MTFCA Forum

Thanks. I looked em up. Quite inexpensive.

Are currently available battery cutoff switches really good enough to carry the high amp loads of a 6V system? What size are the terminal studs? 3/8"? A fellow member has burned out/melted a few. Are there cheap/lite weight units to avoid? Are there preferred styles? Is the Langs unit adequate & rel...

One of our smarter guys had an interesting idea.
Check to see if 1 & 2 timer wires were mixed up.
Those 2 cylinders not firing @ the right time?
You did Change the timer.

Let us know when you find out.

Re: OCMTFC SWAPMEET 7:00 AM tomorrow. All systems are a go. See you there.

7:00 AM tomorrow. All systems are a go. See you there.

Where is the hi speed needle set? S/B 1 1/4 turns open.
Consider a rear port vacuum leak. Carb gets set extra rich to run those 2 cylinders while flooding out the front cylinders.

Test the plugs under pressure. You could try gapping the plugs to .024". Do a compression test. You switched the plugs, did you switch coils around? I would spray brake clean or starting fluid around the intake manifold looking for vacuum leaks. Fuel level is easy to check on a G in the car. Remove ...

What you are doing has been done. Search in past posts.

Armature gets growler tested. If bad, it needs rewind. No need if it passes the tests.
I wouldn't have removed the fields unless they also failed the test.
They are different than original. May have been replaced @ one time.

During a tour, we had a modern following with their emergency flashers on.
CHP pulled her over & gave a harsh warning about driving with hazard lights on.

Those are not T armatures. You may not need a new armature. Service manual has a good section on testing & trouble shooting. If you are not capable, there are re builders that frequent this forum & can provide a rebuilt unit. If you find a local guy, maybe he will do the necessary repairs without a ...

You have a broken brush holder. It could be grounding out now. & its filthy with carbon dust.
I wouldn't waste my time installing before a tear down/rebuild.

My preferences.
Valvoline racing 30 wt. Any good detergent 30 wt will do.
Water soluble oil for the radiator in distilled water. Sold @ auto parts stores as "anti rust & water pump lube."

Buckle up. Many opinions coming.

Does the T & the gun come with her?
Makes a difference.

Yes................

The guys I know that use felt & RTV, Work it in/on completely into the felt. It's a messy job, but seals well if the thing doesn't slip during installation. Put a thin coat of oil on the HH mating surface so it will release the next time you remove it.

The pictures of the bed & fender (especially #3) look like the bed is to low & the fenders bent down to fit.

Improved T NH carbs had a larger than normal float to work with the extra head pressure.
Maybe a contributing factor, although a lot of improved T's out there are running satisfactorily with the earlier float.

Dont worry about advance. You will have plenty if you have the correct retard starting position.
At least, thats been my experience. I run a new day & have enough travel to overadvance with the spark lever all the way down.
Initial timing setting was way off & needed obvious correcting..

Classified.

No. Spark lever@ the column connection is around .75" . Timer leverage is around 2". thats a 3x movement loss by design. Make sure there is no movement loss in the lever connection to the rod. (tightly pinned). Secondly original new day timers have an extra large linkage hole. A hobby tubing bushing...

One week from today.
Will have coffee & donuts early.
Will have brats with chips & sodas for lunch.
Friendly T meet with 20-30 venders.
Lots of good stuff changes hands.

So the presumption is the short switch was used on enclosed cars. Open cars have a switch extension. What about the tall switch? Looked @ a few T's I have easy access to. 23 touring uses a short switch with the extension. 27 coupe uses the tall switch. With the thick carpet, the switch is well place...

I have seen new wheels that had the tubes made from copper tubing. (Stutzman?)
Ask him directly.

I thought Bill's billet wheels were 21".
I cant confirm via his website. Contact him.

Couldn't key tumblers be reproduced via 3d printing??

Yes. I do. Contact me thru the forum.

If you think about it, the difference between a high and low head, from a functional standpoint, is the size of the water jacket/cooling passages. As your engine produces more power, it has more heat to get rid of, so a high head makes more sense from a reliability perspective. That's probably why ...

BRENT in 10-uh-C wrote: ↑
Wed Sep 24, 2025 3:55 pm
Jim, I feel your pain also, as I too need a Low (hi-compression) Head for a current project. I hate to butcher a firewall just to run one of the high ones being offered.

Maybe this helps.
I am running a low head, milled 1/8" with hi dome pistons. Performs well with 95# compression.

