MTFCA Forum

The very few places old time felt is used, have rubbed the felt with axle grease. Compresses the felt, and helps retard oils from seeping. For me the only felts are the rear wheel hub/drum recess and the hogshead felt circle seal. Old school for me is to use varnish, dip the hogshead felt strip, let...

Found this info for the Lock and Tilting version on Google Books:

No room. Maybe I need new body blocks but the few I have seen in person sit the same as mine. Things don't add up, but I'm sure we'll get to the bottom of it. Well looked again and see now the bed wood isn't like stock install. Yours has 6 metal bed strips or cleats. The factory is 4. The curved me...

I place it folded, lying on towels, on the rear seat of the touring.

That 'hump plate' should be mounted with the flanges under the bed wood. Suppose the bocks are misplaced, can't seem to see in the photos. unfortunately, I can't mount it with the flanges under the bed wood. The crossmember is already up against the hump plate. bocks? Do you mean blocks? What block...

Obviously isn't original as Ford only used low tension AC flywheel magneto, timer, and 4 high tension trembler coils for ignition. A distributor has to have DC power source. If you can trust AI, then with the numbers on that Bosch nameplate, the unit is old cast iron one. AI Overview For a replacem...

Meant to post "body blocks" they are frame mounts to lift the runabout body and its deck off the frame. You might have missing or worn ones, and the body is mounted too low on the frame.

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That 'hump plate' should be mounted with the flanges under the bed wood. Suppose the wood blocks are misplaced, can't seem to see in the photos.

Hump plate on originals:

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: bed hump plate.jpg (53.16 KiB) Viewed 646 times

1912 TYPE Open Express is SOLD Fun Model T built for parades. Express body in poplar wood, with period hardware on bed flare boards and tail gate. Original type buggy seat vinyl button tufted. Restored ’13 frame, later front and rear axles. 1919 starter block, rebuilt with alum pistons, new valves ...

J1MGOLDEN wrote: ↑
Sun Sep 21, 2025 1:07 pm
This is another Unknown Hub Wrench

The nut sizes are 7/8th and 1 inch and 1 3/4th inches.

Odd Wrench.jpg

Rather sure that wrench is Chevrolet 490 hub cap wrench.

Interesting conversion using new WOSP Performance mfg. parts , and WOSP 12v starter.

This ‘17 had ring gear, so these new parts were used.

Found pics on Facebook. Just another choice now. www.wosperformance.com

Seems with those drums only external shoes are fitted.

Prefer to stay with Ford drums with internal emergency brake shoes, and with added Rocky Mtn external , plus keeping trans brake band in place and connected, provides more complete stopping and parking means.

This post from 2023 shows pics of how I get the stop nut off the Bendix shaft, then you can replace the gear.

viewtopic.php?t=37076

here is the photo of the dash, the dash choke is an earlier style dual choke and mixture set up. The choke knob is round, and under the dash will be a rod with triangle bend end to adj. the carb setting. Yes, seems to be a '24-'25 body, the patent plate below the dash is the rectangular style, thes...

The engine and wide pedal transmission are the Improved version. Obviously was swapped into your ‘25 -24 model year Fordor since your T isn’t Improved model with crowned fenders and sitting on the Improved Car frame. You may be able to date the body by features, the dash shows the butterfly for chok...

Haven't seen a switch face coil box with the slot for the reinforcement strip. The non-elec 1919 and later would have used the dash mount switch. Eating crow, not too tasty at all :roll: Here is a 1918 box with steel face switch and sure enough has the reinforcement strip from front to back wood. W...

This older post has some real good tips. Two person job as the cowl sediment bulb fitting to the tank has to wrangle in and back out when replacing. One can do it, but helpers are nice to have. ;) Done it solo many times in open cars, the dash sometimes needs a pull just below the switch opening as...

Previous forum discussions on the Reeder head. Believe they were made in High and Low styles. And that round casting sprue on top is an identifier. cylinder head reeder w sprue.jpeg Another one was identified as “Ron Genson”made, has "R' on the top of the water outlet neck. Correction: Reply on name...

“OR, obtain a separate ignition battery and run the engine on that. A new riding mower type 12 volt battery could run the ignition for a good while if it had no other loads.” Good idea on carrying such a spare “emergency ignition” battery. Can’t answer on the # of starts or how long that T in questi...

