MTFCA Forum

Hi James,
The recomendations are great for high pressure requirements. If for low pressure as in model T apllications try Speedway Motors they have a
good selection of clamps for all aplications.
Craig.

Bill my Roadster backboard is buried in the back corner of my garage, so I can't get photos of it for you. The photos in my post are of Henrietta, my barn fresh tourer backboard. It has a wooden tray which is full width, sitting over and above the rear fenders, and extending forward almost to the front doors. The spare shown is strapped to the...

A year ago I made a similar frame from wood to install the hogshead on a 23 touring by my self. It worked very well. It was not needed to remove thr hogshead because I was able to lift it by myself.

Art Mirtes

There is more to the story on .270 regrind profile. The the duration and hence the overlap increases with .270 lift and its effects as explained by Glen Chadfin a few years ago.

Also I wonder how deep the case hardening is on original camshafts.

But ar this time, I guess regrinds are the only thing that is available for rebuilding engines.

Art...

my 1908 S roadster has canadian serial number on the block so they were making engines in Canada back then

Thanks Steven. For years, I preached to the other T owners, that if it does not start with one pull of the crank (after warm up) something is wrong. Then said to figure out what's wrong and fix it. I said that so many years that if my car does not start and run good I will be shamed by everyone. The only time it does not start good is when I'm...

Since its an updraft carb the special part of the manifold was to clear the generator.
The 04 was original equipment on some Chevy & Essex models.
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This manifold made many years ago with a boss to accommodate Model T linkage. There are also original (aftermaket?) manifolds like it without it.
MOUNTING 0.jpg
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Helpful documentation
Rebuild...

UPS came to the Cleveland Ohio area when they bought Cleveland delivery in the early 1950's. I started with them in the early 80's as a mechanic at the Middleburg Hts. hub. Actually had the chance to have old number 1 in my bay it was the 1913 package car, also had the opportunity to go over the new Model A package car. I did retire after 30 yrs....

I am going to pick up this head Friday and will check for the marking at the outlet and post pics.
Thanks to all for the info and for the smack up side the head reminder to look into the water outlet !

Yes 4.50/4.75-21 fit the 26-27 Ford wire wheels just fine, I have a set on my 1918 speedster

I had concerns about the fading/deterioration of the paint over time also. That is why I used the paint on the bottom of the cans. It was subjected to less sun/UV at least. Not much I could do about reversing the effects of time on the paint coating though.

I sanded and polished the area on the cans I was working with, to get the oxidized layer...

Am I learning something from many of Tom’s era pictures ? Every acetylene tank I’ve seen mounted has the valve pointed rearward. 🤔 But I installed a ‘11 acetylene tank on my ‘11 Hupmobile with the valve pointed forward…..
Which is correct ?

Thanks Luke, I like the description display of amphibiousness seemed to astonish no one in particular.
I will vote for her meaning a T as well :-)

Cheers
Adrian

#3 appears to be a young boy driving which really was not unusual back then.

Philip, The ones I have seen on the NW Montana 500 racers where smaller VW type and attached directly to the differential tube. They were Much less offensive looking than some others but not Model T era for sure. If you can find a picture of Tom's I would copy his idea and could easily be home built.

It has a 1914 style body and windshield, but the earlier style 1913 front fenders.

John. Here's a link that shows examples of the trim screws in a 52 piece kit for the 27 Tudor.

Disclaimer: This link is for illustration only I'm NOT soliciting business for this company.

I am 99% certain there are no 14-24 bolts/machine screws used in this interior trim application.

I am 100% certain Don Booth can answer your question, he's...

Will, as requested here's a photo of the what the original engine on your car would have looked like (3hp Briggs 81302). Notice, Tin Lizzie's built before 1963 used round Oil Bath Filters. Tin Lizzie's built after 1963 with 3hp Briggs engines used kidney shaped foam air filters.

Twelve more Ford cabs lined up. In London:

881F12F2-DE74-4BF2-AE98-BC132C74371A.jpeg

3ED9B7B6-3003-490E-8927-2501AD73E638.jpeg

Shoo-wee! I bet that'd be hard to look at in the sun, wow!

-Golden Eagle? That makes two Rich Eagle's on here...

Man. I gotta get there this year. Thank you for the photos!

Saw this link when I was looking for something else.

Not sure if they are still making them or not.

I have 4 that I just took off my 26 Coupe. Put a set of wire wheels on.

Both cars have Rushmore acetylene generators.

Car appears to have a horn bulb on the drivers non-door, and black trim on the lamps. So likely a mid to late 1915. Electric horns began showing up on open cars about early June (I think?) 1915, black trim lamps during July 1915, but some cars still got bulb horns as late as probably September of 1915.

