MTFCA Forum

JTT3 wrote: ↑
Tue Jul 15, 2025 8:58 pm
Erik I believe it’s on the address section sent to you on the magazine package, if not call the club & they can give it to you. Best John

Erik, John is right. It's on the address label on the MTFCA magazine.

Quit wasting your time measuring any distance. THEY'RE ALL DIFFERENT. Try this: https://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG97.html Steve, would it also work to put a magnetic angle finder on the bottom pulley. Set it at 0 degrees when #1 is at TDC and rotate until the angle finder is at 15 degrees? Just thinkin...

love2T's wrote: ↑
Mon May 26, 2025 9:59 am
BTW...shipping on previous starter was around $25....others may vary a wee bit.

That starter works good. Thanks again, Kent

Got the 'ol girl back together this weekend. Rebuilt the rear axle/driveshaft, added AC brakes, wire wheels and new tires, foot throttle, starter solenoid, adjust bands and oil change. Hoped to have it done by early spring. Health issues took me longer than I anticipated. Ran her on jack stands last...

In the process of putting AC Brakes on my Tudor. I'm leaning towards cable set up instead of rods but weighing the pros and cons.

I confirm what Allan said. I tried welding zinc and it did not go so well. What zinc does well at is forming to a mold, even more so than aluminum. I suppose you could research any safety concerns about re-pouring zinc into a mold that is made from the piece itself. Vernon, Did you try TIG welding ...

I too can see no reason for the car to drive in reverse and not forward. If the gears are in mesh to drive backwards, they are in mesh to do the same forwards. Your search may not yet be over. Allan from down under. Allan, Is it possible that the woodruff key sheared/messed up do to the pinion nut ...

That ring gear is waaay nicer than the one that was in mine.

Bob, Just watched your video. Very informative, and the tips on valve stem grinding, and getting the proper valve lash is fantastic info. Well worth watching, nicely done sir.

Just as an aside, USPS sucks right now, and anyone sending receiving should be patient. Further, I've had first class beat Priority. 2-3 day Priority is no longer 2-3 days, and nobody should believe it is. The only thing it buys you is tracking. I send stuff via Priority every week, and my average ...

Hi all, I'm working on disassembling my 3-speed aluminum Warford to clean it up and to change one of the gears out. The transmission was found in disuse, but inside was well lubricated and in generally good condition. The teeth on one gear were munched pretty bad, but other than that all looks well...

That's awesome!

John, From what I've been told the brass thrust gear seems to be the main part they can't get.

JTT3 wrote: ↑
Sat Apr 26, 2025 10:50 am
Have you tried Chaffins Garage

No I haven't. I did try Snyder's and Lang's and was told 4-6 months as parts are on backorder. That's the reason I thought I'd ask here to see if there are any that might be for sale.

WTB good small drum Ruckstell axle or complete kit to convert rear axle to a Ruckstell (19-25).

Motor kicked back a bit when starting, now won't turn over (sounds like it's trying). Battery, switch, power to starter seems ok. is the bendix jammed into the flywheel? Henry, Check the woodruff key that it hasn't sheared part way. May be the cause for misaligned bolts. had it happen to me. Not re...

Austin, Facebook marketplace has one listed in Stevens Point, WI. for sale.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/it ... tn__=!%3AD

Looks very familiar. The only difference is mine had bronze thrust washers, but everything else was toast too.

speedytinc wrote: ↑
Sat Apr 12, 2025 10:07 pm
I have a 6" square plate welded to a thick wall tube/pipe. Screw a nut on the axle.

I made the jig yesterday, only difference was my bottom plate is 8" square. It worked perfectly! Both axle gears are pressed on and ready to continue the rear axle rebuild.

Got a hub, thanks MTFCA...

A large nut or castle nut backwards is enough. Face flush to the end of the threads. An anti bend tube or pipe is important for the tough fits as to not bend the axle. Thanks John, for the info. I'm going to make a cage/tube set up with a nut tack welded to plate welded/centered on bottom of tube.

Photos to show the process of removing axle gear. First push gear further on with a large socket. IMG_3991.jpeg Take out the half circle keys. IMG_4006.jpeg Then use a smaller socket to push out axle. IMG_4007.jpeg Pieces separated. IMG_4010.jpeg Note that I had to change my press set up for the di...

Lots of very good advice here, the way I did my swap to new axles was of course to verify the sizes of both gear and axle. Then, being the old truck mechanic that I am, I put the axles in the freezer overnight, I pop them in the vise and warm the gear just a bit. working quickly it will tap on with...

Wanted to buy one rear hub. Need a hub to support rear axles to press axle gears on. Keyway need not be perfect. Thanks, Kent

RajoRacer wrote: ↑
Sat Apr 05, 2025 11:25 am
Antique Auto Ranch - Tom Carnegie, I believe. And, he's in Spokane, WA.

Thanks Steve

Frank thank you for the illustration what you pictured is what he purchased i will take a second look at it. The man up in montana is still making the ones he sold at the winter clinics itreplaces the drain plug on the bottom of the engine and can be mounted on both sides of the engine it also has ...

