MTFCA Forum

Dan ended up buying the pair pictured in my post. Thanks Dan and MTFCA!

I never thought of that!

13.6 will be fine.

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/338773-19 ... e-gas-cap/

You don't need to have a working magneto coil if you run a distributor, no. However, your biggest problem is that a magnet clamp came off and your flywheel assembly may come apart during running and destroy the rest of your transmission! You can fix it now or wait a few drives for it to explode, the...

Steven, FWIW, I drilled a hole at the end of every slot in my thrust plate to provide extra lubrication. Kind of a compromise between the design with four holes and the later design with the large "windows".

Good catch James, I didn't notice the narrow metal band on the brake. Patrick, the wider rear brake drum uses a wider metal and fabric band, You have the wide fabric, but not the wider metal band. Here is what the wider metal band looks like, note that it is the same width as the wide fabric. There ...

The piece of metal is a magnet clamp off of the flywheel. It looks like it bounced around inside the transmission and damaged some of the magneto coils. If a magnet lets go while the engine is running it will cause catastrophic damage, looks like you caught it just in time. You need to pull the engi...

Or, if you prefer, I have these for $125.00 including shipping. If you're interested, PM me with your shipping address and I will reply with payment instructions.

Do you always prime the carb with the ignition off, even when warm? If so, it may be flooded. If the engine is warm, there's no need to prime.

For some reason, there seem to be more front shackles around than rears. There is a pair of rears on eBay right now, I have no connection to the listing or the seller. They need cleaning up, but look to have only light wear. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1920-1927-Model-T-Ford-REAR-SPRING-SHACKLES-Origin...

By 12V Ford coil, Jim means a "modern" style coil that is inside the Truefire box.

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/33 ... 1385090181

Congratulations!

To all those planning to attend - be sensible, follow the mask and social distancing guidelines in place at the location. If you still think the virus is a hoax, ask Rob Heyen - he and his wife both got sick, tested positive, and are now slowly recovering at home with the virus. Rob is sharing detai...

The temperature this morning was in the 40s, so I removed Betsy's air filter and installed her hot air pipe. I also installed the exhaust pipe shroud and duct that goes to my heater grate in the floor.

After deleting all of my browsing history and cookies on my PC with no effect, I finally found the problem - I had accidently resized the screen for the forum to 90%. When I went back up to 100% everything returned to normal.

It looks like it's unique to my PC, the forum formatting looks normal on my tablet.

As long as you're putting on a pickup box, why not make it a tilt box? Sure makes battery access easy. My cut-off touring / pickup has custom rear fender brackets, but I'll bet that regular roadster brackets would work.

The text looks smaller and the thread path headers are abbreviated. If it's something I did, it was by accident. I tried changing the text size in Google from medium to large and it had no effect (yet). Maybe I need to close my browser and re-open it. Nope, no change.

Screen shot attached.

Mine are mounted on brackets extending down from the rear of the frame. I also attached a couple of small reflectors on the tailgate.

I don't know how many degrees of timer rotation Ford originally designed into the system, it would be interesting to know. 1960's V8s could run up to 50 degrees of total (initial + mechanical + vacuum) during light cruise on the highway. If full up on the lever is 15 degrees retarded, and you want t...

I measured the diameter of the stock rod and bought a length of the same diameter music wire at a "real" hardware store that has since closed (the kind that has everything, but only the long time employees know where everything is). You'll probably have to order it online, the cookie cutter chain ha...

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50 ... 1443625758

With some more searching online, I found out that Mike's A Fordable offers the Model A Bridge washers and nuts separately, so I ordered some as an experiment.

https://www.mikes-afordable.com/

LOL! You would think that if it was a scam, they wouldn't care what kind or year of car you had as long as you sent them the money.

I already had a compressor and a shop vac, so I bought a "small" Harbor Freight floor standing, top loading blasting cabinet and 50 pounds of aluminum oxide media. It works great for me. You need the shop vac to pull a vacuum on the cabinet so that media doesn't get blown out of the lid seals. It do...

Good info, John! I had to trim my lower radiator hose to give clearance for the timer rod to pass under without hitting the hose. With my Truefire, I found that if I flattened out the upper rounded end to get enough length, that part of the rod would touch one of the upper timer terminals during par...

One other potential solution - Smith and Jones website shows a valve stem assembly for a Model A, part number A-1501 B, that has a ribbed bridge washer in it. The shape isn't the same, but it could be trimmed if necessary. I have sent an email to Smith and Jones to find out if the bridge washer and ...

Allan, "Crazy Glue" is a brand name in the US for cyanoacrylate glue. It is thin enough to wick into gaps and cures really strong. :) I thought about using solder, if I find another pair of flat 777 size bridge washers I'll try it. For the life of me, I can't remember where these two 777 size flat b...

