MTFCA Forum

The license plate bracket, taillight base with single socket are one piece.
The lense holder can is seperate. You basically need another tail light unit & will have to change the sockets in both to double sockets.
The stock light is a running light, no stop feature.

With the record of repop parts, its a good policy to suspect the spurious part first.

RajoRacer wrote: ↑
Sat Aug 16, 2025 1:09 pm
I have some originals - drop me a note.

There you go.

Its a garden tractor. Car chassis with a TT axle for lower gearing.
The extra transmission for additional lower gearing. It needs iron tractor wheels similar to what you have shown.
Putting T wheels to turn into a TT truck? Its way cooler as a garden tractor.

The replacement contact units are inferior IMHO. I would be lookin for a good original.
Place a wanted post and/or hunt the swap meets.

Good to hear from you Scott C.

When your shame gets the better of you, I can make room for it @ my house.

Have you checked the screen in the sediment bowl?

Model A wheels are a different bolt pattern. A goose neck carrier will need some modification.

Not me but a good friend had disc brakes. Worked wonderfully until he had small hydraulic fluid leak, discs nicely lubricated, no stopping at all. I recognise that the hobby is big enough to accommodate almost everyone, but my question is, if you want to go that fast why don't you get a Corvette? W...

Assembled with grease? White lithium?

Once it is in place. Held by the nut it won't fall out. No need to braze. Until you remove the spare rim. Quiescently, I saw a nos replacement carrier base mount last night. The stud is a fine threaded carriage bolt. The outer edges of the square of the carriage bolt are chiseled down to lock the s...

Looking for a spare tire carrier for the back of my touring after I converted to steel wheels. Haven't found any local at the swaps. Not looking for something perfect, I'm on a budget. Please let me know what you have. Thanks You need to be clearer. What kind of carrier do you have now & what kind ...

The example of the copper plated wide brush holder isn't copper plated at all! It is solid copper and was probably made by the former owner. I have yet to see an original New Day brush that used the wide style as used today. I have several also, wide, solid copper. They were not one off made. They ...

An old racer friend told me to leave room between the cap & crank throw for the crank to grow @ higher rpms.
I don't see any such clearance here.

KWTownsend wrote: ↑
Tue Aug 12, 2025 5:58 pm
My thought was to fabricate one out of a lug bolt.

That can work. Might want to weld/braze into position.

1) Maybe you heard the saying "thats a 10 gallon hill" Depends on the amount of fuel in the tank & tank location. An improved T with a cowl tank doesn't have this problem. Some pressurize the tank. Some add a fuel pump. Some carry extra gas to top off. 2) Retarding the spark is important. If you are...

There should be a demount able sized fine thread stud swedged from behind.
You'll need to make & secure that stud.

There are no bolts.
The big hole goes over the existing carrier stud.
The upper hole & notch are for a padlock.

Can you get the DS flange back far enough to check the bolt holes independent of the transmission to the 4th main? The idea is to confirm if its the 4th main off or the transmission. If the DS bolt pattern dont align, maybe a little filing of the 4th main is in order? Confirm the issue before modify...

Could it be that the ball bearing was not machined to be properly centered & square? Have you checked it with the DS mount flange for bolt pattern line up ? You can try installing, noting contact spots. Rotate 180 degrees & check. Off the same side indicates a pan misalignment. If the contact point ...

Since there dont appear to be rivets, which would have been brazed also, must been brazed only. I wouldnt assume it was repaired.
I have seen these early DS tubes cracked @ this joint.

Hi John, I absolutely love the manifold, dual carbs, vaporizer exhaust. What is that casting? Allan with all that going on you noticed the cutout? Craig. Thanks Craig. The exhaust casting is a mystery part found on tbay. Fits the hot plate pattern near perfect. no gasket. I speculated it was from a...

Right here. Have @ it. Welcome.

