MTFCA Forum

I would let you borrow the patterns I made for my Hi-viz side curtains if you or someone you know has an upholstery machine.

: ^ )

Keith

A friend gave me this.
It is marked:

MFG BY STEWART WARNER CORP
ALEMITE DIVISION MADE IN USA

It has a Zerk fitting and the pointy end swivels on the barrel end.

Anyone familiar with this?

: ^ )

Nice work!

Atta boy!
A little knowledge is a good thing.
A lot of knowledge is even better!

: ^ )

Round diver bell, single rivet, holes around the chimney: late 1915-1917.

Information sent.

The engine may be 1926-1927. The pedal spacing is different. Post a pic...

The coil on the right is an aftermarket KW coil. GENUINE is visible just above the coil box. I have found the later KW reproduction coils have rather tall and non-copper plated hardware.

: ^ )

Alan,
An upholstery friend who helped me with my 1911 upholstery told me that, "within 1/4" is acceptable."

You will always be your own worst critic.
Keith

Scott,
The roll up rear curtain was used through 1914.
When having a new top made, sometimes a roll up rear curtain is available for later cars. Although not "correct" a roll up rear curtain makes hot summer time touring more comfortable with flo-thu ventilation.

Your car. Your choice.

: ^ )

Keith

Awesome!

I wonder what hood length he envisioned?

How would the brake handle be moved back?

Allan,
Been there, done that. Yes, it is doable. Patience, Grasshopper.

Jerry,
With the three-wrench tappets, is there a need to grind down the lifter guides, or is there any special procedure for adjusting the spacing and locking the locknut?

: ^ )

This one was mounted on the Muncie that was in my wife's speedster.

: ^ )

The one 1914 coil I have is not imprinted.

I run Bosch Platinum 4003. FR9HP

Whatever you use, make sure the top unscrews.

I replaced the original nuts with some period-ish looking thumb nuts.

: ^ )

Keith

Two are 1913 with 1912 points.
Four are late 1911-1912.

In my experience I have found the early pans and timing covers have a narrower slot and the rope seal can't be forced into it. On my 1915 I used a "modern" one piece seal which worked great until I had to remove the timing gear cover...

The threaded connector at the throttle would indicate marine or stationary engine application. It's not for a Model T, but you knew that..

Bill, Message sent.

What carburetor is that?

High radiator, high cowl, and slanted windshield indicates late 1923 for the 1924 production through 1925.

That wheel needs new spokes. Either professional, or DIY.

What dates will this swap meet run?

For Sale: Early Fairbanks Hand Cranked Coil Tester in original unrestored condition. The magnets have been recharged, the meter was recalibrated by Bob Cascisa, and the meter mounting point shows a repair. This HCCT works perfectly! It is very heavy and awkward to move, so handles were fabricated an...

For half a century, members of the Rose City Model T Club have had access to Hand Cranked Coil Testers (HCCT) to tune up Model T coils. Nearly two decades ago, the club invested in a Strobo-Spark and it was a game changer. Today, the Electronically Cranked Coil Tester (ECCT) is available, which test...

Steve, Yes. The body number is stamped in the bottom of the passenger door in 1/2" numbers. Here is mine: 1911 foredoor body number 3 close.jpg The bottom was sanded down significantly. Fortunately, a correct size stamp was available to refresh it. 1911 body number under front door.jpg Do you know w...

Steve,
Those look like fore-doors for a Beaudette body. What is the number stamped on the underside?
Keith

Yes, straps on the side curtain only. No fasteners on the windshield.

Cars equipped with starter motors did not have sidelamps so the engineers had to come up with a way to attach the side curtains... so side curtain hook on the windshield were introduced.

Phillip,
For 1915 the only fasteners are the common sense fasteners on the bows and the body. There are no windshield fasteners for 1915.
I believe the post-1919 side through 1922 sidecurtains with windshield hooks would work if you install side curtain hooks.
Keith

Is it long enough to run from the tmer to coil box for a pre 1915 car?

Beautiful work!

Thanks for the pictures, Tom. I would speculate the picture of that fore-door T that Jason recently bought is a '12 near the time the one piece dash was introduced. Note the Murphy fastener near the "dip" for the side curtain. On my Novemberish '11 they were still below the fore-door, like on the ea...

My daughter lives in Tuttle and I will be visiting there for the next couple of days.

