MTFCA Forum

Kerry

Bob,
Question asked, and answered with what you posted, spot on, a bearing of surface area the size of a T crank will suffer with X'ing.

Kerry

A T and model that you and those who have contributed to it's restoration should be very proud of.

Kerry

Another thing I just picked up on, those rods have no oil swipe cut on the parting lines, with no oil hole for a dipper and no swipes, I give them about 15 minutes before they stuff-up.

Kerry

If you need insert bearing dipper rods, Snyders sell them, maker, don't know but I have fitted a few sets and look a very nice rod but now no longer have STD bearings for them. As for Scat, I believe they recommend only to use oil pump with their rods and crank.

Kerry

No dipper holes? and what's with all those shims on the second rod photo?

Kerry

Blow the photo up to full screen size and you will see 3 cracks, the major one is up the oil groove closest and another one on the other oil groove and also one running around the radius. As an engine builder I do not approve of these type of rods in a T engine. Oil grooved rods give less mileage du...

Kerry

It's a crack all right. do not use it.

Kerry

Why change the generator, all that is needed is a 12v regulator or cut out and check/reset amps and done, and easy to change back.
Bulbs.
Many a T have 12v on the original starter but can be hard on the Bendix spring.

Kerry

I thought the cut out was no more than a electromagnetic switch, the question would be if the 8v battery would energize the 12v cut out? With the cut out system the battery voltage was the regulator, amps mattered not voltage, true?
I have no problems with running 6v cut outs on my 8v batteries.

Kerry

Your post is a little confusing, I have to ask, why 13T?

Kerry

Rocking the drums like that is only the lash in the triple gears, that's normal. the brass rivets are out of the bands and the brake drum groove is from band rivets, you can live with that also. What you need to be checking is the clearance of the bushings and for cracks in the drums.

Kerry

Just checked. Out of a dozen blocks I have, teens and through the 20's, yes one was, a 1926, In that the blocks came to Canada up to late 1917/early18 from the USA, made me wonder on how much machining etc Canada did. If USA was using that oil hole in the teens then Canada must have done everything ...

Kerry

John.
Maybe USA blocks? have a oil hole on the fly wheel side of the main but Canadian ones don't.

Kerry

We have a simple system with our insurance carrier, paid out the full amount, get to keep the wreck and no paper work to put back on the road with club permit other than a road worthy.

Kerry

And that should be a reminder to those that paint the inside of a T engine with "Glyptol"

Kerry

It will only get weaker in voltage as the miles clock up. Why didn't you make it right when it was apart?

Kerry

It's simple enough, shims or flat washers to fill the gap between the hogs head and block at the 2 bolts at the top, if you need to pry it any. Usually nothing is required. If your ball cap is sliding ok and sits flush on hogs and pan, gasket between, then bolt it all up, no gasket on the drive shaf...

Kerry

Sorry doubled up on photo

Kerry

Bill, John covered it. the threaded plates that hold on the dipper plate.

Ford changing to a 4 dipper in 1924 was a good indication that the 3 dipper was not a perfect design.
This one is in my stock pile of parts, a 3 dipper that has been converted to 4.

Kerry

I've found that damming any higher than about an 1/8" above the horse shoes can make the engine burn oil like crazy.

Kerry

Right running board brackets and rods for a T up to 1920.

Kerry

Can't help with a solution to your problem other than to say that 4 of my 5 T's run 8 volt battery's for many years and rallies. I have never blown a bulb yet.

Kerry

Jerry. That's the point about the posted question, A model T using bronze instead of conventional design or engineering. It worked before and after so really the question still remains on will it work for the T? We need an answer from someone who has done it before and give a result, just like your ...

Kerry

Scott, Calling it, reverting to 100 year old technology is one way of putting it but in saying 100 year old technology that still works today is another. How may of us have pulled down modern engines that are running on the bronze/brass/ copper alloy of a slipper shall and the crank is still in spec...

