MTFCA Forum

I am guessing this picture was taken in western Douglas County near Omaha. And there is an excellent possibility my Grandpa knew the owner of this T.

Well Thanks Rich. I have to give my dear Father credit for making Christmas card making fun. He printed ones on photo paper, and we watched them come to life in the developer and then put them on blotter paper to dry. The whole process was magical to us as little ones and the idea of creating something lived at our house. Yellow light bulb and...

If your model T isn’t leaking, it’s out of oil. They are like old Harley Davidsons that way.

Larry
check your e mails I just got a hack from your name asking about amazon
Hello.

Please let me know when you get this?

I'd like to ask you something

Thanks
Larry

Thank you to everyone who replied. I am not in the market for this wrech, as I already have a correct one. I thought Forum members who are in the market for this wrench would appreciate your sharing your knowledge.

As an option: I posted a while back about wheels I did for my '19 roadster where I oven dried the spokes to shrink them before assembly and then re-humidified them afterward. The wheels run more true than any other that I have done and went together without all the fuss. The process didn't receive much comment so I won't go into detail but you get...

Hap,

Excellent, well researched information as always. How do you find the time? Thanks!

Thanks guys, ...I'll just order some of the eBay ones and be done with it.

Hm - I better write to Langs and ask for just the brass tube. I bought the kit and was not aware of the issue with copper at the time of ordering. Returning it for swap will be to expensive and I can use the copper tupe for other applications.
Thanks for the heads up.

I have added a link Jay, and anymore items we could add to the JAY COLLECTION entries?

Merry Christmas all,

Adrian

Thank you for all the quick replies and more importantly, the wealth of information. You guys have a good thing going here; kind of makes me wish I had an old Ford so I could be part of the club. Anyway, this does indeed help narrow things down for me. Thank you again

Curious if anyone here can tell me - is this factory wire? I suspect this has never been opened. Do you agree?

Wow, those are purrrdy!

I still use the solid bands with kevlar linings. I figure that by the time the linings need replacing, the engine will need to come out anyway.

It sounds like that 4 of the cars are at Greenfield Village giving rides, and 2 of them are at museums. One may be overseas.
I wonder if they made more engine parts, like the transmission drums for sale. I heard that they seem to function better than the old ones... :?:

Does anyone have more information regarding the 1958 Model T?

James,
I started the post that Dan told about in 2014.
The 1922 woody was driven with the Master Coil since then for about 15,000 miles without any problems. About every time the car is started it was given a free start even cold and set for a long time. Cold I just turn the engine a few times over with the choke pulled out and the ignition...

The ones I’ve machined are a bit smaller but just about the same size as the later counterbore size. You should be able to split the later size felt in half with a new razor blade and pack one of the halves in. Saturate the felt with oil before you install the cover. It should help to make a cone out of .003” shim stock & place over the cam nut...

If anyone has dvd's of other tours and would like to share them with the world, I would be happy to put them up on youtube. This was the 5th Mainely T Tour, I know my car was restored in 1976 - so it would probably have been in the previous 4, and 6-23. I know it was in the 2008 and 2009 tours 'cause I took it back there. I also have footage from...

Anthonie,
I like that!

About those bugs: powder-post beetles, termites, other wood borers, and carpenter bees as well will get into almost any hardwood. On interior wood, such as a car body that doesn't stay outside, they can be permanently and entirely safely eliminated by mixing sodium octoborate with polyethylene glycol (note, not ethylene glycol... car antifreeze)....

First picture of the second set of four appear to be russian soldiers by the look of the uniforms.

Thanks. I dimpled it slightly with a punch in 4 places and it came out. The only thing I can think of is that it was stuck with dried grease.

Donation made.

Very cool .Thanks for all the joy you give to others .

Either one of those choices is good. Be sure to note the bends at the bottom. I had a NOS one I used to copy for mine.

Gathering.jpeg

I find this photo interesting on a number of levels.

First, the photo shows both automobiles and horse drawn vehicles. My mother was born in 1925 and she remembers her mother taking a horse and buggy to town (Black Creek, WI), this would have been 1928 or so. So, it wasn't unusual in the day, but I haven't seen that many period...

Thanks Ron and Bob!

I could had used them on Wednesday when I helped a friend with a 1912 that looked like new, but had no sparks.

I am saving the first one for him!

I grew up in the city, after the horse and buggy days, so have only been on a horse a few times in my life. The problem with the clutch is that he slipped the clutch and raced the engine as he was pulling me out. His car was a Nash and they didn't have very good clutches either. It was right after the WWII and he had his name on a waiting list for...

Cool stuff, Eric. Now I need to find out about the other 1911 with california Horseless Carriage plates 1636. I wonder if it is the same car?

