MTFCA Forum

OK; I gathered up the 2nd strap metal piece and the 2nd clad in gold spot price bracket that bolts to the other runningboard support…the 2 straps and angle iron are easily farm made.

Here you go Bruce, You need 5 pieces - all of which I think Snyders or Langs sell. One photo shows how they all fit together. There’s one angle iron with 4 holes. Outboard 2 bolt into the runningboard supports. Inboard 2 bolt to the 2 strap metal pieces. Other end of the strap metal pieces bolt to e...

When I put a roof on my C Cab, I only considered copra and long grain vinyl. Chose the former and bought sufficient material from Classtique. Looks great 28 years later.
I didn’t use all those crossways slats. Restored it as original.

Yes, of course - Happy Birthday Allan

I attempt to read your very informative posts on this Forum in a charming Australian dialect

My favorite is the 9th photo from the top of the Iowa fella seemingly proud of his bran new 1913 touring. Thanks for the intriguing photos Tom….

Why didn’t he lock low band onto low drum ? Would’ve been my 2nd choice after decelerating engine. But I’m pleased accident damage was averted.

Most interesting. Thanks for the history lesson Dan.

***btt*** to hopefully have my question answered

Yeah, it’s a ‘24-‘25 body style. Wide cowl and apron covering lower radiator tank is a giveaway. $7500 is a decent price..

I’m also very saddened to hear of Norm’s passing away. I’ve very much enjoyed reading his well considered writings on this Forum. Thank you Norm

Thank you for the confirmation Larry, but we Need our many vendors. I have a question however. You’ll see in my photo a Neverout accessory bracket was inserted between the Ford taillamp bracket and the Ford taillamp. Does anyone know the license plate procedure 112 years ago when a new Ford was purc...

Its controversial. Others will say this isn’t effective but it works for me: I use a Ford T 6 volt starter with s 12 volt battery and I’ve inserted a ruined bendix spring onto the starter bolt with the other end of the bendix spring attached to the cable from the starter switch. When cranking the en...

Rich,…LEDs ? That 3rd photo is a pretty slick speedster - needing a gargantuan tool box

This is correct….and don’t go using hex nuts. They’re square

That happened to me once. I removed the shifter from the housing and the shifter was dry inside ! I slathered it up with grease and reassembled and it worked fine.

Displaying my ignorance toward the gas tank on that 5th from the bottom factory photo of the ‘Open Runabout’. It appears to be a large much later gas tank. I would’ve thought something round or oval on a stand ??

Many years ago I loaned a spoke Jack to another club member who felt he needed to insert shims.. years went by…then the Model T club had an event in the “museum” he established behind his house. There on a shelf proudly stood my spoke jack. When confronted, he said “I get upset when people loan me t...

Marty, I have a 26-27 rear end, driveshaft and radius rods I’d sell for $80. It’s on a farm just north of New Braunfels so you’d have to drive nearly an hour to see it. I’ll be there tomorrow (7 Feb) morning…and it would have to be rebuilt

Why don’t you send an email to James thru the Forum?

I haven’t seen the easiest solution mentioned yet. I remove the spare tire on my ‘26 roadster. Only takes a minute. That gives you much better access to the battery and you can easily lift it with a strap.

I think “the Best Magnet Clamps” would be the one compatible with your 16 magnets. I use your ‘A’ clamp for engines 1914-1926.

Yes they are. Your lamp covers should also fit 1914 E&J Model 32s…

….and they obviously have redundant lighting capability.

13 photos of touring/roadsters with top Down (some in winter) and only 1 photo of touring with top Up. What’s going on with the rear springs and rear end truss on the deer hunter touring ? Thanks again Tom for starting my morning off right……

Congratulations Joshua !.. I admire that you’ve embarked on the correct sequence of events to take possession of this chassis and get the engine moving along. I’m also excited to hear of your future efforts. .. You done good !

Yep… I twisted down all the grease cups on the Generac and laid wood and kindling in the fireplace. Now to go to town for some Crown Royal.

The rear axle tapers and front spindle threads are secured into large blocks of wood so the crate sides would have to be built afterwards. And is their purpose to protect the threads or to raise the chassis sufficiently for wheel storage ?

And the shiny brass acorn nut atop the steering column is incorrect for a ‘black’ T…….

**final price reduction**

** final price reduction**

**only btt this ad until it falls into obscurity**

**Will now sandblast this for you for $75 total + the ride**

TT corner brackets and pr cast crankcase ‘ears’ spoken for and all boxed up. Thanks Charlie and MTFCA

Many thanks James !!

John, I’m only 25 miles south of Austin and would like to participate - but you’ve wrapped your post in Facebook and I’m not on Facebook. Can you send it “in the clear”?

More pictures ? Angles ? Just ask for it…

Beginning Top Left: TT C Cab front and rear corner brackets (2) + 1 curtain frame bracket.$25 Accy cast or forged crankcase ‘ears’ Pat’d April 1918 Zoom In! $40, Pair pan/hogshead/block brackets.$35 Really nice NH Straight Thru Carb and manifold. Removed it and replaced with a U&J Only $350, Powder ...

