MTFCA Forum

My IXL connecting rod aligner from the 1920’s has the same capability.

Good point. Likely even more easily done on a surface plate (-or even a Mill table) using two sets of ground 1-2-3 Blocks, a couple pieces of precision ground bar, and a Mic. (-or Calipers).

EXACTLY!!!

Norman, There have also been a couple batches of head bolts made over the last four decades that are a couple turns too long, so the fault MAY not be 100% yours …

Cool find on the pic!
Not old enough but I watched that before on the Carson channel. Glad to watch it tonight!
:lol: :lol:

If you do not want to remove the outlet from the head you have to pull the radiator forward. Disconnect the upper tank support rod. Loosen the radiator bolts on the frame. Hopefully you have enough thread to do this without taking off the nuts. Remove the clamps and twist the hose. Hopefully it is loose enough and you can tilt the radiator forward...

Anyone have a spare Fronty exhaust manifold?

-Keith

Another pic

Thanks Guys ….
I wasn’t sure if Teflon would be good with gasoline ….
I’ll let y’all know how it works out …

A tornado touched down March 31, in Batavia, IL. On the other side of town from me. I don't believe there was much damage beyond trees uprooted. We had hail stones 2 in diameter.

Older farm trailers and equipment have very similar spindles.

These senior moments are a real pain I'm concerned about the size of the male end of the U/joint and it's a shortened drive shaft for a Warford.
Fits great in a early warford, may even be an advantage. I hope your solution is as easy.
Craig.

You can get the glass bowl filters with both side & top inlets. I have a top inlet on my firetruck. Most have a shutoff valve on them & can be
purchased @ NAPA, Tractor Supply and suppliers like Steiner Tractor.
Craig.

I used a repro harness from Snyders when I rewired the car. However, for the added wiring such as brake light, indicators, etc. I simply used plastic wiring threaded through black shoe lace, and bound at the ends with black cotton.

Thanks, Tom!
The first car looks to be a Hayes bodied touring. If I had to put a date on it, I'd say 1912. The side curtain fastener are at the top of the fore-door. Earlier cars had the side curtain fasteners at the bottom of the door opening, like on the non-fore-door cars. My car has them under the fore-doors. Don't ask me how one would get in...

Norman, apart from the different tread pattern your Insane tyres are well made and give good, long service. Treasure them. The others from the usual suppliers are nowhere near as good.
Allan from down under.

Thank you Rich B! It is nice to feel appreciated once in awhile. Your insightful comments and contributions always bring a smile to my face.

Nice work Les. What did you source the distributor from? Some of the Model A guys have retrofitted a '70's Honda centrifugal / vacuum advance distributor with excellent results. However, the supply of these distributors seems to be drying up.

Looks similar to Hidem Welting.
The trim piece for around the roof.

Michigan requires a bill of sale, appraisal, and sometimes a bond if the value of the car is high enough. Rural DMV offices are a lot easier to work with than those in the big cities. Visit your Secretary of State website and see what they require for obtaining a title for a vehicle that doesn't have one.

Its a great looking truck Terry. I think you have more to start with than I did. I took mine piece by peice and rebuilt it. Tim Morsher was a great help on pieces I was missing. I really enjoy seeing these old trucks coming back to life. Keep us posted on any progress.

Lucas Tire co. Wards Riversides!

Ed aka #4

A good start would be the cover page for each issue of the Ford Service Bulletins. Just about every issue had the name and address of a Ford dealer that had done something to impress Ford Corporate. Each was a story about the dealer.
One of our local dealers made the cover for building Fordson into tractors for the iron ore mines here. Dan

I believe the only thing wrong with Penzoil is the higher price that subsidizes its expensive advertising. A less costly brand is fine if it has the API seal on the container.

This is his website. That is a good place to start.

MTFCI regional Model T tour begins Sunday following the swap meet. 3 days of touring the beautiful Shenandoah Valley. We will be traveling along the Shenandoah River and the Skyline Drive. Visiting Caverns, Civil War Battlefield, covered bridge, car museums, Cooters garage, brewery and much more. Come join us for T fun. Miles and miles of country...

Hi Craig, Love your idea! It looks like a perfect fit? Did you feel this was the best size to order after your install? What size hole punch did you use to end up with a nice tight fit? I see a Rockauto price of 3.50 for two!

Thanks

If you're replacing the timing gear, you should also replace the generator gear. In your one photo it appears well worn. Running a worn generator gear against a new timing gear will make for a noisy mesh.

No apology necessary Scott, Sharing individual experiences on what works well from different perspectives is what makes the forum so great and clarification is welcome.

My specific comment pertained specifically to the Bold highlighted portion of your statement. I added the whole quote for context. Your clarification captured it very well.

I use bronze on my tie rod and spring shackles. Works good.

