MTFCA Forum

SOLD SOLD SOLD. Pleased to report it went to the son of a fellow enthusiast.
The young man just needs to get his drivers license.
There's a motivator. The club will provide all the support they need.

Lang's shows Commutator wire harness, (5 wire), for cars with electric headlights and no starter, original style. I There is also the wiring harness for timer to coil box (26-7) mounted on the motor. (My first thought) But the wires are different lengths @ the ends, same as you show from langs. Not...

Looks like a 5042 19-25 switch harness, but less wiries. I suspect its 19-25 non generator switch harness.
SWAG. That would explain the fewer wires.

As it happens, I have THE Jensen aluminum head that Kevin Prus used to make the mold he uses for his castings. I had a few thousandths milled off because it was warped but it’s been on my car for several years and it does run better than the Z head. And it has the Ford script on it !! By better do ...

I use the plexiglass sheet method.
I found closer volume readings. Z=223 CC's Prus=220 CC's
I experienced & expect Z head readings to vary a lot between cylinders & different head castings.

I agree to the superiority of the Prus head.

Humblej wrote: ↑
Thu Jan 01, 2026 4:06 pm
It depends...is it a pencil sharpener?

LMAO

Your coil box should have 2 terminals for power in. 1 from the magneto. the second for battery ignition from the battery. Thats a handy spot to put the generator power wire to. Dont mix the 2 terminals up lest you kill the mag. Its a good idea to keep the generator output low in the 4-6 amp range fo...

My experience with these heads is the combustion chambers are of a random volume due to poor casting molds and or poor machining. Both that I installed hit the piston top in 1 or 2 cylinders. First step was to make the chambers the same depth. That process cleared all the pistons. @ that point remov...

Rich P. Bingham wrote: ↑
Tue Dec 30, 2025 7:58 pm
Looks to me like 30x3” clincher

Its a 30 x 3.5". No 30x3 demountables.

The T cooling system is adequate for speeds up to around 50 MPH at temperatures over 100F. The engine will run hotter, but the coolant will not boil. A very long climb or a strong tailwind might cause problems. Higher elevations will lower the boiling point of water, and could lead to issues in mou...

Your profile shows you own a TT. Are you talking about the TT? What you are experiencing seems to be normal pushing a TT with stock gearing this fast. (My last thoughts) My first thought was - are you dealing with a barn find car that was worn out during the depression? A worn out motor putting out ...

Wrice123 wrote: ↑
Sat Dec 27, 2025 8:28 pm
See y’all are so smart! I don’t care what other people say about you! Y’all know your T parts!

Awfully serious support for a battery cable. That was an aftermarket accessory? My ‘20 doesn’t have that.

Not an accessory. Your 20 should atleast have a hole in the frame where it mounted to.

I have a pair pf Lucas named firestone 21's on my 27 RPU. The sidewalls are very thin/soft. Even with 30#'s they look low.
I bought a pair of firestones from summit racing. Cheapest @ the time. $99 each with free shipping & no sales tax. Very good service so far & they look full.

I have used crow foots. My preferred way is to use my 1/2" proto torque wrench. For the 2 rears, I use a long double box wrench on an already torqued bolt to calibrate my pull with that long wrench. Not that I mind owning another neat tool(tool junkie here), but I am running out of room for all but ...

I would run those tires. Seal the cracking sidewalls with vinal top wax. Mop & glow will work also.
This is how I treat my tires. Cracking has not gotten worse since I installed them 15+ years ago.
Keep an eye out for severe cracking & replace if there is a radical condition change.

Fits "model T" is the catch all car for any old parts.
Typical in eBay offerings.
As always, buyer beware.

ok good.... well we are now on the same sheet of music. so I'll keep an eye on that part for where the kingpins drop in and either use Steven's tool on it or just replace it (should thing get to that point). think it will be fine for now. Seems I covered that point way up on my two Oct. 19 threads?...

Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑
Mon Dec 22, 2025 8:35 pm
A lot of T's have wheels that wobble. It comes down to how bad the wobble is. So, how much wobble have you got?

