MTFCA Forum

rgould1910

Dont expect the 13/16 inch distance to work with a Watts clutch even with ground push ring studs. Compress the spring to 2 1/16 inches.

rgould1910

If memory serves the earliest no Made in USA heads did not have the reinforcement post near the outlet. Check with Trent Boggess re dates.

rgould1910

Bore .030 over, no cracks, new valves and seats, new lifters, reground crank , new babbitt in mains and liteweight rods, new timing gears, new valve springs, new pistons and rings,, surfaced decked, Stipe 250 cam with fitted bearings. Everything done well I can see.

rgould1910

All done correctly.
Opinions?

rgould1910

I like the idea of placing a brass shim around the shaft inside the bore combined with the felt and pipe clamp. Minimize the leak and soak it up!

rgould1910

Interesting points I hadn't considered. Thanks Wayne

rgould1910

Thanks John, if I don't have luck with the tensioner, I'll rethink. Replacing the spring is a good first step.

rgould1910

Thanks for the helpful info! As my welding/brazing skills are limited I ordered the tensioner from Texas T Parts.

rgould1910

What is the remedy when the teeth on the steering quadrant are worn and the throttle slips down while driving? Leery about using a file form new teeth.

rgould1910

Where I live its very hard to find stiff copper tubing like what ws available 15 years ago. Its all the soft stuff that easily collapses under pressure. Lately I've used the steel or brass tubing from Langs. I run an inline filter with rubber gas line connectors and a compression ring at the segimen...

rgould1910

Bill, you probably know this, but I thought the Model T vendors sold the combination speedometer/clock bracket. I didn't find it in Langs catalogue but maybe another vendor?

rgould1910

If it were mine with the repairs I'd let it go for $50. They are quite common. The fact its an early brass version of the Holley G makes it worth something

rgould1910

I'll buy the linings, Walt. I'll email you.

rgould1910

I give up. What does N/G mean?

rgould1910

Nice job on the flywheel. Those early flywheels were problematic that way.

rgould1910

I've used a late mag coil ring in a narrow pan 1910 and it fit. Just barely though. If I recall, I had to grind down a couple of rivet heads a bit. Works fine after many years. I sold Jim Starkey a 1910 flywheel and magnets a few years ago. . He may be able to help you. I have no contact info but I ...

rgould1910

Common to see 26-27 brake drum shoes out of round. I've been fortunate to find a few for my purposes that at are true. I suppose they can be trued but never tried it. I suspect you'd have to remove the liing and use heat.

rgould1910

I use roller timers and typically clean them every 100 -200 miles or so. In between I squirt a little motor into the case

rgould1910

Surprising to me that someone went to so much trouble to simulate an 11/ 12 pan.

rgould1910

I thought there was
one large rivet at the end of the drive shaft to hold the pinion

rgould1910

Unlike the earlier style, the 26-27 drive plate is captured inside the brake drum. The earlier style relied on a lip connection, not as secure. The 26-27 style in effect locks the driving plate to the brake drum. The middle bushing is not as critical as it is in the earlier style. All that said, man...

rgould1910

Thats a really nice looking job, Steve.

rgould1910

If the rebuild might sit a while I mixed STP with engine oil

rgould1910

Sorry Kim the pistons and rods have been sold. Only parts available are steering column and bracket and camshaft. I'll take 450 plus shipping for the column and bracket and $50 for the camshaft with free shipping.

rgould1910

Reply sent to Blaze.
Steering column and bracket still available
Richard Gould
rgould1910@comcast.net

rgould1910

Most parts are spoken for. Remaining parts include:
Steering column with new dash bracket
Used camshaft
Pistons and rods

rgould1910

You can turn them down if followed by ever finer filing then ever finer grades of sandpaper. Each step is done on a lathe.

rgould1910

Sorry for the double and missing photos. Unable to correct.

rgould1910

Sorry Herb the water pump sold the first day.

rgould1910

Remaining parts for sale, make offer: Rear axle tubes Front and rear cross members Used camshaft Side mount acetylene generator Intake manifold Water tube and fittings Four pistons and eight rods Steering column and new base Early 06 crankcase and main bearings with extra front cover. Photos of spec...

rgould1910

Thank you, Brian.

