MTFCA Forum

Nice photo.

Ross is the T-Whisperer.

Nice photo Herb!
Still using his gas headlights with a Victor carbide generator.
The hook type water indicator and vertical tank clamps clearly visible.

Yes. All is well, the link on MTFCI homepage, 'Technical Library' index is working now with all the blue hot links to the library collection.
Thanks Madison, the webmaster for MTFCI.

That looks like something for the fuel system off an early industrial stationary engine instead of automotive use.
Probably someone will eventually identify it.

Here are some images of the material. By the way Fabrikoid was a nitrocellulose material which is highly flammable.
1920s-vtg-dupont-fabrikoid.jpg
fabrikoidimprove.jpg

Take a look at this faux leather
Polyurethane faux leather.png

Wonder if Homer is related to me ?? I'll have check this out, Thanks

Good for you Richard

good luck

Richard

your last comment made me smile. Rather than go through a discussion as to what you need to do, I'll post this for you where Dan Treace did a good job documenting the process. Good luck and report back!

when I say no babbitt, I mean just a very thin skim left. the amount of play is tremendous.

Don’t forget, the model T transmission is either in gear or not. It is not a slide transmission like on the modern cars. The pedal has to be either all the way out or all the way in. If you have the pedal partially down and act like with modern sincro transmissions too much you could do damage. It is a matter of habit that you acquire driving a T....

That is why my T’s run both safety electrical systems, a main fuse and a VR.

Measures .275” x 1.5”

Odd size dia. Close to 9/32” but tad less, and Parts Books list it as 1.5” length but error on dia., as given to be 3/32” but that is clearly wrong :o

Sorry my email changed... try... larryrutt7at gmail.com

Got it.....

The keyway locks it to the cam shaft. I bought mine new 50+ years ago. It came with a pin with a large head to fit the keyway. I modified mine to eliminate the auto advance and added a tab to the body to use my regular advance and made a reversing lever similar to the Bosch front plate.

Darin
A good place to start on testing your mag is with a ohm meter. Check for connectivity between the mag post and the frame of the engine. You should have a small resistance. If you have connection then verify at the ignition switch as well

Suzanne is right about old Motorcyles going through the roof as for as parts and prices go.
As far as cars go Fords from 1932-48 the sky is the limit.
Comparatively speaking Model T’s overall are the cheapest antique cars there is to restore. Probably because parts are pretty much avaliable. BrassTs are fairly high of course but the rest not so...

Wayne

your observations are appreciated. thank you.

Those that did not get one missed out.
Just looked at mine, number 2. Thanks again. Dan

Go to the MFTCA home page and go to research. From there you go to photos and the albums. There is a album of members cars.
You then can see members cars from year to year.
Look close at the 26-27 pics and you can the difference in the headlight mounting. One year has a fender mounted headlight bar and the other year the headlights are mounted...

Matt. I think the electric fuel cutoff is a good idea. and have thought about adding one Myself. and since most of the T houses sell them there must be a market. I always turn the fuel off after a drive with the valve on side of the carb on both My open express and the 26 touring which also has a valve on the gas tank sediment bowl. I have had a...

Brent, that is great news and so good of you to post an epilogue. Thank you.

I have used a pipe clamp & vise to straighten things out. Leaves no marks and a long bar gives you plenty of leverage to move things as much or as little as you go.

Dan, I can remember when you couldn't even find that part! Keep it. You may need it sometime.

Thanks, I didnt think of brazing rod. Now to give myself a refresher course on planning carefully.

Well this is all a big relief. :P

Thank you all for all the help!

Well that is a gratifying and not-so-uncommon discovery as I can personally attest to. Good for you.

with regards to electrical, Bill has opined correctly that an ohm meter is not sufficient to ensure electrical health in wiring in all cases. Wires which have continuity are not necessarily capable of carrying current. Ohm meters really aren't...

I'm not sure how to fix a leaking shaft, other than to try to machine a new bushing to within a few ten-thousanths. Either that, or machine some grooves for o-rings.

Not a toolbox, but one year I opened my tackle box for the first time of the season and discovered that I forgot to toss the unused catfish bait. I haven't made that mistake since.

My model A ring gear was starting to move forward. I did not feel like taking the engine out to fix it so I tapped the ring gear back and installed a gear drive starter. Since it engages from the front the ring gear can not move.

I have used it for a couple of years and it works great but it sure does not look like an antique starter.

John

Ding! Dave nailed it to the wall! Cheap starts!
I should note that the '24 Dizzy hand start will usually go in two or three pulls.
Depending on which of the low to near no compression cylinders are lined up where.

