MTFCA Forum

Hi Jev

I would entertain downsizing by one Model T as well. It's in Fort Worth.
Can message me for details

Thanks everyone. I dont have a rear tire mount the car so nothing to pull on. I am thinking now I might have to go up through the battery opening and push with something - similar to pulling on the tire mount? This one has me puzzled.

Thanks guys, tried the press down hard advice but it’s tight against the body....it has nowhere to go.

Does anybody know how to deal with a inoperative trunk lock on a 26/27 Roadster? Cant get the trunk open..... I have tried all I can think of without causing damage.

I will be going to this, Very happy to see this take place - Randy from Fort Worth

I know the paint code for 1927 gunmetal blue for PPG is IM436 and Dupont is DS151. I am having trouble with my paint store as they dont have a formula for PPG (DBC, OMNI or OMNI PLUS) to be able to mix it. Does anyone have information on these formulas?

Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks

Randy

Steve,

I did one just for the experience and it was a good experience. I may have tape left (3M Glass Cloth tape) for the coil wrapping and Kapton tape used to insulate between the wires. I will will give it to you if I still have it. Will check on that tonight.

Randy

Thanks everyone. I saw quite a few issues with the red one. If the black one is CG they did a much better job of that one. These days, sometimes you have to study a photo real close......

Does anyone happen to know what the story is with this? If there is one.....

Sorry....had the numbers mixed up in my head. Actually a higher price

Heres one with the roadster body and steel bed for close to the same price.

https://loz.craigslist.org/atq/d/rocky- ... 43852.html

Thanks Jb!

Thanks Mark but the armature is all the way back against that brush plate bushing that’s why I’m wondering if I should shorten or shave down that bushing.

Thanks Mark but the armature is all the way back against that brush plate bushing that’s why I’m wondering if I should shorten or shave down that bushing.

Has anyone else found that after replacing the Babbitt bushing in the brush end plate with one of the suppliers new brass bushings that the brass bushing holds the armature further away and the brushes don’t completely line up with the commutators? Picture below to further explain. Is this bushing s...

Sounds good Hank. I hope that does it. You are always helpful, thank you

Thank you everyone for your assistance. I figured out why finding neutral was a moving target, the clutch spring is weak and not returning to the same place each time. Had to add an external spring for now. All is working correctly between low and high now. New issue - reverse pedal seems to be in t...

Seems that most of the 26/27 window regulators I have seen are for Coupes/Tudors and are the three bolt mounting type. My 27 Fordor is a four bolt mount type. Does anyone know if this four bolt type carried over to the Model A? Having a rough time finding the correct regulators.

Norm, Scott, Hank,

Thank you for the info. When I replaced the Hogs Head, I replace all of the cams/notches and all new pedal shafts. I was not moving when the magneto let loose so there was no sudden stop.

Randy

I have also found one of the rear hubs loose and the shim was ground up. The car will rock forward and back when parked. Possibly the trust washers worn away allowing the drive shaft to move?

Hank, I was able to get neutral but how good of a neutral it is changes every time I take it for a drive. Seems to be a moving target..... I do need to cut a little bit more floor board out but the handbrake is nearly all the way forward. The ramp is definitely not touching the adjustment bolt.

Update: I have the engine/transmission put together and back in the car after the magneto had come apart sending parts and pieces through the hogs head. Once back together the bands were all adjusted but I have been having issues with the linkage between the low pedal and the main clutch shaft. On o...

Thanks everyone. I’m glad to hear that this issue wouldn’t cause the u-joint pin issue. Couldn’t think of how it would but it concerned me. Hopefully this week I can make time to clean up and inspect the engine and other parts for any damage. I will post any pics of issues I find. Hopefully it will ...

I read a few older posts on this and I see where the exact cause is unknown as to why this happens. Possibly a cracked magnet or a failed brass screw. In the case of my 27 Fordor, I heard a ping almost as if a rock had kicked up and hit the exhaust pipe and then it felt as if I was having a fuel sta...

Really.... thanks. Good to know. Will certainly take care of it.

I picked both of these at the same time. I know the one is for pressing the wheel bearing races in place into the front hubs. I think those who said the first tool is for drive shaft bushing removal are on to something. The cone fits into the U-joint ball real well. Thank everyone

Ahh....that makes sense. I couldn’t picture in m mind what this would be for. Thank you, I think you are right!

This tool is marked “Truth”. It came with a Truth “model T front bearing race press” I purchased. It looks like it’s for a bearing race because of the taper but the bearing race would be close to 3” in diameter. The 2 pieces on the one end are spring loaded and can both be pushed into the diameter o...

Steve, thank you. KiethG, it was very intimidating but I knew I just had to jump in with both feet. This is a kit from Cartouche - they did make some mistakes, I had to take the passenger front cushion to a local upholstery shop to have the sewing fixed. The headliner was the most difficult but I di...

Completed the interior in my 1927 Fordor.