MTFCA Forum

Should I just hold the points down on the coils instead? I accidentally shorted #4 coil while the engine wasn’t running I think I fried it. :( Edit: it seems to work fine still. No matter how fast I run the engine and what coil I hold down, I can’t get her to knock. Edit: Seems to be when #2 and #3 ...

So I’ve got my coveralls on and I’m going to be firing Lizzie up and diagnosing the knock in a few minutes. I’ll post some pictures with questions as I go in case I run into any snags. :D Edit: Shocked myself and dropped the screwdriver. OUCH! Doesn’t seem like I’m leeching enough current off the pl...

The knock getting worse could be due to the type oil used in the crankcase. Most of the newer oils are multi-grade and don't change much in viscosity with temperature, however, the older single grade oils will get thinner as the temperature rises leaving a thinner film in the bearing. The multi=gra...

One thing about a rod knock. Usually it is first noticeable when you just slightly decelerate. As you would do if you just want to slow down a little but not when you are going downhill on compression. The knock comes when the rod is running slack on the crankshaft. As it gets worse, it might be he...

TWrenn wrote: ↑
Thu Oct 21, 2021 9:59 am
If it has Tru-Fire i don't think you can do the "short-test" as it may ruin the electronic coils. Just sayin, as you didn't mention what type of ignition.

I have a stock ignition system with rebuilt coils.

Here’s Roxy in the front seat last Fall. Always fun to have the poops along for the ride!

Edit: It didn’t work I’ll have to compress the image.

Edit 2: Fixed it!

My engine has a rapid, loud knock which has gotten worse recently. It started a little while ago and I only put a few (maybe 4-5) miles on the car since it started due to me being away for the summer on the TS Empire State. It seems to happen when the engine has been ran for a few minutes and can be...

Yeah the tolls here can get ridiculous. To go over some bridges it’s $16.

That sure would be a long drive!

Hello everyone, hope you, your families, and your T's are well. This Sunday the 24th from 12:00 to 16:00 my school will be hosting a car show through the school's automotive club which I am a part of. They asked me if I knew anyone with cool cars and I figured I'd let you all know about it. I plan o...

Trying to find time to drop the inspection plate to fix a loud rod knock when the engine decelerates. Between college during the week and working on the weekends I haven’t had the time to open up Lizzie and see what’s loose. :( I did get to replace her tube in her front left tire, I got the hang of ...

Your T has a mirror? Now that's awful fancy!

I wanted to take Lizzie to campus with my room mate along for the ride for my school's biggest game of the year, the plan was to drive her around the field whenever we scored a touch down. Unfortunately when I opened up her house that morning her front left tire was flatter than the state of Florida...

This rod for the carb? https://www.macsautoparts.com/model-t-carburetor-adjusting-rod-18-1-2-long-for-steel-firewall-1917-1925-16-55425-1.html You should also get a set of cotter pins from Lang’s, I’m sure if you look around your car you’ll see more than a few castellated nuts with missing cotter pi...

One of the things that I love about Model T engines is the myriad of applications that they were eventually used for. I saw a video about one that had been converted into a stationary saw and I though that was super cool. One day I want to buy a small launch hull and put a T engine in it. I think th...

varmint wrote: ↑
Wed May 12, 2021 7:17 am
32 Charlie Chan b.jpg

Excuse please.

I have contacted the seller and I will be sending the carb back to be repaired. ModelT96 is a great seller. I didn’t know who they were at first but I found their website and phone number and contacted them and they seem very nice.

Do you think soaking the bottom of the carb in Kroil or some other penetrating oil will hurt it? I might try that before messing with torches and gas vapors.

How do I make sure there’s no gas in the Kingston if the drain nut just spins without backing out?

I’m not sure what intake gaskets I have. I haven’t taken off the intake manifold off yet. I already have gently bottomed out the needle and backed it out 1-1.5 turns and she won’t start.

Yes the listing said it was restored and it came with an intake manifold to carb gasket. It was $185. I’ll check the idle passages and needles.

I got it from a guy on EBay who sold other T parts, he seemed to have great ratings. I think I’ll fix the Kingston, only problem is the brass nut on the bottom is stuck and no matter how hard I try to remove it it just won’t budge.

Edit: I got the carb from this guy: https://www.ebay.com/usr/modelt96

Now that I’ve got the starter gear fixed, I installed a rebuilt Holley NH carburetor as the Kingston L4 on the car was flooding quite badly and had a broken choke spring. I got the car to run with the new NH but it was running way to rich and the mixture control was doing nothing. I figured out that...

