MTFCA Forum

Look like TT ?

And, this is what can happen !!!

Located on the d.s. frame between the battery carrier & the starter switch.

I believe it's the remnants of an accessory water circulator.

He stated that the coilbox wood WAS replaced with the modern stuff !

Both drain plug & rear axle filler plug take a 15/16" wrench - later "Improved" Ford's rear axle plugs used a pipe.

The new repro from Snyder's seems well made - I've installed several and no leaks !

Which T Larry ?

Agreed, Andy - kinda like torquing hot vs. cold !

O.T. - kinda - George - love your Lang's October calendar photo !

You might rethink that Frank - it's a lever extension.

Sorry Joe - must have peddled them all !

Holley G is correct - we run one on our '14 Touring - they can be finicky on float level - sending it off to Corey Walker will eliminate carb. issues !

Better send the remains off to Jeff Stevenson !!!

Bill - how come you didn't reply regarding the 10/13 block you were wanting ????????????????

I sent you some photos & prices the other day !

I'll look Joe - I might have one left !

Just did another like that, John - best in my opinion !

Thanks Scott - that is informational !

I have some good used ones - some new parts - need an ammeter too ?

This is the one I installed - https://www.ebay.com/itm/267357960608?_skw=Model+T+alternator+kit&itmmeta=01K68J7T4HA63MXDWR7PNCT4Y9&hash=item3e3fc6b9a0:g:0RQAAOSw0-5lT8V3&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1diilIdebPoalwiAj2IH2pIYACbxvAj3lCmE8r1PoGYwb0DAhN21xazo6AEUMbDonwmwYeh7Se1LLAwkmrw5HLVe...

The several "larger" floats I've ever recovered were from Vaporizer carburetors - never removed one from an NH.

I believe it was that one - it's a toy tractor (quite small) alternator - I installed one on a T buddy's '15 Runabout - turned out quite good.

There was a fella in CA. that was producing a dandy kit !

No solid copper for a RAJO O.H. that I'm aware of - I'm running the copper composite on my BB. I did have stock T solid copper head gaskets made for my '19 Centerdoor with rather large intake valves - off the shelf coppers had interference issues !

Sent you a note Vincent - I have a pair of nice script originals.

I always assumed it was dependent on body style.

It's possible someone was "drilling" out the steam holes and obviously, went a bit too deep ?

I sent you an email.

Bill Hills' old Racer ????

Is this for a model T, Harvey ?

And, your point is, Frank ?

It seems as though the major problem in "servicing" is the key cylinder - originals being potmetal, they swell & crack. The repro cylinders are hit & miss as far as operating correctly in a given switch as there were several manufacturers. Lang's carries a good replacement back piece for both pin & ...

This type ? Photo courtesy of Lang's - too early to go open the shop !

I beg to differ there, Wayne - it's exactly what it is as stamped on the face ! I have a KW Master coil. Here's a KW coilbox lock.

I might have some - I'll check tomorrow.

A good place for heavy nylon tie straps !

With the bolted trans. cover to the block indicates a late '25 & would have the wide brake drum & associated wide pedals.

If that's white Teflon tape on your sediment bulb, that's not compatible with gasoline !

First, remove the entire brake rod - if have access to a torch, heat up the clevis and let cool - it will loosen right up - same with the nut. You can also thread more of the rod, if needed with a 5/16 fine thread die.

Yes, they are somewhat correct BUT they are not exactly as the originals ! Tell Ed "Hi" from Tomaso !

Steve - if the R.M. brakes you posted the photo of above are what you have - those are Sunderlin repros - I currently have a set of both. John K. posted a photo of an original just above yours - note the "oversize" hole and the smaller hole above it which you apparently drilled a hole in the origina...

Yes, the carb. throttle lever has been bent. Post a photo of the other end.

Some time ago, the only problem was the 4 rivets were too long - if you did manage to get them on, good luck removing them !!! Last set I received were O.K.

I've sent you a couple emails, Lucas

Those are 4 to 1 - I might have a couple good ones.

That's the type I've seen - I have several Canadian fiends w/RHD cars.

On the RHD Ts I've seen, the timer is mounted upside down for the spark lead to operate correctly - nice car !

John - I have a set of both - the main bracket you are showing is an original. The Sunderland drums are cast in one piece.

C-clamp material - 3/16 x 3/4 flat stock w/rounded edges - Mc Master-Carr.

