MTFCA Forum

If the engine is out you can sure see which side the hole is on in the bell, if it is on top it would be a simple job to turn the retainer. If it is on the bottom then the whole T tube would have to be turned 180 degrees for things to line up. With it on the bottom, the hole in the bell, things might not line up because of the angle of the T-tube....

Martynn, as always love what you are doing. I to wondered ,how all this went together. One small thing, could read from the radiator and turn your arrow around ? Arrow sorta looking like flow? Thanks and please keep doing what your doing. I see much of your art in the parts books now. Looking great!

Frank, I'm sure glad I didn't have any coffee in my mouth when I saw this, Yes , I would love to use this on Wayne even though he didn't build the car. Ha Ha Ha etc .....

I posted this to show and explain to Wayne how to post a photo on the forum. It is a nice car too, even thou highly modified. It does retain the engine block.

Thanks!

I love large format photography with a good lens. When you look at that picture full size notice how the subject is in sharp focus and the background is soft. Lovely.

I don't have a picture, but the rear seat cushion fastens to the rear panel of the cab through 2 slots in the stiffening rail just above the rear seat. The rear seat spring has small j shaped protrusions above the spring frame which goes through the slots and locks the back cushion in place. Good luck. Have fun with the TT. ---Chris Hansen

That...

C'mon, Dave, be sirius! :D

Then again there are these turn signals that fold out when the signals are activated :

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Kind of hard to miss.

Try this link to MTFCA it has step by step pictures and also a link to a video

I have a NOS 26-7 fuel line around here somewhere. It is basically an upside down question mark. I agree having something to bend it around would be a help.

I'll be there with my 1941 Super Deluxe Fordor. This year it has new brakes on all four corners and a new radiator so I'm hoping for a nice weekend.

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May I offer that my own stupidity no longer amazes or surprises me.
Sorry for your troubles.
Rich

I have posted this a few times in the past. I have changed over to the 5to1 gears twice, once on the TT that Dallas has now, and on the beater' '25 coupe that we have now. Both times with used gears and steering shaft, It all fit perfectly with no problem, most likely because everything was a bit used. I did use drill rod for the pins that was a...

Dave
My June 1916 had the brass in the top also.

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Two spots are still open on both of these tours. Please join us.

George, 1.5 of free travel in the pedal before it engages on the ramp, indicates that the pedal and/or ramp in the hogshead are well worn. Unfortunately, the cure requires removing the hogshead to replace the pedal ramp, and removing the pedal from the pedal shaft to rebuild the pedal ramp. If you can pull the pedal back with your hand, it may...

Dave, you'll get a chance to curtique Mike's tapes at the Speedster Reunion soon. I presume you are both planning to attend. Besides building fast Model T's, Mike is the foremost Model K engine rebuilder in the world, having had his hand in the rebuild of three Model K motors. He and Dean Yoder are the K whisperers, in addition to their Model T...

I have the same problem with the upper windshield on my ‘14 Tim. Driving into a strong wind or when a semi passes me going in the opposite direction; the upper windscreen inevitably flops backward. And I’ve tightened the snot out of the hinge screw.... What have others done to remediate this ?

The method above is for wood felloe, non-demountable wheels. Hub bolts should be tight. All you are doing is slightly changing the position of the felloe on the rim.

As far as the hub is concerned: if you believe the hub is causing wobble, you can remove the bolts and rotate the hub so it is in a different position and then reinstall the bolts...

The length of the drag link also needed to change (about a quarter of an inch) when that tie rod changed. But it looks like you already have the later drag link, so changing to the later tie rod might improve things anyway. Of course, I also prefer working towards cars being more era correct. But, that is me.

Unless the felloe and/or the rim have been worn where they engage, the lugs should never fit up to the felloe. I tighten each nut in turn, a little at a time, adjusting the runout in the rim as I go. They need to be tight, but not overdone. I check them after use to make sure they are set. After that, treat them as you would your modern car.

Hope...

