MTFCA Forum

LittleTimmy52

My clutch was kinda slipping a bit, so I decided to adjust the clutch fingers, the gap between the collar and the plate is supposed to be 13/16 the gap was much larger, I put the gap to said measurement, I adjust my free neutral after as well. Now I'm slipping and also the arm the clutch bolt is, al...

LittleTimmy52

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑
Mon Oct 13, 2025 7:42 pm
I'd stick with steel on a Ford.

For sure. I thought they were metal until the faithful day I painfully discovered it wasn't. I now make sure any future pins aren't aluminum.

LittleTimmy52

TFan wrote: ↑
Mon Oct 13, 2025 4:09 pm
So was it indeed aluminum? Inquiring minds want to know. Jim

My local hardware store only sold loose pins in aluminum or brass I only noticed it was aluminum when I went back to buy another few. I bought a set of metal pins and have since learned my lesson to pay attention to pin material.

LittleTimmy52

Thanks everyone for the advice, me and my dad got it out with a combination of kerosene flushes compressed air and rags on the fly wheel, in the end it flew out after the air hit it at the right angle.

LittleTimmy52

Mike Silbert wrote: ↑
Mon Oct 13, 2025 8:19 am
Make sure to also check the internal (and maybe external) oil tube(s) for junk.
Clogging that will shorten bearing life.

Mike

How do you get to this inside tube, the outside one I can remove and clean but idk where the internal one is.

LittleTimmy52

Is glyptol similar to liquid electric tape? Or should I just try to track some down? I am aiming to put it back together today or tomorrow because the weather is clear and I keep the car outside and covered for lack of a garage, if I wait I'll get rain and won't be able to work.

LittleTimmy52

Is this the original '17 engine that was "updated" for an electric starter ? From the field coil damage, it's possible "stuff" had previously been tossed around to cause it. That doesn't appear to be a starter field coil as there is no notch for Bendix clearance. Yes my t should not have a starter ...

LittleTimmy52

The chunks that fell off I found in my transmission screen a few weeks ago, the oil was fine when I drained it too. But if I were to put something on it, what should I use as a sealer? And how can I clean off the oil and junk without damage? Electronics parts cleaner?

LittleTimmy52

The magneto on top you can see that the coating is broken off a little. Should I put something on it? Also while I'm here fishing out an aluminum cotter pin from the bottom what else should I do while the hogs head is off?

LittleTimmy52

2 examples of kinda what I'm looking for

LittleTimmy52

I have a foam filter, aside from not looking right, most of the antique air cleaners ive seen go up and towards the exhaust. If anyone is selling one per chance I'd love to buy it.

LittleTimmy52

I taped a grabber to the camera, I found the pin, but because Murphys law the grabber pushed it deeper in and the camera slso is acting up, and I still don't hear anything when I crank it so it's near but not touching the fly wheel. I now suspect it's directly under the flywheel, I tried more kerose...

LittleTimmy52

It's not wedged, I gave it a few hand cranks and it's still in the same spot and I didn't hear any grinding sound

LittleTimmy52

I think I found it wedged between the fly wheel and case near the bottom, my scope ain't the best, I just see some shiny squiggly piece of metal that looks roughly like the bent cotter pin I dropped in, I cant tell exactly where but it is progress.

LittleTimmy52

Additionally what if I just leave it? I mean if there's no big risk of it breaking something I'll just run it and I'll eventually see it in my oil screen. But if itl kill the magnet or mess up the gears or something I won't.

LittleTimmy52

I was adjusting the clutch fingers, I dropped my cotter pin upon removal, it's aluminum so no magnet on a stick can help me. I tried draining the oil and I ran some kerosene through, I thought it would wash it out nad sll it did was clean out some sludge. I have a bore scope but I can't get the came...

LittleTimmy52

A Whiteman wrote: ↑
Mon Sep 29, 2025 3:08 pm
Soaking felt in oil 'loads' them, and they compress and seal better. Don't really know why but it works.
All the best.

what oil would you say I use? like a heavier gear oil or even a grease or should it be lighter?

