MTFCA Forum

Very generous Bob! You might see about adding it here; http://cimorelli.com/mtdl/default.htm
Hopefully that site will be around for many more years. I might be wrong but think the Model T Ford Club Internation might have something to do with keeping it alive.

KWTownsend wrote: ↑
Mon Aug 11, 2025 7:15 pm
Mark,
In about 1996, RCMTC dues went from $7 to $10.
It almost started a riot...

LOL before my time!

Because of income from being one of the clubs putting on the Portland (Oregon) Swap Meet our dues are the same as they have been from the beginning (1962), $10 a year for family or individual membership.
Except for a few members, our newsletter is now online.

The Michelin Man of course.

DanTreace wrote: ↑
Fri Aug 01, 2025 11:14 am
Brent

No tricks just stripes!

You could have plain or fancy, care of Sears,Roebuck and Co.

IMG_9545.jpeg

I have seen other period advertising that show the heavy cotton duct covers with stripes.

The main bolts are about 80 foot pounds and they are a lot smaller than the axle threads. 75# in my opinion is too little.

I go a little higher, 90 then to next slot to line up the hole. Never back off on a cottered nut. Check a couple of times after that after the car has been driven. More often than not you will need to re-torque the nut. If the next slot is way off, try a different nut or sand a bit off the bottom. S...

Gordon C wrote: ↑
Fri Jul 25, 2025 10:10 am
I've been having trouble too

What kind of trouble?

In the header click on HOME. Click on FORUM, in the drop down click on CLASSIFIEDS.
viewforum.php?f=5

Well guess it is time for a short update. While the generator looks good inside and after cleaning/painting put the casting that holds the distributor on and check it for output on my KRW test stand. That part checks out. The distributor: The cam can be adjusted to any position, like a Model A but i...

I installed a bushing at the bottom end of a Bosch 600 distributor. Sorry no photos. Chucked it up in the 4 jaw held at the top end where the body mounts. Got it centered the best I could. Using the back gear for all operations wanted it to go slow, drilled it to just under 1/2 inch. Mounted a 1/2 s...

Thank you John, I will have to try that.

I am running into the same issue with the last couple of generators I worked on. They work but only am estimating the null point. Can't get them to rotate in the reverse direction but will motor fine clockwise but seem to be fighting going that direction so just adjusted till they seem to motor some...

You need to lift the 3rd brush to set the null point. Then drop it down and set the output.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/it ... 314832414/?

1915 thru early 1925, the wood would be pretty much the same.

We used the VHT caliper/drum paint.

Plan B might be to place a wanted ad on the Horseless Carriage Club website. You don't have to be a member to do so. In fact you might look at the listings, some of the off types of tires have been posted there.
https://hcca.org/resources/classified/

You might try listing them on the HCCA website.
https://hcca.org/resources/classified/

Over to the left, first photo, like the bike in the back of the truck. Maybe belong to the kid running messages from the telegraph office.

The graphite/enamel/mineral spirits mix does harden and provides great slickness between the leafs. After applying, assemble the leafs together and tighten, then clean off any mix on the outside edges, tops and bottoms of the assembled springs with mineral spirits and paint with a gloss black paint...

The tubes I have run into are smaller in diameter then they should be so I will continue to use flaps on the clinchers. They help keep the tube in the tire when mounting.

I agree with Allan, an 1/8 is hardly anything esp at the speeds most people drive at.

23ford wrote: ↑
Sat Jul 05, 2025 11:50 pm
after painting grease between the leaves

While painting with the graphite enamel mix could be considered painting, you should not just used paint between the leaves. Paint does not allow the leaves to slide like they need to even with grease.

There are work arounds that eliminate that spacer by making your own equalizer. I have made a couple like shown in the link. Instead of the round rod with brake levers attached at each end, I just used flat bar with ends folded down. These allow the U part to be extended down to give more clearance ...

George you should add the steel spoke part to the title. click on the pencil thing and you can edit title and post.

I do the same as James but only paint one rubbing surface not both and use black enamel paint which is what Ford used.

