MTFCA Forum

perry kete wrote: ↑
Thu Feb 25, 2021 6:39 am
Here is a picture of a period correct "Heater" as they were known.

tommy gun 2.jpg

These were also known as a "Chicago Piano"

Sorry for going radio silent. I'm good on all fronts. Thanks

I’ve blown one in December in the rain Also blew one at the gas station. THAT was heart-stopping.

I got the Nov/Dec 2020 issue in the mail today.

However, it was the copy I emailed asking them to send because I didn’t get my membership issue.

I still haven’t gotten that one. IF and when it comes, if someone needs it, please let me know and I will toss it your way.

It is now the 30th of January 2021, and I have yet to receive my final copy of the Vintage Ford for 2020. I have the insert from the previous Sept/October issue that states my membership expires on 12/31/20 I want to know where my magazine is. If the Editor of the publication can contact me and expl...

Today is the 25th of January. I’ve still not received the Nov/dec issue of 2020.

Will double check your membership, I just ran into this with my V8 renewal. I spaced my renewal that was due in October and did not get my Nov/Dec V8 times. I will now be renewing for the three years, and paying closer attention. It happens, let us know how you make out. If memory serves, my member...

I have not received my Nov/December 2020 issue of the Vintage Ford magazine.

It is now the 21st of January 2021.

Please send ASAP

Thank you.

https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18388 I don't understand the 10% "buyer's premium". It just cuts down what I'm willing to bid. That's because you're a reasonable person. I have been attending antique phonograph auctions for over 30 years, all by the same auction house. Just a few y...

How about a couple of weeks then?

Anybody got one I can borrow for a couple of months?

Been so long since I did one, I'll need practice

Punch back to the top

Have not received yet in NJ

There is an auction on February 12th, 2021 at 11:15 am. It will be at 17080 SW Purity Springs Rd I’ve seen video of the property. There are at least 6 unrestored but needing restoration Model T Fords there: several tourings, a TT truck, a couple of coupes, a couple of sedans, sheet metal, wooden bod...

I have picked locks successfully with paper clips.

Flate Rate doesn't include the box as part of the price. You can go in the PO and abscond with EVERY flat rate box they own, and store stuff at home with them. Or you can order them for FREE from USPS.com

A flat rate box to ship that is about the size of a video cassette. It costs, I believe, $ 8.30 At least it does at my post office

I bought one from Snyders about two months ago, maybe three....for a 1922 (Starter) car. They had them.

Pocatello Electric is now in a corner building at 258 N. Main Street. The part of the building it occupies in the above picture is no longer there. A. B. Bean Hardware Company is next door. A. B. Bean was mayor of Pocatello in 1894 and I believe again in 1899. The first mayor was Edward Stein, grand...

I replaced a rear spring assembly because the top leaf had snapped in half.

Dan B wrote: ↑
Tue Dec 15, 2020 4:35 pm
Here is what I started with and how it turned out 13 years later.

3728B391-6167-47EE-BD2A-D89A5745E4BA.jpeg

BA88314D-C74C-4CFE-B2BC-39F10F9250CA.jpeg

B4FAD9FF-8EFD-432A-929C-F3AA302537D7.jpeg

Mine started out worse than that. Took me 13 years also.

Tweaked some cheapo wood to make patterns for Centerdoor roof rail assemblies. The only roof rails you can get are commercially made in a kit. I have the kit which came with the body I’m restoring in my basement. However, the kit rails are not made entirely accurate These are rough but are the same ...

And that’s only on the improved cars from 26-27. Earlier tourings and roadsters used buttons if I recall correctly

William, Thanks for posting! Very nice work! Amazing that you bought it for $500 plus $1500 to restore. My father attended an auction as a teenager and saw the auction people pull a Hack out of a barn. A guy bought it for 300 bucks and was driving it a week later. When did your dad see the $300 Hac...

William, I would love to see the before and after. Matt Oddly, I took very few pictures of the car when I was purchasing it. I think I did an initial video of the car, but since I do not have a video capture device to transfer to computer, that's out. I did document the building of the car, but tha...

You'll want to save that T round molding as an exact match is not manufactured. Restoration Supply Company has one that's close.

The rounded over molding strips are spot welded to either the quarters or to the panel itself (i cannot remember which and the metal piece in the bottom is spot welded to the panel as well.

There are also bolts that hold the quarters and that panel together. You can see that here in this picture

Frank, You are correct shipping is getting expensive. For most parts I plan to source local parts. William, Thanks for sharing your stories! When did you buy your $500 touring? I almost wonder if prices haven't changed much over the years for project car Ts. I like the idea of a $300 Hack! Donnie, ...

My father attended an auction as a teenager and saw the auction people pull a Hack out of a barn. A guy bought it for 300 bucks and was driving it a week later.

My Touring was purchased with $500 dollars down and 150 bucks per month. The guy I bought it from held it until paid for. (a chassis, partial body and extra motor). I was given opportunity to swap out parts from him. 13 years later, working in my spare time, I had a running driving car. Fast forward...

jiminbartow wrote: ↑
Thu Dec 03, 2020 12:13 am
With the type of T’s in his profile pictures, I was under the assumption he was after a black finish on his firewalls. Jim Patrick.

