MTFCA Forum

Kerry

If you need one now. Try Eckler's automotive in Titusville in Florida, they still have 3 new ones listed on Ebay

Kerry

Only place I've seen one is list as discontinued on Mac's web site.

Kerry

Alan.
Answer to your question is yes, according to parts books, that screw in type 1908 to about the end of 1913. It also looks like the same as N,R & S gasoline tank stop cock.

Kerry

Rather than trash an axle that could still have some life left, what about an over size bearing sleeve, that would be much cheaper I'm sure.

Kerry

Gene
I'm sure no one would try to fit a stem after both beads are on the rim, plenty of youtube clips on how to do it right, even one from Coker tires.

Kerry

Adam, your instructions would be the opposite to what I was taught on fitting a tube and tire, always finish at the valve stem so not to cut it with the tire bead when fitting.

Kerry

I have 5 T's and all run coils, one has 4 plastic ones in it for several years, a stock 27 and a long distance tourer. The only issue I've had with one coil is it broke one side of the points, an easy fix.

Kerry

Hey Cam.
1000rpm crank = 1500rpm generator.

Kerry

I forgot to mention that spiral bevel gears came in a matching sets, as ring and pinion, to try and miss match usually ended up with a diff that screamed like a fire truck siren.

Kerry

Top one looks to be Model A and second one 30's V8.

Kerry

I worked part time at a wrecking yard as a kid. Would someone with a 1912 car fit a 1915 diff in 1925? of course he would. by 1925 the 12 and 15 are no more than just junk cars, one would fit anything just to keep the wheels turning

Kerry

14 has a flat lid top and at the clip line.

Kerry

Dick.
That coil box is not 15/16 or 14, I'm seeing more like a 17/25 box.

Kerry

Why twice as many centre caps? Because many a engine rebuild has ended up with a front bearing cap being used in the centre, therefore a surplus amount of centre caps turn up in collections. Which isn't a problem if the babbitting is done the full length to carry the crank jounal and match the block...

Kerry

Can't help with what they started out as but checking a couple of dozen, I come up with the thickest at 575 and thin 535.

Kerry

Well to start a pole on that. I don't look at the classifieds to often.

Kerry

Sure that works when the engine is out of the car, a bit hard to use head bolt dowls when trying to get the head under the fire wall as well, if you have help to hold the head up off the gasket and then screw in a couple of dowl bolts then all will work.

Kerry

Using the ball cap to maintain pressure on the clutch spring is the craziest thing I've ever seen

will it work? not for long!

Kerry

Norm.
You got that around the wrong way

Cast iron head is re-torqued hot.
And aluminium is re-torqued stone cold.

Kerry

Do you have the front uni joint and adapter housing? I believe they are hard to find for the cast iron warfords if missing.

Kerry

John, I don't know the origin of the hubs, a period accessory? they are made from aluminiun. This photo was taken in 1963 and they are on the car then. The T has some interesting history, staged for a photo's on the Geelong Ford production line for the 50th and 75th. I'm aiming for Geelongs Ford 100...

Kerry

My 26 still has a few of the Delux fittings, tail light, mirror and rubber side steps. Still unrestored , 74,000 miles and original paper work from dealership about 50miles from the Australian Ford factory in Geelong.

Kerry

A bit hard to tell with what photo's we have to work with but I'm going to say at some time in it's life it's scored a 26/7 engine, besides the fan water outlet mount, it looks like top bolts on the hogs head as well.

Kerry

I'm not saying it's not a harley, I don't know enough about them, just it's not the same as Rich's photo. The inlet manifold is on the barrels lower than the harley and the push rod covers are evenly spaced apart unlike the ones in the Harley photo.

Kerry

Yep, as I was told once, T's are clock work, you need to wind them up.

Kerry

Looks like the hard lining that is used in the turning brakes in bull dozers.

