MTFCA Forum

Thanks Mark - might have to do some research on this.

Just to be sure, these are the same heads as mentioned in this thread? http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/12413.html

Out of curiosity, what kind of CNC machine would be needed for this? Are we taking a Haas 5 axis or will something smaller work?

Thanks Gene - email received

Don - I'll see what Dennis has and reach out afterwards - thanks!

Joe - I reached out to Dennis and am going to check out what he has. If I need a pouring fixture I will reach out - thanks!

I'll reach out to him - thanks Dan!

Yeah, I was hoping to save a little. I did PM Gene a few months back on here, but didn't hear from him

Anybody going to Hershey have a line boring jig and bearing molds available? I wouldn't mind trying to really screw up the engine myself before taking it to someone who actually knows what they're doing

Maybe you could talk this person into parting things out and make a detour on your way to Hershey: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/it ... 9420937848 (I want the front fenders, but not the pile of crap that goes along with it)

PB Blaster the night before, then use a gear puller, some heat, and tapping around the basket with a hammer. Careful though, once it lets loose the gear puller might fly off

Thanks Bob. It's from a '27, so I guess it must be part of the filings found in the oil over the years

Every book and video I've seen mentions or shows 3 Driven Gear Sleeve Washers, but when I disassembled my transmission I found only 2 and one was fused to the shaft. Were there always 3 and one of mine got eaten? What the shaft looks like now https://tri-county-aaca.org/images/scoredGearShaft.jpg I'...

Thanks Richard - that's exactly what I was talking about

Probably not the right terminology - the added piece welded to the pedal for actuating a master brake cylinder

Those adjuster shafts are such a simple, but great idea! Any knowledge if they interfere with the aftermarket brake levers?

Thanks - I will check those out!

Thanks Tad - I've owned the o-rings for a few months now and have been waiting on the rebuild after seeing how scored the pedal shafts were

Thanks John - I should have everything necessary to ream everything myself, just want to make sure I don't do any unnecessary work

As part of an rebuild, I'm replacing my pedal shafts that are scored and worn down. If I'm replacing the pedal cams/supports and notches too, do I get standard sized shafts or do I buy oversized shafts and ream everything out to an oversized shaft size?

.042" endplay and only a plate? you are absolutely correct

Ron Patterson wrote: ↑

Sat Jul 27, 2024 5:56 pm

I strongly suggest youfix .042 endplay or your gonna have a problem that could run $5-7 thsound to fix.
See attached.
Failed Magneto.jpg
Ron Patterson

It's already running that much and the only bad thing to happen was the loss of a magnet plate!

My take: .015 is the Wear Limit... the point at which service is needed to maintain full function. .007 is the maximum clearance you'd want in a new assembly. .003 to .004 is a good initial clearance in a new or rebuilt engine with a straight crankshaft. If I was assembling a rebabbited engine, I'd...

I know that my .042" is way out of spec, but so far I've found: "The Bible": no more than .015" "Rebuilding the Model T Ford Powerplant (Vic Zannis)": .003-.004" "The Engine (MTFCA)": no more than .007" Just to be sure before I pay for an expensive rebuild: Am I doing this right? https://youtube.com...

Oldav8tor wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 22, 2023 9:30 am

CW - I have nothing to add other than you take great photos that help a lot.

I'd love to take the credit, but it's the Samsung Galaxy 23...just does a great job especially with one hand holding the part

The tabs on the gear cluster can be carefully bent back, after annealing the tabs. You only need to open them just enough to remove and install the rods. If you aren't going to re-use the case, the tabs can be bent cold, with a screwdriver tip, but they will fracture. Heat with torch to dull red, t...

John kuehn wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 21, 2023 3:13 pm

This is another lesson how a Model T’s original parts got changed over the years. Lots of parts would interchange but there were differences! It’s not real common to find a “pure” Model T that’s completely original. Good luck with your column rebuild.

Thanks John

Thanks Mark and Speedy The bottom of the steering column is square - like the 26-27 are supposed to have, the steering rod has a "5" cast on it (see below), and the steering gears are 9/13 teeth...so I think the only thing wrong is the steering gearbox, which I am working on a replacement http://tri...

I have to replace the steering gearbox and I've pulled the gearbox from the steering column, but is there a specific way of removing the rods from the gearbox? http://tri-county-aaca.org/images/work/sideview.jpg I'm guessing it's just heating it up and prying them open, but just want to make sure be...