MTFCA Forum

Wayne, good eye. Wondered who would note that 1912 running board. The resturant is the Legs Inn. Built by immigrant Mr. Smolak who came to the United States in 1912 and settled in Cross Village in 1921. During the 1930s Smolak enlisted the labor of Odawa and other area residents to construct the inn...

Here’s a few! Having fun, great roads and weather too.

Lunch stop , note the threshold!

Thanks so much! I was beginning to think this was some weird collection of various parts, so that's good to know. Those steel wheels were just slapped on there so we could get it out of the shed it was in. Any ideas on what kind of wheels I should be on the lookout for? Found someone on Ebay that h...

James Looked at your Gallery ad of 5 photos, found under title Made It Home. Your T chassis is a mid-1920s, the engine is a 26-27, has wide pedals, cyl head mount water outlet fan, the rear axle is from a TT truck, worm drive with accessory Ruckstell added. That ton truck axle is hard mounted to a T...

Appropriately 2 1/16” - 2 1/8” opening on Ford pack nut wrench.

Being sure the timing is set right is something I check before helping new owners getting an old T running. Won’t hand crank until setting is known. Plus always double check the spark lever is up on the quadrant on your own T. Have friends who got injured by forgetting or were being distracted in th...

Mark, checked my junk pile but didn't find any old one piece bonded. :( Don't forget to cut the new ones almost all the way through at the back of the pivot point. Then, when they break, it will be at the pivot bolt and you can carry on as if nothing happened, just like the two piece ones Allan, re...

Quick answer is lots of issues if you only have a 24 complete block with 24 transmission, and no hogshead. Your 26 would have the wide transmission brake drum, that uses the late 26-27 hogshead with the wide space pedals. And your floor boards are made for those wide pedals. Your 26 has the water ou...

For difficult coils to remove from that metal box, try wiggling the two coils in the center of the box . Normally the end coils can be held by the corners of the box. Grasp the standoffs of the bridge, don't grab the point sets, you can usually wiggle back and forth by grabbing onto to the standoff...

Brent

No tricks just stripes!

You could have plain or fancy, care of Sears,Roebuck and Co.

This older post covers most of those questions. Your hose fitting seems correct and original.

viewtopic.php?t=15994

Perhaps to retard oil leakage from the pushrod action of crankcase oil splash.

Interesting video, using power tools. Neat if you are doing mass polishing! For real dull tarnished parts have used the ketchup trick, it works to remove stubborn brown tarnish! But for brass windshield for the '12 project, the brown tarnish was removed really fast, by hand, applying about 2 coats....

Since the handle is busted off, likely the valve is really stuck in the bulb. Plus the large brass nut has to come off anyway to clean or replace the filter screen soldered to the nut. So best is to heat the iron bulb around the lever and nut, you can get the iron really hot to near dull red and th...

Hmmmm, looks like I've been collecting parts for a "Sport" and didn't even know it. If I'm not mistaken, wind wings are impossible to obtain, so I'll be one option short. Sport Touring and Sport Runabout Fawn colored top boot, fawn fabric windwings, or glass windwings, natural wood or wire wheels, ...

Have success with my ‘27 running Champion 25, gapped a tad over .025”, with Prus head and the unstoppable I-Timer on magneto.

Fun Stuff. Thanks for posting.

Used to ride thru Bells TN on hiway 79 a bunch as a kid on way to parents cabin on KY Lake.

And had a ‘25 with serial # 11,261,xxx close to this one. And the model I.d. are fun, RC = runabout clincher, and TSB = touring starter balloon, etc.

Steve Jelf wrote: ↑
Sun Jul 27, 2025 5:47 pm
Apparently the bigger ratchet wasn't different enough to get a separate part number. The parts book shows the same thing for all years.

Here is the whole shebang on T ratchets from Prof. Trent

Click on link:

https://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/ratchets.htm

Missed that, was thinking only of the 2849D clincher 30" tire clamp used 1921 to 1925. The Y bracket is for the '26-'27 mounts that are on the body. The Y 2873 is for balloon tires, 21". The lower stud fits to a rim lug nut to secure the rim and tire. There is a flanged rim nut with holes to also ch...

