MTFCA Forum

Hi R.V., please put me down for one, thanks!

Here are a few photos of the finished car with the top complete and custom side curtains (from Classtique) installed. You can see a few wrinkles from having to stretch the top so much at the rear corners to meet the notch in the rear curtain. Still, not bad for a first attempt IMO.

Oops, I see the issue - the thread is over in the "forum support" section. Can one of the moderators please move it to the General Discussion section?

My understanding is that the forum support section is for reporting problems and discussing solutions for forum software.

Someone posted a thread in (I thought) the General Discussion area asking about using roadster upholstery and top parts for his 1923 cut-off touring project. I posted three replies (total of 15 pictures) showing how I did that very thing on my 1924 cut-off touring. Now the whole thread is gone, did ...

Here is the third of three posts showing the installation of the Classtique one-man roadster top. One thing I would have done differently - I would have installed the rear curtain a half inch higher so that I wouldn't have to stretch the rear portion of the upper top so much to meet the rear curtain...

Here are some more pictures from the roadster upholstery and top installation on my 1924 cut-off touring (now a pickup). The car came to me with a Cartouche upholstery kit for a roadster, it fit the front seat of the touring just fine. If it had been up to me, I would have bought a Classtique uphols...

I didn't know any better, so I forged ahead and bought roadster irons, sockets, bows, and a Classtique one-man roadster top kit for my 1924 cut-off touring. I had to modify (break) one arm on each of the rear brackets that the top saddle irons screw into so that they would sit in the corners correct...

Thanks for the info! I just placed an order from their website and it didn't mention the free shipping, maybe the shipping charge will be removed before they charge my card. Oops, I see the issue, I missed the note on their home page to enter the discount code - I'll call them to get the code applie...

You can practice getting a "feel" for where neutral is on the clutch pedal with the engine shut off and the car sitting still (on level ground, with a front wheel chocked if needed). With the parking brake lever fully forward (transmission in high gear), press the clutch pedal down slowly. At first ...

Looks good!

Got them, payment has been sent along with an email confirming my address, thanks!

I'll take it, send me a PM with your email address and I'll pay via Paypal. I like the Kingston L4 on my 1924, I'll grab this one as a working spare.

Here's a pattern for a blank box. You can scan or find on the web whatever graphics you want and paste them onto this blank to create your own custom spark plug boxes.

A lot of the antique spark plugs that show up on Ebay and swap meets are missing their original boxes. To address this issue with some of my plugs, I scanned an original Edison 14 box and saved it as a .jpg file. If your original box has some flaws in it, you can use a photo editing program to fill ...

Awesome!

So far, all of my driving has been on paved roads, so my splash pans are all painted up and sitting in the basement.

Wayne, please check your email, I sent you an email via the forum.

Beautiful! Will you be making some matching sacrificial floor mats to protect the carpet?

Edison 14s do show up on Ebay occasionally, but you have to have to have a sharp eye - often one or two will be mixed in with a random bunch of plugs for sale, or it will be identified as an Edison, but the description won't spell out that it is a 14 or for a Model T.

If you don't mind, please post a picture of the worn plug. Unless the electrodes are worn down to a nub, I would think that filing the electrode edges back to their original shape and regapping would make it work good as new.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVahNWC ... ex=26&t=0s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iHbR4W5 ... G&index=26

If you're single, put it in your oven set on "clean".

Most garage door openers have up and down stop adjustments on the control unit. Adjust the up stop so that the bottom of the door rises up enough so that you have use of the entire height of the garage opening.

If they're both the same brand (and probably even if they're not), your theory about mixing them is probably correct. I do it all the time if I end up with some "orphan" oil. It goes into the jug that eventually ends up in the Model T. So far, no harm no foul.

