Ruckstell Leak

[JBog]

My ruckstell is leaking fluid from the highlighted area. Do I need to worry and how can I fix it? Thanks!

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[TXGOAT2]

What is the grayish material near the bolt above the filler plug?

[JBog]

What is the grayish material near the bolt above the filler plug?

...I tried to stop the leak by smearing gasket maker on it. It didn't work.

[TXGOAT2]

Have you tried cleaning the area up and then trying to pinpoint the leak source? It can be hard to determine exactly where a leak originates. Does it leak when parked for several days?

[JTT3]

The previous owner may not have placed the gasket between the halves or used rtv when it was worked on last. You’ll need to fix that. Curious have you checked the fluids in the rear axle? Hopefully it will be at the right level however be prepared if it’s overfilled by having a catch pan ready. Oil can leak from the 4th main down the driveshaft tube into the housing if the forth main has a lot of clearance or someone left the plug out of the tail shaft. Good luck.

[JBog]

Have you tried cleaning the area up and then trying to pinpoint the leak source? It can be hard to determine exactly where a leak originates. Does it leak when parked for several days?

It always leaks, its been leaking all winter as it just sits, its a real slow drip, a few drops a day as it sits cold, or maybe a couple of tablespoons or so after a drive. I top it off every few days during the summer.

It seems like its leaking around the bottom two bolts, but they are tight.

[JBog]

The previous owner may not have placed the gasket between the halves or used rtv when it was worked on last. You’ll need to fix that. Curious have you checked the fluids in the rear axle? Hopefully it will be at the right level however be prepared if it’s overfilled by having a catch pan ready. Oil can leak from the 4th main down the driveshaft tube into the housing if the forth main has a lot of clearance or someone left the plug out of the tail shaft. Good luck.

Do I need to take the wheels and everything off to open it enough to put a gasket on?

I check it every few days to top it off during the summer. How do I check the fourth main?

[TXGOAT2]

If it continues to leak when sitting for a period of time, it's probably a gasket issue, as described above. It's possible the plug is leaking, which could be determined by putting teflon tape on the threads after checking for any obvious damage to the threads on the plug or in the axle housing. A crack in the housing is a possibility, but a leak at the gasketed joint or the plug is more likely.

[TXGOAT2]

I'd think you'd need to at least partially disassemble the axle and driveshaft to replace the gaskets, but there may be a workaround.

[JBog]

I'd think you'd need to at least partially disassemble the axle and driveshaft to replace the gaskets, but there may be a workaround.

Bummer.

[TXGOAT2]

If there's an easy and effective fix, someone here will know.

[bobt]

Clean it up real good,scuff the area with 80 grit sand paper, wipe it with paint thinner and then use JB Weld "QUICK SET". Paint the repair with flat black spray paint so nobody can see the repair and DRIVE IT! Don't forget to set your clocks forward tonight- DST. bobt

[Norman Kling]

Seal it the best you can. Remove the plug and if oil comes out, it is over filled. Sometimes happens when engine oil leaks through the universal joint and runs down the shaft. If too full, drain out to the level of the bottom of the plug. Then park with a drip pan under it and when you oil and lube the car check the oil level in the rear axle. It might run for a long time just as is. If you need to repair something inside in the future, that is the time to replace the gasket and seal up good.
Norm

[TXGOAT2]

I'd take Norm's advice. Going over all the bolts on the axle housing and snugging them up evenly might help. Don't overtighten them. The Ruxtel requires a different type of lubricant than the regular Ford axle.

[speedytinc]

This leak is common from someone lifting the rear end with a single jack under the pumpkin.

There are many ways to attack this leak. go from easy to disassembly.

First I would clean the leak area with brake cleaner to find the exact source & extent.
There might be a pinpoint casting flaw.

Next I might put a vacuum source, pull off the shift lock for a shopvac hose & seal with stuffed rags.
Spray brake cleaner on the leak area you pinpointed. The vacuum will suck in the cleaner. Press in black ultra silicone. The vacuum will suck some into the void. Shut off the vacuum & let dry overnight. If leak continues, repeat. Careful not to fill the dif with silicone snakes.

Last resort: lift the rear frame onto jack stands. slide out the right side housing. You will have to remove the wheel & possibly the brake rod, spring perch nut. The spring, shackle & perch stay together. You only need to separate enough to clean. (2") No need to completely remove.
remove the 3 DS spool bolts(RT side) & the differential bolts. You can pull all the spool bolts, but not necessary.
The hard part is to get the area grease free to not interfere with the new sealing. Let it drain a couple days before a manual cleaning. Gotta be clean enough to eat off.
Smear both sides with black ultra. If there was a gasket replace it, as it is part of the correct internal clearance.
Point being, you dont have to pull the whole rear end out.

[Bill Robinson]

Over the years, I have read and been told by those who know, that the only time a gasket is needed between the 2 axle halves, is when you need to add a little space between the ring gear and pinion.
If the axle running smoothly with a no gasket, seal it with Permatex 81182 Gasket Maker - it seals real good and is resistant to gear oil, which other RTV's are not.
If you must add a gasket to add a small amount of gap, use 81182 like you would any other Sealer.
For positive results, allow the Gasket Maker to set-up as directed.

[jiminbartow]

Is it possible to remove the rear wheels then remove all the pumpkin bolts and separate the halves about an inch, enough to clean the halves real good with mineral spirits, let dry, then apply a bead of “the Right Stuff” to one side and carefully embed the gasket in it making sure the gasket holes are positioned properly, then gently apply a bead to the other half, then carefully join the two halves together, taking care not to disturb or damage the gasket, then bolt together and tighten. Jim Patrick

[Bill Robinson]

In my opinion - yes. Others may feel differently. I have done it to 5 of my current T’s and none leak at the seam. Only an occasional drip may drop from the plug. But not enough to worry about. I don’t apply a bead. Enough on my fingertip to fill the groove.

[JBog]

Sounds easy enough. Ill give it a try when the weather warms up. Wyoming is still cold.