MTFCA Forum

R.V.Anderson

Jonah, I'd sell it for whatever the buyer wanted to offer for it.

R.V.Anderson

Greg, I have a Sept. 1916 block if you're interested. That would be a very early '17 block. It's pretty rusty but could probably be used. The price is right if you want it!

R.V.Anderson

email sent.

R.V.Anderson

An old time sheet metal soldering manual says that before soldering, wipe a little shoe polish onto areas you don't want solder on.

R.V.Anderson

"Erik" not Eric. I apologize.

R.V.Anderson

What Eric said. The oval wooden bows' ends are tapered to fit tightly into the tapered socket all by themselves, and the tack is intended to be a safety measure.

R.V.Anderson

Here's how I do wood wheels. Mine still look beautiful and are nice and straight after almost 20 years of washing and sudden thunder storms. Start the job by fully restoring your hubs and fellows, and assembling the wheel. Begin painting the wood by removing all dust with a good tack cloth. Use a go...

R.V.Anderson

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/Prod ... /axle/rear

R.V.Anderson

Usually the extreme tightness is caused by a burr that was thrown up during assembly. I've found that to be the case on about 1/3 of the transmissions I've worked on. Nearly all of the drums in this scenario get wrecked during pulling; it's smart to be sure you have a good one on hand as a replcemen...

R.V.Anderson

Lazy slug that I am, I'd just buy a Model A.

R.V.Anderson

Actually, the ones Larry is speaking of are totally stock in that they are made exactly to original Ford specs, as I understand it. They don't have the extra 1/16". Therefore they would be perfect for my NOS hubs. Also they are made from 4130 steel, not 4140 as the added-length units are.

R.V.Anderson

Only until about February.

R.V.Anderson

The only information I have, and it's because that is all that I have researched, is on the two styles that were used in 1912-1919. The earlier of the two types, the one with the pronounced double seam, began to be used about midway through the 1912 model year. That was briefly superseded by the "se...

R.V.Anderson

Hey, for me, that's practically yesterday.....

R.V.Anderson

On the way; thanks!

R.V.Anderson

Interesting! I will have to check mine. In my case I was heading through an intersection after the light change; suddenly felt like I'd run over a couple speed bumps. Then a bang that is probably still echoing around the buildings down there. I haven't tossed the tire yet; probably won't. No true T ...

R.V.Anderson

My brother Jon builds them from the Ford prints. He will sell you just the bow you need. He's in the middle of building inventory for Luray so he's probably got one on hand. I've given him your number, since you posted it.

R.V.Anderson

I'll be bringing early coils and parts, new Heinze coilbox and coils, top straps and hardware, Larry Smith, rewound field coils, a couple new 1913-14 gas generators, correct nut and bolt sets, a lot of miscellaneous new and used parts including several never before available new items. My brother Jo...

R.V.Anderson

If the car ran fine before sitting for three years, 90% of the time the trouble is that the points have a little bit of oxidation on them. All you have to do is take a piece of 120-150 sandpaper about 1 inch wide x 3 inches long and fold it in half the long way so the grit is to the outside. Depress...

R.V.Anderson

I have one on the way; thanks David! Thanks MTFCA!

R.V.Anderson

Set of 17 pieces; four outer clips and one center clip (goes behind the coilbox). Includes correct fasteners. Limited supply; 15 sets made and one has been sold. Inquire at rvmodeltATnetsyncDOTnet

Loud shout out to Kim Dobbins for making these possible!!

R.V.Anderson

Good catch, Brendan. The small end of the springs goes toward the center so the large end can hang down, touching the axle tube, and (hopefully) by the spiral action picking up the excess oil and moving it towards the center.

R.V.Anderson

Yes; got it; thank you!!!

R.V.Anderson

Need a good used (preferably at least 50% tread remaining) straight rib. After 44 years one of mine finally blew the clinch off the sidewall. Thanks!

rvmodeltATnetsyncDOTnet

R.V.Anderson

Email sent!

R.V.Anderson

Great; thanks Dan!

R.V.Anderson

That's OK. I'm in the same situation myself. Thanks for checking!

R.V.Anderson

Steve, I have the contact blocks. Already made up from the Ford print. I'll send you one.

R.V.Anderson

Thanks Dan!

R.V.Anderson

Thanks Steve!

R.V.Anderson

FWIW, here's how I do wood wheels. Mine still look beautiful and are nice and straight after almost 20 years of washing and sudden thunder storms. Start the job by fully restoring your hubs and fellows, and assembling the wheel. Begin painting the wood by removing all dust with a good tack cloth. Us...

R.V.Anderson

Still looking.

