MTFCA Forum

4 Layer Semi Custom Fit Car Cover for Ford Model T 1914-1927, Lightweight Water Resistant. Used twice. Bought it in July. asking $40.00 Buyer is responsible for shipping costs.

This is not a Canadian car - it came with records showing it spent some time in Buenos Aires Argentina, where someone cut out the left door pattern. I remade a new left door and I find it's really handy when working under the dash.

SOLD 1922 Touring Fully restored 1922 Ford Model T Touring. SOLD 10/08/24

Fully restored 1922 Ford Model T Touring.

SOLD 10/08/24

I used the ECKLERS Model T Crankcase Outside Oil Line Kit Accessory, 1909-1925 - $49.99. Looks like the same one from the other suppliers but half the cost.

Closing up this case - Thanks to all for the help with plastigauge- By no. 4 connecting rod it I think I finally got the rhythm down... but overall It's a good day's job. The engine knocking ended up being worn no. 1 and 2 connecting rod bearings, probably due to oil starvation while climbing our hi...

Finally closing this case up - Engine knocking ended up being worn no. 1 and 2 connecting rod bearings, probably due to oil starvation while climbing our hill. No. 1 was a bit over 0.003 in - no 2 about 0.002 - 3 and 4 were also a bit off- but less than 0.002 to start- Took all down to 0.0015 - A bi...

Greetings all - Finally wrapping this one up - Got the CORRECT Screws from Lang's (Thanks to all for your help with that ! ) Worked great! No real issues but used thread locker and thanks for the tip about a wrench on my square screwdriver - I've done that before - but it's one of those many things ...

Hi - Sorry, I failed to mention that the image I posted of a starter is not my starter. Mine is new. This image came to me from Lang's tech support, after I asked where, exactly, the 10-32 screws go.

Just following up on the difference between 5060 and 5059RE. here is where the 5060 (10-32) screws go. It was entirely my FUBAR to order these - The description was "Set of 4 small screws that mount the rear end cap to the starter motor housing. Steel" As pointed out by a few of you- the correct 14-...

Good feedback and ideas!

Perfect! THANK YOU !

0.0015 it shall be-

and 100% agree on the oil tube - I live on a steep hill and it takes a good 5 minutes in low gear at maybe 5 mph to get home, so I also bought the Model T Crankcase Outside Oil Line Kit from Ecklers. that's next.

Its the weekend, time to get greasy... I have an engine knock on my 22T- so I pulled each plug wires individually and seems like its coming from No. 1. So, I pulled the pan and I'm using plastigague to check the clearance. First pass came with no deformation at all, so I know the gap is greater than...

You got what you ordered - starter end cap screws. You should have ordered - "5059RE, replacment style bendix cover screws." "Correct #14 x 24 threaded slotted screws for bendix cover. Has a .030" bigger diameter head than the stock screws." $.85 each. This is why this site is so great. THANKS! The...

Hi all, just when you thought it was safe to go back in the water... along comes another shark - So, I ordered Lang's p/n 5060 Screws, Starter rear end cap to motor housing, Included Items: ___4: 5060-I Screws, Starter ear end cap to motor housing... Wouldn't you know it- they were 10-32 x 3/8 screw...

Well, good decision on the screws. However, red locktite is "permanent" Removing the screws will require heat. Torch. Not good. Use blue in this application if you must. Better, Use a little ultra black. Thats the best gasket sealer for the gasket anyway. If you want to reuse the gasket the next ti...

Great conversation- thanks again all - I am always amazed at the depth of knowledge on Ford T's... At this point- I 100% agree its 14-24 --- I am abandoning my SHCS idea though in favor of "Keep It Simple Sheridan" - So - solution? - I just bought a set of shiny new slotted screws from Langs. Given ...

Is this a common problem with these screws? Getting back to your replies - 14-24 is a definite possibility but my thread tools don't have that one and that's also a bit off the path... I may have found an answer though. going back to the military supplier - I just found a 1/4-24 x 1/2 in match https...