Great photo! Love the house.

I have seat belts in both my 21 Touring and my 27 Tudor. Used to hold in car seats for both my kids and grand kids. Might be a little riskier in a Tourabout that doesn't have the added protection of doors.

Phil,

I have both the Bosch and American Bosch clip-on distributers. Are you going to Turlock on Saturday?

Don Azevedo

A good screen and clean sediment bulb under the gas tank is all you need for a filter. Water or sediment go to the bottom of the bulb while gas is filtered through the screen. A good free flowing fuel line with both ends higher than the center so any vapors will rise either to the tank or the carburetor will prevent vapor lock. And a good free...

Ernest Hemingway (1899-1961) was an ambulance driver during the Great War. He saw a lot of horrendous things and it affected his writing and his psych for the rest of his life. May have led to his suicide in 1961. Jim Patrick

IMG_8424.jpeg IMG_8426.jpeg IMG_8425.jpeg

From a previous discussion.

By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Friday, February 27, 2015 - 11:26 pm:
Which part? I think the metal gauge standards were a little different back then and they're still a moving target but you can't go wrong with CR 1008 20ga. (~.036 ) on body panels and door skins. The running boards are much thicker. More than most...

WTB: 30x3-1/2 smooth gray tires. I will buy 1 or any amount that you might have, new or used.

just want spares for my cars that are running smooth grays.

Just a note to the scammers, don't waste my time, I require a photo of the tire side wall with the manufacture date. So scammers don't waste my time.

frontyboy.

Because the correct tool pulls on both sides of the rim, I presume the split remains well aligned when being drawn open and closed. The turnbuckle tool must work to, but I suspect if the going gets tough, the pull being off centre on the lugs, there will e a tendency for the split to be pulled somewhat out of line, but maybe not enough to be of...

Gutentite!

Thanks again for all the input. I'm going to try them out and see. If I have to loosen them up a bit I can. I do want oil to get on the thrust surfaces.

You’ve got that right! You all may remember when white wall tires came with the blue coating on them and the tire house you bought them from would clean off the bluish coating on them. And you didn’t get the cut rate price on them either.
That’s what made me think why the T tire company couldn’t wash off the bluish coating. When Tbird mentioned...

I have found over the years that most dimensions on Ford parts are almost without exception, fractional inch increments, including 64ths. This seems to be the case with Model A parts as well.

Ya so why isn't Steve able to post here on the Forum? Nice to hear he's doing well but seems like a bit soon to be going back home by himself? He better get his phone and computer issues solved first at least!

Are you going to drive on the wheel or just display it?

OSHA approved!

This is true. I have machined out some of the internal radius & back. Carefully, since the wall gets thin. They can be made to work.

Let me add another method I did today.
I pressed my tapered socket tool first. Tightened the hub a bit, but not enough. The early small pully hub is a bit smaller wall thickness in the hub.
I used locktite 660....

I would use boiled linseed oil, the closest to an archival/reversible finish you will likely get, plus since it is a drying oil, it will not leave an oily mess. Keep the coat very thin, you aren't painting it, it may take a week or so to be fully dry. Put oily rags outdoors, preferably after soaking them with water as they release heat when the...

Looks good after painting.

I've not found the repro lining to be quite as good as the original asbestos type. I ended up getting bonded linings.

Yeh, they took away all the good stuff years ago! Cough cough, hack hack! Wheeze. :lol:

Good morning all,

In the Model T Times 363 from September October 2009 there is a fine article about the early 1926 Unequipped Runabout.
The photos in the artickle shows the tail and the side light and the brackets. an a special dash switch with no amp-meter.
The car in the article was the 2009 Stynoski winner.

Andre
Belgium

Ha! Now that is Kool. These are also the lyrics of Doug Harden’s 1956 song “Dig That Ford”.

Vince,

Striping on model T's was phased out between 1913 and 1914, first on the bodies, then the wheels.

After that, closed cars had a single pinstripe, at the belt line. This continued to the end of production.

Was this optional or std?

Jim take your time with it, you soon have all kind of help and new friends once restored. In the process when you start to inspect it, you’ll need some help but turn it over and inspect the cast webbing for cracks and runs from the crack. Those will need to be repaired before your start using it. If I can help with measurements or dimensions. Let...

No problems Rich. I have had some experience with the two large holes in early heads. I had a Reeder reproduction head alloy head on my speedster with the two large holes. The block did not have the corresponding second large hole. That cylinder head warped between cylinders 2 and 3. Before it was resurfaced I made a blanking off plate and had the...

