MTFCA Forum

What is a Becker starter?

Several years ago Larry (LD) Becker was converting 12 volt Delco starters with a new shaft and mounting to bolt up to a model T. They were excellent starters, less bang into the ring gear. Larry passed away, there was a Family Feud over the business between his two sons. Quality went down and eventually they quit making...

Thanks Mike. Are there differences between the early and later dashboard? I am assuming that the later dash had the lesser steering column angle, where this column mount has eccentric 4 bolt mounting.

The 12's would have had the typical two piece dash. The roof is a fixed height with a height of 46 5/8 from the top of the floor to the bottom of...

Thanks Gene

Scott

According to info from Bruce, the factory accessories were extra cost on the early cars. Base equipment is noted at the bottom of this list, which are the one tool kit, one pair of headlamp brackets, tail and two side oil lamps, and one horn .

Feb 09 prices accessories.jpeg

As for your build sheet, could be items left off or hard...

George, I hesitated to post this the last time you mentioned your radiator problems. About 5 years ago I read an article that was published on a local club website somewhere about an option. The writer modified a radiator for a '65 6-cylinder Mustang. I don't recall the details of the conversion but I imagine moving hose locations and maybe inlet...

Looks great!!!!

I have acetylene gas welded (mild steel rod) or brazed several model T backing plates with ease and success! The only real exception was an early Ruckstell Hall Scott backing plate that refused to weld at all and even brazing it resisted. Someone before me had pretty much destroyed the thing with really bad welding. So I didn't try very hard to...

Bull sent me pictures of what he thought was a 14 rear end. I told him that it was not one so he sent me other pictures. He never did answer my questions. He is a SCAM person, stay away. I did delete my email address, never again.
Craig

I’ve always liked the gas style lamps (I do t know the actual name if there is one). What year did they stop putting those on?

This is my car.
I attempted to list it in the classifieds here, on this site, last Friday.
No one was available to process my ad.

Pete, what are the details about it? Serial number?, original body?

New body, non original block , I sent you a message

Danny be aware that the way that the wires attached on the inside are slightly different on brass top coils than the regular coils.
With the exception of the bolt with the spring tensor, the wires that go to the points and bridge on the brass top actually go through the top wood plate and are soldered to a rectangular piece of metal that has slots...

Try asking on Fordbarn.com in the Model A section.

Thanks for that thought Scott.
I was more than confused with that response.
Harry

Check Here:

@

FJ

As FJ has indicated, the Hershey Region of the AACA's Fall Meet website is the ONLY place to find the correct information on the show, dates and times. With the changes the last few years, there is a lot of mis-information floating around on the internet... however you can always find the correct and up to date information...

Good stuff. Have used it for years. Spray both sides of gasket. Jim Patrick

63B9E9F1-4584-4212-B6E4-6AB0AC3B8A65.jpeg

Looks an awful lot like ‘24ish Chevy…

It is listed on eBay. Didn't copy the listing or number, just look for 1909 Ford Model T Fender.

Without having read all these posts I did catch a few same comments about the backing plate being bent so my 2 cents FWIW is this is why I don't like the '26/27 axles with that flimsy plate. Makes me more glad my Fordor is what Mike Chaffin referred to as being an overlap ...its really a '25/'26...a '25 chassis with an early '26 body on it...no...

Harry, even more good news is that the hcct tester will give you a basic reading of 1.3 amp during adjustment, ..........the ECCT will give you a more precise reading, and the same reading for all four coils so each coil will fire off with the same energy at the same firing time ,... And in my experience would give you a better running engine

Thank you Joe. !

Poured and fit new main bearings and had the crank ground. Changing the pan from the 3 dip to a 4 dip for #4 rod access. New rods, rings and new aluminum cylinder head. Added a worm and sector model t replacement steering gear.

frontyboy

6228ED47-C005-4C5B-B851-E0B399FF4C64.jpeg :lol:

Just high winds no real damage on a catastrophic level.

Pictures would help. Many people have unidentified old parts on hand.

RRRed (1).jpg
The car originally had black tires. An excellent suggestion by Rich B. and some computer magic by Rich E. changed things a bit! :D

Now make the 400 hub.

considering the excellent condition of everything in your engine, are you certain you need a cam?

if you do, I would not put anything in that engine other than a modern .250 cam. With original (what did you have, Tin or CI?) pistons, this is not going to be a racer, so you might as well make the most of a modern, plain grind to keep the torque...

FYI- this thread is 2 years old!

Ralph Reeder sold back in early Texas T Parts days sold Mitsubishi alternators that used an external regulator that plugged into the back using both terminals. I think their two terminals were parallel to each other instead of being 90 degrees to each other. In a pinch maybe one of them could be wired (instead of plug in) to the Hitachi. Check...

Frank - you are a wealth of assisting information - Kudos to you !!!

The 1954/55 ford 239 Y block and mercury 254 share very few interchangeable parts with the later Y blocks. The 239 does use the same piston rings as the Lincoln flathead 337!

