MTFCA Forum

Hey Cam.
1000rpm crank = 1500rpm generator.

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I need one for this & one for my 26 coupe in the barn. 25 Tudor,1919 touring, 25 chassis . Oops I am running short!😊

A few replies - to all, thanks for your nice comments about my return to the sky and kind thoughts during my recovery.
Rusty.... Old Bloviator - gave me quite a chuckle.... It is probably a more accurate description---especially if you ask my wife.
Otrcman.... I had the knee surgery on Halloween and had finished PT. The knee had just gotten to the...

I got my fill of humorous buffoons, watching the Corvette guys itch and twitch about
the most micro-minute details, nitpicking the most absurd stuff with all the self-appointed
authority of the Spanish Inquisition. It was quite amusing. Sort of a cross between some
high school popularity contest and a high falootin' dog show. But with the...

I see a few differences between the pan in question and the one in the link Shane posted but all in all, they look to have come from the same place.

I mounted it in a vice and used a 3/4 drive ratchet to apply torque to it. I applied enough torque to feel it twist a little, but it springs right back. I do not see any signs of looseness.

Very nice
Good job

Michael

These photos were captured off this site, they are others, but as with any photos on the web, as long as you aren't selling the photos as your own, any can be used for reference. Your ad would just state, looking for similar oil can like the one in this photo found on the internet.

As I indicated earlier the lighting in the Craig's museum really affects colors. I'll have to check the pin strip color next time I'm there. The picture was taken with the warm interior lighting and bright sunlight from outside. Knowing Craig, it is was its supposed to be.

I can only speak for my Canadian 26, the door latch is 10 - 32, striker is 1/4 - 28, sill plate is 7/32 - 24.
The 10 - 32 looks very similar to the 7/32 - 24 the 10 - 32 is only .025 smaller than the 7/32. The taps and dies are still available for the 7/32 - 24 if you are familiar with KBC tools.

Using the org Ford grease cups/hubcaps you can easily force the water from your front wheel bearings! :D Bud. :D

Thanks for closing the loop on this challenge, John.

Have been following your challenge and it's great to hear of the positive outcome.

Joe

Yes, Walter was one of the 14 founding members of the AACA.

That tail light was used from about 1919 until mid 1924, when a new tail light was made that was built into the licence plate bracket. The new tail light continued on until the end of 1927 with a new mount to move it to the fender in 1926.

Great! While you are waiting for it you could get the magnets charged and doctor up a coil ring. :D

AHAAA. Makes sense now. The small holes are where the horn mounts. I won't be reusing this part. Thanks Charley!

The front and centre caps are different! I must go and check my stocks. I had never realised that.

Allan from down under.

Ford worked a strong newspaper advertising program with their dealers.
Here is another Cheaper Than A Horse add.
May/June period of 1908, Winona, Minnesota

I look at the classifieds usually every time I look at the forum. The forum is a discussion and question and answer place to go to. The classifieds are for
Buying and selling parts. I myself, am not asking what a value of something is worth on the forum as you can get various opinions or trying to locate a part, but I would not try to sell an...

They have a Woodcraft in Birmingham and a couple next door in Atlanta.

Sorry, Mr. Patrick! It's gonna hafta be the recorder..... There happens to be a Packers' game at the same time!!! 8-) :!: :!:

I hope you get it fixed. I've had problems with repro wiring, and have had a local company duplicate the original Ford wiring so it fits.

Scott: I fully agree with your assessment when using modern reproduction triple gears. The used parts method I outlined does not result in any alterations to the early gearbox, where there are no issues that prevent a full return to the original 4:1 setup, if so desired. As to the performance benefits, I don't drive these cars enough to notice a...

I should have taken pictures of the last 13 Touring I parted out. I know you guys would have loved to see that! Dan

When my Tex T gave up I took it to a local rebuilder. Working good again.

That doesn't surprise me. They're as simple as a Model T.

Oh no I am so sorry to hear about Brenda
I had the privilege of meeting Brenda in 2015
I am so sorry for to hear about your wife Mike

Thanks Leo

Dennis, those are an early version of the “modern safety hubs”. I was recently told.
No snap ring, so potentially you could lose a wheel if an axle snapped. But it’s still taking the weight off the axle and onto the housing. And no outer Hyatt bearing. I believe greatly lessening the chance of breaking an axle. Probably was set up in the late 60s...

Great that is a place for me to start. I was thinking Chevrolet but thought maybe the band would be too narrow.
11/23;
Did some checking, looks like at least in 25 the rear drums were 11 (id/od?) and would have had the rear mount point like most, not the clip like shown. Going to keep searching, maybe something will turn up.

Yes, I have done an exhaustive search for these parts. All on back order...

Thank you folks for the useful replies. I will work with the local brass shop and if that does not work out I will pursue help at Brittens or the shop is South Australia. The logistics are much easler when Lutz, FL is 25 minutes drive. Allen - feel free to forward my post to the restorer there. I would be interested in his comments if he has any.

