MTFCA Forum

many call them dog leg.

You have it routed in the correct location but might be hitting the water pipe. Maybe reshape it and reset the timing as needed.

I sent Keith a heads up.

If you don't use adjustable lifters, you have to set the valve clearance by grinding some length off of the valve stem, (and not by just holding the stem in your hand and using a bench grinder) . You can't just drop in new valves and expect the correct clearance. Having the cupped lifters, as you d...

Depending on how steady your hand is, it should. BUT! It would be helped by a plug that is installed in the valve seat hole and held in place with a clamp. I would after reaming the holes, recut the seat and make sure the valve seats 360.

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑
Sat Sep 20, 2025 1:13 pm
The low head would require shorter head bolts. Weren't the earlier head bolts smaller than the later ones?

Only very early like 1909/09 (3/8"?) then were standardized to 7/16". Length was changed when the high head came out.

Well there is a way, sounds a bit funky but it would be worth a try. Plug the drain holes in the valve chamber make sure all the trans cover is in place and tight. Now hook your shop vac up to the oil fill hole and seal around it. Using a more liquid type of sealer such as Indian Head gasket shellac...

For the rollers you want ones that do not have loose cages and have a roller diameter of .498 to .500 at both ends. Some of the replacement sleeves are a little thicker so you could get by with a bit smaller on the roller diameter, but only maybe .001-.002 smaller. The sleeves should be smooth witho...

1919 to 1927 car or truck are the same.

When I click on that link it shows no longer available but this one shows it still available. Proceed with caution.
https://www.facebook.com/commerce/listi ... attachment
The guy selling it has been on Facebook for a while so that is a plus.

Hamish, you might want to say which parts you are interested in.

This is a duplicate post. The other one has posts on it with suggestions.

Or the new battery is bad, not unheard of. Get it tested.

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑
Mon Sep 08, 2025 7:39 pm
There isn't much to positively hold the sides of the shell in alignment.

Actually on the high hood shells there are, tabs were added to the radiator to mount the shell to.

RE the only use for standard. The KRW was made to only do standard but some, me included on mine and the frame/boring bar I bought earlier this spring, remove the cutters and add setscrews so the cutting depth can be adjusted.

"I might very well be DEAD, and that item will STILL be popping up on KRW Tool watchlists. I can see it EVENTUALLY, in the year 2345 AD, as being recognized for being the OLDEST CONTINUALLY LISTED ITEM since EBAY opened their doors." It is still being listed! LOL I know which one you are talking abo...

Maybe use the edit and remove the 2ed photo.

Pep C Strebeck wrote: ↑
Sat Sep 06, 2025 11:42 pm
Late Ford flathead V-8 sleeve install/puller kit. Yes Ford, depends on your definition vintage though.

Vintage would be considered over 50 years old, so I would say vintage with room to spare.

Wonder if this is something Chaffins to do for customers. I was going to contact them about installing a tube in a Ruckstell housing but never got around to it.

Not aware of Jaxon making wood 21" wheels for Chevrolet just the 21" disk wheels. Chevrolet use the same 21" wood wheel make as Ford. Jaxon would have their name on the rim clamps. Would not be the first time Chevrolet wheels were mounted on Ford hubs.
Wayne may be right on the aftermarket thing.

Maybe: By 1928 Ford was into building the Model A and to reduce the number of variations, picked the one that would fit the most "cars" on the road and would "work" for all years as replacements after original stock was used up.

I have a few but really like the 3620 head/sparkplug wrench.

I believe that most or all of the Canadian built 26-27 cars used these Kelsey wheels. I know that is what is on my 27 Touring. I have had to repair the "loops" for the lock pin on some of my rims and would love to get my hands on one of these Kelsey tools. The instruction booklet would be a bonus. ...

Same casting as my Eisemann front mount, including the provisions for use on both style engines.

and thanks Dan for posting those photos.

While I don't collect tools except, except my collection seems to grow. I don't display them; they are in my "T" repair toolboxes and use them.

Herb you might try asking here;
https://www.smokstak.com/forum/forums/c ... ivery.156/

or

https://www.smokstak.com/forum/forums/a ... motors.38/

Think it would be more likely that a Ford dealer would be showing Z tools or maybe KRW not Walden. I think Walden would have been sold by non Ford parts dealers or hardware stores.

http://alloy-artifacts.org/walden-worcester.html
https://archive.org/details/WaldenWorcesterWrenches1924

In case anyone is wondering, the two straps go from the cross bar to the transmission cover bolts to stabilize the cross shaft.

I would stick the rear end in first. Going to give you a more stable platform to work with even with one wheel off the ground.

Thanks Dan and Larry. Looking the top photo I got the impression that was how they were made original, a one piece casting.

Why not have them cast like the originals, with the inner brake drum as part of the casting or is that your plan?

Checked http://cimorelli.com/mtdl/default.htm but didn't see anything.