I agree with the comments regarding the head of the set screw on the shaft collar hitting a bump on the inside of drive shaft tube. I have experienced this on two rebuilds using modern pinions. Either clean up the inside of the tube with a small grinder or knock the corner of the set screw off with a grinder. I think that will solve your problem.

Bill .... Thank you for following through on your father's wishes, as he wouldn't have wanted it any other way. I think more important is the way you and your family took care of him and his needs these past months. RIP Fast Frank , your buddy Humble Howard probably has greeted you at the gates.

Let us know what you find out

I replaced the corners on my 21 touring a couple of years ago. Somewhere I saw a video on how to do it. The scraps left on my top appeared that the corners were made in 2 pieces, or 2 plys if you will, I cut wood to fit (sorry I do not rememmber what specise i used, but it was a hardwood) and I cannot go look becuse the bows are wrapped in fabric,...

Thanks to everyone for their replies. Problem solved!

Frank

I've had no issue with keeping the charge up on the Optima Red Top 6v with the Model T generator. I keep the gen. output just under slight discharge on the dash ammeter with the lights on and running at a quick idle. But I do use the Voltage Reg.

On the stored Ts, about every couple of months put a float type low amp trickle charger on those Red...

Hi, Erik.

Because there is no wood behind the iron, this will nor work in my case. But thanks a lot for showing me. Meanwhile I decided to use a rivet nut M3, this is the best option.

Rainer

That place has extreme temperature shifts.
1967-12 001 copy.jpg
Mom at Joshua Tree, 1967.

Wow! Cool photo! Also, really nice, vivid color for a 56 year old photo.

Be thankful you are not working on an aluminum HH motor.
The pedal bosses are thicker @ the ends compared to later iron covers.
It usually takes grinding the band to get demountables to fit, if then or turn the bands around.
I learned the hard way, to remove excess material under the pedal shaft bosses, to the later iron cover profile whall the...

In my experience, the solid copper ones from Australia are the absolute best solution. I have had several issues with the steel rings sold with the copper crush rings burning thru and finding the remains of them in my mufflers. Most folks probably don't put enough miles on a car for that to happen , but that's why I started using the solid copper...

That particular horn Frank posted the link to above has a Model A mount on it.

Further to some comments I will state that locally my T block babbit jobs have included the rear main thrust surface as part of the babbit in the block. No the block surface is not tinned, it is just held in place by the “pin holes “ in the block. They have stayed in place just fine!
I am not saying it’s “better “ just that it survives OK!
We have...

This was a VERY informative and interesting discussion! Thanks to TIM, and everyone who contributed information on ordering tires from Blockley!

Number 12 the 1915 runabout is a Canadian built model T given the forked headlamps and Alta (I believe short for Alberta ?) Canada. There is no solid evidence that production USA cars in the 1915 style ever had forked headlamps, contrary to popular belief! Canadian production on the other hand used mostly fork mounted electric headlamps throughout...

Thanks I got it sorted out

Thanks. Just wasn't sure.

Rich's referenced link is golden (brass) just some pics from it
bulb horns.png
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My list of Datsun pump dislikes is mostly stoopid stuff that probably doesn’t make much of a difference. I air out most of my concerns on this not so old thread;

Love the original, promo sticks.
Knowing the exact # of gallons isnt important to me.
The stick I carry in my T's is a typical bare paint stick. Free with paint store purchases. Dont want to scar up a neat stick.
All I really need to know is if the tank is 1/4 or less when I start out.

I would highly recommend Joe Bell, in Ohio, he has done many of my friends engines and rebuild my late 1911 engine and transmission. He even ran my engine, on an engine stand, as a final check/confirmation. You will not be disappointed dealing with him. Great guy and excellent work.

I dumped AT&T after 25 years because of erratic long distance telephone service.

I know we’re ready. It’s the mark of the start of a new driving season. We’ll see you there!

Weird. I just bought a Scat crank from Summit auto. I had it in under 2 weeks. Arrived about a week ago and drop shipped directly from Scat.

Larry
I was watching for you to start reproducing the correct Hyatt type bearings please!

If the fuel line is picking up too much heat, such as from the exhaust pipe, it can cause issues on longer drives or uphill runs, especially in hot weather. A modern needle and seat in the carburetor can also cause issues. They are not designed for low-head gravity systems.

You mentioned taking your sister for a ride. I have 3 Model T's and live in the mountains. There are hills I can climb in high gear, but with an extra passenger, I have to shift down. You will notice that the pulling power decreases with the added weight. But that should not cause the engine to surge.
Norm

Gail Rodda's T Parts Identification books pictures the 13-14 dash to bracket bolts, gives dimensions as: Step bolt, 5/16 x 18thrd., large head diameter of 13/16 . The hex nut used are 5/16 x 18 thrd. and 1/4 (.250') height, with dia. across the flats measure of 1/2 (.500 ).

Restoration Supply offers a close match to the hex nut, Grade 5, #NUT536,...

