MTFCA Forum

speedytinc wrote: ↑
Tue Jan 13, 2026 12:08 pm
I wonder if a bore scope could save you a lot of work.

I was thinking the same thing. Go in through the fill plug down over the top of the carrier, should be able to see it.

Kent I know the physics of balancing and how it applies to balance beads and the theory of how they work. I am NOT a tire professional nor an expert in Balance Bead applications, and given that the factors involved have changed, the specifics of what went wrong in your application are beyond any ce...

Kent I know the physics of balancing and how it applies to balance beads and the theory of how they work. I am NOT a tire professional nor an expert in Balance Bead applications, and given that the factors involved have changed, the specifics of what went wrong in your application are beyond any ce...

Did you use the correct amount for the application? Did your tires have any moisture or tire sealant in them? Yes I did per the instructions on the box they came in. Counter Act Balance Beads correct amount (3.4oz) for 265 X 65 X R20 tire. As I wrote in my original reply, they did work once I reach...

I have only tried Balance Beads once, and I'll never use them again. I put them in the new tires (Coopers) on my 1500 Ram P/U. Once it reached a speed of 40 mph or faster, they were great! But every time I would stop, the beads would all settle in the bottom of the tire. When I'd start going again t...

I wish I was closer to you Gene. That's a very good price for what you have listed. A perfect lathe for home shop or small business use.

KimDobbins wrote: ↑
Thu Dec 04, 2025 1:08 pm
wish I wound have seen that, could have used that on my motorized KRW HCCT. Guess im one of the 7.4%.

Guess that includes me also... I don't check the forum/classifieds every day. Check them as often as time allows. Had I seen them 4-5 hours earlier I would have bought it, guess not...

Non-synchro gear boxes will shift with no grinding if handled correctly. You can actually shift one faster than most synchro boxes if you have good throttle control. True statement Pat. As a retired truck driver, you only need to use the clutch taking off or at a complete stop. Whether a 10,13,15, ...

If your I phone needs to be charged during the day, give the thing a rest! If you use a radio, you miss out on the cadence of a nicely tuned set of coils. If you can't get anywhere without electronic navigation devices, buy a map. Your T has a happy pace on the road. You don't need a speedo to find...

Without knowing just what is required in thread length and length of plain shank, it may be better to turn off some of the under side of the bolt head, depending on requirements. Allan from down under. No need, length is good as is. Just shave the top of the head of the bolt about half the thicknes...

There have been several discussions about various reasons as well as the the pro's & con's on switching to 12 volts over 6v in the past. To summarize some of the primary reasons mentioned were to boost starter performance, hotter spark, brighter lights and a USB connection for phone or GPS. NOTE:Al...

Looking at carriers I have. Most have grooves where the thrust plates have dropped down and worn a place. What does that hurt in the long run? I know why it happened, only one pin holding the plate. See red circle in picture. What if you added a second pin across from it to hold th plate from more ...

Are deep cycle batteries suited for automotive use? Deep cycle batteries are NOT good for starting a car because they are not designed to provide the high-burst of power needed for an engine's starter motor. They are built to supply a steady, low amount of power over a long period. Starter batterie...

Dan Hatch wrote: ↑
Wed Oct 29, 2025 12:58 pm
Does it say Made in Canada on the radiator shell?
Maybe just has a Canadian engine?

Dan, Good eye, it does say "Made in Canada" on the front radiator shell below the Ford script.

A Canadian built T

Yesterday I made and installed a new spark rod from steering collum to timer. clean and gap spark plugs, set timing and clean timer. Replaced all 4 coils, (Thanks, Ron Patterson) I thought it ran well before, wow does it run great now. Took it out for a couple hour ride. Amazing what a little mainte...

If we don't know about potential scammers, we can't do anything about it. We can't possibly read every thread of every forum. Someone needs to alert us. Thanks for this one Frank. He's been banned and removed. I thought that's what I was trying to do. I sent you an email on Sept 17, 2025. Your resp...

Awesome picture! That's one you won't soon forget.

Check with Snyder's, that's where I got mine from.

First pic. is OK. They are not meant to be tightened right up. No point is having a spring loaded cap if the springs are already compressed tight. Allan from down under. Allen, I got a question. I understand the springs not being compressed, but why do some of the vendors sell the steel shims to pu...

So, I wish I had seen this. The scammer Richard Armstrong strikes again. He got me for a bit over $100. Can the powers that be ban this stain on our board please I feel your pain, he got me for $325. Luckily, I had paid with Paypal (Goods and Services) and was able to file a claim and got credited ...

11 14 17 casting date makes it an 18 block, if that's any help. Allan from down under. WRONG! That block was machined and assembled into an engine the next day! That serial number is in the books as being produced Nov 15, 1917. Remember this is during WW1… Sometimes there was NO time between castin...