The bridge washers currently available from the vendors are the larger Schrader 725 size and do not have the dimpling that grips and seals the tube rubber when tightened down. On the currently available metal stem tubes from the vendors, it isn't too much of a problem because the stem is vulcanized ...

http://www.funprojects.com/pdf/ARCFX8.pdf

Steve Jelf has some videos of the efforts he went through to clean his radiator and cooling system:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnOZ2MZt5FY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJ3nkPm87X0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XSLn4KeT3do

Isn't the valve stem hole in a different place on the Chevy rim also? I guess you could drill another hole in the Ford location.

Glad you found the problem. I never considered routing the rod over the top of the lower radiator hose, I just kept the stock routing and made a longer rod.

Check further up in the Classifieds section, somebody just posted a bunch of 724 hardware for sale.

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=15677

I finally made contact with Andy, he didn't get my email but did see my PM, so he'll be getting the gasket.

Sorry guys, hopefully the vendors will be restocked with copper gaskets soon.

I see that you mentioned that you can't rotate the timer far enough CCW even with the rod disconnected. I am not aware of any kind of "stop" in the unit that would prevent you from rotating it a full 360 degrees or more if you wanted. Is one of your timer wires going tight and limiting the rotation ...

Andy Loso, I need to hear from you by the end of the day today on whether you want the copper head gasket or not. If I don't hear back, I'll offer it to the next person in line, thanks. I see from your profile that you have been active on the forum today, did you receive my email offering you the ga...

I don't think any Model Ts came from the factory with two tail lights, either kerosene or electric.

Sounds like your wheels are dished, the bottom picture is correct.

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/25 ... 1354833087

Note that the base of each spoke has a chamfer on one side. Are you sure that the chamfer of each spoke is facing the fillet on the hub? That chamfer is there to provide clearance for the fillet. If the spoke is rotated the wrong way, the sharp edge of the base of the spoke will hit the fillet and p...

Let me try to drag and drop a portrait view pic - seems to have worked for me.

Maybe portrait only works if you drag and drop?

Waiting for an email reply from Andy....

Dan found a local source for a gasket, so he is passing on mine.

Andy, I just sent you an email offering mine for the same price Dan offered for it.

Looks like you have a keeper there (the certificate and the girlfriend)!

Sorry, I only have the one, I am not sitting on a warehouse full of the things.

Dan, I have one, I just sent you an email with a picture of it.

I installed a light tension spring between my choke and mixture rods under the dash to try and reduce their rattling.

Thanks for the info Steve. Unfortunate, but not unexpected.

If you can't find an original, the repros that the vendors sell can be brought pretty close to correct with a little grinding on the weld.

Steve, when you get your Blockleys, please measure the stems to see what size they are, nobody else seems to know.

"old time stem" - Schrader 777 size, or the larger 725 size available from the other vendors?

Steve, if that's the one I sent you, I get all of my tubes from Universal Tire. Their rubber stem tubes are marked Hartford, but the metal stem tube is marked as you show. You could try contacting Universal for more information. The next time I remove a pair of metal stem tubes I'll try to remember ...

Is it this one?

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/25 ... 1346928717

It's Steve. A perfect illustration of how an image posted on the web becomes public domain for future use by anybody.

Just to be clear, Steve is not the seller. If you click on the map you will see that the seller is in Georgia, U.S.

I have no connection to the seller or ad, just providing a heads up. The current reproductions for these are functional, but don't look close to these originals. They can be polished and nickel plated using a Caswell kit to look brand new. :) https://www.ebay.com/itm/MODEL-T-FORD-ORIGINAL-WINDSHIELD...

If you determine that the fuel system is OK and you focus attention again on the Truefire, double check the timing using Truefire's recommended procedure, shown in this thread: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/599638/675109.html?1473784166 I found that I had to substantially lengthen the stock t...

I have no connection to the ad or the seller, just posting the link here in case somebody is interested:

https://www.hcca.org/classifieds.php?parts

I think Neil is on to something. 15 minutes is a long time for a rough running problem to show up. I actually drilled the vent hole in my gas cap a drill size bigger than stock to make sure that the gas tank was adequately vented.

The parts are sold to Jay, thanks Jay and MTFCA!

Model Ts originally came with Schrader 777 metal valve stems and related hardware. The currently available metal stem tubes from the vendors use a larger diameter size, like Schrader 725. I am gradually switching my tubes over to Schrader 777, so I don't need this extra Schrader 725 size hardware, s...

Looks great! Enjoy driving it.

What kind of shape is your coil box in? I haven't experienced it, but others have mentioned that the Truefire is sensitive to low or intermittent input voltage. I installed the Regan kit and all new contacts and insulators in my coil box as extra insurance.

The stem and parts are sold to John, thanks MTFCA!

"Metal stem as originals".

Schrader 777 size, or the larger diameter Schrader 725 size like the metal stem tubes available from the other vendors? Inquiring minds need to know!

My personal opinion, I would use screws. Over time there is bound to be some relative movement between the parts, which will either cause the glue to fail or break the wood near the joint.

Beautiful! Great news.

John Pawlowski, you should grab these, the dust covers are really nice and the rim nuts are hard to find.

