MTFCA Forum

Kerry

Maybe that our Canadian T's differ from US models but we list in period parts books as having a centre rubber in 1920 Tourings.

Kerry

Inverted H-rubber 1915/22 and H rubber 1923/27 between the 2 windshields.

Kerry

Later than 15/16 and not worth fixing in my opinion, easy to find good ones.

Kerry

Looks like the spacer in the top left corner of your photo, so it must have had your attention at some stage.

Kerry

Also when mixing year parts you can still end up with a clutch dragging with the fingers backed off, there are 2 sizes in the pins on the pressure ring and 2 hole sizes in the drive plate. They don't play well together if mixed wrong.

Kerry

Sorry Tony, missed that you backed off the screws, as posted, the early clutch packs had a thick spacer to stop the first clutch plate from slipping inbetween the drum and clutch hub, could be hanging up on that.

Kerry

They need fixing, if not it's not if but when the head gasket will blow.

Kerry

After blowing up your photo I see your problem, the clutch fingers are not adjusted correctly, the cotter pins are missing and the screws are backed out. The clutch is dragging so you can't crank.

Kerry

Not wrong, turning the rear wheel drives the brake drum drive plate so all drums will rotate through the triple gears and slip at the clutch plates.

Kerry

Scott.
A plastic set in one of my T,s had been rebuilt with new condensers although I didn't do them myself, they have been in the car with no faults for many years and clocked up many long tour miles.

Kerry

I'll go just one cent worth, never come across this in Canadian bearings as yet

Kerry

The gear is NOT a press fit on the camshaft, no heat is needed or even should be considered to ever use to do so. Drop your generator out and as slowly rotating the crank, with a hammer, tap the gear from the generator hole.

Kerry

Another possibility if a high pitch bronze bush squeal and stopping the engine is the rear cam bush, usually replaced with a bronze bush in engine rebuilds, I've even have a cam in stock with all 3 bearings being bronze.

Kerry

David,
the only time that triple gears are not turning is in direct drive/top gear and rotating as one mass to drive.

Kerry

Don't waste time looking at the crank, Babbitt will not give you a high pitch squeal but brass/bronze will, my money is on it's going to be a transmission problem'

Kerry

Was debated several years ago, more than likely in from new and consensus was nothing to worry about. Cranks have only failed with radial cracks.

Kerry

Driving in low? or direct?

Kerry

They do crack, so as Dan posted, the first thing is a crack test, if you are not willing to invest or take a chance on doing your money, then the buyer would take that chance, so sort of makes it worthless at a buyers prospective.

Kerry

Tooling up to do just one is not very cost effective, I've had others ask to do just what you are thinking, all to old to be of a benifit to the future of the hobby, because finding someone who can still Babbitt is far and few between at my end of the world, I offered , So if I'm going to show someo...

Kerry

Running 8 volt battery, changed nothing, good lights, easy starting and never blown a bulb in 10 years

Kerry

A little dearer than that, VAT tax $232 US + Postage.

Kerry

Some can just be a pain, even using a puller twice the size of yours, lucky I have many spare ones because sometimes the only way to get the sucker off is with heat, even slicing with a hot stick.

Kerry

John, looks like you need to fix a welsh plug.

Kerry

Interesting, I have a 26 and a 27, both are the behind the manifold, seems that both are factory. I'd have to say that my throttle shaft along the steering is also a little longer, putting the leverage between the manifold and the generator. Martynn, yes the butterfly shaft is on a different angle t...

Kerry

The throttle arm that go,s from the butterfly shaft to the control shaft on the steering colum, it is a half circle rod that go,s around and behind the inlet manifold. The one in the photo looks to be a home made one for a LHD carbie.

Kerry

USA was a little slow for the transition for the lower filler plug, Canada started with the 15/16
as of yet I have not come across the high one on the pumpkin change at that time frame on Canadian T,s

Kerry

Yes, my mistake, I was looking at a tank out of the car, checked one in and the indent is not for the steering but for ones foot to clear the tank at the high low pedal.

Kerry

Martynn
I,m working fron a note pad at the moment, computer died, so can,t post photo.
The tank has a different shape to what you have drawn, the bottom edge facing the seat is rolled not square and a dish in the tank for the steering column.

Kerry

Tim, sure, some human activity plays a big part in fires, some 180 nut cases have been charged for arson so far this fire season.

Kerry

Well the media are in good form, greenies, bleeding hearts and do Gooders are on the band wagon of global warming! Yes it is bad but what was the blame in January 1939? 71 died and 5,000,000 acres and several towns burnt out. We live with the chance of bush fires every summer, just some are worse th...

Kerry

The flats would remain the same, only the corners would require machining.

Kerry

Not getting any better, to much for fire fighters to handle, help from over seas to fight and army called in. several convoys of supplies and trucks loaded with hay for live stock, dozers and graders past my place today, navy ships bringing in food and water and to evacuate trapped people in coastal...