Wouldnt normally be a big problem.
Gotta be a problem with disk brakes.

The late shifter fits earlier rear ends also. The 2 mounting bolts & the 3rd(lock plate) bolts are longer. 164a is the upper notch plate lock bolt. Dont remove it. You could potentially lose the lock plate clocking notches if the plate were to rotate. That could, worst case, require rear end disasse...

I have welded up an arm & remachined oversize to compensate for slight body wear. Thats a bit of a trick. I have done the same thing. It worked well enough, however, in the long run, I ended up buying a reproduction 26/27 shifter assembly from Chaffins. A far better design. The 26-7 shift lock is s...

Hard to believe you can hear a rattling from the shift lock arm while driving. You are more likely hearing the long shift rod hitting something else. Yes the shift lock easily removes from the axle. Removing the axle assembly NOT necessary. Remove the 3 mounting bolts & slide out the unit. Note 1 "b...

"I ponder whether the 12v has too much momentum, so when the starter is disengaged the armature is spinning too fast for the bendix to release." (OP quote) The point of the "bus" modification 12v conversion is to get the starter to turn 1/2 speed on 12v to be equivalent to 6v function. So that aint ...

In my initial post I should have mentioned that I have 4.50X21 dismountable tires & rims so I will need a later year rear spare mount to add to my 1817 car Thanks for the reply's Yes that would have been helpful! You waste a bunch of peoples time/effort answering the wrong question. You are not the...

I own several. Am running one now. No ping issues. Performs well. They were available in different compression ratios. One of my heads is around 8.5-1. (more than I would run @ that compression. Good candidate for 292 pistons) It was obvious to me that the sharp milled edges would be a problem, so I...

Same head cleaned a little.

There is a seal in that cap acting as a secondary air seal for valve core leakage.

There was none. Non-demountable wheels. Aftermarket had tire holders mounting on the left running board.
The fully equipped car carried both different sized, front & rear sized tires.

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑
Thu Dec 18, 2025 11:30 am
Note: I am not the OP of this thread.

A casualty of editing.

You got lucky.
In such a situation when one realizes the ammeter no longer shows a charge, immediately ground the output terminal.
A little hotter & she is burned out.

If similar to a G, set/check the fuel level as you would a G. Fuel level with the top removed. Its Fool proof to get a perfect fuel level setting.
As long as the idle circuit is not plugged, it ought ta work.

Could be the result of grit & oil behind that big steel thrust washer & a lot of run time.
As 1/2 a$$ed as the rest of what we see, I cant believe some skilled machine work was done in the past.

The leather pad will seem too thick because your frame has bolts holding it together instead of the correct rivets. Those bolt heads wont clear the small(rivet) clearance holes. One long thru bolt is way wrong & no flex for the radiator. Get the correct mounting hardware. An aluminum can shim will l...

Depends on how sloppy the pully fits on the crank. I dont have confidence in gluing the pully on with JB. It cant be distributed evenly enough. There is, however a locktite 660 that will fill the gap, designed to activate metal to metal. Designed for shaft wear & bearing fit on motors & industrial e...

Well worth the price. These brakes will lock the rear wheels forward & reverse!
Get a set of Bud Williams drums & you 're golden.
I am surprised they haven't sold yet. If I didnt already have a spare set, they'd be mine.

I have parted out a lot of 26-7 rear ends & not seen anything other than Babbit.

Are you sure about that?? Looks like the bracket attaches @ the small drum brake shoe bolt.

There are 3 bolts that attach the shift lock. (one also locks the inner lock plate) There are 3 distinctly different shift lock housings. Each one has a distinctly different bolt length set. Start by conveying which shift lock you have.

Is not this all TT related?

big2bird wrote: ↑
Fri Dec 12, 2025 12:42 pm

Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑
Fri Dec 12, 2025 11:08 am
Picture #1: The driver, still oddly unable to get a date.
Billy Poohbah

Only old timers will get that one.

I protest! I ain't that old. At least I don't identify as that old.