3/8 tall head 1/4x20 bolts: Those are the same ones that mount the firewall to the body mounting brackets.

Try typing the size you want in the search box. They would be called flat head rivet. Don't get stainless steel. I would have to check the hole size so just did a quick search of 3/16 diameter flathead rivet and good number of listings. I am working on a 1925 too but am not going down that far, just...

Do a search of "mtfca: Seng steering wheel". You should find posts made here and other places with many images. I just did and got a lot of returns some which show the back side of the steering wheel. https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=20630 There are links in that post with more photos. S...

Got it on Saturday. Looks really good inside even the distributor gears had good grease in the housing. The gear on the gen. shaft is 4 tooth and the one on the distributor is 12 so 3:1, with the generator gear being the same count as stock. I put it on the KRW test stand and out of the box was char...

Unless already personally known? ALL brass era Ts are suspect for authenticity until at least somewhat verified by someone really familiar with the hundreds of minute detail pieces. Few, if any, are a hundred percent correct. Most, of any brass era year, are more fake than authentic. While a 1914, ...

varmint wrote: ↑
Tue Jun 24, 2025 1:43 pm
Tom, some headlights use the crossbar, others do not.

When Ford introduced the cross bar, both lamps were semantically identical. Early 1926 did not have a crossbar and it was never supplied by Ford. Those lamps had the short post and mounting flange.

From the outside yes, but how about underneath, that is what Steve is talking about. Knowing all the little bits and pieces that are correct for the year. If you are looking for a 1910 "style car" that is one thing, but a correct 1910 is another. They are not all the same under the hood. Friend boug...

Scheduled delivery is Saturday but could be early next week so should know more next week.

McMaster Carr sells this brake lining in assorted thicknesses & widths. You can get exactly what you need without having to trim the width. I prefer the woven lining on RM brakes over the solid, hard, chalky grey material they come with today. Besides being woven, you can get it with brass wire wov...

Jarvis Erickson up in Lynnwood Washington deal exclusive with Mercury bodied speedsters. I will send an email or message thru the board with his contact information. He might have a lead for you.

Not nylon, they are fiber gears. Not Model T or A (or B).

Even the new stuff sold by the foot is stiff as is the Model A woven lining. Guessing maybe 3/16 thick? How wide?

Many of these companies don't make one part at a time, they save orders till there are enough to warrant a run because of setup time.

If you found it all you have to do is open the window to view, then copy and paste the address from the search box.

Willy's Whippet too!

I have had one of the Ignitor distributor for years. It was missing the part the cam gear fits onto the camshaft and holds it in place. I will have to go look now and compare caps, but offhand I think it might be smaller. Dan thank you very much for posting those. Here is the one I have. The cap loo...

Yup would say it is the same thing, thank you Dan. If you get a chance could you send me a copy of that full page, the bottom is cut off the one in the post. I only have one copy of the Ford Owner and Dealer, May 1926 not shown in it, nore going thru Model T Ford Authentic Accessories (wish those we...

Might try a thread cleaning file, might work better than a die. Dies are ok for lightly booger thread but don't really follow the path if thread boogered at the beginning.

I used to do upholstery on collector cars. A seat like that would be easy to make. A plywood base, coil springs of the correct length, edge wire bent to the correct shape and cotton padding would be correct. The leather cover would be easy for any competent upholster to make. I made many seats from...

The March 1927 body book does not show that area for the 1926/27 4door bodies so can't be of any help.

A very Happy Birthday to you sir!
You are in a great group of people; My friend Bev turned 91, my Mom 92 and another friend Clay also turned 93 this year.

From the color of the housing for the distributor mount, I am thinking it might be aluminum (hope anyway). Yes, the Chevrolet around 1925 ish did have the distributor driven off the back of the generator and I think other brands did also. Not only were those Chevrolet housings pot metal, so was the ...

Might it go to a padlock?

At this point there are not a lot of options. Wood, Kevlar or find good original set of the cotton linings. Pick your price point. I have a set of Red Hook along with a couple of stray Kevlar, part of set wood (narrow band types) and one set 26/27 of the tar babies (saving those for a friend). These...

