MTFCA Forum

Kerry

This has been debated a few times several years ago but I can't find it with a search, we all know that with a radial crack it's scrap, a time bomb waiting to go off but with a horizontal crack, no one has ever seen a crank split the length of a journal unless someone can say so now. The consensus b...

Kerry

If I remember correctly the VW dizzy turns backwards in a T so no auto advance. The period American Bosch dizzy for the T can be found with some having a mechanical advance.

Kerry

The drive plate only has one bush, early or late.

It's the driven gear sleeve on the brake drum that can have 2 or 1 bush.

Kerry

I'd say pull it out and get it checked out, if the cut out shorted out then the generator tried to motor, it could be fried.

Kerry

For your first problem, it looks like the clutch is not tight enough and would be slipping on hill climbing, should have 13/16" between the drive plate and the fork push ring adjusted on the 3 fingers, with that right the spring should be 2" long. Second problem. As others have said, engine out and ...

Kerry

Hank, I've never had a problem fitting out of the box HC domed pistons to a low head. May be some difference in Canadian ones to the USA ones?

Kerry

Well in reading that I would say maybe a rip-van-winkle but not "The Rip-van-Winkle", shows signs of some things well used and some replacements over the last 100+ years. 100% original is a little off.

Kerry

You have to get the shimming right first, using time-saver on a engine that you can't turn over will do diddly-squat!

Kerry

Might need some more details on your question, but if you are talking about removing the pins to resize, not a good idea for refit to fly wheel, if doing them on the fly wheel I haven't heard of that. Now if new pins, they need no more than polishing to a fine finish in a lathe or drill if they fit ...

Kerry

Piston fitting from the bottom, not unless you remove the crank and also chamfer the bottom of the bore as well. Another thing I would be checking seeing it's out, would be the alignment of No 1 rod, they bend easy, it could have altered some from hydraulic pressuring while running with water in it....

Kerry

Mmmm Susanne, I'll post a little story, I had 3x 4cly Chevs and 2x 6 clys pre going toT's. never broke anything on them and then I got my first T and was told, carry a spare axle, they break, Now I have 5 T's and never broke an axle, but a drum and crank, yes.

Kerry

1 coil at a time will buzz as you rotate the engine with the crank or starter through each cylinder cycle.

Kerry

Can't help you on performance but first thing to check with those single port Chev heads is the top of the exhaust port for cracks, they can be bad and not worth trying to repair.

Kerry

Might be of some help? photo's of a head and gaskets, heat ring is as close to the bolts as yours but the seal ring in the gasket water hole has more head surface to seal on than yours.

Kerry

1912 parts book say, Push rod bushing, 1909-11, Iron.

Kerry

That's what I find with all my T's, a couple of turns with the choke closed and then the engine fires right up with the choke open, trying to close the choke any while the engine is running only over fuels it and stops.

Kerry

The ones that are available from the vendors today don't look like yours, but may still use the same seal?? The seal # is POS26407 TF marked PEER TAIWAN.

Kerry

I can see that pointy bit being a problem, we had the same issue on Morris and Austin heads, it would get extra hot and give pre ignition of the fuel, a glow plug.

Kerry

Steve, I'd be a little worried that the cam gear could eat that inside chain.

Kerry

maybe of some help, key for the straight axle 1/4x 1/4 x 4-9/16, Bore on the hub 1-1/16 x 4-3/4

Kerry

Had a few of these over the years, The Essex earnt the nick-name of the "GUTLESS WONDER" The story I was told many years ago was that the demo cars for the agents were built from aluminium, giving them some get up and go, but when you received your nice new Essex, the body was all steal, making them...

Kerry

I hope you didn't up-end that gallon of cold water straight into a boiling engine

Kerry

Right Mark, a smack in the middle with the ball of a engineering hammer would do just that.

Kerry

What's holding your welsh (freeze) plugs in?