I don't have any measurements to offer. Just wanted to remind all that tops and windshields were not standard equipment for most of 1909. Ford factory offered a few different windshields, and at least two different tops. At least one of the factory '09 tops sat very high in the back when folded down. I have seen photos showing a driver could not...

It was a beautiful tour! Great weather, great roads & great people!!!

Thanks for the info....my thought was... I have a 26 fordor, with a new berg radiator.. the fan has been being a problem, so I thought I'll just take it off which creates another problem, the belt to turn the pump, well I here some say that should go...... I dont know what to think, maybe I'll take them off, maybe I'll fix them... thanks anyways...

Hmmmm... I wonder why most tire manufacturers quit making all white tires in the 1920’s ??? Could it be because black tires were superior and white ones were inferior ??? Actually, I think that is a fact!

Did some Inter net searching and found a remarkable set of information about tire production in th early days
I just pulled off info related...

You're welcome. You might/will have to manipulate the retaining band a bit to get all to fit just right - it does move the exhaust !

Wayne, have you ever hooked up with the Cen Tex Tin Lizzie’s in Austin ? Probly Randy Brown of that club ever reads the Forum. He’s reached out to you before.

This has some info. Maybe not what you need.

A photo here of a 1925 which is similar.

and

To start with, get the MTFCA electrical book. Lots of good info on starters and generators in there. I have rebuilt both generators and starters, and its actually kinda fun and educational. All the components you will need are available from the vendors. One thing I do is to replace the starter or generator armature with a good rewound one. These...

Here are some fitted to the front axle out of a Cole 8-50.

040A0134.jpg

040A0114.jpg

040A0112.jpg

Hi everybody. First, Thanks for all the responses, I really appreciate it. I'm going to get together with Scott C. and figure out what's going on. We'll start going thru step by step and see where it goes. Then I'll ask some questions about my 27 coupe. Ah, the joys of model T ownership. Learning things little bit by little bit.

Would the TTP stand for Texas T Parts ?

I really hope I have a hard time finding a place to park!

Larry,
It's often 100 + deg. F. in Turlock during summer. Right now it's a cool 96 deg. F. :D

My worry with StopLeak type stuff is not whether or not it fixes radiator leaks, but what it's doing to the coolant passages inside the engine.

Seems like it's designed to work as a clotting agent of sorts. If so, why wouldn't it bunch up in places where you wouldn't want it to?

I bit the bullet with my 24 Touring and bought a new Berg's unit....

Thanks for the lecture Les.

You failed to add that the industry suggests a 20 rating, as in 5W-20 at a maximum ambient temperature of 77F. Just fine for Calgary. Not so great in Texas, as you have just said. I wanted to make sure future searchers, for the next and umpteenth oil advice war to get the total picture of how you have achieved this...

Bingo Jim!

The vertical wrist pins are even cut before welded. With wrist pins hardened, depending on tools at hand, that could be a bit of work to cut!

Matt

Got my Ruckstell parts yesterday and have to say the form, fit, and function is superior ! Thanks guys, great work !!

Susanne. When old asbestos starts breaking down it can release dangerous fibers in the air that, when breathed in, can damage the lungs and the body has no way of processing those fibers out of the lungs, so, there they remain. With all the vibration of the Model T, combined with the air generated by the car and wind from the forward motion of the...

The link above is the Billy who had made our gas tanks for years. I have known Billy and Ed for what seems like forever. Ed originally built our gas tanks. Billy was his helper from the age of young man in his teens early 20s. When Ed passed away years ago He willed the business to Billy. Some may remember I helped Eds wife liquidate some of his...

TRD your pictures answered all my questions I have the specs on spring leaf length etc and i now know what the arch should be thanks to all here for your help the spring is a 1927 front spring on a fordor

The only thing that the pan may be good for is a wheely clown car. Like said it will retain way too much oil. You would be lucky if it would run much more than an idle because of the crankshaft running in oil. Many problems will arise. Billy, the horse shoe/s are the u shaped metal pieces that the inspection cover bolts are threaded into. No not...

spider cocoons Just a little upper lube when the eggs get smooshed! LOL

I started out in a pedal car when I was 4.
And here I am back in one!

The car was mine, but I'm the one behind it in this picture. Love to have it now! :D rwlcar1945.jpg

You must have been king of the road with that beauty! Look at that long hood, with a hood ornament, even! And the rear wheel spats!!
DEEEELUXXE!.

Thank you, just had a gut in the shop that said the same thing, Bob

Good Stuff!
Thanks
Rich

As far as I have been able to tell from having rewound many thousands of field coils, all mag frames that have Made in Canada cast into them used the 3/16 copper. Further, on all of them, the height of the poles is considerably shorter than on US-made frames, so in rebuilding one of those you have got to be extra careful as there is very little...