Can this tool be used with the engine in the car?

I can't wait to see it in paint done. That is a awesome build!

Took the Tudor to our family reunion. Was a great ride and a great day.

Don't know if anyone is interested, but I have the original switch and ammeter assembly from my 26 Tudor. The ammeter is broken but the switch with key still works fine. I replaced the whole thing with a new one. I will part with this one if someone needs it.

Does anyone know if Daniel Bennett is still manufacturing the AC Brakes after Larrry Sidmore passed? I had his card from Chickasha 2 years ago. I have tried contacting him by phone and email from the ad i saw on the forum, with no response. Maybe i don't have current contact information. Any help i...

No Longer For Sale.

Car was starting just fine now it won’t. Now I have a new battery, starter, starter button , new cables & a new bendix. It will turn over enough to wind the bendix into the fly wheel and stop. You can crank this car and drive it anywhere but the starter will not work. What is the wrong ???? Thank y...

DHort wrote: ↑
Mon Sep 08, 2025 9:06 pm
Steve Jelf is really missing the party and would like to know if anyone would be able to give him a ride next year.

Dave how far is Steve from us? I'm a couple hours north of you. I'm trying to put together a plan for next year. Car or not, I'd really like to go and see it along with the museum.

Did you have any oil on the very front of your T? In front of the radiator, headlight lens, or leading tread of the front tires? If there is the oil/lube is from the tow vehicle. Oil will blow in just about any direction going down the highway, except forward. It will blow up, down, back, and sidewa...

Mark, That is absolutely fantastic! Really like the fenders and the winch set up. Can't wait to see it in paint. Hats off to you sir!

Allan wrote: ↑
Sun Aug 31, 2025 7:49 am
The Rootlieb hoods are excellent. You spend a lot of time looking along the line of the hood when driving, so having anything else looking as good as a new one takes a deal of skill in panel work.

Allan from down under.

Thanks for the info Allen. Going to check it out.

Here's a picture of the one I made to use on my AC Brakes...

Wow Austin I read your saga, sent a shiver down my spine. So glad you are ok. Hopefully the rear axle is ok. If you end up having to go through it, I have some extra (new) and used parts left from when I rebuilt mine. Hollar if there's something ya need. Heal up buddy

(WTB) Looking for a complete hood for a 1919 Roadster if anyone has one for sale.

Can't recall whose inner seals I recently ordered from, but they have a relief in the edge for the sleeve to set in - no cutting required ! Snyder's current seals show the relief ! If I remember correctly, Chaffin's began modifying those seals years ago. Steve, The seals I used from Snyders was the...

They make a puller for that purpose or you can try to carefully drive it out. I tried to drive it with my drive shaft (which I was replacing) and sheared off some of the rivet heads holding the ball on. I was able to replace them but it made what looked like a simple job much more complicated. Lang...

Make the bracket. I made one like that for my AC Brakes on mine.

To The Top...

Email sent....

Price lowered $8000 or best reasonable offer. I hate to part with it, but really need the garage space.

You mention a 1919 engine, does it have the narrower transmission brake band then. Yes it does, and the early style pedals too. The brake band is still hooked up, but I backed off the adjustment when I added the AC brakes. This way the wheel brakes do the stopping. The trans band will apply should ...

Wish it was for 6V instead of 12V

Wingnut wrote: ↑
Sun Jul 27, 2025 2:24 pm
Is the diff. a 26-7 or earlier

Earlier diff. small drum with AC brakes. Everything is new except the housings.

RajoRacer wrote: ↑
Sun Jul 27, 2025 4:12 pm
Appears to be a small drum w/wires & outside brakes.

Good eye Steve. Yes it is a small drum with AC brakes.

To the top

Hi Grant, Judging from the pics I found of Float-A-Ford's A-C, Stronghold & APCO small drum Auxiliary brakes should fit you may need to remove a little from the underside where it can't be seen for clearance. The A-Cs I believe are available. Craig. The AC Brakes are available from Bennet Machine i...

I bought a flat tube radiator for my 26 from Brassworks this last winter. A little pricey but I got it in about 2 weeks. Looks good, fit good, and cools great.

No Longer For Sale.

JTT3 wrote: ↑
Tue Jul 15, 2025 8:58 pm
Erik I believe it’s on the address section sent to you on the magazine package, if not call the club & they can give it to you. Best John

Erik, John is right. It's on the address label on the MTFCA magazine.

Quit wasting your time measuring any distance. THEY'RE ALL DIFFERENT. Try this: https://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG97.html Steve, would it also work to put a magnetic angle finder on the bottom pulley. Set it at 0 degrees when #1 is at TDC and rotate until the angle finder is at 15 degrees? Just thinkin...

love2T's wrote: ↑
Mon May 26, 2025 9:59 am
BTW...shipping on previous starter was around $25....others may vary a wee bit.

