MTFCA Forum

I run 0.030 on mine with no problems. My car is missing its magneto and running a Truefire ignition.

Can you post the free lengths of the two types of springs so that folks can measure the ones they have on the shelf to determine what they have? Thanks!

Great news! I got an email from Dave Engel today saying that he has his site back, so any revenue from views of his videos now go to him as intended.

Neat pic! I remember my classmates in grade school in 1967 sneaking pocket AM radios into class and running the earphone wire up under their shirts so that they could listen to the Cardinal World Series games without the teacher couldn't seeing it.

http://www.dauntlessgeezer.com/DG97.html

Looks like a casting number, I would assume that it means that the block was cast on 5/23/1918. Makes sense, since according to Bruce's book, engine serial number C171352 was assembled in early August 1918.

I removed my hot air pipe and installed my air filter for warm weather driving.

It finally got warm enough yesterday for me to go for a ride in Betsy with the top down and side curtains off.

I had many of my rims blasted and powder coated at a local powder coat shop, one to four in a batch as I found them at swap meets. The powder coater was a car guy and was excited about helping a fellow hobbyist get his Model T on the road. I wasn't in a hurry, so the guy held on each batch of rims u...

All I know about them is what is in the linked older post. They are made in Australia from mild steel and Andrew Brand knows the person in Australia that makes them. Here is a link to Andrew Brand's profile in the older forum in case you want to contact him: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/8025...

My Betsy is a 1924, but she was titled as a 1923 by the previous owner. I chose not to correct the year when I applied for a new title (one less thing to explain to the DMV). I toyed with the idea of replacing my Missouri antique plate with an original year of manufacture plate, but which year? To c...

If you have a rim with sharp edges that you absolutely must save, one approach would be to obtain a pair of "rim savers", they are made in Australia. I got mine through the kind efforts of Andrew Brand, I don't know if he is still able to obtain them and ship them to the US. http://www.mtfca.com/dis...

If shipping takes longer than a couple of days, any virus on the part or wrapping will have degraded by the time it reaches you.

Now, if your delivery carrier unknowingly carries the virus and coughs on your package, all bets are off. :O

Page 25 of the service manual has the Ford procedure for adjusting the length of the hand brake rods. Be careful not to adjust the brake rods too short or they will prevent the brake lever from going forward enough to allow full spring pressure on the high gear clutch pack, possibly causing clutch s...

I know many of you enjoy watching Dave Engel's coach shop videos on Youtube. Be aware that Dave's Youtube site has been hacked and stolen. On my machine, the site shows up now as "Microsoft News". :( The videos are still there, but the income from views of those videos are no longer going to Dave, t...

Wow, very nice! Thanks Jim.

I made a contribution to his site and in his thank you note he mentioned that he is in the process of moving from Texas to Oklahoma. Once he is settled in, he'll pick up working on the site again.

Why not post a few teaser pictures here?

I have an original stamped radiator cap for my 1924, but I can't use it because it's too tight a fit in the neck of my replacement radiator. One of the vendor supplied cast and plated caps fits much better. A perfect example of a deviation in a reproduction part driving deviations in other reproduct...

Those Bendix keys are a lively bunch, they seem to pop out of position at the slightest provocation. I found mine once on top of my transmission door screen, it got tossed up and caught by the magnet. Without the key in place, all the starter force is taken by the spring bolts and they won't last mo...

My Betsy came with the turn signals available from the vendors. The front ones are on little angle brackets that bolt to the front fender irons and the rear ones are on long stalks that space them down from the rear of the frame so that they can be seen even though they are tucked up below the picku...

Scroll down near the bottom of this page:

https://www.mcmaster.com/cork-gaskets

I have my brake lever bent over to the left on my 1924 for more foot room. This made it impossible to get the rear floor board up past both the brake lever and my center Ruckstell shifter. I ended up cutting a notch out of the brake lever slot and re-attaching it with screws and a sheet metal plate ...

Glad you found the problem!

No, there is nothing to hold the rod down in the front clip, it's just a pocket for the pivot rod to reset in.

It sounds like your middle hood hinge could use a good oiling. That will allow the hinge to move freely and prevent the hinge rod from popping up when you open the hood.

Maybe this will be of help.

Here are pictures of a 1909 Dorris touring car that was displayed by George P. Dorris III (grandson of George Preston Dorris) at the 2018 Brass & Nickel show at the St. Louis Museum of Transportation.

Here is a picture of a 1917 Dorris sedan on display at the St. Louis Museum of Transportation and another picture of a 1924 Dorris touring car and Dorris truck displayed at the 2017 St. Louis AACA Easter car show (this year's show has been cancelled like everything else).

Very clever!

I installed one of these near the top of my windshield so that I could see traffic lights with the top up. Works great! I have one on my Honda Element also.

https://lightinsight.com/

So Steve, what's the verdict, did any of the valves or seats show signs of not sealing properly prior to grinding?

