MTFCA Forum

Allan and Steve,

Great work with the bolt based “rivets”. I do believe that the axle tube will need to be separated from the pumpkin casting to get a decent seal. I guess that before rebuilding the original axle, I’ll disassemble, clean, and bolt-rivet the both axle housings to reduce the chance of future leaks.

So the first step will be to pull...

Looks like the cheap argentina unit from the 70's. Had one on my first T. I believe pinto points fit.

The rain gutters for wood firewalls were not available until 1919...I have a 1917 but installed one anyway. They show up now and then at swap meets. Below is a Vowell drawing showing the arrangement. The arrow points at the gutter.

Originally they used felt to seal between the body and firewall. Any suitable weatherstripping is probably a good...

Its pretty common to see axles bent at the tapered end. I personally dont think it presents a safety issue absent other issues.

Nope… No seal on either of my ‘14 runabouts either

I agree with you Jerry. Good Idea.

Thanks rickd. I read everything there was on there, there were several pictures but not much actual information or anyone actually running one. I'll just have to try it then we'll all know.

I wonder if its ECO friendly.......

If you suspect that the blemish between the X and the B is crack, I doubt that it is. It looks like a casting flaw to me.

Hey Pat, not that blemish, it was the line I noticed between the bore and the G stamp.... but after looking at it closer it appears to be just a fine surface scratch. I wont worry until the block is cleaned up &...

Stockton Kansas 1915 Wizard Ford agency.png

Wouldn't you want to walk into that picture?

As messy as my shop, except I don't have the lathe and any other dealer repair tools.

I would guess 1911. The rear fender appears to be wider at the front whereas the 1909 and 1910 rear fenders were parallel lengthwise. Also, the engine pan appears to have the removable cover underneath.
Neat car regardless! In spite of the people in the way.

Thanks everyone.
I should have known about the glue thing myself.
I ordered Assembllee Goo green.
Have a nice week and hopefully better weather than here in Bavaria.
Anton

Here is my touring with a 1920 VIN. Has a starter and sidelights. A previous owner also liked brass. I changed the wheels.
24207.jpeg

Can't blame it on Sputnik.

I ran a set of ball bearing replacement cartridges years ago. They were great, slipped right in and didn’t have to grease em. The ones I had required trimming of the axle tube ends, same as safety hubs. After a few years I pulled the rear to build into a Ruckstell, but couldn’t get the bearing cartridges out. After much effort I had found that the...

Do a search for Tiny Tach. I had one on my lawn tractor and it was not affected by the mag. They have an hour meter built in too. It will look totally out of place on a T.

Thanks for that one Herb.

Too bad all five men stood in front of the cars instead of beside them... no one had dreamed that people would be interested in looking at that picture over 100 years later.

Gregory, great job on dialing that photo in.

Thanks a lot, Gilligan!

For heavily tarnished brass, use Bar Keepers Friend and then follow-up with your favorite polish. It works extremely fast, even if the brass is brown. Wear nitrile or rubber gloves when using it.

It's inexpensive and available in powder or liquid and you can find it a Walmart and, if you are in the midwest, Menards. However, my opinion is that...

At road speeds the car will go fine with the top up, but if you put it on a trailer, you should put the top down and if you have a boot, put it on the top when folded down. Especially so if you have a headwind. Don't ask my how I know!
Norm

Update for anyone interested in this thread. The block of nitrophyl from Kelch Restorations came in today’s post.
FWIW, its appearance is VERY different from the float blank I had obtained from Lang’s. Smooth, black, with a sheen even when cut, it does not resemble the grey, granular texture of the previous material. IMG_2952.jpeg

So far, no one has mentioned a “dry test” vs. a “wet test”.
Dry is “as is”, for a wet test, squirt a little oil into the cylinder through the plug hole. Wet/dry variation can tell you something about the condition of your rings. From my experience, a “hold in” gauge is practically useless when checking out a model T.