Um, a little more information???

That gap is pretty big. I'm not a Torpedo owner, but I'd measure the length of the front bow from the pivot to the leading edge on both (or more) cars. It might be the bow was not seated inti the top socket far enough.
Good luck!

: ^ )

Keith

Larry, I have a bracket.
I may have a horn button, or do you want a combination magneto horn headlight switch?
Keith

At one time my wife's speedster HAD a Ross steering box. Unfortunately it was removed before I bought the car for her. The Ross steering box had been replaced with a Vega steering box. It works fine. But unfortunately is not an era correct steering assembly.

My son Spencer went back 95 years ago and brought back this tree...

It is from the era, but not a stock Model T horn.

As long as your T is 6v and is wired for a battery horn, it would probably work just fine.

Only you can decide what is "appropriate" for your car.

: ^ )

You will only have to remove the front oil inlet and replace it with a bolt, then replace the magneto terminal with a stock "non-oiler" type.

I know for a fact the 2927 tongue lug style demountable transmission band will not fit through the inspection cover opening on an aluminum transmission cover.

That was a frustrating lesson to learn!

Trent,
I did not know that the Benson Research Center was not open. I have neen wanting to make a trip and had hopped to recruit you as a guide!
Keith

Howard,
Glad it all worked out!

Mike,
What a wonderful Thanksgiving treat!
Thank you!

: ^ )

Keith

Larry,
Why don't you reach out to the owners, Lee and Pam Doud, of Pine City NY, and ask them?
Keith

The wheels, axles and spring type indicate a post 1919 chassis. Looks great!

For the past 60 years, six antique car clubs in Portland, Oregon have held the "Always in April" Portland Swap Meet. I am pleased to announce that we will have it again April 10, 11 & 12, 2026! However, with online classifieds, T-bay, and various internet sales, our proceeds are currently only about...

I drove with cotton for my first 5-10 years and replaced lining 2 or 3 times. I was a newbie... Then used "hard" lining that chattered like crazy, but was super responsive. It was Asbestos, or Caterpillar lining... something really hard that was bonded to the band, for about 5 years until I had a ca...

Ron,
I dont know anything about coil point production.

Would it be feasible to put new tungsten on old coil points? I don't know of a single Model T owner who doesn't have a coffee can full of old points that are generally serviceable, but the tungsten is shot.

: ^ )

Keith

Toon,
That's a pretty clever mounting. No wires, and an under-the-hood utility light!

IIRC, the extended length of the threaded part would indicate they were intended for the post 1916 "high" head.

I would not hesitate to use them. If nothing else, they are a conversation piece.

Keith

Howard,
I'd have to count leaves in the springs.
Yvonne's speedster has a dropped front axle and bent rear spring for lowering. Drop by next time you are down south.

: ^ )

Keith

I've never seen Canada Champion X plugs before. Learned something new today.

I check the grease on my Anderson timer maybe once a year or so. I just use wheel bearing grease.

How do you measure ring gap?
Put the rings in the cylinder one at a time and check where the ends meet with a feeler gauge?

OUTSTANDING!!!

You are now an expert!

: ^ )

Good looking car.
Welcome to the affliction.

Howard,
True deep, dark Midnight blue is always beautiful with French grey pinstripe like a Torpedo or open roadster Maybe French grey on the wheels. If you want another contrast you could paint the fenders black.

: ^ )

Keith

Message sent

Allen, when I first saw the tape I had the same initial thought. Then he explained that is was for a guide only, as Rich pointed out. The stripe was not "taped off". He mixed the French Grey by eye and he did all the striping free hand with an itty bitty brush. He was a true craftsman and didn't cha...

That look like a 1920's ALF buried under a pile if stuff.

Any guesstimate when the sale will be?

Message sent

I'd spray it down with brake clean then touch up with glyptol.

Ames cloverleaf body?

: ^ )

Hershey is on my bucket list...

Here are some pinstripe disasters!

If you do this, I will not be able to be your friend...

A few more pinstripe pics of '12 commercial roadster: 1912 commercial roadster body 3.jpg 1912 commercial roadster body 4.jpg 1912 Model T HH Klassen.jpg It looks like the only pinstripe is on the seat back, mother-in-law seat back, and on the hood. Is yours a one-piece dash or two-piece dash? : ^ )

By the time 1912 rolled around there was much less pinstriping than earlier years. It is a very, very thin pinstripe, about 1/16" not more than 3/32" located 3/4" away from the bead. (The photos make my stripe look wider than it is) My pinstriper used 3/4" masking tape or painters tape for a guide. ...

