MTFCA Forum

Your Jelf updates are great, but please just add to an exisiting post rather than making a new posting every time. Gets confusing and hard to follow!

Yes, the tank should hold water. The byproduct that will end up in this tank is calcium hydroxide. It is quite corrosive, and you’ll want to wash and air out the generator and internal parts well after use. I used POR-15 on the inside of the generator, which has held up well. I also line the lower basket with a crock pot liner, which makes cleanup...

It may not be 100% Stynoski correct, but boy is that a sweet little pickup !

There are adapters t connect the flex pipe to the horn. You can find them on

They look like the adapter in the lower right of Tim's photo.

Had a closer look at the latching mechanism, that is an ingenious piece of work and realy well reproduced, great piece !

Adam is correct. Wheels should turn freely with brake off. The position of the hand brake lever when all the way forward, the pins should go in without forcing or bending the rod. This can be done by adjusting the clevis either tighter or looser. When it is correct, the lever should not move when you push in the low pedal. If the lever goes...

The radiator pads are thick. I'm sure Lang's probably has the correct thickness. I got mine from Regan when he was still in business.

We had three 10 cylinder engines on the last submarine I was on, the USS Harder, SS568. Just after I got off of it, the Navy sold it to Italy.

:D :D :D :D

Rollag (pronounced roll-log) is awfully cool. Hugantic if you will. Model T's are frequent. Mine too at one time.
Thank you Scott. That means the world to me. Some of our friends a bit south tend to think thrashing.
Back in the day I could've given a good thrashing to someone Steve. ;)
Dallas, you had bundles in your truck? Cool!
Jeff, make...

Beautiful automobiles Bob!
That was funny Mike! You would be the lone dissenter! :lol:
Michael has been kind enough to offer to drag me out from under my rock and down to your place for a swap meet and I resisted.
I shouldn't have.
That '11 and your other originals are mind-bending! So many details to drool over.
Mike, when I see you next ;) ,...

Andrew

I just looked at your thread from last year...your results are fabulous! You've really put together a nice car...I remember the pix from when you first got it. Am envious of your time with your dad...my dad and I are separated by an entire country and would love to do such a job with him if it was possible

Scott, thank you for your kind...

Noah Stutzman made a wood wheel for me for a fat man wheel I already had with a bad rim. Red oak. Great job and very reasonable. It took him a while but was well worth the wait!

John Regan has, on several occasions, referenced a letter he found at the Ford Archives which was sent to the dealers in 1912 stating that. I have a thread trying to find a copy of that letter on the forum at this time. Check it out.

After looking and thinking about this timer/distributor cap for a few days and reviewing PeterN's patent app papers and the drawing, I have come to the following conculsion. It is definitely a high tension distributor cap and not a low tension timer. The patent application paper refers to the open window that has access to the points. Also...

I discovered that there is a little ridge near the bottom of the tool that makes it not flop around on a vise. That helped a lot. Some of the rivets went on better than others. I have one completed. I did only a few rivets at a time to make sure the holes aligned. I marked about 3 holes at a time and drilled them then riveted 2 leaving one free so...

I heated it cooled it 3 times before bending with a MAPP gas torch. I never saw it turn red. I just got it 'real hot'. I notched it once, bent the two parts together until they kissed then notched again to get to 90 degrees.

Josh

this is your second post about pretty much the same problem as the other post, except this time you are leaving out some critical details...like the fact that the car ran fine before hitting a huge bump.

1. Post a picture of your carb so that all of the guessers will know what carb you have
2. Purchase the MTFCA carb manual to see how to...

Be sure there is nothing in it which conducts electricity. Some things such as graphite will cause problems with the magneto.
Norm.

The haze is from minute scratches. I am thinking 1200 grit wet sanding followed by toothpaste?

Speedytinc, thanks. I’ll give it another try and pull the left end of the band as far back as I can. Perhaps there’s magic there. A Labor Day activity.

John

I was polishing an antique mirror with a buffer and was caught and pulled into the wheel. Stopped a 3/4 HP Baldor motor. Needless to say I still have the finger joint In a Jar. Lesson Learned.

Good news. The bolts holding the fender bracket screw into a threaded section attached to the inside of the body. See attached photo. Sorry had to rotate pix to get it to attach 20210904_145111.jpg

He is talking about the lever at the rear end as I read it, not the lever in the cab. But correct if for lever in the cab re the Ruckstell.

Here is the folding seat I have.
I think it’s for a Centerdoor, what say you ?