That starter works good. Thanks again, Kent

Got the 'ol girl back together this weekend. Rebuilt the rear axle/driveshaft, added AC brakes, wire wheels and new tires, foot throttle, starter solenoid, adjust bands and oil change. Hoped to have it done by early spring. Health issues took me longer than I anticipated. Ran her on jack stands last...

In the process of putting AC Brakes on my Tudor. I'm leaning towards cable set up instead of rods but weighing the pros and cons.

I confirm what Allan said. I tried welding zinc and it did not go so well. What zinc does well at is forming to a mold, even more so than aluminum. I suppose you could research any safety concerns about re-pouring zinc into a mold that is made from the piece itself. Vernon, Did you try TIG welding ...

I too can see no reason for the car to drive in reverse and not forward. If the gears are in mesh to drive backwards, they are in mesh to do the same forwards. Your search may not yet be over. Allan from down under. Allan, Is it possible that the woodruff key sheared/messed up do to the pinion nut ...

That ring gear is waaay nicer than the one that was in mine.

Bob, Just watched your video. Very informative, and the tips on valve stem grinding, and getting the proper valve lash is fantastic info. Well worth watching, nicely done sir.

Just as an aside, USPS sucks right now, and anyone sending receiving should be patient. Further, I've had first class beat Priority. 2-3 day Priority is no longer 2-3 days, and nobody should believe it is. The only thing it buys you is tracking. I send stuff via Priority every week, and my average ...

Hi all, I'm working on disassembling my 3-speed aluminum Warford to clean it up and to change one of the gears out. The transmission was found in disuse, but inside was well lubricated and in generally good condition. The teeth on one gear were munched pretty bad, but other than that all looks well...

That's awesome!

John, From what I've been told the brass thrust gear seems to be the main part they can't get.

JTT3 wrote: ↑
Sat Apr 26, 2025 10:50 am
Have you tried Chaffins Garage

No I haven't. I did try Snyder's and Lang's and was told 4-6 months as parts are on backorder. That's the reason I thought I'd ask here to see if there are any that might be for sale.

WTB good small drum Ruckstell axle or complete kit to convert rear axle to a Ruckstell (19-25).

Motor kicked back a bit when starting, now won't turn over (sounds like it's trying). Battery, switch, power to starter seems ok. is the bendix jammed into the flywheel? Henry, Check the woodruff key that it hasn't sheared part way. May be the cause for misaligned bolts. had it happen to me. Not re...

Austin, Facebook marketplace has one listed in Stevens Point, WI. for sale.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/it ... tn__=!%3AD

Looks very familiar. The only difference is mine had bronze thrust washers, but everything else was toast too.

speedytinc wrote: ↑
Sat Apr 12, 2025 10:07 pm
I have a 6" square plate welded to a thick wall tube/pipe. Screw a nut on the axle.

I made the jig yesterday, only difference was my bottom plate is 8" square. It worked perfectly! Both axle gears are pressed on and ready to continue the rear axle rebuild.

Got a hub, thanks MTFCA...

A large nut or castle nut backwards is enough. Face flush to the end of the threads. An anti bend tube or pipe is important for the tough fits as to not bend the axle. Thanks John, for the info. I'm going to make a cage/tube set up with a nut tack welded to plate welded/centered on bottom of tube.

Photos to show the process of removing axle gear. First push gear further on with a large socket. IMG_3991.jpeg Take out the half circle keys. IMG_4006.jpeg Then use a smaller socket to push out axle. IMG_4007.jpeg Pieces separated. IMG_4010.jpeg Note that I had to change my press set up for the di...

Lots of very good advice here, the way I did my swap to new axles was of course to verify the sizes of both gear and axle. Then, being the old truck mechanic that I am, I put the axles in the freezer overnight, I pop them in the vise and warm the gear just a bit. working quickly it will tap on with...

Wanted to buy one rear hub. Need a hub to support rear axles to press axle gears on. Keyway need not be perfect. Thanks, Kent

RajoRacer wrote: ↑
Sat Apr 05, 2025 11:25 am
Antique Auto Ranch - Tom Carnegie, I believe. And, he's in Spokane, WA.

Thanks Steve

Frank thank you for the illustration what you pictured is what he purchased i will take a second look at it. The man up in montana is still making the ones he sold at the winter clinics itreplaces the drain plug on the bottom of the engine and can be mounted on both sides of the engine it also has ...

Shrshot wrote: ↑
Fri Apr 04, 2025 9:54 am
Thanks for the suggestions. One of these methods should do the trick, I'll give it a go later today.

Update..... The bushing puller I got from Snyder's works flawlessly. Babbitt bushing out in minutes.

Thanks for the suggestions. One of these methods should do the trick, I'll give it a go later today.

