MTFCA Forum

RGould1910

Thanks for the tips fellas. I'll check out the replacement battery suggestions and try a belt or battery strap to remove what's in there now. I know it'll be a struggle doing it solo. Might be able to con my sons in law to help. I'm pulling the engine for transmission work. The car has sat for a few...

RGould1910

Is there an easy way to remove the battery from a 27 roadster? I'm thinking about getting a running board battery box like you see on TTs to allow easier access in the future. Pro's and cons?

RGould1910

Last call $175

RGould1910

No longer available. Earliest no bump driveshaft spool intoduced in 1910 with the two piece driveshaft. Used for both 3/8" and 13/32" studs. Replaced by the no bump T 191 B. Still later by the T 191 B with bumps. All closed spools. Difficult item to find. $200 plus shipping. Contact me via email thr...

RGould1910

Email sent

RGould1910

Needed very little restoration. A new adjustment cap, new a float pin and float. See photos.

RGould1910

More photos.

RGould1910

No longer available1911 Holley 4500 carburetor. Restored and tested. These are good running carbs. I'm running one in my early 1912 roadster and it performs at least as well as the 5 Ball Kingson I ran originally. This is another I puchased as a spare. Time to thin the herd. $2000 plus shipping. Car...

RGould1910

Pretty early style. I notice ad reads Byrne Kingston. Ad says over 100,00 users. That's a clue.

RGould1910

I can only add my experience. Just as background I've owned and mechanically restored about a dozen Ts. All stock open cars. I spin balance moving parts, use alum. pistons and Stipe 250 cams. All new babbitt, timing gears, ground crank, rebuilt coils, the works. I feel ok running them at 25 - 35 mph...

RGould1910

I've made new floats for both 5 ball carbs and others using the closed cell material from Lang's without coating them. No issues to report after years of driving. I haven't had a leaking problem but still install a fuel shut off in line just in case. They're pretty easy to make on a lathe if you hav...

RGould1910

Email sent re 2 hole adjusting rod

RGould1910

Pedal ramp issue, missing a chunk of band lining, loose band adjustment??? Maybe all three.

RGould1910

The pan ears have 7 rivets. Tommy sent photos.

RGould1910

The pan ears have 7 rivets from photos Tommy sent.

RGould1910

I'am keeping emails from those expressing an interest in case the sale of the engine and other parts mentioned falls thru. So far all are pending.

RGould1910

Early 1912 engine no. 88211, complete with correct parts including head, pan, tramsnmission cover, pedals, etc. Purchased from my good friend Tommy Turner a few years back. I recently suffered a downturn putting an end to any major restorations. The assembly has never been removed from the heavy woo...

RGould1910

Mark, don't have the front bar. If I keep it, I'll get a length of bar the right diameter to mount a dial indicator. I beleive Glen had one complete I was interested in some time back, but he was asking $5000 for it. I told him my wife would kill me. He said he wouldnt tell her. LOL

RGould1910

Same press as illustrated throughout the Ford Service Manual. Smooth action, no thread wear. Local pick up. $750. Will sell stand with press only. Negotiable. Contact me by email through the website and leave your contact info Richard Gould 20260112_074942.jpg 20260112_075840.jpg 20240315_112718.jpg...

RGould1910

Seen a lot of 4th mains but never an oil cut. I don't think it's necessary but it's not a bad idea. Don't believe they came that way from the factory tho.

RGould1910

Nice story!

RGould1910

Ray those are near impossible to find If. You need to get the job done as opposed to being a tool collector, here are photos of a simple tool I made using a front spindle.

RGould1910

Yeah Steve I wondered that too. 191 is what I hoped to see. First time I saw a part no instead of a factory no on this part

RGould1910

That's an early one, Phil. Will it accept standard size studs or the only the smaller 3/8" studs?