**price reduced**

**price reduced**

Only $60 + USPS flat rate small. Another sandblasted recently sold here for $100. All threads used tap or dies already and in good condition.
gwhouse731(at)gmail(dot)com

Terry, I have a few of those clamps already removed and a couple of unrestorable steel rims you can have if you can’t get one from Alan. I’m surprised you haven’t contacted me

Yeah, remove the hogshead first. Not only will it make the engine removal lighter, it’ll make it easier because the 3 pedals won’t be hanging up on the firewall. But before you remove it, you’ll have to remove the starter. And before you remove the starter, you’ve gotta REMOVE THE BENDIX COVER AND B...

Lamps. The one on the right (with magnet) has unusual steel top but otherwise complete with brass top font and burner. No cracks in glass or brass. The other, left side 110, has a dent in black painted top of chimney and back panel. This one has no burner an no cracks in glass or brass Best offer ov...

Pat’ Dec 9, 1908…Original paint and perfect condition. Complete. No cracks in glass or brass. Believe for 1913-1914 Ford. Only $160 + shipping.
gwhouse731(at)gmail(dot)com. First caller gets it

No name. Beautiful brass & glass. No cracks or dents. Has burner. Entire chimney nickel plated brass as is entire font
Beautiful multifaceted glass in rear. Only $ 90 + the ride.
gwhouse731(at)gmail(dot)com

I know what the are !! They’re $10 @ pair Swap Meet brackets

I think the only way to have your question answered is to either research Accessions on your own at THF or pay a volunteer there $35. I’m fairly sure this hasn’t previously been discovered. Pat will surely offer his conjecture. Personally I’ve restored my ‘14 windshield frames to glossy black. Then ...

Rob,… now thats a hobby exit with panache ;o)..Sorry to see you go however. You and Winnie were great tour compadres and our great friends. With advancing age I’m also nonselecting my ‘14 runabout’s crank handle more often and enjoying my ‘50 Ford tudor on bucolic rural roads.

Yes, and fairly unusual windwings

Last photo: Rare example of all brass painted black. Thank you Tom. These are jewels.

Interesting 4th from the bottom roadster. There’s something about that cowl that doesn’t look right and the hood looks newer. ‘15-‘16 ? due to flat LR fender ? And the windshield & brackets are unlike anything I’ve ever seen…..”Hub dust cover ? I don’t need no stinkin hubcap”

Good choice colonel. Plan the work and work the plan. A ‘17 engine is valuable (especially if spark plugs were installed). Even Alan from Down Under admitted to using JB Weld to change casting date on a late teen T engine to use in a brass T. …….

White wonderland - black RPU… beautiful contrast

Yep. Tractor w/ front end loader, chains and chain saw is all you’ll need. Once the frame is on jackstands at my house, I’d love to be the one to get the “newly rebuilt engine” running. OP said the deceased T owner was his friend so, in my estimation, theres no getting around his brother’s request.

Respectfully speaking John; I cannot align with your confusion. The A.I. monster told me there was 7,000 Ford dealerships in the US in 1912 so we may assume that number increased over the next 3-4 years. So if Wayne states “quite a number of Ford dealers were switching the electric lamps out” and St...

That’s about a 1907 Ford model N with a very unusual mother-in-law seat. First one I’ve seen on an N. Quite ubiquitous on the Rs and Ss. Also the poor fitting top was an accessory and thats the only N I’ve seen with landau arms. Photo #6 is another N. I think; judging by lack of runningboard in the ...

Is photo # 9 a ‘15 or ‘16 touring with retrofitted hood and radiator of the ‘black era’? And the 2nd to last photo of the 2 ladies in a roadster appears to be similar ?? Thanks for the photos and this puzzlement Tom.

Yes Bill, there is a Santa Claus…It’s called Heartland Ts of OKC… e-mail David Powell at dpowell929lb@hotmail.com
…Also; consider joining MTFCA

French side curtain ad ?

That’s an early Form-a-Truck style extension of a pre ‘23 roadster, you can clearly see the left rear chain and sprocket by that child’s store bought toy car.

‘Gasoline’ is written on the tank and it appears a metal box in the rear contains the valves…regular, mid grade and Premium ??…

Thank you Greg; and may I take this opportunity, on your thread, to wish you, yours and all our Forum friends a very Merry Christmas !

…and my coffin won’t have a trailer hitch.

Wow ! That was cool ! Fords thru the years 1896-1909 driving thru Greenfield.

That’s a mighty big “if” Mark. Any evidence out there of a Ford dealership of the era Also selling aftermarket wood TT cabs ? I believe they only sold TT chassis until Ford offered the C cab.

That thang just needs a starter, generator, water pump and distributor !!………….

…Just funnin, of course. That’s the most beautiful T I’ve ever seen and could stand and look at it for hours. Thanks for sharing.

… and an outside oil line ! ;o)

I think that fenderless touring in the fifth photo invented the first ‘burn out.’ If the next photo (6th) is actually a Ford dealership, I find it odd that an aftermarket wood body TT is there.