Flyer Master 2025 color (2).pdf: (182.53 KiB) Downloaded 126 times

So Cal SWAP MEET.
Saturday Oct 4.

Flyer Master 2025 color (2).pdf: (182.53 KiB) Downloaded 126 times

Minimal to none.
There are spring steel bearing tensioner spacers available to go under the rear bearing to take away that slop.
You can also drop in an extra generator felt seal in under the bearing that will take out the play.

Why are there 2 different height switches? The short version is about 2" tall from the mounting plate. Early type has 2 screws holding the switch body to the mounting plate.(all short?) The taller version is about 2.5" tall. There are both short & long versions that mount with 4 bent tabs to the mou...

Sweeeeeeeeeeet.

Dan Hatch wrote: ↑
Sun Sep 21, 2025 4:04 pm
When I get a customer with a non starter, I always ask if they want to charge it now. Lot easier now than later.

Smart!. Changing the flywheel during a rebuild makes the conversion easy years later.
The HH can be changed anytime & a starter added.

Good luck!
Love to see pictures of it.

I like mounting a period battery box with a full sized group 1 on the left running board. A stock battery box mount (19-27) can be mounted, especially easy to access in a touring. Roadster would need the trunk floor cut. I do rectify the magneto to keep the battery charged. However, if the battery (...

Ed Fuller wrote: ↑
Sat Sep 20, 2025 11:06 pm
Also, replace the magneto coil with a later one that has the notch for the starter.

No need to replace.
File or grind the notch in the current field coil..

Look thru the HH inspection cover for a ring gear. Maybe the previous owner or later ford mechanic already replaced it. Maybe you got lucky, if not Pull the motor. Replace the flywheel with any later with a ring gear. Replace the HH with a starter compatible 19-25 to retain the correct pedal spacing...

I think Craig hit it. Rims must be round & sit flat before mounting a new tire. I have not had any problems using one rim spreader. Look for past posts on where to mount & how to use. New tires can be tight & need some screwdriver work to get the rim ends to meet. Takes practice & patience. Dont for...

You can change the stock side.
Changing the rux small backing plate is harder to change than replacing the whole tube & backing plate from the later housing.
Better yet, find someone with the large drum rux housing that wants the small brake & do a swap.

High head is 3.97-1. Low head is 4.2-1. That little bit of difference is not worth the using when factoring the lower cooling capacity IMHO. I would strongly recommend spending the money for a Prus head if you want a noticeable power/speed difference. 26-7 heads were slightly less compression than e...

Tim Williams wrote: ↑
Fri Sep 19, 2025 2:05 pm
I love my brassworks radiator, but we need a less expensive alternative especially for speedster people.

Tim

For everybody.

Very nice!

That first letter looks like a T. TIED it is.

Heck914 wrote: ↑
Mon Sep 15, 2025 6:44 pm
Did ACME make hitches? I know there was an ACME machine tool company

They made everything from anvils to roadrunner traps.

I don't believe in Murphy's law.
I do believe in O'Tooles law.
He states that Murphy was an optimist.

How long will a T run on a 6V battery of unknown condition without a full charge? :lol: :lol: :lol: A T with a good full size battery will run a T several days. Add electric starts = less. I can recount a recent experience. During a tour, on the last half of the last day, I noticed my generator wasn...

Have you done a plug short out test @ different speeds? You will find if you have a dead or weak cylinder. Even compression #'s? Any knocks/noises? as in loose rods or mains. A loose flywheel can make her run rough. Run spec is 1800 rpm =45 mph. @ higher rpms, say over 2k you can get a harmonic imba...

I got to look @ a series of shells on cars today. 24 T, 26 TT, 27 T
I can confirm all the high shells have the angled sides, same as a 26-7.
That explains why the #'s are the same. late 23-27 shells are interchangable.

Start with a look @ the service manual. Get the part names correct.
After reading the OP several times, I have no idea what the problem or area is that needs a fixin.

Its a balance issue. Every part needs to be balanced.
Pistons, wrist pins, rods, crank, flywheel, triple gears & each drum plus the output & flywheel must run true.
I have seen a mix of lite & heavy rods.

How much ?? & what kind of wheels?

Dragging clutch. Your compression is low. Should spin real easy.
If leave in gear(brake lever forward) there is generally less drag.
Try starting with one wheel up, in gear. You should notice its easier to crank.