rgould1910

Need a starter and generator tested/rebuilt. Need icontact info.

rgould1910

I adjust coils on a Strobo Spark or whatever its called. When I have them properly adjusted, they typically make different buzzing sounds.

rgould1910

Pressure oiler is spoken for

rgould1910

Gear case and brake drum are spoken for

rgould1910

Timer, radiator, transmission frame, Stipe cam and new timing gears, all three carbs, original water tube, water pump and ujoint are spoken for.

rgould1910

rgould1910

rgould1910

rgould1910

Steering column,$500 Rear axle tubes, $50 Frame cross members, $75 Four cylinders, $200 New Stipe cam with new timing gears, $600 Original crank and cam used, $150 Transmission frame new $2500 Used Gear case and brake drum $300 Water pump assembly $75 07 Holley carb, new $700 07 Kingston carb $1000 ...

rgould1910

Recently sold a 1907 ModeL N Ford. Many extra parts for sale including new Brassworks radiator, Stipe cam, Jaehnert transmission frame, new timer. Much, much more at good prices. Price list and photos available.
Richard Gould
rgould1910@comcast.net

rgould1910

Frank, my email is not working. Please send $150 check or MO to
Richard Gould
272 Spencer St
Folsom, CA 95630.
I will cover shipping.
Thank you.
Please confirm here.

rgould1910

Thanks Mark, TRDxB2 sent you an email.

rgould1910

Unique to 1908 Model SR Fords per period price list, this original horn bracket came into my possession when I was collecting parts to complete a Model SR which I subsequently sold. I puchased the bracket on eBay for more than my $150 asking price. Price includes shipping. 20200828_132324.jpg Richar...

rgould1910

I am currently taking photos to send out. There are photos of the car when I purchased it on the Early Ford Registry website under Photos, Richard Gould's photos (47) The gallery contains photos of the car and an 08 S no longer in my possession.

rgould1910

I can be contacted for a frank and honest assessment.
Richard Gould
rgould1910@comcast.net
1-916-215-5316

rgould1910

I have an 07 Model N that I puchased some years ago but never did anything with. As I am getting on in years I want to sell it . The car hasn't run in years. It was restored many years ago, the sixties or even before I'd guess. It is complete but the hood needs replacing as it is layered in bondo. I...

rgould1910

Its not just the headgaskets! The copper clad manifold gaskets and the copper washers use what appear to be the same filler material. I had an intake leak I was unable to cure after six tries using one or the other. Finally resolved with period asbestos copper clad gaskets.

rgould1910

Just hard to believe. Had plenty of phone calls with Charley over the years. He wanted to pass on his secrets for changing a later block to a 1909 10 open valve but was disappointed when he learned I was damn near as old he was!

rgould1910

If you can't find one locally perhaps someone could transport it to you.

rgould1910

I've got a couple nice unrestored units . Will sell one or the other $750. Not really looking to sell but if you could use it no sense in keeping two. Pickup only

rgould1910

Email sent

rgould1910

Thanks for the input. I continue to work thru the vaccuum leaks. I am running a swaybuck NH carb allegedly restored but I have my doubts. I do hope it is a vaccuum leak issue and will clear up once I get that resolved. I have tried different needle and spark positions, also adjusted the float to whe...

rgould1910

When I am driving down the road and throttle down before coming to a stop, the engine rhythmically surges. Not heavy but noticeable. It doesn't do that when I increase the throttle above an idle position while still slowing down. It also doesn't do that with the car slowing down in neutral. I've not...

rgould1910

Email sent

rgould1910

Bruce the engine was finished initially in October. A total rebuild. When I ran it, I discovered the os pistons were hitting the head. I decided to remove the engine and go thru it again fearing the piston contact had bent the rods. I was right . Two of the four were bent so I realigned them. I beve...

rgould1910

I was advised to use carb cleaner and it worked. Ran the engine at high idle and sprayed where the manifold contacts the block. If there's a leak, you'll hear an obvious stumbling. Worked very well for me thanks to a suggestion from a forum member.

rgould1910

All ideas/suggestions good food for thought. I'll check for a vacuum leak before I do anything. I rebuilt the engine last year and had the car running in October. I had to pull the engine because the .080 os pistons were hitting the head and I wanted to recheck all my work. Since 2 of the rods were ...