Ok - this is a new one - and I may be getting too picky... Regrettably I trusted lock washers and I neglected to put thread locker on the slotted screws for my starter rear cover. The rattling noise and oil pouring out was my first clue. One of the screws is lost forever - and these slotted screws a...

Thanks Jerry- Currently it knocks at idle - I will pastigaugue both rod and main and hopefully it's just a matter of removing a few shims ... given the frequency is in time with every power stroke I am thinking rod bearing - but I can see how it could transfer the impulse to the main also if the rod...

Hi John - Thanks for the reply- Today I did pull the plug wires and no. 1 is definitely the source of the knock ... I should have mentioned this before but the knock frequency was in sync with a single piston power stroke ... ... about the 'adapter' between the top outlet and head- (see image). I ha...

Hello all - I wanted to update this post on the car - Thanks to all your good advice - I managed to find a terrific radiator shop here in the SF Bay Area. Its B&M Radiator - (42450 Blacow Rd, Fremont, CA 9453) The owners name is Grant. Great ol' guy... and I was surprised when I asked if he ever did...

Martin, that vehicle is hardly an ambulance. Patients to be carried in it would have to be ambulent, so are more like passengers. There is no way a stretcher would fit in that vehicle. The real ambulances built on a T car chassis had a considerable overhang at the rear to make them long enough to a...

Bit of a stretch, but would an ambulance be considered a type of a 'truck'? The definition of a truck is a large, heavy motor vehicle used for transporting goods, materials, or troops...

I agree, anything other than solder is a temporary repair, but in a pinch I have successfully used JB Weld on occasion and it holds well sometimes for years... If you are not comfortable soldering it yourself, a local radiator shop should take care of it... you might also think about getting it rodd...

Update for the day: For the overheating: Found an excellent radiator repair shop here in the SF Bay area - who is very experienced with T's. I knew my radiator was not stock - but as it turns out it' has a 6.5 inch top tank - as opposed to the stock version. I gather larger tanks were made in some C...

So what changed with the overheating? Was this a recently rebuilt engine? I agree with all who say it could be almost anything- My last very annoying noise ended up being the thrust bushing in the differential - ($$$) after that, it was a loose aftermarket crankshaft fan pulley... it's entirely a pr...

I, and many others, have never needed an electric fan. By now millions of people have driven millions of perfectly stock T's millions of miles without overheating. I wonder what has happened in the last 100 years. I do agree- but radiators do fail --- a new radiator cost over $1000- a new fan cost ...

Just throwing this out there into the ether, about 30+40% of heat transfer in an engine is through the exhaust & cooling system and supposedly another 30+% of fuel is used in the cooling of the engine. Any chance you have an obstruction in the exhaust manifold and/or the rest of the exhaust system?...

Thank you all for the good advice. When the engine was rebuilt it was done by a professional, seasoned, model T expert who I trust 100%. All tolerances and specifications were met. We did have a bit of a struggle with the number 1 piston but clearances were all measured and met spec. I now think the...

great advice- thanks!

Greetings all, I find myself looking for your advice once again. My 22 T has fundamentally a fully rebuilt engine (new aluminum pistons, rings, and plastigauge rod and main journals) with a rebuilt carb, and a new BOSCH distributor, etc. She starts up quickly and runs smoothly but after about 20 min...

closing the books on this one --- 4th main was badly worn, U joint rattled, and most importantly - the differential was a total mess- Roller bearings, thrust spacers, pretty much everything- Thankfully, I was able to get Pete Rich, in Norther California, to do a full overhaul of it. He found dozens ...

Morning all - The dif removal was about 2 hrs, and like you said- kind of a fun challenge. The no. 4 measured 1.590 in - Standard is 1.560 so about 30 thou out- The U joint was also pretty sloppy. Getting a full overhaul of the dif and torque tube- through u joint- along with new no. 4 I'll update a...