Ken was a good guy.🙏

Number thirteen is a nice 1914 runabout with after-market fenders all around. Several companies made similar fenders to upgrade the outdated style of the Ford car. Most Ford owners were too practical for them sell in large numbers, but occasionally we can see them in era photos. I have seen only a few loose ones and a couple full sets over the...

Hello everyone,
Jerry: The larger valves are modern style with valve spring retainer split keepers.

Great! Thanks for the update.

I thought it was the late Reverend Campbell that was making the stainless Tail Pipes.

Pretty sure that Brian Dowel purchased all of the remaining pipes from Doris Ann. Brian & I had discussed the possibility of me reproducing new Pipes and possibly Mufflers since I have a friend who owns a large performance exhaust manufacturing company in our...

If there is a pin to push the valve core stem down, there has to be a check valve on the pump. Otherwise, as Steve said , what you push in on the downstroke simply comes out again on the upstroke. On the inside end of early valve cores there was an external spring on an extended pin in the centre. Perhaps these are what you need for a hand pump to...

Check out MANTON Pushrods in Lake Elsinore, CA. They have an online catalog with many options. Will make whatever you need.

FYI - not all valve/handle combinations are compatible with all sediment bulbs - I have found several different lengths of tapers.

February 1925 to 1928 and beyond. I don’t know how many pages there are. But may count them when I get a chance.

I had one blow out while driving home from from a club outing. Next month another one blew out. They were about a month or two old. I Replaced them with Hartford tubes, and those split along the lines moulded into the rubber about a week after mounting them. I never drove on the Hartford tubes. I replaced all 4 tubes with new tubes form European...

Since it is originally a rebuilt starter & you are in the process of rebuilding it... can you tell if the marks were there necessitating the original rebuild. What was the cause for you to do a rebuild?

The main bolts are about 80 foot pounds and they are a lot smaller than the axle threads. 75# in my opinion is too little.

I'm most familiar with closed cars. There are a few originally plated parts on my Tudor that I rarely see plated on restored cars. Such as the spark and throttle rods and the inside door latches. Some of the suggestions above seem more like 1927 than 1926. You should go by McCalley's books which are the best authority for a correct restoration.

The last one still in use in my home town in 1962 was a 20's tourer with a later 27 rear axle assembly. The old fellows son's made a mess of it for a football grand final parade.

Roll on to 1988 and the Bicentennial tour to our National Capital Canberra and w.e stayed with friends for the event, having driven my 1920 backboard 1500km to get...

Yes, the 24' Gidleyford would probably been a bit of a novelty.
Odd chance that Henry would of cruised on the boat on the Detroit River.
That said, there might be a photo or two of him on it.
Perhaps some other Ford executives made use of the boat.

Kevin.

When I built my 1917 shooting brake with KC Warford fitted, I could not run the straight tie rod between the ears on the running board brackets. I made two substitute rods. One end mounted to the brackets as usual. The other ends were made to pick up the mounting bolts on the transmission.

Allan from down under.

KEEP LOOKING FOR THOSE PARTS!!!!

Every one you find, means you do NOT have to find and buy one.

I expect, they were all taken off and stored . All you have to do, is find them.

IF you want to get some part numbers: This is a GREAT resource.

I just bought two 440/475 21 tubes last month from Summit Racing, they were identified as Coker on their website but Hartford is what showed up.

For what it's worth, I weighed both the Hartford Tube and an old Ward's Riverside Made in USA tube, the Hartford tube was a little heavier, so at least the rubber is probably just as thick.

Thanks Steve. That fits with what I believed. By 1913-4 the raised area had been deleted. I have only ever found two with the raised area. One is on my 1912 van.

Allan from down under.

These plaques show different means of manufacture. Brent's is likely cast. The first is photo etched, as are most. The last is embossed.
Duncan and Fraser, Ford distributors in South Australia, produced a variety over time. Two early ones were photo etched brass, the latter embossed aluminium in the Ford T winged script design.