RGould1910

Email sent

RGould1910

As a general matter. I agree with fronty boy. And Scott, I for one am getting sick and tired of your policing tactics. You've ridiculed me and others in the past. Keep your gd insulting comments to yourself!

RGould1910

I owned Holley carburetors from 1906 to 1908 and 1910 on up. Did Holley make a 1909 model?

RGould1910

Yes, I've used original headbolts. They're easier on the block threads because they will stretch a bit. Just amake sure they're in good shaper

RGould1910

Plus or minis 1 thou a few inches from the nose is about all you can expect from most any lathe. Also requres a darn good chuck.

RGould1910

Way to go, Steve!!
Keep it up!

RGould1910

Ed's right on the money about this seller. I've dealt with him before and have no complaints, hes a nice enough fellow. but be prepared to pay a whole lot. He also has a 1912 MIL body in about the same condition. I personally can't see asking so much and hanging on for the highest possible price. As...

RGould1910

My 12 is 54"

RGould1910

Such a beautiful car! Congratulations

RGould1910

Hey Steve ,contact me. I might be able to help.
Richard

RGould1910

I heard Canadian cars used 30 x 3 1/2 tires on nondemountable wheels all around, at least for some years. Your car seems to bear that out.

RGould1910

I'm unsuccessful finding a trade for my AC brakes so I am trying to figure a way to make them work. Due to misalignment in my particulat set up, I am considering
heating and bending the main part that bolts to the backing plate. Can this safely be done? I don't know if the material is cast iron.

RGould1910

Glad you're keeping it. You've been a good caretaker all these years and it would be a shame to part with it. Kinda like getting a divorce in your 90s!

RGould1910

Original AC brakes in excellent condition, complete with with all parts including equalizer and band lining Parts have been bead blasted and painted. Will need a new cable. I have the original but it is too stiff to use imho. Will trade for the only part I really need. A new 1912 gas tank, the type ...

RGould1910

Thanks for the help guys. After struggling to mount the passenger side, I see that I would have to gring down one eyelet on my cast earned radius rod and grind off a portion of a rib on my re housing for the band to correctly track the hub. I decided I'm not going to do that I'll post a 'trade for'a...

RGould1910

The earliest diff carries also had bushings inside the spider gears and the 3 spider posts were thinner. If you remove the bushings, they fit a later spider with the wider posts.

RGould1910

Early on in my T experience, I replaced the oil in my rear end with grease reading that was used originally. I noticed a decrease in power so switched back to oil. Maybe the grease I used was too stiff, but I always ran either 90 or 180 w oil since. I also worried that after the ring gear cut a path...

RGould1910

Yes. Thank you

RGould1910

Very cool!

RGould1910

I'm thinking 1913-14. Bushing in the center but not the spider arm holes.

RGould1910

Yes, thank you, Mark. I'm thinking I may not be able to find bolts with the same threads as are used on the stock set up. If not I'll use off the shelf bolts same od and turn down the heads of the pivot bolts.

RGould1910

Good point re the non-threated shank. Thank you.

RGould1910

My first time installing AC brakes. I need to know the size of the extra long mounting bolts to attach the fixed portion of the brakes to the backing plates. From limited research it seems originally only one long bolt was provided for each side. However it appears from Larry Skidmore's ad photo, tw...

RGould1910

Question. Is there a keyway in the rod to accept what appears ro be a Woodruff key?

RGould1910

Only parts of my 12 original to the car are the frame, rear spring, steering column and headlamp forks. The others are correct for the year tho. The fenders came with it but were too far gone to use.

RGould1910

Made a new float for an 11 Holley to complete the project.

RGould1910

Happy birthday Glen. You're looking good! You've got a good boy there in Mark!

RGould1910

Made a float pin for a 1911 Holley. Lost the original on the road but had another for a pattern.

RGould1910

That's a good one, all right!!

RGould1910

I don't know. The slight overhang didn't bother me. If it did, I'd veneer the plywood.

