MTFCA Forum

I'd certainly do it. If someone complains, have them ride in the back.

I'd definitely want to retain the Ford transmission brake on a car with an auxiliary gearbox for the reason pointed out by Baby Chadwick.

You need to check your timer. It is probably worn or dirty or needs lubricated with a light oil, if it is a Ford type timer. I suspect that dirt or gum in your fuel system is causing your carburetor issues. There are several things that can cause the problems you're having, and all can be usually be...

With a T, a low idle speed will help with braking and with shifting sliding gear auxiliaries.

I used to have a 1998 Chevrolet 2500 HD with 5 speed manual. It had a 454 engine, 4.10 axle, and a deep low and reverse. If you backed up and shifted to neutral, you had to wait about 5 seconds to shift into low or the gears would grind. This was due to the very thin oil in the transmission and a la...

A dragging clutch complicates shifting any sliding gear unit. With a T, correct engine oil, gearbox oil, and proper adjustments will help. No matter what you are driving, you have to stay within the design limits of the vehicle. *

*.... And "smart cars" are no such thing.

If you drive any vehicle in such a way that other drivers must make way for you, you are going to be in a collision sooner than later.

It's normally possible to put a non-synchronized gearbox or 2-speed axle back into gear, while the vehicle is moving, without grinding gears. You have to use the throttle to match the speed of the gears you want to engage to one another. This used to be a common driving skill. You can't do this if y...

I wouldn't want to run a T on a near-empty tank unless it is unavoidable. If you must run the tank low, it's best to carry some extra gas with you. I try to keep at least 5 gallons in my tank. I've read that it's best not to run modern cars with in-tank electric fuel pumps very low on gas, since the...

I suspect you still have a fuel delivery issue.

Very nice!

Elaborate solutions to non-problems are inherently wasteful.

Will Persyns of Egyptian descent claim "cultural appropriation" and launch a massive lawsuit?

Even a small scratch or nick or dent could lead to failure. There is a process known as shot-peening which might be of benefit to used crankshafts. Surface scratches, gouges or dents from hammer blows or having been dropped can all lead to fractures.

If I needed more braking, I'd add a KC Warford. Besides having a wide selection of gears, including an overdrive, it's claimed they can be shifted easily while underway. A ratio around 6.6:1 is available, which ought to be excellent for mountain descents. There are a lot of good reasons to keep the ...

!! TOXIC CHEMICALS !!

Time to BUY!

If you really want a T to stop, you need front brakes. Front brakes and double-acting shocks would make an enormous improvement. Shocks aren't too difficult to adapt, and would help with braking, but front brakes would be a challenge, and the T front axle design is not really adequate for hard braki...

Hard to tell by looking. In my opinion, most breaks are caused by misalignment, incorrect grinding or finishing, abusive handling or operation, and perhaps very high accumulated hours. Did someone take a hammer to that front main cap? If so, why?

The item pictured in big2bird's Aug. 10th post, titled "Coupe Gizmo?", looks a lot like the metal items on the upper outer corners of the wood dash.

Taking unnecessary risk just isn't worth it.

If you are called upon to crank start a car you are not familiar with, it would be a good idea to ground the plug wires and then crank the car with the switch on Battery and observe where the crank ratchet pin is when the first coil buzzes to be sure it is past TDC with the lever up. If the car only...

For the Montana 500 car, be sure to read the latest rules and build accordingly.

Did the engine rebuilder install the pan, or was the engine installed into the pan by the customer? If the latter, could the pan need straightening?

OK, here are some voltage readings when running on magneto and on battery: I tested with both the cheapie analog meter and a basic Fluke digital hand held meter. Readings were identical. With the engine running on Magneto at an indicated 1,000 RPM, the magneto voltage reads 19.6 to 20 volts on the A...

I have a digital VOM and I have a cheap analogue one... if I can find it. The digital meter may work OK with my car since it has the late style metal coil box under the hood. I can run a portable radio around the car with no significant interference on either AM or FM and on both local and distant s...

I don't think it should drop that much, and the engine will normally run better on magneto than battery, especially when running above idle. I don't have a magneto meter, but I do have a tachometer and a VOM. I'll see if I can get some voltage readings at a specific engine speed on battery and then ...

