MTFCA Forum

rgould1910

Here's what was done engine wise. Reground crank, newly rebabbited rods fitted with Timesaver, new Stipe cam and fitted bearings, new valves, valve job with Neway cutters, lash set at 10 thou, new rings, pistons and wrist pins, new timing gears. Crank and flywheel dynamically balanced, rods balanced...

rgould1910

Trying to figure out why my newly restored engine doesn't idle well while driving and to keep it from starving, I have to keep it reved higher than I should. I am thinking it may be an intake leak. Also the motor does not accelerate good even in the garage. It coughs and stumbles trying to rev the m...

rgould1910

I see it now. Hard to see the threads from the photo

rgould1910

Why are the bolt heads on the tooth side of the ring gear?

rgould1910

Thanks Joe for the encouraging words. I aimed for making the same relief I saw on the Snyder pistons I have. I just now noticed the rod nuts have been touching the Stipe 250 cam and the oil tube. I used slightly longer rod nuts to balance the big ends of two rods. The interference is slight however ...

rgould1910

Gasket is Ok. Taking .100" off the top corners of the pistons. Having an adjustable chuck allows centering even with the cam ground pistons.

rgould1910

Compare the position of the spark and rod ends on yours and Walts set up. Your rods extend beyond the end of the main shaft much more than his. Unless your shaft is not seated in the gear case, your column and levers are not matched to the shaft.

rgould1910

Shipping address is
Richard Gould
272 Spencer St
Folsom, CA 95630
Thank you.

rgould1910

Thanks for the thoughts fellas. Joe, come to think of it, the 20 thou OS pistons with the relief were purchased from Synders. The 80 OS were not. Agree with you Scott and Walt about re necessity of turning the engine over w/o the head gasket before final installation. Lesson learned. Actually this i...

rgould1910

Thanks for the feedback Walt. I think I'll cut a relief in the pistons. I have a set of 20 oversize that has a relief cut just above the top ring to avoid the situation I have, ie the top edge hitting the head. Can't understand why the 80 OS I am using isn't the same. Here's a photo of the 20 OS. 20...

rgould1910

On the 27 engine I rebuilt, I am running 80 thousands oversize pistons. This morning I discovered the reason for the pounding I was experiencing when I 1st started up the engine. The top circumferenceof the pistons are hitting the edges of the Riccardo head I installed. I am thinking I can remove th...

rgould1910

Second email sent.

rgould1910

I'll take it. Will send email

rgould1910

Great suggestion Kevin. I see Langs sells them but they are pricey at $62.75 apiece. Someone must have a patent on them. I don't see any others doing an internet search. I'll drive the car some and see if the short neutral range is a problem. The issue is my novice girlfriend wants to drive the car....

rgould1910

Update. I filed down the ends of the lining on a taper from the two rivets to the ends by the cam and ground off the overhang on the side seen in the photos. After readjusting the rods, the fit is better. There is a narrow range of motion on the handbrake in the neutral position before the brakes en...

rgould1910

Informative and thoughtful observations. Thank you all.

rgould1910

Here is a straight on pic. Art I also think the linings are too thick. Any way to correct this short of installing new lining? If I were to install new lining I wonder if I would run in to the same problem. ???
Apologize for the pic angle. Dont know what causes that

rgould1910

Brake cam is new from Langs

rgould1910

The lining on my rear brakes is too close to the hub inner surface. The lining may have been replaced many years ago when the car was first restored. Its not a brake rod adjustment issue. Because of the tight fit, there is not enough throw in the handbrake lever to set and release the clutch properl...

rgould1910

Looking to purchase a good car cover for a 27 roadster. The car will be garaged in California weather. Hot in the summer and moderately cool and wet in the winter. Any recommendations?

rgould1910

Thanks for the information, fellas. I'll put it to good use. Adam, I hear you loud and clear. I remember the flack about these axels a few years back. I am hoping the one I have will hold up. If not I am looking at a Perfecto tear down and axle replacement. My tooling is not accurate enough to machi...

rgould1910

I purchased a new rear axle from the supplier in Texas about 7 years ago. It was the axle that is machined the entire length. I needed that feature because it was to be used in a Perfecto. Now that the Perfect is in the car and I am installing the hubs, I see the keyway is too wide. It measures .256...

rgould1910

Thanks for the info. I was able to mount the shoes using vise grips on the springs. Quite a job!

rgould1910

Thanks for the tips gents. I finally got the job done using vise grips and a bar for leverage.

