MTFCA Forum

Thanks Allan

I just went through that with my `13 touring. The body had to be lifted. It was not an easy or fun job.

They could even be late '10s. But definitely Hupmobile.

Larry and Hap,

Thanks for posting the information on the Shop Mules.

Hap, I googled your link to the Pan Pacific photo and found another photo of a brass radiator T further down of the listings that came up.

Link and photo attached.

Best regards, John Page, Australia.

My friend who owns this Akron-Hed unit wishes to sell it.
If interested please contact him at 260-602-5362.
His name is John and he lives near Fort Wayne IN.
btw...John and I are grateful for the comments and education about this accessory head.
Many thanks.

It's a little difficult to describe a procedure that involves a knack. _The knack of peeling tires off a rim and levering them back on is something I learned as a kid and practiced every time I got a flat on my Schwinn.

But here are some generalities:

First, you need the right tools. _These include corn starch (because breathing talcum powder...

George,

Thanks for having the wood checked out! I appreciate the help, and will let my son know what kind of wood to get. Fortunately Lowes sells Poplar.

Neal

Others may have a different opinion, but I find these copper gland gaskets can be re-used, probably several times if that were necessary, which makes them cheaper in the long run. Years ago, glands of this type made of aluminum (I think with an asbestos core) were available, and were much softer. They could only be used once.

It’s actually more important to have the pistons honed to fit the pin. Most T piston pins are way too tight and/or the bores are out of alignment. Correcting that is more important than drilling extra oil holes. If you do drill holes, you will need to somehow de-burr the insides of the holes.

Not Model T, but Model A.......I climbed and therefore descended Brasstown Bald in Northern GA in my stock Model A, much to the chagrin of those behind me (in both directions). There were many places going up that I had to get down into 1st gear, so going back down, I never left 1st gear. I'd rather be in first gear wishing I was in second than be...

When installing the above the perch wishbone, sometimes there can be a difference in caster the depending on how the wishbone is installed.

For example, after taking apart and reinstalling the front end of my 1917 roadster, it didn't have good or by the book caster. I took off the wishbone, flipped it 180 degrees and reinstalled it and had...

I have always understood how a differential works and that the wheel with the least traction will spin, but that is not my question. Given the SAME traction at both wheels, will one ( the “driving wheel”) exert more force than the other in propelling the vehicle? If this is truly a “wives tale”, I wonder what observation would have prompted such...

Besides what Randall stated, the only other nicking was on a Roof 310 cam for me. Nicked the rod just a little, then re-balanced the others to match.

All the Best,

Hank

David - As my epistle above was not wordy enough :roll: I really should have made one more comment in agreement with those who have advised to replace all those old 2-piece valves with new valves. If (and when) one of those old 2-piece valves comes from together (and one certainly will, sooner or later) it can do terrible damage! And here's an...

Less than a month to go.

OK, I’m a visual kinda guy and now I see where that accessory gas gauge is planted. But how is it integrated into that ‘upside down question mark’ New and Improved gas line ? I wrongly assumed it fastened to the sediment bulb.

No bushing on the spindle arm to spindle.

We all have our duh moments. ;)

If the engine is out you can sure see which side the hole is on in the bell, if it is on top it would be a simple job to turn the retainer. If it is on the bottom then the whole T tube would have to be turned 180 degrees for things to line up. With it on the bottom, the hole in the bell, things might not line up because of the angle of the T-tube....

Martynn, as always love what you are doing. I to wondered ,how all this went together. One small thing, could read from the radiator and turn your arrow around ? Arrow sorta looking like flow? Thanks and please keep doing what your doing. I see much of your art in the parts books now. Looking great!

Frank, I'm sure glad I didn't have any coffee in my mouth when I saw this, Yes , I would love to use this on Wayne even though he didn't build the car. Ha Ha Ha etc .....

I posted this to show and explain to Wayne how to post a photo on the forum. It is a nice car too, even thou highly modified. It does retain the engine block.