Kerry

How dose one tell if a cut out is + or neg ground? I've never come across any markings on them, the last few I bought from Isral had been described to fit T's, A's and the V8.

Kerry

The crank can be drilled but if doing it in the car, make sure you can get to the hole from the other side as well so you can punch out the drill bits you are more than likely to break in trying.

Kerry

Hi Alan Answer is lots, I've seen them do a complete melt down if not set up right,, pull the 3rd brush up so no contact, connect jumper leads up to motor generator, rotate the brush plate to start to motor either way and then lock the brush plate in neutral running, not motoring either way. Then dr...

Kerry

Never had a problem with them myself, but then I re-torque the cast iron heads when hot and aluminium when cold like one is supposed too.

Kerry

Looks to be some ones creation, don't believe it to be an original Ford set up. You wouldn't want to re-use those valves anyway, they are 2 piece ones that are prone to break.

Kerry

Can't say that I've come across what you have described, but then again I've only re-built 2 open valve blocks, used modern valves, vendors springs, caps, pins and adjustable push rods. replace the push rod guides with bronze ones, some times you can come across NOS cast ones on Ebay.

Kerry

I was thinking more like the side light bracket off a TT.

Kerry

10 pumps twice a year wouldn't be enough, the uni joint need to be full of grease every 500 miles.

Kerry

Mmm! don't know about that, the steel frame seems to be on the wrong side of the panels and I'm not seeing any legs.

Kerry

I second that, left on to block the holes that have been drilled in the block.

Kerry

I found it doesn't matter what oil one uses with the tiger timers, they don't last very long regardless.

Kerry

Are you trying with the choke as well ? it's not uncommon for a T to vapor lock on a hot engine.

Kerry

I have 5 T's and none have them in the springs, even if you could get one in, I don't think it would stay there long.

Kerry

What sort of wear are the tires showing?

Kerry

Canadian engines still had DB heavy rods until 1916.

Kerry

Click on Home, left top corner, then open Research and then the Encyclopedia, Serial Numbers will answer your question.

Kerry

George.
Don't know the origin of the pistons but are T STD bore size and wrist pin size.
The engine was recon many years ago and left in storage, brought to me to check out to be used. What a mess it was

never would have ran the way it was.

Kerry

Looks like a bird cage with a cover on it.

Kerry

All I can tell you by looking at it, that the screen body mounts that have the clearance lights on, are later than 15/16. so a mix of parts?

Kerry

Hand brake any idea that any more than a light decking would be a good idea for a T block T blocks have no wear lip in the bore for a reason, the top ring comes up flush with the deck on cast pistons and only a small fraction off TDC on aluminium ones. Depending on make of piston, always check; This...

Kerry

If you look at a removable band you will see that the end of the band is clipped into the ear which in turn makes it the same as a riveted ear.

Kerry

RHD are reversed and give no problems, the band it's self was the problem, the ear wasn't fitting correctly.

Kerry

The carbie will need to re-set the mixture, after a re-build the engine has a new vacuum value, tune it to match.

Kerry

James. Well I'm going on what I can remember from some 45 years ago when 1\4 mile time drag racing, the train of thought back then was at least 5HP for the type of pump back then and another 5HP for a generator. So our team raced with no pump or genny and the cooling system was filled with casting s...

Kerry

Never used it myself but after reading their web site info on the stuff I agree with one thing they state when I'm thinking T,

"Water is considered the best heat-transfer medium, in it's liquid state"

Kerry

That damage would be the least of the problems, the axle is stuffed.

Kerry

Dan.
The only time that triple gears are not turning is when in top direct drive, in neutral they still spin and can stall the engine and or try to drive the car forward if locking up. If the parking brake is working good then it would stall out the engine.

Kerry

Could be any of a number of things,
Ring gap, piston clearance, piston pin, cam shaft bearings, the Babbitt on crank, transmission bushing and even the valves or push rods in the guides.