Does anyone know about this setup? I just won it on eBay. Not a lot of info in the listing.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/396768409883

Pretty sure on the link I posted, that is a hot air pickup not venting into the exhaust manifold.

Contact Snyders Antique Auto parts (T and A parts suppliers). They started in business making springs and still do, not just for T and As.

Or you could do this.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/405911762704

No Carnegie's this year?

Part of the problem could be the material used to make some of the gaskets is too hard so does not compress and fill the voids/irregularity's as one would like. Noticed that with the gasket for the float valve, make my own out of lead and have had less issues.

Are modern coils even still oil filled? I didn't think they still were. I have hung a few from the radiator support rod with no issues.

Darel maybe try posting on AACA in the What Is It section.

Isn't there a guy in the classifieds that sells replacement drain plugs for just this application?

Ash tray maybe?

Mel's daughter did make her presents known on the forum something like 20 years ago, nothing since. Do not recall everything, but she did have plans at the time to reprint the plans and sell them, but that went nowhere like the "other" plans that vanished. Not a hundred precent on this, but if copyw...

I discovered I have two nicely painted left hand headlights for my early ‘26. I also discovered the right hand headlight bucket hiding unpainted elsewhere in my shop. Didn't know that any of the 1926 headlights came in pairs, thought it was just one fits both? The 1928 catalog shows 1915-1926 eithe...

If you are running coils try and stay away from plugs that have an "R" (resister) in the number. These plugs do not seem to like the wild fluctuation of voltage esp if running off magneto.

uk2lax wrote: ↑
Sat Jun 07, 2025 4:47 pm
Did it sell?

he was online today June 9th, you might send him a message and ask he might not have seen the post.

https://studio.youtube.com/video/udkEFezOZ2s/edit

Didn't read all the post to see it this was posted. Worn cam gears can make a lot of clacking at low speeds and when hand cranking. The valve spring pressure can rotate the cam gear via the lifter making a click between the cam gear and the crank gear.

Last night when I pulled mine (not glued together) most of the oil poured out the sides and down the hogs head. Luckly I had the drain pan in the right place and caught most of it. I went with 3 places and a little bigger then shown in the above photo, 3/32. Looking at the one in above, think it is ...

LOL I posted on both of those! Thanks for pulling that info.

Has anyone added a drain hole at the bottom of the lower plate, so you don't dump so much oil when you take it off? If so, what size did you use? While not a huge amount, it still dumps a lot of oil when you take if off. As most know, a little oil goes a long way making a mess!

I upload any video onto YouTube that I want to post.

Not Ford Model T. You could try posting here: https://forums.aaca.org/forum/66-what-is-it/

Might change your title to: Wanted side light bracket closed car or TT style. Are you going to use it to mount a mirror?

South Park Zephyr wrote: ↑
Sun Jun 01, 2025 7:22 pm
Are these the new ones, or originals?

New ones. Look to be the 1926-27 style.

I didn't find anything on YouTube in a quick search, didn't it come with instructions? Guess if you have questions you could ask them or here on the forum. Should install the same way as the original. Do a search using just Warford, such as: MTFCA; Warford.

If you are looking to ship, might want to do some research on ways to ship. If it can be shipped it would have to go ground hazardous esp if 1/2 full.

September of 1913 reptesents the begining of the 1914 "model" year. Hence an instuction book / manual with a September, 1913 print date, would have been supplied with 1914 "model" automobiles. That same style of Instruction Book was published months before Sept. 1913 in May so unless the 1914 model...

The top one was only sold as an aftermarket item, never supplied by Ford as factory item. There were several different versions of the bar sold to support the fenders before Ford started suppling them later in 1926.

Check with Langs or KimDobbins. If you haven't, put an ad in the classifieds.

I am mounting mine on the old starter switch mount and the momentary contact switch will be on the firewall.

It was the spindle arms, well at least one of them. Swapped them both out and was able to get more or less correct toe in. Still have to address the drag link but that is for another day.

Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑
Wed May 21, 2025 10:52 am
Whatever other problems you may have, you certainly seem to have some bent spindle arm issues, as you suspected. The 3/8" difference is one thing, but at that point, you can't count on either spindle arm being correct.

