MTFCA Forum

Kerry

Ooops!! someone needs to pull the pistons on that block, split skirt is facing the thrust side of the bore and needs oil holes drilled for the wrist pins.

Kerry

Pre electric T, 17 or 18, front radius rod is above the axle.

Kerry

Well Allan, it can be a small world! I have a painting of Bob's T that was done for David and gifted to Bob many years ago.

Kerry

Hi Anton, are you able to post the casting date on the engine block? this will help in my research in establishing the timeline on when Ts started to be imported back to Australia after the embargo was lifted. Thanks.

Kerry

Interesting that it is 1922, Canadian parts books list the marine engine as 1924 to 27.

Kerry

Mostly the same, can use the low radiator top spout on the high radiator but will fit better with a slightly longer hose, the low radiator uses the shorter spout 4003, the high radiator spout 4003B is longer and not a good fit to use on a low radiator.

Kerry

It might be the angle of the photo or snow on the core, but that radiator looks to have the cooling fins removed.

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Kerry

Are your rims in poor condition that you need them?

Kerry

Usually see the running board front support rod on a photo of that angle, maybe missing.

Kerry

If the encyclopedia is correct, then the change started in 5/14/1915 so the 16 model for sure.

Kerry

The 7.5 advance timing gear is only a half a tooth, going one tooth is too much and will not run correctly.

Kerry

The first of the 1919 had the cut out mounted on the firewall, could be the same or a replacement?

Kerry

Not seeing anything to set the cutting shaft to the cam shaft for a centre line and the gear lash, also those old tooling sets are made to only cut to a standard size, back in the day if the shaft was worn and needed grinding, you just bought a new crankshaft.

Kerry

Engines that have come to me for re-builds that have had the wrist pin bolts wired in, I find the wire on the magnets or in the pan.

Kerry

This one I use in my Ts, same size as a T battery box and original 6 volt battery size.

Kerry

Interesting that most assume that Joe has a problem with his starting, the question was would an 8v cause any damage, answer is no, go for it, run 3 of my Ts on 8v, never even blown a globe in 17+ years

Kerry

One country that was part of the British empire, supplied from Ford of Canada and rated as the pre-T biggest customer and then one of the largest in the T era which seems to have faded to oblivion, Was, Ford Automobiles of India, have enough survived and interest to have a club?

Kerry

The spiral grooving on horizontal bushing has a simple science, no matter what position it stops at, it will have oil laying in some part of the groove for a cold start.

Kerry

Tony Wiltshire. (Deceased)

Kerry

I made use of a T wheel hub flange plate as a face plate for the lathe years ago, still using it, centre the ball cap at the machined surface near the ball cap flange.

Kerry

To check the trans correctly it needs to be dismantled. Drums crack in the webbing all the bush clearances etc, the magneto field coil needs replacing, the usual way is to use a later set up with a ring gear flywheel so a starter hogs head could be fitted now or later. your head gasket is leaking. I...

Kerry

It is a shame that they are not made any more, I use a 6v bittner charger and a E timer so I have good lights on a 16 for many years, a much better set up than the diode and globe on the mag.

Kerry

Plenty of USA Ts in Australia, same tyre size as our Canadian Ts.

Kerry

The Canadian diff crown wheel and pinion cannot be mixed with the USA ones. Same number of teeth but a difference in teeth pitch.

Kerry

Was Canada still making RHD 26 Ts for home use?

Kerry

I have never come across and difference in the running gear. Marked made in Canada or USA, it all still swaps.

Kerry

Do you still have Bob Trevan's contact details?, he seems to know something about your topic.

Kerry

Accessory transmission uni.

Kerry

To be picky, Ford called and marketed them as Roadsters with the mother in-law seat and the Runabout had the fuel tank on the rear.

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Kerry

As far as thickness go's the 10 would be plenty but the downside would be in cutting the oil channel for lubrication and more often than not, the crank is not in the centre line of the saddles for the crank to cam distance, you need extra thick babbitt to allow for that or you will hit the block try...

Kerry

I did find the missing months, figures compiled by Bruce McCalley back in 2007, Calander years, In 1908, 27, 1909, 532 and in 1910, 8.

Kerry

Numbers seem to be all over the place but even working with Calander of fiscal years, the only mention of 2 being built was in the 1908 Calander year, although Nov and Dec figures seem to be missing. Screenshot (399).png Screenshot (400).png Screenshot (401).png

Kerry

Price seems right for both years but the Encyclopaedia lists 377 built for 1910 and 236 for 09

Kerry

$16.50 for a battery was cheap, when Ford went to electric option, they cost $25.00.

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Kerry

I do mainly Canadian blocks and they do vary in the spot of the oil holes, the front and rear are close to the bolt holes but the centre one could be up the front or the rear or even the two, I checked a 26 USA block that I have on the bench now and it has the centre one towards the front, drill a 1...