Here you are:

And you can add a padlock to the clamp to prevent rim and tire theft

Trent Boggess did a bit of discovery on the topic of ratchet rivets! While on the subject of the starting crank ratchet, now might be a good time to bring up the subject of the pin used to attach the ratchet to the starting crank. When the forged design crank ratchet was adopted in late 1908, the S...

Those early Clum switches are rather different inside. This pic was off the forum years ago, believe it is the innards of one of those '19-early '20 switches. The large cast handle on the far right is busted off. Switch.jpg And once had a couple of Ben Martin restored early ones, the plates have eit...

Looks more like a “clown car” masquerading as a racer

And the cost!

That Herz timer priced at $4.75 in 1921 when most timers cost under $2.

Today’s dollars a std. timer was 20 bucks or so, that bronze casting and hardened steel spring contacts was the equivalent of $70 today

Stack height : 1 1/8”

Will be restoring the steering gear on my '27 soon. Last done in 2003, and now the steering shaft is wobbly in the bracket bushing. The shaft was an old original and when fitting the new bushing, reamed it to a slip fit. Likely now that old shaft was a bit oblong worn anyway, and fitting a new bush...

Henry had this special 33' Hacker built with a Liberty 12 cyl engine, both he and Edsel raced large wooden boats, with driver teams in the early 20s. After a serious boat fire in 1924 the racing stopped. The special craft was found, was restored and was sold for $1.5mil. Given the racing background...

Correct The 26-27 steering bracket casting # 932C (factory number) has only ONE bushing, at lower end. The upper end of the casting is a narrow chamber, just for the steering shaft, and to retard grease exiting the upper. The bushing is Part # 3545B2 with Factory Number 944B . That bushing must com...

Yes. Ford was electric spot welding since at least 1913.

Mostly fenders then, but when body builds were in house, lots of spot welds were used.

Ford Methods and the Ford Shops

The Ford Industries booklet

Earlier post on the 26-27 bracket. One bushing. 7/8” dia.

There is an internal boss so don’t make your bushing too long. Otherwise grease won’t get there.

https://share.google/Y4a5DYsogphfeUiB0

Haven't used an explosion whistle, and for that matter an 1/2" adapter in the cylinder head to install mm plugs. IMO, it may be helpful to use a 'long reach' plug to get the electrode at least partially in the chamber. Here is view of chamber with a standard reach plug. IMG_3163.JPG The explosion w...

Any spark plug can be used. Isn’t a need for a custom spark plug. Fit any brand you wish as long as the threads of the plug fit the opening in the whistle.

Believe you mean an “explosion whistle”. Those devices for a T have a 1/2” pipe thread base, which has tapped opening to place any 1/2” pipe thread Spark plug. The spark plug does the ignition fire. The whistle cylinder then carries gases of compression to make the sound, activated by the lever valv...

Here's similar register on a parts counter, seems like it recored a $5 ? sale.

Here’s some photos off the web.

Cash drawer filled with silver and some folding money too

No pennies as the counter had 1cent candy jar for minor change. Same as what will happen today as the US Mint obsoletes that coin.

On mine, the lens was loose and just slapped JB Weld over the edges. Can’t fall out now

(6v LED stop / tail lamp)

And, found that on bumpy roads the door flew open, a lace of wire fixed that.

Per Bruce's CD parts listing, the cotter for the clutch finger adjusting screw is Factory No. 757 , as shown on the cutaway drawing.

Cotter pin, 3/32 x 7/8". Clutch finger

All years '17-'27

#3006 Cyl head inlet hose (upper) 2" Dia. x 4" L. (Brass radiator, '09-'16 2" Dia. x 3 1/4" L)

#3944 Outlet hose(s) (lower) 1 3/4" Dia. x 2 3/4" L

don't know what Henry smoked when designing the timer-advance-rod, but that stuff was not good. :lol: It hits the engine block, rubs on water hose, is too close to the timer, ... There would be lots easier ways to link the timer. If parts are stock, the Ford timer rod for the year of your T will wo...