Originally 212.
Currently 7212

DO NOT USE A 6212 (non side load bearing)

I agree the problem presents like a faulty starter but, OP claims the starter is new. The stud should not be an issue.
The definition of "new starter" is not clear however.
New as in a WASP (only new available), fresh rebuild by a reputable guy, or newly picked from the parts shelf.

Any one or combination of "new" parts can be defective, incorrect or just plain crap. Narrow it down. Pull the bendix. With a leather glove, engage the starter & try to stop it. If you can, its a weak starter or power issue. If the starter is strong, its the bendix. New Bendix? what does that mean? ...

I disagree. Already 20 under. +wear?? Offered crank is only .002" larger. Very doable with timesaver.
Bonus: the new bearing surfaces will be 100%.
I have done the same, fitting a 1.250 scat crank to a standard Babbitt block.

I would not pass up this excellent crank.

Yes..............

5 or 6??

FWIW I have mine coming thru the floor board. Knob just above the board.
I didnt want to mutilate an original splash apron.

No need to change hubs, they are the same. Change the brake shoes & drums. You will need the later radius rods, spring perches & parking brake rods. We're it me, I would build a big drum rux. I know its not correct for you, but you get brakes suitable as a service brake. No need for RM brakes & work...

I have restored several different aux T transmissions. Not yours specifically. I prefer Jumbo Giants. They all are very similar in design. Shift forks attached to rods. The rods have detents for large ball bearings pushed by springs to retain their position. (stay in gear selected) In order of failu...

Offer the option of a round piece of drill rod. That's how I make them.

Dan Hatch wrote: ↑
Mon Sep 08, 2025 5:46 pm
Thanks John, I need about 10 sets. Dan

That's what I use. Much improved over stock type.
You are aware the knurled portion has to be taken down a little? Then you have a "pin" tight fit.

Dan Hatch wrote: ↑
Mon Sep 08, 2025 4:15 pm
Anyone know the modern part number for the connecting rod bolts. I think it is a Chevy rod bolt, which one? Thanks Dan

Small block V8 chevy. 350 on down.

Loose lugs look like chebies. Do they say Jaxon? Chev rims valve stem is on the opposite side of a lug to a ford. I dont have a rim I can look @ to confirm.

Go for it.
The less common T versions of T's are more interesting. RHD 4 doors - COOL.
I wonder if that T is the same T the dealer owned & put a later tag on it, maybe for dealership display.
Coincidence or not??

Nice flush system you built. Look into the top radiator tank. You can see a few of the tubes. You can gauge the condition of any build up & if chunks of rust are blocking the tubes. Reverse flush those chunks out. The same or similar setup to pressure flush will do a good job removing those chunks w...

Isnt it interesting, according to the drawing records, that the wide drum was anticipated for some 18 months before the wide drum was used?
Or was the wider brake drum clearance there for ease of narrow band installs thru the inspection cover without thought of a wider drum?

I agree, but have not seen one yet.

No nut. Remove it, find the cotter pin hole & pin it.

Doesn't have to be strong. Filling the worn spot just tightens the potential movement if loose.
Did you deal with the corresponding wear in the DS tube?

It's the can on top of the generator.

How is it that we're suggesting he doesn't have a pan suited for a wide brake? He's changing a band, not putting an engine/transmission together for the first time. So, it has apparently worked just fine prior to this. That's not clear. He claims all his bands were narrow in the past. (first line) ...

Consider green (wicking) locktite.

TMiller6 wrote: ↑
Thu Sep 04, 2025 12:20 pm
I thought all four dip pans had the provision to accommodate the wide brake drum.

If you have a four dip pan, you have the correct pan.

I am not so sure, but have not proved otherwise.
The 4 dip pan came before the wide brake drum.
In theory, there could be 4 dips that wont fit the wide drum.

If a wide band came out, I can't see why a new lining would not go back in. Does you pan have a depression in it to accommodate the wider band? Allan from down under. Never had a problem like you describe. To run the wide band, you need a wide drum, late HH, & 4 dip pan with the formed relief for t...

LittleTimmy52 wrote: ↑
Wed Sep 03, 2025 7:02 pm
My rear spring bushings on one side it looks like the spring hole for the bushing is too big as the bushing went in and out with hand force, as in I can pull it out, this would defiantly spin with use, how might I stop it from spinning?

Make your own from an over sized bronze bushing.