33,795 Pickup beds appears to apply to TT trucks the way I read it. This # is in the Truck production section. The pickup bed being one of several options behind the open or closed cab. Adding the cabs & deducting the bed options results in 270 units, presumably TTs sold without a bed option? Cab & ...

Could that include TT beds also?

Maybe. Depends on the water pump. I would remove the pump. My bias.
I might suggest you install the new radiator & run it with the pump. If you have a hint of not cooling as it should, remove the pump out of necessity.

Grease it. EP molly in all the ball joints.

What's a wheel spreader? Spoke jack? rim spreader? or something else?

BillM wrote: ↑
Sun Dec 07, 2025 6:01 pm
What are the correct bridge washers?

See above Jelf pix.

Is the bendix cover an original? Repop covers are smaller ID & if not centered can be hit by the head of the drive head bolt.
Try a brief crank with the cover removed to exclude the cover.
Briefly is key in that you will dump a lot of oil thru the missing cover opening.

I have seen these drive plates with 3 1" welds between the shaft flange & plate.
I like the added rigidity. Those few cracks become irrelevant.
Used drive plates are still plentiful enough @ swap meets for $10.

Bump for a sweet roadster.

Here is what I did with mine as I didn’t have time to experiment before putting my engine together. I bought 1/4” thick magnets, and 1/2” thick spacers to make the total distance match stock. My goal was not to reduce weight but to create a mag that wouldn’t lose its charge over time. Works well.IM...

The "brush", point activator is a score. They are often missing. Special to that timer.

1.5V @ 60 rpm isn't enough to start with the hand crank.
1500 rpm calculates to 37.5V. You really seeing that?

The eccentric is not threaded for the fan shaft. The drawing above is correct. Note that the fan shaft sticks out further than the pulley end bushing. That provides the space for the felt washer. The felt retaining washer fits tight to the eccentric & fan shaft, locking the shaft. The bushings could...

B1 is a common Briggs key blank #, not a # to denote the teeth pattern.
For example, my locking gas cap key is a B1.

Thanks! Great info guys! OK no neutral tow. I imagine if that keyway on the wheel hub ever caught the keyway on the axle, it would cause problems. And with the contact surface being tapered, there is an outward force against the nut, slowly grinding it away. John, It is possible to seize triple gea...

Wood might do it but I tried before and had no luck, though I think the blocks I used were too short. Side question, is that not bad for the axle all that weight? Use one jack on each side. (2 jacks) Or....... I have A cradle I made that goes into my floor jack. Arms extend to either side to lift t...

You don't need a spreader on a model T. Actually makes the job harder. Using jacks & 2x4's under the leaf ends & Lifting against the body's weight will lengthen the spring to install the shackles. My preferred method is to attach the perches first. Guide the perch stud into the backing plates. Pull ...

Machine the bottom of the shaft as others have stated...., done bunches over the years. Anything else is asking for a dangerous situation in the hands of those with limited skills. The shaft/flange attachment is where all the torque is located. Just Sayin' Agreed. Much safer to chop & remachine the...

The Cutout was bad from the beginning and the cause of my grief. Ron Patterson called and explained the whole problem and outcome to me this morning. I will replace the generator and CutOut, which I suspect is an early mechanical type, as this T was in storage for over 20 years. I can also bench te...

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑
Sat Nov 29, 2025 6:14 pm
I thought the triple gears stayed still with all the bands released, such as when running in high, or towing in high. (?)

True.
In high gear the triple gears are moving fixed on the flywheel, with the flywheel, not individually spinning as in engaged.

Flat towing in neutral. :( :( Scott is right on about the bushings running dry, & quickley. The most @ risk bushings are that of the triple gears. The gears will be spinning very fast, faster than normal @ tow speeds & likely seize up first. Melt the pins, possibly shear. Steel clutch disks still ha...

If you have a bad engine bearing, seized engine, or serious transmission or rear axle issue, there is no good way to flat tow a Model T. It might be possible to use one of the rental tow dollies under the rear wheels, but if you do that, make sure the steering wheel is securely tied, and I mean SEC...

