MTFCA Forum

JR Ewing

I would love to find an old wooden bed for my '18, or at least the old bed irons, but have not had any luck. How's the rewooding coming along?

JR Ewing

I will be tuned into this, and I am sure it will be very helpful as I begin to make new wood for my '18 Roadster.

JR Ewing

The type you have mounts to door latch post and do come in L/R's and should work. The 8401X would be both the same. Go down to Richard Eagle's post in the link. He was working on a 1914 but same idea, also in this link are a lot of measurements that might be handy. https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/view...

JR Ewing

Wayne and John, Thank you! This makes sense and confirms other statements I've read regarding different irons may have been used depending on where the body was made. I do have concerns that with the irons I have and feel like the body might be better supported if they connected the tackstrip area d...

JR Ewing

I have another question that I have not been able to find online or on this forum and it is regarding the top irons, not to be confused with the bows. The short irons that were in my 1918 Roadster connected the body at the tackstrip to the wood on the seat pillar and did not connect to the seat fram...

JR Ewing

Steve Jelf wrote: ↑
Fri Jan 17, 2025 11:39 am
Part of having an age that starts with 8 is getting ticked off about things you can't do anymore. I'll find out at the clinic tomorrow if I can still hand-start a Model T.

I think you know what you're capable of more so than the doctors! Wishing you and your car a full recovery.

JR Ewing

I have another question that I have not been able to find online or on this forum and it is regarding the top irons, not to be confused with the bows. The short irons that were in my 1918 Roadster connected the body at the tackstrip to the wood on the "B" pillar and did not connect to the seat frame...

JR Ewing

Thanks. Looks like that should work just as Ford planned.

JR Ewing

Just for further reference, here is a picture of the drivers side panels that I removed from my 1918 Runabout.

JR Ewing

I’ll have to check some of the machine screw sizes I have and see how much of the slot, if any, seats below the tip of the trim. I never did pay much attention to how deep the countersunk areas of the trim is. It’s possible they could be shallower than what is normal depth in order to accomplish a s...

JR Ewing

Thanks for the pictures. Can never have too many reference pictures. So the screws that insert through the trim and hold the rear panels to the center panel were smooth, no slot? I wouldn't be so sure that they didn't have slots, at least to begin with. It's possible that un-slotted screws were use...

JR Ewing

Thanks for the pictures. Can never have too many reference pictures. So the screws that insert through the trim and hold the rear panels to the center panel were smooth, no slot?

JR Ewing

Sand casting or investment?

JR Ewing

Yep, good enough for me too. I just wanted to confirm that this was correct and I have thanks to help from the fine folks on this forum. I have also tracked down some wood plans for this roadster and looking forward to having them in hand. I bought this car with no intention to restore it, but I’m g...

JR Ewing

I am curious about the seam on the drivers side body panel. There obviously needs to be a vertical seam somewhere on this panel since the entire panel was not formed in one piece. My roadster body has an overlapped seam running vertically just at the rear bead edge of the fake door. I was not sure i...

JR Ewing

This is great news. Thank you!

JR Ewing

Thanks Hap, for the info. Everything I have checked indicates that the car is 1918. Yes, the electric starter was added. Engine number indicates it’s a 1918. I’m not sure how to date a body. I have not see any markings to date it nor would I know the subtle differences between the years to date it. ...

JR Ewing

Thanks! Please let me know. I am interested, either complete or not. Anything helps at this point.

JR Ewing

Thanks for the photos, Rick. Fortunately, I have a lot of metalshaping and coachbuilding experience and all the tools and equipment to perform the tasks required. I am just not familiar with Model Ts. I do see that the fake door has an overlapped seam at the rear edge of the bead. From your comment,...

JR Ewing

I’ll have to start stripping those seam areas and see how they are joined and if they are intact as original. I have no doubt that they were mudded over by the previous owner when he last worked on it in the 80s. There are several crude repairs with either fiberglass or just mudding over rusty areas...

JR Ewing

I’m referring to the seams that would be between the rear side body panel and what is typically referred to on later model cars as rocker panels. I’m thinking there is a seam at the front between the “rocker panel” and the bottom of the cowl sides as well. I’ve attached pictures. The drivers side se...

