Brassworks “extreme” radiator?

[mbowen]

I am considering getting a new radiator from Brassworks for my ‘24 Touring. My main mission is touring, so I was thinking of going with the flat tube style, but I see on Brassworks’ website that they offer an “extreme” model that purports to have a “66% increase in copper” but doesn’t really mention mention any difference in cooling over the regular flat tube style. Does anyone on here have any experience with this “extreme” radiator to know whether it’s worth the extra $100?

Also, they say “The central support bar is removed and replaced with a cradle bracket like the early Fords”. Would this cause any installation issues on a stock ‘24 touring? (I’m not familiar with what either the “central support bar” or “cradle bracket” are.)

https://thebrassworks.net/collections/f ... me-touring

[Scott_Conger]

New radiators from any source have proven over the years that they cool adequately, and will continue to do so for many years. The only real difference is how long they last before they break and how closely (or not) they adhere to original assembly details. With only one source these days, the only real decision is how much money do you wish to spend and for which configuration. They all cool perfectly well.

I personally would not pay an extra $100 for the privilege of owning a radiator which was not constructed or looked like an original. I'd probably be glad to pay less, but not more. FWIW, a radiator with no steel support bar (as advertised) is exactly how BERG's radiators were constructed, and they were considerably cheaper than what is offered now (and they cooled very well but didn't look original). No matter how "extreme" the radiator is, it only needs to keep the engine at a correct temperature. I doubt that you will be able to hear a single story from anyone with a new radiator that was not extremely pleased with its cooling ability, nor any stories from them relaying that their new radiator was not up to the task under any circumstances.

Let us know how you make out when you get it installed (which ever one it is)

As to your question: no it won't have any influence in how it mounts (just make sure your frame is not spread and the mounting holes are 21 1/2" apart).

[Harry Lillo]

Mike,
The radiator on my depot hack has been progressively deteriorating
in its ability to cool under hard driving conditions like long Rocky Mountain hills.
I ordered an extreme service Brassworks radiator last July.
The additional hear exchange surface area on the fins and core
is expected to provide the needed cooling for a slightly warmed up engine.
The radiator is completed but Brassworks is waiting for filler necks to be completed
before they ship to me.
I can't answer your question today from experience but will be able to do so
by July when we put it to work.
Harry Lillo
Calgary

[Mark Gregush]

Then there are those people who get the new radiator, and it cools too well!

[Allan]

I would imagine this is a development designed to get around having to fit the reinforcement bar in a T radiator core. Buy in ready made standard cores and make mountings to suit. I have an aftermarket one just like it. If it is a time/money saving effort, why is it more expensive?

I have always bought Brassworks radiators because they are made and look like originals. With the effective and cheaper Bergs radiators no longer available, it would appear Brassworks are going the Bergs route, but upping the price rather than reducing it. Call me cynical if you like.

Allan from down under.

[JBog]

I bought one of those in September. Hopefully I’ll get mine in another month. Sent them an email to get a status update last week and got no response so far.

[Steve Jelf]

I have always bought Brassworks radiators because they are made and look like originals.

Not quite. When I go to OCF I see dozens and dozens of Model T's. Mine and perhaps one or two others have original radiators. All the others are new. The new radiators appear quite similar, but are different enough to be apparent when you look closely.

[Norman Kling]

Brasswork Radiators are expensive, but are very good radiators. I have two on two of my cars and they work well without any pump or thermostat. Only times I overheated were because of a problem with a bolt too long on one of the heads which blew the gasket a couple times. But now I can climb a 6 percent grade of 5 miles with a signal at the top and a steeper grade to my house without overheating on a hot day. I just hope they didn't get flooded. They are near San Luis Obispo where there have been some floods in the last week.
Norm

[Allan]

Steve, I had in mind black radiators when mentioning differences. Bergs had a one piece, seamless top tank and a really different top outlet. They looked much like a real one until one lifted the hood.
Apart from the folded front lower edge on the front plate, compared with the rolled edge on the originals, Brassworks are presentable, but are often given away because they look new and are dent free. Quality of build is a different matter.