Well, at least it's not demolished yet, shame to see it boarded up...

Thank you Allan B! When I first ran through these photos I suspected that one was English. I have seen a few pictures of similar ones, and wondered about the wire wheels.
I always enjoy your input!

The adjustment screw is in the centre of the diaphragm, deep in the trumpet. I made a tool to do the adjustment , consisting of a socket wrench welded to a steel tube, and a T handled screwdriver with long shaft to drop down the tube.

Allan from down under.

Here are some measurements pictures from this link
372298.jpg
372299.jpg
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from another link
372853.jpg

Contact me, I will have some good used rims available shortly- no junk.
dmcgears@yahoo.com or PM...................... You will have to pay shipping from Calif, but...........

Let us know, did you get your charging problem reaired?

To add to what George posted above, On our MTFCA National Tour in June, 2022, every goody bag got at least 1gs stick, and some got two of them since we had a few extras. Also, there were gas stations close by in both directions from the host motel. No excuses for running out of gas!

Keith

Thanks Guys.
I’ll have to find some “Blue Gas”
Cheers Alan

Maybe once pressed into the driven plate it would tighten up and need reaming, but as it is it feels loose.

Right. How it fits before installation is kind of immaterial. Install it and see what you've got. If it's still not right, push it out again and get a bushing with a smaller ID, then install it and bore it to size.

The shipping box uses US Military article format.
There is a National Stock Number (NSN) at top and a US Army Signal Corps drawing number.
Obviously it is a igniter of some type. Two possible military applications are a jet engine test stand or flame thrower ignition.
Ron Patterson

When I googled the name something came up about a military...

Terry,,

Did you read the posting just above yours? He may be more focused on his health right now.

I guess if anyone really wants to know, give Tom a phone call. His number is in the classified ad, linked above in Kevin's posting.

Steve, Henry built a few million Ts without any flaps. I believe he did include a narrow rubber rim strip in the wire wheels, likely to prevent welding flashes from puncturing the tubes. With used clincher rims of today, there s a chance of rust flakes doing the same thing. With the exception of the excellent set of rims on Henrietta, I have all...

As Dan said, the wide drum and the driven plate are drop in fit. No alterations needed. Wanting to use a wide band on that drum leads to multiple changes.
Using a wide drum on an earlier transmission is a good idea. Finding an early drum and a matching driven plate is difficult. Mating an early drum to another driven plate will often lead to...

Bill was a great man and taught me a lot in a very short time. The most valuable lesson he taught me was to appreciate life at 25 MPH. All to often we take things for granted and miss some of the most important things that pass us right by. I met Bill on this forum and later on in person at a local event. I had owned my car for about a year but...

You are missing the one that does the brake drum and driven plate all in one.

Yes,

This tour and the Nebraska tour and the National tour are all the same week.

The International Tour is July 16-21 in Baraboo, WI

Que sera sera

Hello & Thanks Alan,there seemed to be a lot of wear in the clamp side of the casting where the tube buts up against it & i wanted to make sure the tube was the right length. I borrowed a shaft from Andrew Web & i wanted to be sure of the sizes before i cut anything as i only have one of each
cheers Warwick.

Chaps, Bendigo is the home of our best swapmeet. How it got into the title I don't know. I can't see US spellcheck doing it????? Perhaps it was predictive text at work.

The cover has the remains of the zinc plating where it is not rusty. Going on the photos, I am inclined to think it is the real deal.

Allan from down under.

It turns out that I do have one of each but did not know that until today. I just went out to look at both pans and sure enough 3 on one and 4 on the other. Thanks for that. Still new but learning.

Bill

That is a valve exerciser . It is used to cycle (open and close) water valves to ensure the valves will operate properly when needed. We had a modern hand held model to cycle all of the fire water valves twice a year to keep them operable and find any that had froze from rusting and needed to be replaced. Here's a link to modern ones:

Cheers,

It's a painting!

This is Not A Ford
By that famous artist, Ford Maddox Ford.

There are some pictures here that might help.

Here is a picture of my grandfather in about 1928 at Lake Arrowhead. The Model T is in the picture and notice how he was dressed? I have the tent in the loft of my garage!
Norm G.S.K. Lake Arrowhead.jpg

Footnote: Many people are unaware that Joe had a lengthy stint in the mid 1920s in the Ford factories, cutting out floorboards from packing crates.
No doubt the cause of his addiction to alcohol! jb

I have a 1927 frame and it does not have a hole at that location. I was concerned about it, but found that it would be difficult to put a bolt there, and that it would crowd the radiator stud mount. There is a bolt just above that location that connects the forward flange of the fender bracket to the extended mounting flange on the frame, which...

In a previous discussion of this topic, someone mentioned using a screw-holding screwdriver for the task, along with starting one screw and slotting the corresponding hole in the cover, all excellent ideas in my view. jb

Try a bit of heat to release the epoxy. No doubt was attempting to cure the infamous cam bearing knock…