LittleTimmy52

So I shouldn't shellac the Axel seals and similar? But won't oil and grease make it's way through still? I mean I guess that's what the modern neoprene ones are for.

LittleTimmy52

I hear when installing any felt washers and other pieces you're supposed to put either gasket shellac or some rtv on them before instillation on all sides. my question is though if its an issue or not when it comes to the sides of the washers, for instance the seal on the front bearings, they rotate...

LittleTimmy52

Status update, the bolt slid half way in, my driving got it that far but it hasn't moved past the half way point. I am wondering if I should loosen the u bolts a bit more and it might slide in because those u bolts are tight, if I loosen then it might slide the rest of the way into the cross member....

LittleTimmy52

The top on my 1917 touring lacks all of the straps and bits that hold it up and down, it's currently held with string, to the windshield. I have some images of the deteriorated bits I have, but I'm not sure if it's all of it nor do I know what's what. So if anyone can give me a list of the bits I ne...

LittleTimmy52

A while ago I did my transmission bands, I made 2 mistakes, I didn't put anything on the felt strip as I understand you need to put some shellac or something on them which I didn't know then. The second was I did not use any gasket maker as I thought for some reason it wont leak after it gets tighte...

LittleTimmy52

I have a 1917 touring, but instead of the l2 I have the l4 Kingston carb, I've always noticed that the butterfly valve on the carb doesn't close all the way cause the linkage is a tad short and or the connection on the valve is bent looking. What length of rod should I get to replace it? And is this...

LittleTimmy52

I've tried 3 times to get the tie bolt head to fit in the square hole but I can't, I already put everything together, is there any way I can get the spring to just seat it self ? Like should I just go over some bumps and hope it slides in then I tighten it more on the u bolts?

LittleTimmy52

No one makes a reproduction of the early style steering gears, my pinion is the messed up one, if anyone has one that's not messed up please let me know if like to buy it. It's the pinion with 2 key slots and the long teeth and I believe it was for the 4:1 but I could be wrong, I'll look at the old ...

LittleTimmy52

additionally I used the steel bushings, I hear Brass or Bronze ones were original or better, Ill keep that in mind for the future.I like buying from langs but the only bronze bushings i see are some for some part of a ruckstell, Ill have to see where I can get them from in bronze, maybe the other re...

LittleTimmy52

My rear spring bushings on one side it looks like the spring hole for the bushing is too big as the bushing went in and out with hand force, as in I can pull it out, this would defiantly spin with use, how might I stop it from spinning?

LittleTimmy52

Of its only one felt on the inside which is? The one with the bigger or smaller inner diameter?

LittleTimmy52

Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑
Wed Aug 27, 2025 11:48 am
People sometimes also add a felt between the outside of the cup and the wheel hub. Not saying that's correct, just that some people do it.

Should I add the extra felt outside?

LittleTimmy52

I am not rebuilding my rear axle just yet, but I'm doing my springs, but I figured I'd look at the mess behind the wheels while there off and I found various felts and washers and it looks like there not correct. Both pictures are left to right in order left being closest to the bearing and right be...

LittleTimmy52

I want to put new bushings on the rear shackles and hit the leafs with graphite paint. The way I understand it is I have to take the wheels off then the diff off then the springs out. Is there a way I can take the springs out without removing the wheels? And regardless of how I get it out is there a...

LittleTimmy52

I mean the weaker one sounds notably quieter and grobbles not buzzes like the others, y'all said noise isn't big an indicator but with it seeming off in high gear plus the odd sounding coil(s) shouldn't that mean something?

LittleTimmy52

You can't really judge coil performance by sound. How does the car run? Any misfires? I mean in high gear something feels off, I can't put a finger on it but the t is telling me something is not quite right. Low and reverse are boo noisy to tell anything based off gut feeling and idle is fine. Just...