The problem got resolved today. As it turns out, the crank length had been shortened years ago. As soon as I compared it to other cranks that I had, it became obvious what to do. The short one now sits on the shelf…

Les, sent an e-mail with pics ...

Here is some pro and con about changing to 12 volt in old tractors which might apply to any old 6 volt engines.

As far as Model T’s are concerned the original set up 6 volt worked for years and still works until you think you can improve upon it but why. To each his own in that dept.

The thing I worried about was how much tension should be on the truss.? Maybe others will add some insight about how to determine the proper preload?

Isn't it nice to have folks like Ben who know what to do and are willing to help? It's great to see the switch all cleaned up and so pretty.
Rich

Only if you have a machine shop at your house and all your chores are done! Nothing is impossible if it can be imagined .., N. Tesla

IMG_7062 2.jpeg

As a mater of fact, I do have a machine shop in my home, but my chores are definitely not done! Do you have drawings for those?

I was going t mention that I was fortunate to have Hank make me a...

Ours held right around 2qts if I remember correctly

I think the overall Model T paint was was pretty shiny for a while. After a month or so in the weather and maybe being washed and dried off a few times that’s when the sheen started to change unless the owners may or may not have used some type of polish on it. There weren’t many if at all black top roads either. After a few years in the country a...

I've seen a lot of old, poor quality die castings crumble and fall apart. Indoors or out, it doesn't matter. Often, other die castings in the same piece of equipment are as-new. Pre-WWII radios and phonographs often had pot metal parts, and indoor storage did not proetct the vulnerable parts.

The only issue I’ve had with the 5014RE switch is the fact that the holes on the switch did not line up with the holes on my frame but it’s no big deal if you don’t mind a bit of drilling.

C48BA281-89E1-4E8F-B30B-39A1A5D15A14.jpeg 33FD2D31-B361-437C-972D-23E891E969E6.jpeg 68AFAEAA-DAF3-443D-BA4E-C9D64443242B.jpeg FB0CD282-BDFB-4175-8F74-2BACE8A6147C.jpeg

May solve the letters and could be a special key they made
Perhaps a key blank was modified for a special lock, not for a car
TOEPFER.png
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1/2 -12 threads and 1/2 -13 threads used to be commonly available.
The standard thread now is 1/2 -13, but I have a tap and die set for 1/2 -12 and I see them advertised occasionally on Ebay and other sales sites. It became obsolete in the late teens, (probably during wartime production in WWI it was dropped as a specification), although...

Is there anyone in here who is a longtime member of the Noken T's. I was on one of their tours a good while ago and at an evening supper/get-together that song came across on the P.A. system. We all got a kick out of it, mainly because we had all been in the same udn-udn situation at least once. I was told that the song was sung by one of their...

Looks like Champ is living a pretty fine Dog's Life. A full time job to hang around with Jim and his friends, take rides in a neat old car and eat treats. He makes a fine mascot and I'm betting a great companion.

When I die I would LOVE to come back like Champ!

Are the Top Bows different on the '26 than on the '27?
The length between the first and second are different. It seems that the last is a little shorter than the third.

Judging by the spring rates provided, a new higher tension square spring would work fine
with possibly a little extra tension via the 3 finger adjustment.

Do check the new springs tension. I have found a wide range from 110#'s to 130#'s
The stiffer tension preferred for the Watts disks.

There is probably more uniformity of dimensions for the later bodies. The original floor boards and the sill rebate in my Wilson-bodied '13 are 5/8 .

Did you try Snyders, Chaffins, Bob's, and Gaslight Auto?

I broke my cabin fever 4 times in February. It was a nicer month to bring out the Fordor than March was! I'm glad March is over.

The AACA forum has a What Is It? section. It is amazing how some of those people can recognize some really obscure stuff!

Since so much of the hobby has gone to really modern stuff? It is surprising how many real experts on the early stuff are still quite active in that club and on that forum!

From the general design, I would expect that...

Thank you John,I had intalled the 3 back edge where flathead screws would go to hold the mirror in place, but it had the gap which not allowed me to keep the mirror in place. Lang's do not have the insulation pads that go between the back of the mirror and the bottom of the headlight. You may know another vendor maybe. I will try to post tonight a...

It takes 3 hours to completely remove a T engine from a Fordor Sedan.

It takes 6 hours to install an engine and completely put everything back together (steering, radiator, starter, wishbone, axle connections, & initial adjustment).

Once you get the engine on the stand; Removing and disassembling the trans and diagnosis is about an hour and a...

I wouldn't even know whether or not you can load directly from your phone. However all my pictures are loaded into the computer under My Pictures. Whether or not they came from a phone or from someone else's e-mail. My wife does Facebook and she sometimes loads the pictures to MY pictures. I take them from My pictures directly to the forum. Then I...

Thanks for all the information !!!!!
Toon

Had a friend that got a few old leather couches to redo his car

Thank you Scott & Dan.