They do not look the same. A battery horn has a large cover on the back.

John- your equalizer assembly was made by me for use with my small drum AC brakes that I reproduced for many years. Just don't want folks to get confused with original versus reproduction parts. Dan Thanks Dan. I appreciate the info. Makes sense being in new condition & came with a set of AC small ...

My "modern" Rocky Mountain brakes have rods with the associated equalizer. If I were to convert "back" to cables, two questions: Did the originals interact with the parking brake, and if so, how? Or since I already have the equalizer installed and linked to the brake pedal and parking brake, should...

Good period picture showing the rear closely following the rear body tub angle.

Rocky Mountain unit.jpeg RM brake linkage 2.jpeg RMbrake linkage.jpeg Rocky Mountai brake drum.jpeg The pedal linkage unit appears to be unused. mounts to pivot from the DS tube. Pedal clamp is 2 pieces cast to clamp onto pedal with 1/4" bolts. Drums are riveted together. Obviously made for a cable...

You can lift the frame & get the front axle to drop, giving you access as the shackles rotate up.
You can assist the process with a big screwdriver or pry bar.
You can install the missing oilers.
A bit of oil on both sides of the spring bushing is good also as TXGOAT mentioned.

Looks like the "oil can" thing is to protect from sucking in trash. The top has an adjusting nut for air intake?. Constant speed boat/canoe motor?

My roadster PU oilers, & my 23, Now that I think of it are tight getting oil into the cups. However with the openings toward the center of the spring, there is enough room to open just enough to get the end of the oil can in. Be sure the oilers were installed all the way in. 26-7 springs are near fl...

John Karvaly---> I will do a careful look-see through the fill hole at the ring gear teeth and if they look good I intend to keep running it as is. If it matters, the overhaul in 2017 was done by Larry Blair at Tin Shed using new parts from Chaffins. Larry is still around. Why not call him? He migh...

Bore scope thru the grease fill plug. Look @ the gear teeth.

Some repair history is in order here. Back in 2017 the rear end exploded due to a split pinion gear caused by disintegrated babbit thrust washers. I had a complete overhaul with new ring & pinion set, new BRONZE thrust washers, new driveshaft, and a new u-joint installed at that time. There is NO i...

Sounds like either a lost Babbitt thrust washer on the left side or the loss/destruction of the pinion bearing & race. The growling is the gear teeth slipping out of mesh. Lift the fear end up on both sides. Check the wheels for in & out movement. There should be very little to none. Best to pull th...

Leaking around the threads or from the crimp of the base to porcelain? Its a mix of fuel & oil before combustion.
Threads can be sealed with a bit of anti seize. I prefer the conductive stuff. Mine is aluminum based.
There is a copper version also.

Oil on the outside of the plugs or inside around the electrode?

I believe ATMS offers both early(small) & later(larger) outer seal caps.

Al that stuff is model A.

Aftermarket bolt/clamp on grease seal cap worn out/thru.

I would not be surprised an inline filter worked on a cowl tank. It USUALLY DOESN’T work… You initially run out of gas with right around 3-5 gallons remaining. And it gradually gets worse. Of course, I defer to those with the experience. There is so much more head pressure with the cowl tank, Ford ...

I have not yet changed the oil. So the question is when I drain the oil, is there a product that can clean up the oil in the transmission (without damage to the parts) where I can use a bore scope type of product to inspect the bottom of the unit? I don't know the history of this car and want to ge...

How do I remove the driveshaft bushing? DIY tool https://modeltfordfix.com/rebuilding-the-drive-shaft/ The tool is made from 1/2″ galvanized pipe, a piece that is 60 inches (5 feet) long. 1/2″ water pipe measures .840″ on its outside diameter, the size designation refers to the inside diameter. The...

Look @ the service manual. The band nut has 2 V detents. The Special washer has a raised bump to hold itself in the nut to maintain the adjustment. That washer has a raised tab that fits into a slot cut into the shaft. (probably on the underside you cant see) The correct washer can be on backwards &...

I believe I built mine from a tinkering tips manual. It consists of a 1/2" pipe cap machined a bit to fit into the base of the bushing & 4 wide notches to clear the rivets. The cap is screwed onto a pipe one foot longer than the drive shaft. Carefully align the cap to clear the rivets & hit the end ...

Under seat vs cowl tank is apples & bananas. I would not be surprised an inline filter worked on a cowl tank.

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