Your brush is worn down to where the brush holder has rubbed/scraped the contact face. That grey stuff is ground phenolic. For this to happen the brush is mounted too far out. The brush holder should not be able to contact the face. You probably have too much forward cam thrust movement & a possibly...

Do you suppose he has a girlfriend or two??

"No thief ever attempted to steal a car with a man at the wheel."
Oh, how times have changed.

OP asked to see what's "correct."
I provided a previous post with pictures of the correct carb & fuel line.

Do not use my fuel line connection as an example, It is not correct either.
The difference is, I know it.

Looks to me you have that part. Its just turned 90 degrees off & has a washer over it.

Mike S wrote: ↑
Thu Aug 07, 2025 6:08 pm
Those pictures are what are in the car right now. I just want to correct it.

I just googled the following: mtfca model t 1926 carburator linkage.
There are the correct pictures of the improved carb linkage & fuel line run.

There was not a shaft collar originally. A cotter pin, as you have on the bottom is correct. The pictured fuel line doesn't look correct either. The fuel line fittings are not correct. The heat pipe (actually an accessory automatic choke) is also incorrect. Don't use this picture if you want to be c...

The carb is pre 23. The throttle lever should be shorter. The choke lever arms should also be shorter with an offset in 1 arm to clear the choke pull rod. Fuel line routing is also wrong. Close to the manifold center. The line runs straight down from the valve & 90 degree horizontal @ the inlet level.

Sweet! Like the electric side lamps!

Hang 'em on a string and tap them with a hammer.............. My crank came from a "hill climb" motor with a BB rajo on top. So, I dont know how abused it was or if the pan was bent on that motor The crank looked new with no wear & great radius's. My mistake, I didnt magnaflux. But I did ring it. B...

Has to be a take apart plug I think. Champion X.

Shall we complicate the discussion? Some people will take the defective brush out of the rotor and toss it, and make a new one from an old generator brush. Apparently if you have the skill to make a good fit, it works pretty well. Yes it does. I have done several score this way. Zero wear to the ti...

1/2" rod. Tapped 1/8 npt. Od cut down to .437. Thru drilled .156" Tapered lower section. Plug base clamped @ an angle. 3/8 end mill for the adapter piece to sit. Drilled .156 hole in plug base. Brazed together. That ought to be enough info to reproduce. Be careful to clear the base taper where the c...

Tadpole wrote: ↑
Thu Aug 07, 2025 8:36 am
Speedy, that is gorgeous!

Thank you for the inspiration.

"With a welder, drill and some tubing I imagine one wouldn’t be too hard to make out of a Champion X" Credit to Tadpole. There is the solution. Spark plugs with the outlet built in are quite rare & big $$. A matching set with one with the outlet built in, like the splitdorfs are mega $$$ Using the ...

Yes, that's a "sure break" crank.
I had a mint STD/STD in a motor I bought. Rebuilt the motor. Didn't make 100 miles.
My story is not unique.

Maybe a loose magnet keeper. Even a bendix that isnt retracting.

Looks like the cheap argentina unit from the 70's. Had one on my first T. I believe pinto points fit.

If you want the benefit of 50% more brake You would need the 4 dip pan & the late HH. Top HH mounting ears need modifying or removal. You can change the pedals. If you dont want to use the wider brake band, you can still use the front section of the wide drum with a narrow band. No need to change pe...

Check with the current mfg. Get dimensions. I believe the drums are the same size, just not the preferred cast iron.
Buy a pair.

Use them. Better to wear the sleeves than the original hyatts.

You may not need new babbit. A tear down will tell. Many times shim removal & time saver will get the bottom end back to reliable/new.
A valve job can be done in place, except the last exhaust valve. The motor has to be moved forward on the frame.
Wise decision to retain the improved drive train.

I talked to some oldtimers. Combined we found your grandparents were members in the OCMTFC. Old rosters list T's of the owners. Their 16 was not listed.. I have been very active for over 40 years. I dont remember seeing the car as shown. I dont remember it on any tours. I did recognize their names. ...