It's similar to my Centerdoor passenger seat, but the bottom hardware is a tiny bit different.

1914 to about 1927, carb was on left side mounted to engine with short elbow.

It is my understanding the the dimensions in the glass books will be too large to fit with the modern glass tracks such as the ones from Mac's, etc.
The new set of glass I just had cut, we fitted a sheet of fine plywood, and trimmed it until it would move smoothly down the glass tracks in the door.
The plan is to try the fit of them, and then...

See you Saturday. Hopefully I will have two other generations in tow.

I have one of these puppies. Would anyone be interested ? It is a pricey piece. I bought a bed years ago and it came with it.the guy jokingly said I bought the mount the bed just came with it. IMG_20210903_144903462.jpg IMG_20210903_144832868.jpg IMG_20210903_144804925.jpg IMG_20210903_144750397.jpg

Steve. Are You texting while driving ? Thought You were on the way to OCF

You get an A+ for cleverness, but if you don't have a stock T cam, that was quite an exercise in futility. A new cam has been designed for a VERY small pushrod gap and now that you have a new cam and wide open clearances (as listed in the manual), you've gained a noisy engine and have probably de-tuned the cam.

At least your valves will run...

I agree Dave, interesting how some call them Muckleheads , and yet others, like in my parts, we call 'em Muffleheads . Either way, they're extremely annoying.

Belt on px side. Oil pump in gererator hole for pressure mains. AC compressor on Px side and alternator mounted on top of compressor. All riven with one serpentine belt. Works great!

I'd love to see a pic of that install!..

Wife wants AC in her T (yet to be purchased).. I'd like to also see the condenser mount..

Cap

Like you say it all works. Depends on the application.. The lower the grit the harder it is to turn. When doing mains or rods, I use medium grit and don't bolt things down too tight at first. Follow the directions and be sure to add oil frequently. A couple applications doesn't hurt. Smiley face.

OK, I see the 3 v. 4 hole phenom. However, why are they different heights and the diameter of tubes are different sizes?

Just curious!

Spoken for, Thanks

It looks like the bridge of #4 coil was hitting the coil box cover. It’s an old aftermarket one. I could move the lid around a little and recreate the short.

Silly little things that drive you nuts. Guess it’s part of the excitement of the hobby. :D

I would expect to see improved economy and more consistent response to the driver's throttle, carburetor adjustment, and spark timing inputs... in short, a smoother, sweeter-running engine. Torsional vibration would likely be reduced in both bandwidth and intensity.

Thank you glenn

I'll second that Steve. I use very light springs on the alloy hood on my 1912 van. It do not require much clamping force to hold a hood down.

Allan from down under.

I had a similar problem on my '25. I wanted to use the early design switch that is held together with two screws. When installed correctly in the car, it wouldn't quite reach through the floor. I put in a later design which has four tabs. I'll bet if I tried to bend those tabs they might break off? At any rate I found a NORS switch, which has been...

Thanks Scott, Aircraft Spruce has been one of my regular suppliers for years. I have a fuel valve and sediment bulb that have gotten so hard to turn that even pliers are having a tough time getting the job done.

Paul

Can't help on welding cracks in zinc, as fumes from zinc are very dangerous to your health.

On mine, just left the few bumps and cracks as 'patina'. The repro parts in aluminum don't look good to me at all. So keep your originals original.

Just buffed the surfaces of the plates on the buffing wheel, then a coat of wax, provided a nice sheen that...

THANK YOU MARK, A HAIR DRYER , MY WIFE HAS A GOOD ONE, IF SHE LETS ME USE IT,I KNOW WHAT YOU MEAN THE WOOD SWELLS, I HAVE A BOILER IN THE BASEMENT AND IT KEEPS THEM HI AND DRY, HAVE A SUPER DAY.

Thanks for posting this.

Allan
It's ironic isn't it , that the good stuff we used to manufacture in Oz no longer exists and we somehow have come to accept that second rate throwaway is the norm.

Looks like you nailed it Rich. ;)

Did anyone on the Forum buy one of the tractor attachments at the Crosby Mt auction? Glenn

water lye corn starch .I am not pc

181.JPG

I got my check in package today also. Car # 220, Parking lot A, orange sticker for being in the Pass in Review, pick up materials at 6:30 PM on Friday Evening.

Keith

Got it... 5 it is.

David, I take your point about the thread starting somewhat deeper in the lug nuts. My concern with the A model nuts was that the length of thread in the nuts would not be as long as a T nut, and so it may bottom out on the stud before engaging on the hub centre.

Allan from down under.

