MTFCA Forum

Stu Tomlinson texted me about how great this tour is. Great to see Ed and Karen.

In general the casting are more prone to cracking than a rajo or fronty. The rocker arm base/mounts are prone to breaking.

I find it interesting that the Speedometer wrench is listed on an April 1912 tool list.
I though the threaded speedometer pinion gear nut was a feature for 1911 only?

Speedometer wrench and nut.jpg

Welcome. All clubs in Michigan are associated with the MTFCI - two, Piquette and Northern Michigan T's are affiliated with the MTFCA as well. Looking at the chapter listings I found this in your area:
Model T Flivver's
Roger Hoheneder
N 2705 River Dr.
Wallace, MI 49893
A great Wisconsin club (although not too near to you) is the Dairyland Tin...

The MTFCI has Model T Flivver's c/o Roger Hoheneder N 2705 River Dr. Wallace, MI 49893

Not real close but a great MTFCA Wisconsin Club Dairyland Tin Lizzies c/o Pete Humphrey West Bend, WI 53095-8744 (google them)

Note: All Michigan clubs are affiliated with the MTFCI, two are jointly associated with the MTFCA (Piquette and N. Michigan T's.) The...

I use Vaovoline synthetic from Walmart. Everything in my T is stock except Kevlar bands. I have not experienced problems with the oil. At least not anymore than with other oils except that there is much less sludge in the crankcase than with the pariffin based oils.
Norm

Not sure of the wording, but I do have a color cross section of this assembly that shows the placement of this hole quite clearly and its alignment with Grease/Dope Cup 2545.

1922-1927.jpg

How did you fit the replacement bushing?
Is it a split steel bushing like the originals?
If it is a new bronze bushing, was it machined down on the OD so it could be easily worked home?

Allan from down under.

Drain it, just a thought.

Yes, I believe round and pointy is right. You may not need to buy a new needle:

Ok, that is exactly the sort of solution I would imagine the Model T guys would come up with. I like it.

It might be the angle of the photo or snow on the core, but that radiator looks to have the cooling fins removed. Screenshot (213).png

Richard, I still haven't tackled the top as yet, if you were referring to my car. Getting close and looking for the right person in my area to install the top. I have some pretty serious back problems so it is hard to do the gymnastics associated with that work. Back surgery in the near future. I have a Classtique top kit that looks like it will...

PayPal to Friends & Family should only be used when you know the other party. With respect to the Forum its easy to recognize frequent users & see how long they have been a member to add some confidence in using PayPal to send them funds & receive items more quickly. Checks take to to be delivered, can get lost in the mail, & the seller should...

Good news!..

The ones I have seen Morgan used a rubber wheel as you are stating with light spring pressure from an arm. Turned out it was pretty accurate.

Some previous owner painted the rear drums on my T with whatever. I only have the brakes that the car left the factory with, and have owned it for almost 15 years; I only use the parking brake to park. The outside of the drums look fine. As has been said, if you have some kind of an auxiliary brake that contacts outside of the drum, I would not...

TT Shackle with Ford script on the nut.

IMG_4481.jpeg

Left spring with script

IMG_2393.jpeg

Ford advertised a running listing of all the T parts marked with script!

Ford script parts copy.jpg

I have a HCCT you are welcome to use to test them with in Tiffin Ohio.

There is NO EQUAL to the man, his way of doing business, and the care and concern he has for customer’s cars and his equipment.
Y’all will never be disappointed with Bill Squires. He is Family to MTFCA and Car Owners!

I went through this a few years back. I built the area back up with weld and then used a die grinder to get it back to the original geometry. It’s been working fine since.

I started a thread here (Rejuvenating cam on clutch pedal) but I didn’t post photos of the result. I’ll see if I can find photos of the finished part.

I believe the splash shields on all body styles were the same in 1913.

I'm surprised you can still get one. I wonder what else uses that size?

The weather held out and it was a really cool adventure. Thanks Joe & Tami for putting this together! What a great group of people. You all are what makes this hobby so special to be a part of!

Nota my Channel, musta be a youa Channel.

In late 24 firewall was modified with that lower oval hole, then in 25 the choke bell crank was deleted and the new “26” style combo choke and carb adj u-joint swivel on the NH carb used that oval hole. These 25s fitted with that carb setup just prior to the Improved Car for 26 model year.

Henry’s constant design changes ;)

IMG_9319.jpeg

Looks like they had a good day grouse hunting. Looking at the shotguns, wondering if the pump was amodel 97 but it doesn't look right. The middle gun with the hammers is similar to my great grandad and still with someone in the family.

This old Giant Equipment brochure was posted on Facebook back in may. Judging by the early phone number it’s 1950s, since they changed to the 7 digit phone numbers in 1958-59.

IMG_6143.jpeg

Thanks all. I bought a 12V battery.

As many times as I've driven across Missouri, I haven't made it to Appleton City yet.
Maybe someday.

Zink Motors.png

I don't know specifically what they are, other than being T-based speedsters.