I like the unstyled styling of the earlier cars and the raw, direct "mechanicalness" of all of them. I find the later model styling pleasing, also. To me, the frame and the several mechanical "units" of the cars also have a pleasing appearance. The whole car is the best part! Best car ever made! :D

DLodge wrote: ↑
Sat Apr 24, 2021 3:20 pm
Isn't the classic answer to that question "The nut behind the wheel"?

I ordered a new key from Lang’s Norm, I got the old one off but I figured it’s only a $0.50 part which takes the brunt of the starter’s force, might as well replace it. The key just flew backwards on to the garage floor when I went to grab the spring after removing the stripped bendix head. An older...

I’ve kept the cover screws on Lizzie’s running boards. I like to get my hands oily working on Lizzie so I don’t mind starting the screws by hand!

Yes that screw at the 3 o’clock position was quite fun to remove! Once I get the bendix repaired I’ll check the timer firing positions and see if they’re all lined up or close to it. Better that Lizzie kicked back on the starter and not on my wrists!

Oh yes I’m getting a new bendix head, that hole is totally shot. I’m also getting a new set of bendix gear screw bolts, lock washers, new housing gasket and housing.

Thank You SO MUCH for all the recent help you guys! You guys are awesome!

I’m imagining I can just seal the crack of the bendix gear cover with some solder? I don’t seem to see any for sale.

Edit: Never mind, I found one!

http://www.snjparts.com/Model-T-Starter ... -3380.html

Looks like the key is too small? Like the corners are chipped. The spring does not seem to be cracked but it does seem to be very compressed.

Looks like the threads in the bendix head are gone and the hole out of round. Bendix gear itself is ok with one slightly chipped tooth and it turns freely in the shaft.

https://imgur.com/a/9sIgIuV

The screw is stripped.

https://imgur.com/a/af0zmtQ

I’m having trouble finding the bendix gear key? I don’t see one? The picture is confusing.

Bendix head spring screw is stripped, fell right into my hand. Bendix gear cover is cracked and that’s where the oil came out of. Pictures are too large to attach. Going to downsize then.

About to open up the bendix cover according to the Ford bible and I’ll take a picture and post it in a few minutes.

No I’m 6V.

So I’ve fixed the stripped head bolt problem, turns out the threads in the block were pretty good, tap went in and out with little issue after the hole was cleaned. Valves looked ok and no sticking. Cleaned the rest of the engine and took care to keep cylinders clean of debris, then put in a new cop...

That '38 Indian looks so modern and so classic at the same time... awesome bike.

Hudson29 wrote: ↑
Wed Apr 07, 2021 6:27 pm
I was very glad to hear that you have found the problem but I'm mystified by the piece of paper shown in front of the radiator. What does it depict?

Here is the post Paul.

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/59 ... 1472250621

My friends and co-workers are going to help me with this, one is an experienced engine rebuilder. I’m just trying to learn as much as I can about all of this. Unfortunately when the head comes off I may indeed, and likely will, discover more issues such as sticky/burned valves or (god forbid) a warp...

So the threads on the bolt should be 7/16ths of an inch, 14 turns per inch. So that would be the bottoming tap and thread cleaning tip I should buy. How should I tap the threads after cleaning the holes (if necessary)? Do I tap them with a ratchet or with a drill? I only have a weak cordless drill o...

Yes I’m going to cover the cylinders when they are all half down while cleaning the bolt holes so nothing gets inside and gets jammed between the pistons and cylinder walls and damages the cylinder walls.

Do I attach that cleaning tool to a drill and just slowly drive it in after cleaning the bolt holes? Then after that I put the bottom thread tap in? Or do it tap the threads then use the cleaning tool? Hopefully I don’t have to put helicoils in but if that’s what I need to do then that’s what I shal...

I’ll definitely keep you all posted. I greatly appreciate all of your help and I can’t wait to get my hands oily again. If oil was coming out under the head of the bolt with the engine running, does that mean that #3 piston’s ring is blown? Or is that just because there was not enough pressure from ...

I’ll pull the head next weekend when my final exams are over and I can put all of my attention towards Lizzie. I’ll see what those old threads are looking like after I clean them up and put put a bottom tap in them. Hopefully they are all ok and I don’t need to use helicoils.

Thank you Jim, that was a lot of very helpful information.

I appreciate you posting the picture from Imgur here, I tried posting it here but it was too large.

How do I clean out the rust and carbon with a drill bit? Wouldn’t that damage the threads? Or am I supposed to use a bronze brush drill bit and spin it inside the threads?

How do I determine if my head is high or low?

Hello everyone, hope you and your cars are all well. I was replacing Lizzie’s Kingston carburetor with a new Holley NH as the old Kingston was flooding badly and I figured I would pull it out and rebuild it and in the meantime use the rebuilt NH and in the end I’d have a spare carburetor ready to go...