R.V.Anderson

I remember taking the sockets on my '14 to an aerospace-quality welder and he got nowhere with the thin metal; hence the mechanical repair. What I ended up doing back then was sending the whole works out to John Boorinakis who installed the original castings on new sheetmetal tubes. Or vice versa. T...

R.V.Anderson

Might be, but I could buy the wheel, then, since I don't need the hub. the junk spokes could be cut and just the rim shipped. That should only cost most of one arm and one leg, not the entire limbs.

R.V.Anderson

If it were my car, I'd remove any original wood, then clean any loose rust out of the socket. Fill the socket with liquid rust converter, drain it back out immediately, leave the socket open end down after swabbing out the excess chemical with a rag wired to the end of a dowel or metal rod. Allow th...

R.V.Anderson

A complete wheel with bad spokes, with or without hub, would be OK, as long as the rim is good.

R.V.Anderson

Hi; looking for a mint or very nice non-demountable rim. Will be installed on a new wood wheel. Will buy outright or: also have a very nice 30 x 3 ND rim to trade if anyone would prefer that. Thanks!

rvmodeltATnetsyncDOTnet

R.V.Anderson

What is the magnet to field coil air gap?

R.V.Anderson

Mike, on the 1913 roadster, the amount the wood is driven into the sockets (Ford called it the "drive", logically enough) is 6" all the way around; front, upright, and rear. I believe the 1917 oval sockets would be the same. Hope this helps.

R.V.Anderson

FWIW, that printing on your US tube is the same as on my five 30 x 3-1/2 Goodyear, also made in USA, tubes. I bought them from a Goodyear vendor at a swap meet in the late '80s. I had been having nothing but trouble from my Universal tubes; the GY vendor said his tubes would end it. They did and I'm...

R.V.Anderson

Looks like he made the wife do the cranking. Hence the helmet and the missing RH headlamp...

R.V.Anderson

OK; one set saved for Bill A.

R.V.Anderson

Hi all; postage is $5.00 in the US so the total would be $32.50. Payment can be by Paypal or send a check to me at 3515 Rt. 62, Kennedy, NY 14747. These are going quickly; thanks MTFCA!

R.V.Anderson

Add to the Fahnestock list, I meant.

R.V.Anderson

The only thing I would add is that the pin needs to be a snug fit in the hole to properly keep things together. I have found that a 7/64" pin works a lot better than the Ford-standard 3/32" in 95% of the places requiring it.

R.V.Anderson

Well if that works half as good as it looks....

R.V.Anderson

Now available: T-3066S manifold clamp stud, 1909-24. Early 3-1/4” length but have the later type shoulder for positive locking at a uniform depth in the block. Stainless steel, set of 4. $28.50

R.V.Anderson

Now available: T-3066S manifold clamp stud, 1909-24. Early 3-1/4” length but have the later type shoulder for positive locking at a uniform depth in the block. Stainless steel, set of 4. $28.50

R.V.Anderson

They are pretty much the same dimensionally except for being rectangular and using different wood, which you already know. FWIW, the (standard) 1913-17 number 2, 3, & 4 sockets are essentially the same; only the front bow to the windshield changed in '15; it is 23" long vs. 26" on the '13-'14.

R.V.Anderson

Steve, Adam D. is entirely correct; if you're looking to save some $$$ then install a rewound single stack. Any of the flywheels with 3/4" magnets will work with one. I have one in my '14, along with a starter flywheel, so, if it ain't unregular and irrelijious to seggest it (apologies to Mark Twain...

R.V.Anderson

Steve, I have one rewound, surface ground, double oval stack on hand ready to go. Email me at rvmodeltATnetsyncDOTnet

R.V.Anderson

Order enough? Maybe. Pay enough? Definitely!

R.V.Anderson

The correct lengths of the "short" key straps used on Fords is 3-1/4" from the center of the key "eye" to the center of the punched hole for the mounting screw. These straps go on the front socket. On the "long" straps that go on the upright, the same distance is 5-1/2". It's hard to tell with certa...

R.V.Anderson

This Kingston box and coils would have been used originally in a 1912 T.

R.V.Anderson

I think I can help you. I have a rewound field coil that was sent to me about 12 years ago in exchange for a new one, though there was/is nothing wrong with the one he sent. It's not my work but it works fine; has been sitting on the shelf ever since. I'll get it down and clean it up; amazing how mu...

R.V.Anderson

Should have added that you can get the correct screws at any Home Desperate or any other hardware store.