LittleTimmy52

one of my coils are weak, i know because when starting if the commutator is rotated such that one of the coils is buzzing before i crank it, sometimes i hear a strong buzz other times its weaker, and sometimes its real strong, I don't know which coil(s) are making the weaker noise nor do I have acce...

LittleTimmy52

I see what you mean, might it be better then to make an adapter bracket that basically does a 90 degree turn to put 3 bolt holes on the top but still use the side mount?

LittleTimmy52

This is the square I meant on the side of the car where a horn went at some point. The big question is if the bracket can be rotated 90 degrees or if I can get a different bracket.

LittleTimmy52

So I just got a cheap horn I can afford, it's most likely not the one my car had, I think it had the bras bulb one because the imprint on where it mounts is the same little square I've seen on the mounts for the bulb horn, anyways the 2 rear screws, one on the bracket one on the back and unscrewed a...

LittleTimmy52

So, I'll reiterate: you do not have to bend or "notch" anything. You need to assemble the rod correctly. Cutting original metal to facilitate operation of an incorrectly assembled part is a choice. Assembling it correctly is a choice, too. Dan Treace posted a picture on your thread in January, (htt...

LittleTimmy52

Bump down the left side splash guard/engine pan where it’s far enough down so the spark rod will get a little longer stroke down. Looks like to me the guard/pan took a lick and was pushed upwards sometime in the past. You may not have to cut out a notch to get it to clear but not sure. Im probably ...

LittleTimmy52

Your spark lever/interference problem was correctly diagnosed in January by Dan Treace on one of your other multiple posts. He even took the time to post a picture for you to follow. You should consider fixing it correctly before you start bending metal. Thanks, I'll see if I can't find my post and...

LittleTimmy52

Edit: The splash guard was too bent in the area hitting after looking at a new one, I bent it back and it travels full course now. Thanks everyone and that one guy who said it looked bent. I think I asked before, I not sure but here goes. My spark quadrant has its notches, roughly in the middle it h...

LittleTimmy52

Made this post a while back. Info from a knowledgeable T person who made reproductions of T horns. Re: Magneto Horn Questions.... Post Sat Sep 18, 2021 3:08 pm John Regan gave this explanation of the two versions of the magneto horns: John F. Regan on Thursday, September 10, 2015 - 09:25 am: Mag ho...

LittleTimmy52

The real issue is you need to do some front end work. A series of partial patches isnt the answer. I did, that's how I had the link rod on backwards. My front end came mostly apart, new bushings we installed I painted the springs with graphite, I put new wheel seals on the hubs repacked everything ...

LittleTimmy52

Edit: I doni deed have the early horn, there was only the 2 and 1 post variants, mine was modified to be used in a later setup, literally 2 rubber washers on one post fixed the issue. Idk why it is now a bit quieter but it works and is like everything else on the thing, good enough. Thanks for the r...

LittleTimmy52

Edit: my horn is the correct one, another user of this forum elaborated on why it wasnt working and I fixed it. Since I do infact have the correct horn I no longer need to buy one. I have a magneto horn that has 2 contacts, one insulated from the horns body, the other is not and had continuity with ...

LittleTimmy52

I found my issue, when I had my front end apart I had the drag link rod backwards, the more worn socket on the pit man arm side was on the less worn tie rod, after I flipped the rod around a d put the old cap on (not the spring loaded one) it was fine. So I put the spring cap back onto the pitman ar...

LittleTimmy52

Edit: solved, I had the drag link rod backwards so the worn side was on the tie rod when it was to be the less worn side. After flipping it around and putting the spring cap back on the other side it's fine now. On the end that goes to the ball on the tie rod was there a different shorter spring loa...

LittleTimmy52

Edit: after correcting my error, I don't need another drag link spring cap. I can't seem to find the drag link cap, it's discontinued where ever I see it posted, but I don't mind used. The horn I'm looking for is the side mounted klaxon hand horn the aoogah one with the rod you press down or forward...

LittleTimmy52

the block is literally just about touching the engine, but like one has said, maybe taking that exhaust off will let me pull straight up and towards me to clear the block and someone said something about the bottom ujoint bolts ill loosten them too to see if it helps. but my main issue is being that...