Erratic contact between the coil units and the coil box can cause a lot of rough running issues.

There are differences from T to T. Lots of variables, even with all new parts. The 15 degree ATDC spec probably allows a margin of safety. With 1920s gasoline and motor oil, combustion chamber carbon deposits were a common issue, and a hot engine with heavy carbon and low octane fuel might kick back...

The Ford magneto should show AT LEAST 7 volts on an AC voltmeter with the engine running at 400 RPM and no load on the magneto. 400 RPM engine speed would move the car at about 9 MPH in high gear.

Some voltage drop is normal, and it would probably be less as a percentage of the voltage reading at higher engine speeds, since available current at higher RPM would be greater than at lower RPM or cranking speed.

Coils that are out of proper adjustment can draw more current than they should as well as giving poor performance.

"Imagine, if a new car was sold today, that would break the arm of its owner if simply started the wrong way..."

We'd probably have fewer fools per mile.

A cold engine cannot kick back with the timing retarded properly. The engine doesn't care where the timing lever is, only where the timer itself is. On my car, the coils buzz a little after TDC on battery with the lever all the way up. The car starts easier on magneto with the lever down a few notch...

A more precisely made rotor would probably be of benefit.

I'll second "PATENTED"...

Those MELs were fine engines. If you can't get fuel to the carburetor, check the fuel pump pushrod. Vapor lock might be an issue with modern gas, too.

Very slow cooling after pouring will normalize a casting like an engine block, but that is not compatible with mass production. The T block must have been a pretty good design, since they are not known for cracking except as a result of abuse. I have no idea how they cast so many blocks so rapidly, ...

I'd think 6 volt generator brushes would be a good choice. They have low resistance and are intended for extended run time on copper.

Parking any gasoline fueled vehicle or tool in a basement is VERY DANGEROUS!! That goes for any enclosed space where any appliance that has a pilot light or electric ignition device is located, or where any brush-type electric motor is in use.

Most Model Ts leak more or less oil. One sure way to get one to leak excessively is to put too much oil in the engine. There are a number of inexpensive things that can be done to minimize oil leakage. Often, just snugging up oil pan and valve cover bolts will reduce oil leakage. Most Model Ts can b...

$36.00 a year = 10 cents a day. Pretty cheap!

Where did that block come from? Burz?

A 1927 Western Auto catalog offers a counterbalanced crankshaft that appears to be identical to the one in the OP's picture. (Cimorelli)

I like the Ford system. It will start on battery or magneto, electric starter or crank, or push or pull the car. About as often as not, it will start simply by turning the ignition key to battery.

That's a beautiful bottom end!

Along comes the beat cop, who says, "Hey, bub! You can't park that pile of tin here!"
When no response is forthcoming, the situation escalates....

Running an engine hard with a very light flywheel might allow destructive high frequency torsional vibration at some speeds.

"Loss leader" is an economy or discounted version of a product designed to sell in volume.

Babbitt metal comes in a number of grades. It is available new from a number of suppliers at whatever the current price is. Antique, trademarked ingots are available on various websites at prices ranging from around $50.00 to around $100.

What does it weigh?

Very nice top installation on that touring car...

Could some be made from mild steel rod ?

Be sure the cylinder is actually firing when the whistle is activated. I'd think it would be rather loud. I'd expect it to be a lot louder with more throttle opening since the volume and pressure of the combustion event would be a lot greater.

If the rivets are loose, it would be necessary to take the housing off the axle and clean everything up and re-set the rivets. It would probably be best to use slightly oversize rivets. If the joint is at all loose, it will get looser as the car is driven. Putting goop on the outside of the axle is ...

It's probably loose rivets or a crack around the rivet area. I'd clean the axle housing up and drive the car a couple of miles and then look for evidence of exactly where the leak is. I'd check for any indication of the axle being overfilled with lube.

I think that one of the service bulletins mentioned adding some kind of gutter or shield to the firewall to divert rainwater that got under the back of the hood away from the firewall area and plug wires. I don't remember where I saw it or exactly what it consisted of or what year cars were affected...