I've been driving mine a lot more now that I sold my 1971 Plymouth GTX.

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/70 ... 1491253670

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80 ... 1257864007

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29 ... 1170296383

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/25 ... 1353988848

I think the moderators have put a minimum of 10 characters on posts, try "bumping to the top" or something else with at least 10 characters.

Do folks still adjust their valves using the piston position method, or has that been replaced by setting a consistent lash for each intake valve and a consistent, but slightly larger lash for each exhaust valve.

According to the MTFCA Encyclopedia, the last year for the roll-up rear curtain was 1914.

https://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/S-T.htm#top

I need to make one of those jumpers and carry it in my tool box, just so that the ignition switch knows who's boss and never fails.

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/17 ... 1323880238

Not related to this build, but a funny Centerdoor story. Last year a friend and I were walking through the car corral at Hershey and there were a couple of guys sitting in a Model T Centerdoor checking it out. The passenger was twisting this way and that and we overheard him asking the other guy, "h...

http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG102.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDwSwhy ... G&index=19

Dan's photo shows another feature of the currently available driveshafts that cause me to worry - note that the blend radius at the base of the square section is much tighter on the reproduction than the original. That could increase the stress at the fillet, increasing the chance for a crack.

I found the same thing on a new reproduction drive shaft that I bought, I had to file on the chamfers a bunch to get the driveshaft to fit smoothly into the back of the transmission. Just another case of a low cost supplier cutting (or not cutting enough!) corners.

Pictures?

A "Patina" feeding frenzy!

Love it! Why can't all sewing machines have steerable presser feet?

I haven't heard back from Steven, so I guess he found what he needed from somebody else.

Try Tarn-X, sold in most grocery stores in the cleaner aisle for cleaning silver. Should only take a few minutes, not hours. Rinse well with water after use.

Actually, almost any mild acid would probably work, even lemon juice.

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/25 ... 1331778765

Steven, I don't have any extra stems or bridge washers, but I do have four hex OEM rim nuts with the leather pads/washers, see pic. I also have three of the hex nuts that clamp down on top of the bridge washer, do you need any of those? If interested, PM or email me with your offer and I will reply ...

Looks and sounds great, congratulations!

I got the same "how are you doing, need a favor" email - deleted it.

I use EZ turn like Chad says. I have to disassemble the valve and re-apply EZ turn every month or so, no big deal.

Steve, a package is on its way to you, check your email.

Good idea to polish the seal section of the axles, Dean.

I wonder if there is such a thing as an inexpensive crack inspection kit (florescent penetrant) to check used axles for cracks before installation.

My eBay search criteria for Model T parts is: "model t ford" -fits -fit's I also select a filter to exclude the sellers: macs-auto-parts johnnylawmotors ecklersautomotive whiteracingproductsllc If another seller tries to overwhelm the search engine with their ads, I won't hesitate to add them to the...

Could it be a mismatch between early and late parts that has taken up all of the play between the clutch and brake drums? I seem to recall that early transmissions had a different shim pack than the later ones.

https://www.modeltford.com/item/3320BW.aspx

I have had bad luck with the durability of bicycle speedometers, even on my bicycles, so I would echo Steve's comments on their suitability for a Model T.

If it were me, I would go grade 5. I don't remember the exact explanation why, but I was always taught that the end of the stud that goes into the casting should have coarse threads and the end with the nut should be fine thread. The studs should go into the casting only finger tight. If you are goi...

I finished the fabrication of the hood blanket for Betsy today, here are some pics:

I started work on a hood blanket to go with the winter front I made last month. Dan Killecut was kind enough to send me some pictures of his to use as inspiration. I taped up and cut out some sheets of newspaper to make a pattern, then used the pattern to cut some black woven blanket material from W...

I always wondered if the spindle arms were somehow "indexed" to the spindles, now I know they aren't and have to be allowed to find their correct twist before tightening and cotter pinning the nuts. Thanks!

I have no connection to the seller or listing, just thought someone might be interested.

https://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/d/na ... 52694.html

A few more pics of the finished winter front.

I just barely made it by the end of January, but I finished the winter front for Betsy today. I used common sense fasteners instead of snaps to attach the main flap.

Maybe it's my bad eyes, but it looks to me in Steve's video that the pin is loose in the flywheel and is moving with the triple gear when Steve wiggles it.

Continuing with my winterfront project, I finished cutting out all of the vinyl pieces and bought some heavy interfacing (backing) material to help give the vinyl some stiffness so that it will hold its shape (except for the roll-up center flap, of course). I also sewed the pieces together for the s...

The service manual illustrations show the nuts to the rear on both axles.