Well that is one creative way to do it for sure. Sure like that old blue Roadster!

The tank will not come out the top on a '13 touring. I've always put the bolts in with the nuts on top. They can't come out, because they have a cotter pin in them. The Ford service book clearly shows this. I had to lift the body off the chassis on my '13 touring to remove the gas tank. On my '13 roadster, the tank barely comes out through the top.

As mentioned before by others definitely not a T ambulance light, but might be used on the bigger standard GMC ambulance, but i'm not very well informed about them to know for sure, could have been used on any US Army car or truck from the era.
All you can do is search the internet for period photo's of military cars and trucks of the day and have...

Adam

Those are all round tanks, early photo, posted a cropped version, and camera angle made the upright tanks seem oval :P

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After about 41,000km of driving over the last 17 years with only 6V, I'm still waiting for the points to wear out. And, top speed is around 75km/h on the freeway. It's all how it's set up.
However, coils I've restored for those who use them on 12V do have a shorter point life. You can tell the 12V users by all the black marks around the points.

Used until early 1911. I'm not sure what all the hooks and crooks were used for.

John
This is a common problem with worn Model T starters and one of the built in oil leaks on Model T engine.
The Model T generator has a similar issue.
The hole letting the excess oil drip out the bottom of the starter case was Ford's solution.
The solution is rebuilding the starter (new bushing) and adding an oil seal in the starter mounting...

Ed: You are right! I should have labeled it for what it is, Anzo Fasteners! I just didn't think that anyone other than purists like me would even be interested. Not all Anzo fasteners were used on T's, only some of them, therefore, most of the pictures that Dan Treace posted are not relevant.

I get one in Chinese about once a month. I called em back once. I am able to tell the in mandarin that I don’t understand Chinese but that didn’t help. It’s just a random call.
I have one that was bugged me about 410 dollars for a blood work up.
They just keep asking me how I wanted to pay it.
I told em finally that my lawyer is working with the...

No seal same as car Ruckstell. The sliding clutch gear and notch plate should block and keep most of the lube in the rear end anyway.
For the outer seals this might help;

Yeah, he knows how to work on Model T & Model A generators and starters for the locals and even stocks parts for them. :D

Sure that works when the engine is out of the car, a bit hard to use head bolt dowls when trying to get the head under the fire wall as well, if you have help to hold the head up off the gasket and then screw in a couple of dowl bolts then all will work.

Pictures of your cab and doors would help. Model T bodies and frames are very flexible. Is your cab mounted on a frame now? Make sure the frame is level, flat, and square and the cab mounts are level and square. If it is not on a frame now, you still need to have the mounting pads or brackets level, flat, and square before trying to make the doors...

Tyrone, perhaps a more important question is how others support the edges of the metal. I have two sets that I built a wood framework around the inside edges to support the back and properly attach the material. It ended up being about a 1 1/2 inch by two inch curved piece.With the compound curves it took a lot of wood. I have seen 1 1/2 inch by...

OP

do you in fact have an original (or similar) timer, or are you running a distributor?

Very different types of paint applications from the different factories of the day. Gravity flow painting was well suited to assembly line, Ford used that for bodies, and used vats of enamels for sheetmetal, along with drying ovens too. Later the steel bodies got spray painted by late 1925.

Other firms used spray painting very early, for enamels...

I have pancake Hasslers and AC brakes. Work OK

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Thats great! 😊

They were bought new 2 years ago and fitted to a Wolseley Hornet Special to compete in two VSCC trials then removed. They have a few off road wheelspin scars but minimal wear 😊

My guess is it is the very nice Coupe you have for sale. Rather than scratch up a bunch of stuff and suffer the damage and mal-repair a local mechanic will do, why not let the new owner take care of it himself? He/she will likely have the knowledge/tools to do this and will certainly be more motivated to do a careful and correct job than the local...

That may be how that non-factory drawing was made but that's not how it was originally. Let us know how that works out for you in service.

You will notice the spark and throttle rods were put in before the gear case was riveted on. You must cut, or better yet chisel a slot to remove them, and carefully pry the two halves apart being careful not to break them off.

That's a shortcut way of doing it but nothing says that you must do it that way. Reverse order of assembly -- unrivet...

So, with no stress analysis yet, our gut feel is that it's fine. The information is available on the interweb, including Ultimate Strength of materials, and calculators which can have a safety factor dialed in. I'm betting I'm not the only one who checked, but I'm betting also that it isn't many, either. It may still be useable after reassembly,...

I see it now. Hard to see the threads from the photo

Older post with similar image, cutaway T, claimed as 25 model. Used to have poster size version, sold by vendors long ago, don’t remember the artist name, might have been Asian. Just a representation, missing correctness.

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I thought this was going to be about Hank Lee and his radial outboard motor. I was disappointed again.