Kerry

By no means classified a little behind in design back in the day, published in 1918, all about ignition systems of all that was manufactured, the Ford system was quoted as a very ingenious application, its design eliminated the driving connections that get out of order and cause trouble. The magnet ...

Kerry

Slotted holes would make it interesting, it's hard enough to get a zero run out on the drive plate to drum for the normal parts.

Kerry

I think you are right in 26/7 but not a lathe modification, but the bolt holes made over size to make it fit a narrow drum.

Kerry

You would be right in your comfort zone Allan, shim adjustment on the bigends on the side of the road. I've never been real keen on the chev rod set up.

Kerry

According to the Story of the Ford in Canada publication, circa 1912, a picture of the Radiator department where the radiators are made, employed 200 people. For what I have seen in Australia with the numbers on the radiators had no match to the engine or body plate numbers, but those numbers did ma...

Kerry

Neal, the only way I would use that ground cam would be with one of the new designed brass thrust kit.

Kerry

Unfortunately, thoughts and opinions could be costly, Ford states which way a rod is to be fitted just like which way a head gasket is to be fitted, imagine how thick a service book would be if going to explain all the science of the engineering, but Ford just kept it simple to have a correct assemb...

Kerry

Might be a challenge to work out what head you are working with.

Kerry

It could be possible that the one with the dot is a later one and needs to match a ring gear with a dot as well.

Kerry

Regardless on which way the rod is fitted, it is 100% reliant on the bolt, it just so happens it is more likely to fail when fitted away from the cam side. Ford even has in the service bulletin that if the bolt tension is compromised, the claw clamp will fail.

Kerry

The service book page 98 has after marking a rod, the markings on the rod and cap should be on the same side as the rod clamp screw. Then in the service bulletin volume 1 page 71, Assembling pistons and rods in the motor, the number markings face the camshaft side of the motor.

Kerry

To put it simple, rods fitted with the bolt facing the cam will have the pressure points of thrust pushing on the strongest part of the rod clamp. Screenshot (306).png A rod fitted in reverse will have the pressure points pushing on the weakest point of the claw, the power stroke thrusts the piston ...

Kerry

As a Model T engine builder, I can tell you it is a big problem, a lot of strain on the rod clamp when fitted backwards and if you are lucky when they snap it is only the head of the bolt, the last one I fixed was unlucky and snapped the rod off and went through the block.

Kerry

that could be so Jerry, but I was educated with the kings English, and the use of a comma is to separate independent clauses.

Kerry

How can one make out that the poster is saying that he's doing 30mph in low? he posts that 30mph or the high end of first it has some vibration.

Kerry

1928 parts books, USA piston sizes from Ford, .0025, 005, 010, 025, 03125 and 033
Canada Ford sizes .001, 002, 003, 004, 005, 010, 015, 020, 025, 030, 033, 035, 040 and 045.

Kerry

Cherry bomb, in Australia we called them Hotdog mufflers.

Kerry

Something that will need to be fixed before any driving, the bridge washer is meant to be fitted inside the tire on the tube.

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Kerry

Very early 15 with the 4 rivets on top, changed to 3 rivets for the later 15 and 16.

Kerry

Can't be a 19 block if you are looking for excess fumes out of the throttle shaft passage between the cylinders.

Kerry

Some seem to have year as well.

Kerry

One would think it would be common, Ford still making engines until 1941 and would surely be making parts well after, especially gaskets.

Kerry

I've re-built many T engine/transmissions and dismantled many for parts, I have never come across a triple gear that had broken a piece off.

Kerry

Just the block was trashed, the re-build was a time bomb waiting to happen, done by someone who had no idea, the babbitt in it was lead as well.

Kerry

Kerry

Hi Alan, PM sent. Regards Kerry.

Kerry

I have boxes of replacement spacers for filed T caps dating back to 1910, they are .070" thick. The early Dodge supplied rods had very thick babbitt so could be filed a lot, as Ford rods got better in being machined, by the 20's they had very thin babbitt in them, if the shim of today's suppliers do...

Kerry

My New Zealand parts book lists 2 for the TT 3539 RC 1918-21 then the new one to be able to mount the generator on the block, RHD, 3539 RE 1921-27

Kerry

If you are contemplating having a go yourself you can buy enough babbitt from the T vendors that is based on the same formula that Ford used, 86% tin 7% copper and 7% antimony. The T rods that you come across that have no shims could well be still original as Ford did not use them, you need to check...

Kerry

Frank, No the end of Brass era was 1916 and even when the black radiator Model was released, according to a period Ford times, Ford still was supplying brass model T chassis for overseas service, I suppose that was dispersing of old Model parts.

Kerry

Allan, new pins are .004" larger at the fly wheel end to compensate

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Kerry

It's not rocket science to make your own mandrel to check them, they can even be realigned in a good 6" bench vice.