Kerry

With Les on this, good with it, would be better if it had a swipe of Babbitt on it. The American Lafrance V12 engine had 1\4" thick Bronze replacement bearings as did many WW1 Europe aircraft engines, cars and trucks, and of coarse nothing new when it comes to steam engines and pumps etc, used and a...

Kerry

Ford only had one size for the ball cap, others that are available now are for worn or machined down in size drive plates. You will need to remove the ball cap and measure the shaft of the drive plate to see what you need making sure that it's not out of round from wear.

Kerry

All the same " NOT "!!!
It doesn't stop there Jim, try being an engine rebuilder, especially the transmission, nothing but grief when trying to marry parts up to a zero run-out

Kerry

I rebuild several T's a year. always fit and recommend modern clutch packs to the owners. I push T's in and out of the shop every day to get working room, something that is not easy with the original clutch when one is a senior

Kerry

If you don't want all that plumbing hanging off your engine then just use your magneto to charge your battery. And a lot cheaper to set up as well

Kerry

Although mine is Canadian, the nut is on the inside of the frame rail and the hood board partly covers the bolt head.

Kerry

Simple answer, No. It will not start or run 180 out.

Kerry

Mark, Many of our Canadian T's of early 15'ns had forked electric head lights. Norm. The teens made interesting history on how T's would get to Australia, complete T's from Canada wasn't a problem pre war, then shipping was harder by 1915/16. Shipping black listed the southern end of the world due t...

Kerry

68 looks about right, those are early JAHNS pistons.

Kerry

Just an example of an over priced T in Oz, you can always ask but do you get?

Kerry

Allan, that's the problem in living at your part of Oz all costs you extra

10000 US to AU 14665 + west-cost exports US,1500 to east coast Oz Melb or Sydney, Now 10% GST but no stamp duty if over 30 years. Still do-able

What do you find in Australia under 20K these days?

Kerry

Maybe he's thinking of sending it down under, with dollar difference and freight he would break even, maybe even a little profit as well

Kerry

The block I'm re-building at the moment, all 8 are cast iron valve guides pressed in and then reamed to what ever valve stem size being used.

Kerry

.080" pistons are now available when once you could only get them in the high dome ones. Back in the day of the cast iron ones you would bore out to .120" + The thing to remember is the more you bore the thinner the wall and hotter the engine runs. The head gasket at the heat rings between 1&2- 3&4 ...

Kerry

Why go back to 6v? buy a 8v and be done with it, you wont be sorry in doing so.

Kerry

That point of being a left and right in that particular bow clamp, eliminates it being a Ford one then. Parts book shows only the one so must do both sides.

Kerry

I don't know about USA model's but yes, that bow saddle is a Ford part on Canadian overseas T's. part No 10068

Kerry

You blokes are seeing things that are just not there, it's a normal pour and the shims are still sitting on the block with some dirty oil marks as well, The oil swipes are cut a little rough but that bearing could be brought back to serviceable condition easily.

Kerry

That's from dirty oil, not changed often enough, and yes it would clean up alright, use wd40 and 320 wet and dry paper then about 1000 to finish. You remove stuff all Babbitt in cleaning it up and it doesn't need to be perfect.

Kerry

This is the very reason I tag the out side of the housing after a re-build, so the next owner knows what he's got.

Kerry

Wheel to rim bolt/nut.

Kerry

Sounds like we need to see photo's of this T

Kerry

Good one

Kerry

A nice dream to have but for todays world best to have a modern and the vintage for a playing with until you know every nut and bolt and all the problems that can see you sitting on the side of the hi-way'

Kerry

Yes either work, I think the screw driver ones are early 26, well that is what I have found on our Canadian T's. The bolt ones are a lot easier to wire.

Kerry

First off, not a good idea in thinking you will be cruising at 45mph in a T or 65 in an A. that will kill either real fast. As for air con, both are airy enough from opening windscreens, removable side curtains or wind down windows and fold down tops.