Hi All

Just to help show '13 Canadian details. Here are a couple pictures of the remains of the original striping on one of the front doors from my '13 project.

Its a Canadian Fisher built body. I think Fisher Canada was just getting going in '13. The body was rough and had to come fully apart due to deteriorated wood. And I can clearly say, the...

I use the Brite Boy when the brass has a lot of tarnish. I don't like the polishes that require a water rinse.... The Brite Boy works very quick and super easy and is pretty cheap and available at local janitorial supply places. I buy it in a gallon jug and offer samples to guys. I don't think it a great idea to use some of the acid type solutions...

I use this Allen Magnet Charger for charging magnets, and it used 6 Volts.

Allen Magnet Charger.JPG

I Zap the magnet three times, laying on its side with a one inch over hang, flipped to the other side with a one inch over hang, and stood up in the middle area.

Each position gets a 5 second Zap.

Henry Ford says the magnet only has to lift an...

This book, available in reprint form from the vendors. :)

Hey Folks , Thanks for the reply’s , I agree PayPal is the problem. But I want to confirm that Blockley Tyre is NOT the problem. The tires I ordered yesterday morning will be on my door step Monday afternoon. THANKS BLOCKLEY for the great products & service.
John M
Oscoda Michigan

Back to the top

Don,
I will post the pictures, but will probably need someone to help me. Maybe Tim Wrenn will come to the rescue.

Art Mirtes

We'll figure it out! High-O Siiilllver! (Or something like that!) Maybe one day meet week when I'm done with my PT I ca bop over and we can see what kind of trouble we can get in! :lol:

Bump to top.
Any ideas are welcome, i havent done this before.

Stripe the body and wheels only, nothing else for 1913. Striping in French gray.

Body striping outlines the panels of the body. Wheel striping runs around the rims and in V darts on the spokes.

Keith,
Thanks for the pics. I am redoing the rear seat in my '16 Touring. The pics help me see what it should look like.
It is great having others help.
Campbell Tellman II
Beaufort, NC

Ahhh! The Good ol’ days. It may have been his last drive before shipping out for Europe to fight in the Great War, which the US entered in 1917. My Grandma, who was born in 1900 and was about the same age as the girl in the picture, lost a boyfriend to the war. Jim Patrick

If you want to save all the old coil hardware, cut yourself a length of clothes hanger wire, put the springs, standoffs, and nuts on the wire and then polish up on a wire wheel. Once cleaned, those old springs can be extended by outward pressure to fit your needs on coil rebuilding.

Thanks for the pre dawn entertainment Martin. Everything was much simpler over a hundred years ago… and the right rear wheel is the traction wheel, huh ?

Tim,
I see Certain Teed has been making shingles since 1904. I think it is indeed the same company. I worked for the Wisconsin Central Railroad and we shipped granules from 3M in Wausau to the plant you are talking about just off the turnpike at US 250. My Mom and Dad lived in Norwalk until 2005. I always got off at that exit.

To add to earlier post, here is the fender info in 1924, by E.H. Walter’s, in his Rememberences.

The stamping operations being transferred to the giant River Rouge plant, new dies were made to improve the late ‘24 front fenders. Interesting is the mfg. quantity, that fenders were made in larger numbers than production needs, to supply for field...

Here is complete set of APCO accessory rear brakes. Image from the Gallery link, on top right of Forum page, under aftermarket accessories.

Click on link.

Toilet not included!

This is waht I did on my 1915 War Wagon tires and wheels. Used the 2 rubber valve stem but covered them up with a brass rifle bullet casing cut off at the bottom. Selected one that fit the threaded part of the valve stem perfectly and the cap kep everything in place. Will probably go this route again but not paint the rims galvanized or aluminum...

they had a bump out on the rear of 15 for the brake rod clearance on the splash apron have had a roadster and a touring that had that bump out

Here is a Westclox nickel plated auto clock I have had for years. This one has a white face. I have one just like it in my 1926 Coupe, only the face is black with glow in the dark painted radium hands and numbers. The long stem underneath clears the bottom of the dash making it very easy to wind and set. Jim Patrick

IMG_8022.jpeg IMG_8023.jpeg...

Very good one day swap meet with lots of T stuff!

My dad had a bearskin that we used for the same purpose - man, it kept you warm! No wonder people wore raccoon coats in the 20's - stylish AND you didn't freeze your tush off in your roadster!

Somehow, tho, a horsehide blanket just seems, well, appropriate for a T. That way when someone yells Get a Horse you can say I got one!!!

Appear to be Model A.

Yep. Model A.
An equally annoying pan..I had an A with them

Enhanced photo for close inspection

Thanks Rich!