You assumed correctly

I sent you a private message.

If it makes you feel any better, it’s still rusty on the underside you can’t see.

If you have a fiver, it’s yours. That should cover the piece, and postage to you.

I’ve got just one. Right in my hot, little hand.

My dog wouldn't stay and help.

He got out one night and was a quarter mile from my house. Someone was driving around in the neighborhood and heard me calling for the dog.

He had me call a phone number to verify, and yes, his wife had my dog.

Did I mention the dog is DEAF????

It's all good. LOL

I guess webinars are dead

Will, I didn't say it wasn't in the service book, I said that I was not seeing it, as for calling you stupid, that would only apply to you if you are considering that removing the starter in that manor was a good idea! or recommend it to some one, as for a face to face debate on the topic, sure jus...

IM WITH --U-- WILL--LETUM NOT PULL THE BENDIX LET--UM--FERGIT TO TAKE THE KEY WAY AFTER THEY WRECK THE MAG COIL,TRYING TO WIGGLE THE BOLT HEADS AROUND AND AFTER ALL THAT FIXIN THERE WAY, THAT KEY THAT THEY FERGOT WILL DESTROY THE TRANSMISSION --WHEN IT DROPS IN AND STICKS TO A MAGNET..THEN FLINGS O...

I said the book showed a way to remove it as a whole unit. Sick and tired of people saying there is no way to do it other than remove the bendix. It was not my intent to tell him to remove it one way or the other... but for you people to just sit here and say that the book doesn’t say but to do it o...

Again... it can be done. Do I recommend it? No, I do not.

But....it CAN be done.

I am not incorrect in what I said....

If you read paragraph 513 in the FORD SERVICE MANUAL, you can actually remove the starter and bendix as a COMPLETE UNIT.

I've actually read the book from cover to cover, so I knew it was in there.

The Ford Service Manual shows how to remove the starter from the car without removing the bendix at all.

It’s a low cowl car.

Thank you. You have confirmed what I suspected all along. There is nothing for the top of the kick panel to attach to. It only attaches in three places: Pillar, Floorboard riser assembly and the cowl frame assembly. I also confirmed this two days ago when I assembled my original wood and replicated ...

who makes that gasket?

This is mine: The boy is taller than I am now. In the first picture, he is 7. The second picture, he is 17

What kind of sealant would anyone recommend to put on a wooden firewall before painting it?

Punching this back up, so if you didn't see it, you can now. While it's not an in depth description, IF I come across information that pertains to the car that would be beneficial to others, I will post it.

I started a blog website showing the restoration of my 1922 or 23 Center Door Sedan.

https://army30th.wixsite.com/centerdoor

It is a work in progress, and all of the posts are today even though some of the work was done over 8 months ago.

Check it out.

Never noticed a difference before.

Driveshaft housing on my current touring is a tapered tube.

Driveshaft housing on my bare chassis is "stepped".

Why the difference?

Mark Gregush wrote: ↑
Fri Nov 13, 2020 6:10 pm
The APCO came with good adjuster. I have seen some other brands that were pot metal, real buggers to get out.

Yes, you are so correct. I have an extra one with no hope of ever getting the adjuster out of it.

My soon to be Centerdoor chassis came with accessory APCO ball connections.

So did my current touring chassis.

The only items I replaced is the spring, cup and cotter pin. The screw adjustment is original and in perfect condition

I went the alternator route when I finished the car in 2011 but it never worked correctly. I eventually sold it

Mark Gregush wrote: ↑
Mon Nov 09, 2020 2:05 am
How old is the battery and have you had it load tested? Could be the battery just needs replacing.

Battery is probably in need of changing out

I believe Pat was George’s apprentice. I know nothing further about George other than a friend of mine had an engine done by him about 10 years ago.

George’s business was bought out. It’s known now as Pat’s Restoration Services, LLC. Patrick Musante is the owner

I’ll have to guess as to what it might be. There is nothing in the wood drawings in the body parts books that even remotely shows anything. I have the wood on the side of the floorboard riser but there is nothing showing any imprint of having been attached to the interior front cowl wood that would ...

Ok, tried it Either I didn’t make the contact surfaces clean enough or something else is going on. I attached a #12 solid copper core wire from between the ground strap/frame to a bolt in the the universal joint I drove the car with the lights on. I still have power loss. I’m going to scrounge up th...

Henry K. Lee wrote: ↑
Sat Nov 07, 2020 8:04 pm
Check for a bad ground or better yet, attach a ground wire from the frame to the engine block.

Hope this Helps,

Hank

Can you explain in more detail?

How is your generator running? Your voltage drop increases with speed as the coils are buzzing more frequently and it is drawing current to run the points. It appears that you might be drawing down the battery at a greater rate than the generator output. Norm It appears to run fine. I start the car...

Does the T screwdriver have a steel hex cap set into the end of the wood handle? The driver I have looks like the T driver in the pic, has a wood handle with steel hex end and it's a solid part of the square driver shaft. This seems to be a good feature for sensing the spark voltage when using the ...

