MTFCA Forum

MN_Ford_Fan

Pretty much what I figured. Just make an appropriate rod with a jog to go around the coil box and you're golden. Yep, looks like that would be the easiest/cheapest method. The homemade rod for my vaporizer looks like it will be long enough to modify for the NH possibly. And now that I know it's not...

MN_Ford_Fan

the 2nd hole is if you have a pre '25 carb with a longer throttle lever the throttle rod is short because (it looks like) you have a home-made throttle lever possibly welded in an incorrect position on your column's throttle lever rod. At least that's what it looks like. I think you are correct now...

MN_Ford_Fan

I have found a few posts on this topic, but no clear answer to the problem. I am installing Lang's NH conversion kit and it appears the over-the-top throttle linkage is too short. Because this issue has came up before, I am surprised this hasn't been addressed by Lang's in the instructions. I can't ...

MN_Ford_Fan

I assume this is not a hi performance motor. I also assume grinding the seats lower is not a good option for you. (thats how its done) You are correct, it's not meant to be high-performance. Just want a solid runner that I can depend on. Grinding the seats is not a great option simply because I don...

MN_Ford_Fan

Not at all. You got lucky. Murphy must be laid up with the covid. Well it's making me nervous that I'm messing it up, lol. Plus I spent like 4 hours setting up a perpendicular grinding base at my bench grinder and I'm anxious to put it to use! As I finish the last 4, If I come across another one th...

MN_Ford_Fan

So this is a little unexpected. I am in process of installing the new valves from Langs. The hardened seats look so good I decided to just lap each valve lightly as I go to confirm seat engagement. I have four done and two have had .015" of clearance right out of the package. One I had to grind off ...

MN_Ford_Fan

My brake rods measure 53" from the center of the front clevis pin to the center of the rear clevis pin. Thank you for verifying that. I measured mine from end to end and it was actually like 54.5 so I think we pretty much have the same length brake rods. With my lever all the way forward, I get zer...

MN_Ford_Fan

Ok, so I have new SS Valves to replace the 2-piece valves that were in it. Should I do anything with these hardened seats? What is the best tool to freshen them up in the car? Neways?

If the seats leave a fairly decent pattern on the new valves as-is should I avoid messing with the seats altogether?

MN_Ford_Fan

I'd leave them alone until you have a chance to drive the car. The car drives good. I have had it for a few years, just have never been able to push it around easily, that is why I am monkeying with the low speed pedal, brake lever, and brakes. I have the head off the motor and am doing a valve job...

MN_Ford_Fan

The backing plate levers on my car (26-27 roadster) are in exactly the same position as the ones in your picture with the hand brake lever pulled back hard. At the same time, the hand brake lever is about 5" ahead of the seat cushion. Maybe using the cushion is not the best reference point. My cush...

MN_Ford_Fan

With the hand brake lever all the way forward on my car, the backing plate levers are at about 10 o'clock. With the brakes full on, they are close to 12 o'clock. That is about right with mine as well. When you say "close to 12:00 o'clock", is it past 12 or before 12? I think my drums might be full ...

MN_Ford_Fan

John kuehn wrote: ↑
Sat Jan 22, 2022 8:49 pm
Since you don’t have the stock or original Model T transmission or brake set up that I can tell, setting your neutral may be different then the one shown in the manual.

I'm not positive but I am pretty sure it is all stock and original for a '26. What are you seeing that says different?

MN_Ford_Fan

Can you take a picture of the levers and rods on the backing plates with the brake hand lever pulled back hard? Here are 3 pics. 1. Lever position when pulled back as far as possible. As I have it set, the wheels are pretty much locked at this position (when tested by hand with wheels off ground). ...

MN_Ford_Fan

Is it pretty obvious when your T has had seat inserts installed? Below are a few pictures of my valve seats. Seems to be an excessive amount of concentric circles around most of the valves. Are these inserts? If so, are all inserts hardened? seat 5.jpg seat 4.jpg seat 3.jpg seat 2.jpg seat 1.jpg

MN_Ford_Fan

Can't seem to make no progress, lol. Wanted to check the drums/shoes, started with the driver's side, I don't think this wheel has ever been off! My largest puller grabbing 3/8" thick metal plates placed behind the spokes. Torqued down and pounded on repeatedly. Also thrown heat and penetrating oil ...

MN_Ford_Fan

If your 26 has the correct large drum rear axel the brake rods should be the straight ones with out the offset crossing over the radius rod of the 25 and earlier small drum real axel rods. The drums measure 11" in diameter. The brake rods are nice and straight and measure approx. 55" long. I'm thin...

MN_Ford_Fan

I guess maybe a better question would be, how much drag should I expect on the rear wheels with the break handle in neutral? I don't see how it could be free-wheeling since the brake rods have been pulled approximately half their travel.

MN_Ford_Fan

So I've been messing with this today for a few hours trying to get the rear brakes set best as possible. I adjusted the brake rods so that the wheels lock up (car raised, can't turn wheels by hand) with the brake lever release handle about an inch from the seat. I then release the brake lever and pu...

MN_Ford_Fan

I'm thinking I need to pull apart the rear drums to see what's going on in there. Any tips?

MN_Ford_Fan

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑
Thu Jan 20, 2022 8:17 pm
4 isn't enough. You should be able to get a full thread engagment of the rod in the yoke.

I agree it is not ideal. Should the rear brake control rods reach the brake lever without any actuation or movement of the arms on the rear brake drums?

MN_Ford_Fan

I am assuming you mean that there are threads still visible exiting the "body" of the yoke, between the yoke forks? No, the yoke is only turned on to the threaded rod by 4 full threads. I took the yokes completely off and then put them back on using 4 full turns thinking that was the minimum thread...

