MTFCA Forum

I looked closely at the 1916 firewall I have, and using a micrometer measured the outer plys and core. The core measured .55 in. and the outer plys were both .077. That adds up to .704 inches, which of course would be too thick, so I assume the parts I measured are slightly swelled.However, this giv...

Try to find some baltic birch plywood, as it is much stronger due to it's multiple core build up. It is also usually thinner than the regular plywoods, and I have sometimes found it at 11/16 thick, or slightly over.

Thanks to all for the informative replays ,I have a box that is too narrow to accommodate the newer coils and I don't have the original coils, has anyone re-configured the KW coils to fit in the smaller box ? I' d be interested in buying the early coils -if anyone has any they would part with ; the...

Baltic birch is what you want. Many plies, very solid and dense. Not that pretty but gets painted black anyway. It is usually sold in 60" x 60' pieces, and the "3/4" inch sheets are sometimes close to 11/16" thick. The plies are thick enough so you can reduce the thickness a. little with a wide belt...

I used metal stemmed tubes and flaps when I put my tires on. The tubes were new ones and the stems were vulcanized to the tubes. I installed a bridge washer over the flap after sticking the stem through the hole in the flap. So, the bridge washer holds the flap down on the tube. My thought here was ...

I truly think that the cherry firewalls were hosed down with a heavily pigmented stain, almost like a paint, then brushed and let dry before they were coated with shellac. It would have been an easy way to get consistent looking finishes on the. firewalls. I have this original 1913 firewall that I r...

In my experience the oak plywood is easier to stain and finish than birch or cherry, which is more prone to showing blotchy areas when stained. So oak is a good pick. If I were you I would definitely do some testing on the scraps you have, following the directions for both the stain and the varnish....

It seems to me that when hand cranking and priming the engine before starting, you would want to have a fresh intake of gas mixture in each cylinder, and therefore should give the crank four upward pulls while pulling out the choke wire. If you only give two pulls while choked, wouldn't that mean th...

I notched a lot of Brass moldings when I was selling them way back when. I used a metal miter tool like this.

I didn't know there was a gallery til you mentioned it. Just put my Depot Hack on there.

so, if the rear seems to bind, jack up both rear wheels and check for end play. If you can move them in and out one eight inch, that is way too much. Actually a sixteenth inch is more than it should be. It sounds like when you make a right turn one of the axels moves so far inward that the hub bolt ...

Barry. "Back to the low pedal and band. How do I get the pedal to go down part way before traveling towards the center line of car?" When you are doing this check, you need to have the car in high gear with the hand brake lever forward. So with the low pedal as far back as possible before you push i...

I was making firewalls for some of the parts suppliers up until 2016. The 1915-16 firewall required a couple of separate router passes with different bits to get the correct edge shape so it would fit into the hood former properly. The other issue was the thickness. They had to be 11/16 inches thick...

I bought these a couple of years ago because I have a !3 T.

Mine was. My dad gave me a 1918 chassis when I was 15. Got it running, made a seat, and I was off.

If it is just gas from last season, I drain it all from the T and then pour it into my wife's car, a gallon or two at a time. So far she always comes home.

Dick, Yes the sides were steel over a wooden framework, and thebvbody curved in at the bottom. The rear doors had the same curve at the bottom.The Ford Delivery Car bodies did not have side windows.