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑
Sun Aug 03, 2025 12:00 pm
Perhaps the engine in your car now only needs a valve job. Much easier than changing the engine and transmission.

It would be worth looking into over the down grade of an earlier power plant.

If you change the pedals, your current floorboards/mat will not need modification. You can use a string to determine belt length. Take the dimension to an auto parts store & get the closest length serpentine belt. They come in different widths. get the widest possible. (about 1") thats an 8L width b...

Your past mechanical experience will be helpful, but a T is a different animal.
Clearances & specifications are quite a bit looser than modern stuff.
Follow the service manual & ask for the "tricks" experienced builders have developed.

If you gonna go that fast cant the axle 1/2"-5/8". (As opposed to the stock 3/8")
That & the bushings all up to snuff will make her freeway stable to at least 70.
Down side is its a bit stiffer to steer @ low speed around town.
Get good @ down shifting for effective braking.

Floor boards will have to be custom made. Consider changing/swapping the brake & low pedals. Low pedal is a little bit of work to remove & re-rivet the cam. HH has to come off. Brake is nothing. Then you still have what still looks like a 26-7 in the cockpit using original floor boards & mat. Intere...

Perhaps to retard oil leakage from the pushrod action of crankcase oil splash. There should be oil drain back holes in the chamber. I would be concerned that inhibiting oil here might minimize the oil to lube the valve stems. This would limit oil being sucked past the guides reducing oil consumptio...

I would like them. E mail sent. Thanks JVK

Norman W wrote: ↑
Wed Jul 30, 2025 3:32 pm
can you install and replace the gears in a 1910 or 1911 Ford without changing anything
Thanks Norm woolley

NO. You must replace the steering shaft also.

To remove: remove the cotter pin, washer & spring.
Make a hollow punch that only contacts the base of the valve below the stud/post.

The name is familiar. I believe they were members of the OCMTFC. I dont recall seeing this T out, especially if it never had a top. Consider the number (vin?) you have may be a horseless carriage or historical vehicle plate #. I dont recall the T being offered for sale within the club. I will inquir...

A better answer might be to lap the axle & wheel hub.

Contact the Orange county model t ford club. Some of the old timers might remember him IF he was a member.
Will need his name.

24mm is almost an inch.
I wouldnt recommend either for a plug gap.

"With a welder, drill and some tubing I imagine one wouldn’t be too hard to make out of a Champion X" Credit to Tadpole. There is the solution. Spark plugs with the outlet built in are quite rare & big $$. A matching set with one with the outlet built in, like the splitdorfs are mega $$$ Using the a...

Do you have the shift lock off the axle housing? Look under the shift fork in the lock body. The p124 finger is below it.
In that finger a 1/2" headed hex bolt should be facing you. Its possible that bolt has fallen out or sheared, in which case a 5/16" hole is seen.

The bolt in p123 has to be removed. Then p98c comes out the top. The shaft has a relief for the bolt. . Shift to get the bolt in position for the most room to remove the bolt. Or, If you remove p117b the lever will be free. The slop you have is a combination of wear in the flats of p98c & the H hole...

Your previous post claimed you were running a roller timer. Now you have a new day. Changing to the newday requires a reset of the timing. brush/roller/contact timing is very different between the 2. Thats done by a rebending of the timer rod. That & I believe you are not actually looking & tdc on c...

You dont happen to have an early cam with the pin hole thru? That would put you out 180 degrees.
Are you really @ tdc #1?? Make sure both valves are closed as you reach TDC.
Intake just closed & exh is about to open.

Earlier post on the 26-27 bracket. One bushing. 7/8” dia. There is an internal boss so don’t make your bushing too long. Otherwise grease won’t get there. https://share.google/Y4a5DYsogphfeUiB0 My memory tells me the bushing hole doesn't go all the way thru the casting & the old one is tougher to r...