Pop out the pin on the u joint, separate forward of the pinion spool and go from there….., just a little logic. Head slap! Of course! I believe I had the same issue once also on a 26-7. Learned my lesson. I believe I was able to Remove the spool bolts & get enough side movement to get the radius ro...

Yes. Its a brilliant concept. Easier to lock the ear than ford made demountables. Works well in the confined spaces of aluminum HH's. Its a modified Ford non demountable band modified into a demountable format. Note the ford script on both ears. I think a company did the modification on their stock ...

Oh yea. I even modified the input much larger. (More is better, right?) Sitting @ a light the intake valves sucked up oil. Go time, I got a big cloud. I put inline A valve to meter oil down. No more cloud. Keep in mind, you dont want the orifice/metering valve to plug with some internal detritus. Op...

Yes I can relate.
Enjoying the view trying to figure out how to get up off the creeper.

Lighting issue solved !! It was the ground , thanks !! Did the suggested jumper cable test with a fully charged battery and starter turns very slow , so assuming the starter is not working properly A jumper cable test isnt necessarily conclusive. Did the starter turn over better, but not fast enoug...

The hot spot is your point of high resistance. Its not clear which ground wire is getting hot. Starter to frame?: indicates a poor ground @ that connection. Since that extra ground is not necessary & redundant. It indicates the starter, itself is not making the ground connection it should. Powder c...

Yes on a voltage loss test along the starter circuit. Thru the switch. (Repop??) Your headlight has a ground problem. The stem mount must be conductive. No rust or paint interference. Same goes for the socket ground connection in the bucket. Battery ground cable to frame must be excellent thru a lar...

I see nothing wrong in adding a second pin. That will keep the thrust washer from pivoting on the single pin, wearing into the carrier. I dont see there being any more than minor wear in a well lubricated rear end. Where I have seen the most wear here is in a dry rear end from a trailer/hay wagon. T...

Note the gear race OD is smaller than later gears. I wonder if there is/was a greater tendency to crack/split @ the key way of the earlier gear. I agree with the cost saving nature of the change. As we know from the longevity of later carriers. the bushings were not necessary. I also wonder the ID o...

Steve Jelf wrote: ↑
Fri Nov 21, 2025 4:42 pm
Daniel Boone's ax has had seven new handles and three new heads.

So did Washington's axe.

Coincidentally, I own one of those early 15's. Block is 10/2x/14 cast date. The body looks 14.(big cherry wood firewall). Front fenders are browed, rears are curved. It's an early 15. 15 model according to period literature. The later bodied cars are/were converted to 15's. A new member has an awful...

Drobnock wrote: ↑
Fri Nov 21, 2025 2:43 pm
Just saying...

There may have been 15 million Model Ts produced,

But I am certain that there are now a greater number of 1914 Model Ts than those produce by the FMC in 1914.

You mean 15's. 14's ain't so easy to fake.

I have not seen non D steel fellows on non starter T's. I did see an original, non messed with 26 electric delete roadster.
It had 30x3 & 30x3.5" wood fellow wheels.
Is there evidence (pictorial or otherwise) of steel fellow, non demountable wheels coming on a T from the factory?

Yes. & you can tow in gear with the spark plugs removed.
The point is the engine needs to keep moving/splashing oil into the bearings.

ModelT46 wrote: ↑
Thu Nov 20, 2025 2:23 pm
does it have the correct 1913 body with the long door?

Yes. Correct 13 only trunk also.
This T appears to have been an original, low mileage 13 T before the restoration 50+ years ago.

If you feel you must! Admin jeff sells converted to 12V T starters. Its a PITA job. I have done a few also. A model T generator will produce 12V. It dont know any better. One must adjust the output to 1/2 for longevity purposes, 4-5 amps is plenty anyway. That saves a few bucks, keeps a T motor look...

T4Tom wrote: ↑
Wed Nov 19, 2025 9:53 pm
Careful! Those two posts are spam or some kind of scam. Note the inclusion of websites and email.