JR Ewing

Another area I am having trouble with finding good reference pictures or documentation is the factory body seams where the cowl, sills and rear quarter panel all converge. Because the previous owner got his hands on it, I am unsure if there were one or two seams in this area, where they were located...

JR Ewing

Thanks Rick. Email sent. From what I can see, it appears to be a helpful article. I appreciate you sharing this. I did not come across it online.

JR Ewing

I am trying to save my 1918 Roadster that had some shotty woodwork done. I would have preferred for the car to have rotted wood since I would have something to use for patterns, but instead all I have is incorrect wood and it needs help or full replacement of a few pieces. I would rather do the work...

JR Ewing

I am still looking for a bed, wood or metal. I would even be interested in a bed iron kit and will just make my own boards. Obviously complete beds are hard to ship so something in the PNW would be ideal. Thanks!

JR Ewing

I’ve been through that website many times. I wish there was more info pertaining to roadsters, but some info seems to apply. If I had to replace all the wood, I’d most likely buy a kit, unless the plans were available. I would like to build as much of the wood I need to replace as possible. It’s jus...

JR Ewing

Thanks. Does anyone know where I can find more information on what this seat box area should look like? See pictures. It looks like repairs have been made. The drivers side is 90 degrees and the passenger side is not. I would think it’s symmetrical but I’m not sure. Any help and/or pictures would b...

JR Ewing

Thanks for the replies. The more I dig into this roadster body, the more I realize how off some things are. At some point somebody attempted to re-wood this body themselves. Some of it looks ok but other areas should be done. I fear I might get carried away and re-wood the entire thing but I’ll do m...

JR Ewing

Thanks. Does anyone know where I can find more information on what this seat box area should look like? See pictures. It looks like repairs have been made. The drivers side is 90 degrees and the passenger side is not. I would think it’s symmetrical but I’m not sure. Any help and/or pictures would be...

JR Ewing

Those pictures are very helpful. Thanks. Can anybody tell me or show me how the seat back mounts and how high it is supposed to mount?

Thank you!

JR Ewing

Thanks, this helps. The snyders seat back I have extends up to, if not past the tack strip on the body. I’m just not sure how high, and how it’s supposed to mount. My gas tank cover is a hinged metal lid. Should this be bordered with wood for the seat base to sit upon and do these same pieces of woo...

JR Ewing

I did find that and browsed thru other pictures, but it’s all pretty vague. Thanks for the reply.

JR Ewing

I have a 1918 Roadster that I’m trying to get back together. I have new seat springs for it but the car is missing the wood that supports the seat back. Can anybody help provide me with the info I need to build the seat back wood support and details on how the seat back mounts to the body and/or woo...

JR Ewing

Hello,
I am looking to buy a pickup bed for a Model T. I am not opposed to a wooden bed or iron kit but would prefer a Ford steel bed and hopefully something in the PNW so that I can drive to pick it up.

Thanks

JR Ewing

I know I can buy them new. Trying to find some original, if possible, before buying new. Thanks

JR Ewing

I am looking for the seat springs, cushion and backrest, for my 1918 Roadster. Thanks!

JR Ewing

Wood or steel would be fine with me

JR Ewing

I’m open to any of the years Ford made a steel bed. I would also consider aftermarket or wooden beds since it’s going on a 1918 T.

Thanks

JR Ewing

I am looking for a steel pickup bed. Something preferably in the PNW or close.

Thanks

JR Ewing

I hope everyone had a Merry Christmas. I thought I should take a moment and post an update on my project that you all have been so helpful with. Today I started the car for the first time since I became its owner. I’m not sure when the last time it ran was, but it ran so well, I decided to drive it,...

JR Ewing

I’m still looking for a speedometer. Thanks!

JR Ewing

Steve Jelf wrote: ↑
Wed Dec 13, 2023 3:39 pm

I want one of those!!

https://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG102.html

Thanks Steve. I am new to Model Ts and your website has been very helpful for guys like me. Glad to see you’re back on the forum and on the road to recovery.

JR Ewing

I always use wax and grease remover until it’s perfectly clean, tack cloth and I spray a tack coat. I don’t paint a lot but it seems like most issues are caused by poor surface prep.