Haven't seen a switch face coil box with the slot for the reinforcement strip. The non-elec 1919 and later would have used the dash mount switch. The replacement wood kits have the slot, but the metal boxes I seen, with holes for the box mount switch don't have a matching slot in line with the wood ...

Nope. T and TT use the same hub cap wrench, cap hex fits both, the TT cap is larger, but same hex. There is TT-5893 Wrench, used for cyl. head bolt, spark plug, and the TT rear wheel rim nut. Replaces the std. T-2335 spark plug, cyl. bolt wrench. The record of change on earlier designs note for rear...

Research is the best way, always learning in that process. This Chart on the Hub Cap wrench history is helpful when searching swaps for the more correct factory tool set for specific years, yet sure that there was overlap and many different mfg. sourced by Ford to obtain 15 million # 1349 wrenches ...

Isn’t made, probably too difficult to repop in small quantity.

Design is unique with internal drain tube from the filler pan.

If a cast letter ‘Z’ is on front water outlet, that’s a Z head. Modern part. Model T’s have iron cylinder heads.

Agree

Didn’t expect that sight glass in the upper. Overfill of oil, so lots sprayed out. Brian knows the fix now too.

Dan Those are title registration metal discs, state law had a fee to purchase, required to mount on firewall or dash, supposed to prevent theft. The early GA ones are undated, began around 1913 I think, and rare, but GA records list numbers on the early undated disc for dating. The early ones are wo...

Brian Interesting on the site gauge in the lower petcock, didn’t know as you posted first both were closed. Those gauges have vent hole so oil registers in the glass. Yep… air flow up and out the missing floorboards pulled oil out that vent! Normally road speed of a T won’t as air flow stays low und...

Oil or other liquid leaking from a vehicle being towed on an open trailer at highway speed can blow in any direction. Turbulence behind a moving tow vehicle and around a trailered vehicle is very high. Higher road speeds, headwinds, or crosswinds can make turbulence much worse. Oil doesn't weigh mu...

Until we know from the OP, prefer to go with the hunch on the type of spray indicated , that is source is the Model T. Look at the windshield pic, I expanded it some. If the oil spray was from the tow vehicle, the spray would be outside. This oil is on only the inside of the T. Note how the oil is f...

One of Jay's Accessory of the Day feature from 2010: https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/131530.html?1269198232 COMPASS INDICATOR F OR AUTOMOBiLES Filed May 8, 1926 i Patented Apr. 10, 1928; UNITED STATES OLE P. NOISOM, OF SOUTH BEND, INDIANA. COMPASS INDICATOR FOB AUTOMOBILES, ETC. Applica...

Is the Watts Clutch Pack different than the Jack Rabbit Clutch Pack than Snyders sells now? Yes, main difference is the Watts replaces the Large discs , with fiber cutouts running on the brake drum lugs. The Turbo 400 or "Jack Rabbit" replaces the Small discs are modified by trimming off some of th...

The windshield splatter is flowing down, and on the trailer deck the oil looks very fresh, certainly isn't old used oil or fresh pavement oil from the roadways. Lots on your battery and on the front seat riser points to the motor as source. Would first check the oil level in the crankcase, and did y...

Suspect that nail head blob is from the soldering done on the tank seams. The tanks were formed with galvanized sheet metal, rolled and seams rolled on the end caps. That blob might be result of this operator, looks crosseyed to me. ;) IMG_9868.jpeg And, yes, splash baffles are soldered in the tanks...

Allan Same here, think the 4 -dip used July '24 had the changes in place for the eventual wide brake drum. Bruce's CD Ency doesn't specific say about that width change in the belly sides, but this version was used to the end of production. 1924-1927 3100 (T1526E) (No part number change from earlier ...

Fan bolt is locked with cotter against the block, keeps fan bolt in adjustment so it won't work loose and have a fan rattle. locking cotter.jpg And on your timer install, removed the nut below the terminals of the timer case, reverse the bolt on the front plate there, so only the head of the bolt is...

Auto supply catalogs of the period list Common Sense type fastener in all brass, and brass with black enamel paint.

Ford likely used brass for the early cars, and when brass was on the way out, probably switched to the black paint finish.

Just had remembered seeing the listing in Canadian Service Bulletin from 1923, of making these available to service centers, so at least Ford Canada authorized Walden-Worcester tools.

Does anyone have a photo of the later pans with the expanded area? Easy way is to see what inspection plate is under the crankcase. If it has "4-dips" or raised sections, you have the correct crankcase, the later one from late 1924-to-1927, they all can accept a wide brake band, that came along in ...