Tool for cutting valve relief in prewar heads when put on postwar blocks.

Tim, nice to meet you at the jamboree..
I had gear driven type, a nickel’s worth of lock tite could have saved me grief.

Thank you Rachel.

I know first hand that periodical publication is a thankless taskmaster.
Thank you for your tireless efforts.

I failed to state that the car starts fantastic. It started on the first compression today cold. Usually starts on the second. I’m thankful for that

I took Sue’s T out for a ride yesterday. Great running car, very long legs, wants to go fast. Part of its heritage as a Montana racer. I put a KC Warford in it for Sue for the hills.

Here is a nice complete body...

I wish I had this 30 years ago...

I had a good time. I especially enjoyed the few original dwellings that remain on the island. It appears to have been taken over by people with lot's of money. I know I could never afford to own a place on that island!

I saw a photo recently of that Himco head. It appears identical to a Ricardo or Giant Power. They improve combustion, but don't give much of a boost in power.

On a recent tour, I saw a 1923 cut off that had unique top saddle arms. A plate, the same size as the rear striker plate was made, and an L arm welded or brazed to it upside down. This allowed the top saddle to be mounted for support of the top. Great idea.

Ed,
I had planned to have it there this year. However......

It’s incredibly loud and quick. I was hoping for a good pass in review moment. Hopefully next year.

Bump for another look

Everyone seemed to have a good time. Not sure why some pictures are turned and other upright.

Never have driven through a diverging diamond but here we have 2 lane traffic circles that you can legally exit to the right from the inside lane. A lot of summer tourism drivers aren’t aware of this. I refuse to pull my trailer through these circles.

The vasoline looking product will NOT restore the blackness of the leather. I used Harley Davidson black leather dye for seats. After you dye the leather and it is dry then use the conditioner. bobt

Jonah

In my new Berg's radiator there is a metal plate on top of the tubes. I do not know the purpose of this plate, nor do I know how high it is placed above the tubes. Maybe it is just a baffle to settle the fluid down. If I fill the radiator with 1 inch of antifreeze above this plate, I know there is too much in there. I check this with a...

I may have a pair or there may be a pair in a collection I'm selling off, I'll let you know. Kim

Allan

The one on left is early style E & J #6, used on ‘15 couplet, one on right is typical E & J #8.

I'm glad Tim came and had a good time. That was the intent and most people seemed to enjoy themselves. I do have a request....if you were on the tour and took a photo of a Model T in front of the Ford cottage, the resort association would like a copy of it. Please contact me and we'll make arrangements.

We had 40 people from other states and for...

Thanks, Rich

The key to using the second pump is the type of chuck you put on it. The pump has no check valve, and uses the valve in the tube stem to do that job. That means you have to use a chuck with no center pin, so it will allow the valve to close between strokes.

Here's mine. I suggest:

Trim the roof fabric so it ends behind the rail and is tacked in place.
Form the outer part of the rail to fit the contour of the body
Etch prime (for good paint adhesion because it's aluminium) and paint the outer rail. Satin black is good.
Screw the inner rail in its correct place - but then remove the screw near the aft...

If you need to have threads on the end why not use a piece of all thread or a cut off bolt and weld it on the end of the handle. That way you don't need to weld a square shaft and then turn it down to round and thread it.

Have you considered joining the NSW Model T Club? There might be someone in the club who has a 26/27 engine they could sell you.

I'm in the Parramatta area. I've got a 26 Tourer and a 24 Tudor you're welcome to have look at once the lockdown eases up.

Hi John,

Yes, absolutely considered joining the club - just waiting for this recent...

Thought the first one didn't take, will be careful! :D

THANK YOU ALLAN, I JUST COULD NOT REMEMBER ITS NAME, BUT READING WHAT FOLKS ARE HAVING FOR PROBLEM'S WITH IN TO DAYS WORLD IT BRINGS BACK MEMORIES OF WHAT WE USE TO DO YESTERDAY, I FIND OVER THE YEARS THINGS GET OVERLOOKED , AS THERE USE IS NO LONGER NEEDED, BUT IN DEALING WITH YESTERDAYS THINGS, THE OLD STILL WORKS. WHEN SOMEONE REMEMBERS HOW IT...

The TT needs to be filled all the way to the bottom of that rear plug. Leaving it lower like is appropriate for T car rear ends is not appropriate for the TT rear end. Also don’t overlook the importance of the seal at the back of the driveshaft tube...

Thanks - john

Ahhh! Thank you! Now it's clear. I misunderstood the direction that the fork moves.