It is for Tom Rootlieb's posts that I most want a LIKE button on this forum.

Right on! Posting pics takes a LOT of time!
Thanks and God bless, Tom!

Try restorationspecialties.com they have an excellent variety of automotive glass moldings / trim / channels etc. i just ordered window moldings and channels for my 1915 Center Door

I sent you a PM, Russ Furstnow

Andy, Simply connect the choke wire to the OF. I don't have any problems starting different than any other carb. Each car may be different, I give two pulls on a cold engine with throttle opened and full choke. Starts with quarter pull every time in the garage. The more people Watching the higher the odds are it'll Never start... Ha ha

The OF...

Actually it’s a decent page that is managed better than most. The individual club pages are far more informative and you see what folks are doing all over the world. I find that folks go to Facebook before this forum. Lots of first timers who inherited or found a Model T. “Whats it worth” questions are common. I’ve found a lot of unique parts as...

MPG figures have not improved much. Not sure what my T is doing yet as not done enough journeys to find out, but here are some figures from cars I have owned:
1963 Cadillac Coupe De Ville 14mpg - averaged over a long journey from San Francisco to Miami
1966 Vauxhall Viva 38mpg
1990 Renault 21 40mpg
1990 Jaguar XJS 5.3 V12 18mpg
2004 Peugeot 406...

Well I believe that was Henry Ford's concept anyway. The way he saw it, if you're going to own a car, you ought to know how it works so you can look after it properly, and fix it if it breaks down.
How times have changed. We are all so lazy now, just call Roadside Assist...
Realistically how many of us even do our own oil changes any more? :?...

One of the funniest things to ever happen with my T, was about 10 years ago at a car show, this dearest elderly lady came up and had a look at my Model T, then she asked me Have you had it from new? .... I was 26 years old at the time... not realising she was actually being serious, I cheekily replied, Oh yes, I turn 110 years old next month! :lol:

This is GREAT news! Have been wondering how he's doing--I don't get to the forum often now, maybe when I get a better internet connection!
T'ake care,
David Dewey

Thank you Dale, I will now drill my repro windshield and paint it before mounting, Craig

If the cold chisel doesn't work, you are left with drilling the rivets out, so the valance panel needs to be removed, and that means the running board too.
The back two rivets could be drilled off from the INSIDE, but to do the same with the front two, you would need to remove the hogshead! I reckon the valance panel would be easier.
The barn...

You don't have it arranged correctly. Move the pinned end of the front bow from where it is and place it in the hooked bracket as shown. The position you have it in now is where it goes only when the top is down.

Screenshot 2024-01-14 074702.png

A T exhaust pipe is 1.5 d1ameter. The reliefs in the block for the glands is 1.25 I have a length of 1.25' exhaust pipe in my workshop, clearly labeled EXHAUST GLAND RINGS ONLY So far other nefarious uses for it have not surfaced, unlike my hidden stash of silver solder! That remains so well hidden I can't find it.

Allan from down under.

Maybe a used car location. I do not think Ford would be happy with that type of advertisement.

They are out there.
Interesting to see another set of these odd fenders. They could have been a late 1910s or 1920s after-market replacement fender (set?). But I don't think the old fashion flat top fenders were very popular as an after-market item. Junk yards were usually available to replace accident damage by the time more than a few were...

The early hubs are very thin at the outer bearing, removing the old cup and fitting the timkin cup needs to be done very carefully as it can stretch the hub and the brass cap will no longer screw on.

There is a trick to re-size the outer threads where the cap goes on. Remove the bolt from a rear wheel puller, and spread it with a screw driver...

I can confirm that the radiator I ordered through Snyders in August was made by Brassworks.

I also Bank with Warrens Bank.. The Devil knows all the Tricks.. And he plays for keeps...

I really like the Text Alerts.. ANYTHING happens on my Accounts, I get a Text.. Even at 2 in the Morning :(

Cap

Brent, if one didn't post poor information, perhaps experts and professionals wouldn't post corrections with a proper answer. Thanks for posting ! Looks like you have a really fine operation there ! 😄

FWIW, the main sills and ribs of my Wilson bodied '13 runabout are poplar. The original floorboards are ash.

I am definitely not here posting...

I have a new one I purchased from Lang’s. I too found over time that it became more difficult to operate, to the point of using pliers to turn it. I took it apart thinking that debris might be causing the issue. What I found was after cleaning, it worked fine for a while then reverted back to almost impossible to turn. Upon the second or third...

This is from the Sears Roebuck catalog from 1927. Whatever type of repair you decide to do it will probably be a 2 man job.
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