It has been a while. I tried with a driveshaft and broke the rivits off. Then I got a new torque tube and I think I bought a 1/2 steel pipe or rod and punched it out with that. The bushing was either babbit or steel. I should have tried a magnet on it for curiosity sake, but it was mighty hard and ...

That sounds great. Just be careful of those rivits inside the torque tube. I sheared some off one time removing the bushing and had to get another torque tube. Dime a dozen around here. Dave did you use the bushing puller like the one Snyders sells, or is there another method to remove it without d...

If you have a new driveshaft and a new U-joint, just throw the old one in the trash. Who cares if you cannot get the old U-joint off the now broken driveshaft. Just work with the new parts. You should have no problems with the new parts. That's my game plan Dave. I was fortunate enough to locate an...

If you have a new driveshaft and a new U-joint, just throw the old one in the trash. Who cares if you cannot get the old U-joint off the now broken driveshaft. Just work with the new parts. You should have no problems with the new parts. He would like to reuse the torque tube. I was able to locate ...

Can you attach a slide hammer to the other end of the drive shaft? Since you're apparently going to replace the drive shaft, maybe you can attach/weld something to the other end of it, that would allow you to attach a slide hammer. Gave it try today, made a bracket and attached it using the pinion ...

speedytinc wrote: ↑
Sun Mar 30, 2025 11:44 pm
Is the U-joint a new repop?
I have not encountered Your situation with original parts.

I'm not sure but I don't think so. It's junk by my definition anyhow. The side to side endplay is all of 3/32". I can't believe it didn't vibrate like crazy or hit the insides of the torque ball.

I would get a different U-joint. The one you have is compromised if it is that hard to get it off the driveshaft. I did get new driveshaft, front bushing, U-joint, and spool assembly. The spool was broke, along with the pinion gear being chewed up due to the keyway and hyatt bearing sleeve being to...

Check the edges of the bell mouthed ball opening. Sometimes wear will form a lip the constrains the U-Joint knuckles from slipping out the opening. If that joint is stuck on the drive shaft square, lots of penetrating oil, restrain the drive shaft, wiggle and pry out the U-joint. Dan it is stuck on...

Check the edges of the bell mouthed ball opening. Sometimes wear will form a lip the constrains the U-Joint knuckles from slipping out the opening. If that joint is stuck on the drive shaft square, lots of penetrating oil, restrain the drive shaft, wiggle and pry out the U-joint. Dan it is stuck on...

RajoRacer wrote: ↑
Thu Mar 27, 2025 5:38 pm
Those "bolts" would be the u-joint pin plugs.

Yes those are the ones.

In the midst of rebuilding my rear axle. Car is a 26 Tudor, however drive line is ??? Numbers on engine I believe it to be Oct. 1919. Pedals and hogshead are early 20s. Rear axle is small drum early 20s. The dilemma I have is the universal joint is stuck on the driveshaft. I'm replacing everything e...

Pretty much going through the same thing with my rear axle. Whoever went through it prior to my ownership, cut a few corners and it ruined just about everything inside it. The housings and torque tube are about the only thing being reused; the rest will be wall art for the garage.

Karl, PM sent

Steve that block could have been repaired fairly inexpensively. Cast CAN be welded one of two ways. Arc welded with nickel rod, implementing both preheat and post heating. The second way, in the case like your pictured block where rust is more the case. Preheat the cast and gas weld it. Brazing it u...

Got mine today also. Great article and pictures of Austin Farmer and his 22 touring. Kudos to you Austin! After meeting you in February and now reading your article, I can say I'm proud to know you.

Found one, thanks mtfca

Looking for a good carrier if someone has one they'd be willing to part with. I could get by with the half that the ring gear bolts to. For a standard rear axle, 3.63-1. Whoever rebuilt this rear axle before my owning it omitted the thrust disk between the axles. Excessive endplay wore one carrier h...

In viewing the above image, does anyone think the “new, better bearing” is a bit shadetree? The instruction even says it isn’t an ideal fit... Picture an original axle shaft being a light slip fit to loose fit in the inner bearing race of that modern bearing. The axle shaft is now “rolling” on two ...

varmint wrote: ↑
Mon Mar 03, 2025 9:22 pm
No Kent, they are 5/16-18x1/2" slotted round head machine screws.
Since you are a member, if you need 6 for yourself, I can mail them to you.

Thank you Vernon, I sent you an email reply.

Are those screws are 1/4 X 20 thread?

I have a #63 key, & switch assembly. The key is worn on the face side, #63 is readable. The ammeter is broken in the assembly. The key switch and light switch both work. I can't tell if there's a letter "K" on the face due to being worn almost smooth. I don't know if this is any help, you can let me...

Ya know what they say Kurt, "All good things come to those who wait". Way to go on a well-done job! By the way, I received the Warford brochure in the mail Saturday. Thanks again, now enjoy taking your T for drive.

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