Thanks!

I love large format photography with a good lens. When you look at that picture full size notice how the subject is in sharp focus and the background is soft. Lovely.

I don't have a picture, but the rear seat cushion fastens to the rear panel of the cab through 2 slots in the stiffening rail just above the rear seat. The rear seat spring has small j shaped protrusions above the spring frame which goes through the slots and locks the back cushion in place. Good luck. Have fun with the TT. ---Chris Hansen

That...

C'mon, Dave, be sirius! :D

Then again there are these turn signals that fold out when the signals are activated :

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Kind of hard to miss.

Try this link to MTFCA it has step by step pictures and also a link to a video

I have a NOS 26-7 fuel line around here somewhere. It is basically an upside down question mark. I agree having something to bend it around would be a help.

I'll be there with my 1941 Super Deluxe Fordor. This year it has new brakes on all four corners and a new radiator so I'm hoping for a nice weekend.

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May I offer that my own stupidity no longer amazes or surprises me.
Sorry for your troubles.
Rich

I have posted this a few times in the past. I have changed over to the 5to1 gears twice, once on the TT that Dallas has now, and on the beater' '25 coupe that we have now. Both times with used gears and steering shaft, It all fit perfectly with no problem, most likely because everything was a bit used. I did use drill rod for the pins that was a...

Dave
My June 1916 had the brass in the top also.

-
Two spots are still open on both of these tours. Please join us.

George, 1.5 of free travel in the pedal before it engages on the ramp, indicates that the pedal and/or ramp in the hogshead are well worn. Unfortunately, the cure requires removing the hogshead to replace the pedal ramp, and removing the pedal from the pedal shaft to rebuild the pedal ramp. If you can pull the pedal back with your hand, it may...

Dave, you'll get a chance to curtique Mike's tapes at the Speedster Reunion soon. I presume you are both planning to attend. Besides building fast Model T's, Mike is the foremost Model K engine rebuilder in the world, having had his hand in the rebuild of three Model K motors. He and Dean Yoder are the K whisperers, in addition to their Model T...

I have the same problem with the upper windshield on my ‘14 Tim. Driving into a strong wind or when a semi passes me going in the opposite direction; the upper windscreen inevitably flops backward. And I’ve tightened the snot out of the hinge screw.... What have others done to remediate this ?

The method above is for wood felloe, non-demountable wheels. Hub bolts should be tight. All you are doing is slightly changing the position of the felloe on the rim.

As far as the hub is concerned: if you believe the hub is causing wobble, you can remove the bolts and rotate the hub so it is in a different position and then reinstall the bolts...

The length of the drag link also needed to change (about a quarter of an inch) when that tie rod changed. But it looks like you already have the later drag link, so changing to the later tie rod might improve things anyway. Of course, I also prefer working towards cars being more era correct. But, that is me.

Unless the felloe and/or the rim have been worn where they engage, the lugs should never fit up to the felloe. I tighten each nut in turn, a little at a time, adjusting the runout in the rim as I go. They need to be tight, but not overdone. I check them after use to make sure they are set. After that, treat them as you would your modern car.

Hope...

If you take a magnet and put it on the top of a removed transmission inspection plate and then put a small nail on the other side I think you will find that the magnets field is dissipated through the cover and will not attract the nail. I have not had any luck using a magnet on the outside.

Yes, it was a lot more rain than shine, but as a vendor I did ok. The weather was ok until 12:15 & then the skies opened up and the rain came down. At that point nearly everyone packed up, as I did. I did notice a lot of empty spaces this year - maybe the weather forecast scared them away.
I bought spaces last year but the weather forecast was so...