By 27 guess perhaps no screw holes in subframe, so just insert the blocks and body bolts on the body to frame brackets will secure the blocks. On this early 26 runabout the blocks were screwed to the subframe channels. IMG_9412.png And use screws to secure the splash shield edges to the blocks to re...

Brent

This older post of mine has photos of blocks in place.

viewtopic.php?t=25552

From the club encyclopedia

Very nice.

Just one more minor addition, a note may be helpful to “Drill grease hole halfway thru bushing 2581 in-line with 2545 grease cup.”

Those bushings come un-drilled and grease can’t get to the inner surfaces to the drive shaft without such a hole. Should be about 1/4” dia. hole.

Lang’s website lists these. Guess they are in stock?

Number: 4816-17A
Per Car: 1
Year: 1910-1915
Condition: New
Price: $74.95 pair

Another view, this is a late 1912 slab sided bodied touring. Wheel spokes have open darts on the stripes.

Older post on tach installs

Scroll down and photo of fan pulley drive using an o-ring as drive belt.

https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/1 ... 1296400655

TT Shackle with Ford script on the nut.

Left spring with script

Ford advertised a running listing of all the T parts marked with script!

Nice find.

Only seen this one picture of an early 1914 tool list packing slip posted some time ago.

In late 24 firewall was modified with that lower oval hole, then in 25 the choke bell crank was deleted and the new “26” style combo choke and carb adj u-joint swivel on the NH carb used that oval hole. These 25s fitted with that carb setup just prior to the Improved Car for 26 model year. Henry’s c...

Dennis

Lang’s has that pickup bed part.

This sketch may help to check the timer case wiring. timer wiring.jpeg For timing, a good method to check the timer case is rotated past TDC is to note the pulley pin being just past horizontal. Kickbacks can happen with timer fitted at TDC or before. The timing should be past TDC, about 15 degrees...

Now I know that I will open the timer at least twice a year, wipe it clean, and lubricate the roller The roller timer needs routine service if you put miles on your T. Ford recommended every 200 miles to oil or lube that roller timer, cleaning occasionally too. Many brands of timers were made to he...

This is the measure made on the socket diameter. 1910 touring, original saddles, reproduction top sockets with the following measurements: Top socket width 1-45/128" That would be about 1 3/8" diameter, give or take. But remember the saddle will have a leather strap laying in the curve, so you have...

You might call this outfit , may have a saddle that fits.

Sent email, await response.

Catalog page for that attachment.

Could just Time Machine back to the the local Ford dealer or auto parts dealer and grab a metal patch.

Ford did build cars in 1910. But... did they build 1910 models? From club homepage, Encyclopedia MODEL YEAR DATES: August 1, 1909 to November 1910, approximately. Note: Ford referred to the cars built after August 1, 1909 as “1910” cars.... IMG_1944 (640x424).jpg And from then on, every year, Ford ...

There have been several fathers/son builds, this link is one and if you scroll down to Aug 7 2024 is finish of “Nuthin’ Special”, followed that one with lots of posts and donated a part for it. These are fun activities.

https://share.google/5jcR8z9QHdHOdGmWx

Lastly to add...all the other suggestions are good, one that caught be off guard on a hilly tour was clogged filter screen in the sediment bulb pumpkin under the tank. The '24 touring ran fine about 3/4 the way up a hill, then stalled out. Found later the screen was about covered with fine fibers s...

Located an image of the Mark E support brace. Likely for the TT, but gives the idea of design.

Yes. Cutting the front running board channel is a must for these trans.

This older post has a great write up on install of several types, but not the Mark E

https://share.google/pQHtf6DScZ85zGlzd

Flap debating is an American Joy ;) The old time flaps for clincher rims were either very thin more like liners, or more robust ones and thicker. old flap in tire protecting tube.jpg 26er10.jpg What is today a clincher flap is rather more thick, stiffer, and bit wider. IMO they are ok to use, only ...