JR Ewing

Russ Furstnow would be your best source for the right parts. Call him at 1-928-699-2376 I spoke with Russ this morning. He confirmed what the proper speedometer is for firewall mount. I may buy one from him, but a restored one might look a little odd in my crusty T so I would still like to find a g...

JR Ewing

Stewart speedometers mounted on a on a steel or wood Stewart instrument panel are recessed into the panel, have a deep mounting bracket on the underside of the instrunment panel, and an elbow where the chain housing (cable housing) is secured. Firewall mounted Stewart speedometers use a shallow, su...

JR Ewing

Hi Larry, The speedometer in that setup you have would work but probably more than I’d wanna pay for the complete set. All the speedometers I’m finding have the angled adapter at the bottom, which I don’t believe will work for a firewall mounted speedometer. Maybe I’m wrong but I thought the cable s...

JR Ewing

I’m still looking for a speedometer for my 1918 Roadster, or something close to 1918. As long as it’s firewall mounted. Thanks.

JR Ewing

I don't know how I missed this but the contacts kit sold by Langs is supposed to be a match both physically and metallurgically to the originals, which Snyders is not. Looking at the photos they look correct. They cost more but in the long run I think they're worth it. PN 5001CONBQ I will have them...

JR Ewing

Thanks Erik!

JR Ewing

Thanks. I’ve heard the repops are pretty cheap. I’ll see if I can find a good original, either the ‘18 and earlier version or the ‘19-‘23. Thanks for your help.

JR Ewing

I did watch that video. I am just waiting for parts to arrive. It shouldn't be long before I see if this old automobile will run. I am surprised how intact this car is for 106 years old. It's a pretty honest car. Not much rust at all and only a couple old repairs. For now, I just plan to preserve th...

JR Ewing

Thanks Frank,
I would like to find the earlier version for my car. If I can't, would one of the later versions work?

JR Ewing

Joshua - my understanding is Blockley only deals direct, not thru dealers. I know some folks who have tried to work a deal with them, unsuccessfully... Thanks. I know of other companies that operate the same way. It’s just too bad there isn’t a more convenient method, or less expensive method to ge...

JR Ewing

Forgive my ignorance, but if the Blockley tires and tubes are the preferred choice, why are none of the US parts suppliers carrying them?

JR Ewing

I also need the threaded cap that fits the swivel. See picture…

Thanks!

JR Ewing

I’m looking for an original hot air pipe for my 1918 Roadster. I know there are a few different versions of this part over the years, so whichever one will fit my 1918 Roadster.

Thanks for the help!

JR Ewing

TRDxB2 wrote: ↑
Thu Dec 07, 2023 6:08 pm

JR Ewing wrote: ↑
Thu Dec 07, 2023 5:24 pm

TRDxB2 wrote: ↑
Thu Dec 07, 2023 1:05 pm
do you care what model it is?
Not necessarily but would prefer it to look somewhat correct.
You need to make sure it works with the other parts & wheels you have., no assumptions with a 100 year old Model T.

The car came with what appears to be everything but the speedometer.

JR Ewing

TRDxB2 wrote: ↑
Thu Dec 07, 2023 1:05 pm
do you care what model it is?

Not necessarily but would prefer it to look somewhat correct.

JR Ewing

Thanks Larry,
Let me think about that. I’m trying to figure out how it mounts to the firewall and if the cable enters the speedometer straight or at an angle. Looks like the one you have is missing the angled adapter right?

JR Ewing

Only one way to find out.

JR Ewing

The following is a description from Langs website. They claim they no longer sell the cheap ones that would lose spring tension. Also, these feature the square holes. Fingers crossed! Langs Description: The bronze metal chemistry and temper are exactly the same as originally supplied by Ford and the...

JR Ewing

Hello,
I am looking for a speedometer for my 1918 Roadster. I have the everything except for the actual speedometer.

Thanks for the help.

JR Ewing

If it has not been mentioned, if your original spring clips are still in good shape, then re-use them instead of using the new ones. Don't worry about the heat of soldering as long as you only heat just enough to flow the solder. If you use a torch, be certain it's a small one and apply heat to the...