The brass ones...

Definitely TT stakeside bed, exactly like what was on my Closed Cab TT.

You came to the right place. You can also get answers on Facebook,
but the baloney content is higher there. :)

When I rebuilt my first transmission about 40 years ago, I had difficulty finding anyone that knew the thickness of new clutch disks to determine if they were needed.

A random measurement of what appeared to be slightly used original new disks produced an average .0485 measurement.

A random selection of 8 slightly used original disks produced...

Hopefully everyone is ok.

I live 30 miles NW of New London. Was taking the T out for a test drive Sunday, but
after seeing this ominous cloud, returned home rather quickly.

IMG_6120.JPG

Got the T in the garage and closed the door just before the storm hit.
No tornados but had straight line wind and a deluge of rain with hail damage.

Have we scared off the OP?

He's packing more air into the tire!

Missed that, was thinking only of the 2849D clincher 30 tire clamp used 1921 to 1925.

The Y bracket is for the '26-'27 mounts that are on the body. The Y 2873 is for balloon tires, 21 .

The lower stud fits to a rim lug nut to secure the rim and tire. There is a flanged rim nut with holes to also chain the tire and rim with a padlock

98057...

20250727_145701.jpg

Not an issue. Jeff

Do you have the shift lock off the axle housing? Look under the shift fork in the lock body. The p124 finger is below it.
In that finger a 1/2 headed hex bolt should be facing you. Its possible that bolt has fallen out or sheared, in which case a 5/16 hole is seen.

Now I wonder if there were two styles of Hammerblow timer - one with the apron and one without (late version vs early version or vice versa) or if the one shown in the ad that Mark posted was just for illustration purposes.

Yes Dan , the disc I'm missing appears to be second from the right front row, that is the very same switch. Anybody got a loose one? You can email me at reepwar@gmail.com thanks for your support. Wingnut

Just another tidbit detail of model Ts having spot welds.
The move to slowly updating the bodies and style of the model T, for 1915 Ford moved to a small cowling surrounding a smaller firewall than in previous years. Prototypes had been hand made in the summer of 1914. However, production problems stamping out the body's large side panels with...

Should anyone on this forum buy the body and see this, or if you have a Coupelet yourself, please join our
Model T Coupelet Owners Page on Facebook!

Will be restoring the steering gear on my '27 soon.

Last done in 2003, and now the steering shaft is wobbly in the bracket bushing. The shaft was an old original and when fitting the new bushing, reamed it to a slip fit. Likely now that old shaft was a bit oblong worn anyway, and fitting a new bushing gained some more life.

So got a new 5:1...

Jeff,

It's guys like You, Hank, and so many others, that keep guys like ME, in this hobby.

Knowing that there are GOOD parts out there, if and when I might need them, is a GREAT comfort to me.

THANK YOU to all the quality suppliers filling our needs and keeping us on the road and happy.

Thank you for the information. Your picture helps immensely, first time I have seen an instalation.

I have some NOS ones. Email me if you are interested in buying some. Dan

It's working OK in south central Kansas. :)

Isn't the Wosp starter an English product? Who ever heard of an English motor cycle that didn't leak oil! There is a reason computers are made elsewhere. They have not yet been able to get English ones to leak oil! :D :D :D

Allan from down under.

Well guess it is time for a short update.
While the generator looks good inside and after cleaning/painting put the casting that holds the distributor on and check it for output on my KRW test stand. That part checks out.
The distributor: The cam can be adjusted to any position, like a Model A but instead of using a screw and lock washer it uses...

It's going down under to David for his 1903 Ford.

Thanks Mark - yes it seems we have the same experience, must be a 'quirk' of the genny design or build.

Distributors are fairly easy to set up. Remove the cap and with #1 piston at TDC mark the distributor body with a permanent marker at the point where the rotor points to #1. You need to make sure the spark event happens just after TDC, with the crankshaft past the TDC so that when the points open and the coil discharges the piston will force the...