Thanks, I will need to do more checking on the spindle arms.

After looking at the two types, the fixed end ball vrs the adjustable end ball: Should not have any bearing on the toe in. That would be more an issue with having the correct drag link to match the style of tie rod. The drag link is the correct length for the year but would explain why the pitman ar...

The Ford style one I am putting on, the style with the push button on the bottom (like the Texas T diagram), the terminal that goes to the switch: The wire goes from the terminal to the switch, the other side of the switch is grounded to the chassis. I am adding a keyed lock on the grounded side. Be...

The copy of the "Instruction Book" I have, while a reprint from 1954, has Sixth Edition, September 1913 on the inside page. Tony's site shows one from May of 1913 so would have been a 1913 book. https://cimorelli.com/mtdl/1913/1913instmay.pdf

No, mother-in-law body, straight axle. The tie rod is the later style with the ball at the adjust end. The spindle arms are the straight type for over the axle wishbone. I will have to check on the differences between the two styles of tie rods. I have one with the ball at the fixed end but the thre...

I don't see the mention of several other things such as the weave and thickness of the belting. Most of the woven belting is going to be too thin and a loose weave.

Helping a guy that has a 1912 put together car with a lot of incorrect parts. Ran out of threads on the tie rod and still have too much toe in, over 1/2". The tie rod is 46-3/4 which from what I can find is correct. Thinking might have bent spindle arm. I noticed an approx. 3/8" difference when meas...

The instruction book has a lot less information than the Ford Manual. The instruction book pretty much just tells you how things work, the Ford Manual goes into a lot more detail with question and answers to basic running the car questions.

Maybe more than you might want to know: https://www.gasenginemagazine.com/equipment/magneto-charger-zmrz20amzhur/ Part way through the post it talks about Dave Gingery's design, if you can find a copy of his book (out of print) you would be good to go (except material cost :o ). Here is still more i...

Don't recall seeing that bushing on other setups? Otherwise, take the other side apart and make a trip to ACE or other hardware store and match the spring up and other missing nuts and washers as needed. The adjusting nut might be a little harder but longer type nut with bevels ground would work lik...

The frame to firewall mounts are different between the wood a steel. If you are replacing the wood with steel, you need to add spacers between the mounts and firewall. The outer radiator mounting caps were used or spacers about that thickness. If you are going back to wood, you will need to find the...

What parts went missing? Maybe someone can offer suggestions on work arounds.

Please reask your question on the general forum. This section is for getting help with the page it self.

Easiest visual clue is the location of the focus screw. The 1915/16 maybe part of 17(?) it was located at 12 0-clock over the bulb holder. After that it was at the 9 o-clock. 1915 up to the indroduction of the fluted lens, the rim would have the narrow tabs to hold the round glass.

I have come to the conclusion that it is more than likely worn pins. I added the two more disks to the stack to bring the pins out. That will bring the height of the stack a little over the 1-1/8", but it has to be what it is. Next step is bore the 4th main and get the pan put back on then on to fin...

You may have a pressure ring that was modified to use with a watts clutch. Installing a watts clutch required that you shorten the pins. The stock clutch pack should be 1.125" thick. If it measures too thin, you can add another large plate to the top or bottom of the stack. If that's still not enou...

Thanks for the offer Steve, but I drilled the holes out to accept the earlier disk ring. Just went out to do some more checking, the ring works fine, the pins will stick out as they should after I removed the clutch spring pressure from the fingers, no interference because of the larger outer diamet...

The Ford Model A transmission has a vent hole on the shift tower.

Correct number 13 and 12 (but I am going to pull back out and recount), original disks, yes.

John;
Sunday AM went out and did some more checking. I didn't think it was relevent but am using a 1925 ring in the 26/27 brake drum/drive plate assembly.
See post below for more updates...

Should the pins stick through the drive plate? Right now, with the correct number of clutch disks the pins are just below the surface of the drive plate. Guessing there might be some wear so am thinking of adding a large and small disk to bring those pins up higher.

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