Well - I pulled the rear axle assembly. Really not half as bad as I thought it would be - (maybe 2-3 hrs) The result is that the 4th main and universal joint are clearly worn out. A lot of play and rattle. Since I've come this far- and the engine and trans has already been gone through 100% I guess ...

Greetings all - THANK YOU! for all the great advice and information. I've opened up the ball, and top inspection lid- and I'm now focusing on the 4th main - one thing I neglected to mention- that I should have -was it does have a regular oil leak at the ball - Also - when I pulled the engine I don't...

Hello again T Owners, My T has a VERY loud grinding noise coming from the transmission area only when in 'hi gear' ... Its frequency is in sync with the engine RPM - Now, the engine runs fine, and the transmission has new bands, a new brake drum and the clutch plates were replaced and all adjusted ...

Hello again T Owners, My T has a VERY loud grinding noise coming from the transmission area only when in 'hi gear' ... Its frequency is in sync with the engine RPM - Now, the engine runs fine, and the transmission has new bands, a new brake drum and the clutch plates were replaced and all adjusted ...

You only need to slip the driveshaft back about 6 inches to get the U joint out of the front spline. And you can take out the two plugs over the back end of the U joint and with a punch shove out the pin and then slide the U joint forward to remove it. First inspect the joint and try rotating it wh...

general reply to all:
thanks for all the advice- I'll start pulling things apart withing the next few days and report on what I find.

Hello again T Owners, My T has a VERY loud grinding noise coming from the transmission area only when in 'hi gear' ... Its frequency is in sync with the engine RPM - Now, the engine runs fine, and the transmission has new bands, a new brake drum and the clutch plates were replaced and all adjusted ...

You only need to slip the driveshaft back about 6 inches to get the U joint out of the front spline. And you can take out the two plugs over the back end of the U joint and with a punch shove out the pin and then slide the U joint forward to remove it. First inspect the joint and try rotating it wh...

Remove the large grease cup unit. You will have some visual access thru the 1/4" pipe thread hole. Next step would be to remove the 4 ball cap bolts & slide the flange back. That will give you access to a larger 3/4" hole. You will be able to see all 4 joints (as the rear wheels are rotated) & eval...

If you remove the 4 bolts that hold the ball socket retaining ring in place, and slip the ring back, it will expose a hole in the torque tube ball that will be a pretty good "window" to peek at the u-joint. You could also just remove the large grease cup and look through its mounting hole, but it's...

Strange as this may sound, have you removed the grease cup or the little plug and peeked inside the ball as best you can? To see if there's ANY evidence of much grease? Or even stick a thin screwdriver or wire in to see/feel for any? Reason I say this, the U joint is often neglected even when peopl...

The sounds you hear could be coming from a few sections of the drive train.... ring & pinion gear noise from worn bushings, worn roller bearings, worn ball cap bushing, worn drive shaft bushing, engine with misaligned engine pan. U-Joint inspection involves ball cap bolt removal and disconnecting f...

Hello again T Owners, My T has a VERY loud grinding noise coming from the transmission area only when in 'hi gear' ... Its frequency is in sync with the engine RPM - Now, the engine runs fine, and the transmission has new bands, a new brake drum and the clutch plates were replaced and all adjusted b...

Here is something else to check, Martin. I had similar symptoms when going into high on my first drives. I had a badly worn front drive shaft bushing. The noise was from the driveshaft bouncing inside the bushing. I replaced the bushing and that fixed it. It's easy to check the bushing's condition....

Thanks all for the good advice - I' went ahead and readjusted all late yesterday and will do another test run later- In the meantime, I'll check the drive shaft bushing- Does anyone know of any simple way of checking for problems with the pinion gear in the dif? The wheels and brakes are new - and w...

Here is something else to check, Martin. I had similar symptoms when going into high on my first drives. I had a badly worn front drive shaft bushing. The noise was from the driveshaft bouncing inside the bushing. I replaced the bushing and that fixed it. It's easy to check the bushing's condition....