It is after market mud but I am stuck just the same. IMG_4309.JPEG

I have one that is similar to the model 720- illustrated. And two narrow ones. Plus one large one. All are available for sale. must be picked here in Minnesota. (Near Minneapolis)

Already own it thru a previous owner. But it’s not made like the original

Hi Grant,
Judging from the pics I found of Float-A-Ford's A-C, Stronghold & APCO small drum Auxiliary brakes should fit you may need to remove a little
from the underside where it can't be seen for clearance. The A-Cs I believe are available.
Craig.

The AC Brakes are available from Bennet Machine in Oklahoma. I got a set from Daniel, great guy...

That brass radiator has the top inlet 3/8th inch off center, but it is hardly noticed until you repair one with the part on wrong side out and then it is 3/4th inch off center.

@ Pat....'36 Buick.....

My dad had a 36 Ford Cabriolet, all period hotrodded... his pride & joy....oh to have that car now!
When he was married in '50, he had to temporarily leave it at his parents house. His 12 year old brother needed a steering wheel for his soap box go cart, and hacksawed the steering column at the floorboard. His parents...

On mine, the lens was loose and just slapped JB Weld over the edges. Can’t fall out now :shock:

IMG_9427.jpeg
(6v LED stop / tail lamp)

And, found that on bumpy roads the door flew open, a lace of wire fixed that. ;)

IMG_9428.jpeg

In my experience, the folded edge on the pan was a progressive introduction. The edges were folded down either side of the pan ears. When the ears were modified, the entire edge was rolled down. Some time later the pressed reinforcements were added either side of the radius rod ball socket.
The pan on my 1917 has the folded edge but no reinforcing...

While my early '26 touring made it to me quite original and unrestored without excessive wear there are a few things that make you think.
And not just how it survived being in a barn that collapsed on it.
Only body bolts #2 on both sides are 3/8 carriage bolts with washers. The rest are all the expected 7/16-20 bolts.
I can not prove for sure if...

I bought a flat tube radiator for my 26 from Brassworks this last winter. A little pricey but I got it in about 2 weeks. Looks good, fit good, and cools great.

Hey Professor... How was your ride?... Weather was great!.

Had a chance to check the triple gear pins?

72nd LBMTC Swap Meet will be Saturday July 18, 2026 at Cerritos College in Norwalk, CA. near the intersection of the 91 and 605 freeways. We will surely enjoy being in the shade under the newly installed solar panels! Put it on your calendar now so you don't miss it!

Dan... Many thanks again, appreciate your help.

All years '17-'27

#3006 Cyl head inlet hose (upper) 2 Dia. x 4 L. (Brass radiator, '09-'16 2 Dia. x 3 1/4 L)

#3944 Outlet hose(s) (lower) 1 3/4 Dia. x 2 3/4 L

My first thought it was a contemporary wheel off a Chevrolet. But probably an aftermarket buy, the six lugs indicating a slightly heavier wheel?

Kieth, Tim, I agree with both of you ! And I’m curious about the T. To me, it looks too short for a TT, but the heavy rear wheel looks TT. Special chassis ? Optical illusion ?

The camper...

Please disregard, this is a duplicate! Senior moment!

One drive around the block with an E-Timer was all it took to know I had to have one. That was nine years ago, and it's been 100% reliable.
Similarly, the ECCT with software is a must have tool for coil analysis and adjustment.

Hi Kevin,

Glad you joined the forum! Thanks to you & the other gentlemen for the kind words. Honestly I transport many 6 figure+ vehicles, but they don't have the background/history/story that yours does & it really gives me a great feeling to be a part of the journey.

Here is that picture when I caught you guys trying to step out of frame!...

Even if the tube are clear and it flows good it still may not cool. Over time the the fins are no longer in good contact with the tubes and can not dissipate the heat. As noted Brass Works is the only one making new radiators. They do have a back log.