When I made a donation to the Go Fund Me page I didn't know I would be getting updates which is nice. Got this one this AM. Erin posted a new update to Supporting the Hotte Family: A Call to Community Update: Matt is HOME! We are overjoyed to share that on August 19, Matt was discharged from the hos...

yes I do Erin posted a new update to Supporting the Hotte Family: A Call to Community The past few days have brought significant changes for the Hotte family. On Tuesday, Matt underwent pelvic surgery, and the doctors are pleased with how it went. Wednesday brought another major milestone: Matt was ...

Unless it is folded down, not having a backrest for the passenger would be very uncomfortable for long drives. Even adding that backrest would go a long way in passenger comfort.

Don't know but that is pretty cool!

RajoRacer wrote: ↑
Tue Aug 19, 2025 1:07 pm
It's not a motometer, Dan. Williamson's is in Arkansas.

That is what I am thinking. One of the type that mounts in the car on the steering column.

You might be able to replace the end yourself. What I recall reading was to chill (dry ice or liquid nitrogen maybe) the bulb end of the donner part from another temp gauge, so the gas pulls back into the bulb part. Cut the line and using a sleeve solder the two tubes together. While can't tell you ...

https://antiquetmotorsports.com/

Very generous Bob! You might see about adding it here; http://cimorelli.com/mtdl/default.htm
Hopefully that site will be around for many more years. I might be wrong but think the Model T Ford Club Internation might have something to do with keeping it alive.

KWTownsend wrote: ↑
Mon Aug 11, 2025 7:15 pm
Mark,
In about 1996, RCMTC dues went from $7 to $10.
It almost started a riot...

LOL before my time!

Because of income from being one of the clubs putting on the Portland (Oregon) Swap Meet our dues are the same as they have been from the beginning (1962), $10 a year for family or individual membership.
Except for a few members, our newsletter is now online.

The Michelin Man of course.

DanTreace wrote: ↑
Fri Aug 01, 2025 11:14 am
Brent

No tricks just stripes!

You could have plain or fancy, care of Sears,Roebuck and Co.

IMG_9545.jpeg

I have seen other period advertising that show the heavy cotton duct covers with stripes.

The main bolts are about 80 foot pounds and they are a lot smaller than the axle threads. 75# in my opinion is too little.

I go a little higher, 90 then to next slot to line up the hole. Never back off on a cottered nut. Check a couple of times after that after the car has been driven. More often than not you will need to re-torque the nut. If the next slot is way off, try a different nut or sand a bit off the bottom. S...

Gordon C wrote: ↑
Fri Jul 25, 2025 10:10 am
I've been having trouble too

What kind of trouble?

In the header click on HOME. Click on FORUM, in the drop down click on CLASSIFIEDS.
viewforum.php?f=5

Well guess it is time for a short update. While the generator looks good inside and after cleaning/painting put the casting that holds the distributor on and check it for output on my KRW test stand. That part checks out. The distributor: The cam can be adjusted to any position, like a Model A but i...

I installed a bushing at the bottom end of a Bosch 600 distributor. Sorry no photos. Chucked it up in the 4 jaw held at the top end where the body mounts. Got it centered the best I could. Using the back gear for all operations wanted it to go slow, drilled it to just under 1/2 inch. Mounted a 1/2 s...

Thank you John, I will have to try that.

I am running into the same issue with the last couple of generators I worked on. They work but only am estimating the null point. Can't get them to rotate in the reverse direction but will motor fine clockwise but seem to be fighting going that direction so just adjusted till they seem to motor some...

You need to lift the 3rd brush to set the null point. Then drop it down and set the output.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/it ... 314832414/?

1915 thru early 1925, the wood would be pretty much the same.

We used the VHT caliper/drum paint.

Plan B might be to place a wanted ad on the Horseless Carriage Club website. You don't have to be a member to do so. In fact you might look at the listings, some of the off types of tires have been posted there.
https://hcca.org/resources/classified/

You might try listing them on the HCCA website.
https://hcca.org/resources/classified/

Over to the left, first photo, like the bike in the back of the truck. Maybe belong to the kid running messages from the telegraph office.

The graphite/enamel/mineral spirits mix does harden and provides great slickness between the leafs. After applying, assemble the leafs together and tighten, then clean off any mix on the outside edges, tops and bottoms of the assembled springs with mineral spirits and paint with a gloss black paint...

The tubes I have run into are smaller in diameter then they should be so I will continue to use flaps on the clinchers. They help keep the tube in the tire when mounting.

I agree with Allan, an 1/8 is hardly anything esp at the speeds most people drive at.

23ford wrote: ↑
Sat Jul 05, 2025 11:50 pm
after painting grease between the leaves

While painting with the graphite enamel mix could be considered painting, you should not just used paint between the leaves. Paint does not allow the leaves to slide like they need to even with grease.

There are work arounds that eliminate that spacer by making your own equalizer. I have made a couple like shown in the link. Instead of the round rod with brake levers attached at each end, I just used flat bar with ends folded down. These allow the U part to be extended down to give more clearance ...

George you should add the steel spoke part to the title. click on the pencil thing and you can edit title and post.

I do the same as James but only paint one rubbing surface not both and use black enamel paint which is what Ford used.

3/8 tall head 1/4x20 bolts: Those are the same ones that mount the firewall to the body mounting brackets.