JR Ewing

I did order the plastic kit, or at least what was advertised as the “waterproof” kit on Langs website. Over the phone I was told it is made from plastic. In addition to the plastic box panels, I ordered all the hardware and contacts for a complete rebuild. I did see that I’ll need to solder the wire...

JR Ewing

Jerry, The one I ordered is the “waterproof” version from Langs. I was told it’s plastic. I’m still curious about the soldering of the terminals to the bolts. I guess either way it’ll work. skyhunter, I would like one too but since they are no longer available, I plan to wire my own. It’s just a dio...

JR Ewing

Got another question if you all don’t mind. I’ve decided to rebuild the coil box. The wood and contacts looked to be in decent shape but I pulled it out and found that the board had a decent bow to it. This is probably the reason the previous owner jammed so many wooden shims in between the box and ...

JR Ewing

JR Have you considered an E-timer or an I-timer. I have a brand new Anderson under my back seat in case my I-timer breaks down. The I-timer is one of the best things I ever bought. Runs better and climbs hills like a pro. I’ve come across the i-timer when trying to decide which timer to buy. I quit...

JR Ewing

speedytinc wrote: ↑
Sun Dec 03, 2023 4:04 pm
For long life & low maintenance, have the caps replaced with new ones. Then have them set with an ECCT.
One of the coil rebuilders will do a great job. Well worth the money to have a pro change the caps.

I’m sure you’re right. I’ll plan to send them in.

JR Ewing

I had a little time today to work on this project so I decided to test the coils. I initially thought about sending them in for a rebuild but was curious if they were any good. All but one buzzed and created a good spark at the spark plug. The one that did not work had dirty contacts. I cleaned the ...

JR Ewing

Hey Josh if you need some help with your T give me a call, Chris 503 896-0046 or Clayton, Mrmodelt on the forum, 971-645-1524. Clayton is in Vancouver and I live in Beaverton Oregon just across the river. Keith Townsend can help as well he lives in Gresham. Check out Rose City Model T Club, our fam...

JR Ewing

I did come across and article showing a timer being resurfaced in a lathe. I thought about it but would probably spend more time on a fixture than it's worth, since I don't plan to turn many timers. I didn't realize there was two types of centering tools, a large and small. Which one is the large on...

JR Ewing

Thanks Ted, I appreciate that. I’ll give you a call this weekend.

JR Ewing

That’s good to know and something to consider. I’ll have to make sure my cover is centered. I think I saw a tool that can be purchased for this. Probably easy enough to make one in the lathe as well. Seems like I should replace my timer. At least one of the contacts is pretty choppy and the rest are...

JR Ewing

Another area I am learning about is the timer. I am not sure if this current one worked as is or anything about it for that matter. I’ve seen a few different brands of timers for sale online and wondering if I should run what I got or if I should replace it or upgrade to something else. I appreciate...

JR Ewing

Tim, thank you for that information. It certainly helps.

JR Ewing

Thanks Craig. I’ll let you know.

JR Ewing

The serial number on the engine is within the 1918 range.

JR Ewing

Thanks! Yeah, it’s been interesting, but fun. I wish I had more time to work on it. Just been learning a lot. I believe that oil line runs to the Ford Faithful oiler. I haven’t learned much about that but it’s pretty obvious what it does. I have a feeling someone will educate me on it. Thanks for yo...

JR Ewing

If you end up needing engine work I recommend Rick Carnegie -Strong Engine 509-891-6461 Otis Orchards, Wa I spoke to Rick earlier this year about redoing the babbits in a '34 Flathead V8 engine I have. Hopefully he hasn't closed up since then. He was the only one somewhat close (about 6 hours one w...

JR Ewing

Thanks Craig

JR Ewing

Hi Joshua, I'm closer ( Arizona) but shipping as we all know is not just a distance equation. I have a set of 30 X 3 1/2 square fellow non demountable wheels with two older but very low milage Firestone non skid tires & I have gone to 21"wheels on my T's. So would like to sell them all together. It...

