MTFCA Forum

Bill, I just asked Jonathan Anderson, who makes them, what he recommended to replicate the original as close as practical. He suggested one coat of black epoxy primer, matt finish brushed on to get the original translucent type finish. That is for my 1924, so would guess black was used for earlier models also?

Believe it or not, at least when it comes to fenders, running boards and splash aprons, these little devils do a real
nice job once you get the hang of them. Dilution is the key, little trial and error will get you on the track. Here are pics of
some of the painting I did with this on my former '12 touring. Not sure how easy they would be for the...

Thanks for the input. Found out that they are 28-29 Model A Roadster irons.

What if they sit too high? Then it isn't a matter of shimming them, it is to lower them and you've got to smack them a bit. My point is don't use a steel hammer, use a dead blow instead, preferably a plastic encased one. :)

Having it right side up might help

For what it’s worth the remains of what I thought at the time was a 1919 Roadster had the screw on solid trim pieces. I bought it from a guy over 40 years ago to build my first T. An older friend had a 22 Roadster. He told me at the time the Roadster bodies from 17-22 were alike. I guess he was almost right but not quite from what I’ve learned...

If i were to guess, when you get it apart you will find a patch on the back side. Go ahead and drill a new hole.

Like Norm says, shift into low before going down the hill. The shift into low while moving needs to be done while power and load are on, throttle down and climbing the hill. That's hard to achieve when you decide that you are going too fast down the hill already. Shifting down at that point could possibly be a violent and harsh shock to the...

Beautiful hinge Hank!

Vacuum fuel pump, wolf whistle, windshield wiper. More likely vacuum fuel pump as the carb fuel bowl would now be higher then the bottom of the gas tank for under seat tanks.

Does it even get cold down in Florida? Around here a day with a high of 35 in the winter is a warm day. :)

Given the fact that many people dislike lawyers but always seem to have one on retainer, combined with all the ways to improperly terminate a cable, I suspect liability is the primary cause for no supplier stepping up. Even the mfg of one kind of aftermarket brakes will not sell any actuator with it and insists it's for display only...that is a...

Norm, Sure motor oil will protect the bare metal providing you clean the rust off the pan, assemble the engine and put it service right away. Most T's are projects that take long periods of time from beginning to end, things like condensation can aid in the deterioration. While we are debating this subject in the amount of time required to do so...

Since Ford gave no torque specs I just use the
Sae. Chart that goes by bolt size and pitch

My thank you to all the great replies. I stopped working on 1940-1950 cars 20 years ago when parts became so hard to find and I discovered Model T's They are so easy and fun to work on. I get great pleasure on hearing an engine start again after decades of not running !!!! :D

YES, Thanks for the pics Jeff!!

The pleasure is mine!! Too much fun. Looking forward to the Auburn swap meet!

Jeff

He's just tuning up the racer for the Montana 500!! I saw him doing a much better job of power sliding when he hit the Surf line! Ya, there was a car power wash just a short distance away from the beach there at Pismo.

WOW Another great California Dreaming Tour!! Thanks Kirk for the posting. The Mendenhall museum is really the most mazing collection of gas signs and pump stuff Plus!! you could ever imagine. It has to be a world record of some kind. They also have an amazing collection of salt flat record breaking speed cars and a wonderful collection of Hall of...

For what it’s worth, it is not too difficult to put a automatic transmission behind a T block. I have cast a aluminum adapter

2C3F3358-00A0-4C17-B0EE-AF9697910A47.jpeg A25AA762-3FBB-4F73-B352-388BDB03FECD.jpeg . Got about 150 lbs left that nickel this is not about that. This is about the first picture, I was asking is, has anyone used the lead test kits to see what they have.

All Four of those bolts are the same. Many times when I run into a similar problem, I take an unknown bolt and put it in the lathe and make it the right size.

Don’t give up on the seized engines! More than a few rusted up and seized engines have been saved or brought back to life. Same goes for T Transmissions. A good soaking in kerosene, diesel and patience will sometimes surprise you.

I got this one (previous post) unsiezed, so hoping for the best. block frost cracked in several places.
Got...

Easy spindle ID: the slot for the washer is always toward the rear.

Yes, There are still some spots available.
Just let Steven know you're coming, send him your $25 per person, and call the motel(s) and have a reservation transferred into your name (Mill Valley and/or the Anderson Valley Extension). See Tour Flyer. This will be a fun tour.

Yes, be sure they know they have to take it apart to recore. I was quoted a price and they came back and said they wanted more. Make sure they understand it cant be twisted and the mounting holes have to be right. Just some issues I had at a highly recomended shop. That said, You wont be disappointed with a new core or radiator. Best money I spent...