Kerry

I can help on the first question. Ford literature shows no Runabout for 1909/10 but had the mother inlaw seat on the fully equipped Roadster in 1909/10. 1911 Runabout had a fuel tank on the back and in 1912 called the Torpedo Runabout with the tank. Roadsters still with or with out the mother inlaw ...

Kerry

David, I think that everyone does agree with you

one just has to come agross an unmolested pre great war T to find babbitt ones.

Kerry

The thrusts, part # 2528 started out as babbitt, by 1916 Ford lists for a short time as fibre then a change to being called composition, with the final description being metal until the end of production. Canadian diffs had bronze and still listed until 1917, I've pulled down 16'ns that could be eit...

Kerry

It looks T to me, just a spring kit of some sort fitted.

Kerry

The trouble with changing to a 5w oil is at the expense of the longevity of the engine, it's far to light for the clearances of T bearings with mild to warm and hot weather.

Kerry

Bill, I think you covered it in your description, a bigend rattle is the connecting rod on the crankshaft, with the wear in the cam bearing you get a rattle that will drive you nuts. Like you say, an advance rattle. The later cams are easy to make a good fit bearing if a new one still gives to much ...

Kerry

Back to your question, yes you need to get a new bearing, with that much float in the cam it will sound like the engine has done a bigend.

Kerry

I second what Adam has posted.

Kerry

Haven't seen the lifters that had a higher stem base for several years, the ones on the market today are machined with a nice taper, just a quick touch with a drill bit or stone to chamfer the block guide holes to just make sure on clearance on the high lift cams is all that is needed.

Kerry

I've never heard of any issues in using adjustables on the 280, as George states I've ran the same for several years. And as for the bearing, yes new ones sometimes need turning in the lathe for a final fit.

Kerry

Good one Cam

black and white as well?

Kerry

Kerry

The first of the starter T's at our end of the world had a bolt on belt driven generator.

Kerry

Several years, it's a " Heinz 57 Variety"

Kerry

Just be careful on Mac's piston specs, they are for a cast iron piston although a foot note states that the split skirt faces away from the cam, that is a aluminium piston, to set the ring gap on a aluminium piston at what's listed you will have an engine that will lock up.

Kerry

I have 2 T's with Rucksells, I drive the diff changes the same way I drive the Eaton 2 speeds in trucks, just with throttle control, no touching of the clutch. Works for me, may differ for others.

Kerry

Jeff.
I hope your use of the word lead was a slip of the finger on the key board

that stuff is a no-no for T babbitt.
And yes, agreed, it's a time consuming job for sure.

Kerry

If you had access to a lathe, just a few minutes work each piston to turn the oil ring groove deeper. Hope the new pistons work out for the job.

Kerry

Yes Bill, it is a problem, many a bearing end up as pieces.
I cut the block deeper so the oil slots are still babbitt.

Kerry

One of the stop light kits require the plate to be turned upside down.

Kerry

It will be one of those pull it apart to find out, can't see it my self that the uni could break but if the ball cap was loose then the drive plate on the transmission could have bent, did oil run out of it on your drive?

Kerry

I opologize for any confusion, my bad habit of always calling them cut outs, dug them out of the junk tin and as can be seen they are not just the diode cut out.

Kerry

2 of my T's have generators and the only trouble I've had with them is the doide cut outs. one cost me a generator, a complete burn out and the other I caught in time when I saw the amp gauge go 100% neg. I'm sticking with the original type.

Kerry

I'm with you on that Les.
Some claim to never have had a failure at a set clearance but in reality one would not really know until it's pulled down again, a locked bush on a pin can spin in the gear for many years without any telltale signs.

Kerry

No, if you still have a std bore I doubt a .010" re-bore would clean it up, I've even had to take std's up to .060" at times to get a good finish.

Kerry

Never come agross anything saying other wise, all should be 3/16" to 1/4"

Kerry

A neat job done on that block, even the early oil pipe, if it had push rod guides fitted you would have to look twice, but that engine # pad is bad considering the rest. Looks like it may have been a freeze plug block.
Darel, I am seeing a 3 dip pan, not a 4.

