MTFCA Forum

I bought a bunch of those at Hershey once just to get the tags.

You need help on identifying 1912 hubcaps!

I've never seen a 1915 that looks like a 1926!

Don Lang's sister was making them. I have a set on my car.

I use a end grain piece of wood for the punch.

Do you want to keep it all 1915?

Jarvis will be pleased.

Turn the horn around!

Nice looking car! I just sold one just like it for $1000 less.

The rear axle has nothing to do with the front axle.

Since the subject here is 1913 Runabout, I have and extremely original 1913 Runabout that I restored not long ago. Every piece of wood in this car was put in at the factory, except the firewall. I bought an exact copy from Jon Anderson not long ago, but have not installed it.

It's good to someone who cares!

Why are you reposting this?

I would want to know the size of the rollers before buying.

I use those on all my cars. They work very well and replace the 777 perfectly.

You need to be specific!

I've been driving my 25 pickup for years with the spare in the bed. I've had a restored running board tire carrier hanging in the garage for a long time, and finally decided to use it. It is the one pictured above. They even used a genuine Ford tire carrier in the middle, and have two straps that at...

They didn't have one, because they were still using non demountable wheels.

I've always had good luck finding 1915 timing gear covers. They still have the short filler spout and will accept the modern seal.

There are more 1915's in California than there should be! Most of them have been converted from later models.

Y&Z's Yesterdays Parts in Redlands,California. He makes all of my wiring, as I've been unhappy with the vendors offerings! He even figured out how to weave the Ford tags into the loom!

Years ago Trent sent me a list of the bolts that were included for the installation of the pickup bed. I still have it somewhere!

Jack didn't put those cams on, because he didn't know what the purpose of them is!

I posted this ages ago, so perhaps some have forgotten! An 888 valve stem easily replaces the 777, being 1/4" shorter. Same everything else. It may decrease the weight slightly. I'm using them in all of my cars.

I would say that running board is for a much later vehicle, perhaps the 1930's?

Those are Jack Sunderlin reproductions.

There is a fellow in the Model A club writing a book on Model A pickup beds. He contacted me about Model T pickup beds. He found some information I wasn't aware of, and I'm looking for facts, not opinions. He found data that says Ford made 33,795 pickup beds in 1925. To me that seems a little extrem...

I would like to hear from anyone in California that has a1925 Pickup registered in California. I just got my DMV registration and it's $174! That's
crazy for a 100 year old vehicle. Let me hear from you.

Where can I buy 30X3 l/2 Michelin tubes and tires in the United States? The only good thing about Blockley tubes is the thickness of the rubber. The valve stems are out to lunch! I've been buying rubber stems tubes for years and cutting off the rubber stem and putting the correct old stock metal ste...

It was all because of Steve Coniff's pickup, that I was able to see my very first 25 pickup. He helped me a lot during my learning years, and we became very good friends. He is missed. Kim will be a good caretaker for this car.

My point above is, if you are going to reproduce something, why not do it correctly, just like the original.

I believe the correct name is dust cap. The ones you have are not for a Ford.

Dan, did you have any problems cutting off the rubber stem on those Hartfords? I haven't tried it yet. I see you have an incorrect bridge washer. I wonder why that company can't make them as original?

For those with a late 1924-25, in Oct 1924 a diffuser was cast into the hogshead to help direct oil back down into the bands. I wonder how many know this? It is in the service bulletins.

If the repro sediment bulbs are so good, why don't they offer the part with the screen in it to us>

Ruckstell!

Forget it. The problem is usually the wiring. Rewire the whole thing, that means everything! An original 6v system is perfect.

I allowed myself two days this year thinking it would be as big as it used to be. For next year, I think I will leave L.A. at 5am and drive straight to Shafter. I'll spend whatever time is needed, and return to L.A. the same day saving me the motel expense.

Ron: I told you about the company that custom made my cables for me in Redlands. Y&Z's Yesterdays Parts. This isn't the print I know.

I've heard of two original delivery cars. One is owned by John Regan, but I don't recall the other. Is it possible there is an unrestored original?

Good stuff. That is what I've been using for years! Too bad we can't get Coker, and the rest of them to make that stuff. I dislike the new tubes with vulcanized brass valve stems. I prefer to use originals, and cut off the rubber valve stems, so I will have correct original hardware. I worked back t...

I think ignition switch would be a better idea?

I have a dog bone creeper. There was a guy about20 or more years ago selling them at Hershey. What makes them so nice is the wheels are about 6" dia. They have fenders? that cover the wheels, which makes the creeper look like a dog bone. When I attempt to get up, I push myself up onto a dog bone whi...

About 20 or 30 years ago, I bought a NOS keyboard for $500, loaded with keys. It seemed like a lot of money back then, but I think I made a good decision.

I have lined shoes on all of my cars. It's the only way to go.

This is the greatest collection of delivery car photos I've ever seen. A huge thankyou, and Happy Thanksgiving!

I believe that is a 1913?

Ford came out with the design that accepts a modern seal in 1915.

Yes John, getting off a creeper at 82 can be a challenge!

I can't imagine you posting spam!

I'm sure many of you can relate to this, but I have one car in particular that this is meaningful. Why?. because I built this car myself over a period of seven years. The moment is laying on a creeper and reminiscing where I bought every single nut and bolt, not just any nut and bolt, but genuine Fo...

Me too! I'd like to have one.

My very first Model T was a 1926 touring. It had demountable 30 X 3 1/2 all the way around. What was really interesting on that car, was it had every genuine Ford accessory available on it.

Why would anyone paint a steering wheel red?

