MTFCA Forum

Well, crap Scott - didn't pay attention !

What happened to Vince ???

Sort of Frank - "Motometer" is a brand name !

Sent you a reply, Will.

"Water temperature gauge" is just what it says - he didn't state "motometer".

It's not a motometer, Dan. Williamson's is in Arkansas.

Bummer - I was under the impression it was like ether ?

I've got a bin full of pedals - the driveshaft you might want to purchase from your favorite vendor BUT, check the fit of the u-joint on the new shaft - been fitment issues !

Here's another photo - Ed has a great suggestion !

That one, my friend has seen better days - wall hanger, perhaps ?

Ebay has a bunch !

That's a Neville "slider" although it's not for a T - it would be inverted to properly adjust the throttle & spark controls - hard to find a Model T style !

Located both parts, I believe - thanks all & MTFCA !

I'll check in my desk - might still have a pair.

I have some originals - drop me a note.

I replied to you yesterday afternoon, Dick - thanks !

To Tom Elliott - I didn't receive any photos ? I'll call you tomorrow - thanks !

Thanks Jim - those are for high heads - the repro low outlets have been on backorder for some time now !

It's your rig & it's only money - go for it !

One more time - anyone !

I replied to your email, Neal - I have a nice one here.

I have several closed spools - I'll dig one out & check it if you'd like - I don't have any early, no bump type. A T buddy of mine is doing up a new Timken spool kit but it's for the later open spool.

"Lastly, I replaced my Holley NH with a completely rebuilt (new) carb" - rebuilt by whom ? Not all "rebuilds" are equal. Apparently, it wasn't bench tested OR something got jarred around during shipment ? Norm has a valid point - if it's a Gross jet, you might consider what John K. stated - reach ou...

Thanks Kim - saved me a trip out to the shop with my camera !

Back to the Top !

Appear to be some type of engine compartments pans & a set of '26 - '27 hood shelves. Nice rig, by the way !

Which "Steve" Larry - Jelf or myself ?

I'm not that "thrifty", Steve !

Do what you will, Allan - a rim strip and a flap achieve different results.

Nor flaps - I'm on the waiting list !

I went through this scenario in my '14 Touring years ago - complete disassembly, drilled out all the rivets to separate the pieces, hot tanked (was still available years ago), can't recall what I used for a sealer but sealed it with some goop, used button head bolts for reassembly, Loktite the threa...

Has your timing cover been "centered" with the proper tool ?

Did Ernie do that for you, Richard ?

I'd venture to state that the rear end most likely has original or Sunderlin R.M. brakes - perhaps that is the rear anchor point & spring poking out the back ?

You can always swap out the crankcases - a few hours & gaskets !

Welcome Joshua ! Look up Scott & Stacy Hills in town - great & knowledgeable T guys ! I'm up near Tacoma & know of a couple good deals coming available. What body style suits your fancy ?

Clincher is 23" Melba - 21" is a split rim.

That's in the ballpark of my readings, Kevin !

Just did a '15 yesterday - hand cranked, jacked up, plugs out & throttle wide open - I'm hitting 70 so I'm starting to feel it too !

FYI - not all valve/handle combinations are compatible with all sediment bulbs - I have found several different lengths of tapers.

AND - it helps if someone else can hold onto the sediment bulb !

Put my name on those, please !

Thanks Erik - I'll go check the numbers - that could be the rear perch nut - I have more !

What a great family photo ! Hopefully, someone will be able to assist in your search !

For your viewing pleasure - it's approx. 20" in length.

I believe there might be 1 or 2 numbers missing - that number would be like a '09.

Yes, they did - I can post a photo later today - mine was nickel plated as are some of my other "factory" wrenches.

Allan - according to the published literature, after the first 2500 until sometime in 1912 did the flat spot at the rivet hole was in use.

Even though they might be "new" - they need to be checked & verified for proper operation prior to use - IMO ! I believe Ron Patterson just advertised some rebuilt for sale here on the Classified Ads.

Question Mike: you stated you purchased "new coils" - as in brand new from a vendor or an original rebuilt set by one of our coil rebuilders ? Reason I inquire is that "new" coils have not gotten any good reviews !