Thank you to all the folks who stopped by the shop on Saturday, had about 26 folks, glad you enjoyed, Bob

while we are at it,if the frame has the holes in the cross member the frame is a latter one.charley

In the store of things I know that are regularly proved wrong, I've been operating on the commonly held belief that tubes can be used successfully in either 30x3-1/2 or 30x3 tires. That said, I have both sizes in my road kit. Others better informed will set us straight, I'm sure ! :D

If you read the add it’s called a coil kit consisting of 4 coils. That’s not a bad price for 4 coils with KW points.
Macs uses the word kit in several grouping of T parts if you go through their catalog.

Best results from valve grind with paste is for an engine with very good seats. If the old engine has the valve heads sunk flush with the block, then too far gone to do any paste grinding.

This '23 is candidate for fitting new valves and grinding faces of valves to fit the somewhat worn but usable valve seats. Could be satisfactory runner....

Most likely the brass carbs were clean and in their original unpolished condition when installed at the factory. Sort of like brass fittings as you find them in bins at the hardware store. Clean but “shined” up. As time went on they turned like any other brass fitting being used.

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FJ

Very nice....congratulations!

I found that when my T was not running smoothly with power the first thing to check was the roller timer. Cleaning the timer usually fixed the situation. But there is a better way.

This recent thread has a lot on tuning coils:

This stuff can get complicated with electricity, electronics, different types of timers, and different ways of tuning...

It may not be 100% correct but I think I’d be awfully happy driving around in that coupe.

I use both - paper gasket & a small bead of black RTV on both sides.

Glad to hear that’s what it was.

I underestimated the importance of that spring until I noticed the hand crank on one of my T’s bouncing of the crankshaft pin while looking at something else on the engine while it was running.

Before I replaced the spring I always heard an intermittent knock when driving.

Yes you are right Steve, 100% in reference to what a head bolt or a stud is capable of. Shouldn't have used it in relation to a Model T :lol:

As for a model T, as far as I'm concerned, the tension wrench belongs on the tool board collecting dust. a ring spanner and ones feel is more than addequate. Cold then hot a couple of times, unless a Z...

Looks like you done it right!

The car in the family photo background looks like a 1929 Model A Ford. The wheels are 21 and front fenders are late 1928-1929 A. The beading along the body belt line looks more like 4 door blind back,with two bumps and not large flat area, but it is not very clear in photo on my computer and I can't see the cowl. If the body belt is the large flat...

Thanks all!

I’ll start at the battery and see where to go from there. Yes the battery is brand new and I tested it already and it’s good. When I initially tried with the old battery I would get power to the horn and lights etc and the coils would buzz. I’ll try retracing the power and start with the ground. I’ll keep everyone updated, thanks!

The oil groove was the circumference cut by 1919 at the latest. I have two Ford drawings of the spindle bolt, one dated 8-7-19, and the other 4-28-22, both have the groove around the shaft, the older one being 9/16 below the bolt head, the newer one being 1/2 below the head.

Yes, I did. It cleans, but it won't restore a radiator that's shot. I bought a new Berg's. Sometimes cleaning is all you need, and sometimes not.

The owner of the restoration shop would always say “Slow down and think, don’t work like your killing snakes”. Another one he would say “If it was easy everybody would do it” or “It’s like your making a career out of it”. He was a true believer in that your life’s work needs to mean something. In his years when he was too old to work he would stop...

Yeah we did have a great day Tim !
Especially Bill, I think he was a little dumbfounded when they gave him the Major award ! :lol:

A little windy today though, no T today... :shock:

Thanks again Keith!

and thanks to MTFCA for a terrific forum

At a recent tour I saw a man with a tee shirt that said 6 Volt Guy Living in a 12 Volt World .. Says it all.

I did one once. Sprayed the ribbons with Dolph brand insulating paint. I think is was probably Glyptol (sp?) Then used cotton tape, soldered it all together and used the same insulating paint for the whole thing.

I agree it is a lot of work and now would pay someone else to do it!

: ^ )

John

Nice job! Like those dimples...will do that in the future.