Remove the existing plug. Install the whistle. Put the old plug in the adapter. There is no special plug.
FWIW, I have tried to run these types of whistles in my different T's, all the motors developed a rough running like miss.
So off they went. I have gotten similar feedback from a few other guys.

I have had the same problem occasionally. The Ron Patterson method has been my go to.
Set the 3rd brush just off its minimum position. Rotate the brush ring for minimum output. (amps)
Lock the ring. Adjust the 3rd brush for desired output. I normally set @ 4 amps.

Are you sure you are in rux & not direct with 3-1 gearing? Do a compression test first. You should have a consistent 60+ # in each cylinder. Recent rebuild needs rings. This dosent fit. Shudder going into hi is indicative of a slipping clutch, but not your major problem. Sure timing is correct? Have...

I rarely see a flywheel with the pin holes chewed out. The few were after current, poor rebuilds. I have seen several where the bushing seizes on the pin & the gear spins on the outside of the bushing. Even to the point of an hourglass type wear pattern in the bushing. I suspect that such flywheel d...

"Running Fit" is a class of tolerance Running or Sliding Fit can encompass any one of 9 sub-classes of fit from RC1 (Close Sliding Fit) all the way to RC9 (Loose Running Fit). FORD's ".002" Running Fit was likely an early equivalent to RC7 Free Running Fit or RC8 Loose Running Fit Using the below c...

Steve Jelf wrote: ↑
Sun Jul 20, 2025 3:53 pm
I don't guarantee accuracy, but the Fahnestock book has a
cotter pin list that's mostly correct.

Looking @ past posts, I did not see the specific pin for the output plate listed.

The pins are larger @ the base than the flywheel hole. They install from the magnet side & must be removed in the opposite direction. Never pushed thru. The pins must be a tight press fit. This appears to be your failure point. Pin bushing surfaces must be polish smooth. I understand some of the ven...

If that bearing went out, & they do, could be a source of noise.

Quite a mix. The body appears to be a high hood. Maybe a late 23? Sold in 23, but a 24 model?
Thats how things were done. Your motor wears out & in goes a random junk yard motor.
Didnt mater for a $10 jitney.

I happen to have the same carrier. One of the lugs on my Hayes rim goes at the bottom and the carriage bolt takes a lug nut to hold the rim in place. For a rim without lugs, I gather you'll need a spare lug and nut to go on the bolt. IMG_0585.JPG The way you have the spare mounted is not correct. T...

This is the most common factory carrier. Missing the carriage bolt stud & the locking plate.

In my experience, the Z head has inconsistent combustion chambers & require a bunch of milling to fix. That & their propensity to corrode quickly, I would get rid of it & get a Prus head. You are putting a lot of effort to use a lousy head. Shortening the rods is a silly idea. If you have .025" clea...

Drain the bowl into a glass jar looking for contaminants. Doesnt take much, but often clears itself. Look for a worn spot on the float tab that can hold up the needle from occasionally not seating. Look for possible float hang ups @ the bowl edge or center stem & float centering. Sounds mostly like ...

Original Smith wrote: ↑
Wed Jul 16, 2025 4:23 pm
I wish it was like the old days when you could actually find some good parts!

I wish I could still buy Thrifty ice cream for a Nickle a scoop

You don't, per chance have an aftermarket aluminum pulley on this T ??

With this new information, disregard my email. Getting triple gear bushings correct & living long is a real technical skill unto itself. They seem to be the weakest link, especially @ initial start up. I will add, its not out of the realm of possibility to have a failure by operator error. I once di...

Before pulling the motor, have a competent & knowlegable T mechanic like J & M look & confirm the problem.
Its only fair to see if the original builder will warrant his work.

.

A friend has the same problem. 27 roadster. Passes the bench test. Leaks like a sieve when installed. Will check & confirm the bowl vent is open. Thanks Scott. This friend has looked at all? possible problems, but hasnt figured it out. The one thing that "fixed" the problem. Sounds screwey!, was to...

