MTFCA Forum

I agree with your assessment, the large terminal in the middle of the bottom of the box is the high tension lead. Ludwig Gocek (lgocek9@gmail.com) sells the insulator shroud for that connection, along with a bunch of other hardware for old coil boxes. I suspect that two of the low tension connections on the box bottom are for battery banks A and B...

Third photo from the bottom is a 1915 or 1916 with a 1917 license plate and a decent look at the large flag decal that many people put on their car windshields in support of the country entering the War, or maybe it was our country first and stay out of the war? Both sentiments were running strong that year!
A couple other observations of that...

:oops: :oops: :oops: Yea that was a bad typo, wish I could say I did it intentionally just to get a laugh, but sadly I cannot! :cry:

I don't plan on using, at least not the wrench (spelling correct this time) part, but the plug end may come in handy.

At some point, perhaps by 2040, motorsports will be banned, and vehicular competiton will be limited to gravity powered platforms. At that point, activists will begin the long march toward a total global ban on all competitive activity of any kind whatsoever, war being the only exception. Governments do love their wars.

Shriner Clowns had most of them.

And in the OP the driver appears to be wearing a Shriner Fez.

I own two T's. A 1915 touring and a 1926 roadster. Both have Ruckstells. The only thing I will add is that a Ruckstell is not a overdrive or a high speed option. It is an intermediate gearing option. It's great for cruising SLOW when in Ruckstell high. bobt

The car looks like a Dodge, and the 3/4 eliptic springs and large brakes also indicate Dodge. The wire wheels may be non-factory accessories.

Wire wheels were a factory option on Dodge automobiles beginning in the late 1910s, and continuing into the mid 1920s at least. They were usually purchased on coupes and sedans, and I have seen them on...

I suspect the E is for Eagle brand oil can.

Art Mirtes

Thanks for the responses, I believe things are now responding to treatment ! :lol:

All else fails, read the instructions.
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I run a small fan hub with a large crankshaft pulley on a c.1920 engine in our 1914. Have done so for about 25 years. Not my choice...the engine was built for a speedster and ended up in the 1914. I could not find the correct length belt for that combination. I ended up using an idler arm/bearing off of a distributor that John Stoltz sold, mounted...

The green drab bezel makes sense on military vehicles/machinery. They may not do many miles but may operate for some time. Every time the engine is started, the hours are recordred. In this way a service schedule can be adopted to suit the running conditions. Like a lot of government/military items, they stockpile spares that often are outdated...

John, I think that’s the divorce model, one seat for the wife, the other for the girl friend.

No upholstery except where your butt & back go !

Those 3 holes don't belong there. Somebody added them for an accessory of some sort.

I just oil every flip top and screw down about a turn on each grease fitting. Remember the ones under the front floorboard. Sometimes you can reach them from under the car without removing the floorboard. There is also one through the frame over each end of the parking brake cross shaft. I do this before each time I drive the T unless I drive it...

Not trying to hijack your thread Steve but if you, or anybody, needs for future reference here are all the bowls except one from the later (1912 an up) carburetors.

Top photo left to right top: Holley H1, Holley S, Pat‘s Pending G
bottom: Holley G Pat‘d Dec 22, 1914, early NH, late NH

Bottom photo top: Kingston Y (4 ball), Kingston L, Kingston...

Yep our club Prez sent it out and it is quite the video!

Dragging starters abuse starter switches, batteries, generators, cables, and peoples' patience.

If you've measured correctly, 20V a little above idle is excellent

This is where a St. Louis Mag Tester really shines

I wouldn't go to any effort at all to recharge based on that result

Thank you Scott........bring on summer!!

John

I did upholstery on collector cars for 35 years. Installing a top and having it look good is a difficult job. Reinstalling one with all of the holes in it from the previous installation would be something I would not attempt. It would be very difficult, if not impossible to keep the holes in the top from showing after the second installation. You...

The rust makes it difficult to identify. Does that firewall have four holes for the patent plate or two? Two is a 1925. Late 1925 firewalls have no bell crank for the carburetor, but the two holes for it are still there.

The problem with # 1 and # 2 is already in the Book :
The Model T FordOwner by Murray Fahnesstock 1921 .
pag.303-305 .

Toon

I am the one making the LED kits . new brighter bulbs have been found Langs should have them in stock now. If you would like the new bulbs please get a hold of me . Old bulbs were 2w equal to 20watt halogen bulb. The new bulbs are 5w equal to 50w halogen . Plus the LED bulbs draw a lot less amps, also the LED bulbs are replaceable if they burn...

My car seems to enjoy running, and I certainly enjoy driving it.

No one makes a new 42 tooth ring gear. Good luck finding a good used one.

Back in the mid 1970’s I knew the person doing the bonded Model T transmission bands in Central California area. The linings were the same material as was used in old cable operated dragline brake drums that stop and hold the cables in use. Many such draglines from the 1950’s were still in use by irrigation districts back then. On the T bands they...