Recently used freightquote.com to ship a KR Wilson pan jig. Price was probably cheaper than Fastenal.

Just checked my new axles and new keys. No go...250.00 with shipping and still don't have a good set up.

They call the 600w oil grease. Rear axle “grease”, 600W Oil. Heavy weight clinging type oil specifically made for the Model T rear end. I also read where some use #2 red grease on the bearings and thrust plates to keep things stuck together during assembly.

Yes, but this is different than cup grease which is typical wheel bearing grease. That...

And that should be a reminder to those that paint the inside of a T engine with Glyptol

I am going to investigate this material: or as a non-adhesive alternative to the suggestion of sealing with RTV. I really like the idea of being able to remove the firewall in the future. I suspect that this width will conform to the gentle curve necessary to follow the cowl contour, as well as maintain a resiliant and waterproof seal. We'll...

Getting the mag gap is a trial and error adjustment when the engine is on the stand with the pan off. Add the shims then move the engine in the horizontal position to check if if the transmission weight changes the adjustment. If it does go back and add or remove shims accordingly. You can do it also by just installing the flywheel only and then...

Watch out Tony- those ladies are gonna pass you one of these days!!! Congrats to everyone!

Hey thanks y'all! It was a great evening. Seems the humidity was also just right, I swear these cars run better
when it's humid! Must be burning the hydrogen eh? LOL
Today I'm working up a lunch tour with the local gang of our club (many live way out of town) for tomorrow, there's a great little sandwich shop for lunch only at one of Sandusky's...

Helena, MT

GO TOM 🏆

FJ

You tease...! No picture?

Michigan Jamboree, still taking registrations!

Dan

that's a great tip

Mark, the RH bearing should have a LEFT hand thread. Before you pull the hub, try adjusting the bearing first to get rid of the play you found. You will need to turn the bearing counter clockwise to screw it further in.
Setting the running clearance on the bearings taks a bit of trial and error adjustment. First, I like to wind the outer bearing...

To my knowledge, the only thing available right now in the “kits” is the cobra long grain material. I prefer the smooth material used on the open cars. As far as what’s supposed to be there, I have no idea. I haven’t seen a complete original truck with the original top still intact.

Brad

Thanks to all, got things more evened up and aligned today. As an aside and a possible tip, I cut some conduit to use as a spacer to hold the pedals up solid against the cams. Made it a little easier to heat and bend the pedals to their final resting place.

2B0E72A1-E745-4D4D-BAA1-55B827F0A095.jpeg

Bill, you have done well. That kind of work fits well with doing the best you can with limited resources. Even if you are a bit off, it's going back on a worn shaft, so you couldn't have done much better.

Allan from down under.

If the wishbone orientation is incorrect and not installed correctly then the answer to the tittle and question of this thread is absolutely YES!!
The gap between the drag link and wishbone is far less worrisome period!
Please be safe.

I use a lot of Rotella 15-40 in many engines but not in our stem wind model T s :D Bud.

Thanks for all the suggestions, everyone. I thought I was in the clear for moving it, but figured I’d better check first. I’ll be sure to tie up the loose dangling bits and then strap it down to the trailer front to back and back to front.

Lang’s list 14mm spark plugs along with the 14mm plug adapters. They are Autolite plugs. They list them on their web site and catalogue.

After preparing the rubber, if you're thinking of using them, pour in a packet of balancing beads. Way easier to do it before the stem is installed.

Goggle 1918 pandemic. MS Edna Boon interview. She was ten years old in 1918 and has a good memory of how it devastated her community. a lot of good information about the 1918 pandemic in her and other survivor interviews and articles from 1918. Ford Motor Company had over 2000 workers out sick and production that year was down about 500,000 cars...

Bill-
Although the principle is the same, the acetylene line routing for 1914 (and 1913) is different. The pipe goes on the inside of the frame rail, and there is a cross-pipe on the radiator with a T mounted. Here is some information that may be helpful:

: ^ )

Keith

Very good idea Scott. Another thought, maybe use a turnbuckle in the middle of the bracket to make adjustments if needed? Dave

My drool dried from my keyboard.
Thank you gentlemen.
OR
That was freaking awesome!!!
Depending. :)

This isn't Walt's car. It is an example he used to help with his question.

the car that the pix came from is for sale on the For Sale forum

Dan, I made a key for a switch that looked like yours that was correct for a totally restored (about a 1935 Chris Craft) wood boat for a guy in Texas.

I never saw the boat, but the key was smaller than the Model T keys and other wise the same.

A few early cars also had a larger key and a similar Model T key shape with a lower number.