If you take a magnet and put it on the top of a removed transmission inspection plate and then put a small nail on the other side I think you will find that the magnets field is dissipated through the cover and will not attract the nail. I have not had any luck using a magnet on the outside.

Yes, it was a lot more rain than shine, but as a vendor I did ok. The weather was ok until 12:15 & then the skies opened up and the rain came down. At that point nearly everyone packed up, as I did. I did notice a lot of empty spaces this year - maybe the weather forecast scared them away.
I bought spaces last year but the weather forecast was so...

Thank you to all the folks who stopped by the shop on Saturday, had about 26 folks, glad you enjoyed, Bob

while we are at it,if the frame has the holes in the cross member the frame is a latter one.charley

In the store of things I know that are regularly proved wrong, I've been operating on the commonly held belief that tubes can be used successfully in either 30x3-1/2 or 30x3 tires. That said, I have both sizes in my road kit. Others better informed will set us straight, I'm sure ! :D

If you read the add it’s called a coil kit consisting of 4 coils. That’s not a bad price for 4 coils with KW points.
Macs uses the word kit in several grouping of T parts if you go through their catalog.

Best results from valve grind with paste is for an engine with very good seats. If the old engine has the valve heads sunk flush with the block, then too far gone to do any paste grinding.

This '23 is candidate for fitting new valves and grinding faces of valves to fit the somewhat worn but usable valve seats. Could be satisfactory runner....

Most likely the brass carbs were clean and in their original unpolished condition when installed at the factory. Sort of like brass fittings as you find them in bins at the hardware store. Clean but “shined” up. As time went on they turned like any other brass fitting being used.

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FJ

Very nice....congratulations!

I found that when my T was not running smoothly with power the first thing to check was the roller timer. Cleaning the timer usually fixed the situation. But there is a better way.

This recent thread has a lot on tuning coils:

This stuff can get complicated with electricity, electronics, different types of timers, and different ways of tuning...

It may not be 100% correct but I think I’d be awfully happy driving around in that coupe.

I use both - paper gasket & a small bead of black RTV on both sides.

Glad to hear that’s what it was.

I underestimated the importance of that spring until I noticed the hand crank on one of my T’s bouncing of the crankshaft pin while looking at something else on the engine while it was running.

Before I replaced the spring I always heard an intermittent knock when driving.

Yes you are right Steve, 100% in reference to what a head bolt or a stud is capable of. Shouldn't have used it in relation to a Model T :lol:

As for a model T, as far as I'm concerned, the tension wrench belongs on the tool board collecting dust. a ring spanner and ones feel is more than addequate. Cold then hot a couple of times, unless a Z...

Looks like you done it right!

The car in the family photo background looks like a 1929 Model A Ford. The wheels are 21 and front fenders are late 1928-1929 A. The beading along the body belt line looks more like 4 door blind back,with two bumps and not large flat area, but it is not very clear in photo on my computer and I can't see the cowl. If the body belt is the large flat...

Thanks all!

I’ll start at the battery and see where to go from there. Yes the battery is brand new and I tested it already and it’s good. When I initially tried with the old battery I would get power to the horn and lights etc and the coils would buzz. I’ll try retracing the power and start with the ground. I’ll keep everyone updated, thanks!

The oil groove was the circumference cut by 1919 at the latest. I have two Ford drawings of the spindle bolt, one dated 8-7-19, and the other 4-28-22, both have the groove around the shaft, the older one being 9/16 below the bolt head, the newer one being 1/2 below the head.

Yes, I did. It cleans, but it won't restore a radiator that's shot. I bought a new Berg's. Sometimes cleaning is all you need, and sometimes not.

The owner of the restoration shop would always say “Slow down and think, don’t work like your killing snakes”. Another one he would say “If it was easy everybody would do it” or “It’s like your making a career out of it”. He was a true believer in that your life’s work needs to mean something. In his years when he was too old to work he would stop...

Yeah we did have a great day Tim !
Especially Bill, I think he was a little dumbfounded when they gave him the Major award ! :lol:

A little windy today though, no T today... :shock:

Thanks again Keith!

and thanks to MTFCA for a terrific forum

At a recent tour I saw a man with a tee shirt that said 6 Volt Guy Living in a 12 Volt World .. Says it all.