These are some old originals, brass formed , one has metal thread insert that is magnetic.

The others are non-ferrous brass, painted black, the later Lit the Dot backings are raven dull black , the one Common Sense fabric plate is shiny black paint still.

Appears correct, those common sense fasteners likely raven finished, available still today but named government black. Used on lots of military vehicles. Here is another very original 1914 that was displayed on an upper NY tour years ago, took these closeups for the photo file. 1914 org.jpeg 1914 or...

Couple of pics from an install by Eliz,when she owned Classtique. Wrap the front bow with vinyl first, the other bows get wrapped with cotton bow drill. Then fit the windbreak to the front bow, note the slot for the wiper arm. 27 windbreak.JPG windbreak and pads.jpeg The place top cover over the top...

Quite possible a Ford service agent, Ford dealer, or other agency would have parts sales room that displayed Walden Worcester tools. Note this detail from a Ford dealer parts counter, see the display and the listing of the tools, perhaps these are Walden Worcester tools. parts counter.jpeg Display ...

Lifting frame does help in placing new oil cups. A trick I use when older springs have the space real tight......I trim the end of the oil cup so it sits a bit lower in the leaf hole. cut down oilerI .jpg Shorten oiler.jpg Place the oil cups so that the doors face toward the center of the chassis. ...

Might be of some help, took these pics of a rather nice little messed with '27 coupe.

But both are different, don't know if originals or not.

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: IMG_0738 (600x450) copy.jpeg (131.76 KiB) Viewed 407 times

This eBay listing today, from another fake seller "andev_2441" , has the Lang's watermark shielded by cropping the snatched photo from Lang's website.

Wicked scammers, note the location Brazil , but shipped from "USA Warehouse" i.e. Lang's! Good grief :

Ford print detail of the rear axle taper, latest rev, 6-'25

Well, looks like the UK is getting in line with the new US duties. Bully for 'em. ;) Posted on UK Royal Mail site on Wed. 27: How long will the Royal Mail suspension last? While some signs have suggested that the suspension will last "until further notice", Royal Mail has said it expects the new Pos...

Dan H.

Here's the adv on your NOS piece!

Allan You might try using the US duty free importation of antiques. This method needs documentation, but is a possible method if your shipper completes the paperwork. Requirement is that "Antiques" must be 100 years old. Or wait until Australia Post determines how to ship to the US now. ;) U.S. IMP...

The earlier axle housing have a slightly smaller collar for the cap, part # 2510, nominal dia. 2 13/32". Used '09-''17. After 1918 the later tad larger dia. cap is part #2510 1/2. This is the avail. cap from vendors. So fitting a replacement cap one may have to use a shim on early axle housing coll...

It is for a 1916 Touring, here's my confusion. It is fitting to the sides of the Top Boot so it is mounting directly to fabric. All the fasteners I see have two screw holes on the base and those attach to wood. Which ones work with two pieces of fabric only? This kind, male twist sandwich between f...

The use of a tap is easy, use a tap to remove spindle bushings too. On my removals, I have an old steering post, the end is tapered, no fear of hitting torque tube rivets. To the threaded end added a std. bushing driver, from a China made set of bushing drivers. Nut fastened to the pitman arm threa...

“No, it is under the seat in a recess area which appears to be original and has a board floor.” He has a T coupe, when the seat backrest is removed , you can access the battery, but same is easier to pull from the rear deck with battery strap. Was same on my ‘25 coupe. T frames for battery have the ...

Follow up to Jerry's comment on this brand of shock absorber, haven't been able to determine mfg. These are pics I took of the subject shocks, during a presentation after investigation, as with any accident there were multiple contributing factors identified. IMO the design of a two-piece front sho...

At present, 10% is to be applied to all shipments of $800 or more. The kicker is there is a flat $80 charge for any parcels under $800. So my $125 set of stems would now be $205. Nobody knows how the tariff Believe the elimination of the de minimus free under $800 is good, as drug smugglers are usi...

FYI
‘26-‘27 Fordor dome lamp, original in place.

Info from Dean Yoder post a while back:

Center of wrist pin to center of crank pin is 6.998---7.002
Center to center of rod bolts is 1.811---1.813
Center of crank pin to center of rod bolt .906
This from ford Drawings

The below Vowell Art covers the types of black or black with brass trim oil lamps. Photo pic from the "Gallery". Click on that icon on right side of Forum home page. 827312.jpg The early have the round inner reflector chamber and note the lower rim of the chimney with the holes around the base of t...