Allan from down under.

[KWTownsend]

I love the Brassworks flat tube radiator on my 1911. It even keeps the car cool in a slow paced parade on a hot day. Although the tubes are flat, it has the appearance of an original. I have a re-cored radiator on my 1919 (45 years ago) and it also keeps the car cool, but was done at a local shop and the although the core has the reinforcement bar, the fin structure is not original in appearance. At the time a new radiator was probably $400 and I probably paid $175 for the re-core.

I'm with Scott. I want my radiator to look correct for a stock looking car. If I had a speedster with all kinds of modifications that needed cooling that is "better" than a flat tube, and did not care about the appearance, I suppose the "extreme" radiator would be a option. Maybe on Poncho Villa's La Cucaracha!

As a side note, I had the opportunity to visit and tour the Brassworks facility last October and see their craftsmen at work.

: ^ )

Keith

[John Codman]

I agree with Scott Conger that Berg's radiators cool very well but don't look original. However absolutely nobody but a Model T expert will know or care anything about the differences. I have owned my '27 since 2014, and not a single person has asked me anything about the (Berg's) radiator.

[Alan Long]

I ordered a 09-10 FT Radiator off Brassworks back in June with an estimated delivery of October. It missed the October shipping container and here we are in January and no updates on delivery. There communication is terrible. Don’t answer the phone or reply to emails. I understand they are busy but surely there must be someone that can Service customers? Regret not ordering it through Lang’s now who would at least respond and may have more clout on Brassworks.? I just hope that the new one is eventually delivered as is good as the 26/27 one and 1910 one previously purchased years ago. Being Flat Tubes overheating isn’t an issue and in fact running too cool is a problem and with NO Water Pump, in Australia!!
Alan In Western Australia

[bobt]

"Good things come to those who wait". It took three months to get my 1915 flat tube touring radiator from Brassworks, but I MUST say it looked like a piece of jewelry when it arrived. The car runs cool even in the hottest of days in Virginia without a pump and the radiator fit like a glove. I don't drive fast and can idle for periods of time. I can ALWAYS hold my hand on the LOWER water pipe return tube. bobt

[TXGOAT2]

Ideally, coolant would enter the water jacket inlet at about 185F and exit the water outlet at about 195 to 200 F.

[BHarper]

I am one of those (few??) people who judge the Flat Tube radiators to cool TOO well. (I will mention, in passing, that as received the radiator filler neck was incorrectly located and prevented installing the radiator shell.)

I needed a new radiator because the old one had transformed into a lawn sprinkler. The popular wisdom from the usual suspects prompted me to buy a Flat Tube radiator from Brassworks. "You won't have any overheating. "

I have a motor meter on my car and with the new radiator the red fluid NEVER appeared in the tube. The engine ran okay, but it never seemed "happy." I began to suspect that the engine was not reaching Normal Operating Temperature. A piece of cardboard placed in front of the lower portion of the radiator did allow the red fluid to show itself near the bottom of the motor meter. Hmm.

I made a few trips with and without the cardboard and used my IR thermometer to check the temperature at different areas of the radiator, the engine, and the hoses and coolant pipe. The poor little engine was just never getting as hot as I felt it should be.

I added a 180 degree (F) thermostat and that helped a great deal. The red fluid would now rise almost to the bottom of the circle at the center of the motor meter. The engine ran better. I was pleased, but wondered if I could get the motor meter to register in the center of the circle. I installed a 193 degree thermostat and that was the cure.

The red fluid would remain in the center of the circle during all driving situations untill the car climbed a steep hill on a hot day. During a steep climb the gauge would rise above the circle to Overheating and remain there untill the car crested the hill. About half way down, or always by the bottom of the hill, the temperature would drop to normal.
This is how I believe the cooling system ought to operate.

If I ever need another new radiator I will select a Round Tube.

Your mileage may vary.

[Allan]

Bill, who would believe the Brassorks radiator had the filler neck in the wrong place? I would, despite their denials.

Allan from down under.