R.V.Anderson

Gene, what you need to do is to punch a 1/8" hole in the leather that is 1/4" from the end of the strap, opposite the cotter key. Then, to be correct, use a #8 x 5/8" long round head brass screw and a #8 steel washer (NOT zinc plated!) to secure it to the socket. If you are using original sockets th...

R.V.Anderson

Starter mounting and transmission inspection door screws are both 5/16"-18. In fact, if you have an aluminum cover with worn door threads and you are using a screen filter that fits into the opening, said filter and its two gaskets making original type door bolts in effect too short, starter bolts m...

R.V.Anderson

I have a great source for the leather washers; top quality and very reasonably priced. Stay tuned...

All the dies have been shipped; went out today so if you ordered one be looking to get yours in a few days to a week.

R.V.Anderson

OK everyone; the new dies have arrived and I will be sending them off to their new owners tomorrow. I have tried mine out on 5 different original stems and I'm very happy with how well it works. The die is fully adjustable and can cut new threads as well as chase old ones.

Thanks everybody!!

R.V.Anderson

Some auction results: The day started out sunny and hot; things moved along slowly but steadily. They had decided to sell everything except the cars and the tarp/pallet lots with most of the parts in the morning, then that stuff in the afternoon, running two rings until then. Clouds had been increas...

R.V.Anderson

I think Adam is right. I know that back when Herman Harder was making the drums, he told me that when sending him an original gear, if the drum it was coming off of was worn out or broken, to just take a heavy hammer and break the cast iron away from the gear, leaving the rivets in place, and then s...

R.V.Anderson

I have found that on my '14, yes it is harder to polish if it's neglected, say, in winter storage from fall until spring. Water spots are the worst. I learned the hard way that if I don't get them off immediately and they dry on the brass, I have to take the headlamps apart and really bear down on t...

R.V.Anderson

OK, Rich; now you made a little dim bulb go off in what's left of my mind. I seem to recall, sorta, that I used the later nut on my '14 but shortened it a bit to clear the bolt heads in an attempt to get the best of both worlds. That was almost 20 years ago so I don't recall much, but I bet it happe...

R.V.Anderson

I wouldn't say Henry was a racist. He was an anti-Semite. Unlike most Detroit employers of his day, Henry believed in hiring and promoting blacks, sometimes placing them in supervisory roles over whites, which in those times caused quite a ruckus.

R.V.Anderson

What these guys said. The brass-era radiator stud nut is considerably shorter than the black-era (1917 and later) ones. The early, short one can spin merrily around while you drive yourself batty (or in my case, battier) trying to get the stud out. The longer one will jam against the frame when turn...

R.V.Anderson

R.V.Anderson

Guys have been asking about these so I have posted here: I finally have a (very limited) supply of the late Watts style clutches on hand. As with the earlier style, which I also have on hand, I sell them as a kit which includes the clutch pack, the stronger Chaffin's spring, and a properly machined ...

R.V.Anderson

Very nice condition. $55 postpaid and insured.

img20200725_11454678.pdf: (869.76 KiB) Downloaded 156 times

R.V.Anderson

What Dan said. That is most definitely the place to start with all pans. Get them squeaky clean first, do an initial check on a jig to see if using the pan is at all feasible, then if it is in fact usable, go on to repair any cracks, replace or properly repair any missing forgings. Then have the pan...

R.V.Anderson

FWIW, I have the drawing for the earlier (1915-20 style) body rear seat center trim rail, part #T-8371B, total length 36-5/16", and it emphasizes that the center section of the piece is straight. The same with the front seat center trim rail, only it's shorter.

R.V.Anderson

I think Steve is correct; they were the first style used with the new wider-pole double oval stack field coil in September of '14. The typical '14 used the fixed, small round pole double stacked style field coil. The magnets used with it had very long, arc-shaped clamps to try to overcome the notori...

R.V.Anderson

I installed them in my '14 almost 20 years ago; no problems and the axle still runs quietly. I understand that the particular style I have is no longer available, so I have already acquired a full set of original style parts, both new and NOS, for when it comes time to rebuild.

R.V.Anderson

From your photos it appears that your '17 has the early style, oval shaped top sockets, so the dimensions you are asking about should be pretty much the same as on the 1914 touring. According to the 1914 touring car top drawing, the inner edge of the wooden front bow sits 1" to 1-1/4" in front of th...

R.V.Anderson

OK; after five days I finally heard back from Eckler's via email. They promised to expedite my case, and I have no reason to believe that they won't.

R.V.Anderson

It isn't about my car, but when it dawned on me to check their website I learned through a "live chat" with a fellow named Bill that apparently it's the virus hysteria. The showroom is closed to the public and except for the shipping department, which is operating with a "socially distanced" skeleto...