LittleTimmy52

I took everything off to get the hogs head out. The starter, all the nuts and bolts and I disconnected the packnut on the exhaust. The hogs head is up off the gasket it's not stuck down, but I can't lift it off, it hits the engine, there's not enough space to lift it out. Am I doing something wrong?...

LittleTimmy52

I just put a ton of Teflon tape around the threads then a rubber washer on that steering column bolt and it's all fine and dandy. Thanks though

LittleTimmy52

I don't know if it helps or not but here's the picture of the back side of the horn it has one insulated and one uninsulated post

LittleTimmy52

With a little bit of multimeter probing it seems to me that the body of the magneto horn is shorting out through the one bolt on the steering column which is grounded and the body is indeed supposed to be isolated because one of the posts is directly on the body with continuity. Is there some sort o...

LittleTimmy52

I switched the wires and now it will run off magneto but the horn won't stop sounding

LittleTimmy52

I have a hypothesis I think the Horn's body is grinding through the steering column Bolt because one of the bolts is off the steering column the other one just goes through the wood and isn't touching anything. Would grounding the outside of the horn kill the magneto power? Also how would I prevent ...

LittleTimmy52

Also as much as I like to remove the horn to test, my firewall is wood and the square slot for one of the bolts is rotted a bit and I don't want to chance rounding that square more than it is

LittleTimmy52

Since it's AC does it matter which wire goes to what post? Would that be it?

LittleTimmy52

last edit i think: Someone brought to my attention this being the wrong horn, I kinda thought so as well, I am not going to buy another horn any time soon, but what horn would be correct? Edit again: Teflon on the bolt and a rubber washer before the nut fixed my issues. Edit: how do I isolate the br...

LittleTimmy52

It's a shame no modern manufacture makes new cotton linings, nos ones would get all used up one day. But anyways I need preferably a set for a 17, I know the 26-27 were different but idk how they differ year by year if at all prior to 26. Thanks. Edit: just went to s dentist, it looking pricy, I can...

LittleTimmy52

Thanks everyone, those are all valid points, I'm going to see if I can track down a single nos band. Would be nice if someone manufactured new cotton linings because nos would run out one day. Anyways is anyone per chance selling a band?

LittleTimmy52

Steve Jelf wrote: ↑
Mon May 19, 2025 3:19 pm
They're not all the same. What year?

1917, I'm no expert hence my asking but cotton web looks just like Scandinavia cotton linings and are a good deal cheaper.

LittleTimmy52

The cotton linings look a lot like cotton web you can buy by the roll off Amazon, can I use cotton web that's the right width and length of course? (I need to just replace my low band)

LittleTimmy52

I am looking for a wishbone for the front axle, the one that has a stud to go through the perch with s good ball and threads since mine has bad threads and a bad ball.

Thanks.

LittleTimmy52

Can I use new bolts on the early one? I plan on sourcing am early one, but I need a plan b. When you say "new bolts" I don't know what you mean other than totally modern U bolts which first won't fit right and second look horrible. Try Chaffins or Langs they often have good used early Engine Mounts...

LittleTimmy52

This I e didn't send

LittleTimmy52

I don't know if the pictures are good, but as yok can see the ball is bad, I tried to get one of the threads its bad on the wishbone on a side the the lower half with the tape o font know how to adjust because I e is loose but if I tighten it it is shorter than the other. The u bolt may be stripped ...

LittleTimmy52

Can I use new bolts on the early one? I plan on sourcing am early one, but I need a plan b.

LittleTimmy52

The ball is quite malformed, I wanted to remove it to see what k can do, I think there's a weld on replacement, also it should be the earlier style (I think) but I got the more common later style with the lower supports, actually one is loose in the bracket, if I tighten it up it becomes a tad short...

LittleTimmy52

I have a 17, it is to my knowledge that the front should have 6-7 leafs and the later models have 8-9, mine has 9, should I just take the top 2 off to make it 7? Or do I have to get a new spring which in that case I'm leaving it. Additionally the u bolt looking things that hold the spring up on the ...