Is the 1909 with Nevada plates 18, #220?

: ^ )

Keith

Thank you for the prompt reply.

As long as we’re not doing Pharis-level work

Measuring in Pharis’s may be subject to generational variations…😉

Even properly torqued fasteners can loosen in normal service, especially in new assemblies. Some late model new vehicle literature advises retorquing certain items, such as dual wheel lug fasteners. Early car owner manuals often advised owners to perform an inspection and general tightening up of the vehicle frome time to time. As dealer networks...

Because you are thinking about going with a Model T speedster, before going to the trouble of removing the 26 roadster body, think about making it a 26 T Go-Job, as in a late 1930’s low bucks high school hot rod. A mildly worked T engine with high compression flat head and a bigger carburetor, maybe change to 1926 T wire wheels. You can get a hot...

Around her about 1940 all the Government issue fish boats that were issued to the Japanese were ordered returned and the Japanese interned in various camps, all the fish boats used Model T ford differentials with a Ruxtall to drive the net drums. Still the odd fish boat that didn't get returned sitting in the bushes has a Ruxtall sitting in it....

The back rest spring attaches to a three clasps screwed to the vertical wood strips, the back spring rests on top of the seat spring. To remove pull the bottom out and lift up. You may find the clasps in your supplies some where, they are very easy to make DSC00248.JPG DSC00248.JPG

Horses can be easily spooked, one day two ladies were leading two horses along the side of the road as I was approaching in my vehicle they were most jumpy and therefore I stopped, still as they approached my vehicle they became more uncomfortable because the wipers were operating I turned them off and it helped a bit but still very jumpy, I then...

Dan

after a lifetime of winding up antique clocks and naturally holding the key between my thumb and index finger, I look at your picture and ask myself: what's the problem?

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

How 'bout this for a quick fix ! :lol: I bet Red Green would endorse it, with a wrap or two of Duck Tape around the jaws of course! :lol:

DSC00247.JPG DSC00242.JPG DSC00245.JPG DSC00243.JPG DSC00246.JPG
The top brass part is crimped to the remainder, the whole assembly should lift out as one piece, as suggested just soak it and gently pry, maybe soak the base in kerosene for a couple of days. The burner assembly is brass and the fount is steel so there may be some rust from the...

Swedged, not bradded. ISC.

A name brand single stage paint makes a nice paint job. Of course surface preparation is 90% of a good paint job no matter what type of paint you use.

Can one use stock head bolts with p-heads?

Yes, new high head bolts are best IMO, Kevin supplies w/ each P head the proper s.s. thin washers to put under each bolt head. Washers are needed to prevent galling the surface of the aluminum head around the bolt holes. Thin washers of course to allow sufficient depth of the bolt into the block.

Here is my Runabout loaded up on the day I bought it from my aunt. That road in the background is old Route 66 in Marshfield Missouri.

T loaded.gif

I have aligned the door with a piano wire and a screen door turnbuckle. Pull the door panel off and put the wire between the top corner close to the windshield and the lower right corner . Put the turnbuckle in the middle where it does not contact the wood and snug it up. It will pull the corner back in. The wood has loosened and relaxed.

I like the 20” Buffalo’s on the front! But the upholstery might take some gettin used to…

Tim, I sent you a PM with my email so that we can correspond outside of the forum.

Austin, I was using oak for the wood in bodies at that time because I could get it in thicker sizes. I have since been convinced ash is a better choice and glue up 4 quarter pieces to the correct thickness. I have seen no problems with the oak and recall one model T wood kit supplier advertising their kits were oak in the '70s. I like ash and...

Spring shackles as an assembly should be 'tight', if they bind on either the spring or perch that issue needs to be corrected in a way that permits full and tight assembly of the shackles. Shackle bolts left loose promote rapid wear of both the shackles and spring/perch bushings. jb

You people are overlooking the dust, which clearly indicates that this is an all-original barn find.

Nicely done !

Southwest Model T Club Reliability Run Day 2.
Starting out & the Powerhouse Route 66 Museum in Kingman Az. IMG_2369.jpg IMG_2368.jpg IMG_2367.jpg IMG_2365.jpg IMG_2362.jpg

When I was restoring my 1914 I found a bunch of advertisements and original pictures from 1914 and I tried to make the car look like it did in 1914. Two of the best pictures had the twist down and the bell up so I mounted it that way. (Mounting it that way also helped me hide a dent in the horn.)
.
After reading this post I spent about an hour...

Thanks for posting. It's good to see green trees, it won't be winter forever. Nicely done video!