rgould1910

How do you remove and install 27 brake shoes? I can't remove the spring much less reinstall it after the shoe is fitted over the tabs and the brake cam.

rgould1910

I just puchased a new hump for the trunk deck of a 27 roadster. Had it here 2 days after ordering it. Cost less than $50. Darn glad they had it.

rgould1910

Id say $ 1000 tops. The motor went into a 1913 model year car. The head and pan are later as well. I notice the valves are recessed into the block requiting new seats. Good luck.

rgould1910

The throttle arm or lever should swing under the steering column. Perhaps the position was changed at some point. There is a predrilled hole on the carb rod so there is no adjustment unless you drill another hole. You can always bend the rod to make it fit. I am thinking either the lever was reverse...

rgould1910

Wow, thanks so much for the info. I just left a message with the seller telling him I want them!!!

rgould1910

Will purchase. Left phone message. Thank you

rgould1910

Thanks for the information. So it looks as though I have two problems. First, the diameter of the flange, being smaller than a 26-27 hub, may not support the lugs. Second there is nothing to grab with a puller to remove the hubs from the axle. This explains why the axle nuts were not snugged down wh...

rgould1910

rgould1910

I understand why someone would use an earlier rear hub and re-drill for five studs to fit a 26-27 brake hub, but I don't understand why a ring was tack welded to the threaded area of the hub. I'd appreciate any observations or comments on this modification. It certainly makes for a difficult removal...

rgould1910

Anyone ever try the glass bowl filter sold for model A's by Snyder's?

rgould1910

Thank you. Right now the piece has a felt instead of a leather washer. I'll purchase one from Langs. Thanks for the tip!

rgould1910

What are folks using for an inline gas filter on a 26-27 set up. Concerned about the close distance to the exhaust manifold if I mount a plastic filter under the shut off. Any photos would really help. Another question comes to mind. I have gas seepage at the shut off coming from the front. I wound ...

rgould1910

Just reread your comment. You could well be correct re the fan pulley. I had to cobble the fan together using parts from different fans.

rgould1910

The pulley is the alum one with ridges sold by the parts vendors. In the past, I needed a pulley with ridges when used with a water pump.

rgould1910

Update. V Belt Guys online store carries a 35 inch micro ridged fan belt that fits perfectly. Thank you Steve at Langs for the tip.

rgould1910

I'm running a water pump with a wide pulley but I have the aftermarket ridged crank pulley. Try as I might the 33 and 3/4 inch belt is a bit too small and a 36-inch is way too big I'll try an auto pats store. Thanks for the tip.

rgould1910

Need a fan belt for a 27 roadster with a water pump. Vendors sell a 33 3/4 or 36 inch fan belt. One is too small the other too big. Need about a 35 inch belt.

rgould1910

I'll take it!

rgould1910

Yes Ernie Romero is the guy who I was thinking about. He does the work for Ray Wells customers who want upholstery on their new bodies. I had a seat recovered by him and it was excellent. He also did the complete top and upholstery on the 09 body I purchased from Dan Haynes, (thank you Dan). First c...

rgould1910

I vote for a new cam and valve job. Would also look hard at the springs and lifters. If no appreciable slop in the beatings, I'd install a new Stipe 250 (stock grind) cam. All that will make a noticeable improvement in performance.

rgould1910

Thanks for the information, fellas. I did notice the pitch was more on this car than the earlier cars I ve worked on and wondered about that.

rgould1910

How much front end toe in should there be on a 27 with wire wheels?

rgould1910

Had the same problem. Car had galled OS pins. No doubt poorly manufactured. Dan McEachern provided .003" OS with the lip. Even though those in the car were also .003 OS, his pins fit tight. As the poster above observed, if you press them out gently, they don't enlarge much if any.

rgould1910

Today I purchased a front axle from a friend because the one that came on the car I am restoring had stripped threads on the passenger side lower fork hole. I sand blasted the area to clean up the kingpin holes and surfaces where are the spindle bushing flanges ride and discovered an interesting fix...

rgould1910

When you have the rear end out did you take the pinion off the drive shaft and inspect the roller bearing and thrust bearing? I've experienced broken or disintegrating bearings on two occasions with varying symptoms.

rgould1910

Bobt, if your shift lock is like a Perfecto, the shifting lever can fit into the fork one of four ways because it's a a square fit where it enters. If that's the case it's simply a matter of reversing the lever 180 degrees and changing the connecting rod to fit.