How do you use an ultrasonic bath to clean a carb? You just drop the jets and float in?

Did anyone know of any for sale... There might be a few here for sale. My car was posted here and the same day I saw the post I went to see Lizzie and gave her a good home. Hemmings, Autotrader classics, and even Facebook marketplace have some good listings for Model Ts usually, but there are some ...

Very cool, was thinking about going to school and getting my license to do something similar...be a captain, ext. It would take a lot of sea time to become a captain, usually out of an academy you would start out as an AB and then promote into the wheelhouse or start out right away as a Third Mate....

Thank you for that and for sharing your story. Will appreciate that sentiment in mind and keep moving forward to fulfill my dream. What are you thinking about going to college for or what are you going there to study? I’m currently in college and studying to be a licensed 3rd mate on an oceangoing ...

Thank you for that and for sharing your story. Will appreciate that sentiment in mind and keep moving forward to fulfill my dream. What are you thinking about going to college for or what are you going there to study? I’m currently in college and studying to be a licensed 3rd mate on an oceangoing ...

For some inspiration Mason, I bought my first car a few months ago when I was 23, a 1922 Touring Ca! :D She'll be 100 next September, going to take her to my local Ford dealer for an oil change for laughs. It's certainly possible to own a fine Ford motor car at a young age, Model Ts are easily the m...

I guess you have no starter since there is no choke to the dashboard!

Cranking her up off of magneto I take it?

Is it coming from the differential housing? My car seems to have developed a slow leak from this area as well.

By flipping I mean the grease cups are facing towards the floor and I want to flip it back so it's facing the sky.

I do not have a Warford, my T is stock. But thank you for the info, it will come in handy when I buy my first TT! This winter I will remove the rear axle and flip the drive shaft back the proper way. I'll make another post about it asking for advice when that day comes.

When I looked inside the bolt hole where the grease cup is supposed to be it was totally dry, I think the previous owner never greased it.

Thank you! My magneto is running strong and I plan on cleaning the mag post too. When I flip the driveshaft back into the correct position I'll clean out the current grease and replace it with non-molybdenum and non-graphite grease. Would lithium grease work? one of my dorm mates was talking about h...

It does have molybdenum in it. That’s unfortunate. What kind of damage will it do to the magneto?

I drove 320 miles to look at my first Model T, the ad said the price was negotiable. I get there and suddenly when it's time to talk money the "price was firm" and there was a "mistake in the ad" blah blah. After it became clear I was leaving without the T the seller went on an unsolicited anti-seme...

My apologies, I didn't want to make more threads and spam the board with questions. I think the low band is fine, I'm just being overly-cautious. I'd feel terrible if I damaged a Model T through newbie mistakes.

My car does not have an oil screen, but I have one with the magnet and I was planning on installing it when I changed the oil. Should I just install it, run her to warm her up, then drain the old oil and clean the old oil off screen and replace it to catch even more stuff? Also, my oil level is bare...

I've been using this grease: https://www.modeltford.com/item/2833GR.aspx It's gray like graphite, and now I'm worried it has graphite in it and I might end up harming the Magneto. :( Does anyone else use this grease for their universal joints? When I step on the low pedal Lizzie responds quickly to ...

Now that's a Fabulous Flivver! If only our cars could speak...

Done! https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/app.php/gallery/image/1646 Not the best picture I'll admit, I took it right after I first got her while she was parked at work, doing this made me realize how few pictures I actually have of Lizzie, so I'll have to take her for a spin around the Big Apple for a ph...

Now I'm even more confused! :D So I guess my next project is going to just be me sitting under Lizzie and turning cup after cup of grease into that universal joint! Going to invest in a zerk cap and a gun! Also, when I adjust the low band, should I hear the GRRRRRRRR sound when the pedal is fully de...

So my T's driveshaft is flipped upside down, with the grease cups facing downward. Not how I'd have done it but that's how the previous owner did it, so for now I'll have to live with it. There is only the smaller grease cup towards the rear of the car on the driveshaft, and a bolt where the large u...

I'm about to change my oil and put in some Pennzoil 5W-30 synthetic. I'll post some results after I run her for a bit. Should I change the oil when the engine is hot? This is the first oil change I've ever done on a car, considering this is my first car!

I drive my T in here NYC, and if there’s anything I can thank our scumbag mayor for, it’s lowering the city speed limit to 25mph. I don’t need to go any faster, Ts love driving at that speed anyways!

I wish I look that good when I turn 100 in 76 years! My T turns 100 in two years and I think for her birthday I’ll take her to my local Ford service department and jokingly ask for an oil change.

She’s looking great, I love the Tourings with the straight up and down windshield.