My Betsy came to me with a Jack Rabbit clutch. I have no complaints about it. It is "grabby" compared to the stock all-steel clutch, so I have to ease it into high instead of letting the pedal "snap" up. I have a Watts clutch on the shelf if the Jack Rabbit ever gives out. Sorry, it isn't for sale. :)

Here are some earlier threads on the subject:

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/33 ... 1365782371

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/41 ... 1412525632

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50 ... 1437832293

According to Wikipedia (gasp!), Ford continued to produce Model T engines up through August 1941: "The T engine was produced continuously from September 27, 1908, through August 4, 1941, exactly 12,000 days. This makes it one of the longest engines in series production, especially considering that t...

Here's my understanding of it, FWIW. For gasoline, the chemically ideal ratio of air to fuel is around 14.7 to one. This assumes perfect mixing of the air and fuel. Since the mixing is rarely perfect, most cars are set up to run a bit on the rich side of ideal, this helps ensure that all of the oxyg...

I've never spoken with Henry Ford or his contemporaries, so I can't be positive. Period Ford catalog photos on pages 198 and 199 of Bruce's book show the sedan with assist handles, at least on the driver's side as shown in the illustrations. The photo on page 202 (and a closeup on page 203) are labe...

I found my rebound straps in the mens wear section at Walmart, they work great.

See pages 202 and 207 of Bruce's book to see photos of an original sedan "assist handle".

A long time Mopar friend of mine has operated a paintless dent repair business for decades. He has a rack of tools and loads of patience, but he can work wonders. Dealers pay him big money to tap the dents out of their inventory after a hailstorm.

I had four Harbor Freight stands that I bought cheap at a garage sale. The numbers on them didn't match the notice, but they sure matched the pictures, so I tossed them anyway.

Note how Steve's original bracket is spot faced at the bolt hole so that the bolt head sits flat. The current reproduction brackets that I have seen don't have the spot facing.

------------- Heresy Alert! -------------- Heresy Alert! --------------- It wouldn't be pretty, but if your car has already been converted to a starter, generator and battery there are inline electric water pumps used on some newer cars. They're all designed to work on 12 volts negative ground of co...

Are you sure you need the water pump? Perhaps the stationary pump impeller is blocking the natural thermosiphon circulation of the coolant after the engine is shut off.

I have no connection to the ad or seller, just providing the link in case somebody is interested:

https://www.hcca.org/classifieds.php?cars

Hi Tim, I just sent you an email about getting one original orphan end (or a pair if you only have pairs that you don't want to break up).

Wonderful work!

Here's the one on Betsy, my 1924 cut-off touring. I installed it because one of my pan ears had a weld repair and I wanted extra support in case the weld ever failed. Note how the nuts firmly clamp the hooks onto the threaded rods to prevent relative movement that can cause the hooks to rub a groove...

I stuck a dense piece of foam sheet on mine, but it has probably worn through by now. Leather sounds like a better plan. Be sure to cut a hole to allow access for the oil drain plug!

Here you go.

John, if you haven't already, you can install a fuse in the location shown in the diagram to protect everything downstream from the starting switch (except for the starter and starting wire itself):

If you decide you want vinyl upholstery, you might consider asking Classtique to make a custom kit for you using "distressed" vinyl to go with the patina on the rest of the car.

Earlier discussions on the subject: https://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/1915-16H.htm http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/822076/868807.html?1527859810 http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/599638/649417.html?1465890913 http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/284488.html http://www.mtfca.com/discus/mes...

Welcome! Do you have any pictures of your project?

I found this diagram elsewhere on the forum, it may be an illustration from a vendor's instructions:

Wow, you are one lucky kid, 13 years old and you own a 1924 Model T Touring car! Welcome to the forum! :) Here is a link to an old thread showing some pictures of 1924 touring cars with the front side curtains mounted. http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80257/113888.html?1258043640 Here is a link ...

Here's an older thread showing the correct bolt and nut:

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/59 ... 1453822183

I don't have any extras, but here is a link to a collection of them on Ebay, hopefully a good pair of rear ones are in there somewhere. I have no connection to the seller or the ad: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-34-Used-Ford-Model-T-Leaf-Spring-Clamp-Clips/172348105993?hash=item2820bf6509:g:3vcAAO...

