MTFCA Forum

Kerry

Looks to me like reflector and globe.

Kerry

That can't be good, letting power get back to the magneto.

Kerry

You have another issue other than over greasing, your axle already has a shim on it and the hub is still rubbing on the seal casing so fitting a modern seal is going to be a problem. Usually it's the hub that has the most wear so find a better hub or remove the hub from the wheel and have the lip tu...

Kerry

Yes, must have a battery hooked up.

Kerry

what voltage battery are you using for your bench test? also cut out or a regulator?

Kerry

As a engine builder, I'm saying that on a fresh engine just flush with a fresh gallon of oil, run for several minutes and change again. Then change the oil often. 4 to 500 miles.

Kerry

It has been debated many times on the forum on clearance, if you set up with only .002" they tend to give trouble, .002" each side, pin .004" smaller than bush hole is the minimum.

Kerry

I think it's BS, no way carburetor jets and fuel line that small work, just look at what is required to run a model plane and car engines.

Kerry

Agreed Jim, seems that Ford was playing funny buggers with batteries, no mention of a battery in pre Sept 21 parts books although all electricals are listed, maybe like the spare wheel, you get a rim but the tire cost you extra

Kerry

Jim. I found that price as well in a Sept1921 parts book, I do question that on being correct because other parts books later say $10.00 for a new Ford battery.

Kerry

My scanner has died so can't post what is in parts book, the Ford battery was available from a complete battery to some 20 parts, plates, caps, lead posts, rubber etc, so you could rebuild/ repair the battery.

Kerry

Shouldn't have passed quality control when it was made.

Kerry

Shouldn't be, Ford never recommended driving on battery, always turn key to magneto as soon as car started in the electric starter /battery model instruction books.

Kerry

Could be a tricky one for you. So going by the USA parts book, they changed in 1921 but over seas edition (Ontario) running board
+ truss rods still listed to 1922.

Kerry

Nice Martynn, just about there, add a ear with the hole in it for the clutch on the h/l pedal to take the clevis connection and a third spring.

Kerry

I can see your point but one would need to be completely mechanical competent and model T savvy to follow your logic, for one not so, would think a T has only 2 pedals. So what was grand-pa on about when telling his T story's when coming across your drawing, finding a 3rd pedal with the bands drawin...

Kerry

Martynn For the life of me I can't see the logic in that, you add the slow speed clevis and connection which is a part that can only be completed when connected to the h/l pedal and yet you feel the pedal shouldn't complete the description of the drawing but add the magneto contact assembly when in ...

Kerry

Martynn, no high/low pedal?

Kerry

I'm still saying the pad has been filed.

Kerry

A crack like that is unusual but it can be fixed, more than likely will need a sleeve in that cylinder as well.

Kerry

It looks more like that the # pad has been filled going by the shape left of the water pad. usually the water and # pad are of the one machining.

Kerry

The good lord let it happen for a reason so you would post it on the forum, then a SA like me

can tell you to get rid of that copper fuel line.

Kerry

Just checked photo's of a 1910 RHD with known history here in Australia, shows it had a left side mounted tail light.

Kerry

If you follow the instructions of an in-car charge, yes you can do it on a stand and with out the hogs head on, hold the positive on the lead block to avoid damaging it and do the striking with the negative lead on the block.

Kerry

All the bearings also had a oil swipe groove cut at the parting lines. Has, or are you going to fit dippers?

Kerry

Jeff, agreed, we will never really know on time lines of change on the Canadian changes compared to the better records of the USA. As you posted, many have stated that Canadian block casting started in 1919 but yet I have in the workshop a Made in Canada block with casting date 2-18-18

Kerry

Susanne, I reckon it was an 8, the engine number pad is a give away too being the longer one.

Kerry

000_0679.JPG Something else that may be unique to Canadian Hogs, with the transition to cast iron, come across this one in having the support ribs that are much larger than what was added to the later aluminium ones and larger than what's on later 16+ cast hogs, The pedals are ribbed ones on this c...