No one has posted photos of a true 1913 hub cap, which is slightly different than the '14 and later styles. So here is some photos!

Kevin is correct in his assessment of the different types of distributors made by Bosch. However, all through their production run, they only used 3 different rotors as shown in the photo. The one on the left with the T contact is the one most often encountered with a model T distributor. The middle one is of a Jordan car only and is extremely...

Lights look like 1925 Essex

Here's a good option from amazon. 9/16-18 Split Die Thread Chaser

Jimi would be pleased to hear that! LOL Sorry could not let that pass by. :lol:

Yes, one of the many 15-45 Buses used in the park. These were used starting in 1922 along with previous White Models introduced in 1916 and 1917. A few 30's models replaced these gradually and in '35 still newer Whites were purchased. The bronze yellow looks different in different light.
15-45s.jpg

Annealing brass as a general matter is a good thing. It should not be attempted on someting as thin as glass setting channel. If you are inclined to try it, do so on a
scrap or left over piece. You'll see what I mean.

Thanks Bob and Hal the photos helped.

Andy

In May 2010, Darel Leipold had a 100th birthday party for his May 1910 touring.

My father and I were in attendance. It was held at his store in downtown Excelsior, MN.

Folks from various car clubs also dropped by with their antique cars and had a piece of birthday cake.

Second photo is my father (left) and Darel (right). They have known each...

No problem G.R.

best of luck with your project

Agree. Drilling and tapping is overkill. A nail or piece of metal rod work fine. In a pinch have used a cotter key, a bag tie or Henry wire for a temporary fix.

Yes, this is the sheet, thanks for posting Keith!

Lots of space on that trailer. I'm working on one for the speedster I'm building now. I found a heavy duty homemade enclosed trailer (covered with 3/4 ply) and it fits the car like a glove. I will have to winch it in and it needs to go backward now due to axle placement for weight distribution. The rails are the remains of a cutup aluminum boat...

Dan,

Some additional items you may want to consider:

Unless you work at the Benson Ford Archives or have some special relationship with them, they will not allow someone to wander through the actual archive warehouse area. Some folks volunteer there and do have the permission to go “into the warehouse.” For a glimpse of what is back there please...

I was thinking that the slight offset alignment of holes in the two lugs might suggest that a pair of these might have been designed to mount the reinforcing truss rods that you sometimes see on rear axle housings,....???

I've seen them before!

IMG_0612.JPG

T rear hubs are mild steel. Front hubs are Ford's version of malleable iron.

May be just a very early 1913 with the last of the 1912 Browns painted half black.
These pics are of a local very original 1913 touring with B engine number. The all brass lamps are original to this car.

Full side.jpg
Here is the 1913 my dad was restoring before he passed away.

I have tried Seafoam and Stabil. Seafoam never seemed to do a great deal except maybe clean the carb some. I always thought the red Stabil was fine with the old gasoline formulations prior to oxygenated fuels, but is useless with them now. We've had better luck with the Marine Stabil keeping moisture from condensing in the fuel tanks in a number...

Great comments and I hear you both.
For me my T coupe body was found in NE Colorado with 1 rusty door and the rear section was a basket case.
It was cheap to purchase and was close to where I was located at the time, it was also near to the body shop that I wanted to try out.
It seemed to me that they could do nothing but good for it and it was a...

That's a good place for powder coating.

Two had been replaced but were too eroded to resurface. I will install replacement Nickel Chrome seats in all of them so they are uniform.

John thanks for the help. I put a metal straight edge on my pan and it looks everywhere I check. I’ve attached a photo. Also what’s the width suppose to be from hole to at the mounting arms. This pan is 22” but the frame and old motor are 21.5”.

Tom EC00E933-0F5C-448E-AEEF-E6A953A1E600.jpeg

Howdy, Bob. I'm glad that you and Tom were able to get your TT running. They are a special breed of beast.

If you want to know the ratio of your rear axle here's how you do it. Remove the spark plugs. Set the Ford transmission in high. Set the auxillary transmission (if any) in direct. Set the Ruckstell rear axle (if any) in high. Jack up one...

Jeff - a stock T should have gone up all the hills today in high gear and cruise at about 40-45mph depending on the car on flat ground.

Drum Canyon Road tomorrow should be interesting. Last time there seemed as if an US Army tank battalion had used it just before my visit. Hopefully smoother this time.

Well.... I won’t start an argument here!...

Sounds like this would correct for my 26 Canadian touring? I would also be a potential buyer.

I got it fixed today. It cost me $2.00. :D :D :D

Good deal !! Hope you didn't break the bank... :lol:

Eric, at the very least, I would lap the valve till it seats all the way around. As long as you have 0.010-0.012 afterwards, you should be fine.