Sometimes a radiator core can collect a lot of water. When you start the car, the fan will pull water out of the core and blow it over the engine. Very high humidity might cause problems even if the surfaces don't actually look wet. This is especially true if any dust is present. I'd look for any in...

Another thing is coil adjustment. Coils that are out of adjustment can draw more current than they should and that can cause timer issues. Sticky points, poor adjustment, and probably a weak capacitor can accelerate timer wear. As noted above, several mechanical issues can also cause more rapid than...

Is there any chance that water got into the axle?

The basic cars probably sold best in rural parts of warm weather states. Fully equipped closed cars were probably more popular in urban areas and cold weather states.

If you have demountable rims, you can probably reduce or eliminate the wobble at the tire by removing and re-mounting the rim so as to offset the wobble.

Many paving bricks used in several states were made in Thurber, Texas and Mineral Wells, Texas. An amazing number of these bricks were laid by a man known as Indian Jim Brown. He reportedly could lay as many as 33,000 bricks in 8 hours. Many miles of these bricks remain in place today.

A Model T that is in reasonably good running order will go up any hill you are likely to encounter on any public road in high gear in most parts of the country. Exceptions may be found in mountainous areas. In several internet pictures, Marion County looks like flat to low rolling hills to me.

I would add that when the coolant flows faster for whatever reason, it passes through the radiator more often. The radiator (heat exchanger) performs better the hotter it is relative to the air passing through the core. A Ford T operating in 50F weather will run cooler at higher engine loads than it...

You shouldn't need low gear on anything but steep hills. For most any driving over 17 to 20 MPH, advance the spark all the way. If the car is in fair to good condition, I'd drive it around 30 MPH up to about 35 MPH. If you go too slow, you may have to downshift more often than otherwise. The engine ...

If the car has been sitting a while, I'd start by pushing the car a few feet, then checking and correcting the tire pressure. Then I'd see to it that any stale gasoline was removed and replaced with fresh gas. Then I'd lubricate the entire car as directed in the owner's manual. Then check and charge...

Much of Iowa is prime Model T country, at least in Summer.

Digital devices often do not play well with Model Ts. An analogue tach will probably work better and certainly look better.

Wilson's fault!!!

The Ford protocol and gauge for setting timing is for use with a Ford roller timer. Any other timer will probably need a different approach. Since you have no magneto, a distributor might give better results on your car.

Be sure the gasoline in the car is fresh. Since my last post here at 7:30 AM this morning, I've driven my Model T 70 miles on mostly rural 2 lane roads with 7 miles on dirt. I drive about 45 MPH on pavement. Speeds and distance measured by Garmin navigation device.

My experience with cars, old or new, is that they pay no attention to city limit signs. I drive my Model T often, and I avoid driving it in towns, and I rarely drive it less than 25 to 40 miles at a time. The only reason to hesitate to drive it on the open road would be traffic conditions. I don't d...

**"When I had my T rebuilt I had a new crankshaft installed I think it was counter balanced crankshaft at the time I think it came from New Zealand but don't quote me on that. As I mentioned it does have a Z head and aluminum pistons. I did have a modern carbon brush timer but the seal around the ca...

If your engine isn't knocking and burning a significant amount of oil, it probably doesn't need a major rebuild. There's little to gain by fixing what ain't broke. A weak valve will dramatically reduce a Model T's performance, and correcting it will offer a dramatic improvement at low cost.

On my '26 or '27 roadster, the gutters along the sides of the trunk opening end just above the trunk floor and over a sort of shallow gutter that runs around the perimeter of the trunk floor. There are 1/2" holes in the trunk floor near the lower ends of the side gutters to let water drain out. Ther...

Opening doors and the trunk as you do helps a lot. Adding a fan is even better. You can get a plastic 24" portable fan pretty cheap, and setting it on the floor to blow on the car will do a good job. Portable fans are nice to have a around for general use. I bought a steel caged 24" fan with metal b...

The car does look great. There are ways of checking the condition of the axle thrust washers, and I'd want to do that before tearing into it. A weak cylinder is a nuisance, but if the axle goes bad, it disables the car entirely.