Kerry

It seems you are over thinking it, Ford never did, just smack those numbers in.

Kerry

Band is adjusted too tight.

Kerry

Could have Wayne, looks to me like it's had a few up-grades, looking through the front wheel spokes on the photo blown up, I reckon you can see dipper pan bolts.

Kerry

I've never noticed any difference, if there was it would put a demand on low heads but the only demand on low heads is for the T to be period correct if fitted with the wrong one.

Kerry

I don't bother with the vendors seals for that very reason, I buy mine from our local bearing supplier and fit just fine.

Kerry

Boring and fitting a sleeve will not cut into the water jacket unless the block has rusted though in spots from age.

Kerry

"well perhaps the British knew something"
Sure did, MG's had a external oil cooler.

Kerry

Jerry, you say it may help in cooling, regardless of trying to keep heat in or out, glyptal does exactly that. The moving parts generate friction heat which in turn transfers to the oil, the oil needs to transfer that generated heat, put a barrier in between which has very little thermal conductivit...

Kerry

I'm gonna use it to paint my cast iron hot plate on my BBQ

Kerry

Jim, you hit the nail on the head with saying that Glyptal was and is, used for electrical components, and is for no other reason other than to keep heat out, do it to the internal of an engine is doing exactly what it's designed for, restricting heat transfer through the metals. Even the VW beetle ...

Kerry

Maybe the fuel line needs a little tweaking at the wood block to clear the exhaust pipe taking a new route.

Kerry

Nothing to debate just a simple No. Lab tests carried out in 1941, SAE 30, 2000rpm "The amount of heat absorbed by the oil in the ordinary engine is not so great that it cannot be satisfactorily dissipated through the walls of the crankcase" The lubricating oil handles as much as 19% of the total en...

Kerry

It's fired up on You-tube, the deck is a BBQ as well.

Kerry

Parts book, pipe 4037-B for LHD and 4037-C for both L & RHD.

Kerry

Complete Hand brake + the chassis ratchet Depending on year, the fire wall, 3 steel ones listed. cut and weld etc. The 26/7 fire wall would take some mods, fuel tank is also reversed like pedal clearance and the tap. 3 steering brackets are listed Engine pans if still using them. Floor boards batter...

Kerry

I've only ever replaced seats when required, have rebuilt many engines with over size valves out of later brands of engines and cutting new seats in the cast and many now having high mileage on them, no valve problems, not even ever having to re-set lash.

Kerry

If you are looking for a period correct year and model T, that green one is not going to fit the bill, it's a salad mix of years from 1914 to 1927

Kerry

Another thing that sounds like a crank knock is the cam shaft, any more than several thou end play (float) on the front bearing will do it. A thrust washer kit can be bought to stop this.

Kerry

First thing is there is no positive earth alternators, maybe a few in the 1960's but not the done thing today. I don't know if someone is still making the vendor alternators the same way today but there was some that had the drive gear held on just with a roll pin, that would work it's way out and m...

Kerry

Dan, I've always considered those ring gap specs to be a misprint, they need to be reversed, the heat and hottest ring is always the top one and needs the larger clearance in any engine, even a compressor. And Joe, don't confuse your self with those specs, they are for the cast iron pistons, alumini...

Kerry

So you are asking for piston clearance, the only way you can measure that is to have the piston out, on a engine that has miles up on it and you are re- ringing then .006" on the thrust sides would be OK.

Kerry

STD bore size is 3-3/4" (3.750) clean the top of the piston, they are usually marked as to what over size they are.

Kerry

If you worried about a few casting pits in the surface then you would be scraping just about every drum in T transmissions, that reverse one will be ok, give it a polish in a lathe with emery cloth. As for the brake one, that's well worn but best to leave the edge that high to match the height of th...

Kerry

Allan's onto something there, parts book shows the change to the pin mount of the release fork in 1913.

Kerry

Question 1, yes you can, it's the only way I've ever fitted the drive plate, screw out the 3 adjuster screws and when fitting to brake drum, just make sure the 3 pins on the push plate are poking through and do up the bolts evenly. The spring puts no pressure on any thing until you replace and adjus...