I had one very similar to that, but the two center drums weren't larger than the outer ones. I have often wondered just how that worked out for them. Probably worked just fine for what they were doing. They most likely knew that a flat pulley shouldn't work for a flat belt, and just did it anyway because that was all that they had to work with ;)...

It looks to be a Thomas.

At some point the area by the oil fill hole was built up so it could be used on early pre starter engine. If you need a second cam gear might have to have it made at least you would have a sample to start with. I don't know it the cam gear is the same for the clip/bolt on type but if it is could be a market for them....

Here is a link to the thread.

Thank you one and all. Excellent information.

:D

We Do ! This big guy cruised down our road & by my shop a while back second one this year !

Another way to protect yourself.
Get educated on the specifics of the car.
Ask questions like, what kind of thrust washer is in the rear axle, babbit or brass?
If they get a puzzled look on their face, look out.
I know this not because I have replaced them but because I have read it is vidal this upgrade is done.
I''m no expert, far from it but I...

I suspect the system is just a little over-filled. It should find its own correct level after a few good drives. Occasionally check the level and make sure it continues to cover the tops of the cooling tubes. :)

We visited the Henry Ford this summer. It is worth driving far more than eight hours. Over many years the staff has managed to turn an eclectic assortment of things that amused Henry into an excellent display of American ingenuity, invention, and industry. Of especial interest to the Model T folks is an exploded 1923 Model T, hung from the ceiling...

Great find Jeff. I was lucky to have the tail light for my 1915. Finding one missing sidelight was not so difficult. If anyone you know needs a pair of fork mounted electric headlight buckets, I have a pair, with most of the original black paint still covering the inside.

Allan from down under.

George

None on front, only the rear. There is less bounce with these added springs, can’t say the T pickup rides better :roll: compared to my F150.

Do have pancake Hasslers on the ‘24 touring and they change the ride to a baby buggy bounce, like those.

Here is what I had. As I said, I didn’t have the chart until long after the fiber gears were made. Got lucky, but really, how much can it matter? 8426490D-70A6-4AE6-BD9D-25F8A3DFB19E.jpeg

On an unworn driveshaft the hole has to be reamed after the bearing is installed so any burrs from drilling the hole would be taken care of then.
Don't need to toss it, it can be fixed with some simple filing.

It would be a pretty long drive for me at a time of the year when there could be a snow storm.

Have a 21 Center Door.

One of my buddies from High School, Colonel Steve Lindsey, has flown the Space Shuttle a couple of times. . But I don’t think that he has ever driven a Model T... :mrgreen:

Here’s a pic of us at our 40 year reunion last summer.

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PS. Steve was at “the wheel” of STS-95, the flight that took Senator...

I think I got mine at ACE. I just looked for ones with a free length, wire size, diameter and number of turns that was close. If need be, if they are shorter/less turns you could add a spacer under the cap to get the tension to hold the balls in the slots. You want them strong enough to keep the balls in place but not so much they wear the rods.

Problem is- remove more later means remove valves, replace gaskets, and another trip to the machine shop.

Thats it. Results thus far appear to indicate usa cars had a made in USA medallion, Australian export had none, Canadian had a made in Canada medallion.

I need to acquire 2 Canadian medallions, if anyone has some please send me a pm.

many dealers carry wood kits like;

The kits might be made by;

The wheels look like front tractor wheels that you could bolt a weight to in the 2 opposed holes.

:? I have had to use it more then once! LOL

I have read some previous MTFCA threads about the paints & primer and primers used on various parts. It appears that there is gray primer where the paint flaked off. So some restoration may have been done when it was last stored 50 years ago.
According to a lengthy thread by Royce Peterson
Ford used two japan black paints. The “First Coat Black...

As I’ve mentioned before, most of what they’re after is simply posting a link on a highly ranked, long-established site like this one.

The search engine algorithms place a lot of value on this.

The best deterrent is for the admins to remove the post. If the post stays there for a long time, even if no one responds, the spammer is getting part...

You might find instructions in the reference library at antiquespeedometer.com.

I did a look over on the Hall-Scott housing I got with these parts. I don't see anything amiss to say the notch plate I was asking about even went with it. So it will remain unknown. Up there with the 3 steel thrust plates welded together that was posted as to why . Only they knew and they aren't around to tell us. Thanks again.

Mark- if you need help send me an e-mail. dmcgears@yahoo.com. Did you get the wheel hub loose from the axle taper? if so, the wheel should slide out. Dan

Thanks Scott
Thanks dbooth

It is really sad to see this. The rear end needs just as much attention as any other part. When my Dad and I were rebuilding them, it was like only 25% of parts were able to be re-used. Just people before doing crap work to get it sold or something.

Hank

Yes they still hold them every year at the Tillamook county fair.

Moxons Motor Engineers were in High Road, Whetstone, London.

H. Pattison & Co built similar Model T & Model A based tractors. You can find a few photos of their tractors on the internet if you search for Pattison Beta and Pattison Super Beta.

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Pattison Beta.jpg