Kerry

On the engine photo, what an I looking at ? what looks like a flat piece of steel running from the back of the fan hub bolt down to or behind the oil cap.

Kerry

Glad to be of some help Jim, I'll charge you the same as all my T work and advice, a freebe

As a rule when I do re-builds I set the push rods with just a 3/4 turn from bottoming out and set the valve lash/clearance the old way of stem grinding to avoid this from happening.
Happy T'ing

Kerry

Had a 3 cylinder T once, good compression, turned out that the adjustable tappet had backed off, if it still has solid lifters then check that the cam still has a lobe.

Kerry

I'm not sure on the USA built radiators but Canadian had top and bottom spouts made from cast iron, that you will not solder with an iron, needs to be a naked flame. To do it right, the spout would need to be removed, cleaned, prep with the right acids and tinned correctly in order to get a sealing ...

Kerry

Chris, later stub axles have a flat spot either side to drift the bearing off,

if a early stub then start with a chisel, the seal runs on the shoulder on the bearing so it will come off with the bearing.

Kerry

Bought one the same to flip but "she who must be obeyed has fallen in love with it and now her favourite

Kerry

Yes you can.

Kerry

Yes there is a better way, for a start your T should have the filler plug 1-3/4" below the centre line which means since 1918 the oil is filled to the height of the filler plug. The 1-1/2" below the filler was pre 1918 except for the Canadian T's which started the lower plug in 1915.

Kerry

When you consider how far back clocks go, the know how for tooling doe's too. verniors and micrometers in the 17th century but the micrometer as we know it today was patent in 1899.

Kerry

Kerry

Just a reminder on why it's important to have oil holes in the pistons for the wrist pins.
Caught this engine, barely ran in, just in time. (Fitting a scat to it)

Kerry

Looks like you will have a problem with pistons, that's 108 thou over STD so you might be biting the bullet and do the lot on this block, new seats and cylinder sleeves and bring it back to using T parts.

Kerry

From Langs. part No 3052M Modern valve, size 1.543 head dia, and .342 stem, (.030 over size stem from std T block) any bigger valves and you could have head gasket problems. Agree with Dan, those seats will clean up. fitting new seat usually will warp the bore which wouldn't be a problem if you are ...

Kerry

Big brake drum, ok, easy fix, order the 3320/BW. That and 2 original washers should put you back in spec and clutch pack as normal.

Kerry

OK, if your happy that all is right with the bushings then it sounds like you have a mix of parts. That being an early clutch disc drum. Yes you can play with the thickness of the washers and I have even removed some off the drum before and even turned off the thrust flange off the early bush and ju...

Kerry

No, not standard for the T engine, rotator caps would have been used in a rebuild some time later in it's life.

Kerry

Maybe I should give some more detail, the main shaft has a fillet grind on it at the flange end, if the bush is not pressed in far enough on the brake drum at that end then the clearance at the clutch basket is compromised.

Kerry

You say a rebuild, so all original parts to this trans? if so the only reason for not enough clearance would be that the first bush, fly wheel end, on the brake drum is not pressed in far enough.

Kerry

Yea, it's like mineral salt with a use by date on the container, lucky it was dug up before it expired.

Kerry

I think it started life as a 15 or 16, I have it's twin even the same front fenders

Kerry

Got a spare 26/27 block and hogs? then bolt the 2 together and trace the bolt pattern to the plate and for the few that can't be got at lay a gasket on to find them. Myself. I wouldn't go through the trouble of making one for the few I check, just use the 26/27 block and hogs as is, a length of exha...

Kerry

A stock T engine doesn't like 3;1 much, have you tickled the engine some?

Kerry

At a quick glance to tell, the 27 had a head light bar and usually steel spoke wheels.