Kerry

FIrst, they are 1915/16 T,s. right hand drive so more than likely Canadian T,s. Canada did send some T,s over to France at that time in packing crates and the ambulance bodies built with that timber. Complete built T,s also, some being supplied by different Sponsers and charities for the war effort....

Kerry

Spot on Walter, regardless of which wheel is on the ground the drive of the lifted one is 100percent through the spider gears.

Kerry

I was told by our T parts vendor that no one is doing cam bearings full stop any more

Kerry

What.???? To much eggnog! Herm, merry Christmas

Kerry

Herm, sounds like out of 78 scats you never had to fit any of the pans

Kerry

Well Herm, USA Ford specs must differ from ours, decarboning about every 5000 miles and valve grind occasionally, a far cry from ripping into the engine every 3 months.

Kerry

I,m surprised at that Dale.

Kerry

I wish that scat would shave a bit off the diameter, would make life a lot easier to fit

Kerry

Les, l don,t disagree that the push and pull aren,t the same on both set ups but pedal pressure can,t be avoided on the brake when the drum turns both ways.

Kerry

Can't see torque loads making any difference, drums turn the same in LHD and RHD, but the peddle cams are on either side, left side for the LHD and right side for the RHD, and also the brake drum turns both ways for band action, forward and reverse.

Kerry

Assuming you are still using cast iron pistons.
Top ring .008" to .012" middle.006"to.008" and bottom .004" to 006"

Kerry

John. It's not really about the volts but Amps. Ford recommended at least 80 Amps, 6x6v to get the amps up there, that's why some arc welders would do the job and by today's battery AH's 2 heavy truck 12v could have the same resault. The only problem I've come across in rebuilds is that I've found a...

Kerry

Martynn
This rusty one I have has a jam nut and 2 wires.

Kerry

From a man who has 5 T's.

That got a laugh out of "'she who must be obeyed'"

Kerry

Joe.
True.

Kerry

George.
On the later coupe that has the oval tank, it still is higher than the frame, the seat base frame is built to roll over the tank.

Kerry

Kim.
If rotation was a problem then LHD T's would have the same issue when using the brake band when going in reverse.
I've never seen any problems as long as the band end is locked correctly on the ear.

Kerry

No, like a LHD they are on the pedal side so on a RHD they are on the pedal side.

Kerry

If you are running removable ear bands, don't forget to flip them around as well.

Kerry

It has a later high head on the engine as well.
I don't know if it's just the angle of the front axle photo or not? but it looks like the caster needs to be checked and fixed.

Kerry

Dean.
Chucked one on the scales and comes in at 20oz's with out the bearing fitted.

Kerry

I have fitted some up for other club members, no feed back on how they are running as yet. First your crank needs to be spot on, no room for error or ajustment, also I believe some of the insert bearing shells are no longer available, need to check that out.

Kerry

By Ford specs, if more than .006" it's scrap.

Kerry

Mack.
First make sure you have the right bushing, there are 2 sizes of OD for cast iron pistons that Ford used and chances of others for after market pistons or repairs over the life of an engine.

Kerry

John.
Doweling may have been done at a factory level? but I know it's done in re-builds, I've done several myself over the years on bad fitting ring gears.
As for the pinion sleeve, I wish that they could be bought or still made as I've come across shafts that sure could use them

Kerry

Haven't seen one but looks to be a dumb idea to me, why would you want to coast? the engine is half or more of your braking on a T.

Kerry

Ralph, Return email doesn't seem to be working for me so answer on here. I had 2 stuffed pans, 1 of each, so no loss to cut them up. Measured and sliced in-between number 1 & 2 with a thin cutting disc in a 4" angle grinder, bolted the 2 pieces to a block and mig welded. Cut 2 dipper plates butt and...

Kerry

I did one years ago for no other reason than to get at the number 4 rod easier if the need arose.

Kerry

If you need one now. Try Eckler's automotive in Titusville in Florida, they still have 3 new ones listed on Ebay

Kerry

Only place I've seen one is list as discontinued on Mac's web site.

Kerry

Alan.
Answer to your question is yes, according to parts books, that screw in type 1908 to about the end of 1913. It also looks like the same as N,R & S gasoline tank stop cock.

Kerry

Rather than trash an axle that could still have some life left, what about an over size bearing sleeve, that would be much cheaper I'm sure.

Kerry

Gene
I'm sure no one would try to fit a stem after both beads are on the rim, plenty of youtube clips on how to do it right, even one from Coker tires.

Kerry

Adam, your instructions would be the opposite to what I was taught on fitting a tube and tire, always finish at the valve stem so not to cut it with the tire bead when fitting.

Kerry

I have 5 T's and all run coils, one has 4 plastic ones in it for several years, a stock 27 and a long distance tourer. The only issue I've had with one coil is it broke one side of the points, an easy fix.