Yes, lots of oil thrown, since the oil screen has that nice angled plate, larger holes would dump right on the bands and drums, and importantly the triple gears/bushings too. That oil screen diverter plate might block some of the thrown oil that would normally hit the inspection...

The bracket factory number would be for a touring, '15-'21.

For the neat dual lamp, Ford supplied a single bulb elec. tail lamp beginning 1919. Those dual lamp taillamps are aftermarket accessory.

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I missed the picture of the white boxer...
But it was a dog & pony show ... :lol:

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Saw a rainbow too !! :)

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If you don’t avail yourself of Facebook and Instagram
then you are missing out on a LOT of interesting visits
and vehicles that I document on a daily basis at times ....

This past week:

1922 Model T Pick Up & Delivery

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1906 Cadillac Model K Pick Up & Delivery...

There's more than one smile in that picture, and none of them seem really sad to be there...

I know if I had something like that car in MY shop I wouldn't be sad at all!!

Well thats where they will stay. I mounted them this afternoon.
Thanks for the input guys as alway.

Note: if you a stickler, the straps sold by vendors such as Lang's are not correct. They are substantially thicker than the originals, they have two decorative grooves in them which the originals did not have and the buckles are completely incorrect. They are functional but I would consider them to be after-market and not a good facsimile of...

Thanks Hap. Yes, I've seen this but I'd really like to view it in motion. No doubt over the years somebody has captured it on film in one format or another.

Cool stuff. It's a long way for me so I always enjoy the pictures.
Maybe someday.
Thanks
Rich

You're welcome Scott! Thanks for the nice comments. I love this car, drive it a good 2,000 miles a year. Probably more now that I am down to only two Ts!! Unfortunately I do doubt these tires will last 40 years!!! LOL I'll be happy if I get 3 years running out of 'em!

I soak them in automatic transmission fluid. I have changed one lining without soaking successfully, but next time I changed it the rivets didn't want to go in as they should. Change of material perhaps? I soaked it and no problem.

If you wan to sell, just holler. Saw one sell recently on ebay.

What you are explaining is typical of old engines not being balanced.
We're so used to modern cars and forget what original cars are like.

It can be corrected by balancing the internal engine parts. Rods,pistons crank, flywheel.
Most often when the magnets come off others of random weights are re installed. For example the exchange magnet...

Richard

EXCELLENT and correct point! I have trouble making the adjustable guides work perfectly, too. You can purchase any solid guide you want, though, and I have subsequently invested in a number of them. Very good of you to make that point.

After carefully assessing the situation and evaluating the comments on this and other forums, I chose to go with loctite 660 - it's curing right now but I believe it will do the job. Thanks to everyone for your advice, I always appreciate it.

Drats, I was hoping not to have to remove both rod arms, but it is what it is.
Thanks for the replies.

TO THE WORKSHOP!!!!

You HAVE to remove the old rivets - Dremel cut-off wheel then a punch or drill them out.

Sure looks like fire damage to me. The steering wheel is melted away from the spider, paint peeling off.
Looks like a salvage effort by all the various people.

BYW, the bolts down the center of the block (#1, 2 , 3 , 4, 5) holding the cyl. head are the most important to have tight, the space between the cylinders is slim.

The gasket is thinnest at this point. Proper cyl. bolt tightening sequence is to pull those center bolts down first, to squish the new gasket, getting best seal. Then alternate the...

Thanks Jay for so many years of great support to our hobby!

Respectfully submitted,

Hap l9l5 cut off

James got it sorry I did reply. I was on the road that day. I have 2 low shells, nice ones. Dan

Thank you! Don't know if the little bit of brass will be an issue, but as it is part of the crimp that keep the parts together I think I will leave it.

Thank you Corey.

Thanks oldav8tor. That’s some great news I’ll check out those tix prices
@rob Patterson Great pics. Thanks for posting those
Thank you everybody. Keep the trip tips coming :D

I'm assuming that this is available from most vendors ($12 at Langs). Money well spent!

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