What is inside the cowl area between the firewall and the windshield pillar to attach the inner upholstery panel to?

I'm specifically referring to the area where the dashboard is to the rear of the firewall that you would attach to.

Driving the car during the day, everything is fine.

Drive the car with the lights on and it is significantly different. It loses power.

I am currently only running on battery. I know the Mag needs to be charged. It quit a couple of years go.

Diagnose my problem. And......GO!

Joe Bell wrote: ↑
Tue Nov 03, 2020 4:56 pm
That one looks like the one I hauled to hershey last year for a friend to find a new home.

I got it from a HUGE vendor of tools in the area before you cross the overhead walkway.

Yes I know. They are similar, however

One I got from an acquaintance of mine.

The other I got at Hershey last year.

A steering gear is on the way. Thanks much!

Replied to your email!

Small ear

Looking for a quick change band ear, round tabs. No cracks

What have you?

I am looking for ONE 12 tooth steering gear. Of the three I have, one is wobbled out in the center.

What do you have??

Thanks much

sounds interesting....

Roffe wrote: ↑
Thu Oct 22, 2020 4:16 am
What a talented guy. So interesting to see how he forms the sheetmetal. A real artist. Very impressive. Can only find part one and two on youtube, is there more or is this as far as the project has come until today ?

These are the only two he's done so far.

Title says it all....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00z6xB-hH-A

I'd be willing to wager that you'll never see them again.

That guy just found out the car is full of termites

William, I neglected to describe removing the donor piece from its column. If you wire buff the tabs it should reveal the dimples of the spot welds. If you drill these dimples, the channel will come off with the holes needed for mig welding through. It would be difficult to just break the spot weld...

My column will only have the horn wires in it as the other wiring goes straight to the dash. This is for a Center Door.

it's going to be on a 22. I have no idea what year the column is other than it has a round neck where it attaches to the firewall instead of the square neck of the 26-27 ones.

The tube is the same on the 26 one as it is on my 24-25.

William, on our Canadian sourced cars, only the early ones had a tube. Subsequent columns had a U shaped channel, in two different sizes. The tube and the U shape channels attached differently. Solder is your friend for either type. Welding/brazing on such thin material requires greater skill than ...

Looking for a simple answer to a complex problem. I have a steering column that is practically immaculate except it doesn't have a horn wire tube. I have a crappy column with a fairly good horn wire tube on it. I would like to remove the tube and place it on my other column. Is this doable, and how ...

My local T friend and I redid the valves in my T. It had been running rough ever since I broke a valve head last year. I replaced some valves but didn’t get enough clearance Number 1 was 55 pounds, number 2 was 25, Number 3 was 25 and number 4 was ZERO. Unbelievably, the car ran and drove...warped t...

And further, the place was actually IN Coopersville, Michigan. Here's an advertisement for it..

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/ ... 1827443231

Luther Mulder was born in May 1889 and died in Coopersville, MI on August 21st, 1954

There was also a Luther Mulder born in July 1917, and died in Coopersville, MI on September 2, 1997

So you know Mulder Motor Sales existed at least during WW2.

I found where there was an advertisement for Mulder Motor Sales Inc. in the Coopersville High School year book from 1944.

Ok a barn shot from Sunday and one from today

Your PM was answered. Thanks

The Hand Brake is installed and works. I heated the offending mounting brackets with MAPP Gas and doused them with a garden hose. Bingo!

That will break up the rust that currently keeps it from moving?

The cross shaft will not rotate in the mounting brackets. How do you loosen them so it will? RUST

Chevy produced the Series 490 automobile from 1915 to 1922. The 490 chassis was a huge success and became the brand’s main seller. It took big chunks out of the Model T’s market and provided enough revenue to allow Chevy co-founder Billy Durant to buy shares of GM stock. Eventually, Durant merged Ch...

Well, that was easy to figure out.

The brake lever cam on my running car is 3 inches tall. The cam on the bare frame with just an engine is FOUR inches tall.

It's never gonna work. LOL

I do not know if that's the case. Both sets of bolt holes line up to my frame. So I am not entirely sure. Also the hand brake I have has a funky jog in the pawl release rod.

It says it was used to store glass and trim.

What is the correct position for the clutch lever in relation to the fork? An engine I am working on is in a frame that did not have a hand brake on it, and I cannot bolt the hand brake up to the frame. It seems the cam for the adjustment bolt sits too high. I've removed the hand brake from my runni...

EEC countries which are now called EU (European Union, since 1993) are Belgium, France, Germany/West Germany, Italy, Luxembourg, Netherlands, Denmark, Ireland, United Kingdom, Greece, Portugal, and Spain.

Self-Quarantining is "Advised" but is completely voluntary. Consistent with CDC guidance, Virginia currently does NOT have any quarantine requirements for people arriving in the Commonwealth from other U.S. or international locations, as of August 13, 2020. Pennsylvania's list of "Skull and Cross Bo...

that's really nice. Nicer than the two I have

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