In 2011, I installed a Stewart 490 in my 1926 Coupe and posted the step by step procedure with 14 pictures. The most important thing was to get the hole in the right place to avoid the fuel tank in the cowl behind the dash. Jim Patrick

Please see: www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/211242.html

Larry, like it was said it in the old days, “ Don’t have a cow, man.”
I did a lot of work in the Visalia mall, the next city to the north, in the 80’s so I should have remembered the proper spelling of the city, sorry.

Model T Ron....that is a nice looking car. I wish there were white tires available when I restored mine.

I’ve read that the T ignition switch rebuild kits were scarce.
If a switch's problem is a warped backing plate, which it often is, that's usually an easy fix. I didn't know that until I opened up a switch and saw what was the matter with it.

Ford could not tolerate drunk or hung-over workers, or butt-hurt slackers, or the persistently inept, except by pricing his product a good bit higher. An impaired worker would have been a hazard to himself and others, as well as to the company. The Ford plants were among the cleanest and safest industrial workplaces in early 20th Century, if not...

Link for 'Front Assemblies':

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I have a Lincoln 3-speed for my TT, but have not installed
it yet. These period aix. transmissions have straight cut gears,
and are known to whine. I liked the idea of putting that noise
out back by the rear end, rather than up front by the cab. My
truck is loud enough already !

I saw the ones RV made at Hershey, but there were none in his shop after he passed, and I didn't find any parts or drawings. Maybe Don Lang found something related to the project when he was in RV's shop.

If you find the correct color, you can successfully touch-up all chips by filling in the chipped and damaged areas with a very small brush dabbing on several coats and then, once completely dry, gently sand the touched-up areas flat with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper being careful not to sand anything but the recently applied touch-up paint. Once the...

Babbitt is the way to go. If you use inserts, it would be best to also have a pressurized oil system, but to do that, you would need to drill the crankshaft. The bearings on a T crank are also small and the drilling would weaken the already weak crankshaft. With a new Skat crank, the babbitt bearings would wear for a long time and only need small...

After you get the wiring correct, Your first running may show a dead generator requiring re-polarization.

Pat,

Please contact me by email.

Dick(dot)Fischer(at)mac.com Note: for exact address, make all capital letters lower case.

Thanks everyone for the posts and suggestions. Will see how it goes now. :)

I found that same page as well, Frank. But I can't seem to drill down into their website to look at the regulator itself. Probably just not computer savvy enough.

Have you tried to look into the catalog to see details for ordering from Ford Garage ?

I found the HOME page
Scrolling down - lots of documentation and original parts catalogs. Think...

If you run the numbers… adding the A crank with its extra 1/4” of stroke to a 4:1 compression engine will only bump the compression ratio to 4.25:1. Unfortunately, at these low compression ratios it requires a lot of volume displacement to increase compression ratio. No doubt the high dome piston displaces a noticeable amount of volume, but likely...

with original hubs and axles the probability is a near certainty

I dug around in my parts and found a nice clevis. Fitted it a bit then set it to the same length as the one I took out. Seems to work ok. I will do some adjusting when the wheels are back on.

Thank you very much all for the responses, they are much appreciated, I will double check all the measurements and probably make up a brass spacer and see what effect that has.

Many Thanks
George

I have collected some photos from the internet. I hope they help.
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24-5Coupez1.jpg
24-5Coupez2.jpg
The last two may be earlier.
Rich

Wonderful things including the video.
Out friend Bob Woodburn has a number of things still on eBay at premium prices. His reasoning has been discussed here many times.
For me, the pictures are fabulous and a treat to see.
Thanks for the opportunity to see them.
Rich

So it wasn’t custom, benson ford had one mention of a waterskiet dealership in their archives. The only mention of the dealership is from the 1924 ledger and reads “canceled 8/18/1925. Dealer's request. Unable to finance. Unfair practices.” This was in reference to Mr. Behlows watersmeet dealership as well so everything seems to line up.

Keith McG,
I don't recognize the big car either, but I do like it! And the T is clearly a 1914 style, which was actually manufactured for well over a year and a half! Due to weakness in the 1913 style, they began production by July of 1913. And then due to production delays of the new 1915 style front cowl, continued clear into April of 1915!
Most...

Yeah, I thought about that just a few minutes ago. Works with laminate, but surely not with tempered glass! You could go the route of cutting new glass and if you think 1/8 less in width might do it, then go with that. If that turns out to be too much you can shim behind the felt channels to get it just right. As I said earlier, I spent a lot of...

Depends upon the model transmission.
If it is the six speed version, actually a three speed progressive shift, be very careful. Do not try to force it because you can't!
I had one many years ago, that wasn't very rusty inside, and never did get it loose. There is a big sliding gear with a couple of dog clutches that takes very little rust inside...

My advise is don't try it. Russ

Yes, It have a virgin starter ring on the fly wheel.
I hope, at the underside, the corrosion didn't distroy it.

Andre
Belgium

The term station wagon pre-dates the automobile so it actually did not start with the Model T. Same goes for depot hackney AKA depot hack and I also presume for estate wagon.

Automobile manufactures such as Woods and Pope-Waverley produced models to which they referred as station wagons, long before the appearance of any Model T equipped with a...