The original poster specifically inquired about Mercury, Paco, or similar period correct speedsters.
Not T-based speedsters, as a general category.

There is a complete 1909 REO car for sale in Montana. It is a Vanderbrink Auction. here is the link to the auction. I also have it in a separate thread here in the Forum.

It is lot # 303M

Sherman is a little over an hour from me. I'm listed in both magazines, or a family member is. Have them give me a call, or send a text through here. Charlie

Here are some links to previous discussions to add to some confusion
Dave Sosnoski researching handles
Differences
Regulator for 1926 to 1931

Thanks Frank for posting the links. The last one was to my own old post in 2011. I had forgotten about that post. It's Hell to get old.

My apologies - I meant long gone as in retired ! Erik B. would know if he's still on the planet.

I've seen the B tanks hung from the rear cross member of the frame, if that's any help whatsoever. (Not on Model T's, of course)

It was a long time ago, but if I recall correctly? These can be easily adapted to fit and work on a model T car. The biggest problem is that the magneto sits out somewhat beyond the outside of the frame rail. Not much of a problem for some speedsters, however a stock bodied car with stock hood has a real problem with the aesthetics.
The other main...

Fuse was the problem! A visual said element was not blown but ohm reading proved otherwise. Because of gen/ voltage reg problems, I have 6 v alternator on there now.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but these rims were a one year (1919) deal. Then Ford went to the rims with integral lugs. These rims are also used on Buffalo Disc wheels, but with a heavy retainer ring that went around the entire rim and the retainer ring was held in place with 4 lug bolts. Just FYI...........

What a great picture of an Aussie T. I like the water bag location

The tube shifting in the tyre happens when the tyre is underinflated. The valve stem hole in the rim and the same in the felloe will tend to hold the valve stem vertical, so when the tube wants to shift it will tend to tear away from the stem. The same can happen with metal stem tubes. The correct tyre pressure is the answer.

On a 21 flat based...

When I repaired our fenders, i replaced the wire and put a bead undernaeth the cracks. Saw my uncle do that on a VW Beetle. The insurance man said that after an accident that it needed a bead to reinforce the area. He said that too soon, as the bead was already there.

This page about cooling and flushing may help:

These videos show flushing:

I sent two of those otherwise great shape coils to someone in the mid-west to rebuild.

When I asked about them two years later, I was told they needed new points and none were available.

Evidently there are still no points available!

When I restored my Model N, I used the original Heinze coils. They all needed new points. I think RV may made...

In the front pages of club magazine.

Thanks Kim!

Here's my work in progress....still need to add the springs, retainers and pins....but the more I look at this and the further I go, I am starting to see that I'm going to have to add a few things I hadn't planed on (cross sections of a valve line....the relationship of the valve to guide position in block, to spring, retainer, pin,...

Thanks much!

I ended up putting a 90* on the backside of the intake.

It's not visible except for the vacuum hose, if I were to plug it, at the 90 or with the 90 removed. it would not be visible at all.

Eagads, loctite instead of safety wire?!

maybe this is what you are looking for?

Spent the day touring with the love birds, July 5th. It was amazing to see the both of them sitting side by side enjoying their time together with their model t friends. You could tell just being around them they are still the young couple in love.

just sayin'

frontyboy

An old radiator man told me to use ground ginger, I have used it on many vehicles and it always works. Those seal tabs that come with a new GM water pump are ground ginger, I some times find it at the Dollar Store, I use about 1/2 a jar (about 3 1/2 in tall) for a T. Put it in a hot engine and dissolve it in a cup of hot water before adding and...

I see what you mean, might it be better then to make an adapter bracket that basically does a 90 degree turn to put 3 bolt holes on the top but still use the side mount?

Thanks for the offers. We will retrieve the car and trailer tomorrow and bring it home to KY!

After days of playing with it, I answered my own question. The passenger latch does not lock from the inside as they purposefully cut and bent a tab down to prevent the lever from being pulled back (no position 3 for right side).
Also, if you were to lock the door with a key from the outside, it can not be unlocked from the inside.
The knob is 1/4...

The graphite/enamel/mineral spirits mix does harden and provides great slickness between the leafs. After applying, assemble the leafs together and tighten, then clean off any mix on the outside edges, tops and bottoms of the assembled springs with mineral spirits and paint with a gloss black paint of your choice. I brush painted mine with gloss...

Mine are pressurised via the rocker cover hold down stud. Stands are in steel and clamp onto the shaft so shafts can be used for oil ways.

4.jpg

I have one spare but it's in Australia.

20250512_103255.jpg

20250512_103307.jpg

20250512_103312.jpg

20250512_103423.jpg

Good to hear Mark. Some thing I learned the hard way is only use a file or aluminum oxide paper, real sand paper ( silica sand ) can turn into glass
when exposed to heat ( arc ) making it a insulator. Like I said the hard way!
Craig.

Photo 6 is a very rare Doctor's Roadster!