According to the Encyclopedia, 1922 was the last year for a gas tank cover. It served a useful purpose, but deleting it after 1922 saved a few pennies per car. I don't like having the seat springs rubbing directly on the top of the tank of my 1924, so I use a piece of corrugated cardboard cut to sha...

Never had to use them for a Model T, but in my previous life as a Mopar guy I preferred these clips to the wire ones.

http://retro-motive.com/door-trim-panel ... ty-25-847/

I have no connection to the seller or the ad:

https://stlouis.craigslist.org/pts/d/sa ... 39819.html

Great news!

I had this adventure in Betsy, my 1924 Model T cut-off touring (now a pickup) just yesterday: I left the house around 9:30 am in the Model T to drive one of my normal routes from my house to the town of Otto, a 16 mile round trip. On the way north, I had to stop briefly with some other cars for some...

I need to get a good used industrial walking foot machine. My 1946 Singer 15-91 doesn't have a walking foot and it struggles to sew through more than two layers of vinyl. They make walking foot attachements, but the ones I have seen are made of cheap plastic and don't look like they would be up to t...

I called the hotel this morning to see about moving my reservations from 2020 to 2021. The desk clerk said that the governor has decreed that hotels HAVE to offer free cancellations or changes to reservations affected by the pandemic (with no corresponding compensation to the hotels), but the decree...

Was your dream like this?

Kind of a longshot, but doesn't Jay Leno have a Rochester Duesenberg engine in his ReVere? Maybe his water pump was rotted out and his shop made a replacement using their digital 3D scanner and CNC machine. If they did, maybe they could make another one for you! You'll never know if you don't ask. :)

If Charlie's method doesn't work, go back to the hub puller, but make sure the wheel opposite of the one you're trying to pull is jacked up off the ground and use a hand sledge or an air hammer to whack the center bolt.

I have driven mine with the temperature in the teens as long as the roads are clear. I do use side curtains and I have a rudimentary home made exhaust shroud heater. It isn't very powerful, but it's better than nothing and shows that I at least tried.

I wonder if a prior owner cut a taper into some of your loose lugs so that they would work with the cone nuts. If you want to switch to all flat nuts, the vendors sell modern reproductions of the lugs and nuts. Unfortunately the modern lugs will not have the embossing. https://www.modeltford.com/ite...

Kelsey wheels use loose lugs with flat back nuts and have felloes and rims like this:

I have no connection to these ads or the sellers, just providing links in case somebody is interested: https://stlouis.craigslist.org/pts/d/fallon-model-top/7129100433.html https://stlouis.craigslist.org/pts/d/saint-louis-ford-model-parts/7107356817.html https://stlouis.craigslist.org/pts/d/saint-ch...

The files are .zip files (compressed). You need to unzip them using the program Winzip (downloadable for free, just do a Google search).

Will you be able to install the radius rods with the driveshaft already bolted to the housing?

Great setup! Sure beats the trash can that I used to support my driveshaft housing. I did cut a hole in a 2x10 and bolted it to my workbench to support the axle housing.

You want both radius rods adjusted to the same length, but you also want to make sure that you don't pull the axle tubes too far forward. The axle tubes should both end up at right angles to the driveshaft.

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/33 ... 1358116875

Try emailing the photo to yourself, then open the email and save the attached photo to your desktop for insertion into the forum.

Contact Stan Howe, he knows those Strombergs backwards and forwards.

Beautiful!

Please post a link to a Youtube video of its first startup and run.

Just ask for a Group 1 6V battery. I got the one I have now at Auto Zone. The one before that I got at CarQuest.

I believe that Tractor Supply also carries them.

Nice!

Congratulations!

Adam's statement perfectly summarizes the difference between a wood that has high strength but low work of fracture (Oak or Maple) versus a wood with high strength AND a high work of fracture (Hickory).