I found Ford Methods and The Fords Shop on archive.org. That looks like it's full of great information. I'll keep an eye out for an original copy.

Good idea or not living in the high desert of Nevada
I had biuld it once I found it but I've been told they work in dirt to we see this summer

There must be snow somewhere in Nevada as I see vintage snowmobiles pop up for sale from there.

Todd,

I sent you an email.

If you had storage space, It would be easier to have two vehicles and only...

A parking permit for the Epping*Forest Yacht & Country Club

I received valve drawings from the Benson Ford Research Center. These are dated 15th January 1927.

The valve stem is cold drawn steel Type EE and the valve head is Cast Iron Grade B.

Only the stem has rolled grooves, 18 per inch for 5/8 . The two items are electric welded together.

The chart is from Shop Theory - Henry Ford Trade School 1943...

I have never been a big fan of the towncars. However, I do appreciate them, and consider them to be an important part of automotive history!
If the casting date on the engine is to be believed, it would make this a very early 1917 model! True 1917 models are somewhat rare, and the photos do not do a good job of showing just how correct (or not?)...

John, If the oil hole is on the bottom, will it allow a lot more oil to flow through the 4th main going up hills? I understand from a discussion with Gene French that many 4th mains have no hole.

Possibly a little bit more. Not a lot more since oil still enters around the mains open end. Also the spinning spring retainer cup shields the end...

Push pins are your friend, they allow you to easily shift the material before you staple or tack it down for good. :)

Who'd-a guessed?

I DID! Literally 30 minutes after you asked. :lol: :)

Jerry...you're kidding!!?!
What's the odds? :lol:

Pretty good I guess...

If only these vehicles could talk, the stories they would tell!

Curious that one VR can work for 6, 12, and 24 volt systems? I’m no electrical engineer but that just doesn’t sound right to me.

Because ITS NOT A VOLTAGE REGULATOR. Its an electronic cutout. Can be built with one diode.
I have made my own. One selects a diode that covers the voltage /amp output maximum output from the generator.
Like 40V, 50...

I wanna go on that tour so so bad! But the 4 day drive out and another back with hotels and fuel its just too much cost for me.

Do your homework Steve! 1915 brackets are all by themselves. I think they are being reproduced in brass. You may luck out and find an original. I bought a NOS original from Alvin Anderson back in the sixties for $3! How many of you remember him?

There is nothing like the originals! A simple 3/16 cable to an equalizer, and a clamp to the standard brake pedal. The new ones work well, but why did Jack Sunderlin do it this way? He started off making them correctly, but got side tracked and thought all equalizers were alike, and that is why they now use the Bennett style equalizer. If he would...

Good advice - all. Thanks ! I was given the correct muffler shell kit for an earlier ‘3 bolt’ muffler and truthfully didn’t know there was a difference in it and the later ‘1 bolt’ kit. So I called the “delivery boy”, Steve Lang, who delivered my parts to Chickasha. He said both of these kits are made by Snyders and there is, indeed, a difference...

You mean those things people use to wear grooves in their steering linkages?
Fix your steering and get rid of them. :)
Enter MTFCA: death wobble in Google.

I agree. Stupid band aid approach.

I used Photoshop. These pictures interest me since I am working on a 1912 Commercial Roadster with the mother-in-law seat. I have been a photographer since I was 14 (I am 67 now) and have spent hours and hours in darkrooms, etc. I know the old school photography well including the chemistry. What happens to these old photos is that the image may...

Thanks Bob.

This is the 2001 SCI-FI movie that turned to be was a predictor in the direction we’re going.
It’s closer than you think.

Use to be able to post pic from my phone without doing anything ,don't know why I had to start resizing

Allen,

Sorry to hear about the loss of your friend and fellow Model T'er. I hope that you will find a photo and post it as he requested.

Denny

Those ring thingy's with the 4 internal tabs (I see 5 units) are bendix drive counterweights.
They have some value to a bendix restorer. Not to be arbitrarily pitched.

My dad straightened many pans without a jig. The jig doesn't straighten the pan, it only tells you when or if it's straight. (I know the jig can also act as an anvil in the straightening process. I'm not saying it isn't a valuable tool.) I wouldn't be surprised if the pan in the photo went from the press to a jig, to check their progress.

To prevent leaks I use clear RTV on my hose connections. It seals the connection and prevents corrosion. When you want to remove the hose simply twist and it comes right off.

Do you put the rtv inside the hose?

on the part the hose goes over.

And here I thought it was a rough town? Not that I would want to be too abrasive about it?

thanks Rich, just what the doctor ordered

😂 yes, pic was taken when trailer is new Tim. I think decals were added before I hauled a T. I previously had a 7’ wide 14’ enclosed trailer. Was almost impossible to exit a 26-27 T when driven in. Thankfully, 8.5’ width is common to most manufacturers. Don’t think I could negotiate my entry gate with a 20’ trailer.