I'll check this stuff out and get back to you. Thanks everyone.

Mike

St. Louis changed their parade to sometime in the fall, so we headed to the St. Charles, Mo parade. It seemed to have considerably more attendees than the past several downtown STL parades. Four cars attended and a good time was had despite the temps and lack of shade

Great! Happy you got it solved.

Hanson Rivet & Supply 13241 Weidner Street Pacoima, California 91331. When I was selling T parts, this is the company I bought from.
800-777-4838. www.hansonrivet.com

Don't discount the suggestion by Jerry and Kurt.
Transmission noises do sometimes come from the rear end.

My picture The Around The World Thomas arrived last Saturday. It's now at the framers. The painting was done on off white canvas, and I'm hoping to back light the painting most of the car and passengers are darker shades. Back lighting may bring the car out as the focal point, or I at least I'm am hoping so.

brasscarguy

The first question of interest: Did the Magneto ever work?

The one I posted above that produced 22 AC Volts at road speed didn't work the first time because someone had patched the Mag Coil Ring with two wire coils that belonged in the other places.

Going around with the compass noted the Mag Coil was NSNSSSNSNSNSSSNS.

A rebuilt Coil Ring fixed...

Thanks all.
Parts were found in Italy.

Andre
Belgium

You may have a racer or a luxury car

Doing some more research. Looks like besides racing they also made luxury cars.

1-13.jpg
--
Check out your engine #
italia 2.png
italia 3.png
--
--
This link has a history of the company, Isotta Fraschini, and many links
--
Google to your...

That’s what I ended up doing. I had mine metal sprayed and then ground to size.

Hey, I just saw this. I often wonder where the pictures end up as I see people with their cell phones shooting, as I ramble down the road. Since Karen isn't with me I assume this one was taken as I was driving home from the Santa Clara Valley Model T Ford Club endurance run on June 8th, probably on I 880. Other than racing, the annual endurance...

Hi Brent,
My Rader ( I was told it was Reeder ) distributor has a grease zerk in the upper body of the drive assembly. & a hole drilled & tapped 10-32 in the
lower part ( gear case) to drive the pin through as Hank described. I believe my other Reeder has that hole drilled & tapped to 1/4 fine and a
grease zerk installed in it to grease the...

There are two different spark lever designs. One is straight, and the other bent one is earlier. Maybe that's your problem?

Howard sent you an email. Best John

He is selling on one of the Model T Facebook page. No ebay fees!

I don't know if it's been mentioned before Austin but retorquing that head would be a good idea if it's not leaking anything. Can't figure why the head bolts were loose. Maybe a torque wrench broke or a gasket replacement job got interrupted but retorque it.

1912 Touring Front axle
Brass twist oilers, Two hole perches, over the axle radius rod (wishbone), double u-bolt front axle clip, straight spindle arms (left one holed for speedometer gear), Mae West shackles, tapered leaf spring, spindle body.
STEERING CONNECTING ROD (“Drag Link”) Factory Number T-289
7-29-12 Riveted rod adopted. Brazing pin...

Just a little information. Originally, the stamped spider was painted wood grain.

Mike.

Anyway, they did not have any tacky old tar in them that had to be removed to replace a capacitor.

The 600wt oil works well for this. Stays put. I use it on gears on my old Craftman lathe. Doesn't fling off.

If only there was a company actively making these fantastic toys today, instead of having to track down an antique :|

This one is made today, modern elec. power, kid driving Model T. Only $3900 FOB China! ;)

Too bad those are all AI generated images and it's not real :cry:
Looks good at first glance, had me fooled momentarily...
I hope...

Hi Larry. My PU front steak pocket is 8.5 from the front edge to the center of the pocket.

Why not just remove the steering column, get a donor upper gear case with the original 5 to 1 and do it correctly. Your spark rod and throttle rods are probably worn out and replace them too!

Made this post a while back. Info from a knowledgeable T person who made reproductions of T horns.

Re: Magneto Horn Questions....
Post Sat Sep 18, 2021 3:08 pm

John Regan gave this explanation of the two versions of the magneto horns:

John F. Regan on Thursday, September 10, 2015 - 09:25 am:
Mag horns are wired 2 different ways. The early mag...

The real issue is you need to do some front end work.
A series of partial patches isnt the answer.

I did, that's how I had the link rod on backwards. My front end came mostly apart, new bushings we installed I painted the springs with graphite, I put new wheel seals on the hubs repacked everything and replaced the pitman arm. I got the car...

Here is how i fixed it: remove the rod and grind a depression into it about 1/2 inch from where it disappears into the center hinge. Then reinstall it and place a small dent into the underside of the hood hinge right at the spot where the depression is. It now stays put and can be removed later if needed. Problem solved.

Harry Clinton (Second left) and Grandfather Clinton (Third left) with others outside family blacksmith shop in Wellington Street, Perth.

Interesting signs out the front.

slwa_b1972793_2.jpg

Spotlite.jpg

Springs.jpg