MTFCA Forum

If you look closely at the third photo, you will see a distinct, sharp transition between the flat on the lifter and the upward chamfer on the side. That chamfer has a clean, straight face. These lifters were made that way. That is not the rounded pattern created by worn valves stems/lifters. I hav...

Steve, if it aint too late, cut the slot in it! It'll look more "natural", plus, just makes it sooo much easier with that column, you never know when you may have to take it out again down the road. Just my thoughts. Happy Easter! Did they ever have the slot from the factory, or was that a later "f...

Thanks for all the suggestions. Somebody did a partial rebuild on this before. The pistons, rings and bearings are all like new. The lifters are standard bore. I've decided to install a new set of adjustable lifters. I'm at a stopping point on this. If, after a few years, it needs more work, I will ...

Pull radiator, timing cover, head, manifolds, valve covers, valves & springs. Remove dipper cover. Rotate cam to get lifters up. Pull lifters up as far as possible, hold up with clothes pins. Pull cam. One @ a time remove/replace lifter. Good time to replace cam if desired & clean & lap valves. Wha...

How hard is it to replace the lifters with the engine in the car?

My engine was rebuilt at some point a long time ago. It has .020 over cast iron pistons. The pistons have no markings on them anywhere. My valve lifters have depressions in the tops that the valves sit in. They are all the same, and appear to be made this way. So, my questions are: How do I measure ...

The only two post I see are mine and one other suggesting taking it to a machine shop or having someone doing it and that was before you posting you found the tooling that you forgot you had to do the job. Sorry, you are right. I originally asked this question on the HCCA facebook page, and was tol...

Thank you Speedytinc. I have the tools and basic skills to do this job. Your detailed tips are exactly what I needed, not people telling me to take it to a machine shop. I will dress a stone to 60 degrees, and do it right. I will post more pics soon.

Nex question: My original firewall is slotted at the steering column hole like Brian's, but the new firewall is not, requiring me to disassemble the steering column to put it back together. Which is correct?

I'll keep working on it. I'll get it right.

I just noticed this letter B stamped in the seat riser of my 1914 touring. What is the significance?

My grinder only has 45 and 30 degree stones, so a two angle valve job it is.

I had forgotten that I acquired this machine last year from a friend. Do I need three angles, or is 45 sufficient?

The engine is not coming out. I'm just doing a ring and valve job.

My T sat for a while, and at least one of the valve seats got rusty and pitted. I have all new valves coming, and i'd like to clean up the seats also. I see various valve seat cutters on eBay used for under $100, but I'm leery. I don't want to spend $350 on a Neway tool that I'll probably never use ...

Thanks. i just placed an order for stain from Laurel Mountain Forge.

I have a new unfinished cherry veneer firewall for my 1914. I bought some spar urethane to finish it, but I am wondering if I should give it a coat or two of cherry stain first. Looking at photos of other 14s, the firewall colors are all over the place. What is "authentic?"

My body is currently all together, but it was subjected to a really bad "restoration" that included fiberglass and what looks like Bondo to patch together the wood. When I fold the top, the back door fly open because the body flexes so much, so currently the top is holding it together.

I purchased a complete wood kit for my 1914 touring, and I don't really know where to start. Are there any good references, books or web sites, that might illustrate the procedure for completely re-wooding a body?