Allan wrote: ↑
Sun Jul 13, 2025 6:57 pm
I don't think he couplet body is a T model body, if that makes a difference. Notice the decklid and the dashboard.

Allan from down under.

Maybe you are seeing #156M. That looks like a Dodge coupe body.
#312MA does appear to be a couplet body. But, I am no expert.

BTT. Lookin forward to it. Packed & pointed.

Check the sealing surface of the carburetor casting where the needle seat gasket mates to. Sometimes the surface can have some pitting and the gas can leak past it and make it look like the needle and seat are leaking. Also, make sure there is not an old gasket still down in the bore where the need...

A friend has the same problem. 27 roadster. Passes the bench test. Leaks like a sieve when installed. Will check & confirm the bowl vent is open. Thanks Scott. This friend has looked at all? possible problems, but hasnt figured it out. The one thing that "fixed" the problem. Sounds screwey!, was to ...

So it passes the suck test off the car?! Procedure in the service manual. That eliminates the needle & seat. Improved T's used a larger float due to more head pressure. Try lowering the float level another 1/16" as a test. A full tank of gas may be overwhelming the float @ the current setting.. Air ...

Napa, on line & locally, has 30wt detergent & non detergent in their brand & valvoline 30 racing.

The new timer you show seems to have higher edges on the contact edges than the adjacent insulators. This is no good. The inside must be perfectly smooth & centered. Anything less will cause the roller to bounce causing a washboard wear pattern & worse running the higher the RPMs. Sandpaper wont do ...

The new roller timers available in the past,( I cant speak to current production, but I doubt their quality has changed) are/were junk new out of the box. Inside contacts must be perfectly round & centered, they were not. New rollers commonly wear out quickly. This is why those in the know don't run...

Squiring oil in the flip top cap puts that oil on the roller brush directly. That oil makes is way to the roller. If started soon after oiling, the oil will get to the roller quicker by centrifugal force. Yes, having the roller @ 6:00 would be ideal. Perhaps by having/knowing one of the 2 lower cont...

Oil will puddle behind the lowest edge behind the insulator ring. A little oil added by a non sealed cam will keep the roller & contact surfaces wet. External oiling as prescribed keeps the roller pin wet. Eventually the oil puddle picks up enough metal powder from contact wear to short out one of t...

Consider using new '28 model A tail lights. Tuna cans. They are very attractive. A bit smaller than the accessory stop/tail light,
(better proportioned IMHO) but with the same 2 functions. Available nickle or paint em black. They mount directly to the 27 tail light stands.

Thats a fine idea.

However, in a semi related vain, you would do well to get rid of those solid repop hyatt replacements.
Slightly worn hyatt's would serve you better. Solids are hard on axle shafts.
Look for past discussions on the topic.

Maybe the beads needed a little notching for a rubber stem. I know some claim notching isn't necessary. The last tube I replaced a metal stem with a rubber stem clearly needed the notching to not pinch the stem. The old ,modern, vulcanized metal stem was tight against the beads. Not good for the lar...

I’m curious about the almost complete removal of Novice Collectors post. Why would they be removed? We’ve had several more contentious threads that still remain on the net & Forum. The information and help offered was sound & yes there were comments made by the OP and the contributors were somewhat...

Sure you got the decimal point in the right spot? .018" is a long way from 1/8".
.018 would be barely if not not noticeable.

Regarding sound. I have adjusted enough coils on an ECCT. During the process, one can hear differences that coincide with a tune improving. The final very good passing coil has a definite, clear, loud clack, as opposed to a weak buzzing. There is no way I could get that sound & performance without a...

dobro1956 wrote: ↑
Tue Jul 08, 2025 11:57 am
I remember reading in some Ford literature, probably the Service Bulletin's that factory run out was 3/8 inch when new. Not sure if that was at the wheel rim or tire OD. 1/8 of a inch is actually pretty good.

I find that hard to believe. I would like to see that bulletin.

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