Nit realy as there's two connectors on amp guage not one
And voltage regulator I've seen have two contacts one marked field one marked INGnition

Not sure what alternator you have but most have a voltage regulator built in so there is no need for an external one. Also external voltage regulators have 3 or 4 wires.
So what ones do you have? But...

That sucks.
Did you contact Lang's to see if they have any being made. they had sold for $31.95

Suggestion
Buy a wood dowel (Lowe's) and use it to measure it with the steering column and steering bracket attached - from the inside of the case to the end o f the steering bracket and then add for the thickness of the head and stub end.
The dowel is long enough to even modify for the head thickness and mark with the pitman arm and nut on it....

Two major changes with the pans were the size of the pulley valley up front and the inspection cover underneath. An early pan with the narrow nose would not work well with the later larger pulley. Other than that I think you're good.

Very Nice!!!
Thanks for thinking of us.
Rich

Russ, these are the body numbers on my newly acquired coupelet.

I put a NOS quadrant on my 1925. I didn't wish to change the location of the existing holes in the column tube. It was a difficult job, but I marked the holes from the tube to the quadrant from the inside, and drilled a very small hole from the inside of the quadrant, and kept enlarging it with a file and what other means I could find to get the...

Great pic Keith! Hap, thank you for posting.

I had a 4 dipper and a narrow nose pan that both had issues, so a cut and shut and now I have a 4 dipper with a narrow nose on my 16.

Well, I’m going to take a big leap of faith and say
.......that is NOT a Ford TT rear wheel..... you are Not the father 😜😜. I’m not aware of either size (23” or 20”) TT rear wheels having only 4 lugs. Here’s a pic of my TT 20” rear wheel. Doesn’t it appear my emergency brake drum is larger than your pic ?

Another benefit of antifreeze it raises the boiling point of the coolant.
Art Mirtes

My dad's suicide door coupe had the window either closed, or dropped fully open with a strap...and I recall that the rear-side windows lowered progressively with a spring-loaded handle which latched into a series of detents to allow partial opening of varying degrees. When closed, the door window lifted up and over a metal ledge on the interior,...

Jim, it's easy to get things mixed up. I once found TWO of the three hole wrenches for my 1912 T van, at a yard called Ford and More in Spokane. I was already taking the notes out of my wallet, when I noticed that the big end was a hexagon, and the wrenches were for a Chev.

You have noted the mistake in John Reagan's drawings, but then made the...

Where there’s a will, there’s a way! Way to go!

Well I guess if you have enough tube replacements, flats and etc it will pay for itself. Just kidding!
It a wonder that it survived after many years. Doesn’t look like it’s been in a scrap pile and that’s a good thing.

Well, none of the parts are new, but they don’t look bad. If I can get things cleaned up and things fit pretty well, I will go with it. If it’s not good enough, then it’s a bigger job.

I'd like to get my hands on a set of those DF spindles.

Thanks for saving the Coupe body from being a rat rod!! It’s to bad that some T’ and A’s wind up and get ruined to that fate. To each his own what they do with their car.

Plenty of Army Library trucks:

IMG_7067.JPG
Copyright 1918

IMG_7068.JPG
The inside cover

I have the one with Long Beach Model T Club printed on one side, currently laying on the floor of my '26 Touring right now.
It's in the same place it was when I purchased the car.

Mike.

That's GREAT! Family time and hopefully they stay interested and continue with the T as years go by.

Peoples' Premier Xi IS China!

Dave, I have basically everything I need to build three more speedsters. What I need are recommendations for engine builder is Nor Cal.

That's what I thought. Usually by the time I get stuff the numbers are gone.

Here's the video on that particular part:

Fred

let me inject this into your topic: if you have a later engine with a FORD T generator, rather than just hook it to the battery and wait for unanticipated events and troubleshooting to transpire, consider proactively taking the generator to someone with a run-in stand to test for...function (does it even work?) set output to 4A to be kind to...

I'm with you!! I got tired of missing out on club events because of the cars I have/had. I was stuck on open cars and that is all I've had for years. In T's (I've had 6 touring) and a beautiful 12 Hack (a permanent keeper). I also have a 27 Marmon E-75 4 passenger speedster (for sure a keeper). Because all the cars were open and some like the Hack...

I would suggest that if you want to continue to drive on those tires, that you leave them on and keep the pressure to about 60 psi. I had an old one which I kept for the spare and bought new ones made in Viet Nam. The rubber valve stem on my old spare blew up like a balloon, so I replaced the inner tube. It was a very hard job, but with several...

I fill mine with red grease - I put at least a couple thousand miles on a year and if I check it once a year the grease I put in the year before is mostly gone. Not on my pants but maybe down the shaft. My vote...grease it good.

I'd like to know more about that cylinder head.