Try typing the size you want in the search box. They would be called flat head rivet. Don't get stainless steel. I would have to check the hole size so just did a quick search of 3/16 diameter flathead rivet and good number of listings. I am working on a 1925 too but am not going down that far, just...

Do a search of "mtfca: Seng steering wheel". You should find posts made here and other places with many images. I just did and got a lot of returns some which show the back side of the steering wheel. https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=20630 There are links in that post with more photos. S...

Got it on Saturday. Looks really good inside even the distributor gears had good grease in the housing. The gear on the gen. shaft is 4 tooth and the one on the distributor is 12 so 3:1, with the generator gear being the same count as stock. I put it on the KRW test stand and out of the box was char...

Unless already personally known? ALL brass era Ts are suspect for authenticity until at least somewhat verified by someone really familiar with the hundreds of minute detail pieces. Few, if any, are a hundred percent correct. Most, of any brass era year, are more fake than authentic. While a 1914, ...

varmint wrote: ↑
Tue Jun 24, 2025 1:43 pm
Tom, some headlights use the crossbar, others do not.

When Ford introduced the cross bar, both lamps were semantically identical. Early 1926 did not have a crossbar and it was never supplied by Ford. Those lamps had the short post and mounting flange.

From the outside yes, but how about underneath, that is what Steve is talking about. Knowing all the little bits and pieces that are correct for the year. If you are looking for a 1910 "style car" that is one thing, but a correct 1910 is another. They are not all the same under the hood. Friend boug...

Scheduled delivery is Saturday but could be early next week so should know more next week.

McMaster Carr sells this brake lining in assorted thicknesses & widths. You can get exactly what you need without having to trim the width. I prefer the woven lining on RM brakes over the solid, hard, chalky grey material they come with today. Besides being woven, you can get it with brass wire wov...

Jarvis Erickson up in Lynnwood Washington deal exclusive with Mercury bodied speedsters. I will send an email or message thru the board with his contact information. He might have a lead for you.

Not nylon, they are fiber gears. Not Model T or A (or B).

Even the new stuff sold by the foot is stiff as is the Model A woven lining. Guessing maybe 3/16 thick? How wide?

Many of these companies don't make one part at a time, they save orders till there are enough to warrant a run because of setup time.

If you found it all you have to do is open the window to view, then copy and paste the address from the search box.

Willy's Whippet too!

I have had one of the Ignitor distributor for years. It was missing the part the cam gear fits onto the camshaft and holds it in place. I will have to go look now and compare caps, but offhand I think it might be smaller. Dan thank you very much for posting those. Here is the one I have. The cap loo...

Yup would say it is the same thing, thank you Dan. If you get a chance could you send me a copy of that full page, the bottom is cut off the one in the post. I only have one copy of the Ford Owner and Dealer, May 1926 not shown in it, nore going thru Model T Ford Authentic Accessories (wish those we...

Might try a thread cleaning file, might work better than a die. Dies are ok for lightly booger thread but don't really follow the path if thread boogered at the beginning.

I used to do upholstery on collector cars. A seat like that would be easy to make. A plywood base, coil springs of the correct length, edge wire bent to the correct shape and cotton padding would be correct. The leather cover would be easy for any competent upholster to make. I made many seats from...

The March 1927 body book does not show that area for the 1926/27 4door bodies so can't be of any help.

A very Happy Birthday to you sir!
You are in a great group of people; My friend Bev turned 91, my Mom 92 and another friend Clay also turned 93 this year.

From the color of the housing for the distributor mount, I am thinking it might be aluminum (hope anyway). Yes, the Chevrolet around 1925 ish did have the distributor driven off the back of the generator and I think other brands did also. Not only were those Chevrolet housings pot metal, so was the ...

Might it go to a padlock?

At this point there are not a lot of options. Wood, Kevlar or find good original set of the cotton linings. Pick your price point. I have a set of Red Hook along with a couple of stray Kevlar, part of set wood (narrow band types) and one set 26/27 of the tar babies (saving those for a friend). These...

Does anyone know about this setup? I just won it on eBay. Not a lot of info in the listing.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/396768409883

Pretty sure on the link I posted, that is a hot air pickup not venting into the exhaust manifold.

Contact Snyders Antique Auto parts (T and A parts suppliers). They started in business making springs and still do, not just for T and As.

Or you could do this.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/405911762704

No Carnegie's this year?

Part of the problem could be the material used to make some of the gaskets is too hard so does not compress and fill the voids/irregularity's as one would like. Noticed that with the gasket for the float valve, make my own out of lead and have had less issues.

Are modern coils even still oil filled? I didn't think they still were. I have hung a few from the radiator support rod with no issues.

Darel maybe try posting on AACA in the What Is It section.

Isn't there a guy in the classifieds that sells replacement drain plugs for just this application?

Ash tray maybe?

Mel's daughter did make her presents known on the forum something like 20 years ago, nothing since. Do not recall everything, but she did have plans at the time to reprint the plans and sell them, but that went nowhere like the "other" plans that vanished. Not a hundred precent on this, but if copyw...

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