John, since you have one torn rubber stem tube that you are trying to salvage, I dug through my batch of stem parts and found enough to make one full Schrader 777 stem set. Not NOS quality, but serviceable. I also have one bridge washer nut and four dust covers that are surplus to my needs. See the ...

Your post is fine, it's just that original, correct size metal stems are getting hard to find, especially as a set of five. Most of the folks who run them on their cars have had to build up a set piecemeal over time. The valve stem caps and dust covers are reasonably available, but the metal stems a...

I don't know the exact angle, but he might be able to use one of his old needles to make a tool to regrind his new needle to match the angle of the old needle (video courtesy of Steve Jelf):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uTiStUTU9IE

Many times, it's called "creaming". The seller skims off the good parts like cream off the top of a milk bottle. When you check out the car in person and some parts don't match what was shown in the original photos, pass on the car and make sure the seller knows why you passed.

If you have taken photos and can move them onto your computer, you can just drag and drop them into the posting text box and the forum software will resize and insert them automatically, like this:

Congratulations!

I cut the rubber stems off of a couple of tubes and installed Schrader 777 metal stems. It will be a slow process, but as I wear out tires I will install new tires and tubes with the correct stems until all of my wheels and tires have been swapped over. I also blasted, primed and painted the spare t...

My lathe is a drill press and a file.

My mill is a vise and a file.

A 1911 Hupmobile just sold for $21K on Bring a Trailer, you could try putting the T up for sale there with a reserve to test the waters.

http://www.cimorelli.com/mtdl/1927/default.htm

https://www.modeltford.com/item/3030SHIM.aspx

I posted a link to this ad on the Early Ford Registry forum, hope you don't mind.

Love those small museums! I enjoyed walking through the Auto World Museum in Fulton, Missouri, founded by William E. Backer, deceased founder of the Backer potato chip company.

https://www.autoworldmuseum.com/

If you can't find one ready made, you could make your own.

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/41 ... 1416288062

Here are some photos that George sent me of his unit.

They sure look good to me! Well, if nobody else wants them, I will take them! Sending you a PM with my info.

I have found that lightly used shackles often fit perfectly in new, un-reamed or only lightly clearanced bushings, whereas new shackles always require that the bushings be fully reamed.

George, if you want to avoid the hassle of boxing it up yourself and you have a UPS store nearby, you can take it to them and let them pack it and box it up. I'm willing to pay the extra cost for the service if needed. - Mark Strange

Looking at the words in the MTFCA Encyclopedia, early '23s could have come with the L-shaped shackles, but some time in 1923 Ford switched to the later U-shaped shackles.

Thanks guys. Steve Tomaso offered up one, but his had some minor damage and was missing a couple of minor pieces. It was disassembled, which would have made it much easier to ship. George House has a nice one and is currently looking at what it would take to ship it to me. I also got an offer for on...

https://www.modeltford.com/item/T-STEVENS.aspx

Universal Tire's website doesn't mention the tube manufacturer, so I'll let folks know when they arrive.

Regarding patching the hole with more rubber and cutting a new hole, sounds too scary to me, I'll let someone else try it and report back.

Another update - the hole left in the tube after removing the too-large 725 size metal stem is larger than the shank of a 777 stem (no surprise). This makes me worry that a 777 stem might not seal the hole perfectly. So, I have ordered a couple of rubber stem tubes from Universal Tire and will try m...

Sorry to hijack this thread, but I'm still looking for an original Ford spare rim carrier like this:

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=14699

I believe you can order the disk from Barbara McCalley, the Gourmet Lizzie:

Barb McCalley
308 Cottingham Court
Allison Park, PA 15101 gourmetbarb2@verizon.net

Neat! I've had mine do a free start just as I'm grabbing the crank handle, it gave me quite a startle.

Well Steve, you're right, the base on the vulcanized metal stems is pretty small, see attached pic. Unfortunately, the knife slipped a bit while I was digging this one out and the tube is ruined. Now that I know the size hole to shoot for, I can use a gasket hole punch to cut the minimum size hole n...

Thanks for the reply, Steve. That gives me confidence to give it a try on one of my spare tubes.

Maybe call Elizabeth at Class-it-Up?

http://www.class-it-up.com/

All of the metal stem tubes that I currently have for my 1924 have the incorrect (too large) Schrader 725 size stems. I have enough of the correct Schrader 777 stems and hardware to switch over. I've seen how folks modify rubber stem tubes to use the Schrader 777 or 888 stems, but has anyone tried t...

Would any of these work? I have no relation to the seller or the ads. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Model-T-Suspension-Shackle/253929145453?hash=item3b1f5b446d:g:-MsAAOSwFYZbv1z2 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Model-T-Suspension-Shackle/263985222526?hash=item3d76bed37e:g:HJAAAOSwWudbv10j https://www....

Be careful that you don't spend more on tooling and materials to restore your own coil ring than a finished one from R.V. would cost.

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