MTFCA Forum

Elliptical spring conversion https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/5 ... 1454409893

I saw one of these at Hershey. (maybe this one? Not in the Lang's booth) Very interesting accessory. We couldn't figure out what the large pipe plug on the top is for. Any ideas?

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A friend of mine heard directly from Blockley that their tyres are made in Indonesia. I put a couple on my car ~300 miles ago. We'll see how they hold up.

Coker tires also available through jegs.com. They always have a "get $xx back if you spend $xxx" deal and free shipping.

I really like the copper gaskets but, when they were unavailable, I put in one of the silicone ones. (stock head) It's been 3500 miles with no issues. I'll probably go back to copper the next time the head has to come off, but I can't complain.

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I know it goes against everything the books say and everybody's best advice, but I find my car runs best with the float a bit "lower" than the spec. Never measured it, but my measurement is probably 9/32 - 5/16 instead of the 15/64 - 1/4. I also run a metal needle that I put in a drill press and pol...

For something like a radiator, I think I'd start by building a wooden crate. You can then use rigid insulating foam that you buy at Home Depot to make a "nest" for the radiator. The pink stuff. Build it up layer by layer in the crate, cutting out for the radiator as you go. Maybe put a layer of soft...

It can be (quite) difficult to get a drift in those little notches to apply the right impact to the race. In that case, the welding trick works well. I don't think it heats up the hub excessively since you are just welding short beads to the race. Just don't weld your race to the hub!

I lost the door and lens to one of my cowl lights along the road somewhere the other day. Anybody have one for sale?

That diode should work fine. The original kit came with a 6 amp diode. I burned that up pretty quickly in my car, but I think it was partly because I mounted it with heat shrink tubing around it, which acted as an insulator and caused it to overheat. I replaced it with a 10 amp diode and make a litt...

It's actually a roadster with an aftermarket rear seat accessory and a custom made top arrangement. According to the owner, the rear seat was a period accessory, but he had the top made.

I saw some unique (to me at least) Model T accessories on cars at a show today. Anybody have any info on these?

Shocks: Luggage: Wheels: Brakes (look similar to Bennetts)

It's a bit tedious, but you can rebuild them yourself if you're handy. You will need to repour the tar, and you will need a tester to set them up properly. Easiest to send them to one of the recommended rebuilders, but I'm cheap and like doing things myself.

I thought I saw an ad for Wagon Works recently, but can't find it. Did you try calling them? 515-369-two eight six five

I was at the first day's finish at the New England Air Museum in Windsor Locks, CT. Great cars!

NPT = National Pipe Tapered

You probably don't want to build your wheels with spacers, but you should be able to. You can't really see them once the wheel is built. Albany County Fasteners C916L 1/32 thick 5/8 ID 1 OD stainless steel https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/18-8-stainless-steel-900-series-an-flat-washers.html

The Harbor Freight wood dollies work fine for a Model T. I screwed a couple of pieces of 2x4 to them to better support the tires. Cheap, and sometimes on sale for 7 or 8 bucks each.

Apparently some states won't let you use refinished plates, even if they exactly match the original colors. I haven't done it, but I often thought the solution to that was to get approval for the plates first (if needed), then have them refinished. I think the chances of being stopped for having nic...

3M Adhesive Remover is good stuff

The bulb and single diode works just fine to trickle charge a battery. No need for a full rectifier. My battery is 12V and this has been working fine for several years. I did have the 6A diode that I originally got from FP overheat and burn out. I might have aggravated that as I had it enclosed in h...

Switches A, C, and D are parts of one three pole, two position switch. As mentioned, this gives you flashers when the ignition is off. If you dont want that function, you can eliminate that (those) switch(es) and run power to the flasher from the battery or the ignition switch.