Oooops… forgot the photo.

Allan, I respectfully submit that your ‘replacement’ theory is leading to misinformation. I’m 2nd owner of this roadster and performed meticulous research on various components before restoring. Besides, there has been much previous discussion on this Forum attesting to the originality of that slot ...

Howdy Brent,… Sorry but I can’t help on your New and Improved touring question :roll: But I can share how i meticulously restored my New and Improved roadster. The 5/16” bolts are 3/4” long and the heads (like your picture) are a little less diameter than hardware store offerings. See the machine sc...

SOLD!..thank you Chris and MTFCA

The only ***btt*** until this ad drops into obscurity.
Vendors sell petcock for >$30

Tom,

If I take “around” to mean on the horizontal, we call it the ‘belt line’.

And 7th from the bottom. The pair of 1913s. Both toneau covers are tight - but, is that a homemade turtledeck ?

Third from the bottom ‘16 touring could be titled ‘Girls Gone Mudding.’ Nice fit of splash apron to LR fender tho.

Ya sure, you betcha Erik ! That wood body is a Schurmeier from Minnesota by golly !

…Original, polished up, with operable petcock and intact glass.
Only $25 + free shipping in lower 48
gwhouse731(at)gmail(dot)com

I’m amazed those white smooth tires didn’t give a “hitch” in 4200 miles…

Thanks for the era photos Tom. I don’t usually care for speedsters but the white speedster 8th from the bottom is interesting. The windshield, I believe, was salvaged from a Dodge open car and only the top half frame was used. And see how they patched up between cowl curvature and stanchion ? Is the...

Here you are Art. Like Jerry said. The elongated ‘rivet’ appears about 1/8” from both sides of the hinge - with the pin evidently being inserted from the left and right side.

Oh, now I see the pictures ! It looks a whole lot nicer than what I pictured in my mind’s eye. Wood wheels look nice / tires hold air. I agree with $500.

Depends….if it transitioned from a 1914 or before T, I pay $600. If from a ‘20s something, I’d pay $50. But, if it fits in with another hobby (old tractor), I’d pay up for it. I once bought a Model T hay wagon maintained outside in a fairly arid climate. Bought it for the man’s price - $25. Had nice...

I’m halfway to you from the Left Coast. I’d sell one for $30 but it would cost the same to FedEx it.

That’s it Dan ! That’s exactly what I need ! I’ll definitely get those CDs if that kind of information is found. April 4 and June 11,1914 was the Accessions I was looking for. Many thanks

Thank you Dan. I’ll send for Bruce’s set of 2 CDs. I used to have the Accession dating the end of aluminum crank handles in 1914 and the introduction of cast iron crank handles. I believe it was in April 1914. Bruce’s Encyclopedia on our site is vague when it states for 1914, “Aluminum formed handle...

Henry Lee said “The rounded trim is actually for boats.”
Not so fast Hank. Here is an example of quite a bit of rounded trim I acquired off a salvaged 1910-1911 REO.

Friends,… I’ve researched to the best of my limited ability to find Accession ‘scriptures’ on the I Net - to no avail. Specifically I/we should be interested in production changes during the Model T era. How difficult must it be to computerize this ? Or has it already been done ?

Don,… There exists a number of “TT experts” on this Forum. I’d recommend you start a new thread here titled something akin to ‘Heres What We Have, Whatsit Worth’? Then describe the TT -With Pictures- and you’ll receive many ‘expert’ replies.

Price reduced to $32.50 !!

Very good.. thank you Kurt and Larry. Now to go to the little brass screw drawer. Don’t worry; they won’t be those horrid Phillips head screws….

Spoken for pending payment. Thank you Wayne and MTFCA

I love the wind wings.. an no stinkin isinglass.

Thank you Kurt. So they’re vertical on the right side and horizontal on the left side ? I received some good information from Larry Smith too. Anybody else ?

Welcome home Dave. I’m very sorry you’ve lost quite a bit of family, but gladdened you’ve come back to your Model T family…….

Now thats exhibiting discipline- to not sit on the hood.

Also restored and installed a ‘Thermador’ “swamp cooler” on my ‘50 Ford. Given to me by a TX Panhandle friend where climate is arid and they worked well. Now in a more humid climate and it’s just for looks.
Who remembers these ?

SOLD… thank you David and MTFCA

Thats someone’s beautiful trophy Corey. And it’s been test run on a T engine !

Pat’d Dec 9, 1908 Original Black paint. No chips or cracks in blue, red or clear glasses. Complete with operable burner. Panel just below lamp square and above font is painted over brass. Doesn’t appear to stand erect but should mount well. Only $85 + FedEx
gwhouse731(at)gmail(dot)com

Nice shape. Only $40 + FedEx.
gwhouse731(at)gmail(dot)com

Believe later “boot scraper” style. See elongated carriage bolt hole. Others are good. Only $32.50 + FedEx
gwhouse731(at)gmail(dot)com

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