I did one once. Sprayed the ribbons with Dolph brand insulating paint. I think is was probably Glyptol (sp?) Then used cotton tape, soldered it all together and used the same insulating paint for the whole thing.

I agree it is a lot of work and now would pay someone else to do it!

: ^ )

John

Nice job! Like those dimples...will do that in the future.

Yes, lots of oil thrown, since the oil screen has that nice angled plate, larger holes would dump right on the bands and drums, and importantly the triple gears/bushings too. That oil screen diverter plate might block some of the thrown oil that would normally hit the inspection...

The bracket factory number would be for a touring, '15-'21.

For the neat dual lamp, Ford supplied a single bulb elec. tail lamp beginning 1919. Those dual lamp taillamps are aftermarket accessory.

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I missed the picture of the white boxer...
But it was a dog & pony show ... :lol:

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Saw a rainbow too !! :)

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If you don’t avail yourself of Facebook and Instagram
then you are missing out on a LOT of interesting visits
and vehicles that I document on a daily basis at times ....

This past week:

1922 Model T Pick Up & Delivery

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1906 Cadillac Model K Pick Up & Delivery...

There's more than one smile in that picture, and none of them seem really sad to be there...

I know if I had something like that car in MY shop I wouldn't be sad at all!!

Well thats where they will stay. I mounted them this afternoon.
Thanks for the input guys as alway.

Note: if you a stickler, the straps sold by vendors such as Lang's are not correct. They are substantially thicker than the originals, they have two decorative grooves in them which the originals did not have and the buckles are completely incorrect. They are functional but I would consider them to be after-market and not a good facsimile of...

Thanks Hap. Yes, I've seen this but I'd really like to view it in motion. No doubt over the years somebody has captured it on film in one format or another.

Cool stuff. It's a long way for me so I always enjoy the pictures.
Maybe someday.
Thanks
Rich

You're welcome Scott! Thanks for the nice comments. I love this car, drive it a good 2,000 miles a year. Probably more now that I am down to only two Ts!! Unfortunately I do doubt these tires will last 40 years!!! LOL I'll be happy if I get 3 years running out of 'em!

I soak them in automatic transmission fluid. I have changed one lining without soaking successfully, but next time I changed it the rivets didn't want to go in as they should. Change of material perhaps? I soaked it and no problem.

If you wan to sell, just holler. Saw one sell recently on ebay.

What you are explaining is typical of old engines not being balanced.
We're so used to modern cars and forget what original cars are like.

It can be corrected by balancing the internal engine parts. Rods,pistons crank, flywheel.
Most often when the magnets come off others of random weights are re installed. For example the exchange magnet...

Richard

EXCELLENT and correct point! I have trouble making the adjustable guides work perfectly, too. You can purchase any solid guide you want, though, and I have subsequently invested in a number of them. Very good of you to make that point.

After carefully assessing the situation and evaluating the comments on this and other forums, I chose to go with loctite 660 - it's curing right now but I believe it will do the job. Thanks to everyone for your advice, I always appreciate it.

Drats, I was hoping not to have to remove both rod arms, but it is what it is.
Thanks for the replies.

TO THE WORKSHOP!!!!

You HAVE to remove the old rivets - Dremel cut-off wheel then a punch or drill them out.

Sure looks like fire damage to me. The steering wheel is melted away from the spider, paint peeling off.
Looks like a salvage effort by all the various people.

BYW, the bolts down the center of the block (#1, 2 , 3 , 4, 5) holding the cyl. head are the most important to have tight, the space between the cylinders is slim.

The gasket is thinnest at this point. Proper cyl. bolt tightening sequence is to pull those center bolts down first, to squish the new gasket, getting best seal. Then alternate the...

Thanks Jay for so many years of great support to our hobby!