Kerry

They seem to turn up like that as well as scripted, Canadian stuff seems to be all over the place compared to the USA as they have better kept records. Even trying to work out when Canada started casting is controversial, 1919 was listed as so but we do have 1918 block with script and made in Canada...

Kerry

Bon-Ami won't solve Robert's problem, engine won't run

Kerry

Some period ads turned up some years ago for dealerships to up-date your brass T with black radiator/kits, so yes they can be.

Kerry

Assuming this Buick is still running cast iron pistons? the ring gap needs to be 1/2 of what is used on aluminium pistons, if to much you have a high blow by resulting in your low compression.

Kerry

I have 2 big drum Ruckstells, one of each tags.

Kerry

Ouch!
Another bad engine rebuild, rods around the wrong way and no oil holes in the pistons for the wrist pins

Kerry

A free start every time you "Stop & Go" function, on the Next generation Mazda has been in use for a several years now.

Kerry

Scott.
I don't believe in any reason to do so, never come across any thing violent in a engine free start. but to far advanced and back firing could be another story.

Kerry

Common would go to the coils.

Kerry

At my end of the world we might as well put our T's in hibernation

not because of the weather but grounded because of Corona! all to stay home, some poly's are saying could be for 6 months

Kerry

I've been twisting spanners for more than 50+ years and never seen one like that

neat tool.

Kerry

Les.
I don't like being picky but I hate seeing things that can give a heap of grief down the track, your rods are around the wrong way and no oil holes in the pistons for the wrist pins.

Kerry

My first concern wouldn't be the springs, it would be on how old are the NOS Scandinavian bands. They rot with age.

Kerry

As said, a casting date but the block might not be a Ford factory one? it has no logo on the side. It's around the time that Canada started pouring their own blocks so it does raise a question was the first several months a blank cast?

Kerry

I've fitted a few at owners request over the years with no problems so far with the exception of the last rebuild to come in with one. Now in saying that it had a early crankshaft in it that was ground .060" mains and big,ends. we know that that crank would have been in it for some 20 years before i...

Kerry

Leo,
I can't comment on other mold builds and designs but the likes of Gene Frence's are built with bleed holes for the air to escape when pouring.

Kerry

Jacolb.
I've been pouring Babbitt for many years and learnt a long time ago that using a shim between the mold, cap, block and rods saves a lot of redo's for a perfect pour.

Kerry

The way I read it Harold, that's what Dan is referring to, the inner bearings, no washers on the outer ones.

Kerry

Bob,
As far as your problem go's it may not be the water pump, T's with out a pump will spit the belt off if either or both the crank and fan pully's are worn. The vendors sell a bolt on guide to help this from happening.

Kerry

Taking the spring off the pressure plate is work that is not needed, 2 other ways to remove the plate are, back off the 3 finger screws then remove the plate or just evenly back off the bolts that hold the plate to remove.

Kerry

Yea, it is what it is, we could pick sh't out of it for authenticity like the timing gears, No 2 and 3 don't make TDC when rotating, no oil holes on the bearings, the high valve seating and the rods in the wrong way and the list go's on, but fun to watch hey!

Kerry

Compression test?
Also unless things have changed, haven't been able to buy cam bearings for a while, is someone doing them again?

Kerry

To even consider a radial tire on a T and to avoid premature wear, one would need to bend crap out of the front axle, every thing needs to be zero, toe, camber and caster.

Kerry

It gets in everything, can block the oil holes in the mains and even get all tangled up in the oil rings.

Kerry

Sounds like the builder of the uni's has slipped back into a mistake that was made several years ago, or it's old stock from that time,
instead of .002" undersize clearance, they had .002" oversize, jamming the works up

Kerry

Page 95, 373 (d)

Kerry

The fly wheel and trans will come off the crank with those 4 bolts removed, the fly wheel to crank will still be on 2 dowels so rock and if need be tap the whole lot off. It's heavy as a whole so watch your fingers and toes

Search found 390 matches