FYI - firing order is 1,2,4,3 going c.c.w. on the timer but as John mentioned, standing at the radiator, #1 is on your left & #4 is on your right.

He was asking about a "Y" carrier - mine has just has a stud - either goes into the rim tab or into one of the wire wheel holes.

Appears to be a small drum w/wires & outside brakes.

Not mine but a couple friends brought their cars in for some repair & service ! Mike's is a '15 & Scott's is a '21.

2" for the outlet - 1 & 3/4" for inlet.

First issue I see is that accessory 4th main bearing !

Norm - I beg to differ regarding pulling a head bolt to 50 lbs. HOT - I've built many a T engine & re=torque only after complete cool-down ! I wouldn't pull a T head bolt no more than 40 - 42 lbs. unless you like to Helicoil.

Anyone have any extra of the 2 needed parts ? Drop me a note through the Forum, please unless you have my email - Thanks !

Rainer - verify that the pan bolt directly under the timer has the head up top & the nut down below - when reversed, it can cause #4 to ground !

Original & Sunderlin (sp) Rocky's had 2 drums cast as one - that's how mine are !

I have several originals (steel) that appear to have been copper flashed.

Best grab Jim's, Michael - all I have left are the combo 3 & 4 dip - the long ones.

That one has seen a few miles !

My Gramps delivered groceries around Seattle through the Depression & WWII - bought the TT new in 1924 & drove it until the late 50's - I still own it !

I might Michael - I'll take a look - you are referring to the curved piece that bolts up along the front ?

I'll take that off your hands, Jeff !

My Grampa's 1924 TT rear axle nuts are both script as are most of the parts on it !

I'll - I believe I have quite a few.

The late Stan Howe also re-printed the OF manual.

What year/type - even halves ?

I believe I have a couple NOS swivels, Tim - I'll check tomorrow between grandkids duty !

Well, Crapola Ed - what a treasure !!! I thank you kindly, Sir !!!

Anyone happen to have any literature on a LF - diagrams, cut-aways, etc ?

My wife's '25 Coupe utilized the window crank handle that was retained by a rather large headed screw - I believe those were used on closed cars with crank-up windows until 1925.

My apologies - I meant "long gone" as in retired ! Erik B. would know if he's still on the planet.

John - what would the width of the saddle you need in American inches to the closest 1/16" ?

Yes, he's long gone - John Borinaukus (SP) has been remanufacturing top irons for many years.

John - enlighten me on how you came of those measurements - what measuring instrument was used ?

That's where our Stewart 160 is mounted on our '19 Centerdoor - cable is 60" w/mount in front.

BTT - price reduction to $75 a set - drop me a note through the Forum, please.

Just a "heads-up" - the starter switch installed in your photo is NOT a good reproduction - it might work a few times, but the button rivet usually comes from together & launches the button or gets stuck engaging the power - not a good scenario !

I run a BB - it's an exhaust port !

George - you seem to be confusing rim strips & flaps - rim strips protect the tube from contacting the spoke nipple base - flap protect the tube from tools.

Cheap insurance for those of us who can't mount both sides of the clincher at the same time !

Have a safe day !

I beg to disagree Keith, but those are not split rims - they're straight sided "Widow Makers" w/split ring - best left to a commercial truck tire store ! And they will take a 6:00 x 20 tire.

Marine or aeroplane ?

She relayed to me that she had multiples.

Pretty sure I have one left - black/Ford script.

Sorry Chad - that one's headed my way !

Bill Rader from California also produced a similar type - 009 & bell-crank linkage.

I have an aftermarket one - drop me a note, Gary.

Surely looks RHD, Tom - maybe our Brethren from Down Under would appreciate it ?

Mine has a cast bracket that nestles one of the lower pumpkin bolts.

Ford engines in the '26 - '27 period had two bolt bosses on the back of the block that the transmission cover bolted up to. They had a wide brake drum & wide low & brake pedals & a couple other features.

There's a statement in the Service Bulletins, Larry - I'll see if I can locate it.

Diane & I are hosting a local tour today mostly waterfront all around Gig Harbor, Fox Island & Ollala - '14 Touring ready to go !

BTT - open to offers !

Looking good there, Mark !

Chad - have you considered installing a Pertonix unit in the Bosch front plate ?

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