MN_Ford_Fan

I am assuming you mean that there are threads still visible exiting the "body" of the yoke, between the yoke forks? No, the yoke is only turned on to the threaded rod by 4 full threads. I took the yokes completely off and then put them back on using 4 full turns thinking that was the minimum thread...

MN_Ford_Fan

So I realized I was getting quite a bit of rear brake drag with the brake lever in neutral. I disconnected the brake control rods. Put the lever in my best neutral position, and tried to adjust break control rod yokes to reach the break lever at this position. I realize this might not give me a skid...

MN_Ford_Fan

I did fail to mention to check the condition of the clutch pedal support cam...Sadly it's INSIDE the hogshead...so you know what that means if it's wore, and a lot of em are! Been there, done that. PIA!! Yep, everything is a bit worn. Just trying to find the best neutral I can so I can push it acro...

MN_Ford_Fan

Pretty much toward the front, inasmuch as this apparatus is actually at angle. The angle is much more horizontal on my car than what is depicted in the picture. So if I understand this right; 1. Hold low speed pedal all the way up. 2. Take up slop in yoke-to-pedal connection by pushing yoke towards...

MN_Ford_Fan

I'm following the guide to get my neutral dialed in. The yoke attached to the low speed pedal has quite a bit of play in the mounting hole in the pedal. Do I take up this play towards the front or rear of the car when setting the 1/16? Or do I try and center it within the "play range" best as possib...

MN_Ford_Fan

Thanks all. So I have inspected my spring cups and pins and they are all in excellent condition. Would it be wise to just reuse these rather than get new lower-quality ones? I figure I should replace the springs regardless. Also, what can I expect when seating in the new valves? My current seats are...

MN_Ford_Fan

I am replacing the head on my 26' and thought I would look up best practices for cleaning the carbon off the pistons and valves. While researching that, I came across the issue with 2-piece valves. Sure enough, that is what I have in my T. The valves, seats, and push rods appear to be in great condi...

MN_Ford_Fan

I was installing my new vendor supplied ammeter today and I noticed that with the wiring installed in the typical fashion you see on the wiring diagrams, the yellow from battery on the left post (as seen from face of ammeter) and the jumper to the switch on the right post, my ammeter read backwards....

MN_Ford_Fan

Jim, Duly noted on the generator runaway issue. I read a few of the past arguments about that topic. The one that made the most sense to me stated that if you have enough amperage going through the wires to blow the fuse, frying your generator may be the better option among others, such as burning u...

MN_Ford_Fan

Thanks Dan. I wired in the fuse today. I put it up closer to the fuse block to keep it out of the elements but I like your fuse holder in the pics. May have to look for one of them. It appears that the generator survived the ordeal as I get 7 volts at the battery when running at a semi-fast idle. I ...

MN_Ford_Fan

I see in the forum history there is quite a bit of concern about the quality of the replacement 26-27 ammeters from the vendors. Are there other options available aside from finding an original used one? Can my burnt original be rebuilt?

MN_Ford_Fan

Thanks. It is a new wiring harness so I'm confident that there are no shorts in the wiring itself. I do get intermittent headlight operation if I jiggle the connector. I did not have the lights on at the time of the melt down.

MN_Ford_Fan

Was finally able to get my model T to the point I could take it out on the road for the first time since I've owned it. Got about 3 miles down the road and everything was going good when it just died. I was running on battery at the time. The starter still worked, but coils would not buzz. After dig...

MN_Ford_Fan

Ok, assembled it as Erik said and once squared up with a tight nut, the brush does not rub. Looks good now. Thanks Erik!

MN_Ford_Fan

Thanks Erik, that was also a consideration I had. So that means the brush assembly will rub a little on the cover?

MN_Ford_Fan

I bought a (new) new day timer from one of the vendors and am working on the install. One question I have is about the black "spacer" washer that was included. I assume this goes between the brush assembly and the timer cover in order to provide some standoff. My question is that this spacer is very...

MN_Ford_Fan

After finding a piece of lug shoe stuck to my magnets, I broke down the transmission to get a look. Sure enough, 1 shoe gone and all but 1 damaged in some fashion. I noticed while spinning the hubs to get a look at the gears, with the assembly sitting in the position shown in the pic, the reverse dr...

MN_Ford_Fan

Thanks Andy. I may take you up on that. I have to go to St. Cloud sometime in the next 2 weeks anyway. Is it best just to bring the whole trans? I am not planning on disassembling the clutch/drums if not necessary. Considering that 3 brass screws lost their heads, do I need to put in all new screws ...

MN_Ford_Fan

I have the motor out and the trans off. 3 magnet keeper plates came off and were being thrown about. Not seeing any damage other than to the plates themselves. So, I plan to get a new coil ring. What is the best plan of action for the magnets? I don't see any cracks on initial inspection. They have ...

MN_Ford_Fan

Thanks Jim for your thoughtful response. No intention of running it as is, I've read enough posts to know better. I'm learning as I go. I have the manual and have no problem pulling the power plant. Just wanted to see what my options were.

MN_Ford_Fan

Thanks. I guess my question is; assuming a keeper plate and maybe a magnet has fallen off, can I make this thing safe to drive on batt by removing the loose parts? Do I need to remove the rest of the plates and magnets for balance issues? Can I do all of that with just hogshead removed?

MN_Ford_Fan

New to the forum but have been reading it since acquiring a 26 runabout last summer (2019). First thing I did when I got it home was drain the oil. A brass screw head came out with the oil. Not knowing anything yet, I assumed it was just a piece left over from previous repairs. Went about getting it...

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