JR Ewing

If you can work on airplanes, a simple 1 bbl updraft carburetor should pose no problems for you. I've only done metalwork for vintage airplanes. I wouldn't dare touch the fuel system on one of them. I know with early Ford V8 carburetors, there are guys that specialize in rebuilding them. They know ...

JR Ewing

Thanks. I did come across that article when searching for answers. Very helpful. I will have to open up my carb tomorrow and see if the float is brass and if it’s usable.

JR Ewing

Here’s my carb. It’s a bronze Kingston L4. I’ve been reading that these can be a good carb choice as is the Holley. Just like everything else with this T, I am unsure of its condition and I don’t know anything about these carburetors. I am sure they are somewhat simple but am also wondering if there...

JR Ewing

I have used Fastenall in the past. There is one in the nearest town to me.

JR Ewing

Belliott3 wrote: ↑
Wed Nov 29, 2023 6:56 pm
I have a complete set of four 30x3.5” Demountable wheels with four usable Firestone tires. I’m located in Michigan

Thanks for responding. The distance might be an issue. I wonder if it's even worth looking into shipping them. Any idea on price?

JR Ewing

I have a 1917 - I added the starter but of course, the block is not cast to accommodate a generator. I chose to go with a John Regan magneto charger. It's simply a diode and a light bulb connecting the battery and mag post on the battery box. John produced a nice little circuit board that does the ...

JR Ewing

Yep, no generator mount. I may have to look into the rectifier but the total loss doesn’t sound like an issue to me.

JR Ewing

I am looking for good usable 30 X 3-1/2 tires with or without wheels. I would rather have used tires because new tires will look out of place on my rustic T Roadster, and I know if I put new ones on it, I’ll have to restore the wheels, then things will snowball and I’m not ready for that. I’m sure s...

JR Ewing

I will take a picture when I get to the shop later but I don’t recall seeing any provisions for a generator. Should I consider adding one or will things work fine as is? Is it capable of providing a charge to the battery or will I just have to trickle charge it when not in use? Forgive my ignorance,...

JR Ewing

That makes sense. Thanks.

Here’s another question… my car is a 1918 but at some point someone added a later transmission with electric start and a battery, but no generator. Should a generator have been added? Should I add one?

JR Ewing

Good point, Bill. Whenever working on the transmission, like changing the bands, get several handfuls of rags and stuff them inside on each side of the transmission to catch anything you might drop. One of the most common, problems is dropping small items such as band bolts and washers. It sinks to...

JR Ewing

overwhelmed yet? lol whatever you do don't accidentally drop anything in that transmission access cover like a screw or the key to the car. and anytime you want to do something simple like remove the starter.. DONT! just ask these guys first there's innocent things you can mess up if you don't know...

JR Ewing

RajoRacer wrote: ↑
Tue Nov 28, 2023 4:11 pm
Joshua - was the car parked with the hand brake pulled back ? That surely could congeal the clutch plates together.

I have no way of knowing this, but it certainly is possible. Do Model T owner not park with this brake on, or do they leave it disengaged and chock the wheels?

JR Ewing

The hand lever doesn’t seem to be adjusted properly. The wheel brakes engage before it can engage the clutch. I have printed off the instructions on how to adjust this. Also, I bet the clutch plates are just stuck together since the car has been sitting such a long time.

JR Ewing

Thanks everyone! This is much needed information. Lots learned already and plenty more to come.

JR Ewing

Why do you want to pull the head? Is something obviously wrong? I would not remove the head without cause and a plan. Old and rusty head bolts can snap and spoil your day. I don't want to sound negative. I'm pulling for you and suggest caution. I am wanting to check condition of motor and refresh a...

JR Ewing

Thanks for the help. Maybe I’ll just get it running and see what happens.

JR Ewing

Thanks for all the replies. Although I’m new to Model Ts, I am not new to vintage automobiles and motorcycles. I’ve driven a Model T a few times so I am familiar with starting and driving one. I am just not familiar with the drivetrain or what would cause there to be no neutral. I did order a Model ...

JR Ewing

Yes, I tried the hand brake but still no neutral. I tried different pedal positions between high and low but still no neutral. I believe I just removed the band access panel. It’s the one with the 6 screws, correct? Good to know on where to tie down the front ends of model Ts. . I wasn’t too sure so...

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