Stick with hickory. It has the best combination of high strength (ability to carry a load) and a high work of fracture (resistance to shattering, otherwise known as toughness).

https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplg ... 3/ch04.pdf

Not exactly on topic, but I saw that the EAA fly-in at Oshkosh is cancelled for this year also.

Hi Scott, I'll take one of each, check your email, thanks!

Maybe it's a period aftermarket cap with a ratchet feature?

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50 ... 1430790748

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/70 ... 1491688605

I noticed that the top framing on Betsy rubs on the top material when the top is down, to the point where it has worn a small hole in the rear curtain. So today, I glued and sewed a small patch onto the inside of the curtain where the abrasion takes place. Not so much to plug the hole, rather to pro...

Is it even possible to remove and replace demountable bands through the small opening in the early hogshead? Just trying to learn.

Good advice!

Another shipping tip - if you're shipping something metal and heavy, don't use those foam packing peanuts - the part will shred the peanuts in transit and the shreds will find their way into all the little crevices in the part. Use bubble wrap or even wadded up newspaper instead.

Interesting article on the merits of gas vs. electric cars of the 1920s:

https://www.automobilemag.com/news/comp ... -model-90/

A quick Google search revealed this company in New York:

http://www.waltersmirror.com/mirror_resilvering.php

Or this company:

http://historicinteriors.com/mirror-res ... o-mirrors/

Oops, my bad, I should have picked up that he said he has a '27. I am not aware of any wood spoke length variations for 21 inch wheels, just variations in the tenon diameters, does anyone know differently?

Do a Google search for "model t ford magnet recharge youtube", there are some good videos showing the procedure, both in the car and with the flywheel assembly on the bench with a coil ring placed on top of it.

Hayes felloes also use the slightly longer spokes (Kelsey and Hayes were separate companies in the days of the Model T). If you have Kelsey felloes, they will have four slots punched into them for the separate lugs to bear against. If you have Hayes felloes, they may be stamped "Hayes" somewhere one...

The magnetism is in the permanent magnets, not the coils. For the coils to generate magnetism, you would have to apply a small amount of DC voltage between the output terminal (the solder button on top) and the coil unit frame. If you decide to do that as a test, I think you will find that the polar...

I have no connection to the ad or the seller, just providing a link in case somebody is interested:

https://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/d/na ... 68853.html

Scott, If you confirm that Ken paid for one but he never received it, he can have the last one instead of me. I will hold off sending my check until I hear back from you one way or the other.

Hi Scott, email sent - Mark Strange

I have no connection to the ad or seller, just posting the link here in case somebody is interested.

https://stlouis.craigslist.org/pts/d/sa ... 56817.html

Original seat springs had retention prongs? I learned something new today!

Looks good to me!

Note in Steve's photo how his front pan bolts are installed upside down from the rest to provide more clearance for the timer terminals.

Be aware that Snyder's sells an "untrimmed" rubber front floor mat that has a generous amount of extra material all around compared to their pre-trimmed mats. I used one to custom cut a front mat for my 1925 Touring body.

Bruce's book talks about the 1915 -1916 sedans starting on page 201. It mentions that 1915 sedans had an aluminum body and different splash shields and rear fenders from the "other models", but by 1916 it had a steel body and used the same splash shields and rear fenders as the "other models". It me...

My 1925 touring body rear seat area currently looks like Dan's pictures, a single 3/4 inch thick board that fits into slots in the sides of the seat pan and is held with a single slotted wood screw on each side. The board is placed so that it will provide support for the seat bottom springs. It is s...

This is a very interesting thread! Did 1925 Touring cars have a board under the rear seat springs? I know that the front seat did not have a board, I guess Henry figured it was OK for the front seat springs to sit on the gas tank. On my 1924 cut-off touring (now a pickup), I didn't like seeing witne...

Look right to me, well done! Now make sure that the timing lever on the steering column is fully up, and adjust the timing rod length (by bending as required) so that the end slips into the timer arm without disturbing its position. Then, have a helper move the timing lever through its full range an...

Search found 675 matches