RGould1910

I've used a toilet brush attached to a pipe for RE housings Some fot torque tubes but you need a bottle brush fot the font end. Used it with paint thinner followed by a pressure wash with soap and water using a hose and spray nozzle. Worked well for me. I like Dan's suggestion using Industrial Purle...

RGould1910

I've used a toilet brush attached to a pipe. Used it with paint thinner followed by a pressure wash with soap and water using a hose and spray nozzle. Worked well for me many times. I like Dan's suggestion using Industrial Purle and hot water as a final wash. It's really good stuff!

RGould1910

Another beautiful carb Kim. I swear I still don't know how you've acquired so many rare pieces in such remarkable condition!
I spoke with Steve at Langs and he recently acquired a pot metal 1910 Holley like yours but needs a new bowl.
That's not gonna be easy to replace.

RGould1910

Andre you're correct, the balls are hidden under the top cap which is removable. I also have a 1911 Holley which is different. It has an.air valve with a single heavy weight inside an adjacent chamber.
Thanks for the help, Kim.

RGould1910

I just noticed the choke has a little wear on the lower arm where the rod would insert. The plunger arm has zero wear. Tells me the rod was attached only to the coke. This carb has such little wear overall, I would think what I see is what came from the factory.

RGould1910

I would think only one choke rod would be used. I don't like to open the hood to prime. I'll attach the rod to the plunger, tickler as you say.

RGould1910

John, I assume the plunger is for priming before cranking and the choke used if necessary while cranking. On my 1910 style Kingston 5 ball without a plunger, I remove the cap and lift the float before cranking to prime and use the choke sparingly. I agree it's usual to see both on one carb

RGould1910

I recently acquired a beautiful 1910 Holley 5 ball and getting ready to try it out. Many thanks to Kim for offering it to me. I'm interested in hearing from others who have run these carbs. How do they perform? How are they primed before starting? Any tips, suggestions, etc. appreciated. image0.jpeg

RGould1910

Although I am not a fan of pinstriping per se, I like that yours is subtle, the stripes are thin and you've kept the stripes to a minimum. Good choices!

RGould1910

The peddlers box looks like the one offered for sale a week or so ago.

RGould1910

Agree with Scott. It benefits all of us to encourage forum participation regardless of membership status. More info, more parts available etc.

RGould1910

I use a guide block for the tap too. A tap wont always follow the hole straight. A head won't work for that unless you enlarge the hole In the head. You may need a tap extention too. Its a headache to do all that, but you get a good job.

RGould1910

I'm concerned that anything short of moving engine forward would make it difficult to get a perpendicular hole drilled and tapped..Don't rely on the existing hole to align things. I've seen more than one block helicoiled without using an alignment block where the headblolts won't pass thru the head ...

RGould1910

Good advice

RGould1910

Is it a whiskey decanter? Here's mine from 1978 never opened. An unknown Santa left it in my porch last Xmas eve!

RGould1910

09 to 23 front bearing was shaped different because the front cam lobes were not lengthened as were those on later camshafts. There are examples in quite a few sources eg Fahstocks articles, parts catalogues etc. I belive the Model T manual has illustrations. There may be other changes I'm not aware...

RGould1910

One piece spindles have straight arms

RGould1910

I've replaced a small drum backing plate with a large drum but wouldn't do it again. You ruin the small backing plate by having to grind it off and have to press the new plate on, supporting the center part of the axle housing from the inside to avoid pressing against and cracking the bolt ring area...

RGould1910

I replaced an early backing plate on a Pertecto housing with a 26-27 backing plate. Very tight fit. Must be careful in your situation not to crack the housing when pressing the tube. Figure a way to support the housing from the inside so you're not pressing on the bolt ring. Also perfect alignment i...

RGould1910

Here you go.

RGould1910

A late friend used rtv to seal rivet holes on.a 12 rear end with new rivets. I did the same years ago. Kinda shade tree but no leaks.. I wouldn't braze or weld like they did in the fifties. Can warp the housings badly. I've seen it.