Shrshot wrote: ↑
Fri Apr 04, 2025 9:54 am
Thanks for the suggestions. One of these methods should do the trick, I'll give it a go later today.

Update..... The bushing puller I got from Snyder's works flawlessly. Babbitt bushing out in minutes.

Thanks for the suggestions. One of these methods should do the trick, I'll give it a go later today.

It has been a while. I tried with a driveshaft and broke the rivits off. Then I got a new torque tube and I think I bought a 1/2 steel pipe or rod and punched it out with that. The bushing was either babbit or steel. I should have tried a magnet on it for curiosity sake, but it was mighty hard and ...

That sounds great. Just be careful of those rivits inside the torque tube. I sheared some off one time removing the bushing and had to get another torque tube. Dime a dozen around here. Dave did you use the bushing puller like the one Snyders sells, or is there another method to remove it without d...

If you have a new driveshaft and a new U-joint, just throw the old one in the trash. Who cares if you cannot get the old U-joint off the now broken driveshaft. Just work with the new parts. You should have no problems with the new parts. That's my game plan Dave. I was fortunate enough to locate an...

If you have a new driveshaft and a new U-joint, just throw the old one in the trash. Who cares if you cannot get the old U-joint off the now broken driveshaft. Just work with the new parts. You should have no problems with the new parts. He would like to reuse the torque tube. I was able to locate ...

Can you attach a slide hammer to the other end of the drive shaft? Since you're apparently going to replace the drive shaft, maybe you can attach/weld something to the other end of it, that would allow you to attach a slide hammer. Gave it try today, made a bracket and attached it using the pinion ...

speedytinc wrote: ↑
Sun Mar 30, 2025 11:44 pm
Is the U-joint a new repop?
I have not encountered Your situation with original parts.

I'm not sure but I don't think so. It's junk by my definition anyhow. The side to side endplay is all of 3/32". I can't believe it didn't vibrate like crazy or hit the insides of the torque ball.

I would get a different U-joint. The one you have is compromised if it is that hard to get it off the driveshaft. I did get new driveshaft, front bushing, U-joint, and spool assembly. The spool was broke, along with the pinion gear being chewed up due to the keyway and hyatt bearing sleeve being to...

Check the edges of the bell mouthed ball opening. Sometimes wear will form a lip the constrains the U-Joint knuckles from slipping out the opening. If that joint is stuck on the drive shaft square, lots of penetrating oil, restrain the drive shaft, wiggle and pry out the U-joint. Dan it is stuck on...

Check the edges of the bell mouthed ball opening. Sometimes wear will form a lip the constrains the U-Joint knuckles from slipping out the opening. If that joint is stuck on the drive shaft square, lots of penetrating oil, restrain the drive shaft, wiggle and pry out the U-joint. Dan it is stuck on...

RajoRacer wrote: ↑
Thu Mar 27, 2025 5:38 pm
Those "bolts" would be the u-joint pin plugs.

Yes those are the ones.

In the midst of rebuilding my rear axle. Car is a 26 Tudor, however drive line is ??? Numbers on engine I believe it to be Oct. 1919. Pedals and hogshead are early 20s. Rear axle is small drum early 20s. The dilemma I have is the universal joint is stuck on the driveshaft. I'm replacing everything e...

Pretty much going through the same thing with my rear axle. Whoever went through it prior to my ownership, cut a few corners and it ruined just about everything inside it. The housings and torque tube are about the only thing being reused; the rest will be wall art for the garage.

Karl, PM sent

Steve that block could have been repaired fairly inexpensively. Cast CAN be welded one of two ways. Arc welded with nickel rod, implementing both preheat and post heating. The second way, in the case like your pictured block where rust is more the case. Preheat the cast and gas weld it. Brazing it u...

Got mine today also. Great article and pictures of Austin Farmer and his 22 touring. Kudos to you Austin! After meeting you in February and now reading your article, I can say I'm proud to know you.

Found one, thanks mtfca

Looking for a good carrier if someone has one they'd be willing to part with. I could get by with the half that the ring gear bolts to. For a standard rear axle, 3.63-1. Whoever rebuilt this rear axle before my owning it omitted the thrust disk between the axles. Excessive endplay wore one carrier h...

In viewing the above image, does anyone think the “new, better bearing” is a bit shadetree? The instruction even says it isn’t an ideal fit... Picture an original axle shaft being a light slip fit to loose fit in the inner bearing race of that modern bearing. The axle shaft is now “rolling” on two ...

varmint wrote: ↑
Mon Mar 03, 2025 9:22 pm
No Kent, they are 5/16-18x1/2" slotted round head machine screws.
Since you are a member, if you need 6 for yourself, I can mail them to you.

Thank you Vernon, I sent you an email reply.

Are those screws are 1/4 X 20 thread?

I have a #63 key, & switch assembly. The key is worn on the face side, #63 is readable. The ammeter is broken in the assembly. The key switch and light switch both work. I can't tell if there's a letter "K" on the face due to being worn almost smooth. I don't know if this is any help, you can let me...

Ya know what they say Kurt, "All good things come to those who wait". Way to go on a well-done job! By the way, I received the Warford brochure in the mail Saturday. Thanks again, now enjoy taking your T for drive.