I'm cutting out the pieces of black vinyl needed to make a winter front for Betsy. The sides will have more seams than absolutely necessary, but I wanted to make maximum use of the material I have available. I still need to cut out the part for the center roll-up flap and make a strap to hold the fl...

Mark, thank you for posting those winter front pictures! I may try to make one like it on my old sewing machine using some top material I have around.

Are you logged in? The site can only know which ones you have read and which you haven't if it knows who you are by logging in.

Click on Larry's name in one of the linked threads and send him a PM. There may also be an option on the PM screen to send him an email directly.

Larry also posted pics of the original roll that the side curtains were wrapped in, the bag that the vendors sell is not correct. I ended up making my own roll using the dimensions that Larry provided. His thread is in the forum somewhere, if I find it I will edit this post and add a link. :) Links!...

Still more pics of NOS 1925 roadster side curtains:

More NOS 1925 roadster side curtain pics:

That's why you need to contact Larry directly. Be aware that some of the correct fasteners (Anzo) are very hard to find these days. Most folks use "lift the dot" fasteners instead. In the meantime, here are some pictures of NOS 1925 roadster side curtains that were posted elsewhere on the forum a wh...

Hi Donnie, I just sent you payment via Paypal and an email per your request.

Larry Smith has a 1925 roadster pickup and made his own side curtains using Ford factory drawings, he is the expert on the correct fasteners and their locations:

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80 ... 1239027671

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/17 ... 1305234662

Here's the thread where Mark O. shows the use of the OEM puller (the one he later sold).

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/70 ... 1487704581

Thanks Tom, I should have looked there first.

Any info on homecoming 2020? No update on the home page yet.

I have a puller just like your big one. It used to be my "go to" persuader until I got my press.

They look like modern replacements to me. They may work fine as long as you have oilers on your springs and perches, they just won't look OEM. The design with nuts and cotter pins on both ends looks stronger to me than some of the modern repops with pressed-in splined shafts on one end. Those can lo...

Looks like you're making good progress. Those wishbone ball cap studs/nuts need to be wired to each other, not cotter pinned. If you use cotter pins, the nuts will be retained on the studs, but the studs can still back out from the pan. http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/708324/762688.html?1497125...

Donnie, when you're ready, let us in the first batch know what the cost is including shipping and how you want to be paid, thanks!

I fitted one of those on my 1924. Probably wrong, but I only drilled the inside of the upper windshield frame and attached the mirror with a couple of slotted round head sheet metal screws. I have an original 1925 windshield frame that came with my 1925 touring body, it has factory drilled holes for...

The bottom hole of the bracket is bolted to the body using one of the door latch bolts. Look or measure to see which bracket has a lower hole that lines up with the door latch.

http://www.funprojects.com/pdf/WheelpressA2.pdf

http://www.funprojects.com/pdf/Wheel%20 ... %20Jig.pdf

I agree with Scott, for your first T, buy a well running car in good condition. You will be able to enjoy it immediately and there will still be plenty to do to in routine maintenance to keep you busy. Once you are fully familiar and confident working on and operating your first T, THEN you can star...

On my 1924, the gasket between the cowl and the base of the lower windshield frame kept slipping out of place during installation, so I taped it down in a few strategic places with blue masking tape first. Once the windshield frame was in place, I was able to pull the masking tape out, leaving the g...

You may already know this, but Model T parts were nickel plated from the factory, not chrome. I have had good luck using a Caswell nickel plating kit to plate my own small parts (after I clean and polish them of course, and no, I don't plate parts for other people). Here is a link to Caswell's websi...

Mark or remember which way the old roller is pointed so that you can install the new one in the same orientation. Some camshafts have the hole for the pin drilled all the way through, so it is possible to install the roller 180 degrees out if you aren't careful.

I cut the uprights of my press and bolted in very beefy extensions with way oversize grade 8 bolts.

In retrospect, I could have also bolted extensions to the bottoms of the base irons.

No, I haven't had a need to try it, sorry.

Since you have the later single piece gear case, yes, you have to bend the ears (after annealing them so that they don't break). Folks with the earlier two-piece gear cases could grind off the rivets holding the two parts of the case together and slide the rods out without bending the ears. http://w...

Glad you fixed it and thanks for providing closure for this thread!

The MTFCI Judging Standards, Seventh Edition, says that splash shields (aprons) for 1915 had an "Embossed Curve" at the back end. For 1916, it says that splash shields (aprons) had an "Embossed Curve" at the back end and that by August 1916 the shield was modified to follow the lines of the new crow...

Yup, a crack and extruded material on top where the sleeve carries the weight of the car, pretty much normal wear.

Please be sure to replace that spring steel reinforced inner seal with the modern neoprene seal, those steel "fingers" can rub on the axle shaft, creating an area for cracks to form.

There appears to be a way to contact the webmaster on the base site:

http://www.cimorelli.com/

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