Kerry

Very nice.
The only thing I'm seeing, the front hubs have been up graded to later ones, a change that I would leave as is, they are a stronger hub around the outer bearing.

Kerry

Rajo's fit but the rocker cover is modified for the 26/7 fire wall. But the problem I found was they stink of oil fumes being open at the back of the rocker cover, removed my 4 valve for that reason.

Kerry

I agree it needs to be checked but don't agree that using the tail shaft/drive plate is the way to go. I've found that just the brake drum and drive plate has it's own problems for run out. Do each on own, crank on V blocks, shaft bolted on with it's dowels and use a dial indicator. The brake drum a...

Kerry

Just make sure that your earth clamp is next to your weld area and all will be good.

Kerry

Actually it would be around the other way, if welding to close to something that is magnetized, it stuffs up the weld, Called magnetic arc.

Kerry

Bob,
Question asked, and answered with what you posted, spot on, a bearing of surface area the size of a T crank will suffer with X'ing.

Kerry

A T and model that you and those who have contributed to it's restoration should be very proud of.

Kerry

Another thing I just picked up on, those rods have no oil swipe cut on the parting lines, with no oil hole for a dipper and no swipes, I give them about 15 minutes before they stuff-up.

Kerry

If you need insert bearing dipper rods, Snyders sell them, maker, don't know but I have fitted a few sets and look a very nice rod but now no longer have STD bearings for them. As for Scat, I believe they recommend only to use oil pump with their rods and crank.

Kerry

No dipper holes? and what's with all those shims on the second rod photo?

Kerry

Blow the photo up to full screen size and you will see 3 cracks, the major one is up the oil groove closest and another one on the other oil groove and also one running around the radius. As an engine builder I do not approve of these type of rods in a T engine. Oil grooved rods give less mileage du...

Kerry

It's a crack all right. do not use it.

Kerry

Why change the generator, all that is needed is a 12v regulator or cut out and check/reset amps and done, and easy to change back.
Bulbs.
Many a T have 12v on the original starter but can be hard on the Bendix spring.

Kerry

I thought the cut out was no more than a electromagnetic switch, the question would be if the 8v battery would energize the 12v cut out? With the cut out system the battery voltage was the regulator, amps mattered not voltage, true?
I have no problems with running 6v cut outs on my 8v batteries.

Kerry

Your post is a little confusing, I have to ask, why 13T?

Kerry

Rocking the drums like that is only the lash in the triple gears, that's normal. the brass rivets are out of the bands and the brake drum groove is from band rivets, you can live with that also. What you need to be checking is the clearance of the bushings and for cracks in the drums.

Kerry

Just checked. Out of a dozen blocks I have, teens and through the 20's, yes one was, a 1926, In that the blocks came to Canada up to late 1917/early18 from the USA, made me wonder on how much machining etc Canada did. If USA was using that oil hole in the teens then Canada must have done everything ...

Kerry

John.
Maybe USA blocks? have a oil hole on the fly wheel side of the main but Canadian ones don't.

Kerry

We have a simple system with our insurance carrier, paid out the full amount, get to keep the wreck and no paper work to put back on the road with club permit other than a road worthy.

Kerry

And that should be a reminder to those that paint the inside of a T engine with "Glyptol"

Kerry

It will only get weaker in voltage as the miles clock up. Why didn't you make it right when it was apart?

Kerry

It's simple enough, shims or flat washers to fill the gap between the hogs head and block at the 2 bolts at the top, if you need to pry it any. Usually nothing is required. If your ball cap is sliding ok and sits flush on hogs and pan, gasket between, then bolt it all up, no gasket on the drive shaf...

Kerry

Sorry doubled up on photo

Kerry

Bill, John covered it. the threaded plates that hold on the dipper plate.

Ford changing to a 4 dipper in 1924 was a good indication that the 3 dipper was not a perfect design.
This one is in my stock pile of parts, a 3 dipper that has been converted to 4.

Kerry

I've found that damming any higher than about an 1/8" above the horse shoes can make the engine burn oil like crazy.

