MTFCA Forum

Honorary Shell Hill hard luck trophy.

You just can't rely on 100year old Ford parts anymore.

I would be okay with .004".

That photo doesn't show a real Ford part. Why not try doing it correctly? I dont use those thick cast aluminum caps. If you added a felt seal it wont fit either. If you want to use a modern lip seal, Bill Bolin makes them from spun steel. Available for early & late sized caps. Also the seal cap is ...

Original Smith wrote: ↑
Sat Mar 21, 2026 12:24 pm
That photo doesn't show a real Ford part. Why not try doing it correctly?

My research shows Ford never installed RM brakes. Will you be removing yours?

PorkChops wrote: ↑
Mon Mar 16, 2026 8:10 am
In addition to the oiler under the distributor head, do people periodically smear an oil film on the surface of the points cam and put a drop of oil down the side of the shaft from above?

Oil from above not required. No oil on point cam. There is a special lube for that.

Try Bring a Trailer.

I looked at the ad pictures. It looks like two different cranks.

Look for a set screw. Perhaps under the nameplate.

Look for a set screw.

I agree with the above.

On a side note, I never use those. Knock off on the opposite side is the only way I remove those wheels.

The newer green stuff is compatible with aluminum.

Sparkplugs.com

3095 $5.80

425x. $31.95

I'll take this. I'll call you later today.

It is my understanding,

Copyrights before 1978 expire in 95 years.

I am quite sure there are many specific rules. Mel's copyright expires in 39 years.

I lay screen across it, and pop in a manifold packing center ring doo dah, then trim. Works fine.

Look at the bright side. As soon as you fabricate one, you'll find one.

BuddyTheRoadster wrote: ↑
Tue Dec 30, 2025 4:26 am
A client is rewooding a touring car, and he found that the blueprints he was given don't match with the wood in the body. Is there a reliable source for body wood blueprints?

Use the existing as patterns. It doesn't get any better.

The plastic water bottle on the floor proves time travel is possible.

They come apart into manageable pieces quite easily. 2 guys with hand tools and a cordless impact make it as small as you want and much lighter. I did it once in a barnyard alone. I even took the motor apart where I could load it into my truck. You probably want it apart at home anyway so no reason...

Just saw the nuts off. The perches are already trash.

WayneJ wrote: ↑
Mon Dec 15, 2025 11:02 am
Number 14 is a wonderful period image. Based on the landscaping, it would appear this gas station is brand new. It is nice to see it in all its glory. If one could go back in time, it would be wonderful to see it lit up at night.

So where are the pumps?

Eliminate the flea market build. Not a good idea.

As for the crank pin, I drilled the end of my crank, threaded the hole, and installed an Allen set screw. 50 years, and the pin has never moved/ rattled around.

They do make " rivet bolts." They have a rivet head on a bolt. I made my own, but they do exist. It makes that area less congested, and buys time for if/ when you do a frame off.

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑
Sat Dec 13, 2025 7:10 pm
Are Model Ts allowed at Pebble Beach?

If invited.

Jack only made small drum RM. For 26-27 he made the AC units.

They used cast iron drums.

My first $13.00 plate from 1975.

Needless to say, DMV rejected me reusing it later.

I just feel closer to the drain than the faucet.

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Cam adjusts for drum in or out. On Jack's, you shim the bracket in or out.

Post a picture where the fixed post is on the end. Originals have adjustment, Jacks were fixed.

Original Smith wrote: ↑
Fri Dec 12, 2025 11:12 am
Those are Jack Sunderlin reproductions.

I was thinking that as well.

Still clearly a deal.

Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑
Fri Dec 12, 2025 11:08 am
Picture #1: The driver, still oddly unable to get a date.

Billy Poohbah

Only old timers will get that one.

George House wrote: ↑
Tue Dec 09, 2025 4:00 pm
That thang just needs a starter, generator, water pump and distributor !!………….

…Just funnin, of course. That’s the most beautiful T I’ve ever seen and could stand and look at it for hours. Thanks for sharing.

… and an outside oil line ! ;o)

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Combine them. LOL

The open valve engines and drivetrains on the very early T’s should be left as is. It’s hard enough to find an open valve engine itself besides adding upgrades to it. I have 3 T’s in the so called black era and that era of T’s might be better to experiment with but not the brass era cars and especi...

I would get a starter engine complete, swap it out, and save the 09 engine for the next guy.

Easy enough to convert back later.

If you can't fix it, its not broken.

Original Smith wrote: ↑
Sat Dec 06, 2025 1:07 pm
For those with a late 1924-25, in Oct 1924 a diffuser was cast into the hogshead to help direct oil back down into the bands. I wonder how many know this? It is in the service bulletins.

Since I have one on my car, I know.

I'll take a set

One things for sure. That assembly is the one thing that spews oil/ grease everywhere under the hood.

I agree with Jerry. In a parade, you pull the brake levers to neutral, and pump low all day. As long as that washing machine is churning, oil is everywhere. These cars were not driven with kid gloves. I only ever saw one bronze yoke worn badly. It could have had a gazillion miles, and still worked. ...

18/2 gauge 300 volt

KimDobbins wrote: ↑
Thu Dec 04, 2025 1:08 pm
wish I wound have seen that, could have used that on my motorized KRW HCCT. Guess im one of the 7.4%.