Respectfully submitted,

Hap l9l5 cut off

James got it sorry I did reply. I was on the road that day. I have 2 low shells, nice ones. Dan

Thank you! Don't know if the little bit of brass will be an issue, but as it is part of the crimp that keep the parts together I think I will leave it.

Thank you Corey.

Thanks oldav8tor. That’s some great news I’ll check out those tix prices
@rob Patterson Great pics. Thanks for posting those
Thank you everybody. Keep the trip tips coming :D

I'm assuming that this is available from most vendors ($12 at Langs). Money well spent!

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Not Driving it, I have the MTFCA glass diagram book. I want to change the frame to a 23-5 open car need the DIMENSIONS of the windshield frame, both upper and lower to possible refit in the existing window opening in the homemade wooden cab? If the 23-5 windshield will work then I will go shopping for those.

After I went to bed last night I thought also that maybe the pan arms are bent like Allan and Scott mention above. It should be checked on a pan bench by someone experienced in straightening them. It's well worth the money in my opinion.

Keith

No dope slap necessary. All three things were wrong and especially had you continued to run with the cracked magnets you could have been in for the BIG BANG. They could have flown off and caused great damage. Anyway, it should run well for a long time.
You did well.
Norm

Finally got them out, it was a battle but all the springs are in reasonable condition.
Thank you all for your replies.

I would like the brake pedal to slow the car about 1/3 depressed and lock the wheels 2/3 down. If it goes to the floor - scary.
A good stop in a T can often be made by simply backing the gas to an idle and coasting to a stop. Hopefully the hand brake never needed. Put bands in my 12 in about 92. Thousands of miles since and rarely touch it.

Hi Dave, Yes, you have a stud missing on both of them. The extra hole is for a padlock and chain to prevent theft of the spare tire.

Keith

Thank You Steven

FJ

Dave Hanlon is hooking me up with the right stuff.
By Tims post of MP cab, maybe 12 x 20 rear window?

Here's a couple pan pics. The inspection cover is with it, and at first glance it looks to be a standard 4 dip cover. Note that the wishbone ball joint sits on top of the bracket instead of below it.

Thanks for the heads up on the links. I had kind of done a canvas of old content and didn't come up with much in the way of going through one. I did...

The seat back spring in my 24 Coupe was painted. It had a thin coat of black paint on it. It looked like the paint drip dried on the spring. It was original to the car. The 2 seat cushion springs weren’t painted. They were rusted.
The burlap cotton cover that was under the upholstry had a stenciled black T part no. on it. I sent a pic of it to...

Dallas you need to come down yonder and play some time.

Ya hear!

All the Best,

Hank

We all have our moments... :lol:

With no oil filter, there may be a fair amount of that in the engine. Like said above, if the magnet is rather new, you'll get that until most of its gone. After that, it will diminish.

Use a good 3 corner file and recut the teeth.

The cover looks original, but it's one of Mike Lebsak's reproductions. It screws directly onto the oversize stem. The only rim nut is the round knurled one shown in the photo.

Moderators........not trying to turn this into a political thread by any means, but.......

I watched a fascinating video about a British research team drilling ice cores at either the north or south pole (can't remember). The cores were analyzed for gases and particulate matter going back almost 300,000 years. They found a massive increase in...

Are your drums gouged out or deeply pitted? If they aren’t or if they have a minor groove and are not deeply grooved just get you sand paper and smooth them up to remove the rust.
You can chuck them up in a lathe and get you strips of sand paper and smooth them that way if you want.
First check them for any hairline cracks.

Do not remove more...

Thanks for posting Mike. Even though I don't own a '26 pickup, I like to know those things. As far as the wood goes, Gator got me my wood several years ago. He got me 4/4 rough Southern Yellow Pine, which is hard stuff. I milled it down to 13/16 on my driveway, and ripped each board to the correct width. I rabbeted the left and right sides down...

Have used the Lang's blocks on two '26-27 restores, and the blocks are correct, have angled holes needed for proper placement of the hood clips, and groove in right place for headlamp wire loom, and other holes. They have correct height to fit right, and all in all like stock, and made of hardwood.

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On this one, installed thin...