MTFCA Forum

Boy I wish you were closer to me Kim. I would have been all over this.

Thanks Russ!

Anyone know about the MTFCA tours location for 2025?

Where are the national tours going to be for both the MTFCA and MTFCI in 2025?

I had concerns about the fading/deterioration of the paint over time also. That is why I used the paint on the bottom of the cans. It was subjected to less sun/UV at least. Not much I could do about reversing the effects of time on the paint coating though. I sanded and polished the area on the cans...

Gary, I have a set of Boyco cans with a fare amount of paint still on them. 20240123_215008 resized.jpg I set about trying to come up with some matching paint codes. I went to a local PPG automotive paint supply company trying to come up with a best match. They first tried to read the paint with the...

Hi Billy, I could bring my Lab Scope/Strobospark setup, and I could check and set up coils for anyone that brings theirs in. Would need to get the word out to the people that are coming so they know to bring their coils with them. I have some new points I could bring with me also. Let me know if tha...

Frank, I appreciate that you took the time to post the above photos of some restored cars in Craig Beek's collection, but what I was looking for is more along the lines of period photos of T's when they were still new, photos of unrestored parts, or photos of complete unrestored cars. Restored cars,...

After spending a bit of time searching for photos of original pinstriping on unrestored parts or cars, or period photos that were of high enough quality (or even taken from the right angle) to see the original pinstriping, I decided to start this post to hopefully accomplish two things. 1. Try to co...

Anyone know someone with a T that is between serial number #1400 and #2500??

This is interesting. #1400 does not have the band support, and never did. There is no sign of it ever having the holes drilled/punched in the pan for the three rivets. IMG_20210630_161746515.jpg IMG_20210630_161814588.jpg I can't be 100% certain, at this point, that it never had the oil dam, but I c...

Something else that you guys might find interesting, #1400's pan does not have a oil dam in it and it doesn't look like it ever did. It has the rivets in it to fill the holes in the sides, but there is no sign of the oil dam ever being welded or brazed to the inside of the pan. I know they dropped t...

Thank you Kim and David for taking the time to post the photos!! This has been a big help in identifying what is correct for this pan and how it should be restored. Kim, the photos of #980's pan are of particular help to me. Interesting to see the progression with the welding around the deep tea cu...

Dave , Good to see that your pan arms are welded too. It is clear to me now that the welds on #1400 are original (but cracked :cry: ). The soldering around the petcock holes is how I would expect to see it done if they were soldered, or brazed, at all on the outside. It looks to me like the brazing...

Thanks Dave for posting! Your pan matches Kim's in those areas. Are your pan arms welded on the sides also? What do your petcock holes look like? Need to find a pan closer to #1400 to get a better idea of how they may have changed (Did they start grinding the welds down? Did they add the solder arou...

Thank you again Kim for taking the time to take and post these photos! I'm finding this quite interesting. You can see some progression from your very early pan to the pan I am working on (#1400). I was surprised to see that they started out welding the pan support arms, and all the way down the sid...

Thanks for coming to the rescue again Kim! Your photos are a big help. I do have some more questions for you though. Do you know the engine number for that pan by chance? What is the single rivet for under the ball socket on your pan? This one doesn't have that feature. IMG_20210622_212206339.jpg He...

Here is a link to the listing.

https://www.prewarcar.com/310716-very-r ... -t-towncar

That price has a period in it were a coma should be. With a coma, it comes to $45,226.07 USD. Shipping not included.

Hi Kim, I have the magnet issue solved. Jem Bowkett in England sent me an extra magnet that he had. It was a post #2500 so it was 9/16" thick. I then had it surface ground down to 1/2" and then weight matched it to the old magnet. After re-magnetizing the magnets and assembly, I then took the whole ...

Hi everyone. I am in need of some photos of the early 1909 water pump engine pan (pre-serial #2501). Not finding what I need with searches. I need to see how the brazing/welding/soldering around the deep tea cup, ball socket, pan ears, oil petcock holes and the back flange was finished (or not finis...

Hi Kim, Thanks for the information. Didn't find that one. I will get a set on order. Still have #1400 in my shop but the engine/transmission is on the way back together, finally. Up to this point my regular work load hasn't left a lot of time for that project for Leon. But now that I have just retir...

Hi Fire_chief Not looking for the brass channel that the glass directly fits into. I need the straight brass U channel that goes between the upper and lower panes of glass. IMG_20210311_171906345 resized.jpg The windshield in the photo does not have the brass channel for the glass in it like it shou...

Hi all, I am looking for a source for brass U channel to make up the pieces that go between the two pains of glass on the early brass Rands windshield. It appears it is about a 3/8" channel. Not sure of its wall thickness. What are the dimensions and wall thickness of this channel? Anyone already kn...

Terry,

I think my father (Bob Wirth) has been in contact with you about your Omnibus body. I want to say he sent you a copy of the plans that were used to construct these. If not, and you want them, let me know.

Tod Wirth

: BobBus small.jpg (74.99 KiB) Viewed 2090 times

: OmniBus1 small.jpg (71.37 KiB) Viewed 2090 times

Jeff, That is looking like the most likely solution at this point. To ALL, According the online Encyclopedia here on the MTFCA site, the The 1/2" forged magnets were used from the start of production until March of 1910 and stopped at about serial number 17,500. After that the magnet was redesigned ...