Kerry

No set rule on what thickness shim to have in a rebuilt rod (Ford never used rod shims in new engines) it was as simple as crabbing 2 shims and machining the babbitt. I have a few boxes of aftermarket shims dating back to 1910 for replacing what might have been filed of the cap, the shims vary in a ...

Kerry

Carson, it wasn't that the battery/generator system was unreliable but cost in giving the customer the option of the cheapest T, batteries were not cheap for some reason back then, example in 1922 a battery in Fords parts books cost $25.oo and a magneto assembly only $6.oo so a battery, starter and ...

Kerry

The issue with the early heavy rods is that it takes a heap more babbitt to re-build, making the bearing thick compared to the better machining of the later rods.

Kerry

When you say you had slipping issues and the new band as you say is still pathetic, the problem is more than likely the cams on the shaft.

Kerry

I feel for your problem but at the same time, am amused by the fact that people think that a T is just a bolt together project, they are complex and take experience and knowledge to be a successful build, all I do are T's and come across major screw ups done to them, even by modern day mechanics and...

Kerry

Kerry

If the new owner was into authenticity of the year model, not only the color of the wheels but the wheels themselves would have been changed, they are later T wheels.

Kerry

Why would you want to trap heat inside either of them? same as painting the inside of an engine without an external oil cooler, something like 18% of oil temperature is transferred through the metal of an engine.

Kerry

Should be an easy one to date, it's right on a body style change, doors open at the front, then the last of the 23 Model, if the doors open at the rear, then the first of the new 24 Model.

Kerry

You might as well just call it hi or low as Ruckstell is not a ratio but a brand name.

Kerry

Overheating is when steam is blowing out, the monometer nearly up to the top on a hot day is normal on older condition radiator.

Kerry

Ford called the Rux a 2 speed axle so a low is obvious in the thinking and yes, the other a direct but the Canadian Rux's that came to Australia mostly had, as the parts books called it a, Crown gear and pinion of 3 to 1 ratio, so although still a direct drive it was higher than a stock rear end the...

Kerry

"You can't make a new car out of used parts" well not really true, the TD2000 was factory built with a Nissan engine, when Nissan could no longer supply, they opted to fit reconditioned engines, and when the company sold out to a Malaysian company, they used new Toyota running gear. Screenshot (257)...

Kerry

I have a 27 T with a Rux and the spring load shifter and drive it the same as my truck days with an Eaton diff, just get to speed in Ford top and Rux low and throttle off at the same time as shifting to Rux Hi. feet stay away from pedals. Your question of Rux Hi to Ford Hi is just driving a normal T.

Kerry

And then Ford built in 1915/16 25400 chassis and I have read if I remember correctly in a Ford Times that 41000+ chassis in 1917 and was still assembling brass ones in that model year to reduce surplus stock and suppling them to the Army, maybe that included RHD parts as well.

Kerry

One can run the maths, recommend, speculate, assume and guess what should or shouldn't need or work, but at the end of the day it is how the engine runs. I've fitted Z heads on what sound very healthy as stock, but after fitting the head for what sounds like pre- ignition turns out to be piston slap...

Kerry

What we use in my part of the world is better octane fuel, your highest is the same as our lowest, 95 is our mid range which works fine but if we need to 98 octane is available as well.

Kerry

A wise choice, let the machine shop do it, unless you have the right tooling it is near impossible to ream a guide square to the seat by hand.

Kerry

Told correct, you need to do the 2 cuts, from a worn STD guide a .030" will not start.

Kerry

Try it now Allan, I was a few letters short on that web site link. veterancarrims.co.uk

Kerry

They are being made new again in England. veterancarrims.co.uk and they have Snyders in the USA as an agent to supply.

Kerry

Still have to know what to look for in finding rims, the 21" Chev looks the same but the valve for the tube does not line up with the Ford wheel felloe.

Kerry

The only difference is that the Canadian ones have the holes near the split rim for the spreading tool, also yours has a home made split lock. I have bought USA rims before and used on Canadian T and fit OK.

Kerry

26/7 Canadian Ford split rims

Kerry

#1 has a few mods as well, 15/16 fenders and a fluted hood as well.

Kerry

Bad maths James, 3x12 will give 36 volts required for the charge.

Kerry

First time I've seen a watts clutch fail, is your sister when driving backing the throttle off between low to high change?

Kerry

I have this in my files, can't remember its origins but only the one hole showing.

Kerry

Just turn it around.

Kerry

I'm a bit like Henry in keeping a pile of scrap under cover taking up valuable floor space

Kerry

A couple of very early photo's of lumber storage From Ford. Scraps and all.

Kerry

Greg, you are correct.

Kerry

My brother still runs a radiator service in Australia, re-coring is just a question of sending the measurements and style of the core to the manufactures that supply them.

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