1925 & a few years earlier, window riser handles were held in place with a rather large headed slotted screw - totally different than the '26 - '27.

And, those bars were included with original Bennett Brakes For Fords !

Can't recall whose inner seals I recently ordered from, but they have a relief in the edge for the sleeve to set in - no cutting required !

Snyder's current seals show the relief ! If I remember correctly, Chaffin's began modifying those seals years ago.

Kurt - did you use the most recent seals with the relief ?

The seals have been "modified" with a reduced face area for the sleeve clearance - not shown on the seal Dan was using !

Here's what I have John - couple sets of each.

Smaller - it fits tight over the axle. Ford did supply a felt seal for inside of the housings - most of us use the modern neoprene seals inboard of the sleeve.

There are always two sides to every story !

Ben - you will soon learn that just about everyone that participates in the Forum discussions here have their own particular way of repairing or a maintenance program - choose the information wisely - not all of it is "Gospel" !

Correct order is: 1 steel washer, 1 felt (sometimes too thick), then cup.

Ask Musolf about it !

I might have some, John - I'll look.

Was previously owned by Bert Lobberecht (sp.) then Ron Kipling - both from the Greater Seattle area. Was then procured by Jarvis Erikson & then Musolf by a questionable transaction !

My apologies !

The O.P. apparently doesn't realize he's not working on a Model T - they never had the battery placed in the cabin under the floor !!!!!!!!!

And, why the hell would one do that ???????????????

You must have a MODEL A !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Post a photo, please !

If the battery is in the stock position (in the trunk), it would take a Group 1 battery but it most likely will be too low in the carrier - all the vendors carry a battery board to get it up to the correct height or close to it ! Keep it 6 volt & negative ground - musta been owned by a Model A guy !

The only "cup oiler" on a '16 would be on the spindle & tie rod bolts & they would be "manhole" which are not available that I know of - perhaps Restoration Supply might have something similar in 1/8" pipe. The shackles are all 1/8" p. "twist" oilers.

Ben - word of caution: there's usually some reason/reasons that a used gas tank becomes available. New ones are available albeit pricey, but one less worry !

The tops would be embossed with a "Model 8" in black - tail lamp would be a "Model 9". The USA model sidelamps continued with the round reflector into the late teens, I believe.

For the cost of acetylene, you'd be money & time ahead to just buy a new one !

Just install it - like Jack stated - it's a spring & it will compress just fine - I've installed many & never "adjusted" that piece !

I prefer to keep my Ts mostly stock especially the fuel delivery system although I do install a shut-off at the carburetor. The repro sediment bulbs have a decent track record - I've installed quite a few. I also use annealed 1/4" steel brake line to make my own fuel line & use neoprene gaskets. It'...

Ben - " a non-warped exhaust manifold with good threads for the pipe flange/nut" is quite difficult to locate. I'd suggest purchasing a new one - they're a decent repro but check the ports seats closely for enough surface for the ring to seal - seems there has been some quality control imperfections...

Not sure of value - reasonable offer + the ride from Washington State.

Correct, Miles - one would have to fabricate an over & under front wishbone arrangement.

Great tutorial, Dan !

You mean "low" pedal ???

Well, crap Scott - didn't pay attention !

What happened to Vince ???

Sort of Frank - "Motometer" is a brand name !

Sent you a reply, Will.

"Water temperature gauge" is just what it says - he didn't state "motometer".

It's not a motometer, Dan. Williamson's is in Arkansas.

Bummer - I was under the impression it was like ether ?

I've got a bin full of pedals - the driveshaft you might want to purchase from your favorite vendor BUT, check the fit of the u-joint on the new shaft - been fitment issues !

Here's another photo - Ed has a great suggestion !

That one, my friend has seen better days - wall hanger, perhaps ?

Ebay has a bunch !

That's a Neville "slider" although it's not for a T - it would be inverted to properly adjust the throttle & spark controls - hard to find a Model T style !

Located both parts, I believe - thanks all & MTFCA !

I'll check in my desk - might still have a pair.

I have some originals - drop me a note.

I replied to you yesterday afternoon, Dick - thanks !

To Tom Elliott - I didn't receive any photos ? I'll call you tomorrow - thanks !

Thanks Jim - those are for high heads - the repro low outlets have been on backorder for some time now !

It's your rig & it's only money - go for it !

One more time - anyone !

I replied to your email, Neal - I have a nice one here.

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