MTFCA Forum

Khill0105

Joe Bell wrote: ↑
Sat Mar 06, 2021 11:05 am
Great work, you are close to home, by chance do you know Todd Goodings from Marion? the carousel guy.

Yes I do. Quite well actually. Weight engine Joe?

Khill0105

Thanks so much guys for the pictures and the links. I think I’m definitely going to have to try to make a set

Khill0105

Looking for pictures of the multi lift junior. I’ve searched the forum and have read several posts on the subject but no pictures. If anyone has a set or pictures could you please post them. If you have a set could you please post a picture with a ruler in the picture also.
Thanks everyone Kyle

Khill0105

Norman Kling wrote: ↑
Fri Mar 05, 2021 9:07 am
Wow! How long did that take? You are quite talented. Did you make all the sheetmetal pieces ?
Norm

I pretty much made every single part. It took about a year.

Khill0105

Chris Instness wrote: ↑
Fri Mar 05, 2021 1:35 am
Very nice work. What is the motor out of?

Honestly I’m not sure. I made most of it. The block and head had stover on it.

Khill0105

Layden Butler wrote: ↑
Thu Mar 04, 2021 9:06 pm
Kyle,
To answer your original question......Here is how it was done back then. Since they interfere with a camshaft in the cylinder block these were intended to only be used under a overhead cam setup.

Thanks Layden exactly what I was looking for.

Khill0105

More pictures of the T

Khill0105

More pictures of the mini T

Khill0105

Scratch built miniature T

Khill0105

Stan Thank you for the kind words. UNFORTUNATELY DONT send me money for a crank as I have none left. I will provide permission to Crower to use the drawings. I have exactly one of the girdle castings available but I still have the pattern, so more can be made. My preference would be to sell the pat...

Khill0105

Les Schubert wrote: ↑
Wed Mar 03, 2021 4:35 pm
The crank you see was custom made by Crower. I’m sure they still have the drawings!! Definitely more than a Scat crank!

Gotcha Les

Khill0105

Les could you please send more information and cost?

Khill0105

18C60F77-BFC5-4A3E-A56B-4B2743D75883.jpeg Crank side of girdle BE0305F1-AC5D-441C-A2AE-F9D4EAC2E982.jpeg Girdle as it would be installed 38B0CF95-5317-4490-BC39-7536F2174CBD.jpeg A suitable crank That’s really cool Les definitely interested. I think I understand where you’re going with that. Does i...

Khill0105

If you want to go the “5 main conversion” route I have available exactly ONE conversion “girdle”. The concept is that ALL 5 main caps are in one casting. I’ll try to post a picture tomorrow. If someone wants to buy the 5 main block patterns please contact me. They are available. With some modificat...

Khill0105

Michael Peternell wrote: ↑
Mon Mar 01, 2021 7:20 pm
Can you post a picture of the book you have? I would like to be able to read the whole page. No offense, but I can't now.

The book is model t speed and sport.

Khill0105

Any one have any pictures of some of the original five bearing cranks installed or how they were installed?

Khill0105

More pictures

Khill0105

I would like to to build a duel engine T but completely different from what I’ve seen. But I need to learn the engine first

Khill0105

perry kete wrote: ↑
Mon Feb 15, 2021 4:17 pm
I saw this one on the internet today...

speedster.jpg

. That’s really cool

Khill0105

John Warren wrote: ↑
Mon Feb 15, 2021 10:04 am
Bobtail racer, Nice. You can look at my build on the forum, Race Car Project. Thank you for sharing your build. Love seeing stuff like this! IMG_1932~photo.PNG

That’s really cool. Love it.

Khill0105

I just did a little math and at 60mph with standard T gears (3.63-1) the engine is turning around 2450 rpm. With a counterbalanced and pressure oiled system no problem. At 100 mph around 4,000 rpm. Again quite doable. I really have to question the MONSTER overdrive! I agree with you it may not work...

Khill0105

Khill0105 wrote: ↑
Mon Feb 15, 2021 2:45 am
What I’m going for kinda

Khill0105

What I’m going for kinda

Khill0105

Kile you can easily re-drill the wheels to the model t wood hubs. Use the standard hub plate on the out-side. I should have explained better. I am using original T hubs. I press fit 1” thick steel plates on to the hubs with correct shoulder for the Chevy wheels and re-drill the rims. I’m planning o...

Khill0105

Kile you can easily re-drill the wheels to the model t wood hubs. Use the standard hub plate on the out-side. I should have explained better. I am using original T hubs. I press fit 1” thick steel plates on to the hubs with correct shoulder for the Chevy wheels and re-drill the rims. I’m planning o...

Khill0105

I think running it without tires is going to prove exceeding dangerous in the curves, and really hamper getting your built engine's power to the pavement. 😂😂😂 actually I have a set of steel 27 Chevy wheels I’m making hubs for to fit the T. Also thinking about using T late model drum brakes on the f...

Khill0105

Might want to calculate your final drive @ 55 mph to engine RPM (1750 RPM flat head), (2000 RPM overhead) is in the sweet spot. Possible 10, 9, 8 tooth pinion gear would get you there depending on your outer circumference of the tires being used. You will need a lower support coming from the top of...

Khill0105

John Warren wrote: ↑
Sun Feb 14, 2021 11:40 am
I had noticed that you are looking at using a tt aux trans backward for an overdrive. What do you end up with on final? I think that the overdrive is a great idea.

I ended up with a 1.75 to 1 over drive which is a bit much but I’m still going to give it a try.

Khill0105

To the model T engine gods. I’m a fabricator, machinist, and a pretty good engine builder, I should say modern engine builder. I really don’t know much about model T engine’s. So any advice, questions, or ideas, are welcome. I’m trying to learn the engine as I go. As far as I am concerned. I’m reall...

Khill0105

StanHowe wrote: ↑
Sun Feb 14, 2021 12:57 am
Are you planning on running those carbs or are they just there for mock up?

Just mock up 2 are nh 2 are Kingston.

Khill0105

With the 1.7 intakes what are you running for a head gasket? Conventional one is going to be REALLY close to the valves! I have run a T engine with a VERY aggressive camshaft and ended up creating 4 intake ports to get a decent bottom end torque. Pulled strong to 4500 rpm where the valves would sta...

Khill0105

9.5:1 is a lot for a flathead... not necessarily because of the bearings, but instead the lack of efficiency of the combustion chamber. I have a hell of a time with detonation at 7.5:1 in mine. Make sure your cam has plenty of overlap to bleed off some of the dynamic compression pressure Definitely...

Khill0105

Dan Haynes wrote: ↑
Sat Feb 13, 2021 2:08 pm
loved the 4 Holley NHs.

Thanks I’ll get into why better once I figure out how to get the cam to fit

1.700 intake and 1.500 exhaust valves. 9.5 compression head. The head is slightly modified also.

Khill0105

Nice job! a few comments on your radius rod anchor points- the rear radius rod ends need to be in alignment with your u-joint ball where they attach to the frame in order to prevent binding when the rear end moves up and down. Same with your front- looks like you have two different anchor locations...

Khill0105

Les Schubert wrote: ↑
Sat Feb 13, 2021 10:53 am
I’m really curious about the last picture with the worm gear???

Kevin nailed it. It’s a tt under drive turned around.

Khill0105

More pictures

Khill0105

More pictures

Khill0105

More pictures

Khill0105

New to the page. My 13 year old and I have really gotten into model Ts. He came up with some rules for a build I wanted to do and thought I would get some expert advice. I’m building a 20s racer and the rules are the parts have to be model T or model T era. Parts could be made but had to be made the...

Search found 39 matches