rgould1910

Steve, I did best I could. Removed all the plugs, opened the throttle and hand cranked. I don't have a starter on the car. I went thru each cylinder 6 times to make sure I got the highest reading before moving to the next cylinder. I got readings varying between 42 and 60 psi. That may be indicative...

rgould1910

What are the symptoms of sticking valves? Unsuccessfully trying to diagnose rough idling and once smoke emanating from the throttle arm hole in the valve cover on a newly rebuilt engine. I've gone thru the coils, carburetor, timer, plugs, all the easy stuff to no avail. Car runs strong at higher rpm...

rgould1910

The cam is very easy to bend. No heat required. I used a medium size monkey wrench to straighten out the top where it rides against the bolt.

rgould1910

No problem Wayne. I am living with the frame. Everything is straight or appears straight. The doors open and close as before. The radiator fits as it should and the rod is straight. When I installed the front axle assembly, the ball of the wishbone slipped perfectly into the pan sockret without coax...

rgould1910

Thanks to all for the encouraging words! I contacted the painter and he recommended painting all the fenders. I said I'd leave it to his judgment. He comes highly recommended and I've seen his excellent work on a twenties/thirties Buick and a Model A pickup. I'm in the cue for new Rootlieb fenders b...

rgould1910

I was hit by a distracted driver a few weeks ago and thought I'd write a few words on the progress in getting this car back on the road. The insurance co totalled the car as the repair estimate I provided exceeded the $10,000 agreed coverage. They gave me a non-negotiable salvage buyback of $2800 wh...

rgould1910

On many wishbones I examined before choosing the one I have for replacement, I saw the imprint of a hex nut from wear on the bottom of each arm where the perch nut rides. From prior experience I discovered one way to smooth out the contact with the cone shaped nut is to make a copper washer to be pl...

rgould1910

Hey Phil, I may be needing a good 26-27 frame . Wayne Sheldon said you had a real good one at one time. Hope things are going well with you. After the accident I was sorry I didn't buy that good front axel you had at Auburn last year!! I'd like to come up for a visit once this virus thing subsides. ...

rgould1910

I have encountered bent front hubs. George Garrigan who rewoods T wheels in Sonora CA routinely turns the flanges to true them up. Although the rear hubs are sturdier than the fronts, I'd check them for flange run out. A light trying cut wont hurt a thing.

rgould1910

Mark you raise some interesting points. I didn't know the wishbones on 21-25 cars were different than the 26-27. I do see the earlier perches are longer above the axle than the 26-27 by about 1/4". That was a surprise to me. I thought they were all the same. The replacement pieces I am using on my c...

rgould1910

Ben' I'll take your rebuilt starter drive. Will send email.
Richard Gould

rgould1910

Update. I always enjoy someone telling me how their posted problem turned out, so here goes. I first tried to shim the loose perches in the axle. No luck. The shims refused to stay put, in one instance they tore. I decided to knurl the shafts with a knurling tool on my lathe. It turned out good and ...

rgould1910

Very cool!

rgould1910

Thanks for the input Wayne. I am doing the chassis repair myself . Eric says his body and fender man can paint the new fender and splash apron when I receive them from Rootlieb. I'm doing fine after the accident, still struggling with the insurance company. It's a nice car, I'd like to get back on t...

rgould1910

Thanks for the input fellas. Wayne, what do you think of the idea of knurling the shafts for a snug fit. If the nuts that hold the wishbone to the perches are tight, do you foresee a problem?

rgould1910

I find the front spring perches are a bit loose when inserted in the axle. perhaps .006" Both the axle and perches are replacements due to the accident I suffered a couple weeks ago. They have been sandblasted. What if anything do people do to create a tight fit? Knurl, shim, forget about it?

rgould1910

Kevin I hear you about those darn frame numbers becoming unreadable after years. of hard use.

rgould1910

Jeff, thanks for reaching out to me by email. Just as as you suggested, I will try to negotiate a reduced award and avoid a salvage title. One concern is the high dollar buy back value they presented me just today on a take it or leave it basis, $2800. That means I would have to accept less than $72...