Kerry

I've come across this sort of problem before, turned out that the end of the cam shaft was bent.

Kerry

And as much as we like to tell ourselves they are the better of the cranks, they still will break

A few scats have been known to too.

Kerry

Sounds like the bands are to tight, back off the reverse and high/low some and see if it will do it again.

Kerry

Ford never did paint or seal under the hub so you got to ask your self, will I live long enough to have to re-build the wheels a second time because you didn't.

Kerry

Tiger timers were made in the USA and in Japan, I've used both, as for best lube? didn't seem to make any difference, neither lasted very long

Kerry

No,
one can't tell if they are two piece valves by the two dimples in the top unless you can see they are cast iron heads, a lot of replacement one piece valves had the dimples for grinding the valves right up into the 1970's+, lifting the valve or looking in the port will tell you.

Kerry

If I was buying it, it would be with the full intent on pulling it apart and checking all, over the years I've gone through engines for club members that have been so-called reconditioned. It can be a real eye opener on some of the stuff ups found or the BS a buyer has been told.

Kerry

Buying pistons can be a little premature, I've had blocks that have taken as much as from a STD to .060 before they have cleaned up.
Your machine shop will work it out for what to order.

Kerry

Happy birthday

like myself, the 31st, if we were born a day later, we would be a year younger

Kerry

Seeing that you fella's are talking cam shafts, maybe someone can tell me what I've got here. I removed it from a T engine that was to be a speedster that was built a long time ago and never started, the lift is maxed out to bearing height and as well has a very long duration. cam is next to a stock...

Kerry

Allan,
we might never know on Canadian block casting, Bruce McCalley's research and book says Dec 1919 around C230000 but I have a block in the workshop with casting date 2/18/18 C152000, with made in Canada on it.

Kerry

Jerry, can't say I've seen it work that way, when the back of the block breaks, it takes the bolt boss and all out.

Kerry

Come across a couple in engine rebuilds over the years, none passed a crack test.

Kerry

That's why every town once had a black smith/ spring works. Springs break.

Kerry

Art, might get away with .010" wear in the old days as you say, a cast iron piston usually had a bottom ring that could reduce some piston slap, trying .010" on a aluminium piston will sound like a tin can with marbles in it rattling like a machine gun from piston slap.

Kerry

Piston replacement will require a check of bore size and wear. More than likely will need to be bored and that will mean pulling the engine out.

Kerry

If I remember correctly, it was Parker that got a smack for that, I still have one of his low heads with the Ford script on it.

Kerry

Sales Brochure, USA, Nov 15 1914, Couplet and sedan, both with forked electric lights. So very possible a few of the first open cars as well?

Kerry

I know covid is no help in a business trying to make ends meet but sometimes it can be their own fault, around here it's the failure of not training younger people to take over. I'm an example of that and my brother, still doing radiators by himself at 68. I've offered to show a younger person on ho...

Kerry

The way I read the question is the diameter of the crank at the pulley, so 1.248 is not correct, that's the journal size. The gear presses
on to the shoulder of the front main journal so the pulley diameter of the crank shaft is smaller.

Kerry

Start with a small drill bit and then a few in-between sizes up to your final size.

Kerry

Those bushes look to be bronze, no give in that stuff, it's as brittle as cast iron.

PS, just went out to the work shop and grabbed a original Ford triple gear bush out of the scrap bin, beat the crap out of it and bent it every which way, no way it shattered like a biscuit.

Kerry

Parts book shows in 1912 the list of parts for the first 2500, the magneto is not listed, but, In 1911 with the recommendation of substituting magneto of later design, coil and fly wheel for cars up to 20500. I did read at some time that the magneto was up graded because those tin ones would flex to...

Kerry

If not out of round and a crack test, that crank would polish up just fine for service again.

Kerry

I don't have any problems with a crank at .040" never had one fail yet over many rebuilds and years. Even re-poured a block for someone that had a .060" grind that was in it for who knows how long, and then still lasted another 12+ years of hard driving before breaking.