If you are talking about the issue of major yellowing or browning of the white tires, that we were running into for some years, the information that I put together indicated that the source of the problem was from one of the more common tubes that we could get at the time. My research into the probl...

Thank you for all the replies and ideas! For this car, the owner's wishes, and I support it, is to try to keep this car as original as possible. With that the idea of changing out the whole flywheel and magneto to a later one, is not the first choice. Not intending to put down anyone that has, just ...

Hal, You are near the center of the state. I am in the Village of Richfield which is about 30 minuets NW of Milwaukee. Jem, PM sent. Kim, Thanks for all the leads! None of them panned out this time, but you are the go to man for the early T's. Mark & Richard, Tried to find Jim Starkey on the MTFCA m...

Well I'm in a place I didn't want to be. I have run into a bit of a road block with this 1909 water pump engine/transmission I am doing for a very good friend of mine. I found a crack in one of the magnets on the flywheel and have been looking for a replacement. I have contacted I don't know how man...

Finally found some of the information I was looking for on an image in another thread. http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/822076/916803.html?1543334612 916823.jpg It looks like it was drawn by John Regan so I am confident it is correct. It confirms what I suspected. The brackets are in the wrong p...

IMG_20190509_130856628.jpg I am replacing my early to mid April (?) firewall on my 1912 slab side bodied touring. Looking for the correct location of the firewall to windshield bolt holes. The current firewall on the car is not original so I can't rely on it for correct dimensions (especially consi...

Thanks for the reply Kim! I am very much looking forward to meeting you in a week. Your 12 has the other type of short strap to top attachment used in 1912, where the strap is just looped around the bow and held with a buckle. It should be mentioned here, for anyone doing research on this subject, t...

John Haynes contacted me and emailed some photos of his 1912 touring to me. Thank you John for your help! The figure eight shaped top buckle loops on his car are original but were re-plated. The top straps are not original, but show the mounting location for the straps that are attached with footman...

I am looking for some close up photos of the figure eight shaped brass (or brass plated) eyelets, for the top straps, that mount to the pivot bolt on the later 1912 windshield. I would also like to get some basic dimensions. They are missing on my 1912 touring and unless someone knows of a source fo...

Early front axle and one piece spindles.
1909-1910 short neck radiator.
1909-1910 E&J 466 Headlights.
1909-1910 Brown 60 Side lights.
1909-1911 crank handle.

If the license plat wasn't there, you would see the winged script on the radiator.

Tod.

Hi Jeff. Welcome to the affliction (I mean hobby). This engine needs a valve job!! [/size] Cylinder number three exhaust valve is white (and different than the other three exhaust valves) for a reason. The head of that valve has been getting very hot. On the exhaust stoke, with the exhaust valve ope...

Thanks for the insight Pete. Wayne, I am always learning, and will be until my body temperature and room temperature are the same. I find that learning something new (be it in my profession or my hobby) is what drives me. What frustrates me is the amount of stuff I end up learning..... again. While ...

Thanks for the post Wayne. Please do not take offense, but I need to point out that there were two other body bracket bolt arrangements that I am aware of. The first was two bolts at the front bracket and two bolts at the middle bracket (just below the front edge of the rear door). Model T Prototype...

I am trying to help a friend who is looking at a 1909(?) touring. The car is an older restoration (50's?). The engine number is supposedly a 3000 number, but the photos he sent make it look like it could possibly be an 8000 number were the 8 was weakly stamped on the left side. The data plates on th...

MTFCA Forum

Search found 38 matches

Re: FS nice T transmission and early flywheels and magnets

Re: Where are the national tours in 2025?

Where are the national tours in 2025?

Re: Painting Boyco Oil Water and Gas cans

Re: Painting Boyco Oil Water and Gas cans

Re: Dairyland Tin Lizzie's Model T University

Re: Examples of early pinstriping needed

Examples of early pinstriping needed

Re: Need photos of early 1909 water pump engine pans

Re: Need photos of early 1909 water pump engine pans

Re: Need photos of early 1909 water pump engine pans

Re: Need photos of early 1909 water pump engine pans

Re: Need photos of early 1909 water pump engine pans

Re: Need photos of early 1909 water pump engine pans

Re: Need photos of early 1909 water pump engine pans

Re: Need photos of early 1909 water pump engine pans

Re: 1915 Town Car

Re: Need photos of early 1909 water pump engine pans

Need photos of early 1909 water pump engine pans

Re: 1909-1912 Rands windshield question

Re: 1909-1912 Rands windshield question

1909-1912 Rands windshield question

Re: Halloween Fun

Re: 1909 Flywheel/Magneto problems

Re: White tires

Re: 1909 Flywheel/Magneto problems

Re: 1909 Flywheel/Magneto problems

1909 Flywheel/Magneto problems

Re: 1912 Firewall Question

1912 Firewall Question

Re: 1912 Top Strap Bracket at Windshield information needed

Re: 1912 Top Strap Bracket at Windshield information needed

1912 Top Strap Bracket at Windshield information needed

Re: Old pics

Re: Found this inspecting engine

Re: Need Help Dating a 1909-1910 Touring Body

Re: Need Help Dating a 1909-1910 Touring Body

Need Help Dating a 1909-1910 Touring Body