rgould1910

Thak you all for excellent thoughts, suggestions and advice. Really! In my case the engine number doesnt match the VIN on the title document. The number on the frame is different still. I only saw that this week. I puchased the car from an estate and never thought to compare. The insurance co has al...

rgould1910

Negotiating with my ins co. Car has been totaled ($10000) due to frame, pan, front end and fender/splash apron damage. ($10,000) What is the salvage value?

rgould1910

I'm surprised no no has suggested using a small round punch ground to a narrow point on one side. Get it started on one edge of the bushing next to the backing plate. Use a small hammer and tap it down repeatedly so the point of the puch cuts a groove in the bushing . Keep tapping until the bushing ...

rgould1910

I am happy to buy your spindles, Darel.
I can send you a check or PayPal, friends and family.
Sound good?
Richard Gould

rgould1910

Contact info.
Richard Gould
rgould1910@comcast.net
916-458-8396

rgould1910

I am in need of two new Rootlieb or NOS front fenders and a drivers side splash apron for my 27 roadster involved in an accident. I ordered the pieces from Rootlieb but it will be three months before they can are delivered. They are swamped with orders due to the stay at home covid 19 cautions. I co...

rgould1910

IMHO the easiest way to align the wishbone ball is to loosen the nuts that clamp the front spring to the frame channel. With the spring loose it is easy to move the axle a small amount to where the ball aligns with the socket.

rgould1910

Scary thought. You see from the photos how far she turned me after the collision.

rgould1910

Norm, the accident happened at a residential intersection. The intersection was shaped like a T. The other driver and I were approaching each other at the intersection from each side of the T top. She had a stop sign, I didn't. She came to a stop as I was turning left to the stem of the T in front o...

rgould1910

That's funny,Tim. I wish my profession made it easier to get repairs done. Lol I had a chance to go through the car this morning and discovered that there were more things damaged than what I first thought. Specifically the pan is sprung, the front axle is bent, the spindles are bent, the radius rod...

rgould1910

Thanks for all the information and support. I was thinking about using Jeff Beaumont for repairs. I heard he moved from Atascadero to Gardnerville Nv. Does anyone know how to contact him and whether he still does repairs?

rgould1910

No injuries. Don't know why she didn't see me. She claimed she wasn't texting. She admitted liability to me on the spot and made some incriminating statements eg I was looking at nearby landscaping, but her ins co (Allstate) says I'm 35% to blame. I expect to file a claim in Small Claims court for t...

rgould1910

: IMG_6453.jpg (32.23 KiB) Viewed 3490 times

rgould1910

I was hit by a distracted driver. Serious fender and front end damage. Possible frame damage. Is there someone near Sacramento that does good body and fender repair. Be great if they did chassis repair too.

rgould1910

Mark. Good thinking. When I restored this car I tried substituting a couple extra brake shoes I had laying around. They were bent up as you say. I opted to use those in the car. The car had been restored about 50 to 60 years ago and the chassis parts looked good. I didn't see any out of round situat...

rgould1910

rgould1910

Norm. The brake rods are plenty long. I readjusted the brakes and reversed the position of the bolt that engages the handbrake cam to where the threaded end slides on the cam. Adjusting the brakes with the engine running helped getting them so they grab at the same time. Reversing the handbrake cam ...

rgould1910

Thanks Mark and John. Great ideas. I had thought about turning the drums on lathe to true them if they are out of round. I like the idea of marking the drums to determine
the high spots on the lining.

rgould1910

Norm, I'll get back with you tomorrow after I check things out. Thanks for your input.

rgould1910

Norm, I'll get back with you tomorrow after I check things out. Thanks for your input.

rgould1910

Hi John. Exactly how did you sand down the linings?
Would you have done things differently? Any suggestions appreciated.

rgould1910

Oh, I forgot to add, I already ground down the lining thickness at the ends close to the brake cam. I am using reproduction brake cams if that makes a difference.

rgould1910

I have very little throw on my hand brake lever. I think the lining is too thick. No matter how I adjust the brake rods there is a very narrow window where I achieve neutral before the rear brakes engage. If I adjust for more throw the lever won't release enough to clear the clutch cam on the shaft ...

rgould1910

The lighter colored ones have a softer engagement

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