Kerry

Yes, it's a big ask for a T std bore to be good enough to fit an aluminum piston. They even very rarely clean up to the next size, the last one I just bored was std and took to .060" before it was 100% clean.

Kerry

Lang's is my first choice, but many others, Snyders, Mac's, Chaffins, Birdhaven, and several others, some that specialize in building and or improved parts and then the likes of tires, radiators, electrical, springs, heads, many I've mist as the list is long.

Kerry

Will, I didn't say it wasn't in the service book, I said that I was not seeing it, as for calling you stupid, that would only apply to you if you are considering that removing the starter in that manor was a good idea! or recommend it to some one, as for a face to face debate on the topic, sure just...

Kerry

Now Will, of cause lifting the hogs head up will let you remove the starter as a whole but no one is going to do that just to remove a starter, are they? let alone replace it the same way

That would be a special kind of stupid

Kerry

Not seeing that in my Ford service book Will, remove bendix then withdraw starter.

Kerry

When fitting a Z head you must check that you have piston clearance, more often than not you need to grind the head some. Power wise they are great.

Kerry

The question is for Ford sizes so will list those from a Canadian parts book/
Standard, .001, .002, 003, .003, .004, .005, .010, .015, .020, .025, .030, .033, .035, .040, .045
But rings was only, standard, ,005, .015, .025, .035, and .045

After market ones is another story

Kerry

Man! you all made it hard for him, it's simple, the low head is 2" tall at the head bolts and the high head is 2-1/2" tall at the bolts.

Kerry

John.
Something else is a miss in that photo. That drive plate should be back further, the end about inline with the back of those 2 bolt holes in the pan, uni joint should be about 3/4 of the way in it with the position you have that drive shaft sitting.

Kerry

Thanks Hap I see it now, that early set up must have been done away with early, the only pinion listed by 1911 is the tapered one, pinion only or shaft with a pinion.

Kerry

Just a curiosity question, 1909 parts book show the pinion as 9/16" bore and 12 teeth then 1911/13 as 5/8" bore and 12 teeth.
The photo's above show 11 teeth pinion, was there options or parts book wrong?

Kerry

With a long screw driver between the block and front crank pulley and then the hole on pan to push it back, see if it floats in and out, you should have none. That will tell you if it's a good re-build or not.

Kerry

Pressure pack of copper seal, buy from Repco, auto barn or super cheap, or you can use brush on silver frost.
Make sure all your head bolt threads are cleaned out, scratch out the crap in the bottom of them and blow out with air. I also use never seize on the head bolt threads.

Kerry

The spark plug boss is over the valves, so no bother there for piston and the primer holes would be 1/8" pipe thread so try a plumber /gas supply shop for plugs for them.

Kerry

I've never had any problems fitting a stock low head to vendor supplied high domed pistons., and have done several over the years.

Kerry

Neat.

We don't have the luxury of room on our T's, one has to contend with the steering,

Kerry

You can't get the same tension on a T belt as a modern race engine. The fan bushing wouldn't last 5 minutes, clean steel slips enough with a bit of oil around let alone the slippery surface of 2 pack paint added as well, it's why race engines paint glyptol in side an engine, to have a frictionless s...

Kerry

The left thread boss/ear of the water outlet is fragile on a cast head, get that knocked in postage and can break off, wood box would be my first choice.

Kerry

Too cold, no, the worst that could happen it oils up. Too hot, yes, could burn a hole in a piston.
Most stationary engines run a mid range of J8

Kerry

There was a time when buying brand new coils, they had a note saying that they must be set before using. I don't know if that's still the case.

Kerry

You could safely say an early 12 but if 11/sept and the 12 started 30/sept 11 in USA, it would be a big ask to be a 11 considering to get to Canada then to Australia, I'm sure it would be released here as a 12 year model.

Kerry

The question would be if you can find another open valve block, it's value?? 6 to 10K? then rebuild on top of that. If you are able to pick this one up under 10 that would be a score

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