rgould1910

20190827_120512.jpg The engine transmission assembly is in the pan and I am fitting the 4th main. I have a 26 27 so I can adjust the 4th main up and down. The engine is sitting horizontal. I'm wondering if I should attempt to account for transmission sag and place the 4th main so it holds the tail ...

rgould1910

Really hard to get the studs to line up exactly with the holes in the block. Remember there are 15 to get aligned and they are a close fit. Sometimes its hard to get even the six studs aligned on an early DS spool. 15 would be a nightmare.

rgould1910

Really hard to get the studs to line up exactly with the holes in the block. Remember there are 15 to get aligned and they are a close fit. Sometimes its hard to get even the six studs aligned on an early DS spool. 15 would be a nightmare.

rgould1910

Frank, the one pictured above is the later style used after 1912 until the open spool was adopted. They are the most common type seen and go for about $40 around here.

rgould1910

Sorry for the double post.

rgould1910

Just a head's up. The ones I see on eBay have the bumps on the rear flange where the bolts pass thru. The one Michael needs is the one with the full round flange. Agree all will do the job, but if you are concerned about having the right part for the year, the 191 B pictured above is the right one.

rgould1910

Just a head's up. The ones I see on eBay have the bumps on the rear flange where the bolts pass thru. The one Michael needs is the one with the full round flange. Agree all will do the job, but if you are concerned about having the right part for the year, the 191 B pictured above is the right one.

rgould1910

on

rgould1910

Couple things. The earliest has the round rear flange without the bumps for the bolt holes and the number T191 embossed in the body. It accepts 3/8" studs. All I have seen have been redrilled at the factory(?) to accept 13/32" studs. The following spool has the round flange as above but has the numb...

rgould1910

rgould1910

I recently purchased a set of domed headbolts for my 27 project. I checked them against one original I had and they are indeed too short by a couple threads. Doesn't seem like much but the Ricardo head I am using is taller than a stock Ford high head. Combined with the shorted head bolts, there is j...

rgould1910

Finished up the engine on the 2017 Roadster.

rgould1910

Had the same problem. Brought it to a welder who welded up the missing section and tapped it for the 3/8 x 24 tpi bolt.

rgould1910

Absolutely must check for twist. That's the next step. I just now finished straightening bends. Three of the four had slight bends. The fourth was out quite a bit out. All are now within 2 thou deviation at the top land area measured one side against the other. By that I mean the max difference betw...

rgould1910

Allan, a check on things is accomplished by moving the carriage to where the piston rests against the other side of the cross slide. Since the cross slide is perpendicular to the bed and both sides are parallel, placing the piston on the other side confirms the reading you got initially. I prefer to...

rgould1910

Pretty simple. Made sure the cross slide was exactly perpendicular to the bed and the crank was centered. Used a 2 thou shim to hold the rod tight to the crank and swung the crank so the piston laid flat. Running a feeler guage along the skirt revealed any rod bend.

rgould1910

Photo

rgould1910

Photo

rgould1910

Nice work. Couple things to note. The timer housing has a snout or nose that enters into the hole of the timing gear cover that is not present in your drawing.The felt washer is placed around the nose between the rear vertical surface of the housing and the timing gear cover rather than inside the h...

rgould1910

Final assembly shows a .0025" timing gear lash. Ford Service Manual shows an acceptable lash of .0005 to .003" for new gears and builds. That figure is for using Fords steel gears. With an alum cam gear, there will be slight expansion over steel, but the swelling will be minimal. It is remarkable ho...

rgould1910

Dick, it took me about an hour all told. Includes mixing the Timesaver with motor oil and painting the mix on both gears before lapping. I did a little at a time working the crank back and forth about fifty times in each position. At the end I rotated the crank in one direction about a hundred revol...

rgould1910

Thank you, Scott.

rgould1910

I've been a huge fan of Time Saver for years. Today I found another use. Timing gears. When I got a newly babbitted block back from the rebuilder and installed the crank and cam with the timing gears installed, it was was evident the gears were too close. They were binding a bit making marks on the ...

rgould1910

If you decide to part it out, I'd be interested in the head and steering column.

rgould1910

I had two sets of NOS oversize pistons, one .025 OS the other .005 OS . I sold one set years ago but have the other set still. I paid $100 for each set, I guess Im a pretty generous guy LOL . If you're interested email me and I'll check out which I have. I may have a set of used OS, I can check that...