Kerry wrote: ↑
Tue Dec 12, 2023 4:21 pm
It's the diff. top gear is direct drive, no gear train.

dang! you are right about that...
Will update soon

Happy holidays all! After 3 and a half years my 22 Touring barn find restoration project is finally on filed trials! Here's my problem - and some of this may be band adjustments and 'pilot error'... i.e. I'm teaching myself how to drive one by way of Youtube videos. Reverse is fine - and from dead s...

Thank you both-
Fortunately, I do have the old fenders, and I now think I can figure them out. YES ! The angle is the key...

Hi - Finally at the point of assembling my Rootlieb fenders using the brackets I removed from the original fenders. I've seemed to mix up the front vs. the rear brackets. I cannot seem to find replacement brackets on the usual sites but I did see brackets showing Front pair and rear pair on EBAY. To...

Sorry for the late response- Thanks for the help - It's starting to look a bit more like a seat -

Greetings all. Like the fool that I am, I did not take enough pictures of the car when I tore the original upholstery out of my 22 Touring barn find. Guess I was too busy chasing all the spiders and mice out of it to think about it. The front seat bottom edge was badly rusted, and I replaced all tha...

Martin - a suggestion: as suppliers and products ebb and flow, it might be in your best interest NOW to contact your supplier and buy ANOTHER gear and keep in your "stuff" for the day when you perhaps put in a new cam and find that this gear is now no longer viable as modified...how many folks wish...

Good news everyone ! I was able to use a carbide tip hole saw from Amazon ($16.00) to counterbore the block roughly 1/8 in. Then I cut solid 1.125 tubing (Don't laugh, but bathroom drain pipe tubing was an exact fit) and then I used a combination of the flat washers, and the stock 'o ring style' cop...

Good news everyone!

The annealing, heli-coiling, and heat treating worked. All fits well and it started in just a few turns...

Thank you all once again for your terrific help and advice.

Hi Martin, This is not as bad as you think, not good but? A American Bosch drive has a spacer, gear & nut for the cam gear, the size of the nut would be insequencial. You have been lucky enough to pick up a Texas T distributer that I'm sure can be returned if purechased from a vender. Or tradeded i...

well - the fun just keeps coming - Today's update: 7/26/2023 The DELCO REMY Distributor had moved to the growing pile of spare parts - I Bought a new Texas T distributor kit from CHAFFINS GARAGE ( a great supplier!!! ) and got it in 2 days - with a tons of help and support. Regrettably - A NEW PROBL...

I gather from reading some of the posts that reference centrifugal auto timing advance distributors modified to fit the T are temperamental -
May be manual advance seems to be the simplest solution for now? Any opinions?

Hi Martin, For future refference try leaving the drive pin out & the nut loose on the cam enough that the cam gear will spin freely. Then test the gear mesh by spinning the distributer shaft both directions to figure out the lash. I like distributers that have a plug in them so you can see the gear...

Quick update- Thanks again one and all for your help with this- Dan - You were exactly right- this entire distributor conversion was a total hack job from the get go- It was a miracle it ran in the first place- Unfortunately - My last effort ended in disappointment- Since I couldn't find replacement...

THANK YOU DAN for your link! - The Gear image with the keyway looks like the CAM gear - with 11 teeth, left hand crossed type - any clues where that gear came from? Was it from a JEEP ? For the DISTRIBUTOR - I now believe that Delco Remy reused the distributor gear that came with the Chevy 635B dist...

Yes. A company called Klaxton ( yup... the guys who also sold alarm bells) Bundled the chevy distributor into a kit for model Ts. Langs still sells the installation pamphlet ...(which I have) see https://www.modeltford.com/item/DR1.aspx It worked and there are a few posts on this forum from people w...

Greetings - New problem for the day - The pin for the Cam to Distributor gear sheered- and the gears are badly worn. I am now trying to find a source for the distributor and cam gear set for a DELCO REMY 635B - Snyders and Langs only carry Bosch and Atwater Kent- and none of those look like the gear...