Don't do it! A good 6 volt system is perfect. The problem us usually the wiring. Replace every single wire with new wire, and you will like it.

Replace every single wire on your car. You will be amazed.

I received more information from Trent. You could get your new car with any combination that was available at the time. I could be wrong, but I assume most vehicles sold without starters, and demountable wheels were TT trucks.

Someone mentioned top saddles. I believe Ford ceased putting top saddles on cars around 1922 or 23, and put hard rubber plugs in the holes. I assume by that time the majority of Ford owners didn't put their tops down much, and maybe that is why that happened, but the real reason, I believe, it enabl...

I would tape off the area for the inner bearing race before sandblasting.

I built my 25 pickup from parts,, over 7 years. I also made sure the nuts and bolts were all period correct for the car.

I assume the 1925 frames had the holes drilled for the battery carrier, so it would be easy to install one. However, two of the holes had the carrier riveted in, and the remaining hole was for the ground strap. from the factory.

The inexpensive Ford models in the 1920's were sold without demountable wheels and starter and generators. How many of these exist today? An example is on the back cover of the current Model T Times. It has 30X3 non demountable wheels in front, and 30X3 1/2 non demountable wheels in the back. If you...

On the back cover of the current Model T Times, is probably the rarest 1925 Ford in existence. I most likely was sold new as a non starter model. If you look through the L R spokes, it appears there is a battery. I have only seen one example of a 1925 non starter car in 60 years in this hobby. Note ...

You need to be more specific. What brand?

It's really good to see someone calling splash shields by the proper name!

Since when did you become interested in correct Model T's?

Front or rear?

To me, a 13-14 is a sort of a U, but flat on the top and sides. The sides have a very slight U configuration on the edges.

I noticed the drain valve on this carburetor. It appears to be the same as the ones that were available several years ago. Wouldn't it be nice if a knowledgeable person could make those again.

I have a list that Trent found for me that gives all the parts required to install a factory pickup bed on a car. I wish I could put my hands on it!

I recently sold an unrestored 1914 touring for less than I paid for it.

Wouldn't be without one. I have a well used edition in my garage.

The correct 25 pickup fender irons have been reproduced. Contact Gator Gould. He used an original from me to make them.

I don't think Ford used that style.

I'm with Steve. I have a half dozen old stock Scandanavia band linings, which should last me the rest of my life!

I just looked at an original sign I have, and it has holes for screws. This one does not. I'd say someone spent a lot of time making a fake sign.

That article on the Heinze coils is the only article that has made any sense to me in years! Keep it up!

Since when is there a Ruckstell low? You are either in Ruckstell or you are not! Now if you are in Ruckstell, and low pedal, then you are in Ruckstell low.

I have a late '25 with that setup. All genuine Ford parts. Never had a problem.

I loved that video. Yes, Ruckstell's are a great addition to a Model T. I've got them in all of my Model T's.

Why not build a real 1925 pickup? That is the year Ford built the first ones. They made a few prototypes in 1924, but they were first introduced in March of 1925. I built mine from scratch as a retirement project in 2003. It took me seven years to do the restoration using authentic genuine Ford part...

It appears the rails were replaced, and when they did that they didn't redrill the holes correctly?

October 1924 Ford Service Bulletin Page 76, shows the new rib, or oil deflector cast into the transmission cover. I recently bought an earlier version transmission cover, by mistake, relying on another persons judgement.

Are you sure it's called a housing? I thought it was a cover?

Some were in block letters too.

Some people just like to be critical! I need to know if anyone has a 1920's Schrader or Dill catalog showing their parts. I've having a tough time making sure the term rim nut is correct for the part I've been wondering about or rim washer that Lang's is using in their catalog. Any help would be app...

Hi Allan: I don't need these for my use, as I refuse to use Blockley tubes, because of the incorrect valve stem. I'm going to refer you to a friend of mine. Thankyou for trying to help!

Is there a source for rim nuts to fit Blockley tubes? I know Lang's calls these rim washers, but now can a washer have threads?

Since a speedster is not an original Ford body style, what not paint the car any color you like?

Rather than call the hub a 1912, why not call it an early front hub which was probably used through 1917? The outer part of the hub which holds the race is weaker than the later hubs, and that is why they were redesigned. I have taken later hubs, and had the thread area extended to look like an earl...

WTB: Rim nuts that will fit Blockley valve stems. Their valves are much larger than a standard Model T. Is rim nut the correct term? I have lots of the correct nuts for T's, the 777's and 888's. I know Ford didn't use the 888 but I use them because they work and reduce the weight slightly.

I'm trying to help a friend with Buffalo wheels. He bought a set of Blockley tubes for his car which are the wrong size valve stem. I'm wondering if the term Rim Nut is the correct name for the nut that holds the valve stem to the rim. On Buffalo's there is no felloe. I think the name of the nut he ...

Thanks Keith for posting those wonderful photos!

Check the parts book. There are seven different lengths of adjusting rods used. I went through that with my late 25, and had an interesting time trying to locate the correct length. Keep on trying.

Since Mr. Blockley is only offering one size valve on his tubes, that creates a problem for those with period correct wire wheels that don't have a felloe, either wood or steel. I'm not aware of a current rim nut to hold the valve in place, and still be able to screw the dust cover in place without ...

AC brakes used a cable.

My point is, if you are going to reproduce part, do it correctly!

Notice the flange for the 1915 speedometer road gear in the photos.

The difference is obvious. The one on the left is the 1913 style, while the left one is 14-17, maybe even later?

Is this a genuine Ford item? In 60 years, I've haven't seen these.

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