LittleTimmy52

Never assume that whatever is on a T when you get it is "correct". In that last picture the absence of a radiator apron suggests 1923 or earlier. The spring clip is 1919 or earlier. I have a 17 but the front axle looks like that of the later ones the 19 and later I think, I just want to know if thi...

LittleTimmy52

Here are the images. I'm thinking later model front. But what do y'all think?

LittleTimmy52

I recently bought the axle book before I bought any of the parts and I'm about to buy the parts but something is throwing me off I think I might have a later production front axle than what I should because according to this book the wishbone should only have the two struts my Model T has four like ...

LittleTimmy52

I want to do a front axle rebuild, what all do I need parts wise to do the job? I plan to take apart the front axle and spring , along with the front wheels. I know I need graphite and bushings, but I do not know what else I need. are there any remove and replace items like some washer or cover or ...

LittleTimmy52

Quick question, my shackles they look like 1923 based off new ones from langs, but I got a 1917, do the style shackles matter? Or is it just a shape?

Also I hope shackles good because that price tag is steep.

LittleTimmy52

I want to do a front axle rebuild, what all do I need parts wise to do the job? I plan to take apart the front axle and spring , along with the front wheels. I know I need graphite and bushings, but I do not know what else I need. are there any remove and replace items like some washer or cover or s...

LittleTimmy52

Thanks everyone for the answers, it will help me out, I'll probably be doing some eBay shopping here and there till I get the "collection" if you will. Now I know what all I need. Thanks.

LittleTimmy52

Noted, thanks. I now need to keep a rope and a wrench that can fit the plugs on me. I do not think im going to break down too soon though, since im still fixing things and it gets better by the day.

LittleTimmy52

A model T clutch does not completely disengage the transmission like a modern manual transmission. Its a planetary system, "neutral" is a lack of hold feature in such a system. The output & brake drum is still spinning on the center shaft also engaging & spinning the triple gears. Thats 6 bushings ...

LittleTimmy52

I wish you lived near me. We could work on how to drive, and how to not feel like you're driving on egg shells. Let me narrow down the scope of this discussion. Are you a good Model T driver? By that I mean, do you know what to do enough to feel confident? Let's go back to the start of knowing how ...

LittleTimmy52

It's not that I'm afraid, I want to get the demons out before going on the road so I don't need to walk home, get my dad and his truck and toe it home multiple times. Please be aware, towing a Model T, even a short distance, can ruin the transmission. If you absolutely have to tow it, do it very sl...

LittleTimmy52

The weather is suckey today and it will be tomorrow, but hopefully Wednesday is clear, if it is I'll do a longer road test, and by that I mean I'm taking it the 1.6 mile trip to school, if it can do that, think my faith in it will be restored at least partially.

LittleTimmy52

Can just leaving it on idle suffice as a road test, A I don't want it to throw a tantrum and be towed home from far and B if anything goes wrong can fix it there and then all from the comfort and safety of my backyard. If idleing can suffice, that would be better, I want to catch things now and not...

LittleTimmy52

Can just leaving it on idle suffice as a road test, A I don't want it to throw a tantrum and be towed home from far and B if anything goes wrong can fix it there and then all from the comfort and safety of my backyard. If idleing can suffice, that would be better, I want to catch things now and not ...

LittleTimmy52

John Codman wrote: ↑
Mon Feb 24, 2025 1:08 pm
I'm in Naples which makes it too far to travel for a day trip for me. I'm sure that you can find someone to help. Why don't you send an email to the two T clubs in Florida and see if they have any members near to you?

That is actually a decent idea, I'll reach out to them. Thank you.

LittleTimmy52

If you have the Model T Encyclopedia by Bruce McCalley you can find lots of tool information. The few tools that came with every car were in a cloth tool roll. Ford was not in the habit of selling tool boxes, an aftermarket accessory made and sold by several companies. I might pay as much as $50 fo...