Somewhere in Ford literature, probably a late era service bulletin, there is a paragraph or two about deleting the wood blocks on TT trucks in severe service on very bad roads. I probably came across it on the Cimoreli site, but I don't remember for sure. If I had a TT in severe service on bad road...

Might try if you haven't already the Facebook group on ALF fire engines. Easy to join, and ask questions. If you click on the oval icons shown, one not shown on the right is named FILES. That has the complete manual on 1924 ALFs in pdf format. Screen shot partial on the starter motor. IMG_9753.jpeg...

David Seems the plate is held in the housing with those circular like upsets, like small rivets. You might try to carefully pry the plate off the housing. That may free the internal spring and socket. Going back together some sort of fasteners will be needed, as the spring behind the cup and bulb co...

Made this quick chart for the later steering gear connecting rods (drag links).

Helpful for the later Ts. These are all forged ended Ford design.

Forgot about Logo Lites. Their line has expanded too, the bracket for Model A Duolites might just fit Model T accessory stop/tail lamp brackets?

Turn Signals - Logo Lites

Source: Logo Lites

https://share.google/op8ErKbGdjySLlWmf

Did find instructions for that meter.

Mike The Egypt Co. no longer exists, what they made were $$$ brackets, and the wireless signal unit was China. I have ordered the China part, think on Amazon or maybe eBay or maybe online. The brand to search is called Signal Pod UPDATE. looked on line and remembered in 2021 bought the Signal Pod f...

As for plating the housing, I'm not sure any were nickle plated from Ford, although I have a light that is. I don't know that it came from Ford that way. I also have an NOS dash light and the only thing nickle plated on it is the lever. The early Ford accessory dash lamps were indeed black finished...

To repair or replace the wire, you take it apart, first un-thread the switch handle. Then with care, lift up the two tabs on the backside, that allows the spring loaded plunger to get free. Reverse to install the spring, the hollow plunger, and the wire goes thru. When replacing the button insulato...

For that steaming Ford, this cap releases the excess

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Here's one that I took pic of a T on a tour somewhere. And an old advert. The Wiggler company made these RotoScopes. I have vague remembrance that Bob Scherzer (RIP) may have made repops. I got one of his Air Ford radiator cap toppers from him. IMG_1359 (577x620) (549x590) (540x580).jpg IMG_5796.JPG...

Reno Speedster wrote: ↑
Mon Aug 18, 2025 9:44 pm
It is a lovely gauge but does not work.

Thought you meant a Motometer radiator cap mount style thermometer.

Wayne, good eye. Wondered who would note that 1912 running board. The resturant is the Legs Inn. Built by immigrant Mr. Smolak who came to the United States in 1912 and settled in Cross Village in 1921. During the 1930s Smolak enlisted the labor of Odawa and other area residents to construct the inn...

Here’s a few! Having fun, great roads and weather too.

Lunch stop , note the threshold!

Thanks so much! I was beginning to think this was some weird collection of various parts, so that's good to know. Those steel wheels were just slapped on there so we could get it out of the shed it was in. Any ideas on what kind of wheels I should be on the lookout for? Found someone on Ebay that h...

James Looked at your Gallery ad of 5 photos, found under title Made It Home. Your T chassis is a mid-1920s, the engine is a 26-27, has wide pedals, cyl head mount water outlet fan, the rear axle is from a TT truck, worm drive with accessory Ruckstell added. That ton truck axle is hard mounted to a T...

Appropriately 2 1/16” - 2 1/8” opening on Ford pack nut wrench.

Being sure the timing is set right is something I check before helping new owners getting an old T running. Won’t hand crank until setting is known. Plus always double check the spark lever is up on the quadrant on your own T. Have friends who got injured by forgetting or were being distracted in th...

Mark, checked my junk pile but didn't find any old one piece bonded. :( Don't forget to cut the new ones almost all the way through at the back of the pivot point. Then, when they break, it will be at the pivot bolt and you can carry on as if nothing happened, just like the two piece ones Allan, re...

Quick answer is lots of issues if you only have a 24 complete block with 24 transmission, and no hogshead. Your 26 would have the wide transmission brake drum, that uses the late 26-27 hogshead with the wide space pedals. And your floor boards are made for those wide pedals. Your 26 has the water ou...