Thanks Scott and Pat for the ideas. Unfortunately, I need some type of counterbore (CB) to seat the center tube - The surface of no. 1 and 4 is so badly eroded that the CB is barely present at the top of the hole. (see sketch and image) - If I cut down 2 and 3 I still have the interface issue with 1...

Well - the verdict is close to in and things are not looking good for this engine - I've tried the cut solid tubes - split rings, copper gaskets, copper rings, and the expensive single piece copper rings- Sadly, the block surface is so badly eroded and worn out of plane that I just cannot get any ty...

A truly lively discussion and thank you all - The image of the fixture helped - I now understand and appreciate the point made by Alan - (Thanks again !) Today I took my shiny new steel ruler to illustrate the alignment of the ports on the manifold and block - (see images below) The manifold ports a...

Hi Alan. Thanks. I neglected to point out that all the ports do all align well with the block... fitting it together has not been a problem. I have put it all together twice. First , with the split steel rings and a flat copper gasket .. then with the one piece copper rings. Thecproblem is a leak at...

I really like the shim idea! Thank you. For the 'gland' center tube - I can cut 1.25 in, OD thin wall steel (0.048) to slightly longer than the .33 in. single piece copper rings- For the 'shims' I'm going to first try stacking and if necessary lap copper 'crush washers' - These are flat - and would ...

I really like the shim idea! Thanks. I can cut the exhaust tube to fit no.1 and machine copper to take up the space that was ground down and make it all co planar to the rest of the block. I can gasket between the block and the shim and then gasket between the manifold and shim. With respect to the ...

With the block in that condition, I don’t think a new manifold will help. This may seem crazy, but what about grind some on the block— maybe an eight and the rest on the manifold, to where it fits. OR maybe bolt the manifold up, heat that baby red hot and gently pull it in. When I was a kid, I’d re...

Thank you one and all for the great advice. Its all very helpful and much appreciated. I couldn't get this far without this form... Regrettably, not great news with today's update. On the manifold; I placed a straight edge on the surfaces and all appears aligned (???) On the bad side - I also placed...

Greetings all- I have a couple things I am hoping I can get some advice on - NO. 1 is about exhaust gaskets and NO. 2 is about the exhaust gland nut... WHERE IT ALL STARTED... I recently pulled the head and exhaust manifold on my engine for some repairs. The original exhaust gaskets were T-3063-CR s...

Thanks again !

Thank you. I had seen that in my research - the question I guess I should of asked was what about the hood shelf, hood shelf blocks, and fender stack up? I can't find a good illustration of how those all fit together. I don't think they can stack up with the radiator spring caps- subassembly.

Greetings all - Today I'm struggling with the radiator mounts. I'm trying to find some cross section diagram or photos of how the radiator stud mount, springs, cups, radiator shell, hood shelf wood blocks, hood shelf and fenders all stack together in a 1922 (this one is a Touring) Any and all help i...

Thank you!
Using the fender mounting holes answers the question perfectly and it makes so much sense.
Have a great day and stay dry in Mi.

Greetings After 3 years and a near infinite amount of money I am finally closing in on getting my 23 Touring on the road! This project was a barn find / basket case and it came with a pair of front bumper mounting brackets from Lang's https://www.modeltford.com/item/2950.aspx Although these go on 26...

just had a very similar problem with my no. 1 piston - ended up being the piston wrist pin - as the aluminum piston heated up the hole got larger and the wrist pin knocked more -

Check that internal oil line. (it looks like a piece of copper tubing in a picture). I wonder whats going on with that. # 1 rod & piston are the first to fail under a lack of oil. Part of the why or one bore too tight? you nailed it - Took it to Dave Rich in Forestville yesterday (excellent T machi...

Thank you all again for the great advice. I think I may have found the culprit - The attached image is of No. 1 piston - Its scored and the bottom of the cylinder is also scored - the wrist pin slides very easily - with lots of play- No. 2,3,and 4 pistons are not that bad... and those pistons and cy...