I would do a compression check. If one cylinder is significantly lower than the others, it is likely a valve that needs ground. A valve job is not very difficult or expensive. If a valve looked bad in the past, it most probably IS bad. Once a valve begins to leak, it will usually get worse, and it w...

What exactly is wrong with the engine in the car now?

The 1926 and '27 engine/transmission featured a much improved brake, and a more rigid connection between the engine and transmission as well as added braces from the engine block to the rear engine mounts, plus the wider pedals and easier transmission band service. The improved, more rigid block and...

Perhaps the engine in your car now only needs a valve job. Much easier than changing the engine and transmission.

They're all obsolete when driven off the dealer lot.

Most pre-war cars had unsophisticated body sealing against dust and water intrusion. I would not attempt to run a Model T closed car through an automatic car wash, and using a pressure washer or garden hose nozzle on the body is sure to get some water into the interior and trunk area. I'd limit use ...

I'd check the gutter system on your car and be sure that it is working as well as it is supposed to. Anything blocking the gutter channels will make it easier for water to get in, and any dents or cracks or holes in the gutter channels will allow water in. On my car, the gutter channel on the leadin...

Model Ts had very little in the way of weatherstripping or any other rubber items, other than the tires. I believe the later bodies were made with gutters to lead rainwater away from the trunk interior. A pressure washer or garden hose stream would probably defeat those. Looking at my late roadster,...

If you suspect that the blemish between the X and the B is crack, I doubt that it is. It looks like a casting flaw to me.

My car has a neatly adapted set of modern hydraulic shocks front and rear. I'm sure they contribute a lot to steering stability. I haven't checked the caster angle, but it has a lot of caster. It's very stable up to 50 MPH, which is as fast as I drive it. It has a '27 frame and the late spindles, 5:...

With your range of skills and interests, you're very well equipped to enjoy owning and driving a Model T.

I'd put the Warford in and stay with the standard axle ratio. If you have a counterbalanced crankshaft and aluminum pistons and around 30+ horsepower, you could probably run about 55 MPH under good conditions in overdrive, provided the engine and transmission are in good order and you use appropriat...

Your car might perform better at higher RPM with a good New Day timer. T's generally run better on magneto, too. An engine/transmission that is not well balanced will vibrate viciously at higher RPM and the vibration consumes power. Having your coils tuned on an ECCT can improve high speed performan...

I forgot to mention that my car has aluminum pistons and the engine is balanced. Crankshaft is stock. The engine runs close to 2,000 RPM at 50 MPH, which is on the high side. It runs close to 1800 at 45 MPH with 4.40/4.50 X 21 tires on wire wheels and seems happy doing it. Speaking of wheels and tir...

Could be a squadron of Temperance Ladies....

Many temperature gauges are inaccurate.

My 26 roaster runs fine at 40-45 MPH in blistering Texas heat with a stock rear axle. It has a Berg's flat tube radiator. Any running temperature up to about 200 F is fine. You may have radiator problems, or perhaps timing is a little late, or something is dragging. Even a little valve leakage will ...

It's worth noting that Montana 500 cars average well over 50 MPH on the open roads of Montana with stock gears and no auxiliary transmissions or axles, and near-stock engines.

A '27 T coupe is rather heavy with a large frontal area. I'd be leery of putting a 3:1 under one, especially if I had 3 gearboxes to play with and at least one overdrive ratio.

There used to be a wide variety of "trick" spark plugs. Very few offered much, if any advantage over the factory equipment. Ford recommended none of them, and discouraged their use. Some plugs, like the Liberty Spitfire, functioned something like a combustion pre-chamber, and they'd actually spit fi...

A gap that is too wide may cause mis-fire at higher engine loading. It can also make starting on magneto more difficult. The engine runs on fuel combustion/expansion, not spark energy. Worn or dirty plugs will mis-fire more easily with a wider gap. There's nothing to gain with an excessively wide gap.

A KC Warford offers under, direct, and overdrive. That, a Ruxtell, and a standard axle should cover most any likely operating situation with a standard axle ratio. A performance cam will work against low end torque, to a degree, but with many gears to choose from, that should be no problem. A very h...

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