Has anyone else had their old car surge ahead unexpectedly?
Yes. My 1915 runabout ran over me. But it didn't jump into gear. It was in neutral but with cold oil, and I forgot to chock the wheels.

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We had no dial phones before about 1958. You simply picked up the phone, and the operator asked: Number, please? You then gave the street name and address you wanted to call, and the operator connected you. When dial phones became available, You would dial X-XXXX. Later on,
you had to dial XXX-XXXX. Now you have to enter XXX-XXX-XXXX or...

They describe it as a current regulator . That suggests a choke , or inductor, which can be used to regulate mag output at higher engine speeds. I don't know why it would matter how it was mounted, unless it was oil-filled, which it may very well be. Another possibility is that it is a capacitor, which could accomplish a similar function. It could...

The upper inlet version dumps into a well which contains what is in essence a labyrinth assembly whereby sediment settles out and clean(er) fuel at the top of the well is allowed to flow in to the bowl. Fuel flow is very slightly but not terribly restricted with this arrangement. Unscrewing the cap on this well allows the operator to withdraw the...

Slot go's on the other side of the cam on a T engine, some get confused on which side of the bore is the power thrust, which is the cam side. There is an arrow on the top that should point to the front of an engine.

These responses are GREAT!! Lots of help for getting my 25 Touring back on the road.

Thanks soooo much!!

Tom
=====

Darin - I run a Rajo Model 30 head on my 1919 speedster. Also runs with no magneto, Texas T distributor, and a Stromberg RF carb. I've had it up to 65 mph with throttle to spare.

If you do a Google search on rajo mtfca forum you'll get a wealth of information on Rajo heads and the experiences that folks have had with them. I attached a PDF with...

I agree the pin position technic works great.
I almost always prime the engine with 4 pulls, and then she always starts right up.

I use the the horizontal pin position also, ever since John Regan taught me that way back in 2013. Works great. My '13 will almost always stsrt cold on 1st or 2nd yank after the customary priming, and that's if she...

Photos as requested.20230202_144417.jpg20230202_144417.jpg

Allan from down under.

Nicely done!

Mine came with the pins. They are necessary to align the cam gear with the cam. It can go on either way because the crank is exactly the same position at 180 degrees.
Norm

I talked to the man I bought the car from tonight and told him that I was going to come and get the parts. Who knows there might be some gem that I overlooked. Anyway, if anyone is in need of a engine project, I would probably be glad to give them one. A friend of mine also has a 17 chassis with a rebuilt engine that has also been sitting outside...

Well it so happens I pulled the canvas off the speedster project and started scroungeing up parts stuffed in nooks and cranys in the shop and i had bought 1 of those diodes! and had a cut out in the bag with it and was apparently looking at doing this during the last work on the project.
That is I guess 1 of the good things about closed head...

5/8 look fine to my eyes.

Compare the photos I posted in the other thread of the 1917 Rip Van Winkle touring and my dad's 1917 touring with the 5/8 nails at the end of the binding, June and July cars respectively, both originally sold in Minnesota and, I presume, both assembled in Minneapolis.

Happy to have you back Carl! Enjoy the ride!

I plan to fire up the oscilloscope and the capacitor meter to check the coils. The points have just been cleaned with a file. I prefer filing rather than sandpapering the points. I found that old Briggs and Startton engines won't start very well with sanded points. Filed ones seem to work well. I realize that these Ignition systems are different...

Thanks for the replies and diagrams. That really helps a lot!

Not Model T, but the story is still the same ! :lol:

Yep, 11077 fits machined hubs. My reply above is pretty much moot then. Good luck. Have fun. I think you're on your way.

Hi, I understand why you are looking for a reliable and affordable car hauler. Moving a car can be daunting, but it can be easy with the right company.

All this thread is doing is attracting spam replies

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FJ

I think I will order a reproduction metal cover. Not that expensive and it should fit better than the wood one.

There have been several fancy doodads to set timing over the past 100 years. Currently Lang's sells one that even lights up (for $87). They are all less accurate than going by the pin position, which has the advantage of costing the perfect price — nothing.

What would be causing excessive play in the steering of my 1920 Roadster?
It's rarely caused by just one thing. More often it's a combination of several small problems that add up to one big one (worn bushings, gears, pitman arm ball, etc.). Look everywhere in the steering system.

And pretty ingenious!

I have seen 2, one of which I have in my collection. I would post a picture but not sure I know how.

A 6mm x 1 screw is very close to the number 14 thread used with the starter bendic cover. They will work very well and they are available with a torx head. This makes it easier to install.

I haven't change to these yet.

Art Mirtes

If your cam has been reground, chances are there is no heel left, check it. If that is the case you will need to install a thrust kit.

What can happen is the lobe can drop into the notch without the thrust kit that is installed between the cover and timing gear.

I did spend some time looking. Overland, Chevrolet and even Cadillac had similar ones but not a match I could find. I suspect a small car or even an accessory for a Ford.
Rich

anyone ever seen these types?