This older post has pics of the bracket.

https://share.google/WOg6e4p3l45PrG8Wv

Pat Agree that dry springs aren't good. However the graphite coat dries and leaves a very slick surface, and prevents rusting too. Ford original used graphite mixed in a paint (i.e. like modern E-Z Slide or Slip Plate materials) and that paint dried between the leaves and left a very slick surface ...

T hat Grose Jet replaces the NH seat and threads in, these give grief as they are made for pressure fuel systems. And IMO your friend's carb is so rusty inside, lots of material decayed, perhaps the passages are also rusted closed some, best to ream out those or find a better looking NH core. Gross ...

Also good is dry graphite spray, over the primed metal. This stuff is available in Alaska in hardware or farm supply stores. Once made a mix of grease and powdered graphite lube, which was in the small key lock tube, but that mix just kept seeping out between the leaves and looked messy. Dry slipper...

Made this post a while back. Info from a knowledgeable T person who made reproductions of T horns. Re: Magneto Horn Questions.... Post Sat Sep 18, 2021 3:08 pm John Regan gave this explanation of the two versions of the magneto horns: John F. Regan on Thursday, September 10, 2015 - 09:25 am: Mag hor...

Good to know. They are now identified, and both are in great shape too. Someone some where needs these.

Dennis This is from Bruce's C-D enclyl on factory part numbers. Yours appear to have stamped in numerals along with cast in numerals. The stamped appear to be T-5178 and T-5179. So using his info, the 2nd dates column is "Used On" dates, then these might then be 1915-1921 Top Irons rear seat. Espec...

Thanks for your help on this. I didn't know that the steering column was interchangable with a later model T. I need to find out more information. Here is a correct 1912 steering column on the sawhorse. Gear cluster is two piece all brass, riveted. Spark and Throttle levers are long taper ended. Ro...

On my '12 open express project, just did the shade tree fix, bent the steel rod to run close under the pumpkin. At least looks good to me! Besides the heavy cast later pumpkin is plenty strong. IMG_9194.JPG IMG_9196.JPG And some types of the rear axle braces were made with just a support rod, not f...

On the Improved cars, the cowl (dash) is more robust. And more body to frame bolts. On those '26-'27 models, one of the two firewall bracket to frame bolts should be left off otherwise the frame to cowl (dash) bracket can be cracked. Ford made an Engineering Change in fastening those bolts to frame...

Here's the info:

The important item is the steering post, that has to be the late 5:1 post, as the pinion pins are different center lines than the 4:1 post, that will make it impossible to fit 5:1 gear set.

: IMG_2412 (700x593) (600x508) (550x466).jpg (151.32 KiB) Viewed 936 times

ModelTRanch.com Has the cast brackets that clamp around the axle housing, you have to drill mounting bolt holes and of course add your own cross bar. A length of steel rod is all that is needed. 1046-500 Truss clamping brackets not drilled (set of 2) $66.00[ /b] Put a set on my '12 project open exp...

ModelTMitch wrote: ↑
Thu Jun 26, 2025 10:21 pm
If only there was a company actively making these fantastic toys today, instead of having to track down an antique

This one is made today, modern elec. power, kid driving Model T. Only $3900 FOB China!

https://antiquegolfcart.com/product/model-t-toy-car/

I got this in a load of stuff from a gentleman that cleaned out Ford dealerships in the 50/60. It looks like 26/27 brake material. Did Ford ever sell it in bulk? The roll is held closed by a small tack in each end. See pictures. I looked in some of my Ford listed the 2566D Hub Brake Shoe Lining (26...

The replacement 26-27 parking brake lining that Lang's sells in stiff, because it has fine fibers of brass wire in the lining material. Difficult to trim and cut. Here is close-up of this lining, note the glint of the shiny brass rivets matching the glint shine in the lining material. 26 27 lining ...

Lang's posted this on answer for their 26-27 linings.

what are the deminsions?
The linings are 32" long by 1.5" wide and there are two peices.
Answered By: 23 SEL
4 out of 7 found this answer useful.

And the thickness should be 3/16"

Yes he does, page from website showing 12v items.

