahead to when I might not be able to hand-crank it over (extra compression with the RAJO head). Thanks to everyone here on the forum that provided feedback, advice, and guidance throug...

I buttoned it up and just took a test drive. All good. Still need to complete the wiring on the starter, but it's installed and she ran fine.

I test fitted the starter with two gaskets (as recommended by frontyBoy in a post from May). Looks like the starter gear locates between the slingers and the ring gear, in the gap where the flywheel is laterally. I turned it over with the hand crank a dozen times and had no interference at all. Sinc...

Thanks guys, I appreciate the comments and advice. Dennis - What type of slingers do you have? I have the ones I got from Texas T Parts in 2013. Here's another shot of the flywheel with the ring gear and slingers before re-assembly. (Not a great picture, but you can see the slingers) Oil slingers 1....

I'm installing a WOSP starter on the Speedster and thought I'd check with anyone here that's installed one; Do you have oil slingers on your flywheel, and did you have any problems or interference with the WOSP starter and the slingers? If so, how did you resolve it? Here's a pic looking into the st...

At Dan's request, here's a few better pics of the Simplex wheels that I'd be interested in.

Same here. Always on the lookout for Simplex wheels and/or parts for them. Only one other T guy I know that has them. If anyone has any or buys this lot from Mark and finds any Simplex wheels or parts, I'd be very interested. Thanks. Mark - Sorry to horn-in on your ad. Hopefully this will sweeten th...

This thread was a prophetic for me. Just took the Speedster for a test run. After turning around, as I was pulling away, I heard something that sounded like broken metal. I looked back quickly and saw what I thought was a fan blade flopping to a stop on the side of the road. Sure enough, I got back ...

John - I pitched the cracked band, as you mentioned. I had purchased three refurbished bands from a vendor in anticipation of possibly replacing all three with Kevlar if I had to remove the hogshead. Next time, for sure. Not a job I want to do more than necessary.

Checking my bands a few weeks ago, I found the brake lining badly worn on the left side; the right side looked great. Brake Band Re-line 7-16-2023 (1).JPG Decided to attempt the change through the inspection cover. :shock: Getting it out wasn't bad. Once removed, I found the reason the left side was...

My 1919. Been in my family since 1927 when my grandfather was a teenager. Rajo Model 30 overhead, Stromberg RF, Simplex wheels.

I'll take it Bob. Email just sent to your address above.

Fortunately or unfortunately, depending on your own point of view, failure is one of the best teachers. I never knew anyone that did everything right the first time out of the gate. As long as we learn from the trial and error process, and don’t do irreversible damage along the way, hopefully we eve...

Thanks to both Kevins for your responses. Not sure how difficult it would be to acquire the Nash Metro brake set, but I suspect the Honda Goldwing set may be easier to find. Kevin Pharis - Did you have to modify the Goldwing brakes? Not saying that's a dealbreaker, just would like to know from someo...

Thanks again to everyone for your help and information. I kinda suspected these wheels would present this kind of problems trying to install “off the shelf” accessory brakes. With the spoke overlap, changing to later large drums isn’t an option either. Didn’t particularly want to tear the entire rea...

Thanks guys, again, all helpful information.

Support shouldn't be a problem. The Simplex hubs that attach to the drums have a V-channel that lines-up with and provides support for a corresponding flat on the wheel hub. Photos attached.

My Grandfather Don Barker in 1977 with his Foos Junior. He passed shortly after this photo was taken and I haven't seen the engine since. Family had a bit of a falling out. Wish I knew where it is now...

Payment sent via PayPal.

Thanks!

Craig - Thanks for the pics. Looks like you've added a spacer plate onto the hubs to move the wheel out to the point that the spokes don't interfere with the brake calipers, correct?

Thanks Chris. That's helpful to know as well.

Thanks Mark & Allan. Yeah, that’s what I was thinking also; the wheel hub wouldn’t allow something like RM or AC style brakes. Hydraulic brakes aren’t out of the question, but would they fit?

I have Simplex wire wheels on my 1919 Speedster, with the original small drums. I'm considering adding accessory brakes, as it currently has only the original (narrow) transmission brake band. Question: Would any of the currently available accessory brake systems fit without modification on my wheel...

Tim & Craig - Thanks for the responses and for the additional information; all helpful. The current system is the original 6v negative ground system with a Texas T distributor and coil, LED tail and headlights, and electric horn. I also have an original generator with a Fun Projects voltage regulato...

I’ll take them if still available. Email sent.

The old tailpipe had a few pinholes and rather than trying to patch them I had a local muffler shop bend a stretch of 3" pipe for me and weld in a resonator. Added a reducer between the tailpipe and the manifold and it came out great!

Thanks for the responses guys. Craig is correct; the original column bracket does interfere with the reverse pedal. My grandfather inverted the column to get the rake he wanted, also flipping the column bracket that attaches to the firewall. He fabricated an angle-iron bracket to secure the column t...

Dan, are these still available? Know it's a long-shot but I'd be interested.

Well, I'm considering putting a starter on my 1919 Speedster. I would put an original 6v on, but the steering column rake has been lowered and a 6v will not fit. The car is currently 6v, and I'd like to keep it that way. Question: Can I install a WOSP 12v starter (which would fit under the column) a...