Kim, I may have a roll of that same twisted pair.

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John responded first. Item is sold.

60 rpm on a vfd will most likely cog.

Brand new bronze gear by Dan Mc Eachern.
Still sealed in bag. I just do not need it now.

$200 new. $150 shipped to lower 48.

Check or PayPal is fine. Email or PM via forum.

Mark,
Set a set of loom clips aside. I'll call Weds for other stuff.Jeff

I just use two blocks of wood.

Your golden. Drive it.

Rich P. Bingham wrote: ↑
Sun Nov 30, 2025 8:50 pm
Do the repro “spuds” even have a screen over the outlet fitting ? Replacement lead washers are a problem too !

Yes, and I don't know how they make any money on it.

Chaffin has the lead washers.

Original Smith wrote: ↑
Sun Nov 30, 2025 3:42 pm
If the repro sediment bulbs are so good, why don't they offer the part with the screen in it to us>

I would imagine the same reason RM brake springs are only sold in sets.

The bolts supply the ground. Jamb a star washer under the heads. Don' t reuse star washers though.

Your old positive terminal on top might be whacko as well.

Has anyone ever set up a pointer/ mark on a T motor for TDC? Just asking, since I use a Bosch front plate.

I'll take that Mark.

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Kevin. What spark plugs did you use? Just curious.

I'll know soon enough about it. Maynard will be all over it. He's done Motorcycle heads forever.

I'll take those please.

There ya go.

BE_ZERO_BE wrote: ↑
Mon Nov 24, 2025 5:54 pm
I have used both Sherman and Z heads.
I would give a slight edge to the Sherman head on performance.
I had to use the hottest plugs I could find to keep them from fouling.

Thank you. That's good to know.

I just horse traded for this head. What's the good, bad, or ugly about it?
What 14mm plug would you try first?
I have a low head on the car now, but would like a little more " thump."
I also have a Z head , but leaning this way.

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑
Mon Nov 24, 2025 12:14 pm
Henry would be proud!

Henry would sue him.

Got jumper cables? Clamp ground on battery to starter mounting bolt, and try again.
Same? Then clamp the other cable on batt pos and hit the starter terminal.
You'll find the issue pretty quick.

Can't beat that with a sharp stick. I'll order a set tomorrow. Jeff

It takes 10 minutes to remove the mats and floorboards , and reinstall them after

Changing bands in a finished car is the best selling point for Kevlar. At 6'3", its just flat horrible.

rickd: Thanks. I'm still trying to find someone who has installed Rootlieb rear fender and been able to connect to apron with a bracket. The fenders seem to curve back away from the apron where to "V" point is about an inch away from the apron. The successful assemblies in this thread are with orig...

plonkarchivist wrote: ↑
Wed Jan 31, 2024 11:41 pm
You might have to bend the end slightly for the ear to snap over the post under tension, similar to what is done with later demountable band ear tabs onto the band.

That's your first post here?

Moxie26 wrote: ↑
Wed Nov 19, 2025 2:11 pm
Your phone is adjustable, just go to settings and put in your preference.

It looks like this.

My old friend turns 90 today. Happy birthday Glen.

Sold to John

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This would tie into the Railroading crowd.

3m weatherstrip adhesive works as well. Glue them on and wait a day. The gap is down as stated.

Take it off and lay it on a flat floor. You'll see it.

Flea Bay is a crap shoot. People that don't know what they have can be a bargain.

Some people see Model T and think its worth 10000% of what it is.

Soak them in oil a few days. They will work just fine. Look real deal to me.

Sold to Kevin.

I used a reversed eye on the main leaf. I have long forgot who did it. Drops the car maybe 1-2" in back.

Works just fine.

Yes, it clicks. I will test it tomorrow per request.

It would do better at Scottsdale.

Bump to the top

Bump to the top

I would install 4 spacers to leave an air gap underneath.

The pan MUST be straight.

The bearing needs to be dialed in when the engine is on a stand VERTICAL.

Cranks break when these two important steps are skipped.

The water outlet gasket does not see pressure. Any decent gasket is fine.

I belong to many car forums, and even moderated one. These survive on sponsors, and one is sole owner. If i may suggest, keep the forum a separate entity. Make it pay for itself. Solicite Ford for a sponsorship, or perhaps a grant. Good publicity for USA 250th birthday. Tax deductible. Stress that w...

If it ain't broken.......

Caveat emptor.

If you want to promote this seemingly dying hobby, making it a members only club will finish it off. My 2 cents.

RajoRacer wrote: ↑
Sat Oct 25, 2025 11:45 am
I've found that the handles are not interchangeable.

Yes sir.

Nice looking P/U.

20251026_110102.jpg 20251026_110048.jpg Allow me to clarify. The taper of the shut off from an iron unit is about 6-7*, using trig since we don't have an optical comparator. The brass unit pictured has a stronger angle, more like 10*. I was going to rebuild it, paint it black, but I have the incorr...

Restoration supply should have those.

TRDxB2 wrote: ↑
Thu Oct 23, 2025 12:53 am
...............................

That's the rare one.

Click on photo. Hit edit. Resize to 80 %. It will load.

The brass units appear to have a stronger angle.

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