rgould1910

I am interested if you have a nice one. If you would, let me know what you have. Mostly interested in a tube with little if any rust pitting, a decent gear case and little wear where the steering post passes thru the base. Thank you for responding. Richard Gould rgould1910@comcast.net 916-215-5316 p...

rgould1910

Thanks for the replies fellas. Couple observations I saw after my post. The TT column doesnt come back into the passenger compartment perpendicular to the firewall. It angles toward the middle of the cab. I am thinking its a TT thing. Id have to shim it for the column to enter the opening in the das...

rgould1910

WTB 26-27 steering column. Must have gear case and quadrant, don't much care about the post, frame bracket gears or levers. Would like one without wear in the post hole in the base or rust pitting. Need to get this 27 on the road!

rgould1910

The steering column on my 27 project is toast and I want to use an earlier column. The one I have is off a TT but the column, post, levers etc look the same except for the frame bracket, the round base and the 4 to 1 gearing. I have the right frame bracket and don't mind the 4 to 1 gearing. I want t...

rgould1910

From your photos, it appears there is no lock nut to distance the radiator rod the correct amount from the firewall. There should be 2 lock nuts. One at the firewall, the other at the radiator. I dont see the one at the radiator in your photos. Setting the correct distance is simply a matter of scre...

rgould1910

Thank to all for the valuable advice. I really appreciate the input. Terry that's a beautiful car! Where on earth did you find it? Does it fit on a TT or T chassis?

rgould1910

Finishing up a mechanical rebuild and will soon be focusing on a new ignition set up. Would like opinions on who to use to rebuild coils and whether I should stick with an original timer or go with a modern electronic unit and if so, which one.

rgould1910

I had an era flying eagle radiator cap stolen off a Model A parked in front of my house. I don't leave my cars unattended anymore. If I am at a restaurant with a T, I sit next to a window .

rgould1910

The other thing that comes to mind is a disintegrating roller bearing in the ds spool.
Happened to me with similar symptoms.

rgould1910

I am surprised that no one has suggested taking wheels off and pushing each axle shaft in toward the center of the rear end. If a thrust washer has disintegrated there will be a lot of detectable movement. Not discounting something in the transmission, but the driving symptoms sure sound like skippi...

rgould1910

I have the same problem with the body I just purchased. It has a crack in the rear door caused by mishandling. Because the crack was not caused by the body twisting as when the car is driven over on uneven surface I have no problem using a wood filler. I am tempted to hunt down someone who restores ...

rgould1910

Painting wheels is a big job but worth it in the end

rgould1910

Email sent

rgould1910

Thanks for the info John.

rgould1910

Will domed pistons work with a Ricardo head ?
The head I have has not been surfaced.

rgould1910

Need a set of light weight connecting rods and caps for cores to exchange for newly babbitted rods.

rgould1910

Chevy orange it is Joe

rgould1910

Close to original color

rgould1910

Bill, Kerry is spot on about the installation of the new seats distorting the cylinder bores. If you dont want to do a rebore to a larger size you might get away with power honing the cylinders to true them up. Any macine shop can do the work. If you are running alumimun pistons you can get by if th...

rgould1910

An 1 1/4 " ball mill requires a lot of pressure to cut weld. I can't see how a drill press would work. I did the same thing using a tig welder and silicon carbide with a 1910 pan and the pressure warped the pan on a mill. I like the idea of brazing the hole. Not so tough to cut

rgould1910

You'll have difficulty removing that much weight. Triple gears came in different weights. I'd guess yours are a mix from different cars to be off that much. Most I've seen is 3 grams variation.

rgould1910

Thanks for the help. Here's the handbrake test installed with long pins thru thru the flipper to hold it in place. The spacing/fit is good but I need to set the pan in the car with the hogdhead and pedals to check for clearance. Sorry for the poor photos.

rgould1910

Thank you Dan. I thought the 26-27 hand break was different than the earlier style because of the bends I've seen. From your post I get the impression owners made the bends themselves to have more access. Is this correct?

rgould1910

I have a mid 20s handbrake lever I am restoring for use on a 27 roadster. I need to determine where the lever should be bent so that it conforms to the look of a 26-27 lever. I dont have a 27 for a pattern but I recall the lever is bent to the left after it clears the floorboards and the handle/rele...

rgould1910

I suspect the problem has to do with excess wear in the pedal shaft and probably a worn pedal cam bracket. They can both be replaced with NORS without removing the hogshead. If you can find a pedal with a better cam so much the better.

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