Here is a 4 page .pdf file of the 26-27 side curtains, 1st pic is the original set. The other 3 pages are drawings with dimensions of the curtains made from original. Shows all fastener locations and the front curtains door rod pockets, the driver's side has the extra flap for hand signals. You can...

Larry

The valve stem size is more related to the tire and tube size than mfg. of the auto.

Period adv. of the 1915 Jeffery list tire as 34 x 4.

Here is a period chart showing the valve stem size recommended for tire larger than 3". The 725 size would be correct.

For ref. the std dust cap for the T ( without wire wheel) and using the 777 stem is 2 7/16"

"It is also necessary to provide a longer dust cap for the valve stem, these parts being also obtainable through the various tire dealers." Here is the print for that 3" dust cap, note in the upper left corner " Chassis with wire wheels" IMG_0003 (4) (716x1024).jpg So the std. 777 was used on the w...

My question is about the Valve and Lifter Guides? Were they pressed fitted or part of the block's casting. The valve guides, may have been cast with the block A bare water pump block. Note the valve stem guides are cast and placed in upper bore holes and the lower bore holes for the lifter guides. ...

Yup would say it is the same thing, thank you Dan. If you get a chance could you send me a copy of that full page, the bottom is cut off the one in the post. Here is a scan of the whole page. click on image to enlarge Scan.jpeg Must have not sold too well, as the high price, last Adv. on the unit w...

This is an early type of such apparatus, was made for the Ford. Seems the very same unit.

Actually like this period item, better to me than a clip on modern front dizzy.

Shape of the key seems like 1931A sedan Crown door lock key, but is not that, the key is too stubby.

There are several on the web for sale, all have the "DF" prefix too.

Guess we need an early script Ford key expert

The only hard part is knowing the correct gauge of wire used for the spring and which height to order for needed compression. I was going to go that route for a car I was working on and may still do it for my T after seeing the prices! Doing coil spring seats requires spring steel music wire. IMG_1...

Not knowing how many folks make Kevlar band lining besides yourself, does this mean that we're about to face a shortage of Kevlar bands? From the most recent issues of Model T Times and Vintage Ford , the independent suppliers (outside the regular T nat'l vendors) remain as : Final Answer Kevlar li...

Maybe you could use a small prick punch and tighten the front loop of the hood to the rod, from the underside, fastening that loop, keeping the hinge rod from riding backwards. On my '12 project someone in the past had the opposite problem with the hinge rod siding forward and letting the rear end ...

Post from 2021 showing Universal wheels, scroll to bottom of the thread.

https://share.google/GxJHq4H7plEnAOvx1

Bill As you, had to find a way to place that spring under. Your clip is more pure mechanical approach and can see the ease of placing the latch with a starter hogshead on early T’s. So figured a wire tie could work, as for the difficulty with the starter against the frame, had to reach deep with the...

Master Brake.

Made two styles, one for the 8" Ford drum, and a larger 10" Master cast iron drum for heavy Ts.

10" special Master drum

Bill Nice tool for that compression of the latch spring on brass T’s. Here’s my trick, lace a plastic wire tie and compress, slip latch shaft down into the wood shelf and that small frame hole annd then into the compressed spring. Use micro forceps and add washer and cotter. Snip wire tie free and d...

Here is info on those spacers.

These may help.

The 1912 runabout footman loops are 18 7/8" spaced from centerline of the top.

And this is the later 1920-1921 with footman loops 19" from centerline of top.

The hogshead should remove by lifting straight up, sometimes a small tilt to the rear. Then when free of the engine block, tilt back to remove. But be sure the rear U joint ball cap is free, remove bolts top and bottom. Sometimes sealant there keeps the back end down. Free bands, and all other attac...

From Judging Guidelines, 7th Edition 1925: ‘Bent upper end” refers to the triangular handle used on carb adj. rod. The choke rod has round alum. knob. Later is the combo carb adj. and choke / with u-joint, using just the round aluminum knob. IMG_9141.jpeg Similar u-joint design used on Vaporizer car...

Great find! Congrats.

Now get Dan Hatch’s taper reamer to complete that set!

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