Yes, there's lots to think about here. For starters, when you eventually disassemble it all, take those pieces of sheet metal on the rod cap bolts, that are apparently intended to scoop oil, and throw them in the trash. Also, if you remove the clamp bolts that hold the wrist pins in place, do NOT d...

In your second picture, one of the bolts is broken off or sawed off right where the cotter pin goes through. I wonder whether that bolt was hitting something and was sawed or broken off? Another thing to check since you have the head off is whether the piston tops might be hitting the head or the g...

Martin- before we go any further, how about posting what you intend to do with the car once it's running good. For example- do you plan on showing the car, making it a fun driver- possibly touring with it, selling it, etc. That might make a difference. hi - sorry for late reply - this is to be a fu...

If there is NO scoring or aluminum deposited, we rule out seizing pistons. Use a mirror & check em all well. Only takes one piston. If the wrist pins are too tight, you should see heat discoloration on the wrist pin bosses. Look @ all 8. When you removed the rod cap, did you move the crank out of t...

some images

Hi Martin, This is were a picture is worth a 1000 words, take pics of everything before you take it apart. Most of the time rods are not symmetrical so if the cap is on backwards it will be tighter than the right way. Dont force it. Was there plenty of oil in the dips when you dropped the inspectio...

Greetings all - .. Here is today's update: Today I pulled the head, oil pan, valve cover and trans inspection plate. To my total amazement it all looks great as if it had been recently overhauled. The cylinders are Aluminum and the cylinder walls are smooth with no marks whatsoever- There was no...

thank you all very much for the help. These suggestions are all encouraging and I'm learning a lot (part of the fun of owning a T) Today or tomorrow I'll pull the head and pan and do a full inspection and update this post... In the meantime: I see replacement rods and bearing kits? any opinions abou...

It has a splash system for oiling, which includes an oil pipe from the flywheel area up to the timing cover area, which assures that oil will reach the rod troughs in the pan along with the timing gears. The main source of oil for the cylinders is oil picked up from the troughs by the rods and thro...

That's a little odd. If it gets louder as the engine runs, then the engine "slows to a stop", it might be a piston seizing. It's possible the engine is not oiling properly due to a restricted oil pipe or some other issue, such as rust in the bore from any of several causes. It could be related to f...

Hello all, I finally got my 22 touring barn find running today. It starts ok its firing on all cylinder well but it has a clear knock. The knock is in time with one of the pistons and it gets progressively louder as it heats up. After a few minutes it gets VERY loud and the engine slows to a stop. t...

Thanks again to all - This site is great! quick update: It looks like the thread on the T radiator cap is is 2" 20 TPI - The model A thread is 2.25"-18 TPI - so regrettably that may not work - Drilling the hole in my existing cap is a good option! get's me the temperature - which is the higher prior...

Aftermarket eah? Makes sense with this car- Its a bit like the Johnny Cash Cadillac song ..."one piece at a time"... resourceful mechanics in Argentina... Thanks for clearing this up! I'll find a way to hack it in somehow - might just machine a simple adapter ---

Have a good one - to all

hope this helps

Greetings! Last Christmas my wife bought me a fancy radiator temperature gauge, radiator cap with wings and a chrome radiator cover for my 22 T... She's always trying to make the T look like a deluxe limousine and far be it to me to argue with her at this point , ) The cap has yet to arrive, but whe...

Thank you all for the links- About it being the one in the article, strangely enough the few pieces of paper I have show it entering the states around 1977. All paperwork before that show it as being in Buenos Ares. I'll write Daniel Bollo and ask for more help.

Greetings, I am restoring a 1923 Model T Touring that came out of Argentina. When I got it, it was painted yellow and had some significant body damage. Since then, I've stripped it down to the bare metal on all the skins and I've only found traces of a green and a red (primer?) I have not found any ...

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