I hope admin hops on this.

It's a word for word copy of my old post.

The taxi is a 15-16.

We have done auctions of items donated by members annually. T related. Extra parts, literature, antiques, etc.
Executed on a Saturday. The club provides lunch.(catered BBQ usually) Lots of fun, Lots of bargains & enough money raised to operate the club for the year +.

Cracked low drum.

The problems with Kevlar are all operator/installer error. I have not run cotton for decades, so I cant answer that question. I have installed many sets of scandia bands for newbie T owners & have not heard of quick wear & replacement. If you have any trepidation's/concerns running kevlar, definitel...

First question: was the HH removed for the installation of correctly installed/shaped Kevlar bands? Band must be round with NO band high spots. (No lumps) Do the triple gears start to sing @ what point in the movement range of pedal travel? Any sing denotes the band rubbing/creating friction on the ...

+2 The forum needs intelligent participants. Dont allow the few fools to discourage you.
I found an answer in the "FOE" setting. Mark the fools as foe & you dont see their nonsense.
Its made my participation much more pleasant.

That covers the whole range from 14-27.
You can see, you need to specify which one you want.

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑
Thu Nov 13, 2025 6:32 pm
Could be a battery charger.

Diode indicates a rectifier.
Unit to change AC to charge a DC battery.

A wheelwright. Dave Seiler, Stutzman, etc.

The loose rust dust on the rims indicate to me that the fellows were loose. Those fellows will need material added to make for a correct tight fit. The fellows are held onto the rim by press/shrink fit, not the 4 rivets alone. I believe the spokes available are for demount-able fellows. You will pro...

Grind a bar/plate to fit in the race about 1/2 way down. Weld onto the race with a wire welder.
Tap it out against the welded plate/bar with a rod/pipe from the opposite side.

There is a choke & tickler.
Are there both pull rods outside the radiator? & how are they differentiated?

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑
Sun Nov 09, 2025 12:37 pm
Ingenious!

Here is a true machinist.

What BALLS. A guy screws up your order & asks you to help pay for his screw up.
Yea, a real pro.
Try offering a bit of extra money to be sent AFTER your part arrives. Crickets??....

Is this a delaying ploy to get your initial payment cleared?
Plus pluck a little more from the "sucker".

You didnt post a pix of the kevlar bands you wanted evaluated.

If you cant find an illusive usable original unit, repair what you have.
I have one with a tab broken away from the bakelite. Easy enough to make a tab & epoxy or hot glue it in place.
You have the other side as a sample.
A tab could be modified from an electric plug prong.

Must be rears? If so ,they fit roadster & roadster pick up also.
That will widen your customer base. Good luck.

Scammer alert mavo7777 Post by Karl Von Neumann » Sat Nov 01, 2025 5:32 am Mavo7777 tried to sell me a wonderful pair of 12 head lights that are on ebay. Use Google lens guys it will save you butt Please hold the other 6 voices are taking a vote. Second member making this claim. Found in the classif...

I am not saying a babbitted cap will prevent a broken crank or cure a misalignment. In fact, a worn/chewed up babbit 4th main is a quick sign of a serious misalignment. Seen this many times. A perfectly made BB cap would not cause a problem. However, many past & present examples fall way short. As f...

Search "ball bearing 4th main" This debate has been had. Interesting take away - Herm Made a unit from modified original ball caps. No hacking of the DS ball.(Like) He only sold to reputable builders only. I understand. You cant buy one, slap it on & expect success AS DESIGNED. Anything but a dialed...

I have a late '25 with that setup. All genuine Ford parts. Never had a problem. There it is. The problem is these repop parts don't fit. You cant buy a part & expect it to fit correctly. T owners, or their hired mechanics need to have some skills. As a carb rebuilder, my time is better spent repair...

George House wrote: ↑
Thu Oct 30, 2025 12:20 pm
I wholeheartedly agree Michael ! But why won’t you trade Greenland to us for California ?

HEY!!!!!
How bout trading our Ca. Legislators for Greenlands?

Search found 4904 matches