LittleTimmy52

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑
Mon Feb 24, 2025 12:52 pm
It's best to drive any car at least ten miles any time you start it, especially in cold weather. More is better.

well Im down here in florida where its real hot and humid all the time. But 10 miles give or take is what they should handle? or should I go less due to heat and humidity?

LittleTimmy52

I think previously 2 people gave me their number, foolish me never saved it. As most people said, and I agree, aide of someone with a few iq points above mine will be beneficial. Is anyone in the general Kissimmee area of central Florida near Saint Cloud? It would be nice if someone could stop by an...

LittleTimmy52

I have some good news, A the forum is now working for me and I can reply again. B i insulated the line where it goes near the exhaust, apart from a freeze plug falling out it is working fine. Then again, I did not go far. As much as it would be better to reshape the line, I dont want to crack this o...

LittleTimmy52

What tools came with the model t in 1917? did they have any special tool box or something they came in? Where might I find the tools and whatever they were supposed to come in? Also, I have the touring, ive seen some have some basket looking thing on the rear of one of the side steps, others ive see...

LittleTimmy52

Might I add that it also only leaks when the sediment bowl valve is open when I shut the fuel off it quits leaking mind you there's still fuel because if I open the sediment drain valve fuel comes out of the bottom. So it seems it only leaks under a light pressure.

LittleTimmy52

I replaced my sediment Bowl and I reused the old petcock after clearing the blockage on the top of it and the petcock is leaking not from the threads but the actual valve part, the spinning part. how might I be able to fix this? I did though disassemble the petcock valve to clean and uninstall and r...

LittleTimmy52

I have made a discovery. As most know, exhaust is hot and copper is good at conducting heat. i looked and the fuel line at one point is only an inch away from the exhaust, so problem spotted. Well a problem, once I get my new belt and I make a heat sheild and insulate the tube as well, I might find ...

LittleTimmy52

There wasn't steam out the overflow no boiling, as for the post, I can't check at the moment, but I'll surely check it. It only happened hot my issues, the suggestions on it being fuel related seem more feasible. But I'm waiting on parts now for some other things, so only once I actually run it agai...

LittleTimmy52

You're not overheating if you're not blowing steam out of the radiator overflow tube. When you say it shuts off, do you mean it quits and won't restart until it cools off, or that it momentarily cuts out, then picks up again? I didn't try to restart out of fear, so I wouldn't be able to clarify, bu...

LittleTimmy52

Thanks for the replys, a month ago I cleaned out the switch box and coil box, the contacts i meant, I triple made sure everything was right and in good contact, so in terms of the switch and coils it is fine. I don't know if that's how it works, but, I'm thinking, stupid me = too hot = magneto stop ...

LittleTimmy52

To clarify by turning off it's as if the magneto just stopped generating electricity like if I switched it to off, I did not try running off the battery alone nor did I try switching to battery when the engine cut off and it was still rolling.

LittleTimmy52

I drove a bit longer than usual but I was just 4 miles to 4 MI back. The engine just turned off the way there and it did it twice more the way back. I was running on high gear most of the time between 25 and 30 mph. I think it was overheating. Is 50/50 coolant bad? Is it something with the air fuel ...

LittleTimmy52

I don't know the proper term for this piece but it's that curved metal piece on the brake lever that holds the clutch in neutral when pulled back to 90° or fully back. Mine appears to be worn out. Is it supposed to be like that? It looks like the bolt has eaten into it is there a way I can fix this ...

LittleTimmy52

Open the hood and lean over a bit so you can see if the timer advance rod is moving freely. If it’s hanging up somewhere you should be able to see it as you lean over, move the spark lever and watch it closely. If it looks like it’s hitting or dragging on something remove the rod from the top of th...

LittleTimmy52

I know precisely why now it only goes to this big notch before springing back the part that physically moves is hitting the metal sheet now I don't know if it's supposed to be like that or not but if somebody wants to look at the video and look at this attached image and tell me I would greatly appr...

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