They were likely "flash" brass plated, like speedometer swivels and early gas and spark levers and 1915 quadrant. The flash plating quickly disappeared and rusted. If made of solid brass, the lever part would likely bend over time with use. Since the reproductions and not intended for use, they can ...

I had replaced the starting crank bushing on my 1915 a few years ago, but it creeps forward and has to be tapped back into place. I pulled it most of the way out and added a Dutch knurl to it. I'll mix up a little JB weld to the outside of the bushing before pulling it back in. 20251008_130547.jpg :...

That ring gear is toast.
Were both the starter gear and ring gear new when you put them in?

Beautiful!

The Oct 1911 Ford Times says the 1912 town car comes with detachable fore-doors.

The Ford script on the 1913 hubcaps look like the same size and location as the 1912 hubcap. Hubcaps restored 3.jpg These were photographed before the black oxide background was completed. Here is a 1912-1913 comparison: 20251006_164909.jpg The encyclopedia says this hubcap appeard in blueprints Jul...

Pretty cars, Charlie.
Do you have the missing fore-doors for your '12?
Keith

There is no James McNeal in the 2018-2019 HCCA roster or in the current HCCA database.

Jim,
Yes. That is the type of shift lever I am looking for.
Would you be interested in a swap? Or selling?
-Keith

Still looking...

Darel,
I was looking at the brass plated side lamp brackets. I thought thatcwas Torpedo...
Keith

Eric,
IIRC, the lower compression high head was in response to the low quality, lower octane gasoline that was available at the time.
Keith

In picture 3, the five big boys behind the skinny tree, are in/on a Torpedo.

Did Bruce McCalley ever do any Vintage Ford articles on Town Cars? I'll have to dig through my VFCD library.
I wonder if there were any town car articles in the MTFCI Model T Times?

Is he in the HCCA roster?

Message sent.
We are touring with the Portland Regional Group HCCA today.

: ^ )

Ricky, Since towncars, like delivery cars were not in as high of demand as a touring car, it was not uncommon to have an earlier body on a later chassis. This would account for some 1912s to have fore-doors and others open front. I dont know if the fore-doors on the town cars were called removable l...

I'd replace the valves, put in adjustable lifters, but add a "new" cam. I have a reground cam that has Chaffin's "touring grind" and have been pleased with the results in my 1915 and my 1919.

YMMV

Keith

Haydon, Beautiful looking paint job. Is it black? Since you are bown under and the car is right hsns drive, I presume the body was made by Wm. Gray & Sons. I'm curious; What is the body number? It will be stamped into the wood on the seat riser in front of the gas tank cover, and on the underside of...

For you coil box, I'd suggest replacing the wood with either new wood or plastic, which eliminates the possibility of carbon tracking.

1915-1916.

Austin-
How are you feeling?
Any updates about your car and insurance?
Keith

Does the no slit box have round mounting holes or square holes?

Round bolt with slot goes on the inside with springs. The nut goes on the outside along with the loop for top hook and cotter pin.

Sometimes windshield hinge parts get mis-matched.

Allan,
The coil box on my non-starter 1919 has the switch on front and the center support.
: ^ )
Keith

The center strip was added about 1918.
If the mounting holes are round the coil box is 1915-1916.
Square holes are 1917-1922.

"Ish"

The coilbox with Corbin "lunch box" type latches are from 1913, as the Heinze coils in the box. The Upside down switch is KW.
The second photo is a different coil box

David-
Here is your opportunity to own you very own!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/317237024859?i ... rNWP&pfm=0

: ^ )
Keith

I only have one like this and always wondered why these holes were here.

20250903_172543.jpg

Now I know...

Screenshot_20250903_172106_eBay.jpg

Screenshot_20250903_172118_eBay.jpg

What type of latch goes here?

: ^ )
Keith

I only have one like this and always wondered why these holes were here.

Now I know...

What type of latch goes here?

: ^ )
Keith

I have a 12v motorcycle battery tucked into the V shaped tool compartment next to the gas tank on my 1915.

: ^ )

Keith

The C clamp looks like it would be easy to fabricate.

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