Kerry

Not that I care one way or the other but there must be some steel flywheels kicking around, mention of them being supplied by Snyders on the forum back in 2006. 7 pounds lighter and part #T-3269-LW

Kerry

A re-build that came through my shop some time ago had a simple solution to fix the triple gear loose pin.
They had been replaced with piston wrist pins, what out of I don't know but no reason to mess with it so it went back together with.

Kerry

My question is answered by my own research

Suppliers have 2 sizes, Langs list .001" over Ford drawings and Snyders list as .003" over drawing size.

Kerry

Who's making or supplying over size pins?

Kerry

Ted is saying to use the 1/8" aluminium piston rings on those cast iron pistons.

Kerry

Don't mess with the rod holes leave them as is. the caps can be drilled a little larger from the out side and chamfer the babbitt with a much larger drill bitt by hand.

Kerry

Mark, I have 5 T's and all are fun to drive as long as you remember you have poor brakes! Tourings, pick-up and the latest a Coupe. Besides the lack of space in the coupe for more than one passenger, they are hot inside on a nice day, a great winter T. As for the term Doctor's Coupe, calling it that...

Kerry

Try Model T Haven, one on his web site for 43K

Kerry

Agree with Scott on that, fine for checking the running amps but would fry it for cranking amps.

Kerry

Had one similar some years back, easy to use, just put the back of it along any live wire or + battery cable and will read the amps in the circuit.

Kerry

A lot of variables on why a head gasket can blow, 7 are a lot in one tour! our nationals can have up to 140 T's for a weeks worth of driving and no head gasket problems. Re-torque on the type of head, cast or aluminium, how it was done, surface condition etc, are usualy the things that contribute to...

Kerry

I think most head dates had month and day and a mold #, allthough I have seen before some heads with complete casting dates but can't remember if low or high ones.

Kerry

And what are we going to do when the old fart falls of the perch

we will need to teach a younger fella the tricks and still do it for the same price

Sounds great Cam.

Kerry

Brad, as for your post in saying the engine, there is no difference from LHD/RHD. just the transmission hogs head and the throttle shaft in the carby.

Kerry

Has the set up been fitted with a earth wire, dissy body to engine? if not do it

Kerry

Kerry

If your only doing 1 engine then buy the babbitt from the T vendors. I don't know about your area but down my way if you want babbitt from a metal merchant supplier you can only buy in bulk, which is fine if doing several engines.

Kerry

Another true Adrian. Youtube have some very interesting clips on small scale running engines but I can't find anything that seems to be running with a carb as small as a thumb nail which apears to be the size of that T carb. But of course we will never really know if it's a real runner unless someon...

Kerry

True Eric, but a 30 to 40 cc 4 stroke model plane engines usually has a carby some 30 to 40% of the engine size, way off scale to look proportional, just can't make them smaller to be functional. The 2 stroke ones are the same, large fuel supply and way off scale.

Kerry

Been kicking around on the net for some time but I take it with a grain of salt as a running model under it's own power. I just can't see microscopic carby jets being able to atomize gas to be a runner! maybe an electric motor in the box on the back?

Kerry

I wish that was the specs on the new scats Mike, the last 2 new scats I fitted and with shell bearing rods came in at 1.248" and giving the .002" in oil clearance. The earlier scats I have fitted came in at 1.250" that wasn't a problem as I do my own rod pouring and machining and at .0015" clearance...

Kerry

Can't help you on the rods but, Ford cranks are 1.248" and now the scats are the same. .002" oil clearance.

Kerry

I wouldn't blame the coil ring, more so the oil pan. Looks like at some time in it's life the T has had a front end nudge pushing the ball mount back some. Mount the pan back into your T frame and see how it all lines up.