I wish there was a chapter around here that was active. As far as I can tell, there's zero activity in the local chapter in my area (Rochester, NY). Tried contacting the head of The Fabulous Flivvers located in Bloomfield, NY but got no response. That said, if there's anyone out there in the Rochest...

I'll take them Ed. Email sent.

Got my radiator recored at a local shop in Rochester. The old honeycomb core was shot. The shop disassembled the rad, ordered a new V-cell core from a company out west, did other repair work, and reassembled it. Got it installed Thursday and took it for a run. All good! Barring possible damage due t...

When I rebuilt the Speedster body I built-in a small slot in the gas tank space behind the passenger seat. I put the registration, insurance card, and inspection sticker (NYS) in a zip-lock bag in the slot. Right next to my gas gauge (

). Haven't been pulled over yet, but if I am, I'm ready!

I found the same maker's stamp on my 1919 frame. Also found it on the hand lever pawl.

Always liked this one...

I'm running them on my 1919 racer; both headlights and the tailight. Put them in last August. All good.

Here's a link to the ones I got. A little pricey, but I like being seen when necessary:

https://www.logolites.com/products/led- ... eadlights/

Jacob - Sounds like you're well on your way to getting the TT on the road; congrats! Also, a quick note on your oil level; If it' "drips" out of the top petcock with the rear wheels jacked up, you may have it a bit overfilled. Most recommend maintaining the oil level between the petcocks when checki...

Not sure of the details on when they ceased casting dates, but mine looks like it has the casting date as 1/30/1920.

Tom - Thanks! I agree, I'm lucky to have these photos. Wish I had some from when my grandfather first had it in the late 20s. Tim - I still have family in Binghamton, but I'm actually in Fairport, NY (suburb of Rochester) with the T safely in my garage! :D If you ever get up in the area, let me know...

Two additional pics; first, the car in 1977 in our driveway in Binghamton, NY. I'm on the left (with the crutches as I had a broken leg). I was 13 years old. The next one is the car as she looks now.

My Mom visited this past weekend and brought me some photos she found while doing some spring cleaning. These are from 1954/55 when my Dad was 15/16 years old. The T is a 1919 that was originally a Touring. It was bought used outside Philly in 1927 and my grandfather and a friend turned it into a ra...

John - regarding fuel level, if it were me, I'd want to be sure to have plenty of gas in the tank to insure fuel flow to the carb (I'd probably have half a tank to be sure, but that's me). Easy way to test fuel flow; with a can under it, open the drain valve on the bottom of the bowel on the carb an...

Great to see that you got her started and running! You've got a lifetime of enjoyment with the truck to look forward to! Just a quick note; I noticed in your video the fan belt looked like it was slipping a bit and probably needs a small adjustment. Congratulations! I'll be looking forward to future...

Jason - I had the same knocking sound start on my 1919 after running the engine a few years after a rebuild. Upon inspection, I found babbitt missing on the #4 rod and cap (see photos). Although I have a three-dip pan, after removing the head, I was able to make repairs through the inspection plate....

Darin - I run a Rajo Model 30 head on my 1919 speedster. Also runs with no magneto, Texas T distributor, and a Stromberg RF carb. I've had it up to 65 mph with throttle to spare. If you do a Google search on "rajo mtfca forum" you'll get a wealth of information on Rajo heads and the experiences that...

Bob - While you have the rear end apart, you should check to be sure that the original Babbitt thrust washers have been replaced with bronze. You can do a search on this forum and after reading a few old threads, you'll be happy you checked...

My Rajo Model 30 did not come with valve rocker covers, at least according to the literature I've seen. Like Steve, I always oil it up pretty well before I fire it up. The attached PDF has some details about the various overheads that were made for Model Ts.

1. Got my Speedster inspected (NY)
2. Got the timing adjusted so I can now get her started and advance the timing before she quits on me
3. Took a friend for a ride
4. Went to a local "cruise-in" (the first in four years)
5. Installed LED headlight and tail light bulbs

Another Update: So I hadn't tried starting the T since late May. I have a rebuilt OF coming at some point in the future (hopefully in the next few months, but who knows). I had some time this morning and thought I'd try to re-diagnose. I went through the usual process to start it, and on the eight p...

Another update: I replaced the cap, rotor, condenser, and points (set at 0.015"). Coil tested good. Plenty of battery. Tested continuity on all coil and plug wires; all are good. Put it all back together and tried starting (crank only). Got it to fire and run for 2-3 seconds and quit. Got repeated f...

Thanks to all for your input. Here's a quick update: - Battery voltage is good. Checked with a load-tester and only dropped from 6.4v to 6v with a load. Still need to check other wiring connections, but I have power to the fuel pump, horn, lights, ammeter, etc. Cleaned the posts and terminals anyway...

So, after a few years in storage, I've been working on getting my 1919 Speedster running. A few items to bear in mind: - Rajo overhead Model 30 - Hand crank only - Texas T distributor with new Champion A-25 plugs - Carter fuel pump with Holley regulator set at 1.5 lbs pressure; flow test was good - ...

Thanks Tim. I've sent Bruce an email.

Hi folks. I have a Stromberg RF carb that I'd like to have checked and rebuilt if possible. I had it on my Speedster and replaced it with a Stan Howe rebuilt OS-1. Well, the OS-1 is now leaking pretty good, and I haven't been able to get her going yet. As an option, if necessary, I'd like to have th...

Search found 71 matches