Check to see if your generator charge is gettin to the battery ussing a volt/ohlm meter. Check the cable and the battery post. As mentioned, the problem could be corrosion between the battery post and the cable connectors.

Agree with using Ford parts if you can find nos or close roller bearings. Reason for making the new set up is the difficulty in finging decent bearings. I was lucky enough to find 4 nos ones years ago and have just now used them up on my cars.

Just realized that we posted this in the wrong spot. Working on changing it now.
Thank You,
Larry

Same problem,I moved my reed from just after the bulb down to just before the horn. Works great now

Glad I was able to supply you with photos Brother Mart.

I appreciate everyone's time and response. I tbink I am going to pass on these and wait for another one to come along. Thanks for all the help in identifying what to look for.

For what it’s worth; Most all the times I’ve worked on various T’s with “slipping clutch” issues, the actual cause was not a weak spring. The cause was usually mis-adjusted and/or misaligned linkage, or mis-adjusted clutch fingers. The clutch fingers all have to be adjusted absolutely equally AND the spring needs to be compressed to 2”.

FYI......

Well I am certainly glad to know you are there! Touring there? Doing okay so far?
Inquiring minds want to know!

Tour starts in a few hours! Here’s the basics

950069DC-9A19-4045-AEA5-9F940BBDF2D5.jpeg

Thanks Chris I thought it was not original.

This Anderson shell is original found in this condition, normally buy these and send off for rebuilds. I like the original cases.

Note the how thin the contacts are after running for who knows :o how many miles years ago when the T was the car on the roads!

2019-04-28 22.08.01.jpg

Yes there as a water pump that mounted in the neck. google mtfca; NIMS

There was maybe one other, the name I do not recall. I think they made a 26/27 style too, but most were 25 back.

Mel, The '15 pinion bearing spool had enclosed studs and the bumps . I hope this helps,
Russ Furstnow

Thank you Dan! Seemed pretty cool and wanted to share. Always amazed at the number of accessories offered for these cars!

He might get some interest if he would include free shipping. Average T folks don’t pay that kind of money. Yes it’s nice but————

Your 1916 will make it if you have enough gas in the tank. If all is in proper condition and adjustment, it will make it in high gear. If not, you may have to pow-pedal it. Either way, I would cross when traffic is likely to be lightest.

I have a late '25 Roadster (July '25), but sadly when it was restored some time in the '70's the tool tray and any trace of the brackets were lost. I am not sure it would be worth the trouble to try to fit them at this point. Maybe if I ever do a total restoration.

Good idea on the shirt George, remember stripes make you look thinner!! :)

I have always like your Henry quote by the way.

Chris

I heard that it sold for between 40-50k. Trying to get better info.

Tom,

Regarding ECCT capacitor test failing on all 4 of your coils. The capacitor test requires the point contacts to be clean and closed making good electrical contact (shorted) at the beginning of the test. You open the points during the test and must make sure you don't touch both point contacts with your fingers or the resistance of your...

Don't know but there must be more to this story then what is being told. If you tried to run a roller(?) in an Anderson and the roller got wiped out twice, I am still going to say the timer will need service because changes are good the contacts are now bent out alignment. That changes the cylinder to cylinder firing time.
In your first post your...

Good for you, John
Good of you to post the results...and don't look a gift horse in the mouth...if it runs, it runs. One day, you may have it buck and snort again and wiggle the key and blow the muffler to kingdom-come. That's life with a T (oh, and a good indication that the switch needs some work!)

Screw tool tight .....LOL! I love that and will start using it from now on. How's that bolt? She's screw tool tight!

Seriously, I'm glad you found the problem(s). The loose bowl screw was bad enough, but combined with a mal adjusted spark it would DEFINITELY cause problems.

I looked at the end of the screw handle shown in the photo below:

IMG_6479_2_2.JPG

IMG_6480_2.JPG

The diameter of the end is 0.580 and the un-threaded portion in just shy of 0.125 in length (before the threads start). With the ID that you gave me, there would be about 0.020 clearance for the threaded end of the drive shaft. So it would...

Thanks, gents, those 2 links covered everything

Sounds like you guys are having a fun time over there. I hope your king is doing well. Orange Julius! :)

Tom, Great story, that is one you can tell your grandchildren about some day.

Jim in GA, is that the tank I sent you ?
Looks like it cleaned up nice.

The resin process sucks it into all the pores of the metal by putting the item in a vacuum tank, and as my head is the 09 original I am unlikely to find a replacement, so I should do whatever I can to preserve it. I'll talk to the company and report back.