RGould1910

John, I wonder if you might make one as I did from a 13-14 riveted drag link. Cut off the ends, drill and ream them out, then tap them for the threaded rod. The rod is the easiest part to make.

I found the difficult part was tapping the threads straight but it was all doable.

RGould1910

Gloss black. While I agree a satin finish looks best on chassis parts, gloss is my choice for top sockets.

RGould1910

Its pretty common to see axles bent at the tapered end. I personally dont think it presents a safety issue absent other issues.

RGould1910

Just a bit of info on a 4 digit engine number. I once owned a Model N with the serial no. 1948 or 1848 dont remember exactly. There was a cloud on title so I had Calif do a DMV seach for vehicles with that number. Being so short a number, many vehicles other than cars came up with that number. They ...

RGould1910

Thanks, Bob

RGould1910

When my heirs sell my cars I ask they sell to someone who is an experienced T person. Last thing I want is my pride and joy going to someone to learn on or worse. I saw a nicely restored car sell to someone who had little knowledge or incentive to do all the stuff needed to keep these cars in good r...

RGould1910

Hi Steve. Loren Burch did the back of the front and all the MIL seat. Ernie did the front seat cushion years later. The seat cushion Loren did needed to be redone.

RGould1910

My cars upholstery based on photos of an original.
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attachment=0]20250804_081601.jpg[/attachment]

RGould1910

I was given photos of original upholstery for a 1912 comml roadster. If you like I can scan and email them to you. I used them as guides for doing my car.. Ill start a new thresad and send photos of my car. Contact me via email if you want to see photos of the original

RGould1910

Getting rumble britches cleaned up for a jaunt.

RGould1910

Sorry Anthony but you have scammed me as well. Chickens come home to roost.

RGould1910

"FORD made 15 Million Model Ts and at the present time, there are at least twice that many experts,"
That was a good one!!

RGould1910

The float material I purcased from Langs was closed cell. I rebuild a few floats using this stuff some years ago and havent had an issue. I dont know if this makes a difference but I puchased blocks of the material and made my own using originals as a guide. I never sealed them. 20230906_193949.jpg

RGould1910

My gf and I want to take a break from our work a day world and relax for a few days. Any tours coming up near Sacramento or the foothills? Im thinking the Mother Lode Club is pretty active. Perhaps a HCCA event?

RGould1910

You said
"Rebuilder claims quality of bushings may be the issue."
Reminds me of the carpenter who kept bending nails while hammering studs who camplained. "Damn Chinese nails!"

RGould1910

BTW, your top came out good from what I see.

RGould1910

I agree with you on the striping in the second photo, both as to style and color. Imho, subtle is better.

RGould1910

Hard to imagine the bushing is to blame. I'd investiate whether the nose of the pan has been bent. If it is a cocked bushing, try making your own out of solid tubing and glue it in place. Im not a fan of the split busings sold by the parts houses. You can memove the new bushing by using a torch that...

RGould1910

The only interchangeable parts are the large ball bearing and the shifter at the transmission

RGould1910

Are you talking about the shifter on the floor or the shift lock on th housing? The shifter used on what people refer to as the Hall Scott early Ruckstell is the same used on Perfectos. I dont see why any Ruckstell shifter wouldnt work. The shift locks are different. A Ruckstell will not bolt up to ...

RGould1910

Just read your other text. Marks offer beats mine. Mine wpild require a rebuild

RGould1910

If you ever come this way, you can have one for free.Will not ship, sorry.

RGould1910

Email sent

RGould1910

I dont see another hole in your top strap. You may have to punch another after settling on the position. Go slow and recheck.

RGould1910

The top needs to rock forward so the front bow is lower and closer to the windshield. Check to see if the center sockets are vertical. You may not achieve perfection with your adjustments but you can improve things.
I like the suggestion of placing the car in the hot sun first.

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