Kerry

Right running board brackets and rods for a T up to 1920.

Kerry

Can't help with a solution to your problem other than to say that 4 of my 5 T's run 8 volt battery's for many years and rallies. I have never blown a bulb yet.

Kerry

Jerry. That's the point about the posted question, A model T using bronze instead of conventional design or engineering. It worked before and after so really the question still remains on will it work for the T? We need an answer from someone who has done it before and give a result, just like your ...

Kerry

Scott, Calling it, reverting to 100 year old technology is one way of putting it but in saying 100 year old technology that still works today is another. How may of us have pulled down modern engines that are running on the bronze/brass/ copper alloy of a slipper shall and the crank is still in spec...

Kerry

With Les on this, good with it, would be better if it had a swipe of Babbitt on it. The American Lafrance V12 engine had 1\4" thick Bronze replacement bearings as did many WW1 Europe aircraft engines, cars and trucks, and of coarse nothing new when it comes to steam engines and pumps etc, used and a...

Kerry

Ford only had one size for the ball cap, others that are available now are for worn or machined down in size drive plates. You will need to remove the ball cap and measure the shaft of the drive plate to see what you need making sure that it's not out of round from wear.

Kerry

All the same " NOT "!!!
It doesn't stop there Jim, try being an engine rebuilder, especially the transmission, nothing but grief when trying to marry parts up to a zero run-out

Kerry

I rebuild several T's a year. always fit and recommend modern clutch packs to the owners. I push T's in and out of the shop every day to get working room, something that is not easy with the original clutch when one is a senior

Kerry

If you don't want all that plumbing hanging off your engine then just use your magneto to charge your battery. And a lot cheaper to set up as well

Kerry

Although mine is Canadian, the nut is on the inside of the frame rail and the hood board partly covers the bolt head.

Kerry

Simple answer, No. It will not start or run 180 out.

Kerry

Mark, Many of our Canadian T's of early 15'ns had forked electric head lights. Norm. The teens made interesting history on how T's would get to Australia, complete T's from Canada wasn't a problem pre war, then shipping was harder by 1915/16. Shipping black listed the southern end of the world due t...

Kerry

68 looks about right, those are early JAHNS pistons.

Kerry

Just an example of an over priced T in Oz, you can always ask but do you get?

Kerry

Allan, that's the problem in living at your part of Oz all costs you extra

10000 US to AU 14665 + west-cost exports US,1500 to east coast Oz Melb or Sydney, Now 10% GST but no stamp duty if over 30 years. Still do-able

What do you find in Australia under 20K these days?

Kerry

Maybe he's thinking of sending it down under, with dollar difference and freight he would break even, maybe even a little profit as well

Kerry

The block I'm re-building at the moment, all 8 are cast iron valve guides pressed in and then reamed to what ever valve stem size being used.

Kerry

.080" pistons are now available when once you could only get them in the high dome ones. Back in the day of the cast iron ones you would bore out to .120" + The thing to remember is the more you bore the thinner the wall and hotter the engine runs. The head gasket at the heat rings between 1&2- 3&4 ...

Kerry

Why go back to 6v? buy a 8v and be done with it, you wont be sorry in doing so.

Kerry

That point of being a left and right in that particular bow clamp, eliminates it being a Ford one then. Parts book shows only the one so must do both sides.

Kerry

I don't know about USA model's but yes, that bow saddle is a Ford part on Canadian overseas T's. part No 10068

Kerry

You blokes are seeing things that are just not there, it's a normal pour and the shims are still sitting on the block with some dirty oil marks as well, The oil swipes are cut a little rough but that bearing could be brought back to serviceable condition easily.

Kerry

That's from dirty oil, not changed often enough, and yes it would clean up alright, use wd40 and 320 wet and dry paper then about 1000 to finish. You remove stuff all Babbitt in cleaning it up and it doesn't need to be perfect.

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