Kerry

Yep, a good tight fit, tried another in several covers on the shelf 1916 and up, same thing, I've never had one from the vendors be any more than a fall out fit and need to be glued in and I've fitted many on every rebuild over the years.

Kerry

Kerry

For years I fitted the seals supplied by the vendors and we all know that the have too smaller OD and need to be glued/sealed in place.
So the million dollar question is, why have we been putting up with them when I simply walked into our local bearing store and bought the right size to fit in??

Kerry

Besides the triple gear bush locking up which is easy to check like Wayne has posted, the drive plate bush can also sieze, that will give the trans top gear and the drums not able to get low or reverse. Another one is if the last time it was in pieces and rebuilt with a mix of year parts, the first ...

Kerry

So what's an old fella to believe?

Kerry

Sounds like you were lucky that your engine didn't eat the magneto

Kerry

No angle built into the axle, can go in both ways as long as you have the stub axles fitted on the right sides, the perche's have the angle, there is a left and a right in the perch.

Kerry

Now I'm sure everything would have been sweet when Dean rebuilt the engine so I'm putting my money on a sneaky little knock on the scat hitting the pan horse shoe or one of the bolts holding it.

Kerry

More than likely not a loose pin, 2 other problems cause the pin to score the bore, first the babbitt is worn out on the sides of the big end and second the pin bush is not fitted correctly in the piston to stop the rod from floating across to the bore.

Kerry

3rd choice is all 6 volt system and a 8 volt battery, I have 4 T's with 8 volt batteries, 3 with gen's and 1 with mag charger. also another T that's 12 volt with a mag charger. All have been faultless. no broken bendix's or even a blown globe.

Kerry

Your cam gears are up the creek, they are out of alignment, either the nut has wound of some or the bearing for the cam end play is flogged out. the clicking is the gear teeth clearance, lash, fighting the valve springs.

Kerry

Robert,
I have learnt from this thread and from some research parts books etc, yes it did, the small inner muffler tube was deleted in 1921 and the longer engine pipe replaced it.

Kerry

Found it in the parts books, the longer pipe in 1921, now I have to say I would and don't have any faith in clamping the muffler on a short engine pipe and relying on just a rear piece of tin bracket to hold it all up. Reason for saying that is I had such a configuration on one of my T's and on a ru...

Kerry

I don't know why some think the engine pipe went all the way through the muffler?? from the earliest books on, it states to clean the muffler it can be removed without undoing the long pipe img448.jpg (engine pipe) slide back and drop after undoing the mount bolts, you have a few inches before the m...

Kerry

Never come across that Jeff, only in a few inches and not clamped, it needs to be able to move freely with chassis twist, that was Fords original intent.

Kerry

Well it depends on what you call all machining, even with ajustable push rods fitted, it can take 4+ hrs to set the valve lash, the valves need to be shortened as well. Sometimes it can take a day just to get a happy magneto, checking for cracks, charging and clearance, another day in trying to get ...

Kerry

The screen kits come with a magnet.

Kerry

The longer early bearings can be turned down shorter for the later front bearing, done it many times to have a good fit for shaft end play.

Kerry

One and a half thou. .0015"

Kerry

May be the cost cutting one built for a few years 1919/20 from cold rolled steel.

Kerry

Neil,
That's an awful big hole for the #3 spark plug, as for saving the rods, only good if you have the matching size crank, if still STD not easy to find a good one these days.

Kerry

Sorry, as Gene has posted.

Kerry

Like Bruce has posted, hard enough just to do #4 rod let alone take 2 fly wheel bolts out to drop the cap, and re-wire etc,
maybe some has done it, would sure like to know if possible.

Kerry

What's also a problem on a standard T crank shaft is lugging the engine due to lack of power

I've fitted HC heads to 4 of my 5 T's and many rebuilds for others, never broke a crank shaft as yet, (touch wood)
Lots of other causes of crank failure before I would blame a bit of extra compression.

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