Bumps or no Bumps Driveshaft Spool for January 1913?

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Topic author
Benji
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First Name: Benjamin
Last Name: Eckstein
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Bumps or no Bumps Driveshaft Spool for January 1913?

Post by Benji » Mon Mar 22, 2021 11:20 am

I can't seem to find any pertinent dates on when the switch from the no bump driveshaft bearing spool to bumped version happens.

I have a January 1913 roadster project.
I have, what tantamount to being, a 1911 to 1912 2 piece driveshaft with the no bump spool. Has the earlier style ball end without the half moon cutouts for the pin caps.

I have the later style 2 piece driveshaft with the half moon cutouts on the ball end, the bumped spool (with raised factory part number).

I just don't know which is correct for a January 1913.

Benji


Original Smith
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Re: Bumps or no Bumps Driveshaft Spool for January 1913?

Post by Original Smith » Mon Mar 22, 2021 11:33 am

No bumps. I would check the judging guidelines for 1913, but I believe it was in transition in 1913. I have two 1913's and neither have bumps, BUT they had both been changed before I bought them, and I put the no bump spools in.


Topic author
Benji
Posts: 370
Joined: Tue Jun 04, 2019 8:37 pm
First Name: Benjamin
Last Name: Eckstein
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 24 Roadster Pickup, 13 Runabout, 13 Touring, 14 Light Delivery, 15 Speedster
Location: Metamora, IN
Board Member Since: 2012

Re: Bumps or no Bumps Driveshaft Spool for January 1913?

Post by Benji » Mon Mar 22, 2021 1:08 pm

The judging guidelines weren't too clear (I think I have the 7th edition). I will double check later. But for 13, they didn't specify, I think.

They use the terms "early" and "late" but I have no idea if they mean calender or model year.

I'm more inclined to use the no bump because of that very transition you speak of.

What about the different ball ends? I have both. Would the half moon cutout for the u joint pin caps covers be correct? Or should I use the earlier that doesn't have them? My earlier has the "PATD" cast on one side, and the factory part number on the other. My tube also has the thicker connection end to the ball that has the spot faced holes for the bolts.

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