Kerry

Hey Cam.
1000rpm crank = 1500rpm generator.

Kerry

I forgot to mention that spiral bevel gears came in a matching sets, as ring and pinion, to try and miss match usually ended up with a diff that screamed like a fire truck siren.

Kerry

Top one looks to be Model A and second one 30's V8.

Kerry

I worked part time at a wrecking yard as a kid. Would someone with a 1912 car fit a 1915 diff in 1925? of course he would. by 1925 the 12 and 15 are no more than just junk cars, one would fit anything just to keep the wheels turning

Kerry

14 has a flat lid top and at the clip line.

Kerry

Dick.
That coil box is not 15/16 or 14, I'm seeing more like a 17/25 box.

Kerry

Why twice as many centre caps? Because many a engine rebuild has ended up with a front bearing cap being used in the centre, therefore a surplus amount of centre caps turn up in collections. Which isn't a problem if the babbitting is done the full length to carry the crank jounal and match the block...

Kerry

Can't help with what they started out as but checking a couple of dozen, I come up with the thickest at 575 and thin 535.

Kerry

Well to start a pole on that. I don't look at the classifieds to often.

Kerry

Sure that works when the engine is out of the car, a bit hard to use head bolt dowls when trying to get the head under the fire wall as well, if you have help to hold the head up off the gasket and then screw in a couple of dowl bolts then all will work.

Kerry

Using the ball cap to maintain pressure on the clutch spring is the craziest thing I've ever seen

will it work? not for long!

Kerry

Norm.
You got that around the wrong way

Cast iron head is re-torqued hot.
And aluminium is re-torqued stone cold.

Kerry

Do you have the front uni joint and adapter housing? I believe they are hard to find for the cast iron warfords if missing.

Kerry

John, I don't know the origin of the hubs, a period accessory? they are made from aluminiun. This photo was taken in 1963 and they are on the car then. The T has some interesting history, staged for a photo's on the Geelong Ford production line for the 50th and 75th. I'm aiming for Geelongs Ford 100...

Kerry

My 26 still has a few of the Delux fittings, tail light, mirror and rubber side steps. Still unrestored , 74,000 miles and original paper work from dealership about 50miles from the Australian Ford factory in Geelong.

Kerry

A bit hard to tell with what photo's we have to work with but I'm going to say at some time in it's life it's scored a 26/7 engine, besides the fan water outlet mount, it looks like top bolts on the hogs head as well.

Kerry

I'm not saying it's not a harley, I don't know enough about them, just it's not the same as Rich's photo. The inlet manifold is on the barrels lower than the harley and the push rod covers are evenly spaced apart unlike the ones in the Harley photo.

Kerry

Yep, as I was told once, T's are clock work, you need to wind them up.

Kerry

Looks like the hard lining that is used in the turning brakes in bull dozers.

Kerry

I can help on the first question. Ford literature shows no Runabout for 1909/10 but had the mother inlaw seat on the fully equipped Roadster in 1909/10. 1911 Runabout had a fuel tank on the back and in 1912 called the Torpedo Runabout with the tank. Roadsters still with or with out the mother inlaw ...

Kerry

David, I think that everyone does agree with you

one just has to come agross an unmolested pre great war T to find babbitt ones.

Kerry

The thrusts, part # 2528 started out as babbitt, by 1916 Ford lists for a short time as fibre then a change to being called composition, with the final description being metal until the end of production. Canadian diffs had bronze and still listed until 1917, I've pulled down 16'ns that could be eit...

Kerry

It looks T to me, just a spring kit of some sort fitted.

Kerry

The trouble with changing to a 5w oil is at the expense of the longevity of the engine, it's far to light for the clearances of T bearings with mild to warm and hot weather.

Kerry

Bill, I think you covered it in your description, a bigend rattle is the connecting rod on the crankshaft, with the wear in the cam bearing you get a rattle that will drive you nuts. Like you say, an advance rattle. The later cams are easy to make a good fit bearing if a new one still gives to much ...

Kerry

Back to your question, yes you need to get a new bearing, with that much float in the cam it will sound like the engine has done a bigend.

Kerry

I second what Adam has posted.

Kerry

Haven't seen the lifters that had a higher stem base for several years, the ones on the market today are machined with a nice taper, just a quick touch with a drill bit or stone to chamfer the block guide holes to just make sure on clearance on the high lift cams is all that is needed.

Kerry

I've never heard of any issues in using adjustables on the 280, as George states I've ran the same for several years. And as for the bearing, yes new ones sometimes need turning in the lathe for a final fit.

Kerry

Good one Cam

black and white as well?

Kerry

Kerry

The first of the starter T's at our end of the world had a bolt on belt driven generator.

Kerry

Several years, it's a " Heinz 57 Variety"

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