For difficult coils to remove from that metal box, try wiggling the two coils in the center of the box . Normally the end coils can be held by the corners of the box. Grasp the standoffs of the bridge, don't grab the point sets, you can usually wiggle back and forth by grabbing onto to the standoff...

Brent

No tricks just stripes!

You could have plain or fancy, care of Sears,Roebuck and Co.

This older post covers most of those questions. Your hose fitting seems correct and original.

viewtopic.php?t=15994

Perhaps to retard oil leakage from the pushrod action of crankcase oil splash.

Interesting video, using power tools. Neat if you are doing mass polishing! For real dull tarnished parts have used the ketchup trick, it works to remove stubborn brown tarnish! But for brass windshield for the '12 project, the brown tarnish was removed really fast, by hand, applying about 2 coats....

Since the handle is busted off, likely the valve is really stuck in the bulb. Plus the large brass nut has to come off anyway to clean or replace the filter screen soldered to the nut. So best is to heat the iron bulb around the lever and nut, you can get the iron really hot to near dull red and th...

Hmmmm, looks like I've been collecting parts for a "Sport" and didn't even know it. If I'm not mistaken, wind wings are impossible to obtain, so I'll be one option short. Sport Touring and Sport Runabout Fawn colored top boot, fawn fabric windwings, or glass windwings, natural wood or wire wheels, ...

Have success with my ‘27 running Champion 25, gapped a tad over .025”, with Prus head and the unstoppable I-Timer on magneto.

Fun Stuff. Thanks for posting.

Used to ride thru Bells TN on hiway 79 a bunch as a kid on way to parents cabin on KY Lake.

And had a ‘25 with serial # 11,261,xxx close to this one. And the model I.d. are fun, RC = runabout clincher, and TSB = touring starter balloon, etc.

Steve Jelf wrote: ↑
Sun Jul 27, 2025 5:47 pm
Apparently the bigger ratchet wasn't different enough to get a separate part number. The parts book shows the same thing for all years.

Here is the whole shebang on T ratchets from Prof. Trent

Click on link:

https://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/ratchets.htm

Missed that, was thinking only of the 2849D clincher 30" tire clamp used 1921 to 1925. The Y bracket is for the '26-'27 mounts that are on the body. The Y 2873 is for balloon tires, 21". The lower stud fits to a rim lug nut to secure the rim and tire. There is a flanged rim nut with holes to also ch...

Here you are:

And you can add a padlock to the clamp to prevent rim and tire theft

Trent Boggess did a bit of discovery on the topic of ratchet rivets! While on the subject of the starting crank ratchet, now might be a good time to bring up the subject of the pin used to attach the ratchet to the starting crank. When the forged design crank ratchet was adopted in late 1908, the S...

Those early Clum switches are rather different inside. This pic was off the forum years ago, believe it is the innards of one of those '19-early '20 switches. The large cast handle on the far right is busted off. Switch.jpg And once had a couple of Ben Martin restored early ones, the plates have eit...

Looks more like a “clown car” masquerading as a racer

And the cost!

That Herz timer priced at $4.75 in 1921 when most timers cost under $2.

Today’s dollars a std. timer was 20 bucks or so, that bronze casting and hardened steel spring contacts was the equivalent of $70 today

Stack height : 1 1/8”

Will be restoring the steering gear on my '27 soon. Last done in 2003, and now the steering shaft is wobbly in the bracket bushing. The shaft was an old original and when fitting the new bushing, reamed it to a slip fit. Likely now that old shaft was a bit oblong worn anyway, and fitting a new bush...

Henry had this special 33' Hacker built with a Liberty 12 cyl engine, both he and Edsel raced large wooden boats, with driver teams in the early 20s. After a serious boat fire in 1924 the racing stopped. The special craft was found, was restored and was sold for $1.5mil. Given the racing background...

Correct The 26-27 steering bracket casting # 932C (factory number) has only ONE bushing, at lower end. The upper end of the casting is a narrow chamber, just for the steering shaft, and to retard grease exiting the upper. The bushing is Part # 3545B2 with Factory Number 944B . That bushing must com...

Yes. Ford was electric spot welding since at least 1913.

Mostly fenders then, but when body builds were in house, lots of spot welds were used.

Ford Methods and the Ford Shops

The Ford Industries booklet

Earlier post on the 26-27 bracket. One bushing. 7/8” dia.

There is an internal boss so don’t make your bushing too long. Otherwise grease won’t get there.

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