R.V.Anderson

Has anyone tried contacting Eckler's this week or last? All I get are recordings; no one is answering any phone or responding to emails. Dialing any extension only gets a recording saying "The person at extension XXXX is not available."

???

R.V.Anderson

I seem to recall an earlier thread in which the OP asked which single, bolt-on type speed/power accessory would give the most bang for the buck if that was the only change made to the engine. I don't recall what the consensus was, if any.

R.V.Anderson

OK, Richard and Steve; it's after the deadline but I contacted the die maker and asked if they'd accept two more. Looks like it won't be a problem because they are building a prototype for testing before going on to the full run. But if anyone else wants one, better let me know today.

R.V.Anderson

Update: These are underway. A total of 9 dies have been spoken for; that will comprise the run. The die maker is using an original stem as a template to ensure that the finished dies will perform as they should. They should be ready in about 10 days-2 weeks.

R.V.Anderson

Actually, reproducing these parts is in the works. The 1909-10 cars used a 5 piece set; four out near the ends and then one special piece that goes behind the coil box. Should be ready within a month, thanks to the fellow supplying the patterns.

R.V.Anderson

Allan:

R.V.Anderson

Lots of good advice here. To give yourself more room at the driveshaft end, first put chocks up tight behind the front wheels. Then jack up the rear axle just enough to get a couple pieces of 2 x 4 under the rear wheels. Place them so that the back edge of each 2 x 4 is just a hair forward of the wh...

R.V.Anderson

Very, very sorry to hear this. Wally was a good friend and colleague in re-winding field coils. We had adjoining spaces at Chickasha for years; it was always great fun to sit and chat with Wally and his cronies Roger and Howard when things were slow. Deepest condolences to Fran, Dave, and the entire...

R.V.Anderson

I was the first restorer of a '27 Tudor, s/n 14641277. It had been pulled from a shed out on Long Island and I bought it from the "puller" in late December 1983. When I sold it to a newly retired gentleman in Poughkeepsie in 1988 it was painted black with red wire wheels. Interior was gray with whit...

R.V.Anderson

Yes, that's the shaft. Actually, according to Ford, the ribs first appeared in some 1912 covers but it wasn't until late 1913 that they all had them.

R.V.Anderson

Essentially yes, but the earliest '13 covers had a different clutch shaft to which the yokes were keyed and bolted. Later ones were pinned to the shaft and riveted over.

R.V.Anderson

OK; their Engineering dept. has confirmed that these will be specially-built dies suitable for thread chasing use on original sized, two-flat-side Schrader 777 & 888, Dill, Firestone, or TR (Tire & Rim Mfr.) valve stems in the size specified by Ford, which is 13/32" x 28 tpi. This size was used excl...

R.V.Anderson

Matter of fact, yes; I've been working on it awhile. Will reproduce them when it is as close to perfect as I can get it.

R.V.Anderson

Well, I did what I threatened to do. Pulled three of the four tubes from my '14 and set them aside as my new spares. I took a pair of NOS Lester 30 x 3s, removed the rubber stems, smoothed the hole, and poured in the beads. Installed the original 777s and remounted them. The fourth tube already had ...

R.V.Anderson

Nope; not too late. After Tuesday it will be, at least for this go 'round.

R.V.Anderson

OK; we have our 6, so the lower price has kicked in. The die maker's Engineering department is closed until Monday; I will confirm some important details of the new die's construction with them then, so I guess Tuesday July 7 will be the cutoff for reserving one so we can get these under way. Thanks...

R.V.Anderson

I have finally gotten a quote for making these very-special-thread (13/32" x 28) dies. One die is $147 but we can get them for less than half of that --$70 each-- if we order at least 6. The price doesn't change after that. This round, adjustable HSS die would be for chasing damaged threads on origi...

R.V.Anderson

Scott, did/do the Hartford tubes come with correct (usable) metal stems or did you install originals? Or leave the rubber stems on?

R.V.Anderson

Yes; they are all like that although some have a bit more shelf wear than others.

R.V.Anderson

R.V.Anderson

Thanks for all the suggestions. I think what I will do will be to remove the vulcanized metal-stem tubes that are on the car now and replace them with my spares, which are new rubber stem tubes that I will cut off and replace with original metal stems. While I have made that nice smooth hole for the...

R.V.Anderson

That's a late '12-'13 Heinze coil box.

R.V.Anderson

$12 pair, postpaid. About 20 pairs available. Please email me at rvmodeltATnetsyncDOTnet.

They are a lot nicer than they look here. Camera still won't co-operate.

R.V.Anderson

All gone; thanks everyone!

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