AAA was around in 1927? Wow, I had no idea it’s that old!

Brakes? We ain’t got no brakes! We don’t need no brakes! We don’t to drive with any stinking brakes!

Model Ts like to be well oiled and well greased! It doesn’t hurt to add a little oil to the oil cups on the suspension every few drives, and give the grease cups a turn every week, depending on how much you drive of course. Keeping things well oiled and greased will save you a ton of time and money ...

I like the old presidential election stickers. That’s pretty cool, would be really cool if those have been on the car all those years! I was thinking about putting a “Black Cars Matter” magnet on my car but here in the Bronx I’m pretty sure that would get my T vandalized. :( Though I must say I’ve g...

Drive around town and give people rides in her! I just got a U-joint grease cup and removed the bolt that closed the hole and put in the cup. Put about 4.5 cups of grease into the U-joint and removed it and replaced the bolt since the driveshaft is upside down and the cup gets in the way of the hand...

I’ll try adjusting the carb, then if that doesn’t fix it I guess my motor is still missing a little bit! Thanks guys!

So I’ve got my T running good, no longer misses and fires right up after the first or second crank cold. But when I shift into second, it lurches a little bit while driving in second. Like the power isn’t smooth. I used to lug the engine when I shifted into second because I had the RPMs too low, now...

I installed a gas shut off at the carburetor with a felt seal in the pack nut, the gas no longer leaks out on the floor drip by drip! I installed some lock washers on the bendix cover (I think that's what it is, it's magnetized which is weird) and now they don't back out anymore. I also packed some ...

It would be really funny to see a T with airbags and ABS!

It’s ok Norm, I didn’t tighten the bolts securing the hogshead to the car as I found the leak. It was the screws securing the Bendix gear cover that fell out that were the source of my leak. What size lock washers would I need for those screws? Would a T parts supplier have them? Those aircraft bolt...

So those darned screws loosened themselves from the bendix gear cover (?). Found them on the street and replaced them. Had to give her a few cranks and she fired right up. Who needs a starter motor?

I’ll pack the bolt hole with grease then screw the bolt in a bit, rinse repeat in the meantime. I’ll screw in ~10 bolts worth of grease or so.

Looks like there’s just a bolt where my U-joint grease cup is supposed to be...why would the previous owner do that? Oh well, I ordered a grease cup for it. Hope it threads in and the threads aren’t stripped from the bolt.

Don’t know why Ford switched to positive ground with the A.

Bought some Permatex Ultra Black!

There was oil pouring out of the car. I found the leak, a screw fell out of the Bendix gear housing (I think that’s what it’s called?). I tightened all screws and it doesn’t leak oil anymore. Anyways, I’m guessing I should order a U-joint grease cup and install that. I’m just not sure where to put i...

Posted two of the same pictures, sorry about that. Going to post another one after I resize it.

So I’m going to look for the leak in a few minutes. I’ll run the engine and see where it’s coming from. Someone pointed out my driveshaft was flipped and I was missing my u-joint grease cup. I took some pictures of the u-joint and I’ll post them here to see what you guys think about it. Maybe I just...

I don’t see any cracks on the hogshead, just looks like she’s leaking near the bolt by the engine. I’ll see how that fix works.

I think I‘ll tighten all the bolts on the hogshead starting from the center and work my way out. Looks like it’s coming out of the bolt near the engine.

That’s one cool old Ford!

I really want to go to the museum this year!

I replaced the cracked pack nut, and with the adjusted coils and fixed exhaust leak, the engine no longer misses! Hooray! Now there seems to be a large leak of oil coming out of the left side of the hogshead where the upper and lower halves meet just below the pedals. It doesn’t seem to be from the ...

OIL LINE IS NOT CLOGGED! HOORAY!

You guys are amazing. I’m in the garage with Lizzie and I’m going to loosen that bolt right now! Just adjusted the low output intermittent spark coil to ~1.3amp and much better spark, if oil comes out of that bolt hole when the engine is running I’m going to install the oil screen and change the oil!

I got a copy of the Ford service manual, I looked at cleaning the oil line and it doesn’t seem like too bad a job. I’ve been reading my owners manual, Vintage Ford magazine, MTFCA books on systems, and Ford service. Is there anything I should look out for when cleaning the oil line, replace anything...

Thank you! I’ll unbolt that one front right bolt and wait for oil to flow out, if none does I’ll have to blow out the oil line.

Just wanted to thank everyone so far for all the help, this thread has turned into a goldmine or into and tips and so far it’s helped me out far more than I ever expected! Thanks again! So I see in the most recent issue of Vintage Ford an article about overheating, and it mentions how to test if the...

Search found 127 matches