Wondering if I should replace this drive shaft now that it's out of my 1915 roadster. The thrust bearing cut a groove, visible in the photo. I'm installing a modern pinion bearing from Texas T Parts which I assume is the old Fun Projects design. Phil IMG_0443.jpg Replace it. I'm rebuilding the rear...

Does anyone know if the foot throttle that Texas T Parts use to sell is still available? Thanks in advance.

We are trying to put together a plan to attend. It's about 6 hours from us, really seems like it would be a great time. Now I have to figure out how to get our camper and the model T both there...

It's yours Austin

I have a radiator that was in my 26 tudor. Having replaced it with a new one, I don't have a need for this one. It did have a slight leak on the drivers side lower corner, just enough to be a nuisance. Someone needs it come pick it up and it's yours. I could use the garage space more... lol

Kurt, I would like to purchase a copy also.

1925 Touring wrote: ↑
Mon Jan 13, 2025 11:18 am
West bend is Saturday January 25th.
IMG_20250113_121718.jpg

Thanks Austin.

Kent If you make it to the Model T University later this month in West Bend, you can discuss with the experts. Perhaps someone has some Ford hubs. You state you made some yourself and it would be nice if you have a picture to share. I trust that you did a good job with what you made yourself. What ...

Pending sale on wheels/tires.

Adapters do not support the wheel in the center hub. All the support comes from the stud nuts only. Modern vehicles all have a center casting or hub that fits the center rim I.D. close. Those adapters are dangerous. Prone to failure. There was a recent post where a rear failed on a roadster pickup....

You do know the wood wheel hubs will not work with wire wheels? That usually ends up ruining the wire wheels. Why is this? I have made adapter plates that fit the wheel with the same measurements as the wire wheel hub. They are centered and chamfered to fit the hub exactly. I guess I don't understa...

JTT3 wrote: ↑
Sun Jan 12, 2025 11:11 am
Kent I sent you an email earlier but please give Austin first choice, he’s a young guy and we need more of them in the club. Best John

John, Will do.

1925 Touring wrote: ↑
Sun Jan 12, 2025 11:07 am
I am interested in this set of wheels and tires. I would be driving from northern Illinois.
Sent an email.

Austin I did reply to your email.

I have the spoke wheels, rims, and tires that were on my 26 Tudor. I have upgraded to wire wheels and selling these. They Do Not have the hubs in them as I used them on the car. I have bolted the front side ring and fender washers on the backside to hold wheel together tight. Also included is the sp...

Love seeing these all photos of when these cars were nearly new. What a great time it would have been to witness this. Thanks for sharing all the photos!

As someone who has run this route probably 300 times or more in my 4 plus decades of transporting classic cars....Here is the route I have found to be the best. I-70 east out of Indy, I-270 around Columbus to I-71 North to I-76 east to I-80 east to I-81 North to I-84 east & that dead ends into I-90...

RajoRacer wrote: ↑
Mon Jan 06, 2025 4:13 pm
There are three styles - early w/flange for d.s. spool, later w/no flange for spool & '25 ? - '27 with stepped housing at the u joint end.

Does the stepped housing have the U-joint housing riveted to the tube?

Thanks Gene, I will get ahold of you when I get the ball cap out and shaft measured.

Gene I need to replace my 4th main ball cap. Where should I take the measurement to determine if I need std. or .002 under? I pulled the rear axle assembly, and have quite a bit of oil in the torque tube leaking from the ball cap. Have to repair/rebuild rear diff as spool housing is cracked and leak...

Thanks John, I missed it when I looked earlier...

WTB - Looking for door lock cylinder and key for 26-7 sedan passenger door.

Adam, sent you an email.

I’ve got one that has been disassembled, cleaned, checked, and all the parts are usable. It has fair quality gears. It has been partially assembled with all the needed parts included. I’d sell it as it is for $900. I can do the final assembling and adjustments for an additional $300. The shifter is...

Pulled the rear axle/driveshaft out of my 26. Found my leak right away. The spool has a crack from end to end on the top side. I'm going to guess the radius rods being loose on the front contributed to this. Well continue on, tear it down and see what else I find. Happy New Year T'ers.

PM responded to Mike

Definitely not pristine but very nice quality driver. Older restoration, but I couldn't pass it up. 26 Tudor

Ed, sent you an email.

WTB AC brakes for small drum rear axle. I can fabricate rods/cables, equalizer set up, and brake pedal linkage. Mainly looking for Brake band and mount set up. Thanks, Kent

Sent you a PM this morning.

Thanks for the info, it's kind of what I was thinking. I started to pull the rear axle last night and going to rebuild it. It has had a leak at the left wheel and where the pinion spool bolts to the axle housing. I know the disk/axle shafts must have some wear as there's some end play between the sh...

For what it's worth, I have a 26 Tudor sedan. Far from pure/original. It has a 24 engine/trans and a 25 rear axle. I enjoy it a lot, and will continue to. They're just the most fun you can have going slow.

I have a question about rear axle outer bearings/sleeves. How much up/down or side to side movement should there be between the axle and the outer bearing?

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